Fortunately, there’s a simple, time-tested solution that’s making a comeback: ollas. Used for thousands of years, this low-tech method relies on unglazed terracotta pots buried in the soil to deliver water directly to plant roots.

By creating a steady, subsurface source of moisture, ollas help regulate soil conditions, reduce evaporation, and discourage weed growth. The result is healthier plants, less frequent watering, and a more resilient garden—no matter your climate.

How Ollas Work (and Where They Come From)

Ollas (from the Spanish word for “clay pot”) are a centuries-old irrigation technique. At its core, an olla is an unglazed clay vessel buried in the soil and filled with water. Because porous clay allows slow seepage, water is released gradually into the surrounding soil, moving toward drier areas where plant roots are actively drawing moisture. This process is self-regulating, releasing more water when the soil is dry, and less when it is wetter. Plant roots will also grow towards the olla over time as well.

Traditionally, ollas are handmade pots with narrow necks that extend above the soil surface, making them easy to refill without disturbing nearby plants. While these are still available today, they can be expensive or difficult to source.

Fortunately, a simple DIY version can be made using standard unglazed terracotta plant pots. When the drainage hole is sealed and the pot is buried, it functions on the same principle as traditional ollas.

Best Uses in the Garden

Ollas can be used throughout the garden, but they are most effective in situations where consistent, low-maintenance subsurface watering is valuable. At larger scales, or in highly irrigated systems, other methods become more practical.

Large container plants are ideal candidates for ollas. Pots are more exposed to temperature fluctuations, experience higher evaporation rates, and often dry out more quickly than in-ground soil. An olla helps stabilize moisture levels and reduces the need for frequent watering.

They are also particularly useful in difficult-to-access areas of the garden, such as slopes, embankments, rocky areas where other methods can’t be installed, or widely spaced plantings where regular surface watering is inconvenient. In these contexts, ollas are great passive water sources.

Native grasses and flowering plants that prefer steady but not excessive moisture also respond well to olla irrigation, especially in dry or exposed environments.

What to Grow with Ollas

Plants with deep, fibrous roots are perhaps the best suited for growing next to ollas. High-moisture vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and pumpkins will thrive when planted with ollas.

More shallow-rooted plants like salad crops and herbs can be grown with ollas; however, the shape of the olla is very important. If the bulk of the vessel is too deep, then surface watering will be needed until the roots grow deep enough

Root vegetables such as carrots and onions can be grown with ollas, but results may vary depending on spacing and soil conditions. Because the vessel occupies physical space in the root zone, it can sometimes restrict uniform root expansion, which may affect shape and size in tightly planted beds.

Ollas are less well-suited for woody plants and shrubs, as the roots of these plants can become very substantial over time, and the pressure created by them can crack the olla.

Making Your Own Olla

A standard unglazed terracotta plant pot can be converted into an effective DIY olla with very little modification.

You will need:

• Unglazed terracotta plant pots
• A lid or cover sized to fit the pot (a terracotta saucer, scrap wood, or any opaque cover that limits evaporation)
• A method to seal the drainage hole (such as a tile fragment and food-safe glue, or a purpose-made plug or bung)

Step 1: Plan your spacing

Before installation, decide how far apart your ollas will be placed, as this will determine how many you need. As a general rule, a single olla can water an area roughly twice its own diameter. For example, a 6-inch pot can irrigate a zone up to approximately 12 inches across in each direction. For a raised bed, a 6-8 inch pot can irrigate around a 3ft square area.

This is, however, only a guideline. The actual range will vary depending on soil type, compaction, temperature, and plant water demand. Sandy soils tend to spread moisture more widely but less deeply, while clay soils hold moisture more tightly around the vessel.

It is best to treat this as a starting point and adjust spacing through observation over time.

Step 2: Seal the base

Ensure the drainage hole at the base of the pot is fully sealed. For some pots, a penny is well-sized to fill the gap, which can then be covered with safe silicone glue. I glued a piece of tile for mine.

Step 3: Install the olla

Dig a hole deep enough so that the pot sits with its rim about 1/4-1/2 inch above the soil surface. This will prevent the pot from filling with dirt, while still making it easy to water.

Backfill soil firmly around the sides to ensure good contact between the olla and the surrounding ground. Fill the olla with water and place the lid on top.

As it can take some time for the water to fully soak the soil, fill your ollas a day or two before planting.

Step 4: Observe and adjust

Over time, observe how plants respond and how quickly the olla empties. This will help you refine spacing, refill frequency, and placement for your specific garden conditions. If you’re using a plant saucer as your lid, consider filling that with water to create a shallow watering station for pollinators.

Advantages of Ollas

• They maintain a consistent level of soil moisture below the surface, encouraging deep root growth and more resilient plants.
• They reduce the frequency of watering, making garden maintenance easier and more efficient.
• Very little water is lost to surface evaporation, improving overall water efficiency.
• They provide a built-in water reserve, which is especially useful if you’re away for a few days.
• They help buffer plants against environmental stress, such as heat and wind, by delivering steady moisture directly to the root zone.

Disadvantages of Ollas

• Minerals and salts can accumulate inside the olla over time, so occasional cleaning is needed to prevent buildup from affecting the surrounding soil.
• They occupy physical space in the garden, making them less practical in tightly planted or small growing areas.
• Newly planted seedlings and transplants typically require supplemental surface watering for 2–4 weeks until roots establish contact with the moisture zone.
• They must be refilled regularly, although this can be reduced with gravity-fed or drip-based refill systems.
• If you live in an area with heavy frosts, ollas need to be brought inside for the winter, otherwise they may crack.

Wrapping Up

Ollas are a simple but highly effective way to irrigate a garden. While they do have limitations, these are generally easy to work around, and the benefits are long-lasting and significant.

Whether you choose a DIY setup or a pre-made vessel, incorporating ollas into your garden can improve plant health, reduce water use, and create a more resilient growing environment.

Spring has sprung! Here at Planter we could not be more excited for the start of the gardening season. Our southern-based team members are on the verge of planting out their warm-season crops, while the northerners are in full indoor seed-starting mode.

In the midst of all this gardening buzz, we’ve also got some buzz-worthy updates to share with the Planter community. 🐝

What’s Growing On?

Weather Data for Gardeners

Planter app users already know you can find your frost dates automatically in Planter. But what about other key weather information that gardeners need to know?

Enter MyFrost.Date, a comprehensive historical weather data aggregator for gardeners!

On MyFrost.Date you’ll find comprehensive information on your growing zone, temperature, precipitation, sunrise/sunset, and more!

Check Out MyFrost.Date

Social Media Spotlight

In a recent episode of the Planter Podcast, Peter, Milan, and Erin addressed a viewer question on container gardening, sharing tips and tricks for successfully growing in containers.

Growing Guide Highlights

Growing your own food can be more expensive than buying from the store, especially if you factor in your time. Of course nothing beats the flavor and freshness of home-grown food, but is it necessarily the case that growing your own has to be more expensive? It is possible to have a productive garden on a budget, if you get creative with the resources you have available!

Read: Budget-Friendly Gardening

Grasses are versatile plants that can be incorporated into your garden in dozens of ways. In this article, we’ll go through 7 reasons why you might consider adding grasses to your garden.

Read: Why Add Grasses?

Landscaping with edibles is becoming more popular with home gardeners. Edible landscaping lets you have a garden that is both productive and picturesque.

Read: Edible Landscaping

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The Ocotillo family is small, with just 11 species, and Fouquieria splendens is the most widely recognized. They are native to North and Central America, with a distant sister family in Madagascar. Interestingly, ocotillo is more closely related to blueberries than to cactus. The flowers are also edible and can be used to make a tisane.

In this article, we’ll cover how to propagate ocotillo successfully. Although not a cactus, it shares many of the same propagation needs and fits well here.

Choosing an Ocotillo to Propagate

Spring is the best season to propagate ocotillo. Once the risk of frost has passed, look for a healthy plant with long, vigorous canes that bloomed and leafed frequently the previous year. 

The ideal length of a cane is around 3-5ft long, and a cane can be cut as a section of a longer cane; the main plant will regrow. Cuttings should be taken from younger, more supple growth, which is typically a little thicker than a pencil, and can look more purple in color. If the cane is quite bendy or supple, it should root well.

Thinner, younger canes are easier to cut, will heal quicker, and are less woody, so have more adaptive cell tissue.

Taking a Cutting

Removing a section of ocotillo is very simple.

You will need:

• Thick gloves
• Sterilized cutting tools - a garden knife and garden loppers
• A bucket to carry the canes in

After you’ve found a good cane to cut, it’s important to evaluate how thick it is. A clean cut is essential to prevent damage to the parent plant and help the cutting to remain healthy. 

Canes that are even a little too thick or woody, but still suitable for propagation, can be crushed by loppers, so a garden knife may be more suitable for some plants. 

Plants should be cut at a shallow angle to prevent water pooling on the main plant and increase the rooting surface area of the cutting. Take care not to go too steeply, as this creates a wound that is too big and is more likely to rot. 

Before cutting, mark which side of the cane faces south, or south-west. Tying a piece of string around one of the large thorns is an easy way. Desert plants form thicker, more sun-adapted tissue on these sides, and this will help the plant root more successfully by minimizing stress. 

