Garden Sage

Garden sage (Salvia officinalis) is a favorite for flavoring meats and stuffing, but it’s also a super star herb for wellness. Clinical trials show sage leaves make an effective tea for easing the pain of sore throats.  Mix in a little thyme and lemon juice for even more goodness. Not a fan of sage’s strong flavor?  You can gargle an infusion of sage instead of drinking it. ​Sage is a very hardy perennial, and you can harvest bits all winter long, but if you live in an area with very harsh winters, you may want to cover it or grow it indoors during intense weather.​

Parsley

It’s not uncommon to overindulge around the holidays and experience digestive upset.  Parsley isn’t just decoration on a plate; it’s a great herbal remedy for bloating and indigestion.  Chew a few leaves before a rich meal to keep upset tummies at bay.  Parsley is a biennial plant, so it flowers in its second year.  Parsley is hardy in USDA growing zones 6 and above, but if protected in colder climates, it can be harvested year-round. The leaves, roots, and seeds can be used for herbal purposes. ​

Horseradish

Horseradish is an easy plant to grow. The best way is to get a root division from your garden center, a friend, or a grocery store-bought root. Plant the root in the spring to be ready to harvest in the fall or winter as needed. Horseradish roots can be stored in the fridge for a couple of months, too. For sinus congestion, nothing compares to a hit of horseradish to help clear passages. You can make a prepared horseradish sauce or chop up a small piece and eat it plain if you’re brave.  Fire cider recipes are very popular in traditional herbalism, and many feature horseradish for its immune-supporting properties.

Rosemary​

Rosemary is an evergreen herb. It comes in all sizes, so there’s sure to be one that suits your garden.  Rosemary is a tough plant, but if you’re expecting a particularly rough stretch of weather, like an ice storm, you can cover up your plant. Rosemary thrives in well-draining soil.  Throughout history, rosemary has been used as a circulatory stimulant, so a cup of rosemary infusion  could be helpful when you feel you need to warm up.  It’s full of antioxidants and may help support the immune system.  When you’re feeling under the weather, try adding a few sprigs of fresh or dried rosemary to your chicken soup.  ​

Rose

​Did you know that roses have many herbal uses?  The petals are commonly used in skin care preparations worldwide.  Roses offer a unique floral flavor to herbal teas.  But what can roses offer us in the winter?  The seed head that forms after a flower has bloomed is called a rosehip.  They are full of vitamin C.  During World War II, the British made a syrup from rosehips to combat scurvy because citrus was nearly impossible to obtain.  Rosehip jelly is a popular condiment in many countries. Rosehips can be dried and added to teas. For herbal use, the best varieties to use are the wild rose species like Rosa rugosa and Rosa canina. When making teas or jellies with rosehips be sure to use cheesecloth to strain out the little “hairs” that surround the seeds. They can be very irritating to your throat!

Thyme

If you could only choose one herb to grow for a winter-wellness garden, my pick would be thyme. It’s such a versatile herb!  Thyme has well-known anti-septic and anti-viral properties. Thyme tea has been used for cold symptoms, sore throats, fungal issues, digestive complaints, and to aid in fever reduction. It’s surprising what this little plant can do!   Brew a cup of thyme tea by adding 1 tsp of fresh or dried thyme to 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit for a few minutes and then strain.  Add lemon juice or honey for flavor. There are some really fun varieties of thyme with interesting flavors like orange thyme and lemon thyme. Thyme can be grown in a pot.​

Echinacea

Echinacea has been used for centuries for many conditions, including the common cold.  Studies have been done to see how the immune system reacts to echinacea, and there are conflicting reports. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that herbs shouldn’t be thought of as a cure-all, and we should remember that lifestyle affects our health more than any herb can. Our sleep, stress, and emotional management are also important. That said, the German Commission E is considered an expert panel on the use of plants for health, and echinacea is approved by them for the treatment of upper respiratory infections. The seeds, flowers, and roots are used in herbal preparations, with the most common varieties being E. purpurea and E. angustifolia. Try echinacea tea the next time you feel a tickle in your throat. Prepare a tincture from the roots in the fall for winter use. ​

Planning a winter-wellness garden is one way to keep the gardening fun going all year, and it could be helpful one day!  For tips on growing herbs in the winter, check out this growing guide. You can start planning your garden today withe the Planter App. Always consult with your health care professional before using herbs.

