Many gardeners will plan one thing to grow in a row or an entire garden bed. However, with some careful planning, you can make use of the time before those plants go in and after you take them out.

This is the heart of succession planting: using the same space for multiple crops (the same plant, or different plants) over the course of the growing season. It’s not just for serious growers. Even a small garden can produce a surprising amount when the timing lines up.

Planting in Succession

Imagine that you want to grow peppers, a delicious warm-season crop. After checking the dates for your area, you realize you can’t plant them outside until quite late in the year due to frost, even though some plants can be started in February.

But that doesn’t mean the space has to sit empty. While you wait for warmer weather, you can use that garden bed for cool-season crops, which don’t mind a little frost. These early growers will be ready to harvest just in time to make room for your pepper transplants later on.

Here I decided to grow radish and spinach before transplanting the peppers later in the year. Using the same principles, the peppers are then replaced by leeks, which don’t mind the cooler fall weather.

Creating a table helped me visualize the dates for this succession planting, so that I knew all the plants would work together.

Planting in Waves

Some crops mature quickly and leave behind empty soil. Lettuce is a great example of this. Lettuce matures quickly and produces a lot from each plant. By staggering your plantings, you can have a steady harvest of lettuce throughout the growing season, instead of all at once.

Lettuce also keeps in the ground quite well, so you don’t have to harvest it all right away. Let’s look at a detailed example.

For my garden, I’ve planned one 3ft row of lettuce and have chosen three varieties, each with a slightly different taste and flavor profile. To plan exactly when to plant and when they’ll be ready to harvest, I created this table.

This will vary based on your location. If you live somewhere particularly wet, your lettuce might not keep for as long in the ground, or it might take longer to mature.

Planting Different Varieties

Some plants don’t offer the flexibility that lettuce does. Tomatoes, for example, have a long growing period before they mature, and need the cooler weather to get big enough before they fruit. If you want tomatoes all throughout the year, you can plant different varieties.

Cherry tomatoes typically ripen soonest, then medium-sized ‘slicer’ style tomatoes, with the larger tomatoes maturing the latest. Growing some of each will give you a plentiful supply and a good variety.

It’s important to remember how plants produce their harvest, too. Some plants are determinate and produce most of their harvest all at once. Indeterminate varieties will produce relatively consistently across the season after they mature. We’ll dive into this more a little later.

In this garden bed, we have three varieties being transplanted in April and one in June. This combination gives a staggered harvest across the summer and into the fall, with some excellent Long-Keepers that will store well into January in the right conditions.

Keeping the Soil Healthy

With staggered and successive planting, soil health can decline more quickly, but with some careful management, you can prevent this.

Focusing on companion plants helps balance nutrient depletion. For example, nitrogen-fixing plants like peas or beans can replenish the soil, while herbs like basil or marigolds can improve plant health and deter pests.

Adding small amounts of compost and fertilizer between plantings also keeps the soil healthy. Compost enriches the soil, improving moisture retention and nutrient supply, while a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can support heavy feeders.

Mulching is another simple yet effective strategy. It helps regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and reduce weeds. As mulch decomposes, it adds organic matter to the soil, further boosting its health.

With these strategies, your soil can remain vibrant and productive throughout the growing season, supporting your plants’ needs.

Almost There!

Hopefully, this has given you some great ideas on how to plan your garden. The final article in the series will discuss yields, considerations for your harvest, and other important considerations.

Why Cold-Hardy Veggies?

Cold-hardy vegetables are a special group of plants that can handle chilly temperatures and even a touch of frost. These tough veggies are perfect for planting in the fall and winter, allowing you to extend your growing season and enjoy homegrown goodness even when the weather isn’t exactly balmy. Use the Planter App to identify cold hardy veggies that can handle a light frost or in some cases even a freeze!

Our Top 10 Picks for Your Winter Garden

Kale

This leafy green superstar is packed with nutrients and comes in a variety of colors and textures. Kale prefers well-drained soil and a spot with plenty of sunshine. Give it regular waterings, and you’ll be enjoying delicious salads and smoothies all winter long.

Varieties: ‘Lacinato’ (Dinosaur Kale): This variety has dark blue-green leaves with a savoyed (ruffled) texture. It’s known for its slightly sweeter flavor compared to other kales.

‘Red Russian’ Kale: This variety has red stems and purplish-green leaves with a milder, sweeter flavor. It’s also very ornamental!

‘Winterbor’ Kale: This variety is extremely cold-hardy, as the name suggests, and can tolerate temperatures down to -10°F. It has a slightly sweeter and more tender texture than other kales.

Spinach

Another nutritional powerhouse, spinach is a fast-growing cool-season crop. Like kale, it prefers full sun and well-drained soil. You can start harvesting baby spinach leaves in just a few weeks!