Once cut, place the cutting in the bucket, which makes them much easier to carry, as the thorns can be very sharp.

Preparing the Cutting

Ocotillo stems need to dry out and form a callus before being planted, just as many other desert plants do. 

Store the canes horizontally in a semi-shaded, well-ventilated location. Ocotillo calluses very quickly, and you may find it happens in as little as 2-3 days. 

Canes can then be prepared for planting by dusting the bottoms with rooting hormones or sulfur powder. As well as encouraging the plant to root, this also helps to keep the cane base dry as it roots out.

Preparing the Ground

Ocotillos prefer sandy, slightly loamy soil. As the canes will be very unstable when planted, you may find it beneficial to amend the planting area with small stones or a small amount of gravel to provide some stability and weight at the base. 

Dig a hole that is approximately 4-6 inches deep, and complete any necessary soil amendments. The hole should be approximately 4-6 inches wide as well to help with water infiltration.

Place the cane in the hole, and gently backfill, compressing the soil with your foot to create slightly compacted layers. Amend the top surface with a few larger rocks close to the cane to stabilize the cane against wind or animal disturbance. Once the cane is stable, avoid watering the soil directly for the first few weeks.

Remember to orient the cane in the correct direction. The cane will likely survive even if you don’t do this, but for more extreme weather years, this will really benefit the plant. 

Caring For Your Ocotillo

Ocotillo does not like wet roots. Ocotillo also takes up much of its water through its stems, and is very receptive to humidity, having the ability to open and contract its stems to expose more surface area for photosynthesis and water intake.

Most of the watering for your ocotillo canes should be done through a misting of the stems. A deep watering once a month before the monsoon rains come will stimulate root growth, but misting is most effective, as the cane will not have many roots, if any at all, for the first few months. 

Ocotillo can take anywhere from 3-24 months to root. They are very resilient plants, and a little fussy about environmental conditions. You can check if your ocotillo canes are still alive through the following methods. 

1. Check for visible green on the stems. You may have to look closely, but millimeter ribbons of green are often all that can be seen on dormant plants.
2. Scratch the stem and look for green beneath the stem. In very dormant cases, plants will close up. 
3. Check how flexible the stem feels. Dead stems will be very brittle and will snap. Canes that are still alive will bend, even if only a little, and won’t snap easily.

Propagating From Seeds

Seeds can be collected from your own plants or purchased from reputable sellers online. These seeds are easy to germinate, and can provide transplantable ocotillo within 2 years. 

1. Prepare a well-draining, sandy potting mix in a small to medium container. 
2. Plant the seeds at a depth of around 1 inch, and dampen the soil all the way to the bottom. 
3. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate and sprout above the surface. 
4. Provide intense sunlight, as a lack of, or limited, sunlight will cause seedlings to become heavy with leaves and break. Later afternoon shade will help young plants. I keep my seedlings on a northeast-facing patio.
5. Ocotillo will eventually grow a deep taproot, so a container that is at least 6 inches deep is good. 
6. Water seedlings weekly to encourage healthy growth.

Once the seedling is around 2-4 inches tall and is leafing out regularly, you can transplant it to the final location. Water the plant weekly for the first couple of months, and then reduce the watering schedule, eventually leaving irrigation to natural rainfall. 

Watering once a month in the heat of the summer is helpful for the first two years. 

Wrapping Up

Ocotillo is a delightful plant. They are wonderfully unique, have beautiful flowers, an interesting growth pattern, and a structure that is elegant and dramatic. Ocotillo will flower and leaf regularly once they are well established, which could take multiple years. However, they are an incredibly low-maintenance, keystone plant that will hold a place of pride in your garden and benefit all kinds of wildlife.

In this article, we’ll go through 7 reasons why you might consider adding grasses to your garden, from them being an essential part of a functional habitat, to a way to add practicality, while still being wonderfully aesthetic.

1. Wildlife Habitat and Biodiversity

Grasses are a keystone species in many ecosystems. By adding them to your garden, you create habitat for hundreds of bugs, insects, and bees. Having more pollinators and foundational insects will help your garden thrive as they pollinate, break down organic matter, and provide food to other beneficial insects and animals.

A bonus is that this will, in turn, attract more birds to your garden, which will help with pest control for your fruit and vegetables.

Switchgrasses, bluestem, and needlegrass are excellent choices, providing color, habitat, seeds for birds, and places for insects to overwinter - something that is often overlooked in gardens.

2. Drought Tolerance and Water Conservation

If you’re looking to reduce your garden water usage, which may be a necessity if you’re gardening in a drier area, choosing grasses with deep, fibrous roots is a smart choice. Once established, many ornamental grasses are water-wise and thrive in poor soils. Their deep root systems allow them to withstand long, hot, dry periods, reducing the need for irrigation. Additionally, by planting them strategically, you can shelter your garden beds from the wind and the sun, reducing water evaporation and creating more mild microclimates.

Muhly grasses are great for this kind of planting, being exceptionally drought-tolerant, while still full of color (my favorite is pink muhly). Grasses also pair very well with xeric landscaping, making them key choices for deserts and gravel gardens.

3. Soil Improvement

Many grasses are seasonal and will die or go dormant for part of the year. Because they need to be cut down to the ground during this time, you acquire nutrient-rich mulch and soil conditioner as a result. Grass is also an excellent frost protection blanket for more delicate annuals to overwinter under, and as it decays in the spring, it will feed the upcoming plants. 

Switchgrass, Indian grass, and cordgrass, along with larger grasses like big bluestem, will give you a lot of organic material for the space they occupy, and may provide all of the winter mulch you need for your garden. 

4. Practical Uses

Some grasses are edible, and some produce useful oils. Lemongrass is an easy-to-grow culinary herb, and citronella has helpful oils that can be used in soap making. Common grains such as rice, corn, and wheat are also grasses, and growing a few stalks can be a fun experiment. They can also provide good food for animals if you don’t want to eat it yourself.

Corn is a very easy grass to grow, and the kernels are great for a tasty snack. Many native heirloom varieties are drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.

5. Movement and Seasonal Interest

Grasses are generally very light, and the slightest gusts of wind can make them sway beautifully. They offer visual appeal through various textures and colors, with many varieties providing vibrant color in the fall and structure during winter, which is an excellent way to have a vibrant garden year-round. 

Grasses can help a patio feel more lively, a front porch feel more welcoming, and a herb garden feel more full during the winter months. Grasses also help to soften hardscaping. Molinia, feather grasses, and reeds are excellent considerations here. 

6. Low-maintenance and Variety

Ornamental grasses are generally pest-resistant, disease-free, and require little fertilization. Most only need a single cutting back once a year. They last a long time, and grow deep, healthy roots that can tolerate very poor soils. 

If you’re often busy, grasses are an excellent way to maintain a lively garden with very little work. There are grasses for every type of location - tall ornamental grasses to shade a patio or provide privacy, bushy grasses to fill out a landscape, and small groundcovers to help suppress weeds and create wildlife habitat.

Grasses are also well-suited to pots and containers, which can be very beneficial for grasses like bamboo, which are aggressive spreaders. Grasses can reliably be grown from seed and mature quickly, so if your local garden center doesn’t have many to choose from, you can grow one of the many thousands of varieties.

7. Erosion Control and Soil Stability

Grasses are often pioneer species that move in first to a location. Many grasses are perfect to help you stop erosion on a steep slope, to provide stability while other plants take root. Creeping fescues and prairie grasses are well-suited and can also help wildflowers become established by providing shade and capturing morning dew on their broad leaves. 

A Bonus Reason

They Work Everywhere

Grasses fit into every style of garden: cottage, modern, prairie, xeric, and woodland. They’re equally at home in borders, containers, pathways, and mass plantings. Designers love them because they make everything around them look better — they frame spaces, soften hard edges, and add cohesion without feeling heavy. You can tuck them into courtyards, patios, garden beds, ponds, and even narrow side yards where nothing else seems to work.

There’s truly a place for every grass, and a grass for every place — whether you need height, softness, movement, color, or simply a plant that makes the whole space feel more intentional.

Wrapping Up

Grasses are wonderfully versatile and fantastically beautiful. Because they can fit a wide range of conditions, they’re an excellent choice for any garden, no matter the shape or size. From culinary grasses to low groundcovers to tall ornamentals, there’s a grass for you if you go looking. Whether you’re after movement, wildlife habitat, drought tolerance, or simply a plant that asks for very little, grasses deliver.

Start with one or two varieties that suit your space, and you’ll quickly see how transformative they can be. Once you begin gardening with grasses, it’s hard to imagine a garden without them.

Plan a productive garden

Gardening without a plan can work, but if you’re gardening with the goal of saving money a solid plan can help ensure a successful harvest. A good garden plan helps ensure that you only buy the seeds, plants, and inputs you need and that you’re getting the most out of your garden space. Planter helps to make process of planning your garden easy and fun, and you can adjust your plan as many times as you need to hone it in.

When planning a budget-friendly garden, start small. It’s amazing how much produce can come out of a small space, and a small space means fewer tools, fewer inputs, and less weeding and watering. Scale up once you’ve mastered and maxed out your initial space.