When to Harvest Roots

The best time to harvest roots is in the fall when your plant has stopped producing flowers and leaves and has started dying back.  All of the plant’s energy is being sent down to the roots to store up before the following spring, and this is when roots are at their best for herbal use. Dandelion roots, for example, have the highest amounts of inulin, a type of prebiotic dietary fiber,  in the fall.  If you can harvest your roots before the first significant frosts, the better. In the northern hemisphere, late September through early November are good times to get digging.  It’s also a good idea to harvest when you have the time to clean and process the roots, because roots start to get tough when they dry out. 

With certain plants, it’s best to wait to harvest the roots until their second or third year of growth. Some of these herbs are: elecampane, marshmallow root, and parsley.  But you also don’t want to wait too long: some roots can grow quite large and get tough and “woody”, making them hard to chop. Tough, old, woody roots are also less desirable because they may lack potency. Try to harvest roots before they get to their  4th growing season. If you let them go too long, divide them in half at the roots and replant, this can reinvigorate them.

Harvesting

The number one rule when harvesting a plant is to ensure you know what you are harvesting. Never harvest a plant if you aren’t entirely sure about its identity. If you planted it in your garden, then you most likely know what you have. Be cautious when wildcrafting. It’s safe to say most people know what a dandelion looks like. Still, there are “false dandelions,” so studying plant identification books is wise. 

After you’ve decided on the perfect day to harvest, grab a shovel or a garden fork and carefully dig around the plant, keeping in mind where the roots might be so as not to cut them (some roots grow outwards, so try not to chop them up), going around in a circle gently lifting the plant a little each time you move. Go around the plant until you can lift the root crown.  Some roots can be hard to dig up, and a special tool called a Hori Hori knife can be very handy. Make sure you don’t have roots from other plants intertwined into what you want to harvest.

Decide if you are going to harvest all of the roots or just some. If you want to replant, harvest ½ - ¾ of the root system and then replant at the depth you removed it from, removing any old stems or leaves so it can focus on rebuilding at the roots. 

Cleaning

If you harvest roots full of mud, spraying them off with a garden hose before bringing them inside can be helpful. Clean roots gently with water and a vegetable brush, but do not scrub too hard. 

Chopping

Chop the roots into pieces. It’s best to chop roots right away after harvest because some roots start to get tough, making them harder to cut. If you plan on using fresh roots for herbal products, then you should use them straight away. It’s best to use fresh roots when making some tinctures. Valerian roots, for example, are preferred by some herbalists to be tinctured fresh. 

Drying

If you plan on drying your roots, you need to do so after chopping them. Chopping them before drying ensures they will dry evenly. You can dry your herbs in a dehydrator, oven, or other method like in a paper bag. With roots, I always prefer to use a dehydrator so I know they are properly dried for storage. It can take a long time to thoroughly dry roots without a dehydrator.

Storing

After the roots have been thoroughly dried, store them in a glass container with a lid, like a mason jar or an airtight seal. Store them somewhere at room temperature and out of direct light. A dark pantry works well. Roots can be stored for 2-3 years. Some can be potent longer than that, but that is just a general rule. 

What to Make With Herbal Roots

With herbal roots, you can make: 

• Tinctures
• Infused oils
• Tea
• Vinegars
• Infused honey
• Syrups
• Condiments 
• Herbal “candy”

Ideas to Try

• Are you trying to give up caffeine and coffee but still want a hot drink with a rich flavor? Try making a tea out of dried dandelion roots. It won’t give you that caffeine rush but it is filled with prebiotic fiber your gut’s microbiome loves!
• To make infused honey, warm up some honey in a pot (do not overheat and burn the honey) or place a towel in a slow cooker and place a jar of honey on top of the towel. Add some dried herbs to the honey and let the mix infuse for several hours. Make sure not to leave unattended.  Strain the honey into a jar. Infused honeys are good for toast, mixed into teas, or eaten straight! Some of the most interesting roots to use for honey are elecampane, angelica, and ginger root (technically speaking, we use ginger rhizome, but we call it root). Heating up the honey does mean you risk losing some beneficial properties from the honey, so you can simply add dried herbs to a jar of honey and let it infuse for a couple of weeks. There are also ways to infuse honey with fresh herbs but you must make sure the water evaporates, otherwise you risk fermentation. You can find instructions on how to make infused honey with fresh herbs, on the internet. 
• Long ago, it’s said that the first marshmallows were created from the marshmallow plant’s roots. You can make an herbal syrup with the roots, which can then be made into the sweet treat we know today. There are vegan recipes and some made with gelatin. Search around for your favorite recipe. 
• Use horseradish root to make your own classic condiment or as an addition to an herbal fire cider recipe.

