It’s peak harvest season, folks! If you’ve ever watched RedLeaf Ranch on YouTube, you can probably hear him yelling it already: “ABUNDANCE!”

Because that’s exactly what many of us are experiencing in our gardens right now. The beds are bursting with produce and while it’s a blessing, it can also be a bit… overwhelming. There’s only so much we can eat fresh. Last year, this was my spicy pepper harvest and yes, even my biceps were feeling a little overwhelmed!

Now, picture yourself as a farmer hundreds of years ago. You’ve just harvested a mountain of pepper but there’s no fridge, no freezer, and winter is coming. What do you do?

You slice the peppers, mix them with some salt, and pack them tightly into a jar. Then, something begins to happen. Over the next few days or weeks, that simple mix transforms: preserving the food and turning it into something tangy, nourishing, and full of flavor that lasts well into the cold months.

That, my friends, is the ancient, funky, and fabulous method known as: lacto-fermentation. In this piece, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know. It’s going to be a long one, so get cozy and buckle up!

What Is Lacto-Fermentation, Anyway?

Long before refrigerators, pressure canners, or supermarket jars lined with preservatives, people needed ways to keep their food from spoiling, especially during and after harvest season. One of the most brilliant solutions they discovered, perhaps even by accident, was lacto-fermentation: a natural, biological process that not only preserves food, but also transforms its flavor, texture, and nutritional value.

Lacto-fermentation is a type of fermentation driven by beneficial bacteria, especially those from the Lactobacillus family. These microbes are found naturally on the surface of vegetables, in soil, and even in our own guts.

During lacto-fermentation, Lactobacillus bacteria convert the natural sugars and starches in food into lactic acid, a compound that:

• Lowers the pH of the environment (making it more acidic)
• Inhibits spoilage by preventing the growth of harmful microbes
• Creates complex, tangy flavors
• Preserves the food for weeks or even months
• Produces probiotics, which may support gut health and immune function

Despite the name, “lacto” refers to lactic acid, not lactose. So, it’s totally dairy-free unless dairy is used as the base (like in yoghurt or cheese).

What Happens Step by Step?

At its core, it’s super simple: veggies + salt + water + time = magic.

No vinegar. No heat. Just naturally occurring good bacteria that feast on your vegetables’ sugars and transform them into tangy, probiotic powerhouses.Here’s what actually happens: 

1. Salt the veggies: You start by mixing vegetables (like cabbage, carrots, or cucumbers) with salt. This draws water out of the plant cells and helps create a brine.
2. Pack into a jar: The vegetables are pressed under their own brine in a container with as little air as possible, a low-oxygen (anaerobic) environment.
3. Bad microbes are suppressed: The salty, low-oxygen brine prevents harmful bacteria and molds from growing.
4. Good microbes thrive: Lactobacillus and its friends (like Leuconostoc and Pediococcus) love salty, oxygen-poor conditions and begin to multiply.
5. Fermentation begins: These bacteria eat the sugars in your vegetables and convert them into lactic acid and other metabolites.
6. Over time: The flavor deepens. Most ferments are ready within a few days to a few weeks, depending on the temperature, salt concentration, and type of vegetable.

Why Lacto-Fermented Foods Are So Good for You

Not to get too detailed, but lacto-fermentation doesn’t just keep food from going bad, it makes it better for your gut and easier for your body to absorb.

Some Key Benefits:

• Rich in probiotics. Supports a healthy gut microbiome, which is linked to digestion, mood, and immunity.
• Boosts your immune system. About 70–80% of your immune cells are in your gut, so a healthy gut = stronger immunity.
• Improves nutrient absorption. Fermentation breaks down phytates and other “anti-nutrients” that can block mineral absorption. This helps your body absorb more iron, zinc, calcium, and magnesium.
• Increases vitamin levels. Fermented foods often contain more B-vitamins, vitamin C, and vitamin K2, which are essential for energy, immunity, and bone health.
• Easier to digest. Fermentation begins breaking down complex carbs, fiber, and proteins, making foods gentler on the digestive system (especially helpful for sensitive guts).

A Global Tradition

Lacto-fermentation has been practiced for thousands of years, and is deeply woven into the culinary and cultural fabric of societies across the globe. Here are a few iconic examples you might already know:

Sauerkraut - Central & Eastern Europe

That tangy cabbage the farmer and his family were snacking on? That’s sauerkraut: a word that comes from the German sauer (sour) and kraut (cabbage).

For generations, sauerkraut was a winter essential in German, Polish, and Hungarian households. It wasn’t just food, it was survival. My partner is German, and his father still tells stories about how sauerkraut was a staple during the cold months of his childhood. For him it’s not only packed with vitamin C but also with lots of nostalgia. 

Kimchi - Korea

This national dish, made with fermented napa cabbage or radish, garlic, ginger, and gochugaru (Korean chili), is estimated to be over 4,000 years old. Kimchi is so central to Korean culture that it’s recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. When Korea launched its first astronaut into space in 2008, they made sure to send kimchi with him. 

Pickles - Global, but especially Eastern Europe & North America

There’s a whole world of pickles out there. The word pickle comes from the Dutch pekel, meaning brine. While many modern pickles are made with vinegar (aka “quick pickles”), traditional ones are wild and alive: fermented slowly with just salt, water, and time. These are known as:

• Kosher dills (Eastern European Jewish tradition)
• Sour pickles (New York deli-style)
• Ogórki kiszone (Polish)
• Malosolnie (Russian lightly fermented cukes)

Each culture adds its own twist: garlic, dill, oak leaves, horseradish, grape leaves,  to create flavor and crunch.

So, What Can YOU Make? 

