So here’s my little attempt to get you just as excited about frost as I am.

1. Frost Helps Fight Pests and Diseases

When the temperature drops, frost kills many tiny pests and fungi that hide in the soil or on plants. Aphids, beetles, and fungal spores often can’t survive the cold. This means fewer bugs and less disease next spring! 

2. Frost Improves the Soil

When moist soil freezes during a frost, the water inside expands. That gentle push breaks apart hard clumps, making the soil looser and easier for roots to grow in. This process (called frost heaving) also helps water drain better. In our market garden, where we try to disturb the soil as little as possible, this natural loosening is a real gift. Nature is kind of doing the digging for us, from the inside.

3. Frost Makes Vegetables Sweeter

If I ever have to choose a last meal, there better be a carrot that’s seen a frost on the plate. Cold weather makes plants like carrots, parsnips, kale, and Brussels sprouts turn some of their starch into sugar, their natural way of surviving the cold. This, lucky for us, makes them taste sweeter. Win–win!

5. Frost Helps Break Down Old Plants

Frost helps crumble old leaves and garden waste, which then turn into rich compost. This adds nutrients back into the soil, ready for new growth in spring.

6. Some Plants Love Frost!

Frost doesn’t mean gardening is over. Many hardy crops, like garlic, onions, spinach, and winter greens, actually like the cold. With the right planning, you can keep growing food even in the chilly months. Here’s some winter garden chores to look into! :)

7. Frost Gives the Garden (and You) a Break

If we’re honest with ourselves, isn’t it kind of magical that a growing season has an end to move toward? That moment when frost arrives and your plants slow down or stop altogether. It’s nature’s gentle reminder that you can do the same. Finally, there’s time to rest, plan, and dream about what’s next. To reflect on all that you’ve learned, harvested, and enjoyed. I wouldn’t want to miss that.

So next time frost visits your garden, don’t see her as the enemy. Wrap yourself in a warm sweater, make a cozy drink, and watch her work her magic. She’s not the end of the season, she’s the start of a new one.

It also made me think more deeply about what nourishes me. And if there’s one nutrient the world seems fixated on right now, it’s protein. Every other product at the supermarket screams “high-protein” or “protein-packed”, gym culture has practically rebranded it as a religion, and new research keeps surfacing about how essential it is for our health.  

This blog isn’t here to shame your protein powders or tell you to ditch your favorite snack bars, do what feels right for your body. But if you have access to a garden and want to add something amazing to both your nutrition and your soil, keep reading. 

Firstly, What is Protein?  

Let’s break it down. Protein is one of the three macronutrients your body needs in large amounts (the others being carbs and fats). It’s made up of building blocks called amino acids and these little molecules are what your body uses to: 

• Build and repair muscle, tissue, and skin 
• Produce enzymes and hormones 
• Power your immune system 
• Keep every single cell functioning properly 

So yeah, kind of a big deal! No wonder it’s talked about so much lately.  

Your body needs 20 different amino acids to function properly. It can make most of them on its own, but 9 are “essential”, meaning you have to get them through food. Animal proteins (like meat, eggs, and dairy) contain all 9 in one go, which is why they’re called complete proteins. Most plant-based sources don’t have the full set on their own, but that’s not a problem. Your body can combine amino acids from different plant foods throughout the day to get everything it needs. By eating a variety of beans, grains, nuts, and seeds, you can meet your protein needs fully from plants. In doing so, you’re not just nourishing your body: you’re also being gentler on the earth, lighter on the soil, and kinder to animals along the way. 

Disclaimer: this is supported by the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, which confirms that well-planned plant-based diets provide all the protein your body needs, at every life stage. 

What Counts as Protein in the Garden? 

When we talk about protein, we’re usually thinking beans (and beans are stars) but they’re not alone. Protein in plants comes from a whole cast of characters: 

• Legumes like peas, chickpeas, and lentils. They are also nitrogen fixation plants!  
• Seeds & grains like quinoa, amaranth, and peanuts 
• Nuts (if you’ve got the space!) 
• Leafy greens that chip in smaller amounts 

Some have complete proteins, others don’t but together they build a well-rounded cast for your diet.  

What to Grow, Where: Protein Crops by Climate Zone 

Whether you’re gardening in chilly Maine or sunbaked Arizona, there’s a protein-rich plant waiting to thrive in your zone. 