Sometimes, at the end of a long growing season, the last thing I want to do is get dirty and harvest the roots of my herbs, especially when it’s getting colder. But every time I do, I’m so happy I did it. Harvesting roots isn’t always glamorous work, but it’s definitely rewarding.  Always consult with your healthcare professional before using herbs.

Harvest Time Table

Ashwagandha -In its first fall before frost.

Dandelion- The fall of its first year. 

Echinacea- The fall of its third year.

Elecampane- The fall of its second year.

Horseradish- The fall of its first year, ideally after the first frost.

Marshmallow- The fall of its second or third year.

Valerian- The fall of its second year.

What makes a plant an insectary plant? Insectary plants provide food sources and shelter for beneficial insects, which attracts them and encourages them to stick around your garden. If you’ve already read our article Pest Hunters: Beneficial Predatory and Parasitic Insects, you know that there are many beneficial insects that prey on garden pests. By planting insectary plants we can encourage these predatory and parasitic insects to take up residence in our garden. Not to mention supporting pollinators which are much appreciated garden helpers!

You might be wondering: ‘if beneficial insects eat pests, why do they need plants for food?’ In many cases it’s the beneficial insects’ larvae that prey on insect pests while the adults feed mainly on pollen and nectar. This is why many insectary plants tend to be flowers or flowering herbs. In the case of herbs, it’s important to let at least some of the plants bloom if you want to attract beneficial insects.

Keep in mind that one lonely flowering plant will not entice an army of pest hunters! Aim to plant as many insectary plants as is possible with the space you have, and be sure to plant insectary plants with different bloom times to provide pollen and nectar all season long. Also, place insectary close to the plants you want to protect. If they’re too far away from your main garden the beneficial insects may not make the trek over.

To help with incorporating insectary plants in your garden plan, we’ve compiled a list of some common insectary plants and the beneficial insects they attract:

List of insectary plants

Ammi

Scientific name: Ammi majus

In a study of insectary plants from the University of Connecticut, Ammi majus was found to attract the highest number of beneficial predatory and parasitic insect families amongst all plants studied. Ammi was also the only plant in the study that attracted two types of parasitic wasps- braconids and ichneumonids. Ammi generally blooms in spring and early summer.

Borage

Scientific name: Borago officinalis

Borage is a favored pollinator plant in the garden. It is also highly attractive to beneficial insects such as lacewings, syrphid flies, and ground beetles. Borage may even help to repel hornworms and other pests! Borage self-seeds prolifically; regular deadheading can help to encourage flowering and to reduce the amount of seeds dropped. With good care borage will bloom for most of the growing season- from June to October or longer.

California poppy

Scientific name: Eschscholzia californica

California poppies are native to the western United States and Mexico. They are highly attractive to syrphid flies and can also attract minute pirate bugs. California poppies bloom from early spring to summer, depending on the climate. In warmer areas they are perennials, but in colder climates they are grown as annuals.

Catnip

Scientific name: Nepeta cataria

Catnip does double duty when comes to pest control. Not only does it attract beneficial nectar-feeding insects such as syrphid flies, but it also produces compounds that have been shown to repel pests such as aphids, squash bugs, and others. Catnip is an extremely aggressive spreader that also self-seeds prolifically, so you’ll want to keep it contained and grow it in an area where it cannot easily self-seed. Catnip usually blooms from late spring to mid-summer; deadheading when flowers die back can help to promote new blooms and reduce seed drop.

Chamomile

Scientific name: Matricaria chamomilla

Studies have found chamomile to be highly attractive to syrphid flies as well as parasitic wasps. Chamomile may also help to attract lady beetles, lacewings, minute pirate bugs, and tachinid flies. Chamomile blooms from spring right through to fall, providing a valuable season-long food source for beneficial insects.

Cilantro

Scientific name: Coriandrum sativum

Cilantro goes to flower readily especially when warm, dry weather arrives in late spring to summer. While this can be disappointing if you’re growing cilantro for it’s leaves, it’s a boon for attracting a variety of beneficial insects such as syrphid flies, tachinid flies, parasitic wasps lacewings, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Plus you can let cilantro form seeds then harvest them either to make coriander spice or to re-plant!

