Sometimes, I just want to grow onions that are literally called Walla Walla. Don’t mind me if I do.

So let’s meet the extended Allium family; the spicy, teary-eyed relatives you know, the ancient ones you didn’t expect, and the perennial oddballs that keep coming back.

The Long History of Onions

Onions are among the oldest cultivated vegetables in the world. Archaeological evidence shows they were grown in Central Asia and the Middle East over 5,000 years ago. Ancient Egyptians adored them: onions were buried with pharaohs, symbolizing eternal life thanks to their endless rings. The Greeks trained athletes on diets full of onions, while the Romans believed onions improved strength and courage.

By the Middle Ages, onions were so valuable in Europe that they were used to pay rent and even given as wedding gifts. (Romantic, right? “Honey, I got you… onions.”)

Garlic, leeks, and chives share similar pedigrees, all part of the Allium family, which includes over 900 species worldwide. Today, we mostly lean on a few supermarket staples, but the family tree is much richer.

The Classics: Bulbing Alliums

• Yellow Onion: The global workhorse. Strong flavor, long storage.
• Red Onion: Likely originating from the Meditarranean. Sweeter, milder and beautiful raw in salads. Though less storable.
• White onion: Popular in Latin American cooking for centuries. Sharper, spicier, but with shorter shelf life.
• Shallots: Brought to Europe by Crusaders from the Middle East. Cluster-forming, sweet and subtle.
• Cipollini Onions: From Italy, bred for their high sugar content.

The Perennial Oddballs

• Welsh Onion (Allium fistulosum): Despite the name, this perennial comes from China, cultivated there for over 1,000 years. Never bulbs, just keeps giving green shoots every spring.
• Egyptian Walking Onion (Allium x proliferum): A medieval European curiosity, this hybrid reproduces via little bulbs that topple over and ‘walk’ across your garden.
• Chives (Allium Schoenoprasum): Native to both Europe and Asia, chives have been harvested since the Middle Ages. Their purple pompoms attract pollinators while you snip the leaves.
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum): Cultivated since ancient Egypt and Rome, leeks are mild and just awesome.

The Surprise Alliums

Not everything onion-y looks like an onion!

• Scallions / Spring Onions (young Allium cepa): Harvested before bulbing, these are basically teenage onions. Tender, mild, and fast-growing. Many people don’t realize they’re just “unfinished onions.” 
• Garlic: Traced back over 4,000 years, used in medicine and rituals. Egyptians fed it to pyramid builders for strength.
• Ornamental Alliums: Those tall garden fireworks with purple globe flowers? Still onions. They were first popularized in Victorian ornamental gardens.

Why do onions make us cry?

It’s all chemistry.

1. Cutting an onion breaks its cells
2. Those cells release an enzyme called alliinase
3. Alliinase reacts with sulfur compounds (absorbed from the soil) to produce ‘syn-Propanethial-S-Oxide’ (a volatile gas). Perfect word for when you’re playing Hangman.
4. That volatile gas drifts upward, stinging your eyes. Your tear glands release water to flush it out.

Cooking, chilling or soaking onions in water before chopping can reduce that reaction! But in short: onions evolved chemical tear gas to discourage predators.

Which makes me suddenly realize that I’m the predator here. Chopping through their defenses every evening. Now I feel kinda bad for the fam. 

Why plant diverse Alliums?

Each variety in the Allium family brings its own flavor to the table, from the fiery kick of white onions to the candy-like sweetness of Cipollini. By mixing annuals with perennials, you can enjoy harvests almost all year round. 

Growing heirloom varieties also means you’re keeping history alive in your garden, connecting directly to thousands of years of food culture! It’s not just about the kitchen either; ornamental Alliums draw in pollinators, while diversity in your beds makes your crops more resilient and less likely to be wiped out by disease.

Planting Now (September–October)

This is the perfect time to:

• Plant garlic cloves for harvest next summer.
• Plant shallot sets for gourmet bulbs by midsummer.
• Put in overwintering onion sets for an early summer harvest.
• Establish perennial Alliums like Welsh onions and walking onions.

Wanna know more about how to plant them? Check out this piece by Erin on** how to grow amazing Alliums,** full of practical tips to get your onion patch thriving.

Final Thought

The Allium family is ancient and diverse. From the reliable yellow onion to the flamboyant red, the wandering Egyptian, and the delicate chive, this clan has shaped kitchens and cultures for millennia. Planting a few new varieties this autumn means you’ll not only expand your harvest, you’ll also be growing a slice of history, resilience, and flavor that goes far beyond the supermarket net bag.

Like always, be mindful of the plants you eat. They’ve developed defenses, strategies, and quirks to make it this far. In their own way, they’re survivors, and a life, no matter how small, deserves respect.

It’s mid-July, and the breeze here in the mountains feels like a warm hug. Most folks are busy harvesting courgettes the size of baguettes and, no doubt, cursing their once-again runaway mint. I’m standing in my garden with a fresh cup of (yes, mint) tea and a question: What do I want to eat in the fall?

Because while summer is in full swing, this is actually the secret season to sow again. Gardening either keeps you fully in the moment or shoots your brain a few months into the future. That’s part of the deal, I guess. Especially up here at 900 meters altitude (zone 6-ish), where autumn comes with a whisper… and then a frost. No time in between.

So I thought I’d take you along. Let’s chat about what you can still plant now, and which crops are worth your time to make sure there’s still some harvest joy in the fall.

Let’s Talk About Frost, Baby

As we tiptoe toward fall, it’s a great time to start plotting your autumn garden. For an overview of the types of crops that are generally best suited for a fall garden, and how Planter can help you to double check the timing, have a read of the article: Don’t Forget Your Fall Garden.

One of my favorite newer(ish) Planter features? In the settings tab, Planter shows a countdown to your first expected fall frost, like a tiny ticking clock for gardeners. Super useful for figuring out what you can still grow in time… and also mildly panic-inducing (in the best way). Here’s mine:

My Fall Planting Picks

Ideally, I want to plant everything, have maximum diversity, and eat 23 different crunchy things in my salad bowls. But sometimes, less really is more. Expanding gradually keeps gardening fun and avoids unnecessary stress on both your soil and your (possibly receding) hairline.