When thinking about which plants to grow, focus on the foods your family likes to eat that can be easily grown in your local area. For more information on how to plan a productive garden check out these articles:

Planning the Harvest – What to Plant and When

Succession Planting & Growing Season Strategies

Succession Planting for Nonstop Harvests

Fresh Eating, Preserving, and Planning for Small Spaces

Shop around for garden tools

While quality gardening tools are a good investment that can last several years, they are also one of the more expensive up-front gardening costs. If the budget is tight, steer clear of fancy-dancy equipment and stick to the basics- rakes, hoes, shovels, trowels, pruners, watering cans, a garden fork, and a wheelbarrow. While gardening gadgets can offer added benefits and ease some of the learning curve with gardening, they’re not strictly necessary. With a bit of know-how and good technique gardening can be very simple. Only you can decide if a special gardening accessory offers enough potential benefit to you to fit it into the budget.

To find budget-friendly gardening tools, check out auctions, second hand stores, your local garden club, and online used marketplaces (keep safety in mind when shopping the online classifieds). It’s usually pretty easy to find basic used garden tools and they should still have life left in them unless they’ve been really abused. It’s often possible to repair and refurbish garden tools so they can continue being used for many years to come.

If you want to buy new tools or equipment, it pays to shop around and look for sales. Sometimes it can be more cost-effective in the long run to pay more up front for higher quality tools, but if your budget is constrained don’t feel like you have to splurge just to get started. With cheaper quality tools you may need to replace them in a few years, but perhaps by that point your garden will have evolved to where a bigger investment makes sense.

Reuse and upcycle

Many everyday items that we and others throw out can have a second life in a budget conscious garden. There are good reasons to buy supplies specifically designed for gardening, but when budgets are tight these recycled materials can make good substitutes.

For starting seeds and potting up plants, look for containers that can be recycled- yoghurt cups, solo cups, plastic and foil trays can all be used for seed starting. Be sure to add drainage holes so your seedlings don’t sit in excess water and rot. You might also be able to source used seed starting trays and pots from nursery transplants that you can clean and reuse.

Many gardeners have success with container gardening in food-grade 5 gallon buckets. You can sometimes source these inexpensively by asking around at restaurants or delis, or by checking local classifieds. You will need to add drainage holes and invest some money in potting mix to fill them up, but they are a great way to grow a lot of food economically in a small space.

Besides containers, there are many other materials that can be re-purposed in the garden. Used lumber and pallets can be turned into raised garden beds, compost bins, planters, and other garden structures. If the wood is in direct contact with the soil or compost be sure it hasn’t been treated or painted as that could put unwanted chemicals in your food. Wire racks, old wooden ladders, and metal box springs can also be transformed into trellises, arches, fences, and plant holders- creativity is really the limit!

Gather free inputs

Buying garden soil, potting, mix, and soil amendments can quickly add up, but there are lots of free ways to improve the health of your soil and to make purchased soil go further.

If you’re not already composting, composting is the best possible way to turn organic waste into a nutritious soil amendment. If you don’t have space for a compost bin or pile, try bokashi ‘composting’ or worm composting (vermicomposting). Check out Compost: Add Life to Your Garden for more information on composting.

Leaves and grass clippings can be used as garden mulch or as additions to your compost pile. If you don’t have enough in your own yard, offer to collect your neighbors’ as well! Confirm that the grass and leaves haven’t been sprayed with any pesticides, herbicides or other chemicals that could kill your plants or introduce toxins into your food.

Arborists will sometimes drop off free truckloads of wood chips if you ask them; wood chips can be used as mulch in pathways, orchards, and even potentially on your garden beds with some precautions. If you can’t take a whole truckload of wood chips at a time, you can sometimes find other gardeners willing to share their loads of woodchips in online classifieds. Branches and logs can also be used to help fill the bottom of raised garden beds- this saves significantly on the initial cost of filling them with soil mix as you’ll only need to add about 12-18” (30-45 cm) of soil mix on top. The wood will slowly decompose and add nutrients to the bed, and the beds will only need a small annual top-up of soil or compost as the wood breaks down. Branches can also be used to make DIY natural trellises.

If you have free access to livestock manure that can also be a great addition to the compost pile (or to the garden provided it has time to break down before planting). Do not use dog/cat/human manure as it can potentially make you sick, and with other animal manures be sure they haven’t been fed any feed that could contain persistent herbicides as these can have toxic effects on your plants for months or even years to come.

Look for seed swaps and plant sales

Many communities have active garden clubs that host seed swaps and plant sales - often in the spring as the gardening season ramps up. At seed swaps you can usually still get seeds for free even if you don’t have any yet to contribute (in future years hopefully you will!) Through your local garden club you’ll also meet fellow gardeners who you can exchange seeds and plants with directly throughout the year. Some public libraries also now offer seed libraries where you can pick up free seeds.

Plant sales are fundraisers where gardeners donate extra plants for free and you can often buy plants at a reduced cost compared to a garden center. It’s not only garden clubs that offer plant sales- some community and neighborhood organizations host them as well, so be on the lookout.

With seed swaps and plant sales you may not find the exact varieties you were looking for- and you might end up with a few surprises- but as long as you don’t veer too far off course from your garden plan they can be a great way to save money.

Start your own seeds

Some plants need to be started indoors or otherwise purchased as transplants from a garden center. If you’re planning to grow more than a couple plants you can save a significant amount of money by starting your own seeds indoors. To start seeds indoors you’ll need some containers and a quality seed starting mix. If possible a grow light can make a huge difference in your ability to start seeds successfully. If you can’t swing a grow light in the budget you can start seeds in a sunny windowsill, but the results can sometimes be poor depending on how much sunlight comes through (especially when days are shorter). Other seed starting equipment such as heat mats, shelves, special trays, and watering systems can help but for the most part these are optional.

Propagate plants from cuttings

Many plants can be grown by taking cuttings from an existing plant and rooting them in water or a moist growing medium. Propagating plants from cuttings is a great way to multiply plants on a budget. Not all plants can be propagated easily from cuttings, so be sure to check before starting. You can find fellow gardeners with plants you can take cuttings from, otherwise some plants can even be propagated from grocery store cuttings- especially certain herbs. For an example of how to do this check out this article on How to Propagate Basil. While it’s ideal to choose plant varieties that are adapted to your climate versus whatever happens to be in the grocery store, if you’re buying herbs to cook with anyways and save a few stems to propagate it can be a cost-efficient way to grow more herbs.

Preserve and use your harvest

To get the most out of your gardening investments, don’t let your harvest go to waste! Get creative with your cooking to use up what you can, and try different preservation methods to store any produce that you can’t use fresh. To help with this we’ve written several articles that offer inspiration on using and storing your harvest:

A Garden Inspired Feast

Our Favorite Fall Garden Recipes

Use It or Lose It: What to Do with a Veggie Glut

A Beginner’s Guide to Canning

Root Cellaring Without a Root Cellar

If you’re looking to keep fresh produce in your diet without breaking the bank it is possible to garden in a way that saves money. Gardening offers so many benefits beyond money savings, though. From a strictly financial point of view gardening might not be the best time investment, but if gardening brings you enjoyment and fulfillment it is well worth doing.

Columnar cacti are relatively simple to propagate, though the method can vary. In part 3 of this series, we’ll cover the ways to increase the number of columns in your garden and care for the parent plant after you’ve taken a cutting.

Taking a Cutting

The most effective method for most columnar cacti is to take a stem cutting. A cutting between 6 and 12 inches tall is ideal, although on smaller varieties, 2-3 inches is plenty. Taller cuttings can work, but they take longer to establish and are more prone to tipping due to their weight.

Things You’ll Need:

• A healthy parent plant
• A sharp garden knife
• 80% alcohol or another sterilizing agent
• Thick gloves and long sleeves
• Rooting hormone powder (optional)
• Well‑draining potting mix

The best time to take a columnar cactus cutting is in late spring or early summer, when the plant is healthy after the winter rains, but the temperature is not yet too hot. This balances the conditions and maximizes the chance of plant survival.

Choosing and Taking a Healthy Cutting

First, select a healthy parent plant with robust color and good growth that is not wrinkled or dry. Look for a segment that is at least 6-8 inches long and has plenty of areoles (the raised nodes along the stem), as these will produce most of the roots. You can take the cutting from the main growing stem or one of the offset shoots. 

Using your clean, sterile knife, cut the cactus just below an areole at a 45-degree angle, taking care not to nick other parts of the cactus. If the column has a ‘joint’, this is an excellent place to make the cut, and we’ll explain a little more on this later. 

Adjustments For Cacti With Joints

Some columnar cacti form joints, either along their main stems (these will be slightly constricted lines with hard tissue growth) or through arms, like myrtillocactus geometrizans. If your plant has these joints, these are excellent places to cut. The plant will root more readily from these areas as the tissue is denser, and the cut site will be smaller, allowing the plant to heal more quickly. 

Follow all the steps listed here, but note that drying and rooting will likely be faster.

Callus Your Cutting

After taking your cutting, let the wound dry and callus fully before planting. Columnar cacti may take 2-4 weeks or more to fully dry because the cut surface is larger and holds more moisture.

Place the cutting in a bright, airy spot out of direct sun and protected from rain. Good airflow speeds drying and reduces the chance of fungal issues. Rotate the cutting every few days to discourage aerial roots, which often form when one side stays shaded or pressed against a surface.

A fully callused cutting will have a firm, dry, corky surface with no remaining moisture. Once it reaches this stage, it’s ready to plant.