Cooler climates (USDA Zones 3–5)  

• Lentils – Hardy, drought-tolerant, and nutrient-dense. A great early-season crop in northern zones. 
• Fava Beans – One of the most cold-hardy legumes, with a rich, meaty flavor. Best planted in early spring or fall. 
• Quinoa – A complete protein and gluten-free seed often treated like a grain. Grows well in cooler, drier climates. Short-season varieties like Cherry Vanilla are ideal for Zones 4–5. 
• Kale & Spinach – While not high-protein (about 3g per cooked cup), they add valuable nutrients and support overall protein intake. 
• Peas – Cool-weather champs. Snap, snow, or shelling varieties are easy to grow

Temperate climates (USDA Zones 6–8) 

• Soybeans (Edamame) – Thrive in warm summers and are rich in complete protein (~17g per cooked cup). Harvest young for edamame. 

• Chickpeas (Garbanzo Beans) – Prefer hot, dry summers and well-drained soil. Protein-rich (~15g per cooked cup) and good for small-scale growers. 

• Runner Beans – Heat-tolerant, vining, and beautiful. High yields and moderate protein (~13g per cooked cup). 

• Sunflower Seeds – Grown for seeds, not the flower! ~6g of protein per ¼ cup shelled seeds. Full sun and space to grow tall. 

• Amaranth – Both the leaves (protein-rich greens) and seeds (complete protein) are edible. Adaptable and ornamental. 

  

Warm climates (USDA Zones 9–11) 

• Pigeon Peas – Perennial in the tropics, annual in mild climates. Popular in Caribbean, African, and Indian cooking. Great nitrogen fixer. 
• Moringa – Fast-growing tree with edible leaves high in protein (~2–3g per 100g fresh). Also rich in vitamins and minerals. 
• Peanuts – Technically a legume, not a nut! Grows well in sandy, well-drained soil. ~25g protein per cup (roasted). 
• Sesame – Grown for its oil-rich, high-protein seeds (~5g per tablespoon). Needs a long, hot growing season. 
• Cowpeas (Black-eyed peas) – Extremely drought-tolerant and thrive in heat. ~13g protein per cooked cup. 

Backyard Protein Hacks 

• Go vertical: Beans and peas love to climb. Save space with trellises or garden arches. 
• Mix it up: Try the Three Sisters method. Corn, beans, and squash grown together to support each other. 
• Let it dry: For storage crops like lentils or chickpeas, leave pods to dry on the plant before harvesting. 
• Save seeds: Dry beans and grains store well all year and can be replanted. 

Bonus fact: Many legumes, including soybeans, chickpeas, peas, lentils, and fava beans, are nitrogen-fixers. That means they work with bacteria in the soil to pull nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form plants can use. This natural fertilization reduces the need for synthetic nitrogen fertilizers, which are energy-intensive to produce and can pollute water systems!  

Start small, experiment wildly, and celebrate the fact that your dinner might start from a single sprout. 

And hey, if you name your soybean plant “Beanoncé,” we fully support that.

It’s mid-July, and the breeze here in the mountains feels like a warm hug. Most folks are busy harvesting courgettes the size of baguettes and, no doubt, cursing their once-again runaway mint. I’m standing in my garden with a fresh cup of (yes, mint) tea and a question: What do I want to eat in the fall?

Because while summer is in full swing, this is actually the secret season to sow again. Gardening either keeps you fully in the moment or shoots your brain a few months into the future. That’s part of the deal, I guess. Especially up here at 900 meters altitude (zone 6-ish), where autumn comes with a whisper… and then a frost. No time in between.

So I thought I’d take you along. Let’s chat about what you can still plant now, and which crops are worth your time to make sure there’s still some harvest joy in the fall.

Let’s Talk About Frost, Baby

As we tiptoe toward fall, it’s a great time to start plotting your autumn garden. For an overview of the types of crops that are generally best suited for a fall garden, and how Planter can help you to double check the timing, have a read of the article: Don’t Forget Your Fall Garden.

One of my favorite newer(ish) Planter features? In the settings tab, Planter shows a countdown to your first expected fall frost, like a tiny ticking clock for gardeners. Super useful for figuring out what you can still grow in time… and also mildly panic-inducing (in the best way). Here’s mine:

My Fall Planting Picks

Ideally, I want to plant everything, have maximum diversity, and eat 23 different crunchy things in my salad bowls. But sometimes, less really is more. Expanding gradually keeps gardening fun and avoids unnecessary stress on both your soil and your (possibly receding) hairline.

With the internet offering a bazillion planting guides (plus whatever gardening books you’ve got lying around), there’s no shortage of info. For this round, I’m keeping it simple and using the Planter app to guide my choices. It already knows my local frost dates, and I love that you can filter for things like frost-tolerant crops or perennials. The Growing Calendar shows which crops you can still plant, and how much time you’ve got left to do it.

So, without further rambling… 

Here are some of the fast-growing cool-season crops I’ve chosen for an abundant fall harvest in the mountains!