Varieties:

‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ Spinach: A classic variety that’s slow to bolt (go to seed) and produces large, dark green leaves.

‘Space’ Spinach: This variety is resistant to downy mildew and produces baby spinach leaves that are perfect for salads.

‘Tyee’ Spinach: This variety is known for its high yields and resistance to bolting, making it a great choice for the Southeast.

Radishes

These little root vegetables are super easy to grow and add a peppery crunch to salads and sandwiches. Radishes prefer loose, sandy soil and mature in about a month.

Varieties:

‘Cherry Belle’ Radish: A popular variety that matures quickly (in about 22 days) and produces round, red roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor.

‘French Breakfast’ Radish: This variety has elongated, red roots with white tips and a slightly spicy flavor.

‘White Icicle’ Radish: This variety has long, white roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor. It’s also slower to bolt than other radishes.

Carrots

Believe it or not, carrots actually sweeten in flavor when grown in cool weather. Choose a variety with short roots for best results in the winter garden. Make sure your soil is loose and free of rocks to allow for proper root development.

Varieties:

‘Danvers Half Long’ Carrot: A classic variety that’s well-suited for heavy soils and produces medium-length, sweet roots.

‘Little Finger’ Carrot: This variety is perfect for the Southeast’s shorter growing season, as it matures quickly and produces small, tender roots.

‘Paris Market’ Carrot: This variety produces round, bite-sized roots that are perfect for snacking or roasting.

Lettuce

Enjoy fresh salads all winter long by planting cold-hardy lettuce varieties. Loose-leaf lettuce is a great option for beginners, as it can be harvested continuously. Provide your lettuce with partial shade and consistent moisture.

Varieties:

‘Black Seeded Simpson’ Lettuce: A popular loose-leaf variety with bright green, ruffled leaves and a mild flavor.

‘Winter Density’ Lettuce: This romaine lettuce variety is cold-hardy and can tolerate some frost. It has crisp, dark green leaves.

‘Red Sails’ Lettuce: This loose-leaf variety has beautiful red leaves with a mild flavor and adds a pop of color to salads.

Onions

Onions are a kitchen staple, and many varieties can be planted in the fall for a spring harvest. Choose onion sets or transplants for easiest planting. Onions need full sun and well-drained soil. Short-day onions grow best in mild winter climates, such as zone 7 or warmer.

Varieties:

‘Yellow Granex’ Onion (Vidalia): This variety is a favorite in the Southeast and produces large, sweet onions.

‘Red Creole’ Onion: This variety is known for its pungent flavor and beautiful red color.

‘White Bermuda’ Onion: This variety produces large, mild onions that are great for slicing.

Garlic

Plant garlic cloves in the fall, and you’ll be rewarded with flavorful bulbs in the spring. Garlic prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Don’t forget to mulch around your garlic plants to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Varieties:

‘Silverskin’ Garlic: This softneck variety is well-suited for the Southeast and produces large bulbs with a strong flavor.

‘Inchelium Red’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its rich, complex flavor and beautiful purple stripes.

‘Spanish Roja’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its robust flavor and long storage life.

Turnips

Both the roots and greens of turnips are edible, making them a versatile addition to your winter garden. Turnips prefer full sun and loose, fertile soil. They’re also relatively fast-growing, maturing in about two months.

Varieties:

‘Purple Top White Globe’ Turnip: A classic variety with a purple top and white flesh. It has a mild, sweet flavor.

‘Hakurei’ Turnip: This Japanese variety has a sweet, delicate flavor and can be eaten raw or cooked.

‘Seven Top’ Turnip: This variety is grown primarily for its greens, which have a mild, spinach-like flavor.

Peas

Enjoy sweet, tender peas by planting them in the fall. Choose a variety that’s specifically bred for cool weather. Peas need full sun and something to climb on, like a trellis or fence.

Varieties:

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ Pea: This snow pea variety is cold-tolerant and produces sweet, edible pods.

‘Wando’ Pea: This garden pea variety is heat- and cold-tolerant, making it a good choice for the Southeast.

‘Maestro’ Pea: This shelling pea variety is known for its high yields and sweet flavor.

Swiss Chard

This colorful leafy green is a close relative of spinach and beets. It’s packed with vitamins and minerals and can be used in a variety of dishes. Swiss chard prefers full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.

Varieties:

‘Bright Lights’ Swiss Chard: This variety has colorful stems in shades of red, pink, orange, and yellow, making it a beautiful addition to the garden.

‘Lucullus’ Swiss Chard: This variety has white stems and dark green leaves with a slightly savoyed texture.

‘Rhubarb Chard’ Swiss Chard: This variety has red stems and green leaves with a slightly tart flavor.