Rooting the Cutting

Plant your cutting in a well-draining potting mix. Keep the amount of organic matter low to reduce the chance of rot; I’ve found that incorporating some rocky soil from the garden works very well. Stake your cactus with canes if needed; you want it to stay steady while it roots.

Your cutting will likely shrivel in the weeks after you plant it, but resist the temptation to water it until it roots (around 3-4 weeks). The cacti will lose some water in the rooting process, but a well-sized cutting will have plenty of reserves and will fill out again after it roots.

Looking For Roots

My favorite test for roots with columnar cacti is to gently lift the cactus and see if the pot lifts with it. Lifting it just a quarter inch off the ground is enough. You can also look for a more vibrant coloring at the tip, or if there are any offsets from the areoles; this means the plant has rooted and is beginning to grow again.

Watering and Transplanting

Once roots emerge, water lightly and allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. As it becomes more established, start soaking the soil more deeply and more infrequently. The aim is to adapt it to dry conditions. 

Once the plant has well-established roots, is a robust, healthy color, and is putting out new growth, it’s ready to be transplanted to the final location. This usually takes a few months. 

After transplanting, water thoroughly, and then water once a week for 4-6 weeks to encourage root spreading. During the first couple of years, you may need to water it once a month during the dry spells, but it should become independent quite quickly; just keep an eye on it. 

Caring for the Parent Plant

The parent plant now has an exposed wound. The 45-degree angle of the cut, or cut at the joint, will minimize damage, but there are some steps you can take to speed up recovery.

• Additional watering - a good soak every 1-2 weeks will help the plant scab over the site. 
• Shade - bird netting will provide a 10% shade increase, which can reduce sun scorch.
• A small amount of cactus and succulent fertilizer during the late spring can renew vigor in the plant.
• Watch for pests, particularly cactus borer, that may take advantage of the soft tissue.

The parent plant will likely produce multiple offsets from the cut site that will grow from the surrounding areoles. Choosing an offset to begin with means you can retain a healthy main stem, with new growth that starts closer to the ground and is easier to manage.

Wrapping Up

With a clean cut, a full callus, and a gritty soil mix, most columnar species root reliably. The process takes time, but each stage is simple, and the plants are far more resilient than they appear. Given a few months of careful attention and the right conditions, your cutting will establish itself and begin the slow climb toward maturity, soon becoming a wonderful garden addition.

Agaves are incredibly resilient plants and a staple in desert and xeriscape gardens. Their thick leaves, fibrous roots, and carbohydrate‑rich cores allow detached pups and bulbils to survive long periods with minimal water while they establish new roots.

In this article, we’ll dive into propagation techniques and methods for growing agave. Let’s dive in.

The Primary Propagation Methods

There are three main methods for agave propagation, and each comes at a different stage of an agave’s life cycle. 

Pups

This is the easiest and most accessible method, as most agave species produce pups regularly. Agave americana, for example, will produce a handful of pups every year if the conditions are right and the plant is mature enough – usually after 3-4 years. Some agaves are solitary, however, such as A. ovatifolia, which won’t produce pups until they flower.

Choosing a Good Pup

A few cues help you pick the strongest candidates:

• Leaves should be plump and unblemished, with no soft spots or signs of rot.
• The pup should have a clear, well‑formed center—tiny, tight leaves emerging from the middle.
• A size between 3–8 inches roots most reliably: large enough to have stored energy, small enough to handle easily.

Avoid pups that are yellowing, shriveled, or growing in deep shade under the parent—they often struggle to establish.

Tools you’ll need

• A small garden trowel
• A sharp, sterilized knife, pruning saw, or pruning shears
• Thick gloves (agave can be spiky!)
• A pot filled with fast‑draining sandy cactus mix

Steps:

Use the trowel to gently excavate around the pup until you can see where it connects to the mother plant, keeping as many roots intact as possible. Not all pups will have roots, and that’s okay.

Removing the Pup

If the pup is attached by a fleshy tuber or rhizome, cut it as close to the mother plant as you can. Avoid ripping or twisting as the flesh is delicate. Loosen the surrounding soil and lift the pup from the base, keeping any attached roots intact.

Callusing

Set the pup in bright, indirect light for one to three days. The cut end should dry into a firm, matte, corky surface. If the pup has no tuber, only roots, you can plant it immediately, either in a pot or in the ground.

Planting

Place the pup so the base sits on the soil surface. Agaves are prone to rotting at the rosette base, so bury only the roots and tubers.

Early Watering

Water until the soil is damp, then let it dry completely. After that, water sparingly but regularly to encourage new root growth—once a week is a good guide.

Transplanting

When the pup has firm roots and a rich, even color, it’s ready for the ground or a larger pot. Acclimate it to full sun before planting. Water every two weeks for 1-2 months, then let natural rainfall take over. Some agave root in a matter of weeks, while others take a few months.

Bulbils

Bulbils are the second major way to propagate agave. When a mature plant sends up its towering flower stalk, some species produce hundreds of tiny plantlets along the spent bloom stems. 

Not every agave makes bulbils. Species such as Agave americana and A. vivipara are very reliable producers, while others, such as Agave shawii, do not produce any at all.

Harvesting and Rooting Bulbils

Bulbils root easily and with a high success rate. By late summer, as the stalk dries, they typically reach 2–3 inches tall and develop a pale, slightly white base. A gentle tug should detach them; if they resist or feel soft, give them more time.

Tools you’ll need

• Thick gloves (agave can be spiky!)
• Pots of seedling trays with fast-draining cactus soil

Steps:

With your hands, detach the bulbil with a gentle tug. Avoid tearing the base—this is where new roots will emerge.

Callusing

Allow 1-5 days of callusing. Once the base has turned white and looks a little corky, they’re ready to plant.

Planting

Set the bulbil on top of a gritty cactus mix and nestle it slightly into the surface. A coarse, fast‑draining blend prevents moisture from lingering around the base. Pebbles are good for support.

Early Watering

Keep the soil barely moist. Light misting every few days is usually enough until roots form.

Increasing Water

When the bulbil resists a gentle tug or begins producing new leaves, shift to deeper but infrequent watering—about once a week.

Transplanting

When the bulbil has firm roots and a rich, even color, it’s ready for the ground or a larger pot. Acclimate it to full sun before planting. Water every two weeks for 1-2 months, then let natural rainfall take over. Some agave root in a matter of weeks, while others take a few months.

Seed Propagation

Seed propagation is the slowest but most genetically diverse way to grow agave. While pups and bulbils produce clones, seeds introduce variation that strengthens long‑term resilience. Agave seeds are short‑lived, so fresher seed almost always germinates better than older seed.

Seeds develop in pods along the main flowering stalk. Each pod contains dozens of seeds and is ready to harvest when it turns brown and begins to split. Because the stalk can be quite tall, you may need a ladder to safely collect a few mature pods.

Once you’ve collected the pods, the seeds need a short drying period to ensure they store well and germinate cleanly. Fresh pods often hold a bit of residual moisture, and drying helps prevent mold.

• Spread the seeds in a single layer on a paper towel or a clean tray.
• Let them air‑dry for 3–7 days in a warm, shaded spot with good airflow.
• Once fully dry, the seeds should feel firm and papery, not flexible or tacky.

Sowing Agave Seed

Warmth, light, and a gritty, sterile medium are the three pillars of successful germination. Agave seedlings are surprisingly easy to grow when these conditions are met.

Planting in late spring is best. Warm soil (70–85°F) speeds germination and reduces the risk of fungi.

Tools you’ll need

• A shallow tray or small pots
• Sterile, fast‑draining seed mix (cactus mix with added pumice or sand)
• A spray bottle
• A humidity dome or clear cover (optional but helpful)

Steps

Prepare the soil.  

Fill your tray or pots with a gritty, sterile mix.

Sow the seeds.  

Press the seeds gently into the surface. They need light to germinate, so keep them only lightly covered.

Moisten and cover.  

Mist the soil until damp, then cover the tray with a humidity dome. Keep the mix lightly moist—not wet—and vent daily to prevent fungal growth.

Provide bright, indirect light.  

Most seeds germinate within 7–21 days under warm, bright conditions.

Care for seedlings.  

Once sprouted, water from the bottom to avoid disturbing the roots and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Transplant when sturdy.  

When seedlings have several true leaves and a small root system, move them into individual pots filled with gritty cactus mix. Water them deeply and infrequently, watching for signs of over- and under-watering.

Watch and wait. 

After 1–2 years of steady growth and proper acclimation, young agaves are ready for transplanting into the garden in spring. Acclimate young starts in the same way you would pups or bulbils in early-mid spring.

Wrapping Up

Propagating agave is immensely satisfying. They root well, adapt to their environment quickly, and support a wide range of animal and insect species. Their drought tolerance and range of shapes and colors make them an attractive addition to any garden, and their life cycle means you may never have to buy another agave plant ever again.

​Start with Structure​

When planning a garden from scratch, the best place to start is with “the bones.” The plants that give structure to a garden. Think hedges that offer privacy, trees that separate spaces, and tall shrubs that mark garden paths. ​Edible plants that offer structure:

​Hawthorn

Traditionally used for hedges because its spiky thorns act as a natural deterrent. In the fall, the berries feed wild birds.  The berries can be made into a jam or dried for tea.