1. Mâche (Lamb’s Lettuce). The absolute fall classic in Germany. To not plant it? Unthinkable.

2. Kohlrabi (early varieties). Great raw or marinated as veggie “kebab.”

3. Spinach. Always good. Especially the cold-hardy types.

4. Cilantro. Yes, even now! It handles light frost just fine.

5. Kale. Might be a bit late, but I’m giving it a go for baby leaves (and planning a perennial kale tree next year!).

6. Mustard greens. Spicy when young, flavorful when cooked.

7. Carrots. Early varieties still make it if you plant now.

8. Radishes. Because color + crunch = salad joy.

9. Bok Choy. Quick to grow, great for stir-fries.

10. Wasabi Arugula. Want to keep it mild? Use young baby leaves. Want it spicier? Let the leaves get bigger or use the flower buds, they’re often even punchier.

A few slow-burners I’m adding anyway.  These won’t feed me this year, but they’re future-you gold:

• Black salsify (Scorzonera ‘Duplex’). Beautiful, weird, delicious root native to Europe.
• Garlic. Usually planted in mid-to-late October, but I might prep beds now and sneak in a little green garlic (early-harvested cloves).
• Chives. Super hardy, great for pollinators, and the purple flowers are edible too.
• Echinacea (Coneflower). Slow to establish, but gorgeous and medicinal.
• Rhubarb. If you’re feeling bold and patient (it’s worth it). 

What to Keep in Mind When Planting Now

1. Choose fast-growing or frost-tolerant crops Look for varieties that mature in 60 days or less, or that can handle light frost.
2. Sow directly in the soil Depending on where you live, it might too late for longer-growing transplants unless you’ve already got them ready. To be safe, I’m going with direct sowing only.
3. Germination can be tricky in summer heat Sow in the evening, water well, and consider adding light shade over freshly seeded areas to keep the soil cool.
4. Keep watering consistent Seeds and young plants need steady moisture, especially during warm July days.
5. Don’t overdo it It’s easy to get excited (hello, seed hoarders), but keep it simple and realistic to avoid overwhelm. Think: joy, not stress.

So there you have it, one last hurrah for the garden before the frost moves in.

Go sow something. Go be smug in October. You’ve got this.

Why Cold-Hardy Veggies?

Cold-hardy vegetables are a special group of plants that can handle chilly temperatures and even a touch of frost. These tough veggies are perfect for planting in the fall and winter, allowing you to extend your growing season and enjoy homegrown goodness even when the weather isn’t exactly balmy. Use the Planter App to identify cold hardy veggies that can handle a light frost or in some cases even a freeze!

Our Top 10 Picks for Your Winter Garden

Kale

This leafy green superstar is packed with nutrients and comes in a variety of colors and textures. Kale prefers well-drained soil and a spot with plenty of sunshine. Give it regular waterings, and you’ll be enjoying delicious salads and smoothies all winter long.

Varieties: ‘Lacinato’ (Dinosaur Kale): This variety has dark blue-green leaves with a savoyed (ruffled) texture. It’s known for its slightly sweeter flavor compared to other kales.

‘Red Russian’ Kale: This variety has red stems and purplish-green leaves with a milder, sweeter flavor. It’s also very ornamental!

‘Winterbor’ Kale: This variety is extremely cold-hardy, as the name suggests, and can tolerate temperatures down to -10°F. It has a slightly sweeter and more tender texture than other kales.

Spinach

Another nutritional powerhouse, spinach is a fast-growing cool-season crop. Like kale, it prefers full sun and well-drained soil. You can start harvesting baby spinach leaves in just a few weeks!

Varieties:

‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ Spinach: A classic variety that’s slow to bolt (go to seed) and produces large, dark green leaves.

‘Space’ Spinach: This variety is resistant to downy mildew and produces baby spinach leaves that are perfect for salads.

‘Tyee’ Spinach: This variety is known for its high yields and resistance to bolting, making it a great choice for the Southeast.

Radishes

These little root vegetables are super easy to grow and add a peppery crunch to salads and sandwiches. Radishes prefer loose, sandy soil and mature in about a month.

Varieties:

‘Cherry Belle’ Radish: A popular variety that matures quickly (in about 22 days) and produces round, red roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor.

‘French Breakfast’ Radish: This variety has elongated, red roots with white tips and a slightly spicy flavor.

‘White Icicle’ Radish: This variety has long, white roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor. It’s also slower to bolt than other radishes.

Carrots

Believe it or not, carrots actually sweeten in flavor when grown in cool weather. Choose a variety with short roots for best results in the winter garden. Make sure your soil is loose and free of rocks to allow for proper root development.

Varieties:

‘Danvers Half Long’ Carrot: A classic variety that’s well-suited for heavy soils and produces medium-length, sweet roots.

‘Little Finger’ Carrot: This variety is perfect for the Southeast’s shorter growing season, as it matures quickly and produces small, tender roots.