You can lacto-ferment almost any fresh vegetable, root, or garden crop. Think garlic, carrots, radishes, beans, beets, cauliflower, green tomatoes, or cucumbers. The method is simple:

1. Chop or grate your veggies (or leave them whole if they’re small).
2. Add salt. Around 2% of the total weight of the vegetables (e.g. 20g salt per 1kg veggies). This draws out moisture and creates the right environment for good bacteria to thrive. Make sure to use non-iodized salt (like sea salt or pickling salt). Iodine and anti-caking agents in regular table salt can inhibit fermentation by slowing down the beneficial bacteria.
3. Pack tightly into a clean jar, pressing the vegetables down so they release their juices.
4. If the veggies don’t release enough liquid to fully submerge, top up with filtered water until everything is covered.
5. Weigh them down using a fermentation weight or a small clean jar, so the veggies stay submerged in the brine.
6. Cover loosely (with a lid or cloth) to let gases escape, and let ferment at room temperature (65-72°F or 18–22°C) for 5–14 days, depending on taste and ambient temperature. I have accidentally forgotten some of my ferments for quite a bit longer than that, and they turned out even better than I hoped! 
7. Once it smells sour and tastes good to you, move it to the fridge to slow fermentation and enjoy!

Note: You could also use fruit, but if you let fruit ferment too long or if wild yeast takes over, it can start to turn into alcohol (aka fruit wine). Which is fun, but not quite what you’re aiming for with lacto-fermentation!

How to Store Ferments Long-Term

Once your lacto-ferment tastes just right (tangy, sour, delicious), it’s time to slow down the fermentation to preserve it.

The basics:

• Refrigerate it: Move the jar to the fridge (or a cool cellar if you have one under 50°F or 10°C). Cold temperatures slow fermentation to almost a stop.
• Keep veggies submerged: Make sure everything stays under the brine, even in the fridge. This keeps mold away and preserves flavor.
• Use a clean utensil every time: Never dip in with fingers, this prevents contamination.

How long does it last?

• Most ferments will stay good for several months in the fridge, often even 6 months to a year, depending on:
• Salt level (more salt = longer preservation)
• Veggie type (firm veggies last longer)
• Storage temperature (colder = better)

Want to store it really long?

• Ferment in large batches, keep sealed jars in a cold cellar or fridge.
• You can also can fermented foods using water-bath canning, but note: this kills probiotics, so it’s good for flavor and shelf-life, but not for gut health.

! Safety Guidelines !

It’s incredibly important to follow safety guidelines when working on projects like these, especially if you’re just getting started.

Fermenting at home can be simple, safe, and deeply rewarding, as long as you stick to a few key rules. These help make sure your food stays healthy, delicious, and safe to enjoy. 

1. Always use clean utensils and jars to avoid contamination.
2. Make sure all vegetables stay fully submerged in the brine. Exposure to air can lead to mold.
3. A thin white film (called kahm yeast) is harmless, but fuzzy mold (green, black, or pink) is a sign to throw it out. The Fermentation Podcast has an entire piece dedicated to mold, definitely worth a read! Checking it out here!
4. If it smells rotten or off (not just sour), don’t eat it.
5. Keep ferments out of direct sunlight during the process.
6. Once opened or ready, store in the refrigerator.

Remember: If it looks, smells, or tastes truly off: trust your gut and don’t eat it. A good ferment should smell pleasantly sour and make you want to dig in!

It would make us super-duper happy to see what you’ve been fermenting!

If you feel like sharing your creations, asking questions, or just chatting about funky jars and bubbly brine, come say hi on or tag us on Facebook or Instagram @planterapp. We’d love to see what’s bubbling in your kitchen! :)

It’s mid-July, and the breeze here in the mountains feels like a warm hug. Most folks are busy harvesting courgettes the size of baguettes and, no doubt, cursing their once-again runaway mint. I’m standing in my garden with a fresh cup of (yes, mint) tea and a question: What do I want to eat in the fall?

Because while summer is in full swing, this is actually the secret season to sow again. Gardening either keeps you fully in the moment or shoots your brain a few months into the future. That’s part of the deal, I guess. Especially up here at 900 meters altitude (zone 6-ish), where autumn comes with a whisper… and then a frost. No time in between.

So I thought I’d take you along. Let’s chat about what you can still plant now, and which crops are worth your time to make sure there’s still some harvest joy in the fall.

Let’s Talk About Frost, Baby

As we tiptoe toward fall, it’s a great time to start plotting your autumn garden. For an overview of the types of crops that are generally best suited for a fall garden, and how Planter can help you to double check the timing, have a read of the article: Don’t Forget Your Fall Garden.

One of my favorite newer(ish) Planter features? In the settings tab, Planter shows a countdown to your first expected fall frost, like a tiny ticking clock for gardeners. Super useful for figuring out what you can still grow in time… and also mildly panic-inducing (in the best way). Here’s mine:

My Fall Planting Picks

Ideally, I want to plant everything, have maximum diversity, and eat 23 different crunchy things in my salad bowls. But sometimes, less really is more. Expanding gradually keeps gardening fun and avoids unnecessary stress on both your soil and your (possibly receding) hairline.

With the internet offering a bazillion planting guides (plus whatever gardening books you’ve got lying around), there’s no shortage of info. For this round, I’m keeping it simple and using the Planter app to guide my choices. It already knows my local frost dates, and I love that you can filter for things like frost-tolerant crops or perennials. The Growing Calendar shows which crops you can still plant, and how much time you’ve got left to do it.

So, without further rambling… 

Here are some of the fast-growing cool-season crops I’ve chosen for an abundant fall harvest in the mountains!

1. Mâche (Lamb’s Lettuce). The absolute fall classic in Germany. To not plant it? Unthinkable.

2. Kohlrabi (early varieties). Great raw or marinated as veggie “kebab.”

3. Spinach. Always good. Especially the cold-hardy types.

4. Cilantro. Yes, even now! It handles light frost just fine.

5. Kale. Might be a bit late, but I’m giving it a go for baby leaves (and planning a perennial kale tree next year!).

6. Mustard greens. Spicy when young, flavorful when cooked.

7. Carrots. Early varieties still make it if you plant now.

8. Radishes. Because color + crunch = salad joy.

9. Bok Choy. Quick to grow, great for stir-fries.

10. Wasabi Arugula. Want to keep it mild? Use young baby leaves. Want it spicier? Let the leaves get bigger or use the flower buds, they’re often even punchier.

