Garden Sage

Garden sage (Salvia officinalis) is a favorite for flavoring meats and stuffing, but it’s also a super star herb for wellness. Clinical trials show sage leaves make an effective tea for easing the pain of sore throats.  Mix in a little thyme and lemon juice for even more goodness. Not a fan of sage’s strong flavor?  You can gargle an infusion of sage instead of drinking it. ​Sage is a very hardy perennial, and you can harvest bits all winter long, but if you live in an area with very harsh winters, you may want to cover it or grow it indoors during intense weather.​

Parsley

It’s not uncommon to overindulge around the holidays and experience digestive upset.  Parsley isn’t just decoration on a plate; it’s a great herbal remedy for bloating and indigestion.  Chew a few leaves before a rich meal to keep upset tummies at bay.  Parsley is a biennial plant, so it flowers in its second year.  Parsley is hardy in USDA growing zones 6 and above, but if protected in colder climates, it can be harvested year-round. The leaves, roots, and seeds can be used for herbal purposes. ​

Horseradish

Horseradish is an easy plant to grow. The best way is to get a root division from your garden center, a friend, or a grocery store-bought root. Plant the root in the spring to be ready to harvest in the fall or winter as needed. Horseradish roots can be stored in the fridge for a couple of months, too. For sinus congestion, nothing compares to a hit of horseradish to help clear passages. You can make a prepared horseradish sauce or chop up a small piece and eat it plain if you’re brave.  Fire cider recipes are very popular in traditional herbalism, and many feature horseradish for its immune-supporting properties.

Rosemary​

Rosemary is an evergreen herb. It comes in all sizes, so there’s sure to be one that suits your garden.  Rosemary is a tough plant, but if you’re expecting a particularly rough stretch of weather, like an ice storm, you can cover up your plant. Rosemary thrives in well-draining soil.  Throughout history, rosemary has been used as a circulatory stimulant, so a cup of rosemary infusion  could be helpful when you feel you need to warm up.  It’s full of antioxidants and may help support the immune system.  When you’re feeling under the weather, try adding a few sprigs of fresh or dried rosemary to your chicken soup.  ​

Rose

​Did you know that roses have many herbal uses?  The petals are commonly used in skin care preparations worldwide.  Roses offer a unique floral flavor to herbal teas.  But what can roses offer us in the winter?  The seed head that forms after a flower has bloomed is called a rosehip.  They are full of vitamin C.  During World War II, the British made a syrup from rosehips to combat scurvy because citrus was nearly impossible to obtain.  Rosehip jelly is a popular condiment in many countries. Rosehips can be dried and added to teas. For herbal use, the best varieties to use are the wild rose species like Rosa rugosa and Rosa canina. When making teas or jellies with rosehips be sure to use cheesecloth to strain out the little “hairs” that surround the seeds. They can be very irritating to your throat!

Thyme

If you could only choose one herb to grow for a winter-wellness garden, my pick would be thyme. It’s such a versatile herb!  Thyme has well-known anti-septic and anti-viral properties. Thyme tea has been used for cold symptoms, sore throats, fungal issues, digestive complaints, and to aid in fever reduction. It’s surprising what this little plant can do!   Brew a cup of thyme tea by adding 1 tsp of fresh or dried thyme to 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit for a few minutes and then strain.  Add lemon juice or honey for flavor. There are some really fun varieties of thyme with interesting flavors like orange thyme and lemon thyme. Thyme can be grown in a pot.​

Echinacea

Echinacea has been used for centuries for many conditions, including the common cold.  Studies have been done to see how the immune system reacts to echinacea, and there are conflicting reports. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that herbs shouldn’t be thought of as a cure-all, and we should remember that lifestyle affects our health more than any herb can. Our sleep, stress, and emotional management are also important. That said, the German Commission E is considered an expert panel on the use of plants for health, and echinacea is approved by them for the treatment of upper respiratory infections. The seeds, flowers, and roots are used in herbal preparations, with the most common varieties being E. purpurea and E. angustifolia. Try echinacea tea the next time you feel a tickle in your throat. Prepare a tincture from the roots in the fall for winter use. ​

Planning a winter-wellness garden is one way to keep the gardening fun going all year, and it could be helpful one day!  For tips on growing herbs in the winter, check out this growing guide. You can start planning your garden today withe the Planter App. Always consult with your health care professional before using herbs.

When to Harvest Roots

The best time to harvest roots is in the fall when your plant has stopped producing flowers and leaves and has started dying back.  All of the plant’s energy is being sent down to the roots to store up before the following spring, and this is when roots are at their best for herbal use. Dandelion roots, for example, have the highest amounts of inulin, a type of prebiotic dietary fiber,  in the fall.  If you can harvest your roots before the first significant frosts, the better. In the northern hemisphere, late September through early November are good times to get digging.  It’s also a good idea to harvest when you have the time to clean and process the roots, because roots start to get tough when they dry out. 

With certain plants, it’s best to wait to harvest the roots until their second or third year of growth. Some of these herbs are: elecampane, marshmallow root, and parsley.  But you also don’t want to wait too long: some roots can grow quite large and get tough and “woody”, making them hard to chop. Tough, old, woody roots are also less desirable because they may lack potency. Try to harvest roots before they get to their  4th growing season. If you let them go too long, divide them in half at the roots and replant, this can reinvigorate them.

Harvesting

The number one rule when harvesting a plant is to ensure you know what you are harvesting. Never harvest a plant if you aren’t entirely sure about its identity. If you planted it in your garden, then you most likely know what you have. Be cautious when wildcrafting. It’s safe to say most people know what a dandelion looks like. Still, there are “false dandelions,” so studying plant identification books is wise. 

After you’ve decided on the perfect day to harvest, grab a shovel or a garden fork and carefully dig around the plant, keeping in mind where the roots might be so as not to cut them (some roots grow outwards, so try not to chop them up), going around in a circle gently lifting the plant a little each time you move. Go around the plant until you can lift the root crown.  Some roots can be hard to dig up, and a special tool called a Hori Hori knife can be very handy. Make sure you don’t have roots from other plants intertwined into what you want to harvest.

Decide if you are going to harvest all of the roots or just some. If you want to replant, harvest ½ - ¾ of the root system and then replant at the depth you removed it from, removing any old stems or leaves so it can focus on rebuilding at the roots. 

Cleaning

If you harvest roots full of mud, spraying them off with a garden hose before bringing them inside can be helpful. Clean roots gently with water and a vegetable brush, but do not scrub too hard. 