‘Paris Market’ Carrot: This variety produces round, bite-sized roots that are perfect for snacking or roasting.

Lettuce

Enjoy fresh salads all winter long by planting cold-hardy lettuce varieties. Loose-leaf lettuce is a great option for beginners, as it can be harvested continuously. Provide your lettuce with partial shade and consistent moisture.

Varieties:

‘Black Seeded Simpson’ Lettuce: A popular loose-leaf variety with bright green, ruffled leaves and a mild flavor.

‘Winter Density’ Lettuce: This romaine lettuce variety is cold-hardy and can tolerate some frost. It has crisp, dark green leaves.

‘Red Sails’ Lettuce: This loose-leaf variety has beautiful red leaves with a mild flavor and adds a pop of color to salads.

Onions

Onions are a kitchen staple, and many varieties can be planted in the fall for a spring harvest. Choose onion sets or transplants for easiest planting. Onions need full sun and well-drained soil. Short-day onions grow best in mild winter climates, such as zone 7 or warmer.

Varieties:

‘Yellow Granex’ Onion (Vidalia): This variety is a favorite in the Southeast and produces large, sweet onions.

‘Red Creole’ Onion: This variety is known for its pungent flavor and beautiful red color.

‘White Bermuda’ Onion: This variety produces large, mild onions that are great for slicing.

Garlic

Plant garlic cloves in the fall, and you’ll be rewarded with flavorful bulbs in the spring. Garlic prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Don’t forget to mulch around your garlic plants to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Varieties:

‘Silverskin’ Garlic: This softneck variety is well-suited for the Southeast and produces large bulbs with a strong flavor.

‘Inchelium Red’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its rich, complex flavor and beautiful purple stripes.

‘Spanish Roja’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its robust flavor and long storage life.

Turnips

Both the roots and greens of turnips are edible, making them a versatile addition to your winter garden. Turnips prefer full sun and loose, fertile soil. They’re also relatively fast-growing, maturing in about two months.

Varieties:

‘Purple Top White Globe’ Turnip: A classic variety with a purple top and white flesh. It has a mild, sweet flavor.

‘Hakurei’ Turnip: This Japanese variety has a sweet, delicate flavor and can be eaten raw or cooked.

‘Seven Top’ Turnip: This variety is grown primarily for its greens, which have a mild, spinach-like flavor.

Peas

Enjoy sweet, tender peas by planting them in the fall. Choose a variety that’s specifically bred for cool weather. Peas need full sun and something to climb on, like a trellis or fence.

Varieties:

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ Pea: This snow pea variety is cold-tolerant and produces sweet, edible pods.

‘Wando’ Pea: This garden pea variety is heat- and cold-tolerant, making it a good choice for the Southeast.

‘Maestro’ Pea: This shelling pea variety is known for its high yields and sweet flavor.

Swiss Chard

This colorful leafy green is a close relative of spinach and beets. It’s packed with vitamins and minerals and can be used in a variety of dishes. Swiss chard prefers full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.

Varieties:

‘Bright Lights’ Swiss Chard: This variety has colorful stems in shades of red, pink, orange, and yellow, making it a beautiful addition to the garden.

‘Lucullus’ Swiss Chard: This variety has white stems and dark green leaves with a slightly savoyed texture.

‘Rhubarb Chard’ Swiss Chard: This variety has red stems and green leaves with a slightly tart flavor.

Additional Tips for Winter Gardening

Even though these veggies are tough, they can still use a little extra TLC during the colder months. Here are a few tips to help your winter garden thrive:

• Frost Protection: While these veggies can handle some cold, a hard frost can still damage them. If a freeze is predicted, protect your plants by covering them with a row cover or blanket overnight.
• Water Wisely: Plants need less water in the winter, so don’t over do it. Water deeply but less frequently, and make sure the soil has good drainage to prevent soggy roots.
• Feed Your Soil: Healthy soil means healthy plants! Amend your soil with compost or other organic matter to provide nutrients and improve drainage.
• Sunlight is Key: Even in winter, most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Choose a sunny spot for your garden, and be mindful of shadows cast by buildings or trees.

Ready to enjoy fresh, homegrown veggies all winter long? By planting these cold-hardy varieties now, you can extend your harvest and savor the flavors of the season. Imagine the satisfaction of serving up a salad made with ingredients you grew yourself, even in the depths of winter!

Don’t forget to download the Planter App for more winter gardening tips, tricks, and personalized advice. Happy growing!

