​Start with Structure​

When planning a garden from scratch, the best place to start is with “the bones.” The plants that give structure to a garden. Think hedges that offer privacy, trees that separate spaces, and tall shrubs that mark garden paths. ​Edible plants that offer structure:

​Hawthorn

Traditionally used for hedges because its spiky thorns act as a natural deterrent. In the fall, the berries feed wild birds.  The berries can be made into a jam or dried for tea.

​Fruit Trees

​Fruit trees can be planted for height in the back of a border. Dwarf tree varieties offer compact solutions for smaller gardens.  Many fruit trees can be trained in the style of espalier,  parallel tiers, to create a “living fence”. Pear and apple trees are perfect for this style of growing.

 ​Elderberry

Elderberry plants are good choices for the edible garden. In the spring, their flowers can be used to make fermented drinks or battered for a tasty spring treat. In the fall, their berries are packed with anthocyanins and are commonly used to make elderberry syrup. The birds love the berries too. Be sure to use the Sambucus nigra varieties and research the proper ways to prepare elderberries for consumption. ​

Mesquite Trees

​If you live in the Southwestern United States or Mexico, the mesquite tree (Prosopis spp.) is a lovely addition to an edible garden.  The pods are edible and have been harvested for centuries by indigenous people, who prepare and mill them into flour.  Pods can be harvested when they are ripe.  Mesquite pods must be properly dried before milling, so be sure to research this before attempting. Even if you don’t plan on using the pods, these trees are beautiful in a desert garden.

​Olive Trees

​Olive trees can give your garden a beautiful Mediterranean look, even if you don’t live in a warm environment. Olive trees can be grown in containers and protected over the winter months.  Olive trees look really nice with other edible Mediterranean plants like lavender and rosemary. ​

Second Layer

​After you’ve got your structure giving plants, it’s time to think about the next layer, which is usually medium-sized shrubs and perennials.

​Rosemary

Rosemary is great for the edible garden because it comes in many sizes. You can plant taller varieties like ‘Tuscan Blue’ to form short hedges or low-growing ones to create a spreading effect.

​Roses

Roses are a classic in any garden.  From climbers and ramblers, to floribundas and shrub types, there is a rose for everyone. The best roses for edible purposes are the species kinds like Rugosa. Dried rose petals make a lovely addition to tea blends or jellies. In the fall, rose hips look pretty, and you can make rose hip jams.

​Blueberry

Blueberry bushes can be a perfect edible plant for beauty, as long as you give them the right conditions. Blueberry bushes prefer acidic soil.  Blueberries can be grown in containers.  In the autumn, the leaves offer seasonal color interest.

​Lavender

Lavender is a top choice for the edible garden because it’s very easy to grow in the right environment. It thrives in very warm weather and plenty of sun, but most importantly, the roots have very good drainage. Lavender buds are highly fragrant and used in baking, cooking, making syrups, and teas. Use English (angustifolia) varieties for culinary use. Other types can have a more “soapy” flavor and are better used for aromatherapy. ​

The Last Layer

The final layer is of course, plants that are short, low-growing, or groundcover. Let’s explore a few:​

Lingonberry

​Lingonberries are related to blueberries and cranberries, native to Scandinavia, Europe, and northern areas of the United States, such as Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  Lingonberries are a unique plant to grow and are starting to appear around some nurseries.  If you are looking to try something new and live in an area with cooler temperatures and acidic soil, why not grow a few lingonberry plants as groundcover?   Lingonberries can be grown in the same area as blueberries, too.  The shiny leaves are evergreen, providing year-round interest. The little red berries are tart and similar in taste to cranberries. Although you’d need quite a few productive plants to really make a good harvest, the lingonberry is a fun plant to add to an edible garden. ​

Thyme

Thyme is such a versatile plant: a culinary herb, a medicinal herb, good for pollinators, and an ornamental. Grow thyme as an attractive ground cover or between pavers or pathways. ​

Oregano​

Oregano is similar to thyme in terms of versatility.  Little white flowers are great for pollinators and add beauty to the garden. ​

More Ideas​

• Grow a combination of climbing edibles like tomatoes and nasturtiums up a trellis for a colorful centerpiece of the garden​.

• Rhubarb plants make a statement in the spring with their red and green combination​.

• Create a veggie tunnel by growing cucumbers, squash, or extra small pumpkins over an arched trellis.

• Add plants for movement, but instead of grass, choose fennel, dill, and asparagus, which will wave in the wind. ​

  

• More edibles to landscape with: citrus trees, chives, sunflowers, dahlias, calendula, lilac, and hostas.