​Fruit Trees

​Fruit trees can be planted for height in the back of a border. Dwarf tree varieties offer compact solutions for smaller gardens.  Many fruit trees can be trained in the style of espalier,  parallel tiers, to create a “living fence”. Pear and apple trees are perfect for this style of growing.

 ​Elderberry

Elderberry plants are good choices for the edible garden. In the spring, their flowers can be used to make fermented drinks or battered for a tasty spring treat. In the fall, their berries are packed with anthocyanins and are commonly used to make elderberry syrup. The birds love the berries too. Be sure to use the Sambucus nigra varieties and research the proper ways to prepare elderberries for consumption. ​

Mesquite Trees

​If you live in the Southwestern United States or Mexico, the mesquite tree (Prosopis spp.) is a lovely addition to an edible garden.  The pods are edible and have been harvested for centuries by indigenous people, who prepare and mill them into flour.  Pods can be harvested when they are ripe.  Mesquite pods must be properly dried before milling, so be sure to research this before attempting. Even if you don’t plan on using the pods, these trees are beautiful in a desert garden.

​Olive Trees

​Olive trees can give your garden a beautiful Mediterranean look, even if you don’t live in a warm environment. Olive trees can be grown in containers and protected over the winter months.  Olive trees look really nice with other edible Mediterranean plants like lavender and rosemary. ​

Second Layer

​After you’ve got your structure giving plants, it’s time to think about the next layer, which is usually medium-sized shrubs and perennials.

​Rosemary

Rosemary is great for the edible garden because it comes in many sizes. You can plant taller varieties like ‘Tuscan Blue’ to form short hedges or low-growing ones to create a spreading effect.

​Roses

Roses are a classic in any garden.  From climbers and ramblers, to floribundas and shrub types, there is a rose for everyone. The best roses for edible purposes are the species kinds like Rugosa. Dried rose petals make a lovely addition to tea blends or jellies. In the fall, rose hips look pretty, and you can make rose hip jams.

​Blueberry

Blueberry bushes can be a perfect edible plant for beauty, as long as you give them the right conditions. Blueberry bushes prefer acidic soil.  Blueberries can be grown in containers.  In the autumn, the leaves offer seasonal color interest.

​Lavender

Lavender is a top choice for the edible garden because it’s very easy to grow in the right environment. It thrives in very warm weather and plenty of sun, but most importantly, the roots have very good drainage. Lavender buds are highly fragrant and used in baking, cooking, making syrups, and teas. Use English (angustifolia) varieties for culinary use. Other types can have a more “soapy” flavor and are better used for aromatherapy. ​

The Last Layer

The final layer is of course, plants that are short, low-growing, or groundcover. Let’s explore a few:​

Lingonberry

​Lingonberries are related to blueberries and cranberries, native to Scandinavia, Europe, and northern areas of the United States, such as Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  Lingonberries are a unique plant to grow and are starting to appear around some nurseries.  If you are looking to try something new and live in an area with cooler temperatures and acidic soil, why not grow a few lingonberry plants as groundcover?   Lingonberries can be grown in the same area as blueberries, too.  The shiny leaves are evergreen, providing year-round interest. The little red berries are tart and similar in taste to cranberries. Although you’d need quite a few productive plants to really make a good harvest, the lingonberry is a fun plant to add to an edible garden. ​

Thyme

Thyme is such a versatile plant: a culinary herb, a medicinal herb, good for pollinators, and an ornamental. Grow thyme as an attractive ground cover or between pavers or pathways. ​

Oregano​

Oregano is similar to thyme in terms of versatility.  Little white flowers are great for pollinators and add beauty to the garden. ​

More Ideas​

• Grow a combination of climbing edibles like tomatoes and nasturtiums up a trellis for a colorful centerpiece of the garden​.

• Rhubarb plants make a statement in the spring with their red and green combination​.

• Create a veggie tunnel by growing cucumbers, squash, or extra small pumpkins over an arched trellis.

• Add plants for movement, but instead of grass, choose fennel, dill, and asparagus, which will wave in the wind. ​

  

• More edibles to landscape with: citrus trees, chives, sunflowers, dahlias, calendula, lilac, and hostas.

  

​With edible landscaping, you get to enjoy your garden with all of your senses!  Start planning your dream foodie garden today with the Planter App.

Clever Adaptations

Paddle cacti grow in distinct segments that are designed to detach. Each pad is a self‑contained reservoir of water and stored energy, and the joint between pads is a natural break point. Detached pads seal their wounds quickly, resist rot when kept dry, and send out roots with very little encouragement.

Paddle cacti are best propagated in mid-spring when the chance of frost is well past, and the plants have taken in the winter rains, although any season but winter will work with some adaptations.

Choosing a Good Pad

When you’re selecting a pad to propagate, start by looking at the whole plant’s health. A good parent plant will have plenty of mature, thick pads with strong color and clean surfaces. Pads with wrinkles, soft spots, scabs, or signs of past wounds are less suitable.

Age matters too. A pad that’s at least a year old has already adapted to the local climate and built up enough stored energy to support new root growth. Very young pads are still thin and tender, while very old pads can be woody or oversized.

Size is the most reliable factor in choosing a pad. Larger pads can root, but they take longer to settle and are more likely to topple or stay unstable in the soil. In practice, pads between three and eight inches tend to root the most reliably as they are well-sized and not too old.

Removing the Pad

Pads should be carefully removed at the woody join. I have found it easiest to use a clean, sharp garden knife or shears to make a clean cut.

Because paddle cacti have both large spines and much smaller, often near-invisible glochids, take extra care when handling pads. Smooth-ended barbecue tongs are my tool of choice, although many gardeners will also use newspaper or old carpet to carry them. 

Prepping the Pad for Potting

Once removed, every pad needs time to callus. This drying period reduces the risk of rot by sealing the wound into a firm, white, corky surface. Depending on humidity and pad thickness, this can take anywhere from three days to two weeks. A fully callused end looks matte and chalky, with no lingering moisture.

When the pad is ready, plant it in a fast‑draining mix. A gritty soil keeps excess moisture away from the wound and encourages roots to reach downward. A 50/50 blend of sandy native soil and commercial cactus mix works well in my experience because it both feeds the plant and acclimates it to the conditions it will eventually grow in. The pad should sit upright or slightly angled. You may need stakes to support taller pads.

Watering and Early Root Development

Once a pad is planted, the most important thing you can do is not water it. A freshly callused pad contains enough stored moisture to sustain itself for weeks. If the mix stays damp, the pad is less likely to root and is far more likely to rot from the base upward.

For the first two to three weeks, simply leave the pad in bright, indirect light and let the soil remain completely dry. Warmth speeds things along, so a spot that stays above 70°F during the day is ideal. 

After a few weeks, you can test for early rooting by gently pulling on the pad. A pad that has begun to root will feel slightly anchored, as if it’s gripping the soil. If it lifts easily, set it back and give it more time. Once you feel that first bit of resistance, you can begin watering lightly—just enough to moisten the top inch of soil. Then let it dry out completely again before the next watering.

Rooting speed varies by species, temperature, and pad size. Smaller pads often root within two to four weeks, while larger ones may take six or more. The first visible sign of success is usually swelling and deepening color at the top of the pad, followed by the emergence of a new segment. When that new growth appears, you can be confident the plant has established a functioning root system.

In-Ground Planting

When the pad has rooted, acclimate the cactus to the conditions of its final planting location over the course of a week or so, and then plant as you would any other plant. 

A moderate soak once a month for the first 3-6 months will help the cactus naturalize itself to the rainfall in your area, and from then on it should be plain sailing!

Problems to Watch For

Even with good pads and proper soil, a few issues can show up during propagation. These quick cues help you spot trouble early.

• Rot at the base — Softness, darkening, or a sour smell usually means moisture reached the cut too soon. Many pads will survive this, so all is not lost.
• Shriveling — Light wrinkling is normal as the pad uses stored moisture. Deep folds or a limp feel suggest it’s losing water too quickly, often from heat or too much sun.
• Sunburn — Pale, yellow, or bleached patches indicate the pad is getting more sun than it can handle before rooting. Move it to partial shade until new growth appears.
• Instability — Pads that lean or fall over typically haven’t rooted yet or are simply top‑heavy. A small stake helps keep them upright without burying them deeper.
• Slow or no rooting — If there’s no anchoring after several weeks, the cut may not have fully callused, the soil may be too rich, or temperatures may be too cool. Keep it in good condition and keep waiting - it can take months to root sometimes.

Wrapping Up

Working with paddle cacti is incredibly rewarding. After just a couple of years of propagating you can have many more thriving plants, each producing fruit and flowers for you and wildlife to enjoy.

Check out the other articles in this series to learn how to propagate other cactus types.

Do you have your garden plans finalized and your seeds ordered for this year? If not, now’s the time to start planning in Planter!

As the seed starting season gets underway, we’re launching two handy new plant Quick Info tiles in Planter to help boost your seed starting success: Germination Temperature and Seedling ID.

Looking ahead to upcoming changes in 2026, we also have a new podcast episode out where Peter gives a sneak peek of the upcoming Gardens 2.0 upgrade.

Check out what we’ve been up lately @ Planter:

What’s Growing On?

New Plants…And Grains!