Spinach

Considering spinach is often harvested for its tender baby leaves, it’s amazing just how cold-hardy it is. Depending on the conditions, spinach can still be going strong with minimal frost protection and snow on the ground! With added protection, some cold-climate gardeners are even able to overwinter spinach for harvests right through winter and into the following spring. Spinach is also a super fast-growing crop that can be ready to harvest in as little as 35 days- so even if you don’t feel like using season extension techniques you can still get a solid fall crop of spinach. And as the weather cools down there is less risk of your spinach bolting, meaning you can get a prolonged harvest if you only pick the outermost leaves. 

Kale

Kale is about as cold-hardy as plants come, which makes it a potential candidate for early fall sowing. That being said, like most every plant kale’s growth will slow to almost a standstill once the temperatures approach freezing. To get a fall (and potentially winter!) harvest of kale you’ll need at least 55 days for the plants to reach maturity. If you don’t have that long left in your growing season, you still have options to grow kale. You can look for pre-started kale transplants at your local garden center (although they might be hard to come by), or you can seed intensively and harvest baby kale leaves as a delicious delicacy!

Radishes

Radishes are a classic crop for fall planting as they grow so quickly and are also quite cold-hardy. Radishes can reach maturity in as little as 25 days, meaning you can keep on planting successions of radishes almost right to the bitter end of your growing season. Radishes grown in cooler, wetter weather can be less spicy than their summer-grown counterparts so if you’re not a fan of the typical radish bite you might like fall (and spring) grown radishes. If your radishes do not bulb up as your first frost date approaches you can also harvest them for their green tops, which can be cooked up in stir-fries and soups. If you’re after the radish greens you will want to pull your radishes before frost comes or otherwise use season extension techniques to protect them as the greens do tend to get droopy with the frost.

Lettuce

Lettuce is a semi-frost tolerant plant that grows at its best in cool-ish temperatures. If you grow loose-leaf lettuce as a cut-and-come-again crop, rather than aiming for a full-sized lettuce head, you will be able to harvest your lettuce much earlier. Ideally, look for lettuce varieties that are more cold-hardy and well-suited for late-season planting. While lettuce can handle a light frost, if a nighttime frost is in the forecast you may still want to temporarily cover your lettuce with row cover, plastic, bedsheets, or towels, as a preventative measure. Even if frost doesn’t take out the plant entirely, frost damage on the leaves can render them inedible.

Arugula

Arugula is a rather spicy green that may not appeal to everyone, but if you can handle its peppery punch it is a prime candidate for fall planting. Arugula can reach maturity in as little as 28 days and the seeds can germinate in cool soil. Like lettuce, arugula is semi-tolerant of frost- so you may want to err on the side of caution and cover it up if frost is in the forecast. Cut or pick just the outermost leaves of the arugula, leaving the growing crown intact, to keep the harvests going. Arugula is much less likely to bolt in the cooler weather, so you may be able to harvest it continuously until a freeze takes it out!

Bok choy

Bok choy, also known as pac choi or chinese cabbage, is a frost tolerant member of the brassica family that is a delicious addition in stir fries, soups, and noodle dishes. Some varieties of bok choy can be ready to harvest in as little as 30 days, but many can take 45-60 days– so be careful to select a variety that will be able to reach maturity in the remainder of your growing season. If your bok choy doesn’t quite reach full size by the time heavy frosts set in, you can still harvest it on the smaller side as ‘baby bok choy’.

Hakurei turnips

While the larger, standard grocery store turnips are typically slow-growing plants that take their time to mature, there are smaller ‘hakurei salad turnip’ varieties available that can be ready to harvest in as little as 35 days! Hakurei turnips are frost tolerant, and although the greens may take a beating with heavier frosts the roots will remain sweet, juicy, and crisp- just be sure to get them out of the ground before a hard freeze sets in. Or, like radish, if the roots don’t end up reaching full size you can at least use the tops to cook with. Hakurei turnips add nice variety to a late-season harvest that can often be mostly greens.

While the end of summer can be bittersweet, in the garden it’s the perfect time to get some new crops growing! Take advantage of the more comfortable temperatures to get outside and plant a fresh round of veggies for late-fall harvests!

The greens we’ll cover in this article should be seeded quite densely to be grown for salad greens (roughly 1.5’-2’ between plants)- this helps the leaves stay salad-sized and makes it easier to harvest them with a knife as cut-and-come-again greens. So long as you don’t entirely cut off the top growing crowns of the plants, you can keep harvesting the greens as they regrow until they finally bolt. If you’re particular about bug-bitten leaves (or if you have some especially hungry pests), be sure to cover your greens with insect netting to help keep the leaves intact.

Arugula

Also known as rocket or rucola, arugula is a delicate leafy green that packs a peppery punch. If you don’t mind salad with a kick you can use arugula as the sole green, but it also makes a great addition to mesclun mix where its spiciness is balanced out with lettuce and milder greens. Or, skip the salad and sprinkle it on top of homemade pizza or sandwiches for a gourmet touch! Arugula can tend to bolt easily so be sure to keep it well-watered to avoid drought stress, and consider sowing in regular successions to be able to continue harvesting throughout the season.