Additional Tips for Winter Gardening

Even though these veggies are tough, they can still use a little extra TLC during the colder months. Here are a few tips to help your winter garden thrive:

• Frost Protection: While these veggies can handle some cold, a hard frost can still damage them. If a freeze is predicted, protect your plants by covering them with a row cover or blanket overnight.
• Water Wisely: Plants need less water in the winter, so don’t over do it. Water deeply but less frequently, and make sure the soil has good drainage to prevent soggy roots.
• Feed Your Soil: Healthy soil means healthy plants! Amend your soil with compost or other organic matter to provide nutrients and improve drainage.
• Sunlight is Key: Even in winter, most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Choose a sunny spot for your garden, and be mindful of shadows cast by buildings or trees.

Ready to enjoy fresh, homegrown veggies all winter long? By planting these cold-hardy varieties now, you can extend your harvest and savor the flavors of the season. Imagine the satisfaction of serving up a salad made with ingredients you grew yourself, even in the depths of winter!

Don’t forget to download the Planter App for more winter gardening tips, tricks, and personalized advice. Happy growing!

What Should Pets Eat?

There are debates about the “right” diet for cats and dogs. In the wild, dogs are omnivores.  They eat meat, of course, but they also eat the stomachs of animals, which are usually full of fermenting plant material. Cats’ stomachs are very acidic, so they can survive primarily on meat.  However, plant fiber can help feed the bacteria in cats’ stomachs.  Some people feed their pets kibble, some choose wet food, some cook their pet’s meals from scratch, and some feed pets raw food. Ultimately, the choice is up to you, but if you want to give your pets some home-grown treats or you hope to enhance their health, sharing your garden bounty is a good way to do so. 

It’s important to note that animals’ bodies digest and process some plants differently than us, and sometimes the wrong food can be harmful. Start with a small amount when giving your pet a new food for the first time. If you are feeding your pets packaged dried fruit, be sure xylitol isn’t used as a sweetener because it is toxic to animals. PetMD.com is a good place to find out which fruits and vegetables are safe for cats.  The American Kennel Club has good information regarding dogs.  It’s always a good idea to check with your pet’s vet before introducing new foods, especially if they have health concerns.

Dogs

Some dogs love fruit and veggies, and some want nothing to do with them! If your dog wants nothing to do with fresh veggies, you can try cooking them and adding them to your dog’s food.  Fruit and veg can be an excellent way to add fiber to your pet’s diet, which can be lacking in kibble.

According to the AKC, here are some safe fruit and vegetables for dogs (not a complete list): 

• Apples- make sure they don’t eat too many seeds
• Bananas- try blending up frozen bananas and peanut butter for a dog smoothie
• Blueberries- frozen blueberries are a nice treat on a hot day!
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cantaloupe
• Carrots- carrots make a good chew toy (supervise your pet so they don’t choke)
• Celery
• Cranberries- know any dogs who like them?
• Cucumbers
• Green beans- cooked green beans are a hit with a lot of dogs
• Ginger- technically an herb, but good for upset digestive systems
• Peaches
• Pears
• Peas
• Pumpkin-a great base for homemade dog treats and pumpkin seeds have essential fatty acids 
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes- small amounts of ripe tomatoes are okay
• Strawberries
• Watermelon

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Asparagus- difficult for dogs to digest properly
• Avocado
• Cherries- the pits, stems, and leaves can cause problems
• Chives
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions

According to the AKC, citrus and spinach are potentially safe but it’s better to avoid them. Dogs should only be fed cooked potatoes in small amounts, and they should never be fed green potatoes. Dogs shouldn’t eat green tomatoes or any part of a tomato plant.

Cats

Cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so most don’t like fruit. Most cats will pick a platter of tuna over a pile of green beans, but if you have a cat with a sophisticated palette, you can try some snacks from the garden. If your cat won’t try fresh produce, you can dehydrate the fruit or veggies, then powder them, and sprinkle a little on their food. And of course, cats (and dogs) usually love catnip!

Safe fruit and vegetables according to PetMD (not a complete list):

• Apples
• Asparagus
• Bananas
• Blueberries
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cantaloupe
• Cranberries
• Cucumber
• Ginger- an herb that’s good for upset digestive systems 
• Pear
• Peas
• Peppers
• Pumpkin
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Chives
• Citrus
• Garlic
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions
• Rhubarb

The same applies to potatoes for cats and dogs: cook potatoes before serving and never feed them green potatoes.  Cats can have tiny pieces of ripe tomatoes. They should never eat green tomatoes or any other part of a tomato plant.

Other Pets: 

Birds:

Birds can and should eat a lot of fruit and vegetables. This website is a good resource for learning more about what is safe. Avoid garlic, onions, avocados, and head lettuce varieties that are high in water content. 

Gerbils and Hamsters:

Be mindful of the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables that hamsters and gerbils eat. Too many snacks high in water content can cause gastrointestinal distress. Keep your serving sizes small. These pets can safely enjoy apples, bananas, berries, lettuce, kale, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and more!  