Chopping

Chop the roots into pieces. It’s best to chop roots right away after harvest because some roots start to get tough, making them harder to cut. If you plan on using fresh roots for herbal products, then you should use them straight away. It’s best to use fresh roots when making some tinctures. Valerian roots, for example, are preferred by some herbalists to be tinctured fresh. 

Drying

If you plan on drying your roots, you need to do so after chopping them. Chopping them before drying ensures they will dry evenly. You can dry your herbs in a dehydrator, oven, or other method like in a paper bag. With roots, I always prefer to use a dehydrator so I know they are properly dried for storage. It can take a long time to thoroughly dry roots without a dehydrator.

Storing

After the roots have been thoroughly dried, store them in a glass container with a lid, like a mason jar or an airtight seal. Store them somewhere at room temperature and out of direct light. A dark pantry works well. Roots can be stored for 2-3 years. Some can be potent longer than that, but that is just a general rule. 

What to Make With Herbal Roots

With herbal roots, you can make: 

• Tinctures
• Infused oils
• Tea
• Vinegars
• Infused honey
• Syrups
• Condiments 
• Herbal “candy”

Ideas to Try

• Are you trying to give up caffeine and coffee but still want a hot drink with a rich flavor? Try making a tea out of dried dandelion roots. It won’t give you that caffeine rush but it is filled with prebiotic fiber your gut’s microbiome loves!
• To make infused honey, warm up some honey in a pot (do not overheat and burn the honey) or place a towel in a slow cooker and place a jar of honey on top of the towel. Add some dried herbs to the honey and let the mix infuse for several hours. Make sure not to leave unattended.  Strain the honey into a jar. Infused honeys are good for toast, mixed into teas, or eaten straight! Some of the most interesting roots to use for honey are elecampane, angelica, and ginger root (technically speaking, we use ginger rhizome, but we call it root). Heating up the honey does mean you risk losing some beneficial properties from the honey, so you can simply add dried herbs to a jar of honey and let it infuse for a couple of weeks. There are also ways to infuse honey with fresh herbs but you must make sure the water evaporates, otherwise you risk fermentation. You can find instructions on how to make infused honey with fresh herbs, on the internet. 
• Long ago, it’s said that the first marshmallows were created from the marshmallow plant’s roots. You can make an herbal syrup with the roots, which can then be made into the sweet treat we know today. There are vegan recipes and some made with gelatin. Search around for your favorite recipe. 
• Use horseradish root to make your own classic condiment or as an addition to an herbal fire cider recipe.

Sometimes, at the end of a long growing season, the last thing I want to do is get dirty and harvest the roots of my herbs, especially when it’s getting colder. But every time I do, I’m so happy I did it. Harvesting roots isn’t always glamorous work, but it’s definitely rewarding.  Always consult with your healthcare professional before using herbs.

Harvest Time Table

Ashwagandha -In its first fall before frost.

Dandelion- The fall of its first year. 

Echinacea- The fall of its third year.

Elecampane- The fall of its second year.

Horseradish- The fall of its first year, ideally after the first frost.

Marshmallow- The fall of its second or third year.

Valerian- The fall of its second year.

Different Methods

There are different ways to make an herbal-infused oil. The easiest way is known as the folk method. Herbs are placed in a jar, covered with your choice of oil, and left to sit for a few weeks.  Dried herbs are usually preferred over fresh because your oil is more likely to grow mold when you use fresh plant material. That said, if you take specific measures, you can make an oil with fresh plants.  Sometimes, fresh plants are preferred for certain infusions, like when making St. John’s Wort oil. 

Use the warm method if you don’t have a few weeks to wait for an infusion.  Dried herbs are still placed in a jar and covered with oil, but they are heated at low temperatures for a few hours up to a few days.  The most common way to do this is in a crockpot on low (in a water bath or lay a towel underneath the jars). This is faster than the folk method, but you must stir the mixture regularly and ensure it isn’t getting too hot. It’s also a good idea not to leave the crockpot completely unattended. 

Which Oil to Choose

What you want to do with your oil can help you decide which oil to choose. Olive oil is a popular choice for herbal infusions because it does not go rancid as quickly as other oils. It’s also fairly neutral in smell. Olive oil is a good choice for most skin types, and it is not known to clog the skin, but it can feel too heavy for some.  Olive oil is a good choice for salve-making.  Avocado oil is also good for salves, and since it’s “heavy,” it’s a good choice for soap making. 

Some oils that feel light on the skin are argan, apricot, and meadowfoam. 

Whatever you choose, it’s always best to use an oil that is “cold-pressed” or “expeller-pressed.” This means that no weird chemicals or damaging heat were used to make the oil.  Cold-pressed oils have the best shelf life.

Herbs

Several herbs can benefit the skin:

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)-This superstar herb soothes skin, promotes wound healing, and is gentle enough for the whole family.

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)-used for stubborn wounds that need a little extra care. (do not use comfrey over deep wounds due to concerns about pyrrolizidine alkaloids).

Lavender -has anti-inflammatory properties and makes a great base for homemade whipped body butter.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) -is known to have anti-fungal and antiseptic properties. 

A note of caution: while using herbally infused oils is generally very safe, everyone reacts differently to plants.  A patch test can be helpful to determine if you will tolerate a new herb. Rub a dot of herbal oil on your inner wrist and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation appears. If you are allergic to certain plants, always know what family an herb belongs to before using it.  

The Folk Method Way to Infuse Oil

Supplies needed:

A clean jar with a lid

Enough dried herbs to fill your jar halfway

A small piece of wax paper (if you’re using a metal canning lid for your jar)

Oil

Supplies for when it’s time to strain:

Coffee filter or cheesecloth/muslin 

Funnel 

A clean jar

Amber bottle 

Infuse the Oil

1. Grind your dried herbs using a mortar and pestle, crumble them by hand, or chop them up. This ensures a good extraction of the herb constituents or healing properties.
2. Fill a jar halfway with the dried herbs.
3. Cover the herbs oil, but leave ½-1 inch of space at the top. You do not want to overfill the jar. The herbs are going to soak up the oil and expand.  If your jar is too full, you might experience an oil leak.  If your jar isn’t full enough, you could expose your mixture to too much air, leading to a shorter shelf life. 
4. Label your jar with the type of herb(s) and oil used. Put the date on your label to track how long it has been infusing.  Masking tape is a good label because it comes off easily. 
5. Place the jar in an area that is reasonably warm and dark. Some herbalists prefer to infuse their oils in the sun, and in some cases, such as when making a St. John’s Wort-infused oil, this is the traditional way. I always infuse St. John’s Wort oil in the sun (and with freshly wilted flowers), but I keep all other infusions in the dark. It helps protect your oil from any deterioration from the sun. 
6. Let the oil infuse for 4-6 weeks. Remember to check on it and give it a gentle shake or roll every day or so. Resist the urge to open the jar to see what’s happening. You want to avoid exposure to the air as much as possible. 