Dill

Scientific name: Anethum graveolens

While dill is technically a biennial it often flowers in the first season, depending on the variety and when it was planted. Dill is attractive to syrphid flies, lacewings, lady beetles, and parasitic wasps. You might also find green-black-and-yellow caterpillars on your dill plants. These are black swallowtail butterfly larvae, and while they do eat dill (and related plants) they rarely cause major damage. It’s best to leave them be!

As a bonus, dill may also have a repellent effect on aphids, cabbage loopers, squash bugs, and other pests. Plus dill readily self-seeds if the flowers are left to form seed heads!

Lavender

Scientific name: Lavandula spp.

English lavender is attractive to syrphid flies and lady beetles. Once established, lavender is a drought-tolerant plant that does not like ‘wet feet’, although it will flower best if not left to completely dry out. Lavender typically blooms from late spring to early summer. The scent of lavender, while appealing to many of us, may have a repellent effect on mosquitos, moths, and other pests.

Marigold

Scientific name: Tagetes spp.

Marigolds are a well-known beneficial garden plant, and for good reason! Marigolds are attractive to a variety of beneficial insects including lacewings, damsel bugs, big-eyed bugs, lady beetles, parasitic wasps, and minute pirate bugs. Marigolds also have many reputed pest-deterring properties, although only some of these are proven with research and the effects can vary depending on the type of marigold and how it is used. Marigolds can bloom almost all season long provided they are cared for and regularly deadheaded!

Mint

Scientific name: Mentha spp.

Mint and catnip are related and, like catnip, mint is a very aggressive spreader and self-seeder. So long as mint is contained it is a beneficial addition to the garden, attracting syrphid flies, damsel bugs, minute pirate bugs, and big-eyed bugs. Mint may also have a repellant effect on cabbage loopers and cabbage maggots. Mint usually blooms from late spring through summer; deadheading can help to encourage more blooms and reduce self-seeding.

Oregano

Scientific name: Origanum vulgare

Oregano is attractive to a variety of predatory and parasitic insects such as syrphid flies, tachinid flies, parasitic wasps lacewings, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Oregano may also help to repel aphids. Oregano tends to bloom in mid-summer. The leaves are more flavorful before the plant forms flowers, but do not harvest too aggressively if you want to encourage blooms.

Parsley

Scientific name: Petroselinum crispum var. crispum, P. crispum var. neapolitanum

Parsley is attractive to syrphid flies, lady beetles, parasitic wasps, and tachinid flies, Like dill, parsley is also technically a biennial but it can flower in the first season especially if exposed to extremes of hot or cold weather. Parsley also plays host to black swallowtail butterfly larvae, sometimes called parsleyworms. While they do eat parsley, they usually do not cause major destruction especially in the home garden.

Sunflowers

Scientific name: Helianthus spp.

Sunflowers are a tall and striking addition in the vegetable garden. They are attractive to syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Note that some speciality sunflower varieties do not produce nectar or pollen so they will not be helpful for beneficial insects (nor pollinators). Sunflowers usually bloom in late summer and early fall, providing a great late-season food source. Because sunflowers are tall and may share pests and diseases with other garden plants (more so than some of the other insectary plants), choose a location where sunflowers will not interfere with or shade out other garden plants.

Sweet alyssum

Scientific name: Lobularia maritima

Alyssum is a well-documented insectary plant that is attractive to syrphid flies, lacewings, tachinid flies, lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, and parasitic wasps. Because it is a compact, low-growing plant, alyssum can be tucked into almost any empty space in the garden to lure in beneficial insects (and to help suppress weeds and retain moisture). Alyssum can bloom from summer to fall, although it may slow down during very hot, dry weather. Keep alyssum well-watered and deadhead regularly to encourage continuous blooming.

Thyme

Scientific name: Thymus spp.

Beneficial insects tend to prefer many smaller flowers rather than individual larger flowers. Thyme, with its dainty white or pink flowers, is highly attractive to parasitic wasps, syrphid flies and other beneficial insects. Thyme can also help to repel whiteflies and cabbage moths. Thyme will typically bloom from late spring to summer. As with oregano, thyme leaves are best harvested right before the plant flowers but do not harvest too aggressively if you want to encourage bloom.