A few slow-burners I’m adding anyway.  These won’t feed me this year, but they’re future-you gold:

• Black salsify (Scorzonera ‘Duplex’). Beautiful, weird, delicious root native to Europe.
• Garlic. Usually planted in mid-to-late October, but I might prep beds now and sneak in a little green garlic (early-harvested cloves).
• Chives. Super hardy, great for pollinators, and the purple flowers are edible too.
• Echinacea (Coneflower). Slow to establish, but gorgeous and medicinal.
• Rhubarb. If you’re feeling bold and patient (it’s worth it). 

What to Keep in Mind When Planting Now

1. Choose fast-growing or frost-tolerant crops Look for varieties that mature in 60 days or less, or that can handle light frost.
2. Sow directly in the soil Depending on where you live, it might too late for longer-growing transplants unless you’ve already got them ready. To be safe, I’m going with direct sowing only.
3. Germination can be tricky in summer heat Sow in the evening, water well, and consider adding light shade over freshly seeded areas to keep the soil cool.
4. Keep watering consistent Seeds and young plants need steady moisture, especially during warm July days.
5. Don’t overdo it It’s easy to get excited (hello, seed hoarders), but keep it simple and realistic to avoid overwhelm. Think: joy, not stress.

So there you have it, one last hurrah for the garden before the frost moves in.

Go sow something. Go be smug in October. You’ve got this.

In this final article, we’ll explore ways to manage yields, store food and herbs, and offer tips for gardening in tight spaces. We’ll also discuss planting strategies, storage techniques, and ways to keep your harvest fresh longer, whether you’re in a small apartment, a large backyard, or somewhere in between.

Eating Fresh vs Storing

It’s important to consider how you’ll use your harvest. As mentioned in the earlier parts of this series, staggering your planting dates and growing multiple varieties can help ensure a consistent supply of fresh produce throughout the season. This works especially well for tender crops like lettuce that have a short storage life and don’t freeze well.

Many herbs can be dried, and vegetables like carrots and onions can be chopped and frozen—or stored fresh—for cooking year-round. Canning is also a great way to preserve crops such as beetroot and tomatoes.

Helpful Guides:

• Storing Herbs - by Samantha
• A Guide to Canning - by Jessalyn
• Storing Veg (without a root cellar) - by Jared

Storing produce over the winter means growing more at the right time. If you live in a cold climate, remember that food consumption typically rises during the winter months (around 10-30%), so if your goal is to be self-sufficient from your garden, this is an important consideration.

Staggered Planting and Storage

Let’s use carrots as an example.

In the garden bed, I have 1 3ft row of carrots planned. They’re planted next to beans and onions, which are companion plants, so they can share nutrients, and keep pests and diseases to a minimum, which should give a better harvest. The carrots are eventually replaced by kale, which can overwinter and handle the cold weather better.

To plan how much to plant, I created a table:

With the Planter app, you can easily map out your garden and ensure proper spacing between plants. The app suggests planting 16 Danvers per square foot–up to 48 per 3ft row (3 ft x 1 ft)– helping you optimize your garden space for healthy growth.

Small Spaces

If you’re short on space, container gardening is a powerful solution. Pots work well on balconies, patios, or anywhere with limited ground. Many herbs, alliums, and even compact vegetables thrive in containers.

With some care and attention, many crops—from potatoes to strawberries—can thrive in pots. Container gardening also gives you the freedom to get creative with layering and plant combinations. Since space and nutrients are limited, choosing good companion plants is especially important.

A few 10-gallon pots on a balcony or patio can yield a surprisingly generous harvest, especially with succession planting. For example, you could start with a quick crop of green onions or chives, then transplant strawberries into the same pot once the first crop is harvested.

Overwintering Crops

Some crops can survive the winter and start producing again early the next season. Others, like garlic, are planted in the fall and harvested the following summer. Cold-hardy vegetables like kale, spinach, and certain carrots can survive in the ground through frost, especially with a little protection like mulch or row covers. Overwintering gives you a head start on spring and makes the most of your space year-round. Just be sure to know your hardiness zone and choose varieties that can handle the cold in your area.

In this garden, everything except the Zinnia will overwinter quite nicely where I live. The turnips will also replenish a lot of soil nutrients and improve the health of the garden bed for the year to come.

The Other Plants in the Bed

We’ve discussed most of the plants in our example bed so far, and the ones we haven’t, follow the ideas we’ve discussed in this series.

• The onions are planted in succession for a longer harvest, and then replaced with zinnias
• The beans are a determinate variety; I prefer eating beans during cooler months, so one large harvest where I dry them all out is fine for me. These are then replaced with turnips for overwintering.
• The cucumbers will mature in mid-summer, and then be replaced with transplanted okra, which will handle the late summer and fall weather with no difficulty.

Yields

You may not know exactly how much to plant the first year, so keeping notes and logs is useful. Note what varieties grow well, how long they took to grow, how long they kept in the ground, stored in the fridge, etc., to help you carefully plan next year’s harvest. Additionally, you can estimate many varieties by looking at the per-plant yield. We’ve linked some good resources below to help you.

• Cornell Yield Guide
• Michigan State Extension
• UC Master Gardener Program
• Penn State Extension

Other Considerations

Crop Rotation

Planting the same crop in the same spot year after year depletes soil nutrients. Rotating crops helps maintain healthy soil and reduces pest issues. Use the Planter app to track what’s planted where and plan your rotations.

Determinate vs. Indeterminate

Determinate plants (like some tomatoes and beans) produce all at once—great for preserving, but potentially overwhelming. Indeterminate varieties yield steadily over time, ideal for fresh eating. Knowing the type helps you plan harvest timing and storage needs.

Recording Information

Tracking your garden’s performance helps you grow smarter each season. Key things to note:

• What worked (and didn’t): Which varieties thrived? Which ones struggled or weren’t worth the effort? 
• Yields vs. expectations: Did you get more or less than you thought? Were there any surprises? 
• Care needs: Which plants required the most attention, and were they worth it?
• Over– or under-planted: Did you grow too much of something? Not enough? 
• Pests, weather & timing: Jot down issues like late frosts, drought, or recurring pest problems, plus when each crop actually matured.