With the internet offering a bazillion planting guides (plus whatever gardening books you’ve got lying around), there’s no shortage of info. For this round, I’m keeping it simple and using the Planter app to guide my choices. It already knows my local frost dates, and I love that you can filter for things like frost-tolerant crops or perennials. The Growing Calendar shows which crops you can still plant, and how much time you’ve got left to do it.

So, without further rambling… 

Here are some of the fast-growing cool-season crops I’ve chosen for an abundant fall harvest in the mountains!

1. Mâche (Lamb’s Lettuce). The absolute fall classic in Germany. To not plant it? Unthinkable.

2. Kohlrabi (early varieties). Great raw or marinated as veggie “kebab.”

3. Spinach. Always good. Especially the cold-hardy types.

4. Cilantro. Yes, even now! It handles light frost just fine.

5. Kale. Might be a bit late, but I’m giving it a go for baby leaves (and planning a perennial kale tree next year!).

6. Mustard greens. Spicy when young, flavorful when cooked.

7. Carrots. Early varieties still make it if you plant now.

8. Radishes. Because color + crunch = salad joy.

9. Bok Choy. Quick to grow, great for stir-fries.

10. Wasabi Arugula. Want to keep it mild? Use young baby leaves. Want it spicier? Let the leaves get bigger or use the flower buds, they’re often even punchier.

A few slow-burners I’m adding anyway.  These won’t feed me this year, but they’re future-you gold:

• Black salsify (Scorzonera ‘Duplex’). Beautiful, weird, delicious root native to Europe.
• Garlic. Usually planted in mid-to-late October, but I might prep beds now and sneak in a little green garlic (early-harvested cloves).
• Chives. Super hardy, great for pollinators, and the purple flowers are edible too.
• Echinacea (Coneflower). Slow to establish, but gorgeous and medicinal.
• Rhubarb. If you’re feeling bold and patient (it’s worth it). 

What to Keep in Mind When Planting Now

1. Choose fast-growing or frost-tolerant crops Look for varieties that mature in 60 days or less, or that can handle light frost.
2. Sow directly in the soil Depending on where you live, it might too late for longer-growing transplants unless you’ve already got them ready. To be safe, I’m going with direct sowing only.
3. Germination can be tricky in summer heat Sow in the evening, water well, and consider adding light shade over freshly seeded areas to keep the soil cool.
4. Keep watering consistent Seeds and young plants need steady moisture, especially during warm July days.
5. Don’t overdo it It’s easy to get excited (hello, seed hoarders), but keep it simple and realistic to avoid overwhelm. Think: joy, not stress.

So there you have it, one last hurrah for the garden before the frost moves in.

Go sow something. Go be smug in October. You’ve got this.

When to Harvest

Whether or not you intend to use the scapes in your kitchen, removing them from the garlic bulb is a good idea to promote the energy into growing larger bulbs. Snip scapes just as they are starting to form a half-circle. Using scissors, snip the stalk without removing any of the leaves. You can harvest when they are a full circle shape, too, as long as they are tender. If you wait too long, the scapes will become tough, woody, and undesirable.  Scapes can be used right away or stored in the refrigerator. They are stored best in the vegetable crisper drawer or in a wet paper towel. You can also chop the scapes and freeze them for later use for up to one year. 

What to Do With Garlic Scapes

Of course, garlic scapes have a garlicky flavor, but it’s not as strong as a clove of garlic, so they are great to use in all kinds of ways. They have a chive or green onion-like flavor that goes well with a lot of different foods. 

• Chop raw scapes and sprinkle them over finished dishes or salads to add fresh garden garlic flavor.
• Saute scapes in butter for a delectable side dish, or add them to stir-fries.
• Chop up and freeze little pieces you can add to soups all year.
• Add chopped-up scapes to biscuit dough for garlicky- biscuits.
• Make a pesto for bread or pasta. 
• You can dry garlic scapes and powder them up for a tasty seasoning.

Garlic Scape Pesto Recipe

Ingredients:

1 Cup of chopped garlic scapes

½ Cup of pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts, or other nuts of your choice

½ Cup of Olive oil or more if desired

½ Cup of shredded Parmesan or Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese

1/2- 1 Tsp of salt

Squeeze of lemon juice, if desired

Whirl all ingredients in a food processor until desired consistency. Feel free to add or subtract ingredients to customize. Store in the fridge for a few days.

How to Use Pesto:

Pasta 

Grilled Cheese dip

Spread on sourdough bread

Pizza sauce

As a dip for crackers

More Reasons to Harvest Scapes

• Since you can only harvest scapes once a year, they are seen as a rare treat. You can sell them at your farmer’s markets or local restaurants to earn extra money if you have a hobby farm.
• Like garlic bulbs, scapes have high levels of antioxidants and may support heart or immune system health. 
• If you’re into making floral arrangements and don’t want to eat the scapes, put them in a vase with water and watch them bloom into an interesting bouquet. You can also store the scapes this way for a couple of days until you are ready to use them in the kitchen. 

Garlic scape season is short, so if you’ve got some hard-neck garlic growing in the garden, check to see if you have some scapes and consider trying them in your kitchen this year. Learn more about growing garlic in the Planter App.

Why Cold-Hardy Veggies?

Cold-hardy vegetables are a special group of plants that can handle chilly temperatures and even a touch of frost. These tough veggies are perfect for planting in the fall and winter, allowing you to extend your growing season and enjoy homegrown goodness even when the weather isn’t exactly balmy. Use the Planter App to identify cold hardy veggies that can handle a light frost or in some cases even a freeze!

Our Top 10 Picks for Your Winter Garden

Kale

This leafy green superstar is packed with nutrients and comes in a variety of colors and textures. Kale prefers well-drained soil and a spot with plenty of sunshine. Give it regular waterings, and you’ll be enjoying delicious salads and smoothies all winter long.

Varieties: ‘Lacinato’ (Dinosaur Kale): This variety has dark blue-green leaves with a savoyed (ruffled) texture. It’s known for its slightly sweeter flavor compared to other kales.

‘Red Russian’ Kale: This variety has red stems and purplish-green leaves with a milder, sweeter flavor. It’s also very ornamental!

‘Winterbor’ Kale: This variety is extremely cold-hardy, as the name suggests, and can tolerate temperatures down to -10°F. It has a slightly sweeter and more tender texture than other kales.

Spinach

Another nutritional powerhouse, spinach is a fast-growing cool-season crop. Like kale, it prefers full sun and well-drained soil. You can start harvesting baby spinach leaves in just a few weeks!