  

​With edible landscaping, you get to enjoy your garden with all of your senses!  Start planning your dream foodie garden today with the Planter App.

Sometimes, I just want to grow onions that are literally called Walla Walla. Don’t mind me if I do.

So let’s meet the extended Allium family; the spicy, teary-eyed relatives you know, the ancient ones you didn’t expect, and the perennial oddballs that keep coming back.

The Long History of Onions

Onions are among the oldest cultivated vegetables in the world. Archaeological evidence shows they were grown in Central Asia and the Middle East over 5,000 years ago. Ancient Egyptians adored them: onions were buried with pharaohs, symbolizing eternal life thanks to their endless rings. The Greeks trained athletes on diets full of onions, while the Romans believed onions improved strength and courage.

By the Middle Ages, onions were so valuable in Europe that they were used to pay rent and even given as wedding gifts. (Romantic, right? “Honey, I got you… onions.”)

Garlic, leeks, and chives share similar pedigrees, all part of the Allium family, which includes over 900 species worldwide. Today, we mostly lean on a few supermarket staples, but the family tree is much richer.

The Classics: Bulbing Alliums

• Yellow Onion: The global workhorse. Strong flavor, long storage.
• Red Onion: Likely originating from the Meditarranean. Sweeter, milder and beautiful raw in salads. Though less storable.
• White onion: Popular in Latin American cooking for centuries. Sharper, spicier, but with shorter shelf life.
• Shallots: Brought to Europe by Crusaders from the Middle East. Cluster-forming, sweet and subtle.
• Cipollini Onions: From Italy, bred for their high sugar content.

The Perennial Oddballs

• Welsh Onion (Allium fistulosum): Despite the name, this perennial comes from China, cultivated there for over 1,000 years. Never bulbs, just keeps giving green shoots every spring.
• Egyptian Walking Onion (Allium x proliferum): A medieval European curiosity, this hybrid reproduces via little bulbs that topple over and ‘walk’ across your garden.
• Chives (Allium Schoenoprasum): Native to both Europe and Asia, chives have been harvested since the Middle Ages. Their purple pompoms attract pollinators while you snip the leaves.
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum): Cultivated since ancient Egypt and Rome, leeks are mild and just awesome.

The Surprise Alliums

Not everything onion-y looks like an onion!

• Scallions / Spring Onions (young Allium cepa): Harvested before bulbing, these are basically teenage onions. Tender, mild, and fast-growing. Many people don’t realize they’re just “unfinished onions.” 
• Garlic: Traced back over 4,000 years, used in medicine and rituals. Egyptians fed it to pyramid builders for strength.
• Ornamental Alliums: Those tall garden fireworks with purple globe flowers? Still onions. They were first popularized in Victorian ornamental gardens.

Why do onions make us cry?

It’s all chemistry.

1. Cutting an onion breaks its cells
2. Those cells release an enzyme called alliinase
3. Alliinase reacts with sulfur compounds (absorbed from the soil) to produce ‘syn-Propanethial-S-Oxide’ (a volatile gas). Perfect word for when you’re playing Hangman.
4. That volatile gas drifts upward, stinging your eyes. Your tear glands release water to flush it out.

Cooking, chilling or soaking onions in water before chopping can reduce that reaction! But in short: onions evolved chemical tear gas to discourage predators.

Which makes me suddenly realize that I’m the predator here. Chopping through their defenses every evening. Now I feel kinda bad for the fam. 

Why plant diverse Alliums?

Each variety in the Allium family brings its own flavor to the table, from the fiery kick of white onions to the candy-like sweetness of Cipollini. By mixing annuals with perennials, you can enjoy harvests almost all year round. 

Growing heirloom varieties also means you’re keeping history alive in your garden, connecting directly to thousands of years of food culture! It’s not just about the kitchen either; ornamental Alliums draw in pollinators, while diversity in your beds makes your crops more resilient and less likely to be wiped out by disease.

Planting Now (September–October)

This is the perfect time to:

• Plant garlic cloves for harvest next summer.
• Plant shallot sets for gourmet bulbs by midsummer.
• Put in overwintering onion sets for an early summer harvest.
• Establish perennial Alliums like Welsh onions and walking onions.

Wanna know more about how to plant them? Check out this piece by Erin on** how to grow amazing Alliums,** full of practical tips to get your onion patch thriving.

Final Thought

The Allium family is ancient and diverse. From the reliable yellow onion to the flamboyant red, the wandering Egyptian, and the delicate chive, this clan has shaped kitchens and cultures for millennia. Planting a few new varieties this autumn means you’ll not only expand your harvest, you’ll also be growing a slice of history, resilience, and flavor that goes far beyond the supermarket net bag.