There are certainly many more insectary plants than the ones listed here! Of course there will be native plants specific to your area that can help to attract local beneficial predatory and parasitic insects to the garden. Also, research is just beginning to understand how particular garden plants can be best used for natural pest control. No matter which plants you choose, adding a variety of flowering plants in the garden is a great way to beautify the space while providing potential benefits to your edible crops!

What Makes a Plant an Herb?

So, first of all, what makes a plant an “herb”? The dictionary tells us an herb is: “a plant or plant part valued for its medicinal, savory, or aromatic qualities”. Herbs can be annuals or perennials. They can be shrubs or trees. They can be disguised as plants you always thought were just ornamental in the garden. Some common garden vegetables are considered herbs! For example, there are many studies on the heart health benefits of garlic.

There are many ways to enjoy herbs. It can be as easy as brewing a cup of tea or adding them to your meals. You can learn the art of making tinctures, salves, and infused oils. One of the best ways to enjoy herbs is just by tending to them and watching them grow. 

Culinary vs. Medicinal Herbs

You already know that we use culinary herbs, like rosemary, to add flavor to food. And you probably know some herbs that are used as supplements, such as Ginkgo biloba.  But people are often surprised to find out that a lot of the herbs sitting in their spice cabinet have a long history of use in traditional medicine! Thyme is an herb that is considered both culinary and medicinal.  Echinacea, on the other hand, is not quite as tasty and is usually only used for enhancing health. Some herbs are also too strong to use more than just a little bit at a time.

The Benefits of Having an Herbal Garden

• A lot of herbs are great for bringing in pollinators 

• Many herbs help repel garden pests

• No need to buy herbs at the store for your cooking

• Plants like nettles can be used to make a garden compost tea for fertilizer

• You can save money by making your own herbal preparations

• Adds to the feeling of self-sufficiency 

• Connects you to your heritage

• Helps you take charge of your well-being

How do I choose?

If you’re ready to add herbs to your space, you might be thinking about where to start. Here are some considerations: 

• How much space do you have? Do you have enough room to have herbs such as elderberries? Or do you need to stick to the patio with container gardening? The good news is that a lot of Mediterranean herbs like thyme, rosemary, and lavender do excellent in pots.
• Do you want herbs mainly for flavoring your cooking?
• Do you have the time for annuals? Or are perennials that come back on their own preferred? 
• Do you want to plan a tea garden?
• Do you want to grow enough herbs to keep a well-stocked home apothecary?

Plants like rosemary, thyme, and sage are good beginner herbs and they tend to be available at most nurseries and garden centers. They are also pretty easygoing. If you’re beyond the beginner herbs, chamomile, yarrow, parsley, and several types of mint are easy to find. For the more unusual herbs you might have to get them from a specialty shop or online. A quick internet search can point you to some medicinal herb companies.

Can I grow herbs in the fall and winter?

Cold-hardy herbs like parsley, bay leaf, winter savory, and some types of rosemary can be grown and harvested in the winter. They can be left outside as long as they have soil with good drainage. If you live in an area with very cold winters, look for varieties that are best for your growing zone. For some, growing herbs indoors is a better choice. Thyme, garden sage, and mint are easy to grow inside. You can often find potted basil at the grocery store too, even in the winter. You might have to supplement with a grow light during the darkest part of the year. Growing herbs indoors during the winter is a great way to pass the time while you dream about spring.

No matter what size garden you’re working with, be sure to include herbs in your garden plan in Planter.

Harvest your herbs

Your first instinct might be to just hack down every little bit of greenery that’s left on your herb plants. Before you do, note that some herbs are perennial and some are annual. Annual herbs such as basil and cilantro will typically die off in cold winters. Biennials such as dill and parsley may come back next season, but they are typically grown and harvested as annuals. Perennials such as thyme, oregano, mint, and sage can often survive a winter, depending on the variety, how cold your winters get, and the soil conditions. Since annuals die off in winter, you might opt to harvest them out completely when freezes are in the forecast.

You might also be tempted to hack back your perennial herbs to harvest as much as you can, but you’ll want to proceed more cautiously. While perennial herbs can benefit from pruning in late summer several weeks before your first frost, if you harvest aggressively before winter they might not be able to heal and come back next season. Don’t cut too far down on the stems and don’t remove a significant portion of the plant.

Harvesting your herbs is probably the simplest approach (other than doing nothing), but you’ll likely end up with a glut of herbs to use up. Try drying your excess herbs or chopping them up and freezing them in ice cube trays topped off with water or oil.