Time to Strain

1. After 4-6 weeks, it’s time to strain. If you go over 6 weeks, it’s not a big deal; nothing bad will happen. Infused oil has a shelf life, so it’s best to get it to use. 
2. To filter your oil, you will need a clean jar, a funnel, cheesecloth, or a coffee filter. A regular mesh strainer will generally not filter out all the tiny bits of herbs very well. 
3. Place the funnel into the jar and line it with the cheesecloth or coffee filter.  Carefully pour your mixture over the filter.  It takes a while for the oil to filter, especially if you use a coffee filter.
4. After a while, you can use a clean spoon to press down on the herbs to help extract the oils they have soaked up. Or, with clean hands, you can very carefully squeeze the filter or cheesecloth to get every last drop you can. You can compost the herbs afterwards.
5. Sometimes, even after good filtering, you can be left with cloudy debris of herbal sediment. Let your oil settle to the bottom, and slowly pour it into another jar, trying to avoid the sediment. Or you can filter that oil one more time. 
6. A couple of drops of Vitamin E can be added to help maintain the oil’s freshness. It does not kill germs, but it helps fight oxidation.
7. Your oil is now ready for bottling or being used in making salves or other herbal products.  
8. Bottle the oil in dark-colored bottles or jars. This helps protect the oil from light and air. Use bottles with small necks. Store the oil in a cool, dark location. Always use clean hands when dispensing oil. Properly stored herbal oils, on average, last around a year. 
9. Label the bottle with the type of oil used, the herb(s) used, and the date it was made. 

Herbal oils are perfect for gift making.

Look out for a video on how to make an herbal infusion, on our YouTube channel.

Paper Bag Method

The paper bag method is nice because it doesn’t require anything fancy.  Place your herbs in a clean paper bag, ensuring not to fill it too much because good air circulation is critical for successful drying. Leave the bag somewhere with good airflow, that is above 65 degrees F. This method doesn’t work very well if you put the bags in a cool and damp place. If you can hang the bag up on a hook, that helps with proper airflow; if not, you can use a fan in the area.  If you live somewhere very humid, you might want to add a dehumidifier to the room. Some good herbs to try this method are chamomile, rose petals, sage, thyme, yarrow, etc.  If you are trying this with roots, you must have the roots cut up into small chunks and you must keep the room warm and with low humidity. For roots, I strongly recommend investing in a dehydrator.  Each paper bag should only have one kind of plant, and it’s a good idea to write the plant’s name on the outside of the bag.

Hang Drying

You can dry bunches of herbs with long stems by tying their stems with twine or using rubber bands and hanging them upside down on a hook or a hanging drying rack. Clothes drying racks can be put to use for drying herbs. Keep them somewhere well-ventilated, out of direct sunlight, and away from steam, condensation, or moisture sources in the air. This is the preferred way to dry lavender, especially if you want to keep dried bunches for decor. 

Drying Racks

Herbs can be laid on top of mesh drying racks, allowing air to circulate all around. Keep racks out of direct light and in a well-ventilated area. Stir the herbs around every few days. You can find racks in stores, online, or even make your own out of an old window screen. 

Dehydrator

If you plan on drying a lot of herbs or want a fast(ish) way to dry herbs, then you might want to use a dehydrator. Using a dehydrator is the most reliable way to dry roots.  Dehydrators come in many styles and budgets. When using a dehydrator, you don’t want the temperature to go above 100 degrees F, as this can compromise the quality of the herbs.  A suitable average temperature for herb drying is 85-90.  While herbs are drying, it can be helpful to stir them occasionally.  Drying times can vary depending on how much you are processing. A dehydrator assures you that those tougher-to-dry herbs, like calendula, with their resin-rich centers, won’t mold during storage. It’s worth mentioning dehydrators can give off a lot of heat, which can be unwelcome if it’s already hot in the area you are dehydrating.

Ready for Storage

Herbs can be stored when they crumble easily, or their stems can be snapped in half cleanly. If they are bendy or soft at all, they are not ready. If there is even just a little moisture left, herbs can mold. If you dry your herbs on stems, you can remove them from the stem. Stems don’t hold much goodness in a plant. Cut roots in half to check if they are thoroughly dried.  Dried herbs are freshest if you keep them in their whole form. They tend to lose potency faster if you crush or powder them before you are ready to use them. The best containers to store herbs in are air-tight glass ones.  You can use plain old Mason jars.  Try to keep your jars in a dark area and out of light. Light can degrade the quality of herbs. Always label your jars with the plants’ names, and you can add the date that you jarred them up. If you keep your herbs in a cool and dark place, dried flowers and leaves can stay potent for a year or more. Roots can stay vibrant even longer.  If your stored herbs have lost their smell and look less than vital, it’s time to compost them.

Some herbs can be frozen for use in the kitchen. Sage, lemon balm, rosemary, and bay leaves can be frozen in plastic bags or ice cube trays.  

Moldy Herbs

If herbs aren’t thoroughly dried before they are stored, mold can grow. If you find mold on any of your stored herbs, it’s best to compost that batch.  It can be disheartening to throw away a whole jar of herbs, but mold spores are present, and it’s not worth risking your health. 

Having your own stash of dried herbs is an amazing way to connect with your garden, even when the first days of winter arrive. Give it a try this season! Check the Planter app for more information on harvesting herbs.

Harvest Timelines

• Harvest aromatic herbs like basil, lemon balm, sage, and oregano just as the flowers are beginning to open. This is when the volatile oil levels are strongest, giving you a more flavorful or potent herb. You can use sharp scissors to remove leaves individually or snip stems with the leaves attached.
• Flowers and the tops of flowering herbs like yarrow, chamomile, and roses are best picked right as they are starting to bloom or not too long afterwards.
• Dill and fennel seeds can be collected right before they begin to dry, so they are still highly aromatic. You can cut the flower head off and hang it upside down to dry, then put a paper bag around the flower head to collect the dropping seeds.
• Herb roots and rhizomes are usually harvested in the fall when the plant is dying back and sending all of its constituents to be stored in the root for winter.  Check back this fall for the steps on how to harvest and dry roots.

To Wash, or Not to Wash?