Varieties:

‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ Spinach: A classic variety that’s slow to bolt (go to seed) and produces large, dark green leaves.

‘Space’ Spinach: This variety is resistant to downy mildew and produces baby spinach leaves that are perfect for salads.

‘Tyee’ Spinach: This variety is known for its high yields and resistance to bolting, making it a great choice for the Southeast.

Radishes

These little root vegetables are super easy to grow and add a peppery crunch to salads and sandwiches. Radishes prefer loose, sandy soil and mature in about a month.

Varieties:

‘Cherry Belle’ Radish: A popular variety that matures quickly (in about 22 days) and produces round, red roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor.

‘French Breakfast’ Radish: This variety has elongated, red roots with white tips and a slightly spicy flavor.

‘White Icicle’ Radish: This variety has long, white roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor. It’s also slower to bolt than other radishes.

Carrots

Believe it or not, carrots actually sweeten in flavor when grown in cool weather. Choose a variety with short roots for best results in the winter garden. Make sure your soil is loose and free of rocks to allow for proper root development.

Varieties:

‘Danvers Half Long’ Carrot: A classic variety that’s well-suited for heavy soils and produces medium-length, sweet roots.

‘Little Finger’ Carrot: This variety is perfect for the Southeast’s shorter growing season, as it matures quickly and produces small, tender roots.

‘Paris Market’ Carrot: This variety produces round, bite-sized roots that are perfect for snacking or roasting.

Lettuce

Enjoy fresh salads all winter long by planting cold-hardy lettuce varieties. Loose-leaf lettuce is a great option for beginners, as it can be harvested continuously. Provide your lettuce with partial shade and consistent moisture.

Varieties:

‘Black Seeded Simpson’ Lettuce: A popular loose-leaf variety with bright green, ruffled leaves and a mild flavor.

‘Winter Density’ Lettuce: This romaine lettuce variety is cold-hardy and can tolerate some frost. It has crisp, dark green leaves.

‘Red Sails’ Lettuce: This loose-leaf variety has beautiful red leaves with a mild flavor and adds a pop of color to salads.

Onions

Onions are a kitchen staple, and many varieties can be planted in the fall for a spring harvest. Choose onion sets or transplants for easiest planting. Onions need full sun and well-drained soil. Short-day onions grow best in mild winter climates, such as zone 7 or warmer.

Varieties:

‘Yellow Granex’ Onion (Vidalia): This variety is a favorite in the Southeast and produces large, sweet onions.

‘Red Creole’ Onion: This variety is known for its pungent flavor and beautiful red color.

‘White Bermuda’ Onion: This variety produces large, mild onions that are great for slicing.

Garlic

Plant garlic cloves in the fall, and you’ll be rewarded with flavorful bulbs in the spring. Garlic prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Don’t forget to mulch around your garlic plants to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Varieties:

‘Silverskin’ Garlic: This softneck variety is well-suited for the Southeast and produces large bulbs with a strong flavor.

‘Inchelium Red’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its rich, complex flavor and beautiful purple stripes.

‘Spanish Roja’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its robust flavor and long storage life.

Turnips

Both the roots and greens of turnips are edible, making them a versatile addition to your winter garden. Turnips prefer full sun and loose, fertile soil. They’re also relatively fast-growing, maturing in about two months.

Varieties:

‘Purple Top White Globe’ Turnip: A classic variety with a purple top and white flesh. It has a mild, sweet flavor.

‘Hakurei’ Turnip: This Japanese variety has a sweet, delicate flavor and can be eaten raw or cooked.

‘Seven Top’ Turnip: This variety is grown primarily for its greens, which have a mild, spinach-like flavor.

Peas

Enjoy sweet, tender peas by planting them in the fall. Choose a variety that’s specifically bred for cool weather. Peas need full sun and something to climb on, like a trellis or fence.

Varieties:

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ Pea: This snow pea variety is cold-tolerant and produces sweet, edible pods.

‘Wando’ Pea: This garden pea variety is heat- and cold-tolerant, making it a good choice for the Southeast.

‘Maestro’ Pea: This shelling pea variety is known for its high yields and sweet flavor.

Swiss Chard

This colorful leafy green is a close relative of spinach and beets. It’s packed with vitamins and minerals and can be used in a variety of dishes. Swiss chard prefers full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.

Varieties:

‘Bright Lights’ Swiss Chard: This variety has colorful stems in shades of red, pink, orange, and yellow, making it a beautiful addition to the garden.

‘Lucullus’ Swiss Chard: This variety has white stems and dark green leaves with a slightly savoyed texture.

‘Rhubarb Chard’ Swiss Chard: This variety has red stems and green leaves with a slightly tart flavor.

Additional Tips for Winter Gardening

Even though these veggies are tough, they can still use a little extra TLC during the colder months. Here are a few tips to help your winter garden thrive:

• Frost Protection: While these veggies can handle some cold, a hard frost can still damage them. If a freeze is predicted, protect your plants by covering them with a row cover or blanket overnight.
• Water Wisely: Plants need less water in the winter, so don’t over do it. Water deeply but less frequently, and make sure the soil has good drainage to prevent soggy roots.
• Feed Your Soil: Healthy soil means healthy plants! Amend your soil with compost or other organic matter to provide nutrients and improve drainage.
• Sunlight is Key: Even in winter, most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Choose a sunny spot for your garden, and be mindful of shadows cast by buildings or trees.

Ready to enjoy fresh, homegrown veggies all winter long? By planting these cold-hardy varieties now, you can extend your harvest and savor the flavors of the season. Imagine the satisfaction of serving up a salad made with ingredients you grew yourself, even in the depths of winter!

Don’t forget to download the Planter App for more winter gardening tips, tricks, and personalized advice. Happy growing!

What Should Pets Eat?

There are debates about the “right” diet for cats and dogs. In the wild, dogs are omnivores.  They eat meat, of course, but they also eat the stomachs of animals, which are usually full of fermenting plant material. Cats’ stomachs are very acidic, so they can survive primarily on meat.  However, plant fiber can help feed the bacteria in cats’ stomachs.  Some people feed their pets kibble, some choose wet food, some cook their pet’s meals from scratch, and some feed pets raw food. Ultimately, the choice is up to you, but if you want to give your pets some home-grown treats or you hope to enhance their health, sharing your garden bounty is a good way to do so. 