Rabbits:

These veggie lovers will eat almost every plant in a garden! However, rabbits are not recommended to eat onions, leeks, garlic, raw potatoes, or iceberg lettuce. Dark and leafy lettuce is okay. 

Fish: 

I was surprised to learn that pet fish can eat treats from the garden. You might want to research all of the things that different types of fish can eat, but some produce fish can eat (according to research online, I am not a fish expert) are cucumber, lettuce, carrots, pieces of pumpkin, apples, pears, berries, and zucchini.  Word on the internet says to avoid oranges and watermelon.

Peter, the creator of Planter, gives his fish red lettuce that has bolted. They love it!

Next time you’re out harvesting, see if anything sparks your pet’s interest.  Their favorite garden treat might surprise you!

Spinach

Considering spinach is often harvested for its tender baby leaves, it’s amazing just how cold-hardy it is. Depending on the conditions, spinach can still be going strong with minimal frost protection and snow on the ground! With added protection, some cold-climate gardeners are even able to overwinter spinach for harvests right through winter and into the following spring. Spinach is also a super fast-growing crop that can be ready to harvest in as little as 35 days- so even if you don’t feel like using season extension techniques you can still get a solid fall crop of spinach. And as the weather cools down there is less risk of your spinach bolting, meaning you can get a prolonged harvest if you only pick the outermost leaves. 

Kale

Kale is about as cold-hardy as plants come, which makes it a potential candidate for early fall sowing. That being said, like most every plant kale’s growth will slow to almost a standstill once the temperatures approach freezing. To get a fall (and potentially winter!) harvest of kale you’ll need at least 55 days for the plants to reach maturity. If you don’t have that long left in your growing season, you still have options to grow kale. You can look for pre-started kale transplants at your local garden center (although they might be hard to come by), or you can seed intensively and harvest baby kale leaves as a delicious delicacy!

Radishes

Radishes are a classic crop for fall planting as they grow so quickly and are also quite cold-hardy. Radishes can reach maturity in as little as 25 days, meaning you can keep on planting successions of radishes almost right to the bitter end of your growing season. Radishes grown in cooler, wetter weather can be less spicy than their summer-grown counterparts so if you’re not a fan of the typical radish bite you might like fall (and spring) grown radishes. If your radishes do not bulb up as your first frost date approaches you can also harvest them for their green tops, which can be cooked up in stir-fries and soups. If you’re after the radish greens you will want to pull your radishes before frost comes or otherwise use season extension techniques to protect them as the greens do tend to get droopy with the frost.

Lettuce

Lettuce is a semi-frost tolerant plant that grows at its best in cool-ish temperatures. If you grow loose-leaf lettuce as a cut-and-come-again crop, rather than aiming for a full-sized lettuce head, you will be able to harvest your lettuce much earlier. Ideally, look for lettuce varieties that are more cold-hardy and well-suited for late-season planting. While lettuce can handle a light frost, if a nighttime frost is in the forecast you may still want to temporarily cover your lettuce with row cover, plastic, bedsheets, or towels, as a preventative measure. Even if frost doesn’t take out the plant entirely, frost damage on the leaves can render them inedible.

Arugula

Arugula is a rather spicy green that may not appeal to everyone, but if you can handle its peppery punch it is a prime candidate for fall planting. Arugula can reach maturity in as little as 28 days and the seeds can germinate in cool soil. Like lettuce, arugula is semi-tolerant of frost- so you may want to err on the side of caution and cover it up if frost is in the forecast. Cut or pick just the outermost leaves of the arugula, leaving the growing crown intact, to keep the harvests going. Arugula is much less likely to bolt in the cooler weather, so you may be able to harvest it continuously until a freeze takes it out!

Bok choy

Bok choy, also known as pac choi or chinese cabbage, is a frost tolerant member of the brassica family that is a delicious addition in stir fries, soups, and noodle dishes. Some varieties of bok choy can be ready to harvest in as little as 30 days, but many can take 45-60 days– so be careful to select a variety that will be able to reach maturity in the remainder of your growing season. If your bok choy doesn’t quite reach full size by the time heavy frosts set in, you can still harvest it on the smaller side as ‘baby bok choy’.

Hakurei turnips

While the larger, standard grocery store turnips are typically slow-growing plants that take their time to mature, there are smaller ‘hakurei salad turnip’ varieties available that can be ready to harvest in as little as 35 days! Hakurei turnips are frost tolerant, and although the greens may take a beating with heavier frosts the roots will remain sweet, juicy, and crisp- just be sure to get them out of the ground before a hard freeze sets in. Or, like radish, if the roots don’t end up reaching full size you can at least use the tops to cook with. Hakurei turnips add nice variety to a late-season harvest that can often be mostly greens.

