Let me explain. 

As you prepare for a season of abundance, you’ve been nurturing your zucchini plants for weeks. The vines are sprawling, the leaves are lush, and then: boom, flowers! You wait. And wait. But the flowers come and go. They bloom, wither, and drop away. Still no baby zucchinis in sight. What. Is. Going. On? 

Welcome to the surprisingly steamy world of cucurbit reproduction. With around 965 species, the cucurbit family (also known as the gourd family) includes some of the most popular garden crops: zucchinis, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers, and more. Plants, it turns out, have their own version of a love story. And understanding how that story unfolds can make all the difference. In this blog, we’ll explore how cucurbits flirt, attract, and (with a little help) produce fruit, so you can help your garden grow into a truly fruitful affair. 

Meet the cucurbits  

Cucurbits are what’s known as monoecious (Greek for ‘‘one house’’). Meaning both male and female flowers grow on the same plant. Technically self-sufficient, they still need help getting pollen from one flower to another. Like from a native squash bee or the occasional butterfly.  

So, how do you tell who’s who in this shared floral household? 

• Female flowers have a small, immature (baby) fruit at the base and a stigma, which receives pollen. Depending on the species, it may be divided into multiple lobes. 
• Male flowers have a thin stem and a single, central stamen covered in pollen. 

First to bloom: why male flowers appear early  

If your zucchini plants are blooming but not fruiting, don’t panic. Those first flowers are likely male, and yes, they’re supposed to be early. Male flowers are like pollination scouts. They show up early to test the environment, check for pollinators, and throw a pre-party before the real stars (the female flowers) make their entrance. These early bloomers don’t grow fruit, but they do carry the pollen needed when the female flowers arrive. It’s nature’s way of being cautious.  

After all, why invest in fruit if there’s no one around to help with the, ahem, fertilisation? 

Most of the time, bees and other insects do the job just fine. But in modern gardens, especially in containers, urban settings, or during poor weather, they sometimes need a little help from us. 

How to lend a human hand (literally) 

If it seems like your cucurbits’ pollination department could use a little help, that’s where you come in. Enter a process called hand-pollination: manually transferring pollen from the male flower to the female flower, mimicking what bees and other pollinators naturally do. It’s a simple, hands-on way to give nature a gentle nudge and make sure fertilisation actually happens. 

To hand-pollinate:  

(The first time I tried this, I felt a bit awkward. You’ll understand why.)  

1. Pick a male flower and gently peel back its petals to expose the stamen.  
2. Gently rub it on the center of a female flower. 
3. Alternatively, use a paintbrush or cotton swab to transfer pollen. 

That’s it! Best to do this in the morning, when flowers are fresh and receptive. It’s a simple act of floral matchmaking that can yield big results.

Embracing the weird romance of your garden  

Who knew gardening could feel so intimate? The sex lives of your veggies may seem like a quirky curiosity but understanding them can be the difference between a fruitless season and a basket overflowing with zucchini, cucumbers, and pumpkins.

So, the next time you spot those bright yellow male flowers blooming early, give them a knowing wink. They’re just warming up for the main event. 

Don’t give up! Encourage pollinators with flowering herbs, avoid insecticides, and hand-pollinate when needed. Also, ensure your plants are well-watered and fed, stress can affect flowering and fruit set. 

And if your plants need a little help finding love, well: you’re officially qualified to play pollination cupid. 

Happy matchmaking, gardener. 

Tomatillos

If you’ve ever enjoyed ‘salsa verde’ at a Mexican restaurant, you should definitely give tomatillos a try in your garden! Tomatillos are in the Solanaceae (nightshade) family like tomatoes and peppers, but in many ways they are easier to grow. They enjoy heat and a long growing season, but as long as you get them up and growing in time they will produce like crazy until frost comes. They are relatively disease and pest resistant, and pruning or fancy trellising is not required! You can let your tomatillos bush out and offer them some support in a sturdy tomato cage- then watch them take off!