It’s important to note that animals’ bodies digest and process some plants differently than us, and sometimes the wrong food can be harmful. Start with a small amount when giving your pet a new food for the first time. If you are feeding your pets packaged dried fruit, be sure xylitol isn’t used as a sweetener because it is toxic to animals. PetMD.com is a good place to find out which fruits and vegetables are safe for cats.  The American Kennel Club has good information regarding dogs.  It’s always a good idea to check with your pet’s vet before introducing new foods, especially if they have health concerns.

Dogs

Some dogs love fruit and veggies, and some want nothing to do with them! If your dog wants nothing to do with fresh veggies, you can try cooking them and adding them to your dog’s food.  Fruit and veg can be an excellent way to add fiber to your pet’s diet, which can be lacking in kibble.

According to the AKC, here are some safe fruit and vegetables for dogs (not a complete list): 

• Apples- make sure they don’t eat too many seeds
• Bananas- try blending up frozen bananas and peanut butter for a dog smoothie
• Blueberries- frozen blueberries are a nice treat on a hot day!
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cantaloupe
• Carrots- carrots make a good chew toy (supervise your pet so they don’t choke)
• Celery
• Cranberries- know any dogs who like them?
• Cucumbers
• Green beans- cooked green beans are a hit with a lot of dogs
• Ginger- technically an herb, but good for upset digestive systems
• Peaches
• Pears
• Peas
• Pumpkin-a great base for homemade dog treats and pumpkin seeds have essential fatty acids 
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes- small amounts of ripe tomatoes are okay
• Strawberries
• Watermelon

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Asparagus- difficult for dogs to digest properly
• Avocado
• Cherries- the pits, stems, and leaves can cause problems
• Chives
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions

According to the AKC, citrus and spinach are potentially safe but it’s better to avoid them. Dogs should only be fed cooked potatoes in small amounts, and they should never be fed green potatoes. Dogs shouldn’t eat green tomatoes or any part of a tomato plant.

Cats

Cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so most don’t like fruit. Most cats will pick a platter of tuna over a pile of green beans, but if you have a cat with a sophisticated palette, you can try some snacks from the garden. If your cat won’t try fresh produce, you can dehydrate the fruit or veggies, then powder them, and sprinkle a little on their food. And of course, cats (and dogs) usually love catnip!

Safe fruit and vegetables according to PetMD (not a complete list):

• Apples
• Asparagus
• Bananas
• Blueberries
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cantaloupe
• Cranberries
• Cucumber
• Ginger- an herb that’s good for upset digestive systems 
• Pear
• Peas
• Peppers
• Pumpkin
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Chives
• Citrus
• Garlic
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions
• Rhubarb

The same applies to potatoes for cats and dogs: cook potatoes before serving and never feed them green potatoes.  Cats can have tiny pieces of ripe tomatoes. They should never eat green tomatoes or any other part of a tomato plant.

Other Pets: 

Birds:

Birds can and should eat a lot of fruit and vegetables. This website is a good resource for learning more about what is safe. Avoid garlic, onions, avocados, and head lettuce varieties that are high in water content. 

Gerbils and Hamsters:

Be mindful of the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables that hamsters and gerbils eat. Too many snacks high in water content can cause gastrointestinal distress. Keep your serving sizes small. These pets can safely enjoy apples, bananas, berries, lettuce, kale, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and more!  

Rabbits:

These veggie lovers will eat almost every plant in a garden! However, rabbits are not recommended to eat onions, leeks, garlic, raw potatoes, or iceberg lettuce. Dark and leafy lettuce is okay. 

Fish: 

I was surprised to learn that pet fish can eat treats from the garden. You might want to research all of the things that different types of fish can eat, but some produce fish can eat (according to research online, I am not a fish expert) are cucumber, lettuce, carrots, pieces of pumpkin, apples, pears, berries, and zucchini.  Word on the internet says to avoid oranges and watermelon.

Peter, the creator of Planter, gives his fish red lettuce that has bolted. They love it!

Next time you’re out harvesting, see if anything sparks your pet’s interest.  Their favorite garden treat might surprise you!

What Makes a Plant an Herb?

So, first of all, what makes a plant an “herb”? The dictionary tells us an herb is: “a plant or plant part valued for its medicinal, savory, or aromatic qualities”. Herbs can be annuals or perennials. They can be shrubs or trees. They can be disguised as plants you always thought were just ornamental in the garden. Some common garden vegetables are considered herbs! For example, there are many studies on the heart health benefits of garlic.

There are many ways to enjoy herbs. It can be as easy as brewing a cup of tea or adding them to your meals. You can learn the art of making tinctures, salves, and infused oils. One of the best ways to enjoy herbs is just by tending to them and watching them grow. 

Culinary vs. Medicinal Herbs

You already know that we use culinary herbs, like rosemary, to add flavor to food. And you probably know some herbs that are used as supplements, such as Ginkgo biloba.  But people are often surprised to find out that a lot of the herbs sitting in their spice cabinet have a long history of use in traditional medicine! Thyme is an herb that is considered both culinary and medicinal.  Echinacea, on the other hand, is not quite as tasty and is usually only used for enhancing health. Some herbs are also too strong to use more than just a little bit at a time.

The Benefits of Having an Herbal Garden

• A lot of herbs are great for bringing in pollinators 

• Many herbs help repel garden pests

• No need to buy herbs at the store for your cooking

• Plants like nettles can be used to make a garden compost tea for fertilizer

• You can save money by making your own herbal preparations

• Adds to the feeling of self-sufficiency 

• Connects you to your heritage

• Helps you take charge of your well-being

How do I choose?

If you’re ready to add herbs to your space, you might be thinking about where to start. Here are some considerations: 

• How much space do you have? Do you have enough room to have herbs such as elderberries? Or do you need to stick to the patio with container gardening? The good news is that a lot of Mediterranean herbs like thyme, rosemary, and lavender do excellent in pots.
• Do you want herbs mainly for flavoring your cooking?
• Do you have the time for annuals? Or are perennials that come back on their own preferred? 
• Do you want to plan a tea garden?
• Do you want to grow enough herbs to keep a well-stocked home apothecary?