While the end of summer can be bittersweet, in the garden it’s the perfect time to get some new crops growing! Take advantage of the more comfortable temperatures to get outside and plant a fresh round of veggies for late-fall harvests!

Below are some common veggie crops that typically mature quickly enough to start from seed in midsummer and still get a solid harvest by season’s end!

Beets

Beets are an excellent crop to seed in summer and grow into fall. Beets are sturdy plants that can grow in the heat but will also appreciate cooler fall temperatures, and they’re typically ready to harvest in 55-70 days. Don’t feel constrained to just growing plain old purple beets- there are beautiful golden, white, and ‘candy cane’ (pink-and-white striped) varieties that add visual interest in the garden and the kitchen! For beet growing tips be sure to check out Grow Great Root Vegetables.

Chard

Chard is a beet relative that is usually grown for its large, spinach-like leaves. Chard performs well in spite of the summer’s heat, and it can also handle some seriously cold temperatures. Chard typically matures in 40-60 days which means for many gardeners a midsummer planting will give ample time to reach maturity and continue to produce a harvest well into fall and even early winter. Harvest only the outermost chard leaves and it will keep on growing and producing harvests for weeks to come.

Beans

Beans might be a surprising candidate for summer sowing, but they’re a quick-growing crop that does very well planted in midsummer for early fall harvests. Bush beans tend to mature faster than pole beans, so if your growing season is waning make sure to look for a faster-growing bush bean variety. Beans are a warm season crop that prefers full sun, so be sure to plant them in a sunny spot that will also receive maximum warmth as fall approaches. When cooler nights start to roll in you can use season extension techniques to keep your beans producing just a little while longer.

Lettuce

While lettuce does not at all enjoy the heat of summer, it’s good to plan for multiple plantings of lettuce throughout the growing season (this is called succession sowing). Lettuce is generally a quick-growing crop, especially if you are growing it as cut-and-come-again lettuce rather than full lettuce heads. Lettuce planted in the summer may need a little TLC to produce a harvest. Shade cloth can help block out too much searing heat from the sun, and consistent watering can help to avoid stress to the plant that could accelerate bolting. And once cooler temperatures hit, your lettuce crop will be even more prolific!

Carrots

Carrots might seem like a plant-once-and-done crop, but there can be a massive difference in the days to maturity depending on the variety. ‘Early’ carrot varieties can be ready to harvest in as little as 50 days, whereas more substantial storage varieties can take up to 120 days to mature! So be sure to select carrot varieties for summer sowing carefully. Carrots can be tricky to germinate, and summer’s heat does not help matters. Water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist after sowing carrots- some gardeners even put down a piece of plywood over the soil to hold in moisture (be sure to check for germination every day if you go this route!)

Cilantro

Cilantro is possibly one of the most bolt-prone crops around, which means the only way to be able to keep harvesting it for fresh summertime salsas is to keep on planting it! Keep watering and harvesting your cilantro regularly especially in summer to try to stave off bolting as long as possible. Cilantro that does flower helps to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects that can help your summer crops along– if you have enough space just leave the flowered plants in and plant a new round. You can also easily save seed from cilantro for upcoming plantings!

Radishes 

Radishes are an excellent crop to sow midsummer (or almost anytime, really) as they grow  extremely quickly. Radishes can reach maturity in as little as 25 days, and their compact size means that they can be tucked into almost any garden space that frees up as spring and summer crops kick the bucket. And if your radishes happen to bolt before you get a chance to harvest them you can always let them continue growing- the green seed pods are edible (and delicious!) Then plant a whole new wave of radishes!

This is just a small sampling of our favorite crops to plant in summer- there are many more summer sowing possibilities to explore. Don’t let your garden dwindle down to just tomatoes and peppers as the season wears on- sow a fresh round of summer crops for full garden beds and abundant harvests!

Do all veggie plants need full sun?

For the most part, vegetable plants grow and produce best in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day). Veggie plants need ample sun to be able to photosynthesize and grow as quickly as possible- a lack of sun may not outright kill them but it can severely stunt their growth. But there are some plants that will still produce a respectable harvest in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun per day). Gardening successfully in part shade comes down to being selective about what you choose to grow and having realistic expectations about how much you’ll be able to harvest.

If your potential garden location is in near total shade and gets only a few hours of sun each day, you may want to skip down the Alternatives to gardening in part shade section of this article. While you can certainly have fun experimenting with growing edible plants in shade (you might even discover some non-traditional edible plants that grow well in shade), you’ll likely only be able to muster up a meager harvest.