At the Harvest

There’s a lot to consider when planning how much to grow. It’s unlikely you’ll have a perfect garden your first year, but keeping track of everything will set you up for success.

Planting crops in succession, or staggering them by time or variety, can extend your harvest and give you plentiful amounts of produce throughout the year.

Whatever you choose to garden, remember to enjoy it.

Best of luck!

Why Cold-Hardy Veggies?

Cold-hardy vegetables are a special group of plants that can handle chilly temperatures and even a touch of frost. These tough veggies are perfect for planting in the fall and winter, allowing you to extend your growing season and enjoy homegrown goodness even when the weather isn’t exactly balmy. Use the Planter App to identify cold hardy veggies that can handle a light frost or in some cases even a freeze!

Our Top 10 Picks for Your Winter Garden

Kale

This leafy green superstar is packed with nutrients and comes in a variety of colors and textures. Kale prefers well-drained soil and a spot with plenty of sunshine. Give it regular waterings, and you’ll be enjoying delicious salads and smoothies all winter long.

Varieties: ‘Lacinato’ (Dinosaur Kale): This variety has dark blue-green leaves with a savoyed (ruffled) texture. It’s known for its slightly sweeter flavor compared to other kales.

‘Red Russian’ Kale: This variety has red stems and purplish-green leaves with a milder, sweeter flavor. It’s also very ornamental!

‘Winterbor’ Kale: This variety is extremely cold-hardy, as the name suggests, and can tolerate temperatures down to -10°F. It has a slightly sweeter and more tender texture than other kales.

Spinach

Another nutritional powerhouse, spinach is a fast-growing cool-season crop. Like kale, it prefers full sun and well-drained soil. You can start harvesting baby spinach leaves in just a few weeks!

Varieties:

‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ Spinach: A classic variety that’s slow to bolt (go to seed) and produces large, dark green leaves.

‘Space’ Spinach: This variety is resistant to downy mildew and produces baby spinach leaves that are perfect for salads.

‘Tyee’ Spinach: This variety is known for its high yields and resistance to bolting, making it a great choice for the Southeast.

Radishes

These little root vegetables are super easy to grow and add a peppery crunch to salads and sandwiches. Radishes prefer loose, sandy soil and mature in about a month.

Varieties:

‘Cherry Belle’ Radish: A popular variety that matures quickly (in about 22 days) and produces round, red roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor.

‘French Breakfast’ Radish: This variety has elongated, red roots with white tips and a slightly spicy flavor.

‘White Icicle’ Radish: This variety has long, white roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor. It’s also slower to bolt than other radishes.

Carrots

Believe it or not, carrots actually sweeten in flavor when grown in cool weather. Choose a variety with short roots for best results in the winter garden. Make sure your soil is loose and free of rocks to allow for proper root development.

Varieties:

‘Danvers Half Long’ Carrot: A classic variety that’s well-suited for heavy soils and produces medium-length, sweet roots.

‘Little Finger’ Carrot: This variety is perfect for the Southeast’s shorter growing season, as it matures quickly and produces small, tender roots.

‘Paris Market’ Carrot: This variety produces round, bite-sized roots that are perfect for snacking or roasting.

Lettuce

Enjoy fresh salads all winter long by planting cold-hardy lettuce varieties. Loose-leaf lettuce is a great option for beginners, as it can be harvested continuously. Provide your lettuce with partial shade and consistent moisture.

Varieties:

‘Black Seeded Simpson’ Lettuce: A popular loose-leaf variety with bright green, ruffled leaves and a mild flavor.

‘Winter Density’ Lettuce: This romaine lettuce variety is cold-hardy and can tolerate some frost. It has crisp, dark green leaves.

‘Red Sails’ Lettuce: This loose-leaf variety has beautiful red leaves with a mild flavor and adds a pop of color to salads.

Onions

Onions are a kitchen staple, and many varieties can be planted in the fall for a spring harvest. Choose onion sets or transplants for easiest planting. Onions need full sun and well-drained soil. Short-day onions grow best in mild winter climates, such as zone 7 or warmer.

Varieties:

‘Yellow Granex’ Onion (Vidalia): This variety is a favorite in the Southeast and produces large, sweet onions.

‘Red Creole’ Onion: This variety is known for its pungent flavor and beautiful red color.

‘White Bermuda’ Onion: This variety produces large, mild onions that are great for slicing.

Garlic

Plant garlic cloves in the fall, and you’ll be rewarded with flavorful bulbs in the spring. Garlic prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Don’t forget to mulch around your garlic plants to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Varieties:

‘Silverskin’ Garlic: This softneck variety is well-suited for the Southeast and produces large bulbs with a strong flavor.

‘Inchelium Red’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its rich, complex flavor and beautiful purple stripes.

‘Spanish Roja’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its robust flavor and long storage life.

Turnips

Both the roots and greens of turnips are edible, making them a versatile addition to your winter garden. Turnips prefer full sun and loose, fertile soil. They’re also relatively fast-growing, maturing in about two months.

Varieties:

‘Purple Top White Globe’ Turnip: A classic variety with a purple top and white flesh. It has a mild, sweet flavor.

‘Hakurei’ Turnip: This Japanese variety has a sweet, delicate flavor and can be eaten raw or cooked.

‘Seven Top’ Turnip: This variety is grown primarily for its greens, which have a mild, spinach-like flavor.

Peas

Enjoy sweet, tender peas by planting them in the fall. Choose a variety that’s specifically bred for cool weather. Peas need full sun and something to climb on, like a trellis or fence.

Varieties:

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ Pea: This snow pea variety is cold-tolerant and produces sweet, edible pods.

‘Wando’ Pea: This garden pea variety is heat- and cold-tolerant, making it a good choice for the Southeast.

‘Maestro’ Pea: This shelling pea variety is known for its high yields and sweet flavor.