Plants like rosemary, thyme, and sage are good beginner herbs and they tend to be available at most nurseries and garden centers. They are also pretty easygoing. If you’re beyond the beginner herbs, chamomile, yarrow, parsley, and several types of mint are easy to find. For the more unusual herbs you might have to get them from a specialty shop or online. A quick internet search can point you to some medicinal herb companies.

Can I grow herbs in the fall and winter?

Cold-hardy herbs like parsley, bay leaf, winter savory, and some types of rosemary can be grown and harvested in the winter. They can be left outside as long as they have soil with good drainage. If you live in an area with very cold winters, look for varieties that are best for your growing zone. For some, growing herbs indoors is a better choice. Thyme, garden sage, and mint are easy to grow inside. You can often find potted basil at the grocery store too, even in the winter. You might have to supplement with a grow light during the darkest part of the year. Growing herbs indoors during the winter is a great way to pass the time while you dream about spring.

No matter what size garden you’re working with, be sure to include herbs in your garden plan in Planter.

In broad terms, both herbs and spices come from plants, but herbs are usually the fresh leaves. On the other hand, spices are typically dried, and they make use of many other parts of the plant- root, stalk, seed or fruit. Both herbs and spices add flavor to the dish, however herbs are more subtle while spices have a much stronger flavor.

Plan Your Garden with Planter!

This time, we’re growing a plan centered around spices! This plan is pretty pepper-heavy, simply because of how useful and diverse they are; as usual, this plan is not an exhaustive list of spices, only a suggestion!

If you’re ever looking to grow a spice that isn’t present in Planter, you can add custom plants through the app, or as a premium desktop member! You can find more information about that by clicking here!

Companion/Combative Info

• Onions, while not featured in this post, are a great companion plant to peppers (which make up a large part of our example garden!) Peppers are particularly prone to aphids, and are protected by the pungence of onions and shallots!
• Fennel and dill will play just fine together normally, but if you are looking to harvest the seeds, you might want to give them some healthy space. Some accidental cross-pollinating can cause some strange flavors in both.
• Fennel shouldn’t be planted by peppers- it releases chemicals in the soil to inhibit the growth of competing plants, so your peppers will pay the price. In this plan, we put them in a container of their own to ensure they don’t cause any trouble! If you’d like to learn how to customize your garden view like this, click here!

Commonly used spices:

Coriander

The seed of the cilantro plant, which is also used as an herb! These seeds are often used in a variety of cultures, including Indian and Middle Eastern cuisines. Their mild flavor is put to good work alongside other spices in curries, masala, soups, or even pickles. Heating the seeds before using them will bring out their flavor, so be sure to toast them before grinding them up!

When your plant bolts, let it dry out, and then the coriander should be easy to shake from the seed head!

Fennel

Fennel is used usually as a root veggie, but you can also grow it for the seeds and use them as a spice!

Raw fennel seeds have a fresh licorice flavor, but bringing heat to the table sparks brand new flavors. When they’re cooked, the seeds offer a more sweet and caramelized flavor. These work well as an interesting sweetener for soups, broths, or oils; all you have to do is simmer them in the dish and strain. When ground, they can be a great rub on meats, particularly pork or lamb.

Ginger

Ginger, like many on this list, is a strong and showy participant in dishes! You have to be very careful about how much you use, but its warm flavor compliments many sweet or savory dishes. Try it ground in baked dishes like cookies gingerbread, add it to broth for a delicious ginger noodle soup, or add it to marinades for fish or chicken. No matter how it’s used, it will often take the show due to its strong and bright sweetness. My personal favorite salad dressing is made of carrot and ginger, and is a staple in most hibachi restaurants. This root can also be candied for an explosively spicy-sweet treat!

Peppers

Chili peppers and the like can be considered a spice! When dried, their spiciness takes a whole new level.

Paprika and Cayenne are both made from powdered, dried peppers. However, their levels of spicy are leagues apart. Paprika is made with mild peppers like bells, and isn’t very flavorful by itself, but when smoked it can be a great pairing to tomatoes or meat. On the other hand, Cayenne uses much hotter peppers, and should be used MUCH more sparingly, with care not to touch your face or eyes!

Mustard seed

Did you know- mustard seed is the largest selling spice in the world? It’s included in so many household condiments and pickled foods!

You can grind up the seeds with vinegar or oil to make your own mustard (the condiment), or you can roast the seeds to bring out earthier flavors and rub them into chicken or fish! It’s also key in pickling, and an essential ingredient in relish.

Garlic

Fresh or dried, powdered or minced or crushed, garlic is a very hearty powerful spice great in curry or most savory dishes. This spice is, dare I say, as useful as salt or pepper. After all, what can’t you use garlic in? It’s a staple in italian cuisine, incredible on any kind meat, and it’s even good raw in salsa. Something I’ve seen done before that I really want to try is roasting the cloves (which makes them really sweet) and then spreading them on toast. The only downfall of this pice is its strength- it’s very easy to go overboard.

Rosemary

Rosemary is sort of a grey area- while you typically use the leaves, like an herb, its woodiness would classify it as a spice just like bay leaves. Regardless, rosemary is a warm addition to many dishes. Make sure to mince the needles finely, as their woodiness makes them tough even after cooking.

You can make a rosemary butter that flavors steak, or rub it into rich meats like lamb… or you can bake it into bread (focassia is the popular choice) or even gnocchi. It pairs well with cheese, too, or lemonade. Its warm flavor and smell can add a new dimension to many different dishes, so don’t be afraid to make use of it!

Lavender

Lavender is typically used an herb, but you can use the flowers, buds, or seeds as a spice! Seeds can be steeped in tea, or you can steep them in milk for lavender ice cream. The buds and flowers can be very powerful when dried, and their floral flavor naturally pairs well with sweet flavors and baked goods; however, lavender isn’t a one-trick-pony! When paired with other herbs and spices, they can revolutionize tomato sauces or roasted potatoes.

Dill

These seeds are a key ingredient in an important process- Pickling! But that’s not their only use. Unlike the leaves, dill seeds are enhanced by heat. Toasting these bundles of goodness brings out their flavor and aroma, and they make a good substitute for caraway in breads. Alongside spices like pepper, onion, and garlic, ground dill seed also makes a great rub for pork or steak!