Save herb seeds

If your herb plants have formed mature seed heads, take advantage and save seeds for next season! Dill, cilantro, and parsley are all examples of herbs that are fairly easy to save seed from. To save seeds from your herbs, be sure the seed pods on the plant are fully mature- they should be light brown, not green. Cut off the seed heads and allow them to fully dry out before storing them (this can take up to a couple weeks). Remove the fully dry seeds from the heads, then store them in paper sachets, airtight containers, or plastic baggies and label them with the plant/variety and the year. If you’re interested in learning more about seed saving, be sure to check out Seed Saving 101.

Cover your herbs

Herbs can be surprisingly cold-hardy, with some notable exceptions such as basil. If you cover your herbs with row cover or clear plastic sheeting you can potentially keep harvesting them into winter. Annuals can still die off if temperatures drop too low, but covering them offers a few degrees of frost protection that can let you keep harvesting them just that little bit longer. Perennials often keep their leaves through winter- so long as they are accessible under the cover and you have the willingness to get out there, they can potentially be lightly harvested through winter. Even if you don’t intend to harvest them in winter, covering your perennial herbs, along with applying a thick layer of organic mulch, can help increase their chance of survival. For information on protecting plants from the cold check out Season Extension Techniques: Keep the Growing Going!

Bring herbs indoors

If your herbs are growing in containers you might be able to easily transition them indoors. In fact, it may be best to bring them indoors as even hardy perennial herbs may not survive freezing temperatures outside in a container. If you do bring your container herbs inside, check the plants thoroughly for pests and consider refreshing the soil to avoid bringing in unwanted houseguests. Otherwise, you can take cuttings from your herbs and root them in water (this works well with basil, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme to name a few). Herbs prefer full sunlight so to grow them indoors you’ll want to consider using grow lights to keep them as healthy as possible. If your herb cuttings fail to take root all is not lost- just start new herbs from seed as a fun indoor winter project!

Do nothing

Last but not least, you can simply let nature take its course. Without any extra effort you might find that your herb garden mostly bounces back come spring. Perennial herbs can make a comeback, semi-tender herbs might surprise you with their resilience, and some herbs might have self-seeded so you get brand-new plants as soon as the weather warms up! As mentioned, keep in mind that herbs left in containers outside are less likely to survive winter unaided (depending on the size of the container and the temperatures). Also be aware that some herbs, such as lavender, are fairly cold-hardy but will rot and die if they are left in wet, poorly-drained soil. Doing nothing is a bit of a gamble, but if you happen to end up with holes in your herb garden next season consider it an excuse to try growing some brand-new herb varieties!

Herbs can be sturdy winter warriors, but they are not all created equal! Decide what you want to do with each plant as the snow approaches, then hunker down and start planning in Planter for an abundant herb garden next year!

Do all veggie plants need full sun?

For the most part, vegetable plants grow and produce best in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day). Veggie plants need ample sun to be able to photosynthesize and grow as quickly as possible- a lack of sun may not outright kill them but it can severely stunt their growth. But there are some plants that will still produce a respectable harvest in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun per day). Gardening successfully in part shade comes down to being selective about what you choose to grow and having realistic expectations about how much you’ll be able to harvest.

If your potential garden location is in near total shade and gets only a few hours of sun each day, you may want to skip down the Alternatives to gardening in part shade section of this article. While you can certainly have fun experimenting with growing edible plants in shade (you might even discover some non-traditional edible plants that grow well in shade), you’ll likely only be able to muster up a meager harvest.

Veggie plants to grow in part shade

Lettuce and leafy greens

Lettuce and other leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are star performers in the shade. Growing them in part shade can even have some benefits, as blazing summer sun can contribute to them bolting. To get the plants off to a good start you may want to consider starting them indoors then transplanting out to the shadier parts of your garden. It can be challenging to get lettuce to form full-sized heads in part-shade, but you can certainly harvest it as cut-and-come-again lettuce.

Green onions and chives

‘Bulbing onions’ require full sun to form their large, edible bulbs, however green onions and chives are excellent shady garden plants because they are primarily harvested for their slender, pungent greens. While they will produce best in full sun, you can tuck them into shady spots and still harvest enough to make the effort worthwhile. To learn more about growing these and other allium-family crops be sure to check out Grow Amazing Alliums.