Veggie plants to grow in part shade

Lettuce and leafy greens

Lettuce and other leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are star performers in the shade. Growing them in part shade can even have some benefits, as blazing summer sun can contribute to them bolting. To get the plants off to a good start you may want to consider starting them indoors then transplanting out to the shadier parts of your garden. It can be challenging to get lettuce to form full-sized heads in part-shade, but you can certainly harvest it as cut-and-come-again lettuce.

Green onions and chives

‘Bulbing onions’ require full sun to form their large, edible bulbs, however green onions and chives are excellent shady garden plants because they are primarily harvested for their slender, pungent greens. While they will produce best in full sun, you can tuck them into shady spots and still harvest enough to make the effort worthwhile. To learn more about growing these and other allium-family crops be sure to check out Grow Amazing Alliums.

Radishes

By now you might be noticing a theme with shady-garden plant picks: they tend to be green and leafy. Radishes can add a nice burst of color to an otherwise monotone shady salad garden. Radishes can still form nice-sized roots when grown in part shade- although it might take longer than usual for the bulbs to form. Be careful not to use too much high-nitrogen fertilizer where you plant radishes, as this will stimulate them to form lush leafy tops and tiny roots. If this does happen all is not lost- radish greens are edible too!

Beets

Like radishes, beets are another root crop that can be grown in partial shade. The roots of shade-grown beets will likely be smaller than their full-sun counterparts, but you can always roast them whole and just call them ultra-gourmet baby beets. Don’t leave beets in the ground for an excessively long time hoping that massive roots will form- they might just turn woody and tough instead. Beet greens are also totally delicious in salads or sauteed, so if you do find the bulbs are too diminutive the greens will not disappoint!

Brassicas (such as broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale)

Brassicas can be grown in part-shade locations- but they must receive at minimum 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. If your location has dappled sun throughout the day, you may want to avoid growing brassicas there. Because brassicas, like leafy greens, are prone to bolting under stress caused by heat and drought, growing them in shade may help to delay this. Patience is key as brassicas are already slow-growing crops and they will grow even more slowly in the shade. You likely will not be able to get super-sized heads to form on your broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, but it’s at least possible to grow small, tender heads. Start brassicas indoors to give them the best possible chance to grow and reach maturity in the shade.

Peas

While peas perform best when in full sun, you can still get a harvest if they’re planted in part shade. You might even be able to trellis your climbing peas so that the plants are able to climb out of the shade to reach more sun. It is important to plant your peas with enough time for them to reach maturity before the summer heat comes. While partial shade will help keep them cooler for longer, eventually they will stop flowering and producing peas in the summer’s heat. For more info on growing peas, check out Grow Awesome Legumes.

Certain herbs (such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley)

While Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and oregano prefer full sun and soil on the drier side, other herbs such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley don’t mind a bit of shade. The shade will help keep the soil moist and will help delay bolting. Trim (and cook with!) herbs planted in part-shade regularly to help keep the plants bushy and compact. And a special warning about mint: be sure to plant it in a container to keep it from spreading prolifically.

Alternatives to gardening in the shade

Container gardening

While your yard might be submerged in shade, perhaps there’s a sunny spot on a deck or front porch that could be a great spot to grow veggies in containers. Virtually every type of veggie can be grown in a container provided the container is large enough for the crop, and you water and fertilize regularly to keep the growing medium moist and full of nutrients. Containers can also be moved around as needed to capture the most amount of sun available as the sun’s angle changes.

Rent a community garden plot

If your house is in the middle of the deep woods your best bet for getting a sizable garden harvest could be to rent a plot at your local community garden. Community garden plots are typically very inexpensive to rent for an entire season and will let you grow sun-loving veggies much more successfully. If you garden in a community plot be sure to set reminders to water your garden when the weather’s hot and dry, as you won’t be able to check the state of your plants as easily as in a backyard garden.

Garden with neighbors and friends

If your neighbors and/or friends have unused backyard space that gets full sun exposure, try striking up a deal with them! If they let you use the space for gardening you can bestow them with tasty garden-grown produce throughout the season. If your friends happen to be gardening enthusiasts all the better- you can share the work, share knowledge, and share the reward!

Don’t let the semi-shaded parts of your garden be nothing more than wasted space. Maximize your harvests by growing some of these shade-tolerant plants and saving the full-sun spaces for sun-loving crops. Every harvest you can get from a shady space is a gardening win!

How to harvest, and when to harvest, will vary for different crops:

How to harvest tomatoes

Tomatoes can usually be harvested by carefully snapping them off the plant- stabilizing the branch in one hand and gently pulling on the tomato with the other. In many cases the tomatoes will easily separate from the vine, although some varieties have sturdier stems than others. If you feel any resistance, or just want to be cautious, opt for fine-tipped pruning shears to cut the tomato free. If you use shears, it’s a good idea to sanitize them with rubbing alcohol when moving from plant to plant to prevent disease spread.