Potatoes

Potatoes are another Solanaceae family member that can be overlooked in the garden. Why bother using precious garden space to grow something that is so cheap in the grocery store? If you can eke out a few square feet somewhere in your garden (it doesn’t need to be prime real estate) it is worth giving potatoes a go. It is recommended to use seed potatoes purchased from a garden center for the best yields, but some success can be had by popping a few sprouting potatoes from your pantry into the ground Potatoes do prefer loose, fluffy soil and will appreciate sufficient moisture and nutrients, but otherwise they are a set-it-and-forget-it crop. Once you’ve tasted a garden-grown potato you’ll find space to grow them every year!

Spinach

Lettuce is often the go-to when it comes to leafy garden greens, but spinach is a true powerhouse plant. It is hardier than lettuce and contains more vitamins and nutrients. It’s also more versatile in the kitchen- you can grow lots of small spinach plants for tender ‘baby spinach’ that can be regularly plucked for fresh salads. Or you can let the plants grow larger for more substantial leaves that can be cooked or frozen. Like lettuce, spinach can be prone to bolting so you’ll want to consider succession planting for ongoing harvests. If you’re looking to add more greens to your garden and your diet, swap spinach into the rotation!

Turnip

Thinking about turnip might conjure up memories of mushy puree served exclusively over the holidays. But you might not know that there are some types of turnips that are deliciously sweet, crispy, and can be eaten raw or cooked. ‘Hakurei turnips’ are a farmer’s market favorite that are super easy to grow. They look like a jumbo-size white radish, and grow similarly to radishes, but the taste is fresh and juicy without any of the signature radish kick (radish haters love them!) The greens are also excellent for stir-frying. Even if adding turnips to your garden has never crossed your mind, be sure to give hakurei a try!

Winter Squash

Summer squash such as zucchini often takes front row in the summer garden, but winter squash that can be stored such as butternut, acorn, and spaghetti squash let you enjoy your garden-fresh harvest well into the winter months when other crops have long since been eaten. ‘Winter squash’ suggests a plant that should be grown in cooler weather, but they are in fact heat-loving plants that grow through the summer months (depending on your location). While winter squash plants can get large and ramble-y, one healthy plant can produce several squashes. And if space is tight, you can also trellis them vertically to free up precious square footage in your garden beds. Check out Grow Super Squash to learn how to grow winter (and summer!) squash.

Raspberries

While many gardeners jump straight into growing strawberries, raspberries are arguably the easiest berries to grow. And considering how expensive a small pint of raspberries can cost, they are well worth it! Red raspberry bushes do tend to spread over time- which can be a blessing but also can become a problem- so you’ll want to think about how to contain them. Raspberries need pruning each year to maximize the harvest, and how you prune them depends on which type of raspberry you are growing. Be sure to research this before hacking away! Other than an annual boost of nutrients and the occasional haircut, raspberries are easy-peasy to grow! For more info on growing raspberries check out Grow Bountiful Berries.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb might feel like an old-timey (dare I say boring?) plant, but they are a cornerstone of home gardening for a reason. Once they’re up and growing rhubarb plants are hardy as anything and require almost no maintenance, with some plants living on for several decades. And while the stalks are typically processed for baking and preserving, there’s really nothing easier than chopping up some rhubarb and freezing it to be able to make delicious rhubarb crisp! If you have a spot anywhere in your yard that gets sun exposure- even at the side of your house, mixed in with landscaping plants- just stick a rhubarb plant in there! You’ll appreciate having it every time you whip up a sweet-tart rhubarb delicacy.

You don’t need to give up all your garden go-tos to make way for new plants. Just Keep an open mind and try at least one or two plants you may have never thought of growing. You might just find they end up in your regular garden rotation!