Swiss Chard

This colorful leafy green is a close relative of spinach and beets. It’s packed with vitamins and minerals and can be used in a variety of dishes. Swiss chard prefers full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.

Varieties:

‘Bright Lights’ Swiss Chard: This variety has colorful stems in shades of red, pink, orange, and yellow, making it a beautiful addition to the garden.

‘Lucullus’ Swiss Chard: This variety has white stems and dark green leaves with a slightly savoyed texture.

‘Rhubarb Chard’ Swiss Chard: This variety has red stems and green leaves with a slightly tart flavor.

Additional Tips for Winter Gardening

Even though these veggies are tough, they can still use a little extra TLC during the colder months. Here are a few tips to help your winter garden thrive:

• Frost Protection: While these veggies can handle some cold, a hard frost can still damage them. If a freeze is predicted, protect your plants by covering them with a row cover or blanket overnight.
• Water Wisely: Plants need less water in the winter, so don’t over do it. Water deeply but less frequently, and make sure the soil has good drainage to prevent soggy roots.
• Feed Your Soil: Healthy soil means healthy plants! Amend your soil with compost or other organic matter to provide nutrients and improve drainage.
• Sunlight is Key: Even in winter, most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Choose a sunny spot for your garden, and be mindful of shadows cast by buildings or trees.

Ready to enjoy fresh, homegrown veggies all winter long? By planting these cold-hardy varieties now, you can extend your harvest and savor the flavors of the season. Imagine the satisfaction of serving up a salad made with ingredients you grew yourself, even in the depths of winter!

Don’t forget to download the Planter App for more winter gardening tips, tricks, and personalized advice. Happy growing!

What Should Pets Eat?

There are debates about the “right” diet for cats and dogs. In the wild, dogs are omnivores.  They eat meat, of course, but they also eat the stomachs of animals, which are usually full of fermenting plant material. Cats’ stomachs are very acidic, so they can survive primarily on meat.  However, plant fiber can help feed the bacteria in cats’ stomachs.  Some people feed their pets kibble, some choose wet food, some cook their pet’s meals from scratch, and some feed pets raw food. Ultimately, the choice is up to you, but if you want to give your pets some home-grown treats or you hope to enhance their health, sharing your garden bounty is a good way to do so. 

It’s important to note that animals’ bodies digest and process some plants differently than us, and sometimes the wrong food can be harmful. Start with a small amount when giving your pet a new food for the first time. If you are feeding your pets packaged dried fruit, be sure xylitol isn’t used as a sweetener because it is toxic to animals. PetMD.com is a good place to find out which fruits and vegetables are safe for cats.  The American Kennel Club has good information regarding dogs.  It’s always a good idea to check with your pet’s vet before introducing new foods, especially if they have health concerns.

Dogs

Some dogs love fruit and veggies, and some want nothing to do with them! If your dog wants nothing to do with fresh veggies, you can try cooking them and adding them to your dog’s food.  Fruit and veg can be an excellent way to add fiber to your pet’s diet, which can be lacking in kibble.

According to the AKC, here are some safe fruit and vegetables for dogs (not a complete list): 

• Apples- make sure they don’t eat too many seeds
• Bananas- try blending up frozen bananas and peanut butter for a dog smoothie
• Blueberries- frozen blueberries are a nice treat on a hot day!
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cantaloupe
• Carrots- carrots make a good chew toy (supervise your pet so they don’t choke)
• Celery
• Cranberries- know any dogs who like them?
• Cucumbers
• Green beans- cooked green beans are a hit with a lot of dogs
• Ginger- technically an herb, but good for upset digestive systems
• Peaches
• Pears
• Peas
• Pumpkin-a great base for homemade dog treats and pumpkin seeds have essential fatty acids 
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes- small amounts of ripe tomatoes are okay
• Strawberries
• Watermelon

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Asparagus- difficult for dogs to digest properly
• Avocado
• Cherries- the pits, stems, and leaves can cause problems
• Chives
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions

According to the AKC, citrus and spinach are potentially safe but it’s better to avoid them. Dogs should only be fed cooked potatoes in small amounts, and they should never be fed green potatoes. Dogs shouldn’t eat green tomatoes or any part of a tomato plant.

Cats

Cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so most don’t like fruit. Most cats will pick a platter of tuna over a pile of green beans, but if you have a cat with a sophisticated palette, you can try some snacks from the garden. If your cat won’t try fresh produce, you can dehydrate the fruit or veggies, then powder them, and sprinkle a little on their food. And of course, cats (and dogs) usually love catnip!

Safe fruit and vegetables according to PetMD (not a complete list):

• Apples
• Asparagus
• Bananas
• Blueberries
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cantaloupe
• Cranberries
• Cucumber
• Ginger- an herb that’s good for upset digestive systems 
• Pear
• Peas
• Peppers
• Pumpkin
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Chives
• Citrus
• Garlic
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions
• Rhubarb

The same applies to potatoes for cats and dogs: cook potatoes before serving and never feed them green potatoes.  Cats can have tiny pieces of ripe tomatoes. They should never eat green tomatoes or any other part of a tomato plant.

Other Pets: 

Birds:

Birds can and should eat a lot of fruit and vegetables. This website is a good resource for learning more about what is safe. Avoid garlic, onions, avocados, and head lettuce varieties that are high in water content. 

Gerbils and Hamsters:

Be mindful of the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables that hamsters and gerbils eat. Too many snacks high in water content can cause gastrointestinal distress. Keep your serving sizes small. These pets can safely enjoy apples, bananas, berries, lettuce, kale, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and more!  

Rabbits:

These veggie lovers will eat almost every plant in a garden! However, rabbits are not recommended to eat onions, leeks, garlic, raw potatoes, or iceberg lettuce. Dark and leafy lettuce is okay. 

Fish: 

I was surprised to learn that pet fish can eat treats from the garden. You might want to research all of the things that different types of fish can eat, but some produce fish can eat (according to research online, I am not a fish expert) are cucumber, lettuce, carrots, pieces of pumpkin, apples, pears, berries, and zucchini.  Word on the internet says to avoid oranges and watermelon.