Mustard

Mustard packs a good amount of spice- similar to arugula but arguably a notch more intense, and with a flavor all its own. Mustard greens are not necessarily green- there are red varieties available such as ‘Red Giant‘ that add a pop of color as well as flavor. Mustard leaves have unique crispy-juicy stems and serrated or savoyed leaves that add a really interesting texture to salad mixes. Mustard can be a bit intense as a sole salad green but if you’re needing a change from salad entirely it’s also excellent in stir-fries and soups.

Tip: Mustard is listed under Herbs in Planter as it can also be grown for mustard seed

Baby kale

Kale is often grown for full-sized leaves that can be turned into kale chips, chopped salads, and green smoothies. But if you sow kale seeds densely and cut off the leaves while they are young and tender you have ‘baby kale’ which is a wonderful salad green. Baby kale has the same strong flavor that fully mature kale does, but the texture is much softer so the leaves are pleasant to eat whole in salads without needing to chop them down first. Also, if you cease cutting the baby kale leaves and thin out the plants, the remaining plants can grow into fully mature-sized kale so you can harvest larger leaves (kale doesn’t tend to bolt as easily as some of the other greens in the list).

Baby chard (and beet) greens

Chard and beets are related plants that have very similar greens. Chard is often grown for full-sized leaves, while beets are often grown for their sugary roots- but they can both be seeded densely and grown for salad greens. Like beet roots, beet greens (they can often be purple-red in color) have an ‘earthy’ undertone to their flavor that may not appeal to everyone. Chard has a more neutral spinach-like flavor and the colorful stems and bright-green leaves are visually striking. Both can add a nice depth of flavor and pop of color to a salad mix.

Endive/escarole

While endive and escarole can look like little lettuces, they are actually members of a unique chicory sub-group of plants (genus Cichorium). These greens are most commonly described as bitter- if you’re not a fan of bitter flavors they might not agree with you. Endive and escarole is typically blanched when growing- that is the growing stem is blocked from receiving sunlight to maintain a white color and a milder flavor. They can be used as the sole green in a salad, but the strong bitter flavor often needs to be balanced out by adding plenty of sweet, salty, and/or acidic ingredients. They can also be grilled first which adds a depth of flavor that works really well with the bitterness.

Bonus: Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are often added to edible gardens for their beautiful color and as companion plants that can attract pollinators and discourage pests. But did you know that all parts of the nasturtium plant are also edible? They have a mild peppery taste and they make for a stunningly beautiful salad with the flowers and the leaves combined together. Nasturtiums may look super-delicate, but they are surprisingly easy to grow in the garden! Direct-sow nasturtiums into any available nooks and crannies to add beauty and color to your garden and your salad plate!

Salads are a great way to enjoy garden veggies at their peak freshness! But if you start to get tired of the same old salad ingredients, don’t give up on eating salads entirely. Up your salad game instead by adding some of these unique and interesting greens to the mix!

Do all veggie plants need full sun?

For the most part, vegetable plants grow and produce best in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day). Veggie plants need ample sun to be able to photosynthesize and grow as quickly as possible- a lack of sun may not outright kill them but it can severely stunt their growth. But there are some plants that will still produce a respectable harvest in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun per day). Gardening successfully in part shade comes down to being selective about what you choose to grow and having realistic expectations about how much you’ll be able to harvest.

If your potential garden location is in near total shade and gets only a few hours of sun each day, you may want to skip down the Alternatives to gardening in part shade section of this article. While you can certainly have fun experimenting with growing edible plants in shade (you might even discover some non-traditional edible plants that grow well in shade), you’ll likely only be able to muster up a meager harvest.

Veggie plants to grow in part shade

Lettuce and leafy greens

Lettuce and other leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are star performers in the shade. Growing them in part shade can even have some benefits, as blazing summer sun can contribute to them bolting. To get the plants off to a good start you may want to consider starting them indoors then transplanting out to the shadier parts of your garden. It can be challenging to get lettuce to form full-sized heads in part-shade, but you can certainly harvest it as cut-and-come-again lettuce.

Green onions and chives

‘Bulbing onions’ require full sun to form their large, edible bulbs, however green onions and chives are excellent shady garden plants because they are primarily harvested for their slender, pungent greens. While they will produce best in full sun, you can tuck them into shady spots and still harvest enough to make the effort worthwhile. To learn more about growing these and other allium-family crops be sure to check out Grow Amazing Alliums.