Kale

Kale is truly an incredible plant. Not only is it astoundingly cold-hardy, once established it can grow through almost anything you can throw at it. Kale is a top low-maintenance plant pick because you plant it once and enjoy continuous harvests all season long (assuming you are harvesting it for larger, individual leaves). To harvest kale just snap off the lowest, largest leaves as close as possible to the stem, making sure to leave the top of the plant and several upper leaves intact. When harvested this way, kale can keep on producing well into fall and even winter…You might even find it grows back again the following year!

Chard

Like kale, chard is another season-long powerhouse producer. Chard is also cold hardy, so you can sow seeds early in the season when the planting schedule is not as intense! Chard has a spinach-like flavor and a similar texture when cooked, but unlike spinach chard is amazingly resistant to bolting. Chard leaves remain tasty and sweet all season long, even through the blazing heat of summer. Chard is harvested similarly to kale- cut off the largest, lower leaves as close to the base of the plant as possible.

Green onions

Green onions* are one of the least-fussy plants you can grow. They germinate readily, require minimal fertilizer, and can even tolerate a slight drought (emphasis on slight). Green onions are significantly less tricky to grow than bulbing onions, and there’s no curing process involved - you simply pull them out, wash them up and store them in the fridge. Green onions also ‘hold’ well in the garden - that is, you don’t have to harvest them all at a super-precise time. They’re happy to keep on growing until you need them (although eventually you might end up with some humongous green onions!)

*Note: green onions are a variety of onions in Planter!

Zucchini

Zucchini* makes the list of low-maintenance plants because of how hyper-productive it is! Growing just one or two zucchini plants could easily provide enough zucchini for your family (and you might even be giving it away!) Zucchini plants tend to be on the larger side but there are compact container varieties available that can help save space in the garden. With zucchini the only time-sensitive task is harvesting - it’s important to harvest the zucchinis before they get too large so the plant will keep on producing! Zucchini plants can produce all season long, although at some point they might succumb to pest and disease pressure. Rather than spending time battling pests and disease it may be more efficient to start a couple of back-up seedlings, timing them to reach maturity in the mid-late season. 

* Note: zucchini is a variety of squash in Planter!

Bush beans

While beans are a popular garden plant, for a low-maintenance bean harvest bush beans are the way to go. Bush bean varieties, as the name suggests, have a bushing growth habit which means they don’t require a trellis or support structure to grow and produce a harvest. Pole bean varieties in contrast are vining plants that do need a structure to climb on. Bush beans are also relatively easy to harvest since you don’t need to reach around a trellis. And, since bean plants fix nitrogen from the air (with the help of soil bacteria), you can skip the fertilizing routine for beans!

Herbs (not technically a plant)

‘Herbs’ is a bit of a catch-all, but truly they can be some of the easiest plants to grow. Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and oregano thrive in poor soil (soil low in nutrients) and actually prefer to dry out between waterings! Some herbs are also perennials- depending on the variety and your hardiness zone they can come back year after year without the need to re-plant. Then there are herbs such as mint and dill which are infamously easy to grow because they self-seed prolifically (and mint also spreads by rhizomes). Grow mint and dill in containers otherwise they grow so readily that they can turn into garden weeds!

Dwarf cherry tomatoes

Tomatoes can arguably be one of the most maintenance-intensive crops, depending on the variety, but dwarf cherry tomato varieties are easy-peasy. They are small, well-behaved little plants that produce prolifically without a need for trellising. They do not require much pruning - only to remove damaged or yellowing leaves and leaves touching the soil. Plus they grow well in containers- so weeding is minimized and you can keep them within reach for easy mealtime harvesting (or a quick garden snack!)

Incorporate these low-maintenance plants into your veggie garden this season to enjoy maximum harvests with minimal effort!

How to harvest, and when to harvest, will vary for different crops:

How to harvest tomatoes

Tomatoes can usually be harvested by carefully snapping them off the plant- stabilizing the branch in one hand and gently pulling on the tomato with the other. In many cases the tomatoes will easily separate from the vine, although some varieties have sturdier stems than others. If you feel any resistance, or just want to be cautious, opt for fine-tipped pruning shears to cut the tomato free. If you use shears, it’s a good idea to sanitize them with rubbing alcohol when moving from plant to plant to prevent disease spread.