In Conclusion…

Cultivating a spice garden is a delightful journey that brings a spectrum of flavors to your fingertips. From the mild allure of coriander to the bold zest of peppers, each spice adds its unique character to culinary creations. Let your spice garden be a testament to your culinary taste, turning every meal into a celebration of your harvest and the rich tapestry of spices you’ve nurtured. And let Planter be your planning companion, so your garden ideas grow to fruition! Happy growing and savoring!

‘Curry’ is actually a loose, catch-all term that doesn’t properly refer to any specific dish. In its originating culture, each dish would have its own unique name. That being said, many dishes that could be loosely grouped as ‘curry-style’ dishes can be created using many of the same core plants in the garden. Let’s explore some potential ways to plan a culinary curry garden in Planter!

Curry garden base plan

Our sample curry garden base plan starts with a standard 4’ x 8’ garden in Planter. We’ve filled the garden with uber-versatile plants that form the backbone of many great curry dishes:

• Garlic
• Ginger
• Cilantro
• Hot peppers
• Tomatoes
• Onions

Garlic and cooking onions were placed on the outside because they are slow growers and need to be harvested by pulling or forking them out of the soil. Two hot pepper plants might not seem like a lot, but they’ll likely be prolific enough to provide your family with ample chili harvests (of course if you’re major spice lovers feel free to add more!) While cilantro is associated with cuisines from some of the hotter parts of the world, it actually can’t take the heat all that well and has a tendency to bolt. Because of this, you might want to plan to plant your cilantro in successions.

Roma tomatoes were chosen because they are a nice meaty tomato that work well for cooking. Ginger is kept in containers because a) it grows slowly and needs to be started indoors well in advance if you live in a cooler climate and b) the containers can be moved and positioned around the garden so the plants receive dappled sun- ginger loves the heat but not direct, scorching sunlight.

When choosing locations for the plants in your own plan, be sure to position them so they’ll be easily accessible for harvesting and where they won’t shade each other out unintentionally. This base plan is just a starting point that you can adapt to your unique garden conditions.

If you happen to have some more space to play with in your garden, consider branching out into some specific cuisines:

Thai curry garden plan

Thai food is vibrant and features an array of different veggies. To prepare some tasty Thai dishes, the following plants were added to the base plan:

• Peas
• Eggplant
• Carrots
• Lemongrass
• Thai basil
• Thai mint
• Peanuts
• Dwarf lime

The Thai curry garden plan incorporates most of the plants from the base curry garden plan and adds on from there. The serrano chiles were swapped for Thai chiles, and more garlic and onions were added. Lemongrass is a staple ingredient in many Thai dishes- its included in a container so it can be started early indoors and easily transitioned outside. Mint was also added in a container to prevent it from spreading and taking over the entire garden! Basil plays more nicely so it can be incorporated right into the garden bed. If possible, try to find Thai varieties of mint and basil for a more authentic flavor.

For something slightly more adventurous peanuts and a dwarf lime were added to the plan- these ingredients are often incorporated in Thai dishes or used as accompaniments. Peanuts can grow well even in somewhat northern climates as long as you select an appropriate variety and ensure they are planted with enough time to mature. Limes on the other hand are frost sensitive, but dwarf varieties can be grown as container plants that can be brought inside over winter. If overwintering a lime tree seems like too much work, forgo it and plant something else instead- just be sure not to fill the middle of the garden space with plants that will be hard to reach.

Indian curry garden plan

The Indian curry garden plan also works off the same base curry garden plan, but includes some unique ingredients favored in Indian cooking:

• Turmeric
• Cauliflower
• Potatoes
• Okra
• Kidney beans
• Mustard
• Spinach

Turmeric is a plant that spreads and grows by rhizomes, similar to ginger. Since turmeric isn’t available in Planter (yet!) one workaround is to create a custom variety of ginger and name it turmeric (turmeric isn’t technically a ginger variety but this is just a quick fix). Like ginger, turmeric is grown in pots so it can be started well in advance and moved around in the garden to capture the perfect balance of sun and shade.

Cauliflower and potatoes are included in the plan as core ingredients in the popular and delicious dish ‘aloo gobi’. Okra is added as the key component of ‘bhindi masala’, and the kidney beans can be used to prepare delicious ‘rajma’. With drying beans you’ll want to have several plants to get a yield that is substantial enough to make bean-based dishes. Rounding out the list we have spinach and mustard- spinach can be used to make a mouth-watering ‘saag paneer’ and along with mustard greens (and other mixed greens) can be used to create delicious ‘saag’ curries. And if your mustard bolts and goes to seed no worries- mustard seed is also a key spice in many Indian dishes!

We hope these curry garden plans have provided some inspiration to plan a fun and practical cuisine-themed garden! Having all the veggies at hand to create a whole range of dishes will help you make the best use of your garden produce in the kitchen. Planter makes it easy and fun to explore garden design possibilities to compliment your culinary adventures!

Choosing a garlic variety

When it comes to choosing garlic varieties it’s important to look for varieties that are adapted to your region. Generally speaking, ‘softneck’ garlic varieties tend to be grown in warmer climates where ‘hardneck’ varieties tend to be grown in colder climates, as they require a prolonged period of cold temperatures to grow properly. You might also come across ‘elephant garlic’ which is technically a leek even though it forms bulbs and can be grown and used similarly to garlic.

Aside from deciding whether to grow softneck or hardneck varieties, you’ll want to consider other traits. Some garlic varieties are hardier in extreme cold, and of course there are different flavor profiles and levels of garlicky intensity. Some hardneck garlic varieties have purple papery skins and many say they have a unique flavor. Ask seasoned gardeners in your area which garlic varieties they prefer, or otherwise you’ll have to do some experimentation to find your favorites!

While you can technically plant garlic from grocery store bulbs, this is not recommended as you can’t select an appropriate variety for your region, the cloves tend to be old and dry from transport and sitting around, and if it’s not organic the garlic might be treated with an anti-sprouting agent. For the best shot at success you’ll want to source ‘seed garlic’ from your local garden center, big box store, or online. Also be sure to plan your garlic planting in Planter so you’ll know roughly how much seed garlic to buy for the area you intend to plant.