Heading into the new season we’ve been busy adding the most upvoted plants from the Planter Request List.

Near the top of the list were requests for more grains- scroll down to the “Grains” section to see the new grain plant options!

Still missing key plants for your 2026 garden? Add your own custom plants quickly and easily! Click the link below to learn how:

Learn How to Add Custom Plants

New Plant Quick Info Tiles

We’ve recently added two new plant Quick Info tiles to help with seed starting:

Germination Temperature: Indicates the optimal soil temperature range for germinating seeds for each plant. The germination temperatures for the most common plants are populated and we will be adding more in the coming weeks.

Seedling ID: When starting seeds outdoors it can be tricky to tell what’s a seedling and what’s a weed. Use the Seedling ID tile to get a sense of what your seedlings or young plant sprouts will look like (hint: select the tile to expand the image).

Social Media Spotlight

Join Peter, Milan, and Erin as they share their 2026 garden plans in Planter and talk about their approach for this year. Peter also shares a sneak peak of Gardens 2.0 in Planter including containers, rounded beds, and Greenstalks!

Growing Guide Highlights

This article explores how frost behaves in the Desert Southwest, how to plan your garden with frost (and even snow) in mind, and practical ways to prepare for sudden cold snaps when they occur.

Read: Frost in the Desert Southwest

Now’s a great time to plan a winter wellness garden. Imagine being able to step outside and harvest remedies from your yard!

Read: Winter Wellness Garden

Part 1 in a series on nocturnal pollinators: learn who the night pollinators are, why they matter in the garden, and the conditions they need.

Read: Nocturnal Pollinators

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In Part 3 of this series, we’ll explore practical tips, design ideas, and simple strategies for creating your own moon garden.

Choosing a Location

A moon garden is best placed where moonlight naturally falls, ideally in a spot shielded from strong artificial lights. Low, shielded lights are generally fine, though you can always plan to switch nearby lights off late at night.

Pay attention to wind and microclimate. Light evening breezes will help fragrance travel, but too much wind can disrupt pollinators. Sheltered spots will hold scent “pockets” and stay slightly warmer after dark, extending nighttime activity for moths, beetles, and fireflies.

Consider also how you plan to experience the garden. Create it where it is accessible to you. Even small courtyards, balconies, or narrow side yards can work as miniature moon gardens, especially when enhanced with pots and trellises.

No matter the size, prioritize a layout that’s easy to move through safely after dark. Curved paths, low lighting, and clearly defined borders help create a space that feels safe, inviting, and richly atmospheric for both you and the nocturnal wildlife you’re welcoming in.

Choosing Plants

In Part 2, we explored many excellent night-friendly species, but nearly any flowering plant can contribute to a moon garden. Pale colors—especially whites, silvers, soft yellows, and light pinks—stand out beautifully under moonlight, while fragrant varieties draw nocturnal visitors from surprising distances. When planning your plant palette, a few principles can help you create a cohesive, high-impact display:

Group plants with similar scents. Fragrance layers beautifully when related notes are placed together—sweet florals with florals, herbal scents with herbal scents, spicy with spicy. This prevents muddled or overpowering combinations for you and makes it easier for moths and beetles to follow consistent scent trails.

Group plants by similar colors or textures. Because moonlight is dim and cool-toned, subtle differences in shade become exaggerated. A dull white blossom can appear grey or dingy next to a glossy, reflective bloom. Keeping color groups consistent—pale yellows with yellows, silvery foliage with silvery foliage—creates harmony and maximizes nighttime glow.

Build a layered structure. A successful moon garden has vertical and horizontal depth. Trees can form the overstory and offer shelter; shrubs provide nesting space and help shield the area from stray light; perennials and groundcovers fill in the understory. Dense plantings, with sheltered gaps spaced throughout, create pockets of warmth and refuge where nighttime insects feel safe to feed and court.

Think seasonally. Many moon gardens peak in summer, but extending bloom time transforms the space into a nighttime refuge from early spring through late fall. Choose early bloomers (such as hellebores or native spring ephemerals) to support the first waking pollinators in February and March, and late-season options (like asters, goldenrod, or autumn-blooming anemones) to keep activity high into October and November.

Building an Ecosystem

Even a single pot of flowers can draw nighttime visitors—my own small bed of vinca, not a particularly famous night plant, still attracts dozens of moths at dusk. But to support more species, and to transform your moon garden from a simple planting into a functional nocturnal habitat, a few additional elements make a tremendous difference:

Provide water. A shallow dish, birdbath, or gently sloped basin with stones to create shallow areas provides moths, beetles, and other night-foraging insects with a reliable place to drink. Moving water is even better, as the sound and humidity help guide insects after dark, so you could go for a pond or fountain project if you have the time.

Leave leaf litter where possible. Leaf litter is one of the most important resources for nocturnal insects. Fireflies use it for breeding, many moths pupate within it, and countless beetles shelter there during the day. A small, quiet corner where leaves can collect undisturbed adds enormous habitat value.

Incorporate dead wood. Rotting logs, hollow stems, and small twig piles serve as nesting sites, hunting grounds, and moisture reservoirs for nocturnal species. Beetles lay eggs in decaying wood, solitary bees nest in pithy stems, and many fungi and microfauna that support the ecosystem flourish there.

Avoid pesticides and herbicides. Even “mild” or organic formulations can harm caterpillars, beetles, and fireflies. Reducing or eliminating chemical use—especially in the moon-garden area—ensures that the nighttime visitors you attract can safely feed, breed, and complete their life cycles.

A Few Design Ideas

Here are some ideas to guide your own moon garden design.

Dappled Colors Anchor the garden with a small tree such as a dwarf birch at the point farthest from where moonlight enters. Surround its base with mossy groundcover and airy ornamental grasses further out to create pockets of gentle movement.

On the moon-facing side, plant a tiered bed of white and soft pink flowers. Place glossy-leaved, reflective plants in the lower layers and taller, softer-toned plants behind to create a subtle gradient. Add a trellis at the back for a climbing vine. In a small clearing, use a terracotta saucer as a water basin, edged with mossy stones, and place a bench beneath the birch with two low, shielded solar lights for soft illumination.

The mix of reflective foliage and soft, layered textures creates depth under low light, allowing moonbeams to catch on leaves and blooms so the garden appears to shimmer gently after dark.

Mini Paradise Ideal for patios or small spaces. Arrange three large pots in an L-shape and two smaller pots in front for depth. In one large pot, build a garden-cane pyramid with a pale-flowered or silver-foliage vine, underplanted with glossy, fragrant herbs and small flowers.

Fill the smaller pots with dwarf shrubs and frame them with trailing plants or groundcovers. Plant white and purple blooms in the remaining large pots, reserving space in one for a medium ornamental grass and a small solar fountain. Outline the arrangement with low mini-solar lights and add a small bistro table and chairs for a compact, fragrant, and inviting corner.

This mix of pots will retain heat well in their cluster and create a dense, vibrant pollinator paradise.

Wild Wonderland For larger gardens, choose a canopy tree with one or two understory trees and fill spaces with bunch grasses, shrubs, and mossy pockets. Create gentle rises and dips, a small pond with partial afternoon shade, and plant marsh-loving species and flowers around it.

Mulch heavily and leave some dead wood in semi-open spaces for insects and other nocturnal wildlife. Install a bird box once trees mature, space small solar lights a few feet apart, and place a bench in a suitable place so you can comfortably enjoy the garden.

Wrapping Up

Designing a moon garden is all about having fun and supporting nature simultaneously. By following good principles, you can create a vibrant, easy-to-maintain space. With thoughtful plant choices, layered habitats, and a little nighttime magic, your moon garden can become a haven for pollinators and a quiet retreat for you, lighting up both the garden and your evenings.

Planting a few night-focused species can act as “anchors,” drawing moths, beetles, bats, and other nocturnal visitors across your garden. In Part 2 of this series, we’ll explore the traits that make plants attractive at night and highlight several excellent species to help you start or expand your after-dark garden.

What Makes a Plant Vibrant After Dark

Two traits matter most at night: fragrance and reflective color.

Moonlight is cooler and dimmer than sunlight, so many bright daytime colors—reds, oranges, strong blues—appear muted or nearly invisible after dusk. Whites, silvers, pale yellows, greys, and leaves with waxy or glossy surfaces reflect even faint light, helping nocturnal pollinators locate them.

Plants that rely on scent often take the opposite approach: richly colored daytime blooms (pinks, purples, reds) dramatically increase fragrance at night to guide pollinators to nectar.

A resilient night garden typically includes both types.

Choosing Plants

Native plants are always an excellent starting point, but many non-invasive ornamentals also thrive in night gardens. When selecting species, aim for:

• A bloom sequence across the seasons, including key migration periods
• A mix of colors and scents for different nocturnal pollinators
• Layers of structure—shrubs, small trees, flowers, grasses—for food and habitat

Diverse plantings increase nighttime visitation and also support diurnal pollinators, creating a garden that’s active around the clock. Local gardening groups, university extensions, and regional books will have detailed information on the nighttime pollinators in your area.

Keystone Host Plants

These species support huge numbers of insects—caterpillars, beetles, fireflies, and leaf-feeding larvae that fuel the entire nocturnal food chain. They also contribute structural habitat for bats and nighttime foragers.

Oaks (Quercus spp.)