Like always, be mindful of the plants you eat. They’ve developed defenses, strategies, and quirks to make it this far. In their own way, they’re survivors, and a life, no matter how small, deserves respect.

It’s mid-July, and the breeze here in the mountains feels like a warm hug. Most folks are busy harvesting courgettes the size of baguettes and, no doubt, cursing their once-again runaway mint. I’m standing in my garden with a fresh cup of (yes, mint) tea and a question: What do I want to eat in the fall?

Because while summer is in full swing, this is actually the secret season to sow again. Gardening either keeps you fully in the moment or shoots your brain a few months into the future. That’s part of the deal, I guess. Especially up here at 900 meters altitude (zone 6-ish), where autumn comes with a whisper… and then a frost. No time in between.

So I thought I’d take you along. Let’s chat about what you can still plant now, and which crops are worth your time to make sure there’s still some harvest joy in the fall.

Let’s Talk About Frost, Baby

As we tiptoe toward fall, it’s a great time to start plotting your autumn garden. For an overview of the types of crops that are generally best suited for a fall garden, and how Planter can help you to double check the timing, have a read of the article: Don’t Forget Your Fall Garden.

One of my favorite newer(ish) Planter features? In the settings tab, Planter shows a countdown to your first expected fall frost, like a tiny ticking clock for gardeners. Super useful for figuring out what you can still grow in time… and also mildly panic-inducing (in the best way). Here’s mine:

My Fall Planting Picks

Ideally, I want to plant everything, have maximum diversity, and eat 23 different crunchy things in my salad bowls. But sometimes, less really is more. Expanding gradually keeps gardening fun and avoids unnecessary stress on both your soil and your (possibly receding) hairline.

With the internet offering a bazillion planting guides (plus whatever gardening books you’ve got lying around), there’s no shortage of info. For this round, I’m keeping it simple and using the Planter app to guide my choices. It already knows my local frost dates, and I love that you can filter for things like frost-tolerant crops or perennials. The Growing Calendar shows which crops you can still plant, and how much time you’ve got left to do it.

So, without further rambling… 

Here are some of the fast-growing cool-season crops I’ve chosen for an abundant fall harvest in the mountains!

1. Mâche (Lamb’s Lettuce). The absolute fall classic in Germany. To not plant it? Unthinkable.

2. Kohlrabi (early varieties). Great raw or marinated as veggie “kebab.”

3. Spinach. Always good. Especially the cold-hardy types.

4. Cilantro. Yes, even now! It handles light frost just fine.

5. Kale. Might be a bit late, but I’m giving it a go for baby leaves (and planning a perennial kale tree next year!).

6. Mustard greens. Spicy when young, flavorful when cooked.

7. Carrots. Early varieties still make it if you plant now.

8. Radishes. Because color + crunch = salad joy.

9. Bok Choy. Quick to grow, great for stir-fries.

10. Wasabi Arugula. Want to keep it mild? Use young baby leaves. Want it spicier? Let the leaves get bigger or use the flower buds, they’re often even punchier.

A few slow-burners I’m adding anyway.  These won’t feed me this year, but they’re future-you gold:

• Black salsify (Scorzonera ‘Duplex’). Beautiful, weird, delicious root native to Europe.
• Garlic. Usually planted in mid-to-late October, but I might prep beds now and sneak in a little green garlic (early-harvested cloves).
• Chives. Super hardy, great for pollinators, and the purple flowers are edible too.
• Echinacea (Coneflower). Slow to establish, but gorgeous and medicinal.
• Rhubarb. If you’re feeling bold and patient (it’s worth it). 

What to Keep in Mind When Planting Now

1. Choose fast-growing or frost-tolerant crops Look for varieties that mature in 60 days or less, or that can handle light frost.
2. Sow directly in the soil Depending on where you live, it might too late for longer-growing transplants unless you’ve already got them ready. To be safe, I’m going with direct sowing only.
3. Germination can be tricky in summer heat Sow in the evening, water well, and consider adding light shade over freshly seeded areas to keep the soil cool.
4. Keep watering consistent Seeds and young plants need steady moisture, especially during warm July days.
5. Don’t overdo it It’s easy to get excited (hello, seed hoarders), but keep it simple and realistic to avoid overwhelm. Think: joy, not stress.

So there you have it, one last hurrah for the garden before the frost moves in.

Go sow something. Go be smug in October. You’ve got this.