If you are planning on using culinary herbs fresh in your cooking, then you can rinse them off with some water just as you would vegetables. You can rinse your herbs prior to drying them too. Lay them out to dry after rinsing before you move on to the drying process. Not everyone does this because it may increase the chances of the herbs holding onto moisture and molding in storage. You can also spray your herbs with a garden hose a day before you harvest them; that way, they’ll have time to dry off before harvesting. Washing herbs before harvest may increase the time it takes to dry them. If you don’t spray your herbs with chemicals, you keep your pets out of your garden, and you don’t see dirt on them, you don’t necessarily have to wash herbs, especially if you’re concerned about increasing chances of molding. Either way, after harvesting, you should look through the herbs and remove any damaged or diseased-looking plant parts.

More Tips

• It’s best to harvest on a dry day, just after dew has evaporated, and before any extreme heat.
• Be mindful not to take too many leaves or flowers from one plant at a time, as this can stress the plant and sometimes lead to its demise. 
• Only harvest your herbs when you have time to start the drying process.  Plants start breaking down pretty quickly, so you want to process them as fast as possible. An exception is for herbs like chamomile and calendula that have these teeny tiny bugs crawling all over them. I like to let those bugs have a chance to move out before I dry, so I let them hang out in the shade for a while. I don’t really want a bunch of bugs in my dried herbs!
• Use a large bag or loose-weaved basket to avoid crushing your herbs while harvesting. 
• Only harvest what you think you will use. This can be tricky to determine sometimes, especially during your first year harvesting a plant.
• If you plan on saving seeds for next year, remember that before you harvest too much of a plant.

Harvesting your own herbs is so rewarding! When you’re ready to learn the best practices for drying herbs, make sure to read this next post in the herbs series!

Supplies needed:

• One healthy basil plant (preferably one that has not flowered yet)
• Scissors or trimmers
• A jar or propagating vessel
• Water

How to Take Basil Cuttings

1. Choose a stem that is 2-4 inches tall.
2. Trim just below the leaf nodes.
3. Strip the lower leaves off of the stem, about two inches up. Make sure to leave at least two leaves up top attached to the stem. 
4. Place your cuttings into clean water.  Basil doesn’t need to be dipped into rooting hormone to develop roots, especially if you do this in the spring and summer months when there is a lot of natural light.  
5. Place your cuttings in an area with a lot of natural light, like a window sill.
6. Change the water every couple of days.

Wait for Roots to Develop

Roots should start appearing in about 2-3 weeks. After you have roots around 1-2 inches long, they can be potted up or moved directly into the garden. If you pot them, use a good soil mixture; basil likes moist soil. In summer, you can plant the cuttings directly into the ground or garden bed. Basil likes heat so if it’s still getting cold at night, it’s best to keep it in a pot until it warms up.

Repeat

Once your transplanted cuttings get established, you can take cuttings from those plants and keep the process going as long as you want. Once frost returns, it’s time to move the basil back inside, of course.

This video shows the process:

It really is that easy to keep the basil-goodness going all summer and beyond. It’s like getting plants for free! A few more herbs you can propagate in water are: rosemary, sage, and oregano.

If you’re looking for more budget-friendly garden tips for this season, check out this post: 

Harnessing Local Resources for Your Garden

Benefits of Growing Herbs in Containers:

• You don’t need a ton of gardening space.  You can grow herbs right on your patio.  You can grow herbs indoors, too, but they will thrive outside with fresh air and natural light. 
• You can easily control the growing conditions, like soil type and light requirements.
• For those with mobility challenges, container gardening can make accessibility easier.
• If you ever decide to move to a new location, your plants are ready for the move, too!
• Having your culinary herbs close by means you will use them more—no trudging to the garden in the summer heat for a sprig of rosemary.
• It makes your porch or patio look amazing.

Things to Consider: 

• When growing in containers, it’s good to remember that most plants need good drainage to thrive. Of course, some plants love moisture and can handle “wet feet,” but plants generally like drainage. So many times, I’ve gotten excited about a beautiful pot only to see it didn’t have a drainage hole at the bottom. In those cases, sometimes you can drill a drainage hole in the bottom. It’s also a good idea to elevate pots to keep them off the ground so they can drain properly.
• Before filling your pot, covering the drainage hole is helpful so the soil doesn’t spill out of the bottom. You can use landscaping fabric, pieces of mesh bird netting, a stack of coffee filters, or “crocks,” which are broken pieces of terra cotta pots. 
• When the weather is hot, you must monitor your container-grown plants to ensure they don’t dry out too much.
• If you plan on growing shrubs or small trees in pots, make sure you use a container that can handle some wind and not tip over easily. 
• Don’t plant your herbs in any pot that has the potential to leach toxins into the soil. For example, some pressure-treated woods may have chemicals that can be taken up by plants. Plastic is generally recognized as safe, although some people choose to stay away from it. 
• Strawberry pots are suitable for herbs that don’t mind too much confinement, like mint or basil. Trailing herbs like nasturtium also do well in strawberry pots. 

Basil

Basil does very well in pots and is easy to grow inside on a sunny window sill. Outside, basil does well in a location with full sun. Basil is a staple in Italian cuisine and a beloved medicinal herb in the Ayurvedic tradition. Holy basil, also known as Tulsi, makes a wonderful tea for the nervous system. The most frost-hardy variety of Tulsi is reported to be Ocimum africanum. Give your basil well-draining soil and keep it moist. Harvest all varieties of basil before the flowers bloom to keep the plant leafy and bushy. 

Catnip

Many cat owners grow catnip strictly for entertainment purposes.  A lot of cats get loopy after some whiffs of this mint family member. According to PetMd, when cats sniff catnip, they inhale a substance called nepetalactone, which triggers a release of natural opioids. But catnip isn’t just for cats; it’s also a great herbal companion for humans without the opioid interaction. It’s a gentle herb used to soothe digestion, calm fevers, and ease congestion. Catnip can be a vigorous spreader, but you can stop this by growing it in pots. Catnip prefers full sun and well-draining soil; do not overwater it. If you have cats (if you don’t, you’ll probably attract some neighborhood cats), you might need to protect the plant from being munched down to stubs and knocked over. Don’t overlook your dog, too.  My dog is famous for taking down a plant in one bite (it’s not recommended to allow this happen though)! You can put a little cage over catnip if it’s getting too much attention. Sometimes a cage isn’t enough though. If anyone has a pet-proofing plan for catnip, please let the Planter team know below!

Chamomile (German)

If you want to add chamomile to your garden but don’t want a lot of chamomile babies popping up next year, try growing it in a container. A 12-inch pot is a good size for one plant.  German chamomile isn’t very picky about soil or light, and it can take some shade, but I believe it blooms better in a sunny location.  You don’t need to worry about fertilizing chamomile either. No wonder this fuss-free flower has a reputation for relaxation. 

