A Family With Many Faces

As a triplet myself, I’ve always thought of my family as pretty big. But it’s nothing compared to this one. You may know the brassica family as just cabbages and cauliflowers, yet the Brassicaceae clan is much larger than most people imagine. It has around 370 genera and over 4,000 species, making it one of the most important plant families in both our gardens and our kitchens.

Some members include:

• Kale and collards
• Broccoli and cauliflower
• Brussels sprouts
• Kohlrabi
• Radishes and turnips
• Bokchoy, mizuna, arugula (yes really!), mustard greens

So, amazingly, many of these vegetables all come from one of the 4,000 species: Brassica Oleracea. They are carefully bred of centuries to emphasize different parts of the plant. Leaves, stems, buds, flowers, roots, they are all transformed into unique crops, yet bound by family ties.

Why Autumn is Their Season

Brassicas thrive when the air is cool and crisp. They dislike the stress of high summer heat, but as soon as autumn rolls in, they grow strong and sweet.

In fact, many brassicas taste even better after the first frost! Why, you ask? Here’s the cool part: cold weather triggers chemical changes that turn starches into sugars, making kale sweeter and Brussels sprouts less bitter. So instead of bundling up in warmer clothes like we do, they literally change their chemistry. Plants are way cooler than us (kidding… kinda).

In short, where summer crops retreat, brassicas shine. They are the bridge between seasons, carrying us from the abundance of late summer into the steady rhythm of winter harvests.

Fun Facts to Share Around the Dinner Table

• The brassica family includes crops, herbs and even ornamentals!

• • Canola oil (a staple cooking oil worldwide) comes from a brassica too: Brassica napus.

  • • Brassicas are also called “crucifers” because their four-petaled flowers look like a cross.
• This fam is a nutritional powerhouse! They are packed with vitamins C, K and folates. Plus compounds called glucosinolates that give them their characteristic mustardy bite. And, and, and this is also the compound that protect the plant from pests (and ironically, they’re also linked to health benefits for us)! You should totally flex this glucosinolates-fact at dinner.
• Broccoli and cauliflower are essentially the same plant, just bred for different flower structure.

Caring for Brassicas in Your Garden

Soil & Feeding

• Brassicas are hungry plants! Give them fertile, well-drained soil enriched with compost.
• They thrive with steady moisture and benefit from a balanced organic fertiliser.

Planting Time

• Late summer is perfect for sowing fast growers like arugula, mustard and radishes for autumn salads.
• Kale, cabbages and brussels sprouts can be transplanted now and will be ready to harvest as autumn deepens.

Frost is a Friend

• Don’t fear the cold, frost improves the flavor! With a little protection (row covers, mulch) many brassicas will carry you right into winter.

Pest and Protection

Okay, this is an important one. Brassicas are vulnerable to diseases. The most serious is clubroot, a soilborne parasite that causes swollen roots and stunted growth. Once present, it can survive in the soil for up to 20 years! Because all members of the brassica family are susceptible, it’s very important to rotate them as a group.

Rotation helps because it:

• Breaks pest and disease cycles
• Lets the soil recover nutrients
• Keeps plants healthier and yields stronger

A Simple 4-Year Rotation Plan

Here’s a beginner-friendly rotation cycle you could use:

Year 1 -> Brassicas (so your cabbage, kale, broccoli, etc.)

Year 2 -> Legumes (peas, beans): add nitrogen to soil

Year 3 -> Roots & Alliums (Carrots, beets, onions, garlic)

Year 4 -> Fruiting crops (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash)

Then back to year 1 with brassicas. The key: Don’t plant brassicas in the same soil two years in a row.

Using Planter’s Growing Guide

To make rotation simple, use the Planter app’s growing guide:

• Each crop is tagged with its plant family, so you know which ones count as brassicas.
• Planting calendars help you plan sowing and transplanting at the right time.
• Care tips keep track of spacing, feeding and watering needs. By marking wat you’ve planted in each bed, you can easily see when and where to rate crops next season.

When summer crops fade, brassicas take over. They’re tough, nutritious, and often taste best in the cool of autumn. By giving them fertile soil, protection from pests, and a good crop rotation, they’ll reward you with months of fresh harvests.

Happy gardening!

What Should Pets Eat?