Peter, the creator of Planter, gives his fish red lettuce that has bolted. They love it!

Next time you’re out harvesting, see if anything sparks your pet’s interest.  Their favorite garden treat might surprise you!

‘Curry’ is actually a loose, catch-all term that doesn’t properly refer to any specific dish. In its originating culture, each dish would have its own unique name. That being said, many dishes that could be loosely grouped as ‘curry-style’ dishes can be created using many of the same core plants in the garden. Let’s explore some potential ways to plan a culinary curry garden in Planter!

Curry garden base plan

Our sample curry garden base plan starts with a standard 4’ x 8’ garden in Planter. We’ve filled the garden with uber-versatile plants that form the backbone of many great curry dishes:

• Garlic
• Ginger
• Cilantro
• Hot peppers
• Tomatoes
• Onions

Garlic and cooking onions were placed on the outside because they are slow growers and need to be harvested by pulling or forking them out of the soil. Two hot pepper plants might not seem like a lot, but they’ll likely be prolific enough to provide your family with ample chili harvests (of course if you’re major spice lovers feel free to add more!) While cilantro is associated with cuisines from some of the hotter parts of the world, it actually can’t take the heat all that well and has a tendency to bolt. Because of this, you might want to plan to plant your cilantro in successions.

Roma tomatoes were chosen because they are a nice meaty tomato that work well for cooking. Ginger is kept in containers because a) it grows slowly and needs to be started indoors well in advance if you live in a cooler climate and b) the containers can be moved and positioned around the garden so the plants receive dappled sun- ginger loves the heat but not direct, scorching sunlight.

When choosing locations for the plants in your own plan, be sure to position them so they’ll be easily accessible for harvesting and where they won’t shade each other out unintentionally. This base plan is just a starting point that you can adapt to your unique garden conditions.

If you happen to have some more space to play with in your garden, consider branching out into some specific cuisines:

Thai curry garden plan

Thai food is vibrant and features an array of different veggies. To prepare some tasty Thai dishes, the following plants were added to the base plan:

• Peas
• Eggplant
• Carrots
• Lemongrass
• Thai basil
• Thai mint
• Peanuts
• Dwarf lime

The Thai curry garden plan incorporates most of the plants from the base curry garden plan and adds on from there. The serrano chiles were swapped for Thai chiles, and more garlic and onions were added. Lemongrass is a staple ingredient in many Thai dishes- its included in a container so it can be started early indoors and easily transitioned outside. Mint was also added in a container to prevent it from spreading and taking over the entire garden! Basil plays more nicely so it can be incorporated right into the garden bed. If possible, try to find Thai varieties of mint and basil for a more authentic flavor.

For something slightly more adventurous peanuts and a dwarf lime were added to the plan- these ingredients are often incorporated in Thai dishes or used as accompaniments. Peanuts can grow well even in somewhat northern climates as long as you select an appropriate variety and ensure they are planted with enough time to mature. Limes on the other hand are frost sensitive, but dwarf varieties can be grown as container plants that can be brought inside over winter. If overwintering a lime tree seems like too much work, forgo it and plant something else instead- just be sure not to fill the middle of the garden space with plants that will be hard to reach.

Indian curry garden plan

The Indian curry garden plan also works off the same base curry garden plan, but includes some unique ingredients favored in Indian cooking:

• Turmeric
• Cauliflower
• Potatoes
• Okra
• Kidney beans
• Mustard
• Spinach

Turmeric is a plant that spreads and grows by rhizomes, similar to ginger. Since turmeric isn’t available in Planter (yet!) one workaround is to create a custom variety of ginger and name it turmeric (turmeric isn’t technically a ginger variety but this is just a quick fix). Like ginger, turmeric is grown in pots so it can be started well in advance and moved around in the garden to capture the perfect balance of sun and shade.

Cauliflower and potatoes are included in the plan as core ingredients in the popular and delicious dish ‘aloo gobi’. Okra is added as the key component of ‘bhindi masala’, and the kidney beans can be used to prepare delicious ‘rajma’. With drying beans you’ll want to have several plants to get a yield that is substantial enough to make bean-based dishes. Rounding out the list we have spinach and mustard- spinach can be used to make a mouth-watering ‘saag paneer’ and along with mustard greens (and other mixed greens) can be used to create delicious ‘saag’ curries. And if your mustard bolts and goes to seed no worries- mustard seed is also a key spice in many Indian dishes!

We hope these curry garden plans have provided some inspiration to plan a fun and practical cuisine-themed garden! Having all the veggies at hand to create a whole range of dishes will help you make the best use of your garden produce in the kitchen. Planter makes it easy and fun to explore garden design possibilities to compliment your culinary adventures!

Below are some common veggie crops that typically mature quickly enough to start from seed in midsummer and still get a solid harvest by season’s end!

Beets

Beets are an excellent crop to seed in summer and grow into fall. Beets are sturdy plants that can grow in the heat but will also appreciate cooler fall temperatures, and they’re typically ready to harvest in 55-70 days. Don’t feel constrained to just growing plain old purple beets- there are beautiful golden, white, and ‘candy cane’ (pink-and-white striped) varieties that add visual interest in the garden and the kitchen! For beet growing tips be sure to check out Grow Great Root Vegetables.

Chard

Chard is a beet relative that is usually grown for its large, spinach-like leaves. Chard performs well in spite of the summer’s heat, and it can also handle some seriously cold temperatures. Chard typically matures in 40-60 days which means for many gardeners a midsummer planting will give ample time to reach maturity and continue to produce a harvest well into fall and even early winter. Harvest only the outermost chard leaves and it will keep on growing and producing harvests for weeks to come.

Beans

Beans might be a surprising candidate for summer sowing, but they’re a quick-growing crop that does very well planted in midsummer for early fall harvests. Bush beans tend to mature faster than pole beans, so if your growing season is waning make sure to look for a faster-growing bush bean variety. Beans are a warm season crop that prefers full sun, so be sure to plant them in a sunny spot that will also receive maximum warmth as fall approaches. When cooler nights start to roll in you can use season extension techniques to keep your beans producing just a little while longer.