Chives

Chives are a familiar favorite in the kitchen garden. They can have a warming effect on digestion, so they are a great food herb to add to dishes. The beautiful blossoms can be picked and infused in vinegar for a yummy salad dressing or marinade. Chives love rich, moist soil. Make sure to add some all-purpose fertilizer to your container before planting.

Ginger

Ginger is a fun herb to grow at home. Try starting ginger from roots you get at the grocery store. Ginger grows outward. You can use a shallow pot, but it needs to be wide. The absolute must for container-grown ginger is good drainage! Ginger is very susceptible to rotting if there isn’t sufficient drainage. Ginger loves consistently moist and fertile soil, so keep an eye on this plant all summer. Keep it out of direct sunlight too.

Lavender

Lavender is a Mediterranean native, so it loves free-draining, gravelly, sandy soil, meaning it can thrive in a container.  Their root system can be pretty big, so choose a pot that will be large enough as it grows.  Mix equal parts of regular potting soil and perlite to ensure good drainage.  To avoid root rot, elevate your pot with an elevator on wheels or the “pot feet” that lift the pot off of the ground. Lavender needs full sun, so give it a spot with prime sun access. There are so many varieties and sizes of lavender.  The “dwarf” varieties are compact and perfect for a small patio garden. 

Licorice

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) has a distinct flavor that not everyone enjoys, but humans have used licorice for a long time. Originally used for brewing beer and for use in medieval apothecaries, licorice root began to flavor sweets in Yorkshire, England, hundreds of years ago, and it is still used in some brands of black licorice candy. Many teas contain licorice root because it has so many uses in herbal remedies. Licorice is a very slow-growing plant, and it can take a long time until you get enough roots to make it worthwhile to dry and use, but it’s still fun to grow some in a pot.  Licorice seems to prefer a pot that allows ample room to grow.  It likes full sun and very well-draining soil conditions(keep it watered but don’t overdo it).  Move your pot to a sheltered place if it’s very wet during your winters.  Licorice is slow to return in the spring and sometimes looks dead before it gets buds in later spring (at least, this has been my experience). Harvest licorice root in its third year. You can propagate it by root division in the spring.

Spilanthes

Buzz buttons. Electric daisies. Toothache plant. Eyeball plant. Spilanthes (Acmella oleracea) has many unique names and is a fun herb to grow! One tiny taste of this unusual flower will tingle up your tongue and mouth. It’s hard to fully describe the feeling, but one try, and you’ll understand why “buzz” buttons and “electric” daisies are nicknames.  Toothache plant isn’t a substitute for a trip to the dentist, but a swish of the tinctured plant can offer some relief for toothaches, due to the numbing sensation it gives. If you can’t find spilanthes in your area, it is pretty easy to grow from seed and it can thrive in containers. Grow it in full sun and very rich soil, and ensure it gets watered regularly. 

Thyme

Another Mediterranean native, thyme, does exceptionally well in pots!  There are so many varieties and flavors to choose from, such as orange thyme, lemon thyme, French thyme, oregano thyme, and more.  Whatever variety you decide on, make sure to give it good drainage and not-so-fertile gravelly soil. Thyme likes full sun.

Willow

Sometimes called nature’s aspirin because of its high salicin content, willow bark has a long history of use in folk medicine. Willow trees can grow very big and very quickly. They love to grow along streams and wet places.  There is a dwarf variety that doesn’t mind growing in pots (as long as you upsize the pot as needed), which is the purple willow.  You can grow this willow in regular potting soil.  Purple willow can handle part shade or full sun, just keep its roots as cool and moist as possible. I have been growing purple willow in a pot for a few years, and my pot does not have a drainage hole. Even when the container gets full of rainwater, the shrub does not seem to mind. The inner bark of willow is usually harvested in the spring and then dried. Use pruned willow branches for basket weaving or making plant trellises. Propagating willow is easy, and if you put a clipping directly in the ground and keep it watered, it should root! Willow is good for making living fences by propagation.

Experiment with Other Herbs

Many other herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lemongrass, aloe, green tea, and violets, also do well in pots. If you don’t have space for a garden bed, but there’s an herb you want to grow, there’s no harm in testing it out to see if it can thrive in a pot. Taking chances and experimenting is what gardening is all about!

Calendula

Calendula can be very soothing to red, irritated, and puffy eyes. To make a strong infusion for an eyewash, make sure your hands are clean (since you’ll be touching near your eyes) before you:

Add 1 tablespoon of dried calendula to a jar.

Pour ½ cup of boiled water over the flowers and cover them with a jar lid or a plate.

After 15 minutes, strain the infusion using a coffee filter.

Soak a clean cloth into the infusion and cover your eyes. It’s okay if some of the tea gets into your eyes.

If you have allergies to plants in the Asteraceae (used to be Compositae) family, also called the marigold/ragweed/daisy family, you may want to avoid calendula. We’re trying to make your symptoms better, not worse!

Chamomile

Allergies can wreak havoc on you during the day and sometimes at night! Trying to sleep with a stuffy nose is almost impossible. Chamomile has anti-inflammatory and sleep-enhancing properties, so it could help promote a good night’s sleep. Try a cup of chamomile tea before bed or an herbal steam to help with congestion. How to make an herbal steam:

Put 1 tablespoon or more of dried herbs into a bowl.

Cover the herbs with some boiled water.

Drape a towel over your head to create a little “tent” while you hover over the bowl, being careful not to get too close to the steam. Take some deep breaths for a few minutes.

Chamomile is also in the Asteraceae family (marigold/daisy/ragweed), so use it with caution if you have allergies to plants in this family.

Elderberry

Elderberry is a popular herb to use during cold and flu season, but it may also have benefits during allergy season. There aren’t a lot of studies on elderberries’ effect on the symptoms of allergies, but one from 2013 suggests it can be helpful when dealing with allergies. Scientists say they need to do more research (as is the case with many herbs), but many people have anecdotal evidence elderberry has helped calm their symptoms. We do know that elderberries have a bioflavonoid called quercetin. Researchers think quercetin can help with symptoms like watery eyes and runny nose. Elderberry syrup is delicious and full of antioxidants, so it’s an herb worth considering!

Elderberries contain cyanogenic glycosides. Cooking or drying neutralizes these glycosides. Only use ripe berries from the blue and black varieties, do not use red elderberries. Remove any stems from the berries as well.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod, Solidago spp., sometimes gets a bad rap as an allergy-causing weed. Of course, you can be allergic to anything, but it often gets mistaken for a look-alike plant: ragweed. Ragweed pollen flies through the air like it’s on a mission to cause misery. Goldenrod pollen is too heavy to fly around and cause mayhem. It might become your best friend if you get excess mucus production during a pollen attack. Goldenrod is known as a remedy against congestion in the sinuses. It’s also known to be a “drying” herb, so if you tend to feel dry, like dry skin, eyes, or mouth, try goldenrod on a short-term “as needed” basis.