Oaks are among the most important plants in any wildlife garden, supporting hundreds of caterpillar species, including many large-bodied moths that bats rely on. Their deep leaf litter provides breeding habitat for fireflies and shelter for beetles. 

Birches (Betula spp.)

Birches play a similar role to oaks, though they attract different species of moth larvae. They grow more quickly and are smaller trees, so they are suitable for smaller gardens. Their pale bark is also quite visible in moonlight.

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)

Goldenrod is a powerhouse for late-season nectar and supports more insect species than almost any other perennial; it attracts over 100 species of moth alone! After flowering, the stems and leaf bases serve as hunting grounds for firefly larvae and as overwintering habitats for beneficial insects.

Yucca (Yucca filamentosa and regional natives)

Yucca plants have a famous mutualistic relationship with yucca moths, which pollinate the flowers exclusively. At night, their white, bell-shaped blooms become highly visible, even in low light, and release more fragrance as temperatures cool. Yuccas also offer dense basal structure for beetles and firefly larvae.

Night-Blooming or Night-Perfuming Nectar Plants

These plants attract nocturnal visitors by producing scent or nectar after dusk. They’re excellent for drawing moths, beetles, and night-flying insects into the garden.

Night-Blooming Cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum and related species)

Perhaps the most dramatic of all night bloomers, night-blooming cereus opens enormous white flowers for only a few hours—typically once a year—but the fragrance is powerful and highly attractive to large moths and nectar-feeding beetles. 

Night Phlox (Zaluzianskya capensis)

This small annual is ideal for patios or walkways because its fragrance intensifies at dusk, releasing a sweet vanilla–honey aroma. It performs well in containers and fills gaps in bloom schedules.

Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis or native species)

Evening primrose opens its blooms rapidly at dusk—sometimes in under a minute—providing an immediate nectar source for sphinx moths, nocturnal bees, and various beetles. The bright yellow flowers remain visible in low light. Later in the season, the seed heads feed finches and night-foraging small mammals.

Four O’Clocks (Mirabilis jalapa and native Mirabilis spp.)

These flowers open in late afternoon and continue releasing fragrance into the night. Their tubular blooms cater to moths and long-tongued beetles, while the plants tolerate heat, drought, and poor soils. A good option for gardeners in warmer climates who want consistent nighttime fragrance.

Additional Night-Garden All-Stars

These plants enhance nighttime visibility, contribute shelter, or create ecological cues that nocturnal pollinators use for navigation.

Silver Artemisia (Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’, A. ludoviciana, and native options)

Artemisia species have silvery, reflective foliage that is excellent for attracting pollinators. Their aromatic leaves deter herbivores during the day but offer excellent cover for beetles and ground-dwelling nocturnal wildlife.

Anemones (Anemone × hybrida, A. hupehensis, and native varieties)

Often white or pink, these beautiful flowers thrive in dappled light. Their upright stems and pale colors are highly visible in moonlight, helping nocturnal insects navigate the garden.

Angel’s Trumpet (Brugmansia or Datura species)

These dramatic, downward-facing blooms release their strongest perfume after dusk, attracting large moths in particular. While the plants are toxic and aggressive growers, and should be handled with care, their nighttime impact is unparalleled. 

Clematis (Such as Clematis ligusticifolia or C. virginiana)

Clematis vines produce masses of small, white, sweetly scented flowers that stay open through the night. These blooms are highly visible and useful for guiding insects along trellises or fences. 

Grasses for Night Gardens

While grasses don’t provide nectar, they are essential to nocturnal garden ecology. Many moth species depend on grasses as larval host plants, and the upright blades create vertical “perches” for fireflies during courtship displays. Dense clumps also offer shelter for beetles, crickets, and other nighttime foragers.

Warm-Season Prairie Grasses

(Examples include little bluestem, side-oats grama, and switchgrass.)\

These often form airy clumps and produce tall, reflective seedheads. Little bluestem in particular often takes on silvery-blue or copper hues that are luminous at night. Numerous skipper and noctuid moth caterpillars adore these grasses, and they provide shelter for beetles and crickets, too. Their structure stays upright through winter, extending the habitat well beyond the growing season.

Cool-Season Grasses

(Examples include fescues, Junegrass, and wild ryes.)

Cool-season grasses start growing earlier in spring and offer early-season forage for larvae when flowers are scarce. Wild ryes add height and gentle movement even in partial shade, making them useful near trees or along north-facing borders.

Muhly Grasses

(Best known: pink muhly, gulf muhly, and bamboo muhly.)

Muhly grasses form soft, fountain-like clumps with airy, cloudlike plumes. At night, these plumes often shimmer, giving them a distinctive presence. While they are not major host plants, they are excellent shelter species for fireflies, ground beetles, and other nocturnal insects that move through their dense bases. 

Wrapping Up

Many principles for planning a nighttime garden are similar to those for a daytime garden. By choosing appropriate plants, creating habitat and shelter, and curating a dark, sheltered environment, you can attract nocturnal pollinators and support them year-round. With the right foundation in place, your garden will be ready for the final step: designing spaces that are both beautiful and functional for night pollinators, which we’ll explore in Part 3 of this series.

Who Are Nocturnal Pollinators?

Nocturnal pollinators are species that primarily visit and pollinate flowers after dusk, although it’s not uncommon to see some during the day. These include moths, bats, beetles, and certain flies that rely on night-blooming or night-scented plants. Many of them have evolved specialized ways to find flowers in low light, such as a strong sense of smell, echolocation, or heat detection, making them essential yet often overlooked contributors to healthy ecosystems.

• Moths: Some of the most efficient nighttime pollinators. Many can travel long distances, increasing genetic diversity among plants.
• Beetles: Among the earliest pollinators to evolve and still essential today, especially for shrubs and woody plants.
• Bats: Important pollinators in warmer regions, deserts, and tropical climates, where they support large night-blooming plants.
• Flies: Often overlooked but abundant at dusk and early night, visiting flowers that stay partially open after sunset.

And some bees. Together, they perform much of the nighttime pollination that keeps gardens and wild habitats functioning.

Why Nocturnal Pollinators Matter

The work of pollination is never over—even after dark. While some flowers close when the sun goes down (a phenomenon known as floral nyctinasty), many remain accessible throughout the night.

Thousands of plants have also evolved to only flower at night, when conditions are more favorable. This is common in desert environments, and many flowers will last only a day or two before closing. 

Evening primrose, for instance, opens its petals rapidly at dusk and immediately attracts sphinx moths, which hover like hummingbirds as they feed. In desert regions, night-blooming cereus depends on long-tongued bats for pollination; flowers open for a single night, making their nocturnal visitors critical for survival. These relationships illustrate just how tightly connected many plants are to nighttime pollinators.

Many nighttime pollinators also serve as natural pest control, helping to keep populations of troublesome insects and larvae in check.

The Perils They Face

Night pollinators have four main challenges:

• Habitat fragmentation: Urbanisation is creating islands of green space, which limits feeding and habitat availability. 
• Pesticides and Herbicides: These harm pollinators themselves, some of the insects they feed on, and the plants they live in and eat.
• Climate effects: Changing flowering seasons, reduced blooming periods, and the Urban Heat Island Effect are making it more difficult for pollinators to survive.
• Light Pollution: Many species use moonlight to navigate toward food sources, and bright artificial lights disorient them, causing them to feed less and expend more energy.

Many of these issues can be successfully mitigated within your garden; even more so if you are able to work with your neighbors to coordinate efforts.

Creating a Welcoming Garden

Changing your garden isn’t always practical, and many of the plants you already have likely attract night pollinators to some degree. Below are some practical tips to improve your existing garden with little cost and effort.

Light

Soft yellow or orange outdoor lighting is best for illuminating gardens and driveways at night. Any lighting used should also be shielded to direct light downward and be kept low to the ground wherever possible.

It’s important, however, not to sacrifice home safety. Motion-sensing lights can reduce night pollution while still being bright when needed, and lights can be set to timers so they stay on in the early evening, but turn off in the dead of night. Good curtains and blinds also limit light spill from your house.

If you’ve recently replaced outdoor bulbs, you can also purchase—or make—color filter shades to alter the light cast into your yard.

Debris

Leaf litter, piles of twigs, and mulch are great habitat boosters for nocturnal pollinator populations. Focusing these areas around shrubs and dense flower plantings will help them to stay safe during the daytime as well. 

Water

A shallow dish of water is an excellent way to support the night pollinators already visiting your garden. If you have a bird bath, adding stone and pebbles so there are shallow areas will make it more accessible too. An old plant saucer is an excellent water holder if you want to reuse what you already have.

What Your Help Will Do

Understanding how nocturnal pollinators live and move through the night is the first step toward designing a garden that truly supports them. Many species are imperiled, and recreating snippets of habitat for them provides reliable places to feed, reproduce, and benefit the environment.

Pollinators are essential for plant reproduction and for many food chains, supporting birds, mammals, and other wildlife. Environments thrive when there is a healthy interplay between plants and animals, and nocturnal species are an important component of that. 

Wrapping Up

Understanding how nocturnal pollinators live and move through the night is the first step toward supporting them. As you think about your own garden, consider taking a moment one evening this week to step outside after dusk to see what it’s like. Look for dark spots that would be great for nocturnal pollinators, areas that are too bright, or spots for more flowers.