Radishes

By now you might be noticing a theme with shady-garden plant picks: they tend to be green and leafy. Radishes can add a nice burst of color to an otherwise monotone shady salad garden. Radishes can still form nice-sized roots when grown in part shade- although it might take longer than usual for the bulbs to form. Be careful not to use too much high-nitrogen fertilizer where you plant radishes, as this will stimulate them to form lush leafy tops and tiny roots. If this does happen all is not lost- radish greens are edible too!

Beets

Like radishes, beets are another root crop that can be grown in partial shade. The roots of shade-grown beets will likely be smaller than their full-sun counterparts, but you can always roast them whole and just call them ultra-gourmet baby beets. Don’t leave beets in the ground for an excessively long time hoping that massive roots will form- they might just turn woody and tough instead. Beet greens are also totally delicious in salads or sauteed, so if you do find the bulbs are too diminutive the greens will not disappoint!

Brassicas (such as broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale)

Brassicas can be grown in part-shade locations- but they must receive at minimum 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. If your location has dappled sun throughout the day, you may want to avoid growing brassicas there. Because brassicas, like leafy greens, are prone to bolting under stress caused by heat and drought, growing them in shade may help to delay this. Patience is key as brassicas are already slow-growing crops and they will grow even more slowly in the shade. You likely will not be able to get super-sized heads to form on your broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, but it’s at least possible to grow small, tender heads. Start brassicas indoors to give them the best possible chance to grow and reach maturity in the shade.

Peas

While peas perform best when in full sun, you can still get a harvest if they’re planted in part shade. You might even be able to trellis your climbing peas so that the plants are able to climb out of the shade to reach more sun. It is important to plant your peas with enough time for them to reach maturity before the summer heat comes. While partial shade will help keep them cooler for longer, eventually they will stop flowering and producing peas in the summer’s heat. For more info on growing peas, check out Grow Awesome Legumes.

Certain herbs (such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley)

While Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and oregano prefer full sun and soil on the drier side, other herbs such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley don’t mind a bit of shade. The shade will help keep the soil moist and will help delay bolting. Trim (and cook with!) herbs planted in part-shade regularly to help keep the plants bushy and compact. And a special warning about mint: be sure to plant it in a container to keep it from spreading prolifically.

Alternatives to gardening in the shade

Container gardening

While your yard might be submerged in shade, perhaps there’s a sunny spot on a deck or front porch that could be a great spot to grow veggies in containers. Virtually every type of veggie can be grown in a container provided the container is large enough for the crop, and you water and fertilize regularly to keep the growing medium moist and full of nutrients. Containers can also be moved around as needed to capture the most amount of sun available as the sun’s angle changes.

Rent a community garden plot

If your house is in the middle of the deep woods your best bet for getting a sizable garden harvest could be to rent a plot at your local community garden. Community garden plots are typically very inexpensive to rent for an entire season and will let you grow sun-loving veggies much more successfully. If you garden in a community plot be sure to set reminders to water your garden when the weather’s hot and dry, as you won’t be able to check the state of your plants as easily as in a backyard garden.

Garden with neighbors and friends

If your neighbors and/or friends have unused backyard space that gets full sun exposure, try striking up a deal with them! If they let you use the space for gardening you can bestow them with tasty garden-grown produce throughout the season. If your friends happen to be gardening enthusiasts all the better- you can share the work, share knowledge, and share the reward!

Don’t let the semi-shaded parts of your garden be nothing more than wasted space. Maximize your harvests by growing some of these shade-tolerant plants and saving the full-sun spaces for sun-loving crops. Every harvest you can get from a shady space is a gardening win!

Kale

Kale is truly an incredible plant. Not only is it astoundingly cold-hardy, once established it can grow through almost anything you can throw at it. Kale is a top low-maintenance plant pick because you plant it once and enjoy continuous harvests all season long (assuming you are harvesting it for larger, individual leaves). To harvest kale just snap off the lowest, largest leaves as close as possible to the stem, making sure to leave the top of the plant and several upper leaves intact. When harvested this way, kale can keep on producing well into fall and even winter…You might even find it grows back again the following year!

Chard

Like kale, chard is another season-long powerhouse producer. Chard is also cold hardy, so you can sow seeds early in the season when the planting schedule is not as intense! Chard has a spinach-like flavor and a similar texture when cooked, but unlike spinach chard is amazingly resistant to bolting. Chard leaves remain tasty and sweet all season long, even through the blazing heat of summer. Chard is harvested similarly to kale- cut off the largest, lower leaves as close to the base of the plant as possible.

Green onions

Green onions* are one of the least-fussy plants you can grow. They germinate readily, require minimal fertilizer, and can even tolerate a slight drought (emphasis on slight). Green onions are significantly less tricky to grow than bulbing onions, and there’s no curing process involved - you simply pull them out, wash them up and store them in the fridge. Green onions also ‘hold’ well in the garden - that is, you don’t have to harvest them all at a super-precise time. They’re happy to keep on growing until you need them (although eventually you might end up with some humongous green onions!)