To decide when to harvest your tomatoes, there are some trade-offs between flavor and productivity to think about:

Tomatoes can be harvested when they are fully ripe. A tomato is fully ripe when it has reached the full-grown size and deepest possible color expected for the variety. To recall what size and color your tomatoes should be, use Planter to keep track of which tomato varieties grow where in your garden:

Many people believe that leaving tomatoes to fully ripen on the plant gives them the best flavor. But leaving tomatoes on the plant to ripen can have some drawbacks. First, the plant may produce less tomatoes overall as it continues to put some of its energy into the ripening fruit. Second, tomatoes left on the plant longer have a higher chance of being attacked by bugs or birds, or falling off and rotting. Or, sometimes you just need to get tomatoes off the plant as frost approaches.

As soon as tomatoes just barely start to change color from green to yellow, pink, or red*, they will be able to continue ripening off the plant. This is called the ‘breaker stage’ of ripeness. After harvesting, leave the tomatoes on the counter in a paper bag to ripen fully (do not put them in the fridge!) You can be the judge of whether tomatoes ripened this way have a noticeable flavor difference compared to those ripened on the plant!

*Green tomato varieties are an exception- you’ll need to gently squeeze the tomato to tell if it’s ripe. Ripe tomatoes should give slightly when squeezed; if it’s rock hard it’s not ripe yet.

How to harvest squash

How and when to harvest squash depends on whether you are dealing with summer squash, such as zucchini or pattypan, or winter squash, such as butternut or acorn squash. Summer squash can be gently twisted off the plant, but with this technique there is some risk of damaging the squash or the plant. To avoid this, it’s recommended to carefully cut the squash off with a knife, leaving about 1” of the stem on the squash.

Summer squash should be harvested as soon as the fruits reach the expected size for their variety. Once your summer squash plants start producing be sure to check the plant every few days for fruits that are ready to be harvested. Frequent harvesting will encourage the plant to keep on producing, and will help ensure the squash get picked before they become too large, tough, and seedy.

Winter squash should be harvested once the squash has reached full size and the skin has toughened up. Test this by gently pressing a fingernail into the skin - it should not puncture easily. When harvesting winter squash keep a 2” stem attached to the squash- keeping a bit of stem attached will help the squash last in storage.

How to harvest lettuce

There are two main approaches to harvesting lettuce. With lettuce varieties that produce a head, such as romaine or Boston, usually the entire plant is harvested once a sizable, firm head has formed. To harvest a lettuce head, gently tilt the plant to the side so the stem is visible and cut it underneath the leaves.

The other harvesting technique that can be used for lettuce is called ‘cut-and-come-again’, where only some leaves are removed from the plant at a time, leaving most of the plant intact to keep growing. Cut-and-come-again harvesting is typically used with “loose leaf” lettuce varieties. Cut-and-come-again harvesting can be done by cutting or plucking the lower (oldest) leaves off as close as possible to the stem, leaving the upper (newer) leaves intact. It’s also possible to slice leaves off by cutting across the top few inches of the plant. While slicing crosswise is faster than removing individual leaves, it can be easy to sever the growing stem- stunting or killing the plant.

With either technique, be on the lookout for bolting which can cause your lettuce plants to turn unappetizingly bitter.

How to harvest peas and beans

When harvesting peas and beans, be careful not to yank on the plants as the stems can easily snap. Secure the plant in one hand and pull off pods with the other, ideally keeping a small piece of stem on the pod.