Benefits of Growing Herbs in Containers:

• You don’t need a ton of gardening space.  You can grow herbs right on your patio.  You can grow herbs indoors, too, but they will thrive outside with fresh air and natural light. 
• You can easily control the growing conditions, like soil type and light requirements.
• For those with mobility challenges, container gardening can make accessibility easier.
• If you ever decide to move to a new location, your plants are ready for the move, too!
• Having your culinary herbs close by means you will use them more—no trudging to the garden in the summer heat for a sprig of rosemary.
• It makes your porch or patio look amazing.

Things to Consider: 

• When growing in containers, it’s good to remember that most plants need good drainage to thrive. Of course, some plants love moisture and can handle “wet feet,” but plants generally like drainage. So many times, I’ve gotten excited about a beautiful pot only to see it didn’t have a drainage hole at the bottom. In those cases, sometimes you can drill a drainage hole in the bottom. It’s also a good idea to elevate pots to keep them off the ground so they can drain properly.
• Before filling your pot, covering the drainage hole is helpful so the soil doesn’t spill out of the bottom. You can use landscaping fabric, pieces of mesh bird netting, a stack of coffee filters, or “crocks,” which are broken pieces of terra cotta pots. 
• When the weather is hot, you must monitor your container-grown plants to ensure they don’t dry out too much.
• If you plan on growing shrubs or small trees in pots, make sure you use a container that can handle some wind and not tip over easily. 
• Don’t plant your herbs in any pot that has the potential to leach toxins into the soil. For example, some pressure-treated woods may have chemicals that can be taken up by plants. Plastic is generally recognized as safe, although some people choose to stay away from it. 
• Strawberry pots are suitable for herbs that don’t mind too much confinement, like mint or basil. Trailing herbs like nasturtium also do well in strawberry pots. 

Basil

Basil does very well in pots and is easy to grow inside on a sunny window sill. Outside, basil does well in a location with full sun. Basil is a staple in Italian cuisine and a beloved medicinal herb in the Ayurvedic tradition. Holy basil, also known as Tulsi, makes a wonderful tea for the nervous system. The most frost-hardy variety of Tulsi is reported to be Ocimum africanum. Give your basil well-draining soil and keep it moist. Harvest all varieties of basil before the flowers bloom to keep the plant leafy and bushy. 

Catnip

Many cat owners grow catnip strictly for entertainment purposes.  A lot of cats get loopy after some whiffs of this mint family member. According to PetMd, when cats sniff catnip, they inhale a substance called nepetalactone, which triggers a release of natural opioids. But catnip isn’t just for cats; it’s also a great herbal companion for humans without the opioid interaction. It’s a gentle herb used to soothe digestion, calm fevers, and ease congestion. Catnip can be a vigorous spreader, but you can stop this by growing it in pots. Catnip prefers full sun and well-draining soil; do not overwater it. If you have cats (if you don’t, you’ll probably attract some neighborhood cats), you might need to protect the plant from being munched down to stubs and knocked over. Don’t overlook your dog, too.  My dog is famous for taking down a plant in one bite (it’s not recommended to allow this happen though)! You can put a little cage over catnip if it’s getting too much attention. Sometimes a cage isn’t enough though. If anyone has a pet-proofing plan for catnip, please let the Planter team know below!

Chamomile (German)

If you want to add chamomile to your garden but don’t want a lot of chamomile babies popping up next year, try growing it in a container. A 12-inch pot is a good size for one plant.  German chamomile isn’t very picky about soil or light, and it can take some shade, but I believe it blooms better in a sunny location.  You don’t need to worry about fertilizing chamomile either. No wonder this fuss-free flower has a reputation for relaxation. 

Chives

Chives are a familiar favorite in the kitchen garden. They can have a warming effect on digestion, so they are a great food herb to add to dishes. The beautiful blossoms can be picked and infused in vinegar for a yummy salad dressing or marinade. Chives love rich, moist soil. Make sure to add some all-purpose fertilizer to your container before planting.

Ginger

Ginger is a fun herb to grow at home. Try starting ginger from roots you get at the grocery store. Ginger grows outward. You can use a shallow pot, but it needs to be wide. The absolute must for container-grown ginger is good drainage! Ginger is very susceptible to rotting if there isn’t sufficient drainage. Ginger loves consistently moist and fertile soil, so keep an eye on this plant all summer. Keep it out of direct sunlight too.

Lavender

Lavender is a Mediterranean native, so it loves free-draining, gravelly, sandy soil, meaning it can thrive in a container.  Their root system can be pretty big, so choose a pot that will be large enough as it grows.  Mix equal parts of regular potting soil and perlite to ensure good drainage.  To avoid root rot, elevate your pot with an elevator on wheels or the “pot feet” that lift the pot off of the ground. Lavender needs full sun, so give it a spot with prime sun access. There are so many varieties and sizes of lavender.  The “dwarf” varieties are compact and perfect for a small patio garden. 