*Note: green onions are a variety of onions in Planter!

Zucchini

Zucchini* makes the list of low-maintenance plants because of how hyper-productive it is! Growing just one or two zucchini plants could easily provide enough zucchini for your family (and you might even be giving it away!) Zucchini plants tend to be on the larger side but there are compact container varieties available that can help save space in the garden. With zucchini the only time-sensitive task is harvesting - it’s important to harvest the zucchinis before they get too large so the plant will keep on producing! Zucchini plants can produce all season long, although at some point they might succumb to pest and disease pressure. Rather than spending time battling pests and disease it may be more efficient to start a couple of back-up seedlings, timing them to reach maturity in the mid-late season. 

* Note: zucchini is a variety of squash in Planter!

Bush beans

While beans are a popular garden plant, for a low-maintenance bean harvest bush beans are the way to go. Bush bean varieties, as the name suggests, have a bushing growth habit which means they don’t require a trellis or support structure to grow and produce a harvest. Pole bean varieties in contrast are vining plants that do need a structure to climb on. Bush beans are also relatively easy to harvest since you don’t need to reach around a trellis. And, since bean plants fix nitrogen from the air (with the help of soil bacteria), you can skip the fertilizing routine for beans!

Herbs (not technically a plant)

‘Herbs’ is a bit of a catch-all, but truly they can be some of the easiest plants to grow. Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and oregano thrive in poor soil (soil low in nutrients) and actually prefer to dry out between waterings! Some herbs are also perennials- depending on the variety and your hardiness zone they can come back year after year without the need to re-plant. Then there are herbs such as mint and dill which are infamously easy to grow because they self-seed prolifically (and mint also spreads by rhizomes). Grow mint and dill in containers otherwise they grow so readily that they can turn into garden weeds!

Dwarf cherry tomatoes

Tomatoes can arguably be one of the most maintenance-intensive crops, depending on the variety, but dwarf cherry tomato varieties are easy-peasy. They are small, well-behaved little plants that produce prolifically without a need for trellising. They do not require much pruning - only to remove damaged or yellowing leaves and leaves touching the soil. Plus they grow well in containers- so weeding is minimized and you can keep them within reach for easy mealtime harvesting (or a quick garden snack!)

Incorporate these low-maintenance plants into your veggie garden this season to enjoy maximum harvests with minimal effort!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

What are Cold-Hardy Crops?

There are several cold-hardy crops that will grow in cooler temperatures and can withstand a mild frost or even a freeze. These plants are typically divided into two groups - semi-hardy which can tolerate a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and hardy which can tolerate heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). Not only do these plants withstand the colder temperatures, they actually grow best in the cooler weather.

Examples of semi-hardy crops include: carrots, beets, lettuce, cilantro, and peas.

Examples of hardy crops include: kale, spinach, garlic, chives, and parsley.

Use Planter to identify cool season plants that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant to frost! Select a plant and refer to the Season and Frost cards under Quick Info:

Note that cold-hardy crops are not to be confused with cole crops. Cole crops are members of the brassica family specifically- and while they do love the cold - they are just one family out of many that happen to enjoy cold weather.

When to Plant

Knowing when to plant cold-hardy crops can be tricky. Obviously, the ground should be workable. Aside from this how do you know when it is safe to plant? As a first step, check the Growing Calendar in Planter, to see when the crops you are interested in planting can be sown (or transplanted) outdoors in your area.

It’s a good idea to use a soil thermometer to measure the ground temperature to ensure it is warm enough for seeds to germinate. Seeds that are planted in soil that is too cold for them to germinate will absorb water without germinating, which leaves them susceptible to rot. Research the ideal soil temperatures to germinate the crops you are planning to grow.

Even if the ground is warm enough to plant, there is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate! There may still be a risk of extreme weather that could potentially kill off even the most hardy crops. To help avoid this, mulch the plants generously to protect them from the elements. Cover plants with plastic sheets or cloches if severe cold rolls in. Also, sow regular successions (‘waves’) of crops. If some plants do perish in the harsh spring conditions, planting in succession helps ensure there will be new plants growing up not far behind.

Caring for Cold Hardy Crops

Prior to planting cool season crops, prepare the bed by working in compost and a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer. Depending on the crop, you may need to re-apply fertilizer every several weeks.

Although it may not be warm out, still be on the lookout for dry conditions. If there isn’t enough rainfall, provide sufficient water to keep the ground consistently moist

Take full advantage of the early spring growing season - don’t miss out on delicious harvests of cold-hardy crops!