To decide when to harvest your tomatoes, there are some trade-offs between flavor and productivity to think about:

Tomatoes can be harvested when they are fully ripe. A tomato is fully ripe when it has reached the full-grown size and deepest possible color expected for the variety. To recall what size and color your tomatoes should be, use Planter to keep track of which tomato varieties grow where in your garden:

Many people believe that leaving tomatoes to fully ripen on the plant gives them the best flavor. But leaving tomatoes on the plant to ripen can have some drawbacks. First, the plant may produce less tomatoes overall as it continues to put some of its energy into the ripening fruit. Second, tomatoes left on the plant longer have a higher chance of being attacked by bugs or birds, or falling off and rotting. Or, sometimes you just need to get tomatoes off the plant as frost approaches.

As soon as tomatoes just barely start to change color from green to yellow, pink, or red*, they will be able to continue ripening off the plant. This is called the ‘breaker stage’ of ripeness. After harvesting, leave the tomatoes on the counter in a paper bag to ripen fully (do not put them in the fridge!) You can be the judge of whether tomatoes ripened this way have a noticeable flavor difference compared to those ripened on the plant!

*Green tomato varieties are an exception- you’ll need to gently squeeze the tomato to tell if it’s ripe. Ripe tomatoes should give slightly when squeezed; if it’s rock hard it’s not ripe yet.

How to harvest squash

How and when to harvest squash depends on whether you are dealing with summer squash, such as zucchini or pattypan, or winter squash, such as butternut or acorn squash. Summer squash can be gently twisted off the plant, but with this technique there is some risk of damaging the squash or the plant. To avoid this, it’s recommended to carefully cut the squash off with a knife, leaving about 1” of the stem on the squash.

Summer squash should be harvested as soon as the fruits reach the expected size for their variety. Once your summer squash plants start producing be sure to check the plant every few days for fruits that are ready to be harvested. Frequent harvesting will encourage the plant to keep on producing, and will help ensure the squash get picked before they become too large, tough, and seedy.

Winter squash should be harvested once the squash has reached full size and the skin has toughened up. Test this by gently pressing a fingernail into the skin - it should not puncture easily. When harvesting winter squash keep a 2” stem attached to the squash- keeping a bit of stem attached will help the squash last in storage.

How to harvest lettuce

There are two main approaches to harvesting lettuce. With lettuce varieties that produce a head, such as romaine or Boston, usually the entire plant is harvested once a sizable, firm head has formed. To harvest a lettuce head, gently tilt the plant to the side so the stem is visible and cut it underneath the leaves.

The other harvesting technique that can be used for lettuce is called ‘cut-and-come-again’, where only some leaves are removed from the plant at a time, leaving most of the plant intact to keep growing. Cut-and-come-again harvesting is typically used with “loose leaf” lettuce varieties. Cut-and-come-again harvesting can be done by cutting or plucking the lower (oldest) leaves off as close as possible to the stem, leaving the upper (newer) leaves intact. It’s also possible to slice leaves off by cutting across the top few inches of the plant. While slicing crosswise is faster than removing individual leaves, it can be easy to sever the growing stem- stunting or killing the plant.

With either technique, be on the lookout for bolting which can cause your lettuce plants to turn unappetizingly bitter.

How to harvest peas and beans

When harvesting peas and beans, be careful not to yank on the plants as the stems can easily snap. Secure the plant in one hand and pull off pods with the other, ideally keeping a small piece of stem on the pod.

The trick with beans and peas is knowing when they are ready to be picked. There can be a fine line between not-ready-yet and too-far-gone, depending on the type of peas and beans you grow:

• For garden peas, the peas should be fully mature but still sweet. Snap peas should be harvested when the pods are tender and the peas inside are round and sweet. Snow peas are harvested when the pods are full-size but still flat.
• Snap beans should be harvested when the pods are full-size and the beans inside are not too mature and round. Shelling beans can be harvested when the beans inside have reached maturity but are still soft.
• If you are growing a drying-type pea or bean, things are a little bit easier- harvest when the pods are fully dry.

Harvest time is an exciting time in the garden; it’s the culmination of all the time and care you put into your plants. Following good harvest practices ensures you’ll get the best results for your efforts- veggies picked at their prime, and plants that keep on producing!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

What is bolting?

When a plant bolts it focuses all its energy on producing flowers and seeds, instead of growing new, lush leaves or larger roots. When a plant starts to bolt it sends up a thick, tough stem with feathery leaves- the flowers and seeds will form on this stem. Plants affected by bolting include: leafy greens and herbs such as lettuces and cilantro, radishes, beets, spinach, cabbages, onions, and carrots. With crops that produce fruits, like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers, we don’t refer to the flowering and fruiting process as bolting.