Radishes

By now you might be noticing a theme with shady-garden plant picks: they tend to be green and leafy. Radishes can add a nice burst of color to an otherwise monotone shady salad garden. Radishes can still form nice-sized roots when grown in part shade- although it might take longer than usual for the bulbs to form. Be careful not to use too much high-nitrogen fertilizer where you plant radishes, as this will stimulate them to form lush leafy tops and tiny roots. If this does happen all is not lost- radish greens are edible too!

Beets

Like radishes, beets are another root crop that can be grown in partial shade. The roots of shade-grown beets will likely be smaller than their full-sun counterparts, but you can always roast them whole and just call them ultra-gourmet baby beets. Don’t leave beets in the ground for an excessively long time hoping that massive roots will form- they might just turn woody and tough instead. Beet greens are also totally delicious in salads or sauteed, so if you do find the bulbs are too diminutive the greens will not disappoint!

Brassicas (such as broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale)

Brassicas can be grown in part-shade locations- but they must receive at minimum 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. If your location has dappled sun throughout the day, you may want to avoid growing brassicas there. Because brassicas, like leafy greens, are prone to bolting under stress caused by heat and drought, growing them in shade may help to delay this. Patience is key as brassicas are already slow-growing crops and they will grow even more slowly in the shade. You likely will not be able to get super-sized heads to form on your broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, but it’s at least possible to grow small, tender heads. Start brassicas indoors to give them the best possible chance to grow and reach maturity in the shade.

Peas

While peas perform best when in full sun, you can still get a harvest if they’re planted in part shade. You might even be able to trellis your climbing peas so that the plants are able to climb out of the shade to reach more sun. It is important to plant your peas with enough time for them to reach maturity before the summer heat comes. While partial shade will help keep them cooler for longer, eventually they will stop flowering and producing peas in the summer’s heat. For more info on growing peas, check out Grow Awesome Legumes.

Certain herbs (such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley)

While Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and oregano prefer full sun and soil on the drier side, other herbs such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley don’t mind a bit of shade. The shade will help keep the soil moist and will help delay bolting. Trim (and cook with!) herbs planted in part-shade regularly to help keep the plants bushy and compact. And a special warning about mint: be sure to plant it in a container to keep it from spreading prolifically.

Alternatives to gardening in the shade

Container gardening

While your yard might be submerged in shade, perhaps there’s a sunny spot on a deck or front porch that could be a great spot to grow veggies in containers. Virtually every type of veggie can be grown in a container provided the container is large enough for the crop, and you water and fertilize regularly to keep the growing medium moist and full of nutrients. Containers can also be moved around as needed to capture the most amount of sun available as the sun’s angle changes.

Rent a community garden plot

If your house is in the middle of the deep woods your best bet for getting a sizable garden harvest could be to rent a plot at your local community garden. Community garden plots are typically very inexpensive to rent for an entire season and will let you grow sun-loving veggies much more successfully. If you garden in a community plot be sure to set reminders to water your garden when the weather’s hot and dry, as you won’t be able to check the state of your plants as easily as in a backyard garden.

Garden with neighbors and friends

If your neighbors and/or friends have unused backyard space that gets full sun exposure, try striking up a deal with them! If they let you use the space for gardening you can bestow them with tasty garden-grown produce throughout the season. If your friends happen to be gardening enthusiasts all the better- you can share the work, share knowledge, and share the reward!

Don’t let the semi-shaded parts of your garden be nothing more than wasted space. Maximize your harvests by growing some of these shade-tolerant plants and saving the full-sun spaces for sun-loving crops. Every harvest you can get from a shady space is a gardening win!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

Why Add Herbs to Your Garden

Herbs pack a major flavor punch in a dainty package and greatly enhance any dish you add them to. The price of fresh herbs at the grocery store can make you flinch - ‘do I really need fresh thyme in that dish?’ But if you have a flourishing herb garden, you will be looking for new and creative ways to use them rather than shying away! Herbs also contain vitamins and minerals and offer many health benefits.

Most herbs are quite easy to grow. They can thrive in nutrient-poor soil and some even prefer to dry out slightly! And herbs benefit your garden overall- they are great companion plants that can help ward off pests and attract beneficial insects and pollinators.

How to Select Herbs for your Garden

The first thing to consider when deciding which herbs to plant is what herbs do you like to eat? If you don’t regularly enjoy eating it, don’t bother growing it (unless you are experimenting with something new!)