When to plant garlic

There’s a plethora of different recommendations for the best time to plant garlic. Essentially you’re trying to balance two factors: you want to get the garlic in the ground before the soil freezes and with enough time that the garlic can start to set roots to survive winter, however you don’t want to get garlic in the ground so early that it gets confused and pushes out a lot of new leaf growth before winter. While a bit of green poking out of the soil should be fine, you don’t want your garlic to put a lot of energy into new leaf growth that could potentially suffer from frost damage. As a guideline, garlic should be planted roughly two weeks before your first frost date in fall. If the weather forecast is unseasonably warm, you may want to hold off on planting until cooler temps start rolling in. On the other hand if the cold is setting in extra-quick, you might want to hustle to get your garlic in.

In a pinch garlic can also be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring, just be aware that the bulbs will be smaller and it may take longer for your garlic to be ready to harvest. You’ll also want to ‘vernalize’ the seed garlic by putting it in a baggie in the fridge for several weeks so it feels like it has gone through a winter.

How to plant garlic

To plant garlic you’ll want to separate the bulbs into individual cloves, leaving the papery skins on each clove. Amend the soil with compost if needed, and plant each clove with the pointed end up and flat end facing down.

How deep to plant your garlic is also a topic with some conflicting advice. It depends on where you live, your soil type, and whether you plan to add a layer of mulch on top. In very cold climates gardeners may plant garlic up to 4” deep to protect it from winter chill, but in less extreme regions 2-3” is sufficient. If you’re planting into a heavier clay soil you may not want to plant your garlic as deeply so the cloves don’t rot over winter. Gardeners often mulch their garlic to help protect it from temperature extremes in winter- if you’re going to be applying a thick layer of mulch you won’t need to plant your garlic quite as deep.

While you can grow garlic in containers, in colder regions you’ll need to take steps to prevent it from taking damage from deep freezing. Consider using extra mulch in and around the container and shelter the container or bring it into a cold garage where it won’t be exposed to extreme temperatures.

Once you have your garlic planted, avoid watering it (unless you’re experiencing a fall drought) or fertilizing it until the coming year. Excess water can cause the cloves to rot and adding fertilizer can stimulate garlic to start putting on new leaf growth that you don’t really want until the following spring.

If you haven’t grown garlic before, it might seem like a pain in the neck 🙂. But growing garlic is totally worthwhile even if it means you have to go out on a chilly, windy day and dig around in cold wet soil! You’ll be amply rewarded with your garlic harvest next year…you might even be able to skip buying garlic from the store completely!

Onions (and Shallots)

Onions- the allium family namesake- can be harvested as ‘bulbing onions’ (including what we think of as yellow onions, white onions, and red onions) or as ‘bunching onions’ which are onions grown for their green tops.

To grow bulbing onions, it’s critical to determine whether to grow ‘long-day’ onions, ‘short-day’ onions, or ‘intermediate-day’ (‘day neutral’) onions. This depends on where you live and how many hours of daylight your garden receives in the summer:

• Short-day onions form the best bulbs in southern regions with 11-12 hours of sunlight each day
• Intermediate-day onions work well in regions that receive 12-14 hours sunlight
• Long-day onions will form bulbs in northern regions with 14 or more hours of sunlight (note shallots are typically grown as long-day onions)

Be sure to research bulbing onion varieties that are best suited for your area.

Onions can be grown from ‘sets’ which are small bulbs sold in bags, ‘starts’ which are small pre-started onion plants, or from seed. Sets are easy to work with but they may not produce bulbs as large as onions grown from starts and seeds. Starts are also easy to grow, however if you’re comfortable starting seeds indoors give onion seeds a try!

Onions can be planted outdoors before your last frost date, once the soil is workable. They should be planted about 1-1.5” deep into loose soil that will allow the bulbs to expand. Some gardeners advocate “spooning” onions - scooping some soil out from around the bulb to encourage it to grow outwards. This is not necessary, but if you have the time go for it!

Onions are ready to harvest once the leaves start to flop over. Pull the onions out of the ground, snip off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

Chives

If you’re looking for the easiest allium to grow, be sure to plant some chives! Chives are hardy perennial herbs that will keep coming back year after year. Chives can be grown from seeds or purchased as transplants. Or, if you have a neighbor growing chives, ask if you could divide them and take a small clump to plant!

Chives are best planted in spring, as they flourish in cooler temperatures- you may find their growth stalls in the summer only to come back again in fall. They like loose, well draining soil and while they are drought-tolerant, they do best with consistent moisture. To harvest chives, simply use garden snips to trim off some leaves near the base of the plant. Chives have a mild onion flavor- similar to green onion but more delicate. Later in spring chives will produce beautiful flower blooms- these are edible too and have the same subtle onion-y flavor!

Leeks

Leeks tend to be an expensive gourmet ingredient, but you can grow them in your garden for next to nothing! They are surprisingly easy to grow and have a very unique, gentle onion flavor. Like onions, leeks can be grown from seeds or starts. Leeks with long white stems are prized in the kitchen-  the green parts are usually discarded or used for soup stock. To get the desirable white stems they need to be ‘blanched’ - that is covered and protected from the sun. There are a few ways to achieve this: one is by using a tool called a dibber to make holes 6” deep in the soil - into which you can insert young leek plants. Mulch or dry soil can also be hilled up around the leek stems, or cardboard tubes can be used.

One thing to keep in mind is leeks can take a very long time to grow- be sure to plant them with enough time to mature and plan your garden space accordingly.

Garlic

If you enjoy cooking with garlic it is absolutely worthwhile to add garlic to your garden- the flavor of home-grown garlic is incomparable! For best results garlic should be planted in the fall within two weeks of your first frost date. In a pinch garlic can also be planted once the soil is workable in spring, just be aware that the bulbs will not grow as large. When it comes to choosing garlic varieties it’s important to look for varieties that are adapted to your region. ‘Softneck’ garlic varieties tend to be grown in warmer climates where ‘hardneck’ varieties tend to be grown in colder climates, as they require a prolonged period of cold temperatures (although this can be replicated in the fridge if you are growing in a warm climate or planting in spring). There is also ‘elephant garlic’ which is technically a leek even though it forms bulbs like garlic.

When planting garlic be sure to separate the bulbs into individual cloves, but leave the papery skins on each clove. Plant with the pointed end up/flat end down. How deep to plant your garlic depends on where you live - in colder climates it can be beneficial to plant your garlic up to 4” deep to protect it from winter chill, but in less extreme climates 2-3” is sufficient. Garlic can also be mulched to help protect it over the winter- if using mulch you may not need to plant quite as deep.