Licorice

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) has a distinct flavor that not everyone enjoys, but humans have used licorice for a long time. Originally used for brewing beer and for use in medieval apothecaries, licorice root began to flavor sweets in Yorkshire, England, hundreds of years ago, and it is still used in some brands of black licorice candy. Many teas contain licorice root because it has so many uses in herbal remedies. Licorice is a very slow-growing plant, and it can take a long time until you get enough roots to make it worthwhile to dry and use, but it’s still fun to grow some in a pot.  Licorice seems to prefer a pot that allows ample room to grow.  It likes full sun and very well-draining soil conditions(keep it watered but don’t overdo it).  Move your pot to a sheltered place if it’s very wet during your winters.  Licorice is slow to return in the spring and sometimes looks dead before it gets buds in later spring (at least, this has been my experience). Harvest licorice root in its third year. You can propagate it by root division in the spring.

Spilanthes

Buzz buttons. Electric daisies. Toothache plant. Eyeball plant. Spilanthes (Acmella oleracea) has many unique names and is a fun herb to grow! One tiny taste of this unusual flower will tingle up your tongue and mouth. It’s hard to fully describe the feeling, but one try, and you’ll understand why “buzz” buttons and “electric” daisies are nicknames.  Toothache plant isn’t a substitute for a trip to the dentist, but a swish of the tinctured plant can offer some relief for toothaches, due to the numbing sensation it gives. If you can’t find spilanthes in your area, it is pretty easy to grow from seed and it can thrive in containers. Grow it in full sun and very rich soil, and ensure it gets watered regularly. 

Thyme

Another Mediterranean native, thyme, does exceptionally well in pots!  There are so many varieties and flavors to choose from, such as orange thyme, lemon thyme, French thyme, oregano thyme, and more.  Whatever variety you decide on, make sure to give it good drainage and not-so-fertile gravelly soil. Thyme likes full sun.

Willow

Sometimes called nature’s aspirin because of its high salicin content, willow bark has a long history of use in folk medicine. Willow trees can grow very big and very quickly. They love to grow along streams and wet places.  There is a dwarf variety that doesn’t mind growing in pots (as long as you upsize the pot as needed), which is the purple willow.  You can grow this willow in regular potting soil.  Purple willow can handle part shade or full sun, just keep its roots as cool and moist as possible. I have been growing purple willow in a pot for a few years, and my pot does not have a drainage hole. Even when the container gets full of rainwater, the shrub does not seem to mind. The inner bark of willow is usually harvested in the spring and then dried. Use pruned willow branches for basket weaving or making plant trellises. Propagating willow is easy, and if you put a clipping directly in the ground and keep it watered, it should root! Willow is good for making living fences by propagation.

Experiment with Other Herbs

Many other herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lemongrass, aloe, green tea, and violets, also do well in pots. If you don’t have space for a garden bed, but there’s an herb you want to grow, there’s no harm in testing it out to see if it can thrive in a pot. Taking chances and experimenting is what gardening is all about!

Do all veggie plants need full sun?

For the most part, vegetable plants grow and produce best in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day). Veggie plants need ample sun to be able to photosynthesize and grow as quickly as possible- a lack of sun may not outright kill them but it can severely stunt their growth. But there are some plants that will still produce a respectable harvest in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun per day). Gardening successfully in part shade comes down to being selective about what you choose to grow and having realistic expectations about how much you’ll be able to harvest.

If your potential garden location is in near total shade and gets only a few hours of sun each day, you may want to skip down the Alternatives to gardening in part shade section of this article. While you can certainly have fun experimenting with growing edible plants in shade (you might even discover some non-traditional edible plants that grow well in shade), you’ll likely only be able to muster up a meager harvest.

Veggie plants to grow in part shade

Lettuce and leafy greens

Lettuce and other leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are star performers in the shade. Growing them in part shade can even have some benefits, as blazing summer sun can contribute to them bolting. To get the plants off to a good start you may want to consider starting them indoors then transplanting out to the shadier parts of your garden. It can be challenging to get lettuce to form full-sized heads in part-shade, but you can certainly harvest it as cut-and-come-again lettuce.

Green onions and chives

‘Bulbing onions’ require full sun to form their large, edible bulbs, however green onions and chives are excellent shady garden plants because they are primarily harvested for their slender, pungent greens. While they will produce best in full sun, you can tuck them into shady spots and still harvest enough to make the effort worthwhile. To learn more about growing these and other allium-family crops be sure to check out Grow Amazing Alliums.