Lettuce

While lettuce does not at all enjoy the heat of summer, it’s good to plan for multiple plantings of lettuce throughout the growing season (this is called succession sowing). Lettuce is generally a quick-growing crop, especially if you are growing it as cut-and-come-again lettuce rather than full lettuce heads. Lettuce planted in the summer may need a little TLC to produce a harvest. Shade cloth can help block out too much searing heat from the sun, and consistent watering can help to avoid stress to the plant that could accelerate bolting. And once cooler temperatures hit, your lettuce crop will be even more prolific!

Carrots

Carrots might seem like a plant-once-and-done crop, but there can be a massive difference in the days to maturity depending on the variety. ‘Early’ carrot varieties can be ready to harvest in as little as 50 days, whereas more substantial storage varieties can take up to 120 days to mature! So be sure to select carrot varieties for summer sowing carefully. Carrots can be tricky to germinate, and summer’s heat does not help matters. Water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist after sowing carrots- some gardeners even put down a piece of plywood over the soil to hold in moisture (be sure to check for germination every day if you go this route!)

Cilantro

Cilantro is possibly one of the most bolt-prone crops around, which means the only way to be able to keep harvesting it for fresh summertime salsas is to keep on planting it! Keep watering and harvesting your cilantro regularly especially in summer to try to stave off bolting as long as possible. Cilantro that does flower helps to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects that can help your summer crops along– if you have enough space just leave the flowered plants in and plant a new round. You can also easily save seed from cilantro for upcoming plantings!

Radishes 

Radishes are an excellent crop to sow midsummer (or almost anytime, really) as they grow  extremely quickly. Radishes can reach maturity in as little as 25 days, and their compact size means that they can be tucked into almost any garden space that frees up as spring and summer crops kick the bucket. And if your radishes happen to bolt before you get a chance to harvest them you can always let them continue growing- the green seed pods are edible (and delicious!) Then plant a whole new wave of radishes!

This is just a small sampling of our favorite crops to plant in summer- there are many more summer sowing possibilities to explore. Don’t let your garden dwindle down to just tomatoes and peppers as the season wears on- sow a fresh round of summer crops for full garden beds and abundant harvests!

Have you ever tie-dyed with your family or friends? It’s a fun and creative activity, and many synthetic dye kits are available on the market! However, there are several good reasons to try dying with plants; put simply, natural dyes are more eco-friendly than those on the market. You reduce your ecological footprint every time you choose to reduce your packaging waste or avoid introducing chemicals to the water system; choosing homemade alternatives is a great way to do both!

Food coloring, too, has been fostering more concern lately - some colors more so than others. Specifically, red dye #40 has been banned in the UK as it’s derived from petroleum. Food colorings are also theorized due to testing to promote hyperactivity in children, though that’s still being tested. Regardless, as before, natural dyes are far safer to consume and use than these petroleum-based dyes, and you can make them yourself at home!

If you’d like to read more about artificial food dyes, here is a resource from the Center for Science in the Public Interest:

https://www.cspinet.org/sites/default/files/media/documents/resource/food-dyes-rainbow-of-risks.pdf

How Do I Get Started?

Below are many plants you can use for specific colors! For best results, try mixing a few or testing out small batches to see what gets the color you’re looking for! Also, individual variations in plants (like avocados) will cause variations in the dye color; no two marigolds will create the same color dye, so it’s best to do big batches if you think you’re going to need the dye for more than one thing!

Red/Pink: Cherries, roses, beets, avocado pits/skins, red onion, strawberries, raspberries

Yellow/Orange: Onion skins, carrots, turmeric, saffron, celery leaves, paprika, marigold, sunflower petals

Blue/Purple: Black beans, blueberries, elderberries, red cabbage + baking soda, basil, Huckleberry, blackberry, sweet potato

Green: Grass, spinach, artichoke, mint, lilacs, matcha

Brown: coffee, tea, cocoa

Black: Activated charcoal (not exactly a garden product, but still a good natural dye!)

Some Things to Keep In Mind:

When making dye at home, keep in mind that natural coloring will create lighter, pastel shades as opposed to artificial vibrant colors. For a more vibrant color, make the base as concentrated as possible. Also, natural food colorings of course come from real food ingredients; the dye may have a small bit of that flavor left, depending on the ingredients used. Organic produce will be better for your dyeing needs as well, as added chemicals could mess with the mixture you create.

Some dye’s ingredients will interact with temperatures or ingredients to make different colors. For example, avocado scraps will make pink dye when steeped at low temperatures but brown if boiled. Red cabbage will make blue dyes if baking soda is added. If you do research into what ingredients you have, you could make a wide variety of dyes!

If you’re looking to dye eggs for easter, you’ll want to go with the clothing dye instructions below!

How to Make Natural Clothing Dye:

Some dyes will need specific different temperatures or ingredients to affect the color (for example, avocado scraps will make pink dye when steeped at low temperatures but brown if boiled). Here are the basic instructions:

When using plant products for dying, it’s recommended that you use an equal weight of scraps as the weight of what you’re planning to dye. To dye a shirt, you’ll need a lot more light ingredients like onion skins, for example, than beets. Put your ingredients (chopped up) into a saucepan or pot with enough water to cover it all, and bring it to a boil before leaving it to simmer until you get the color you like. 40 minutes is a good length of time for this, but for vibrant and strong colors you should let it simmer for a few hours. Turn off the heat and leave your dye to cool overnight if you can, and when you’re finished waiting you can throw the scraps into compost and you’ve got your natural dye, ready to go!

To dye your fabrics, start by washing them; wet clothing will take the dye more easily, and be easier to twist for tie-dye. Tie the clothes if you’d like, before soaking them in your vat of dye and leaving it overnight for best results. Wash out the colored clothes with cold water, untie them, and hang them out to dry.

Make sure to wash dyed fabrics with cold water to keep them looking vibrant.If you’re dissatisfied with the dying results, warm washes with strong detergent should get the fabric back to fresh and new!