Goldenrod is another herb in the Asteraceae family.

If you are foraging your own goldenrod make absolutely sure you have the right plant. You don’t want to mix it up with another poisonous look-a-like such as tansy.

Horseradish

Lovers of horseradish sauce are probably familiar with horseradish’s ability to clear the sinuses. Horseradish for sinuses goes back to the days of folk medicine. Don’t overlook horseradish for your home garden if you have sinus problems; it could be worth growing. Because it can spread quickly, consider growing it in containers. Next time allergies cause a sinus situation, try whipping up a batch of sauerkraut with horseradish, or if you’re brave, hold some grated horseradish in your mouth for about 30 seconds.

Nettles

You may have had a close encounter with stinging nettles (Urtica dioica) and have no plans to get involved with this plant again. If you have allergies, you should reconsider. It’s true that nettles can leave you with a painful sting if you come into contact with hairs, but once nettle leaves are wilted, dried, or cooked, they can’t sting you anymore! Nettles are full of vitamins, minerals, and anti-inflammatory substances. Current research shows its anti-inflammatory effects may be helpful for nasal congestion and sneezing, and it may have antihistamine properties. Most herbalists suggest working with nettle weeks before your typical symptoms start to get the full benefits. Nettles are another drying herb, so be aware of how you feel if you take them as a tonic.

Urtica dioica may lower blood sugar and blood pressure, so it is recommended that you avoid it if you take certain medications.

Sage

A sage gargle might be helpful if you get an irritated and scratchy throat from allergies.

Put 1 teaspoon of dried sage (Salvia officinalis) in a jar and add 1 cup of boiled water.

Cover the jar and steep for 10-15 minutes. Strain and gargle with the tea for a couple of minutes.

Remember this tip next time you have a sore throat from an illness. This study shows it can be effective in cases of illness, too.

Thyme

If you experience tightness in your respiratory passages during allergies, an herbal steam with thyme could help loosen things up. Thyme is also known to be an expectorant or mucus mover, so a nice cup of thyme tea might help ease congestion. A touch of honey in thyme tea makes it even better.

When it comes to seasonal allergies, nothing is a quick fix, but maybe something on the list above can give you a little break so you can get out and enjoy your garden. If you want to learn more about growing herbs, check out these other growing guides:

Grow Abundant Herbs

Why Should I Grow Herbs in my Garden

Herbs aren’t intended to replace prescription allergy medications. This information is about seasonal allergies, not anaphylactic severe allergies. It is for educational purposes only and should not be considered medical advice. Please refer to your healthcare provider before using herbs.

About Ginger

Zingiber officinale, or ginger, can be grown as a perennial in zones 9 and above. In the colder zones, it can be grown as an annual. It can take over a year of growing for a ginger rhizome to be considered mature. The ginger we buy at the grocery store is mature and has a thick skin which allows it to be stored for months. If you start growing ginger at home in late winter or early spring, you will be able to harvest “baby” ginger in about 4-6 months time. Baby ginger does not store for long because it has a very thin skin, but the thin skin means it is very tender and you can slice right through it.

Where to Find a Ginger Start

Ginger is grown from a rhizome instead of a seed. Some farms offer “seed pieces” or “mother” ginger for sale. Most ginger farms sell rhizomes that are certified organic and disease-free. You can also use ginger you find at the grocery store. It’s not too common, but store-bought ginger has a small chance of carrying fungus and disease. Sometimes conventionally grown, store-bought ginger is treated with an inhibitor to control early sprouting. Choosing organically grown ginger minimizes the risk of problems with sprouting and disease.

Choose a rhizome that feels firm (no squishy, bruised, or moldy ones). Look for ginger with a few big “eyes”. This is where the sprouts will come from.

Starting Ginger

It isn’t necessary to soak ginger in water before planting, but it can take off any growth inhibitor that might be on it and it helps to rehydrate the ginger, possibly making sprouting faster. So, it’s a step worth mentioning. You can soak it overnight or for a day or two.

If you have temperatures that are consistently above 60 degrees at night, you can start ginger outside, in an area with some dappled shade and moist, rich soil.

Growing Indoors

Ginger plants grow outwards rather than deep down in the soil, so if you plan on keeping your ginger in a container, choose one that is wide, with good drainage. Good drainage is a must. If ginger sits in water it can rot. Place your ginger rhizome on the surface of a rich potting mix, with the “eyes” facing upward. You can bury it in the soil about an inch down, or you can gently firm it on the surface, topping it off with soil but leaving the eyes exposed. Either way works. Leaving the eyes exposed might result in faster sprouting. If your container is big enough, you can put more than one rhizome in. Just make sure to leave some space for growth. Water your newly planted ginger. Use a heated seedling mat to help encourage growth. Keep it somewhere warm and bright, but out of direct sunlight. Heated greenhouses are a perfect place for ginger, but as long as it is kept warm it will do well in the house.

It can take a few weeks to see any shoots or roots from your ginger. If you left your eyes exposed to the light, start covering them up with soil once you see some growth.

Mimicking a Tropical Habitat

Keep your ginger happy by making sure it gets watered regularly, not too much, but just enough to keep the soil moist. If the soil is too wet and too cold the ginger can start to rot. So it’s also important to make sure that the soil is staying warm enough. You can keep a heated seedling mat underneath your pot until it’s ready to go outside. Being a tropical plant, ginger loves high humidity in the air. Keep your potted ginger close to other potted houseplants to naturally increase the humidity. Use a humidifier in your home if your air is extremely dry. It’s a good idea to feed ginger every month with a low-nitrogen fertilizer, being careful not to apply it directly to the plant.

Moving Day

You must keep ginger protected in your home or greenhouse until outside temperatures are, ideally, in the 70’s and above. For a lot of us, that means summer. Ginger does well in pots so you can simply move your pot outdoors when the time comes. Just make sure to place it in a partially shaded spot as you don’t want to be baking ginger in the sun. If you move the plant directly into a garden bed, the same rules apply.

Harvesting

For baby ginger, the best time to harvest is 4-6 months after you started growing it. If you want to harvest mature ginger you can continue to grow it on, but you must move it back inside before the temperatures start going below 50 degrees. For mature ginger, harvest when it is about 1 year old.