Some herbs, such as mint, are perennials that can come back every year. Some perennial herbs may not be able to withstand winter in your area though, so be sure to confirm that the specific varieties you select are hardy in your growing zone. There are also herbs, such as dill, that are prolific self-seeders that will likely regrow each year.

Perennial and self-seeding herbs can be an asset in your garden if they are planted in a convenient location. Be warned, though, that some of these herbs can take over your garden if they are not contained. Bear this in mind when choosing which herbs to plant and where to plant them.

How to Plant and Care for Herbs

Some herbs can be easily started from seed, and some can even be propagated from cuttings. Others can be more tricky to grow from scratch, but buying herb plants from your local garden center still provides a great return on your investment.

Generally, herbs prefer a full-sun location and very well-draining soil. If you are growing in heavy clay soil it will need amending with compost and sand. Different herbs can have unique preferred growing conditions, however. Even though it looks enticing to plant a variety of herbs together, check their unique growing needs in Planter and avoid grouping herbs with very different needs in the same space.

You may opt to grow herbs in containers to have better control of the growing conditions. Planting herbs in containers also has the advantage of helping to control spread (except for rogue seeds!) If you do plant your herbs in containers, be sure they have drainage holes or use fabric pots that allow excess water to drain. You will need to water herbs in containers more often than if they were planted in the ground or in larger raised beds. Containers will also need extra care over the winter. Bring them into a garage or shed to help protect them, and bear in mind that perennial herbs will be less winter-hardy if they are grown in containers.

Regardless of whether you plant in-ground or in containers, it helps to have your herbs in a location that is handy to the kitchen. Otherwise you might not be inclined to go harvest them when you are in the middle of cooking!

When it comes to caring for herbs often less is more. Many herbs do not like to be overwatered and prefer to dry out between waterings, and as a general rule herbs need minimal fertilizing. There are always exceptions though, so be sure to check Planter for watering and fertilizing recommendations for the herbs you grow.

When your herbs are ready to harvest, don’t be afraid to give them a haircut! Herbs thrive with a regular trim; it helps them be more productive. Just don’t cut away more than one third of the plant at once. Check out the harvesting and storage tips in Planter to get the most out of your herbs:

Include your favorite herbs in your garden, and enjoy harvesting the freshest possible herbs right outside your door!

What are Cold-Hardy Crops?

There are several cold-hardy crops that will grow in cooler temperatures and can withstand a mild frost or even a freeze. These plants are typically divided into two groups - semi-hardy which can tolerate a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and hardy which can tolerate heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). Not only do these plants withstand the colder temperatures, they actually grow best in the cooler weather.

Examples of semi-hardy crops include: carrots, beets, lettuce, cilantro, and peas.

Examples of hardy crops include: kale, spinach, garlic, chives, and parsley.

Use Planter to identify cool season plants that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant to frost! Select a plant and refer to the Season and Frost cards under Quick Info:

Note that cold-hardy crops are not to be confused with cole crops. Cole crops are members of the brassica family specifically- and while they do love the cold - they are just one family out of many that happen to enjoy cold weather.

When to Plant

Knowing when to plant cold-hardy crops can be tricky. Obviously, the ground should be workable. Aside from this how do you know when it is safe to plant? As a first step, check the Growing Calendar in Planter, to see when the crops you are interested in planting can be sown (or transplanted) outdoors in your area.

It’s a good idea to use a soil thermometer to measure the ground temperature to ensure it is warm enough for seeds to germinate. Seeds that are planted in soil that is too cold for them to germinate will absorb water without germinating, which leaves them susceptible to rot. Research the ideal soil temperatures to germinate the crops you are planning to grow.

Even if the ground is warm enough to plant, there is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate! There may still be a risk of extreme weather that could potentially kill off even the most hardy crops. To help avoid this, mulch the plants generously to protect them from the elements. Cover plants with plastic sheets or cloches if severe cold rolls in. Also, sow regular successions (‘waves’) of crops. If some plants do perish in the harsh spring conditions, planting in succession helps ensure there will be new plants growing up not far behind.

Caring for Cold Hardy Crops

Prior to planting cool season crops, prepare the bed by working in compost and a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer. Depending on the crop, you may need to re-apply fertilizer every several weeks.

Although it may not be warm out, still be on the lookout for dry conditions. If there isn’t enough rainfall, provide sufficient water to keep the ground consistently moist

Take full advantage of the early spring growing season - don’t miss out on delicious harvests of cold-hardy crops!