There are debates about the “right” diet for cats and dogs. In the wild, dogs are omnivores.  They eat meat, of course, but they also eat the stomachs of animals, which are usually full of fermenting plant material. Cats’ stomachs are very acidic, so they can survive primarily on meat.  However, plant fiber can help feed the bacteria in cats’ stomachs.  Some people feed their pets kibble, some choose wet food, some cook their pet’s meals from scratch, and some feed pets raw food. Ultimately, the choice is up to you, but if you want to give your pets some home-grown treats or you hope to enhance their health, sharing your garden bounty is a good way to do so. 

It’s important to note that animals’ bodies digest and process some plants differently than us, and sometimes the wrong food can be harmful. Start with a small amount when giving your pet a new food for the first time. If you are feeding your pets packaged dried fruit, be sure xylitol isn’t used as a sweetener because it is toxic to animals. PetMD.com is a good place to find out which fruits and vegetables are safe for cats.  The American Kennel Club has good information regarding dogs.  It’s always a good idea to check with your pet’s vet before introducing new foods, especially if they have health concerns.

Dogs

Some dogs love fruit and veggies, and some want nothing to do with them! If your dog wants nothing to do with fresh veggies, you can try cooking them and adding them to your dog’s food.  Fruit and veg can be an excellent way to add fiber to your pet’s diet, which can be lacking in kibble.

According to the AKC, here are some safe fruit and vegetables for dogs (not a complete list): 

• Apples- make sure they don’t eat too many seeds
• Bananas- try blending up frozen bananas and peanut butter for a dog smoothie
• Blueberries- frozen blueberries are a nice treat on a hot day!
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cantaloupe
• Carrots- carrots make a good chew toy (supervise your pet so they don’t choke)
• Celery
• Cranberries- know any dogs who like them?
• Cucumbers
• Green beans- cooked green beans are a hit with a lot of dogs
• Ginger- technically an herb, but good for upset digestive systems
• Peaches
• Pears
• Peas
• Pumpkin-a great base for homemade dog treats and pumpkin seeds have essential fatty acids 
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes- small amounts of ripe tomatoes are okay
• Strawberries
• Watermelon

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Asparagus- difficult for dogs to digest properly
• Avocado
• Cherries- the pits, stems, and leaves can cause problems
• Chives
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions

According to the AKC, citrus and spinach are potentially safe but it’s better to avoid them. Dogs should only be fed cooked potatoes in small amounts, and they should never be fed green potatoes. Dogs shouldn’t eat green tomatoes or any part of a tomato plant.

Cats

Cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so most don’t like fruit. Most cats will pick a platter of tuna over a pile of green beans, but if you have a cat with a sophisticated palette, you can try some snacks from the garden. If your cat won’t try fresh produce, you can dehydrate the fruit or veggies, then powder them, and sprinkle a little on their food. And of course, cats (and dogs) usually love catnip!

Safe fruit and vegetables according to PetMD (not a complete list):

• Apples
• Asparagus
• Bananas
• Blueberries
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cantaloupe
• Cranberries
• Cucumber
• Ginger- an herb that’s good for upset digestive systems 
• Pear
• Peas
• Peppers
• Pumpkin
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Chives
• Citrus
• Garlic
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions
• Rhubarb

The same applies to potatoes for cats and dogs: cook potatoes before serving and never feed them green potatoes.  Cats can have tiny pieces of ripe tomatoes. They should never eat green tomatoes or any other part of a tomato plant.

Other Pets: 

Birds:

Birds can and should eat a lot of fruit and vegetables. This website is a good resource for learning more about what is safe. Avoid garlic, onions, avocados, and head lettuce varieties that are high in water content. 

Gerbils and Hamsters:

Be mindful of the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables that hamsters and gerbils eat. Too many snacks high in water content can cause gastrointestinal distress. Keep your serving sizes small. These pets can safely enjoy apples, bananas, berries, lettuce, kale, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and more!  

Rabbits:

These veggie lovers will eat almost every plant in a garden! However, rabbits are not recommended to eat onions, leeks, garlic, raw potatoes, or iceberg lettuce. Dark and leafy lettuce is okay. 

Fish: 

I was surprised to learn that pet fish can eat treats from the garden. You might want to research all of the things that different types of fish can eat, but some produce fish can eat (according to research online, I am not a fish expert) are cucumber, lettuce, carrots, pieces of pumpkin, apples, pears, berries, and zucchini.  Word on the internet says to avoid oranges and watermelon.