Producing flowers and seeds is a natural part of a plant’s life cycle. But what actually triggers plants to bolt? There are many factors that can signal plants to start bolting including temperature changes, changes in daylight hours, and stress from a lack of water or nutrients. Bolting is often blamed on warming temperatures as the growing season progresses, but in many cases it is cooler temperatures early in the plant’s growth as well as changes in daylight hours that contribute to bolting (yes, your plants are counting the hours of daylight!) Different plants will have specific temperature and daylight conditions that trigger them to bolt.

Why is it ‘bad’ when plants bolt?

While bolting for plants is totally normal, for gardeners it can be undesirable. When plants bolt, the parts of the plant we typically eat become unappetizing. With leafy greens, bolting causes the leaves to become extremely bitter and the plant will stop putting on new leaves. With root vegetables, the roots will stop swelling and can become tough and woody.

Bolting isn’t all bad news for us gardeners, though! While we usually want our crops to have tender greens and large roots, bolted plants have their benefits too:

• The flowers will help attract much-needed pollinators to your garden.
• Some bolted plants have delicious, edible seed pods that are hard to come by in stores! Bolted radishes will produce edible green pods that have a mild radish flavor. Bolted cilantro plants produce coriander seeds - which can be dried and used as a spice, but they are also delicious to eat while still green.
• If you are growing heirloom varieties, you can save the seeds for future planting.

But what if I want to delay bolting?

Not convinced about those radish pods? Still want to grow fresh lettuce mid-season? While bolting can’t be avoided outright, there are ways to stave it off:

• Use shade to your advantage: while most garden plants need full sun, many of the crops that tend to bolt, such as lettuce, can grow in part-shade. Planting bolt-prone crops in shadier locations can help to delay bolting significantly.
• Ensure the plant has sufficient moisture and nutrients. A stressed plant will tend to hasten flowering and seed production.
• Regular harvesting of the outer (oldest) leaves of leafy vegetables and herbs can help encourage the plant to keep producing new leaves. Some leafy crops can be harvested by hand but for a delicate job you may want to use fine-tipped pruning shears.

• For some plants, such as basil, snipping off flower stalks as soon as they appear can encourage the plant to keep on growing leaves. For others, like lettuce, unfortunately this will have little effect as the leaves will already be turning bitter.
• Succession planting can help to ensure consistent harvests of plants that have not yet bolted.
• There are also bolt-resistant plant varieties available: look for terms like ‘bolt-resistant’, ‘slobolt’, and ‘boltardy’ on the seed packet.

Despite your best efforts, at some point your bolt-prone plants will go to seed. When this happens you can pull the plants up and compost them to add nutrients back to your soil. Or, leave them to do their thing and enjoy the crop in a new way!

What are Cold-Hardy Crops?

There are several cold-hardy crops that will grow in cooler temperatures and can withstand a mild frost or even a freeze. These plants are typically divided into two groups - semi-hardy which can tolerate a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and hardy which can tolerate heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). Not only do these plants withstand the colder temperatures, they actually grow best in the cooler weather.

Examples of semi-hardy crops include: carrots, beets, lettuce, cilantro, and peas.

Examples of hardy crops include: kale, spinach, garlic, chives, and parsley.

Use Planter to identify cool season plants that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant to frost! Select a plant and refer to the Season and Frost cards under Quick Info:

Note that cold-hardy crops are not to be confused with cole crops. Cole crops are members of the brassica family specifically- and while they do love the cold - they are just one family out of many that happen to enjoy cold weather.

When to Plant

Knowing when to plant cold-hardy crops can be tricky. Obviously, the ground should be workable. Aside from this how do you know when it is safe to plant? As a first step, check the Growing Calendar in Planter, to see when the crops you are interested in planting can be sown (or transplanted) outdoors in your area.

It’s a good idea to use a soil thermometer to measure the ground temperature to ensure it is warm enough for seeds to germinate. Seeds that are planted in soil that is too cold for them to germinate will absorb water without germinating, which leaves them susceptible to rot. Research the ideal soil temperatures to germinate the crops you are planning to grow.

Even if the ground is warm enough to plant, there is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate! There may still be a risk of extreme weather that could potentially kill off even the most hardy crops. To help avoid this, mulch the plants generously to protect them from the elements. Cover plants with plastic sheets or cloches if severe cold rolls in. Also, sow regular successions (‘waves’) of crops. If some plants do perish in the harsh spring conditions, planting in succession helps ensure there will be new plants growing up not far behind.

Caring for Cold Hardy Crops

Prior to planting cool season crops, prepare the bed by working in compost and a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer. Depending on the crop, you may need to re-apply fertilizer every several weeks.

Although it may not be warm out, still be on the lookout for dry conditions. If there isn’t enough rainfall, provide sufficient water to keep the ground consistently moist

Take full advantage of the early spring growing season - don’t miss out on delicious harvests of cold-hardy crops!