Radishes

By now you might be noticing a theme with shady-garden plant picks: they tend to be green and leafy. Radishes can add a nice burst of color to an otherwise monotone shady salad garden. Radishes can still form nice-sized roots when grown in part shade- although it might take longer than usual for the bulbs to form. Be careful not to use too much high-nitrogen fertilizer where you plant radishes, as this will stimulate them to form lush leafy tops and tiny roots. If this does happen all is not lost- radish greens are edible too!

Beets

Like radishes, beets are another root crop that can be grown in partial shade. The roots of shade-grown beets will likely be smaller than their full-sun counterparts, but you can always roast them whole and just call them ultra-gourmet baby beets. Don’t leave beets in the ground for an excessively long time hoping that massive roots will form- they might just turn woody and tough instead. Beet greens are also totally delicious in salads or sauteed, so if you do find the bulbs are too diminutive the greens will not disappoint!

Brassicas (such as broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale)

Brassicas can be grown in part-shade locations- but they must receive at minimum 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. If your location has dappled sun throughout the day, you may want to avoid growing brassicas there. Because brassicas, like leafy greens, are prone to bolting under stress caused by heat and drought, growing them in shade may help to delay this. Patience is key as brassicas are already slow-growing crops and they will grow even more slowly in the shade. You likely will not be able to get super-sized heads to form on your broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, but it’s at least possible to grow small, tender heads. Start brassicas indoors to give them the best possible chance to grow and reach maturity in the shade.

Peas

While peas perform best when in full sun, you can still get a harvest if they’re planted in part shade. You might even be able to trellis your climbing peas so that the plants are able to climb out of the shade to reach more sun. It is important to plant your peas with enough time for them to reach maturity before the summer heat comes. While partial shade will help keep them cooler for longer, eventually they will stop flowering and producing peas in the summer’s heat. For more info on growing peas, check out Grow Awesome Legumes.

Certain herbs (such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley)

While Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and oregano prefer full sun and soil on the drier side, other herbs such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley don’t mind a bit of shade. The shade will help keep the soil moist and will help delay bolting. Trim (and cook with!) herbs planted in part-shade regularly to help keep the plants bushy and compact. And a special warning about mint: be sure to plant it in a container to keep it from spreading prolifically.

Alternatives to gardening in the shade

Container gardening

While your yard might be submerged in shade, perhaps there’s a sunny spot on a deck or front porch that could be a great spot to grow veggies in containers. Virtually every type of veggie can be grown in a container provided the container is large enough for the crop, and you water and fertilize regularly to keep the growing medium moist and full of nutrients. Containers can also be moved around as needed to capture the most amount of sun available as the sun’s angle changes.

Rent a community garden plot

If your house is in the middle of the deep woods your best bet for getting a sizable garden harvest could be to rent a plot at your local community garden. Community garden plots are typically very inexpensive to rent for an entire season and will let you grow sun-loving veggies much more successfully. If you garden in a community plot be sure to set reminders to water your garden when the weather’s hot and dry, as you won’t be able to check the state of your plants as easily as in a backyard garden.

Garden with neighbors and friends

If your neighbors and/or friends have unused backyard space that gets full sun exposure, try striking up a deal with them! If they let you use the space for gardening you can bestow them with tasty garden-grown produce throughout the season. If your friends happen to be gardening enthusiasts all the better- you can share the work, share knowledge, and share the reward!

Don’t let the semi-shaded parts of your garden be nothing more than wasted space. Maximize your harvests by growing some of these shade-tolerant plants and saving the full-sun spaces for sun-loving crops. Every harvest you can get from a shady space is a gardening win!

Onions (and Shallots)

Onions- the allium family namesake- can be harvested as ‘bulbing onions’ (including what we think of as yellow onions, white onions, and red onions) or as ‘bunching onions’ which are onions grown for their green tops.

To grow bulbing onions, it’s critical to determine whether to grow ‘long-day’ onions, ‘short-day’ onions, or ‘intermediate-day’ (‘day neutral’) onions. This depends on where you live and how many hours of daylight your garden receives in the summer:

• Short-day onions form the best bulbs in southern regions with 11-12 hours of sunlight each day
• Intermediate-day onions work well in regions that receive 12-14 hours sunlight
• Long-day onions will form bulbs in northern regions with 14 or more hours of sunlight (note shallots are typically grown as long-day onions)

Be sure to research bulbing onion varieties that are best suited for your area.