How to Make Natural Food Dye:

There are two basic ways to make food dyes; from powdered ingredients, or by making a concentrated liquid.

You can make powdered ingredients out of your fruits or vegetables by freeze-dying them and then putting them in a food processor. These powders are often easier to use as they dissolve without much fuss and are more concentrated. Making powder at home might leave you with clumpy results depending on the ingredients, but they can be dissolved in a little bit of liquid to smooth them out.

The liquid method can be done by juicing your produce, pureeing and straining, or steeping some in water, depending on the ingredient choice. You will have to reduce the liquid by cooking it down to make as concentrated a color as possible, typically down to a fraction of a cup.

Once the colorings are made, you can use them in whatever you please! Add slowly and in small amounts to ensure the desired color and vibrance, just like any other food dyes. Icings and frostings are a good use for these, as well as baked goods, though the heat may affect the color. You can also use them as edible paints!

Your newly made food coloring can be stored in the fridge for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container.

Happy coloring, gardeners!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

Pay attention to soil preparation and planting to increase the chance of unearthing beautiful, tasty root crops!

Prepare Your Soil for Root Crops

Soil conditions are especially important for proper root development in root crops. Some gardeners choose to grow root vegetables in raised beds to have better control over the soil qualities. If using a raised bed, make sure the bed is deep enough for the crops you intend to grow.

Root crops need loose, well draining soil. The roots will struggle to push downward and expand in heavy clay soils. Compost and sand can help to lighten your soil if it’s heavy. Sift the soil to remove rocks and sticks, which can cause the roots to fork and grow in unusual shapes.

Soil PH is an important factor for root development. In general root crops prefer a PH of 6.0-6.8, but you can research the optimal PH ranges for the specific crops you plan to grow. Ideally, test your soil PH prior to planting and apply treatments to raise or lower the PH if needed.

Fertilizer is another key component for growing root crops, and their needs are unique. Applying excess nitrogen when planting can cause the roots to fork, and over time the plant will focus on leaf growth instead of root growth. Root crops need sufficient phosphorus to develop healthy roots, but only add phosphorus if a soil test confirms its lacking in your soil.

How to Plant Root Crops

Root crops are cool weather crops, generally planted in spring or in late summer and early fall. It’s often recommended to seed root crops directly in the garden, rather than starting them indoors and transplanting. It can be easy to damage the root when transplanting, which is the desired part of the plant! That said, some gardeners do have success transplanting certain root crops.

Root crops can tolerate part shade, but they do best in a full-sun location. Proper plant spacing is important for root crops. Check Planter to determine the proper square-foot spacing for the crops you are planting:

Root crops do not compete well with weeds especially when they are just sprouting. Ensure the planting area is clear of weeds and keep up with weeding. The seeds need consistent moisture to germinate, which can be challenging when sowing outdoors. Water the area to be planted prior to seeding and keep it damp. You can cover the planting area to hold in moisture, but be sure to remove the cover as soon as the seeds sprout!

As the crops grow they still need consistent, adequate watering. If the soil dries out between waterings, it can cause the roots to become tough. Use the Notes and Events premium features in Planter to stay on top of watering!

Harvesting Root Crops

Knowing when to harvest root crops can be a bit of a mystery since the roots are underground. The main way to know when the crop is ready to harvest is to keep track of the days to maturity (listed on the seed packet). When enough time has passed for the plants to reach maturity, pull out a few testers to check if they are a harvestable size. With some types of root crops you can spot the top part of the root poking out of the soil, which hints at how big the root is.

If your soil is loose you can sometimes pull the roots straight out of the ground by their stems. Often they will need gentle loosening with a trowel or garden fork to be pulled out. Gentle is the operative word here as it’s easy to accidentally snap or cut the roots when harvesting them.

Include root crops in your garden this season to enjoy unearthing a hidden harvest!

What are Cold-Hardy Crops?

There are several cold-hardy crops that will grow in cooler temperatures and can withstand a mild frost or even a freeze. These plants are typically divided into two groups - semi-hardy which can tolerate a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and hardy which can tolerate heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). Not only do these plants withstand the colder temperatures, they actually grow best in the cooler weather.

Examples of semi-hardy crops include: carrots, beets, lettuce, cilantro, and peas.

Examples of hardy crops include: kale, spinach, garlic, chives, and parsley.

Use Planter to identify cool season plants that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant to frost! Select a plant and refer to the Season and Frost cards under Quick Info:

Note that cold-hardy crops are not to be confused with cole crops. Cole crops are members of the brassica family specifically- and while they do love the cold - they are just one family out of many that happen to enjoy cold weather.

When to Plant

Knowing when to plant cold-hardy crops can be tricky. Obviously, the ground should be workable. Aside from this how do you know when it is safe to plant? As a first step, check the Growing Calendar in Planter, to see when the crops you are interested in planting can be sown (or transplanted) outdoors in your area.

It’s a good idea to use a soil thermometer to measure the ground temperature to ensure it is warm enough for seeds to germinate. Seeds that are planted in soil that is too cold for them to germinate will absorb water without germinating, which leaves them susceptible to rot. Research the ideal soil temperatures to germinate the crops you are planning to grow.

Even if the ground is warm enough to plant, there is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate! There may still be a risk of extreme weather that could potentially kill off even the most hardy crops. To help avoid this, mulch the plants generously to protect them from the elements. Cover plants with plastic sheets or cloches if severe cold rolls in. Also, sow regular successions (‘waves’) of crops. If some plants do perish in the harsh spring conditions, planting in succession helps ensure there will be new plants growing up not far behind.

Caring for Cold Hardy Crops

Prior to planting cool season crops, prepare the bed by working in compost and a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer. Depending on the crop, you may need to re-apply fertilizer every several weeks.

Although it may not be warm out, still be on the lookout for dry conditions. If there isn’t enough rainfall, provide sufficient water to keep the ground consistently moist

Take full advantage of the early spring growing season - don’t miss out on delicious harvests of cold-hardy crops!