Mature ginger has a tough skin so it can be stored in the refrigerator for many weeks. Baby ginger is very tender and is best used fresh. It can be stored at room temperature or in the refrigerator for about 2 to 3 weeks. You can extend the shelf life of ginger, baby or mature, by chopping it up and freezing it.

Ginger is so versatile in the kitchen and can be used for sweet or savory dishes. In traditional medicine, ginger is used to take the edge off of nausea, improve digestion, promote good circulation, and many studies show it has anti-cancer potential.

Sure, it’s easy to go to the grocery store and pick up ginger any time you want it, but there’s something exciting about growing your own. It’s nice to have a little bit of tropical flair in your garden too. If you have the extra time and a little bit of space I think it’s worth trying out at least once!

For educational purposes only and not to be considered medical advice. Please refer to your health care provider before using herbs.

Why Plants Have a Botanical Name

With hundreds of thousands of known plant species, and over 2,000 new plants being discovered every year, it’s a good thing we have a universally recognized naming system. The botanical name, also known as the scientific name or Latin name, is made up of two names, the genus and species. If you see a third name with quotations, that means it’s a cultivated variety. The botanical name is the same worldwide. You can run into confusion if a plant has a lot of common names. In England, using the common name Aaron’s rod could refer to mullein, but in Scandinavia, it could refer to rose root. Using the botanical name ensures everyone is on the same page.

Learn the Botanical Names of Herbs

With your vegetable and flower garden you are free to choose by color, size, or even by name. Who can resist a ‘Teddy Bear’ sunflower? A pumpkin named ‘Warty Goblin’ deserves a spot in the fall garden. With herbs, however, you need to have knowledge of specific varieties. In the case of the witch hazel shrub, Hamamelis virginiana is the preferred type for herbal use. Not always, but usually cultivars, like ‘Jelena’, do not have a history of traditional use. Finding a good book on herbalism will help you learn which varieties are the ones you want to use. Another good reason to learn is because some herbalists and books will only refer to a plant by its botanical name.

Safety First

Many herbs have different species and each species can have different levels of the plant’s active ingredients. All elderberries’ leaves, stems, roots, and seeds have some level of toxicity from the cyanogenic glycosides they have. Sambucus racemosa, or the red elderberry, has the highest levels of these compounds so it’s best to avoid it for herbal use. The black and blue elderberries, Sambucus nigra, Sambucus canadensis, and Sambucus caerulea, are preferred, as they have the least amount of cyanogenic glycosides, and with proper preparation, are the safest elderberries to use.

Passionflower is an herb known for its sleep-enhancing qualities. Many nurseries have passionflower for sale. But there are over 400 species of passionflower! Passiflora incarnata is what’s used most in traditional medicine.  Passiflora edulis is where we get passionflower fruit from, but isn’t used as an herb as much as incarnata is. Other types might be toxic. Knowing the botanical name is very helpful in this case.

How Planter Can Help

Planter lists the botanical name in the information section of a plant. If a specific variety isn’t listed, you can add one yourself. Check out how to create a custom variety.

Labeling your herbs in Planter is helpful for when some perennial plants disappear in the winter. Let Planter be your garden map and you won’t confuse your Echinacea purpurea with your Echinacea angustifolia in the spring. 

It might seem overwhelming to learn the botanical names, but it’s an important part of having an herbal garden. With a little studying and the help of Planter, you’ll be inviting friends over for a cup of homegrown Melissa officinalis tea in no time.

What Makes a Plant an Herb?

So, first of all, what makes a plant an “herb”? The dictionary tells us an herb is: “a plant or plant part valued for its medicinal, savory, or aromatic qualities”. Herbs can be annuals or perennials. They can be shrubs or trees. They can be disguised as plants you always thought were just ornamental in the garden. Some common garden vegetables are considered herbs! For example, there are many studies on the heart health benefits of garlic.

There are many ways to enjoy herbs. It can be as easy as brewing a cup of tea or adding them to your meals. You can learn the art of making tinctures, salves, and infused oils. One of the best ways to enjoy herbs is just by tending to them and watching them grow. 

Culinary vs. Medicinal Herbs

You already know that we use culinary herbs, like rosemary, to add flavor to food. And you probably know some herbs that are used as supplements, such as Ginkgo biloba.  But people are often surprised to find out that a lot of the herbs sitting in their spice cabinet have a long history of use in traditional medicine! Thyme is an herb that is considered both culinary and medicinal.  Echinacea, on the other hand, is not quite as tasty and is usually only used for enhancing health. Some herbs are also too strong to use more than just a little bit at a time.

The Benefits of Having an Herbal Garden

• A lot of herbs are great for bringing in pollinators 

• Many herbs help repel garden pests

• No need to buy herbs at the store for your cooking

• Plants like nettles can be used to make a garden compost tea for fertilizer

• You can save money by making your own herbal preparations

• Adds to the feeling of self-sufficiency 

• Connects you to your heritage

• Helps you take charge of your well-being

How do I choose?

If you’re ready to add herbs to your space, you might be thinking about where to start. Here are some considerations: 

• How much space do you have? Do you have enough room to have herbs such as elderberries? Or do you need to stick to the patio with container gardening? The good news is that a lot of Mediterranean herbs like thyme, rosemary, and lavender do excellent in pots.
• Do you want herbs mainly for flavoring your cooking?
• Do you have the time for annuals? Or are perennials that come back on their own preferred? 
• Do you want to plan a tea garden?
• Do you want to grow enough herbs to keep a well-stocked home apothecary?

Plants like rosemary, thyme, and sage are good beginner herbs and they tend to be available at most nurseries and garden centers. They are also pretty easygoing. If you’re beyond the beginner herbs, chamomile, yarrow, parsley, and several types of mint are easy to find. For the more unusual herbs you might have to get them from a specialty shop or online. A quick internet search can point you to some medicinal herb companies.

Can I grow herbs in the fall and winter?

Cold-hardy herbs like parsley, bay leaf, winter savory, and some types of rosemary can be grown and harvested in the winter. They can be left outside as long as they have soil with good drainage. If you live in an area with very cold winters, look for varieties that are best for your growing zone. For some, growing herbs indoors is a better choice. Thyme, garden sage, and mint are easy to grow inside. You can often find potted basil at the grocery store too, even in the winter. You might have to supplement with a grow light during the darkest part of the year. Growing herbs indoors during the winter is a great way to pass the time while you dream about spring.

No matter what size garden you’re working with, be sure to include herbs in your garden plan in Planter.