Peter, the creator of Planter, gives his fish red lettuce that has bolted. They love it!

Next time you’re out harvesting, see if anything sparks your pet’s interest.  Their favorite garden treat might surprise you!

Do all veggie plants need full sun?

For the most part, vegetable plants grow and produce best in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day). Veggie plants need ample sun to be able to photosynthesize and grow as quickly as possible- a lack of sun may not outright kill them but it can severely stunt their growth. But there are some plants that will still produce a respectable harvest in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun per day). Gardening successfully in part shade comes down to being selective about what you choose to grow and having realistic expectations about how much you’ll be able to harvest.

If your potential garden location is in near total shade and gets only a few hours of sun each day, you may want to skip down the Alternatives to gardening in part shade section of this article. While you can certainly have fun experimenting with growing edible plants in shade (you might even discover some non-traditional edible plants that grow well in shade), you’ll likely only be able to muster up a meager harvest.

Veggie plants to grow in part shade

Lettuce and leafy greens

Lettuce and other leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are star performers in the shade. Growing them in part shade can even have some benefits, as blazing summer sun can contribute to them bolting. To get the plants off to a good start you may want to consider starting them indoors then transplanting out to the shadier parts of your garden. It can be challenging to get lettuce to form full-sized heads in part-shade, but you can certainly harvest it as cut-and-come-again lettuce.

Green onions and chives

‘Bulbing onions’ require full sun to form their large, edible bulbs, however green onions and chives are excellent shady garden plants because they are primarily harvested for their slender, pungent greens. While they will produce best in full sun, you can tuck them into shady spots and still harvest enough to make the effort worthwhile. To learn more about growing these and other allium-family crops be sure to check out Grow Amazing Alliums.

Radishes

By now you might be noticing a theme with shady-garden plant picks: they tend to be green and leafy. Radishes can add a nice burst of color to an otherwise monotone shady salad garden. Radishes can still form nice-sized roots when grown in part shade- although it might take longer than usual for the bulbs to form. Be careful not to use too much high-nitrogen fertilizer where you plant radishes, as this will stimulate them to form lush leafy tops and tiny roots. If this does happen all is not lost- radish greens are edible too!

Beets

Like radishes, beets are another root crop that can be grown in partial shade. The roots of shade-grown beets will likely be smaller than their full-sun counterparts, but you can always roast them whole and just call them ultra-gourmet baby beets. Don’t leave beets in the ground for an excessively long time hoping that massive roots will form- they might just turn woody and tough instead. Beet greens are also totally delicious in salads or sauteed, so if you do find the bulbs are too diminutive the greens will not disappoint!

Brassicas (such as broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale)

Brassicas can be grown in part-shade locations- but they must receive at minimum 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. If your location has dappled sun throughout the day, you may want to avoid growing brassicas there. Because brassicas, like leafy greens, are prone to bolting under stress caused by heat and drought, growing them in shade may help to delay this. Patience is key as brassicas are already slow-growing crops and they will grow even more slowly in the shade. You likely will not be able to get super-sized heads to form on your broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, but it’s at least possible to grow small, tender heads. Start brassicas indoors to give them the best possible chance to grow and reach maturity in the shade.

Peas

While peas perform best when in full sun, you can still get a harvest if they’re planted in part shade. You might even be able to trellis your climbing peas so that the plants are able to climb out of the shade to reach more sun. It is important to plant your peas with enough time for them to reach maturity before the summer heat comes. While partial shade will help keep them cooler for longer, eventually they will stop flowering and producing peas in the summer’s heat. For more info on growing peas, check out Grow Awesome Legumes.

Certain herbs (such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley)

While Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and oregano prefer full sun and soil on the drier side, other herbs such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley don’t mind a bit of shade. The shade will help keep the soil moist and will help delay bolting. Trim (and cook with!) herbs planted in part-shade regularly to help keep the plants bushy and compact. And a special warning about mint: be sure to plant it in a container to keep it from spreading prolifically.

Alternatives to gardening in the shade

Container gardening

While your yard might be submerged in shade, perhaps there’s a sunny spot on a deck or front porch that could be a great spot to grow veggies in containers. Virtually every type of veggie can be grown in a container provided the container is large enough for the crop, and you water and fertilize regularly to keep the growing medium moist and full of nutrients. Containers can also be moved around as needed to capture the most amount of sun available as the sun’s angle changes.