Onions can be grown from ‘sets’ which are small bulbs sold in bags, ‘starts’ which are small pre-started onion plants, or from seed. Sets are easy to work with but they may not produce bulbs as large as onions grown from starts and seeds. Starts are also easy to grow, however if you’re comfortable starting seeds indoors give onion seeds a try!

Onions can be planted outdoors before your last frost date, once the soil is workable. They should be planted about 1-1.5” deep into loose soil that will allow the bulbs to expand. Some gardeners advocate “spooning” onions - scooping some soil out from around the bulb to encourage it to grow outwards. This is not necessary, but if you have the time go for it!

Onions are ready to harvest once the leaves start to flop over. Pull the onions out of the ground, snip off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

Chives

If you’re looking for the easiest allium to grow, be sure to plant some chives! Chives are hardy perennial herbs that will keep coming back year after year. Chives can be grown from seeds or purchased as transplants. Or, if you have a neighbor growing chives, ask if you could divide them and take a small clump to plant!

Chives are best planted in spring, as they flourish in cooler temperatures- you may find their growth stalls in the summer only to come back again in fall. They like loose, well draining soil and while they are drought-tolerant, they do best with consistent moisture. To harvest chives, simply use garden snips to trim off some leaves near the base of the plant. Chives have a mild onion flavor- similar to green onion but more delicate. Later in spring chives will produce beautiful flower blooms- these are edible too and have the same subtle onion-y flavor!

Leeks

Leeks tend to be an expensive gourmet ingredient, but you can grow them in your garden for next to nothing! They are surprisingly easy to grow and have a very unique, gentle onion flavor. Like onions, leeks can be grown from seeds or starts. Leeks with long white stems are prized in the kitchen-  the green parts are usually discarded or used for soup stock. To get the desirable white stems they need to be ‘blanched’ - that is covered and protected from the sun. There are a few ways to achieve this: one is by using a tool called a dibber to make holes 6” deep in the soil - into which you can insert young leek plants. Mulch or dry soil can also be hilled up around the leek stems, or cardboard tubes can be used.

One thing to keep in mind is leeks can take a very long time to grow- be sure to plant them with enough time to mature and plan your garden space accordingly.

Garlic

If you enjoy cooking with garlic it is absolutely worthwhile to add garlic to your garden- the flavor of home-grown garlic is incomparable! For best results garlic should be planted in the fall within two weeks of your first frost date. In a pinch garlic can also be planted once the soil is workable in spring, just be aware that the bulbs will not grow as large. When it comes to choosing garlic varieties it’s important to look for varieties that are adapted to your region. ‘Softneck’ garlic varieties tend to be grown in warmer climates where ‘hardneck’ varieties tend to be grown in colder climates, as they require a prolonged period of cold temperatures (although this can be replicated in the fridge if you are growing in a warm climate or planting in spring). There is also ‘elephant garlic’ which is technically a leek even though it forms bulbs like garlic.

When planting garlic be sure to separate the bulbs into individual cloves, but leave the papery skins on each clove. Plant with the pointed end up/flat end down. How deep to plant your garlic depends on where you live - in colder climates it can be beneficial to plant your garlic up to 4” deep to protect it from winter chill, but in less extreme climates 2-3” is sufficient. Garlic can also be mulched to help protect it over the winter- if using mulch you may not need to plant quite as deep.

Garlic will emerge and start to grow in springtime. Hardneck garlic will shoot up a curly stem with a flower bud on top called a ‘scape’. Garlic scapes should be removed when they start to curl, to allow the plant to focus energy on bulb development. Garlic scapes are delicious and can be used in any recipe that calls for garlic!

Garlic is ready to harvest once several of its leaves start to wither and die. In some cases garlic can be pulled directly from the soil and in other cases a pitchfork might be in order! Cut off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

While tomatoes, peppers, and other summer favorites often take center stage in the garden, be sure to save space for alliums- they’re the ultimate low effort, high reward crop!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

Why Add Herbs to Your Garden

Herbs pack a major flavor punch in a dainty package and greatly enhance any dish you add them to. The price of fresh herbs at the grocery store can make you flinch - ‘do I really need fresh thyme in that dish?’ But if you have a flourishing herb garden, you will be looking for new and creative ways to use them rather than shying away! Herbs also contain vitamins and minerals and offer many health benefits.

Most herbs are quite easy to grow. They can thrive in nutrient-poor soil and some even prefer to dry out slightly! And herbs benefit your garden overall- they are great companion plants that can help ward off pests and attract beneficial insects and pollinators.