The trick with beans and peas is knowing when they are ready to be picked. There can be a fine line between not-ready-yet and too-far-gone, depending on the type of peas and beans you grow:

• For garden peas, the peas should be fully mature but still sweet. Snap peas should be harvested when the pods are tender and the peas inside are round and sweet. Snow peas are harvested when the pods are full-size but still flat.
• Snap beans should be harvested when the pods are full-size and the beans inside are not too mature and round. Shelling beans can be harvested when the beans inside have reached maturity but are still soft.
• If you are growing a drying-type pea or bean, things are a little bit easier- harvest when the pods are fully dry.

Harvest time is an exciting time in the garden; it’s the culmination of all the time and care you put into your plants. Following good harvest practices ensures you’ll get the best results for your efforts- veggies picked at their prime, and plants that keep on producing!

Types of Squash

Squash are members of a family of vining plants known as cucurbits (cucurbitaceae) that include zucchini, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins and gourds. Squash are traditionally divided into two groups: summer squash and winter squash. The terms ‘summer’ and ‘winter’ don’t refer to when the squash is grown - all squash are heat-loving plants - but instead refer to when they are harvested and consumed. Summer squash are generally harvested earlier, while the squash are not fully mature, and are eaten fresh. Winter squash are harvested later once the skins have become tough and thick, so the squash can be stored for up to several months.

Summer squashes include zucchini, pattypan, crookneck, and chayote.

Winter squashes include acorn, butternut, hubbard, and spaghetti.

Some types of squash, such as chayote, take a long time to mature and can be a challenge to grow in cooler climates. Other types, such as zucchini, will start producing quickly and are easier to grow in areas with shorter seasons.

Check out the squash varieties in Planter to find plants that suit your taste and your garden!

How to Grow Squash

It is generally recommended to direct seed squash, to avoid disrupting the roots with transplanting. However if you want to get a jump start on the season, it is possible to start them indoors and transplant them carefully to avoid damaging the roots.

If you plan to grow squash in containers, choose a container that will be large enough to allow the plant to reach full size.

Planter has all the detailed information you need to grow various types of squash successfully! Pay special attention to the many pests and diseases that can afflict squash. Click on each of the cards to learn about prevention, identification, and control techniques.

You can stave off disease issues by pruning your squash plants. Remove old, diseased, and dying leaves, and ensure there is good airflow through the plant. Despite your best efforts, there comes a point as the plants age where production slows and they start to die back. If you have enough time left in your growing season, you can replant (better yet, have transplants at the ready) to keep the harvests going.

Vining squashes need room to grow. You can grow them up trellises, or allow them to grow along the ground. There are pros and cons to each approach.

Trellising is more space-efficient as the plants grow up instead of out. It allows more airflow around the plants which can help prevent disease. It can also make the squash easier to harvest. Heavier types of squash may need additional support, such as slings, to stay attached to the vine.

Allowing the plants to sprawl along the ground means no engineering is required, but they take up more space. As the plants grow, they will root into the soil along the way, which can save the plant if the stem becomes injured, say from a hungry squash vine borer larva. You can help the vines root in by hilling some soil over top at different spots where they touch the ground.

When to Harvest Squash

Summer squash should be harvested when the fruits have reached the expected size for their variety. Do not leave summer squash on the plant too long, as they can become unappetizing when they are overly large and mature. Harvesting every few days, or even more often, helps ensure you pick the squash at the perfect time and encourages the plant to keep on producing. Always cut the squash off rather than twisting or pulling it, to avoid damaging the plant.

Winter squash should be harvested once the skin has had a chance to toughen up, which happens after the squash reaches full size. Test this by pressing a fingernail into the skin - it should not puncture easily. Keep at least a 2-inch piece of stem attached to the squash - this is important for the longevity of the squash in storage.

Winter squash should be cured before being stored. Use a dry towel to wipe any dirt off the squash then leave them in a sunny, dry area for 10-14 days before storing in a cool, dry spot. Depending on the type of squash, they can keep anywhere from several weeks to several months.

If you have ever been interested in growing squash in your garden, don’t let your enthusiasm be ‘squashed’… Find varieties that work in your space and enjoy the bumper crops!