Rent a community garden plot

If your house is in the middle of the deep woods your best bet for getting a sizable garden harvest could be to rent a plot at your local community garden. Community garden plots are typically very inexpensive to rent for an entire season and will let you grow sun-loving veggies much more successfully. If you garden in a community plot be sure to set reminders to water your garden when the weather’s hot and dry, as you won’t be able to check the state of your plants as easily as in a backyard garden.

Garden with neighbors and friends

If your neighbors and/or friends have unused backyard space that gets full sun exposure, try striking up a deal with them! If they let you use the space for gardening you can bestow them with tasty garden-grown produce throughout the season. If your friends happen to be gardening enthusiasts all the better- you can share the work, share knowledge, and share the reward!

Don’t let the semi-shaded parts of your garden be nothing more than wasted space. Maximize your harvests by growing some of these shade-tolerant plants and saving the full-sun spaces for sun-loving crops. Every harvest you can get from a shady space is a gardening win!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

What is bolting?

When a plant bolts it focuses all its energy on producing flowers and seeds, instead of growing new, lush leaves or larger roots. When a plant starts to bolt it sends up a thick, tough stem with feathery leaves- the flowers and seeds will form on this stem. Plants affected by bolting include: leafy greens and herbs such as lettuces and cilantro, radishes, beets, spinach, cabbages, onions, and carrots. With crops that produce fruits, like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers, we don’t refer to the flowering and fruiting process as bolting.

Producing flowers and seeds is a natural part of a plant’s life cycle. But what actually triggers plants to bolt? There are many factors that can signal plants to start bolting including temperature changes, changes in daylight hours, and stress from a lack of water or nutrients. Bolting is often blamed on warming temperatures as the growing season progresses, but in many cases it is cooler temperatures early in the plant’s growth as well as changes in daylight hours that contribute to bolting (yes, your plants are counting the hours of daylight!) Different plants will have specific temperature and daylight conditions that trigger them to bolt.

Why is it ‘bad’ when plants bolt?

While bolting for plants is totally normal, for gardeners it can be undesirable. When plants bolt, the parts of the plant we typically eat become unappetizing. With leafy greens, bolting causes the leaves to become extremely bitter and the plant will stop putting on new leaves. With root vegetables, the roots will stop swelling and can become tough and woody.

Bolting isn’t all bad news for us gardeners, though! While we usually want our crops to have tender greens and large roots, bolted plants have their benefits too:

• The flowers will help attract much-needed pollinators to your garden.
• Some bolted plants have delicious, edible seed pods that are hard to come by in stores! Bolted radishes will produce edible green pods that have a mild radish flavor. Bolted cilantro plants produce coriander seeds - which can be dried and used as a spice, but they are also delicious to eat while still green.
• If you are growing heirloom varieties, you can save the seeds for future planting.

But what if I want to delay bolting?

Not convinced about those radish pods? Still want to grow fresh lettuce mid-season? While bolting can’t be avoided outright, there are ways to stave it off:

• Use shade to your advantage: while most garden plants need full sun, many of the crops that tend to bolt, such as lettuce, can grow in part-shade. Planting bolt-prone crops in shadier locations can help to delay bolting significantly.
• Ensure the plant has sufficient moisture and nutrients. A stressed plant will tend to hasten flowering and seed production.
• Regular harvesting of the outer (oldest) leaves of leafy vegetables and herbs can help encourage the plant to keep producing new leaves. Some leafy crops can be harvested by hand but for a delicate job you may want to use fine-tipped pruning shears.

• For some plants, such as basil, snipping off flower stalks as soon as they appear can encourage the plant to keep on growing leaves. For others, like lettuce, unfortunately this will have little effect as the leaves will already be turning bitter.
• Succession planting can help to ensure consistent harvests of plants that have not yet bolted.
• There are also bolt-resistant plant varieties available: look for terms like ‘bolt-resistant’, ‘slobolt’, and ‘boltardy’ on the seed packet.

Despite your best efforts, at some point your bolt-prone plants will go to seed. When this happens you can pull the plants up and compost them to add nutrients back to your soil. Or, leave them to do their thing and enjoy the crop in a new way!