Garlic will emerge and start to grow in springtime. Hardneck garlic will shoot up a curly stem with a flower bud on top called a ‘scape’. Garlic scapes should be removed when they start to curl, to allow the plant to focus energy on bulb development. Garlic scapes are delicious and can be used in any recipe that calls for garlic!

Garlic is ready to harvest once several of its leaves start to wither and die. In some cases garlic can be pulled directly from the soil and in other cases a pitchfork might be in order! Cut off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

While tomatoes, peppers, and other summer favorites often take center stage in the garden, be sure to save space for alliums- they’re the ultimate low effort, high reward crop!

Clear out spent plants

It’s tempting to leave dead plants in the ground to be dealt with next spring. After all, isn’t it good to provide shelter for all those overwintering critters? When it comes to the veggie garden, it’s best to clear away all the dead and dying plant debris before winter as leaving it laying in the garden bed can harbor diseases and unwanted insects. Spent plants can be added to the compost pile, although you might want to exercise caution with diseased plants. If your compost pile doesn’t ‘heat up’ properly, the diseases won’t be killed off in the composting process and could spread to next year’s plants.

Tackle those weeds

When your garden is no longer filled to the gills with growing plants, the empty space gives weeds an opportunity to creep in. You might be inclined to ignore the weeds if you aren’t actively growing many crops, but if you leave them for spring they might drop more seeds or continue to grow and spread. Clear your garden of weeds before winter hits, so you can start off with a clean slate in spring.

Protect your plants

As the nights get frosty, you can extend your harvests by using season extension techniques- covering your plants so they can survive into fall (and even winter!) as long as possible. For perennial plants and trees, you may want to consider surrounding them with chicken wire to protect them from rabbits and deer that could come for a nibble over winter. Some plants can tolerate being overwintered indoors, so if you have a super-special plant that you really want to save you can potentially dig it up- look into instructions for overwintering that specific plant.

Plant garlic (for a crop next year)

One of the crops you should plant in the fall is garlic, for harvesting next year. Garlic sets can be purchased from garden centers, local farms, or online; hardneck varieties do best in colder climates whereas softneck varieties are suited for warmer climates. Separate out the largest, healthiest cloves and plant them roughly 3-4 weeks before the ground starts to freeze completely (check the How to Grow information in Planter for spacing and planting details!) You don’t want to plant too early, as the garlic could sprout and start trying to grow before winter. But if you plant too late the garlic will not have time to develop a healthy root system to survive winter.

Amend your soil

Fall is an excellent time to add some soil amendments, as it gives time for them to work into the soil and become available for next year’s plants. You might want to do a soil test before adding any amendments to know if you need to adjust the soil PH or adjust specific nutrients. Amendments such as compost, manure, and elements to raise or lower PH can be added in the fall, but do not apply nitrogen-rich fertilizer- nitrogen is prone to being leached away over the winter and can inadvertently stimulate a flush of growth on perennial plants that will get killed off in cold weather.

Add a fresh layer of mulch

Applying mulch to your garden in the fall helps to prevent soil erosion over the winter and provides food for the soil life that your garden needs to flourish. Plus, in the fall you’re likely to find lots of mulch readily available in the form of fallen tree leaves!

Show your garden tools some love

Your garden tools have served you well through the whole growing season- fall is an opportune time to show them some love. Wash, disinfect, and dry tools thoroughly. Sharpen any tools that need to be sharpening and apply oil to tools with moving parts. Store your tools in a clean, dry place where they’ll be ready to go for the spring!

Plan and build for next year’s garden

Most of us start dreaming and planning for next year’s garden in winter. But fall is the ideal time to use Planter to start planning your garden for next year! The challenges and successes of the current season will be fresh in your mind to incorporate into your upcoming year’s plans. You can even start building garden structures such as raised beds and trellises. If you get these structures built in fall you’ll have them at the ready for early spring planting. Bear in mind that the structures could shift around a bit over winter; if possible, store them in a garage or shed for a quick set-up come spring.

It’s easy to just abandon your garden in fall and wait for the next garden season. But taking care of these fall garden chores will help get your garden off to a good start next year (and keep your existing plants going just that little bit longer). So don’t hide inside this fall…pick a sunny, warm(ish) day and get out in the garden!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

What are Cold-Hardy Crops?

There are several cold-hardy crops that will grow in cooler temperatures and can withstand a mild frost or even a freeze. These plants are typically divided into two groups - semi-hardy which can tolerate a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and hardy which can tolerate heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). Not only do these plants withstand the colder temperatures, they actually grow best in the cooler weather.

Examples of semi-hardy crops include: carrots, beets, lettuce, cilantro, and peas.

Examples of hardy crops include: kale, spinach, garlic, chives, and parsley.

Use Planter to identify cool season plants that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant to frost! Select a plant and refer to the Season and Frost cards under Quick Info:

Note that cold-hardy crops are not to be confused with cole crops. Cole crops are members of the brassica family specifically- and while they do love the cold - they are just one family out of many that happen to enjoy cold weather.

When to Plant

Knowing when to plant cold-hardy crops can be tricky. Obviously, the ground should be workable. Aside from this how do you know when it is safe to plant? As a first step, check the Growing Calendar in Planter, to see when the crops you are interested in planting can be sown (or transplanted) outdoors in your area.

It’s a good idea to use a soil thermometer to measure the ground temperature to ensure it is warm enough for seeds to germinate. Seeds that are planted in soil that is too cold for them to germinate will absorb water without germinating, which leaves them susceptible to rot. Research the ideal soil temperatures to germinate the crops you are planning to grow.

Even if the ground is warm enough to plant, there is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate! There may still be a risk of extreme weather that could potentially kill off even the most hardy crops. To help avoid this, mulch the plants generously to protect them from the elements. Cover plants with plastic sheets or cloches if severe cold rolls in. Also, sow regular successions (‘waves’) of crops. If some plants do perish in the harsh spring conditions, planting in succession helps ensure there will be new plants growing up not far behind.

Caring for Cold Hardy Crops

Prior to planting cool season crops, prepare the bed by working in compost and a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer. Depending on the crop, you may need to re-apply fertilizer every several weeks.

Although it may not be warm out, still be on the lookout for dry conditions. If there isn’t enough rainfall, provide sufficient water to keep the ground consistently moist

Take full advantage of the early spring growing season - don’t miss out on delicious harvests of cold-hardy crops!