Harvest your herbs

Your first instinct might be to just hack down every little bit of greenery that’s left on your herb plants. Before you do, note that some herbs are perennial and some are annual. Annual herbs such as basil and cilantro will typically die off in cold winters. Biennials such as dill and parsley may come back next season, but they are typically grown and harvested as annuals. Perennials such as thyme, oregano, mint, and sage can often survive a winter, depending on the variety, how cold your winters get, and the soil conditions. Since annuals die off in winter, you might opt to harvest them out completely when freezes are in the forecast.

You might also be tempted to hack back your perennial herbs to harvest as much as you can, but you’ll want to proceed more cautiously. While perennial herbs can benefit from pruning in late summer several weeks before your first frost, if you harvest aggressively before winter they might not be able to heal and come back next season. Don’t cut too far down on the stems and don’t remove a significant portion of the plant.

Harvesting your herbs is probably the simplest approach (other than doing nothing), but you’ll likely end up with a glut of herbs to use up. Try drying your excess herbs or chopping them up and freezing them in ice cube trays topped off with water or oil.

Save herb seeds

If your herb plants have formed mature seed heads, take advantage and save seeds for next season! Dill, cilantro, and parsley are all examples of herbs that are fairly easy to save seed from. To save seeds from your herbs, be sure the seed pods on the plant are fully mature- they should be light brown, not green. Cut off the seed heads and allow them to fully dry out before storing them (this can take up to a couple weeks). Remove the fully dry seeds from the heads, then store them in paper sachets, airtight containers, or plastic baggies and label them with the plant/variety and the year. If you’re interested in learning more about seed saving, be sure to check out Seed Saving 101.

Cover your herbs

Herbs can be surprisingly cold-hardy, with some notable exceptions such as basil. If you cover your herbs with row cover or clear plastic sheeting you can potentially keep harvesting them into winter. Annuals can still die off if temperatures drop too low, but covering them offers a few degrees of frost protection that can let you keep harvesting them just that little bit longer. Perennials often keep their leaves through winter- so long as they are accessible under the cover and you have the willingness to get out there, they can potentially be lightly harvested through winter. Even if you don’t intend to harvest them in winter, covering your perennial herbs, along with applying a thick layer of organic mulch, can help increase their chance of survival. For information on protecting plants from the cold check out Season Extension Techniques: Keep the Growing Going!

Bring herbs indoors

If your herbs are growing in containers you might be able to easily transition them indoors. In fact, it may be best to bring them indoors as even hardy perennial herbs may not survive freezing temperatures outside in a container. If you do bring your container herbs inside, check the plants thoroughly for pests and consider refreshing the soil to avoid bringing in unwanted houseguests. Otherwise, you can take cuttings from your herbs and root them in water (this works well with basil, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme to name a few). Herbs prefer full sunlight so to grow them indoors you’ll want to consider using grow lights to keep them as healthy as possible. If your herb cuttings fail to take root all is not lost- just start new herbs from seed as a fun indoor winter project!

Do nothing

Last but not least, you can simply let nature take its course. Without any extra effort you might find that your herb garden mostly bounces back come spring. Perennial herbs can make a comeback, semi-tender herbs might surprise you with their resilience, and some herbs might have self-seeded so you get brand-new plants as soon as the weather warms up! As mentioned, keep in mind that herbs left in containers outside are less likely to survive winter unaided (depending on the size of the container and the temperatures). Also be aware that some herbs, such as lavender, are fairly cold-hardy but will rot and die if they are left in wet, poorly-drained soil. Doing nothing is a bit of a gamble, but if you happen to end up with holes in your herb garden next season consider it an excuse to try growing some brand-new herb varieties!

Herbs can be sturdy winter warriors, but they are not all created equal! Decide what you want to do with each plant as the snow approaches, then hunker down and start planning in Planter for an abundant herb garden next year!

Why Add Herbs to Your Garden

Herbs pack a major flavor punch in a dainty package and greatly enhance any dish you add them to. The price of fresh herbs at the grocery store can make you flinch - ‘do I really need fresh thyme in that dish?’ But if you have a flourishing herb garden, you will be looking for new and creative ways to use them rather than shying away! Herbs also contain vitamins and minerals and offer many health benefits.

Most herbs are quite easy to grow. They can thrive in nutrient-poor soil and some even prefer to dry out slightly! And herbs benefit your garden overall- they are great companion plants that can help ward off pests and attract beneficial insects and pollinators.

How to Select Herbs for your Garden

The first thing to consider when deciding which herbs to plant is what herbs do you like to eat? If you don’t regularly enjoy eating it, don’t bother growing it (unless you are experimenting with something new!)

Some herbs, such as mint, are perennials that can come back every year. Some perennial herbs may not be able to withstand winter in your area though, so be sure to confirm that the specific varieties you select are hardy in your growing zone. There are also herbs, such as dill, that are prolific self-seeders that will likely regrow each year.

Perennial and self-seeding herbs can be an asset in your garden if they are planted in a convenient location. Be warned, though, that some of these herbs can take over your garden if they are not contained. Bear this in mind when choosing which herbs to plant and where to plant them.

How to Plant and Care for Herbs

Some herbs can be easily started from seed, and some can even be propagated from cuttings. Others can be more tricky to grow from scratch, but buying herb plants from your local garden center still provides a great return on your investment.

Generally, herbs prefer a full-sun location and very well-draining soil. If you are growing in heavy clay soil it will need amending with compost and sand. Different herbs can have unique preferred growing conditions, however. Even though it looks enticing to plant a variety of herbs together, check their unique growing needs in Planter and avoid grouping herbs with very different needs in the same space.

You may opt to grow herbs in containers to have better control of the growing conditions. Planting herbs in containers also has the advantage of helping to control spread (except for rogue seeds!) If you do plant your herbs in containers, be sure they have drainage holes or use fabric pots that allow excess water to drain. You will need to water herbs in containers more often than if they were planted in the ground or in larger raised beds. Containers will also need extra care over the winter. Bring them into a garage or shed to help protect them, and bear in mind that perennial herbs will be less winter-hardy if they are grown in containers.

Regardless of whether you plant in-ground or in containers, it helps to have your herbs in a location that is handy to the kitchen. Otherwise you might not be inclined to go harvest them when you are in the middle of cooking!

When it comes to caring for herbs often less is more. Many herbs do not like to be overwatered and prefer to dry out between waterings, and as a general rule herbs need minimal fertilizing. There are always exceptions though, so be sure to check Planter for watering and fertilizing recommendations for the herbs you grow.

When your herbs are ready to harvest, don’t be afraid to give them a haircut! Herbs thrive with a regular trim; it helps them be more productive. Just don’t cut away more than one third of the plant at once. Check out the harvesting and storage tips in Planter to get the most out of your herbs:

Include your favorite herbs in your garden, and enjoy harvesting the freshest possible herbs right outside your door!