How to Select Herbs for your Garden

The first thing to consider when deciding which herbs to plant is what herbs do you like to eat? If you don’t regularly enjoy eating it, don’t bother growing it (unless you are experimenting with something new!)

Some herbs, such as mint, are perennials that can come back every year. Some perennial herbs may not be able to withstand winter in your area though, so be sure to confirm that the specific varieties you select are hardy in your growing zone. There are also herbs, such as dill, that are prolific self-seeders that will likely regrow each year.

Perennial and self-seeding herbs can be an asset in your garden if they are planted in a convenient location. Be warned, though, that some of these herbs can take over your garden if they are not contained. Bear this in mind when choosing which herbs to plant and where to plant them.

How to Plant and Care for Herbs

Some herbs can be easily started from seed, and some can even be propagated from cuttings. Others can be more tricky to grow from scratch, but buying herb plants from your local garden center still provides a great return on your investment.

Generally, herbs prefer a full-sun location and very well-draining soil. If you are growing in heavy clay soil it will need amending with compost and sand. Different herbs can have unique preferred growing conditions, however. Even though it looks enticing to plant a variety of herbs together, check their unique growing needs in Planter and avoid grouping herbs with very different needs in the same space.

You may opt to grow herbs in containers to have better control of the growing conditions. Planting herbs in containers also has the advantage of helping to control spread (except for rogue seeds!) If you do plant your herbs in containers, be sure they have drainage holes or use fabric pots that allow excess water to drain. You will need to water herbs in containers more often than if they were planted in the ground or in larger raised beds. Containers will also need extra care over the winter. Bring them into a garage or shed to help protect them, and bear in mind that perennial herbs will be less winter-hardy if they are grown in containers.

Regardless of whether you plant in-ground or in containers, it helps to have your herbs in a location that is handy to the kitchen. Otherwise you might not be inclined to go harvest them when you are in the middle of cooking!

When it comes to caring for herbs often less is more. Many herbs do not like to be overwatered and prefer to dry out between waterings, and as a general rule herbs need minimal fertilizing. There are always exceptions though, so be sure to check Planter for watering and fertilizing recommendations for the herbs you grow.

When your herbs are ready to harvest, don’t be afraid to give them a haircut! Herbs thrive with a regular trim; it helps them be more productive. Just don’t cut away more than one third of the plant at once. Check out the harvesting and storage tips in Planter to get the most out of your herbs:

Include your favorite herbs in your garden, and enjoy harvesting the freshest possible herbs right outside your door!

What are Cold-Hardy Crops?

There are several cold-hardy crops that will grow in cooler temperatures and can withstand a mild frost or even a freeze. These plants are typically divided into two groups - semi-hardy which can tolerate a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and hardy which can tolerate heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). Not only do these plants withstand the colder temperatures, they actually grow best in the cooler weather.

Examples of semi-hardy crops include: carrots, beets, lettuce, cilantro, and peas.

Examples of hardy crops include: kale, spinach, garlic, chives, and parsley.

Use Planter to identify cool season plants that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant to frost! Select a plant and refer to the Season and Frost cards under Quick Info:

Note that cold-hardy crops are not to be confused with cole crops. Cole crops are members of the brassica family specifically- and while they do love the cold - they are just one family out of many that happen to enjoy cold weather.

When to Plant

Knowing when to plant cold-hardy crops can be tricky. Obviously, the ground should be workable. Aside from this how do you know when it is safe to plant? As a first step, check the Growing Calendar in Planter, to see when the crops you are interested in planting can be sown (or transplanted) outdoors in your area.

It’s a good idea to use a soil thermometer to measure the ground temperature to ensure it is warm enough for seeds to germinate. Seeds that are planted in soil that is too cold for them to germinate will absorb water without germinating, which leaves them susceptible to rot. Research the ideal soil temperatures to germinate the crops you are planning to grow.

Even if the ground is warm enough to plant, there is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate! There may still be a risk of extreme weather that could potentially kill off even the most hardy crops. To help avoid this, mulch the plants generously to protect them from the elements. Cover plants with plastic sheets or cloches if severe cold rolls in. Also, sow regular successions (‘waves’) of crops. If some plants do perish in the harsh spring conditions, planting in succession helps ensure there will be new plants growing up not far behind.

Caring for Cold Hardy Crops

Prior to planting cool season crops, prepare the bed by working in compost and a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer. Depending on the crop, you may need to re-apply fertilizer every several weeks.

Although it may not be warm out, still be on the lookout for dry conditions. If there isn’t enough rainfall, provide sufficient water to keep the ground consistently moist

Take full advantage of the early spring growing season - don’t miss out on delicious harvests of cold-hardy crops!