In the next article, we’ll look more closely at night-blooming plants and how to choose varieties suited to your climate and space. This will help you begin shaping a garden that welcomes nighttime visitors year-round.

Designs

Here are some design inspirations to help you create your own hanging baskets.

A Trailing Paradise

You can frame the edge of your hanging basket with trailing plants like lobelia and ivy geranium. Petunias, geraniums, snapdragons, begonias, and fine-textured sedge grasses can all fill out the center for a showy, spilly design that drapes generously over the sides of the basket. This style works especially well when you lean into colour harmony. Try an analogous palette of pinks, purples, and reds for a soft, cohesive look, or go bold with a split‑complementary scheme — red paired with yellow and blue — for a vibrant, high‑contrast display that still feels balanced.

This design works well as a perennial basket, with annuals traded out through the seasons, giving you a good framed canvas to work with. Most small flowers can work with a basket of this type, which favors dense, showy plantings.

Fragrant Herb Basket

Create a compact, aromatic basket by framing the edges with trailing rosemary and a mix of colourful nasturtiums. A small sage plant is a wonderful off-center centerpiece, and looks great when surrounded by calendula (not so suitable for smaller baskets), oregano, lemongrass, and dwarf mint. 

This basket will require regular trimming so it does not become overgrown, but it is wonderfully fragrant and well worth the maintenance.

Shade-Loving Lush Basket

Choose a small fern, and frame it with fuschias, heuchera, and/or hostas, and an ivy of your choice for a subdued, but no less pretty color palette. This works well in damp, shady environments, or if you want a particularly low-maintenance garden basket for the winter and springtime. In some climates, this will weather the summer, although you can supplement the fading plants with begonias for some easy color.

Drought-Tolerant Basket

Ensure you have well-draining, slightly rockier soil for this one. Mix sedums, trailing jade, rock, and ice plants, and larger succulents like portulaca for a soft green and blue color palette. Consider adding a small feature ‘rock’ to add some bold color, like red sandstone. This pot will want fewer, but deeper waterings and is very much a plant-and-forget basket.

Mini Edible Garden

For a delightful mini-garden, consider a mix of fruits and herbs. Day-neutral strawberries stay small but will fruit very consistently. Common herbs such as oregano, sage, lemongrass, and chives will complement this planting, and the chives can be left to flower for some extra color. 

Dwarf varieties of many plants, including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and tomatillos, will also grow well in hanging baskets, with spinach and salad leaves also working well. Nasturtiums are an excellent flower choice, and they, too, are edible.

Plant this basket after your last frost date, or start in a protected place such as a greenhouse to get a headstart.

A Winter Basket

For cold-season color, consider plants like crocus, cyclamen, and primula for plants to grow on the out edges of your basket. They work well as a trio, interspersed together, or look beautiful as a color block.  Winter-flowering heathers (such as Erica carnea) and Gaultheria are excellent centerpieces, with beautiful flowers or berries. 

Consider adding a variegated ivy plant for some trailing interest, and some violas (winter pansies) for extra color. Winter baskets are generally best planted just before your first frost date, so the plants can acclimate before the cold weather sets in.

Common Problems and How to Solve Them

Most problems related to hanging baskets come down to water management. Because baskets are more exposed and have shallower soil than ground-level plantings, they dry out quickly. At the same time, frequent heavy watering can flush nutrients from the soil just as fast.

Watering

To reduce the risk of underwatering, check soil moisture regularly—this may mean once or even twice a day during hot weather. Water slowly and in stages, allowing the basket to absorb moisture gradually rather than letting it run straight through.

To avoid overwatering, continue watering only until a small, steady drip appears from the bottom of the basket, then stop. Constant saturation can deprive roots of oxygen and lead to stress or rot, especially if drainage is restricted.

Because nutrients leach quickly from hanging baskets, soil fertility is the second major concern. Regular feeding with a diluted liquid fertilizer, or an appropriate granular fertilizer, is essential during active growth periods. Always water before and after feeding so nutrients are absorbed safely and roots are not damaged.

Fertilizer: Beyond the Bag. By Erin

Understanding Fertilizer Labels. By Lexi

Plants Wilting Despite Moist Soil

If your basket looks wilted even though the soil is damp, poor drainage or root congestion is often the culprit. Compacted soil or an overly thick liner can prevent oxygen from reaching the roots, causing stress even in wet conditions.

Gently loosen the soil surface if possible, ensure drainage holes are clear, and consider thinning or replanting overcrowded baskets. In persistent cases, replanting with a lighter mix is often the best solution.

Uneven Growth or Bare Patches

Hanging baskets are rarely exposed evenly to light, wind, and rain. Plants on the sunniest or windiest side often grow faster, leaving sparse areas elsewhere.

Rotate your basket every week or two to encourage balanced growth. Regular pinching and light pruning also help maintain an even, full shape.

Pests in Hanging Baskets

While hanging baskets are less prone to pests than ground plantings, aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies can still appear—especially in warm, dry conditions.

Inspect plants regularly, particularly the undersides of leaves. Early intervention with hand removal, a strong spray of water, or an organic soap solution usually prevents infestations from becoming serious.

Baskets Drying Out Too Quickly

If you find yourself watering constantly, the issue may be basket size, soil mix, or liner thickness. Very small baskets and ultra-free-draining mixes require near-constant attention in hot weather.

Upsizing the basket, adding more moisture-retentive material to the mix, or using a thicker liner can dramatically reduce watering frequency.

Aging Baskets

It’s important to check on the overall health of your plants and baskets. Perennial plants may become rootbound over time, and should be graduated to your garden if appropriate, or thinned out if possible. 

Additionally, the basket and liner will need upkeep over time. Wood baskets can be refreshed with a suitable natural wood oil, and liners can be replaced as they decay. Hanging baskets are not permanent plantings, and part of their care is knowing when to refresh or retire them.

Wrapping Up

Hanging baskets are a fun, wonderful way to add vibrancy to your garden. As with most gardening, it will take some experimenting to find the best mix of plants and locations for where you live.  With a little attention and curiosity, hanging baskets become less a decoration and more a living, seasonal pocket within your garden space.

In Part 1, we’ll go through different types of hanging baskets and planters, and how to choose plants for them, setting you up for a colorful, vibrant display, or a mini, delicious garden. In Part 2, we’ll cover some planting designs and things to watch out for.

Types of Baskets

There are four main types of hanging, or garden baskets:

• Wicker/woven
• Wire
• Wood
• Plastic

Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most common — and the easiest for beginners — is a wire or wicker basket with a liner. They offer excellent drainage, good airflow, and work with a wide range of plants. They’re also lightweight enough to clip onto trellises, fences, and brackets without much fuss.

I favor wire baskets for their versatility, repairability, and strength, all while being lightweight and affordable. 

Wicker baskets are also excellent, and once they’ve exceeded their lifespan, they can be composted in the garden or left to decay and provide habitat for invertebrates.

Choosing a Liner

Most baskets will need a liner to hold your soil in place. You can buy ready-made cardboard liners and fibrous materials to fit most basket sizes, but a thrifty option is to collect moss from your lawn or use heavy grass clippings. Avoid buying sphagnum moss, unless it has been sustainably harvested. Coco coir liners are an excellent pre-made option, although whatever you choose, look for something around ½ to 1 inch thick.

A good liner does more than hold soil in place, however — it influences how quickly the basket dries out, how well roots can breathe, and how often you’ll need to water. Thicker liners retain moisture longer, while thinner ones allow faster drainage and airflow. If you garden in a hot, dry climate, choose a liner that holds water well; if your space is humid or shaded, a more breathable option helps prevent soggy soil and root rot.

Planning Watering

Hanging baskets are small and often exposed. They dry out faster than in‑ground beds or large containers, so it’s worth planning how you’ll keep them watered. An olla is an excellent option and can be buried as you plant your basket, slowly releasing moisture to the roots throughout the day.

Watering with a can or hose works just as well, especially if you use a fine rose attachment to avoid disturbing the soil or washing it out of the basket. If your basket hangs high or in a hard‑to‑reach spot, an extendable wand or angled sprayer makes watering far easier and helps you reach the soil surface without straining.

Selecting Your Soil

There’s some debate about the “perfect” mix for hanging baskets, but the basics are well agreed on: choose a lightweight potting mix, not garden soil, as garden soil compacts easily and restricts airflow.

Look for mixes that contain coco coir, lightweight aggregates or pebbles for drainage and aeration, and sustainably harvested moss for extra water retention. You can also create your own using compost, moss, grass clippings, fine gravel, and other lightweight organic materials—aiming for a mix that holds moisture without becoming dense or waterlogged.

In hot, dry climates, prioritize mixes that retain moisture a little longer, while in cooler or more humid conditions, a lighter, faster-draining mix helps prevent soggy roots and rot. In all environments, a thin mulch layer on the surface can keep conditions ideal for longer.

Choosing Plants

Plants that can tolerate drier conditions are best for hanging baskets. Decide if you want seasonal annuals or hardy plants for a longer-lasting display. A ‘thriller, filler and spiller’ mix of plants – some with showy flowers or foliage, some taller or bushier plants to fill out the basket, and some trailing plants to soften the edges – gives an attractive display.

Annuals can often be done in two seasons - summer and winter. For summer baskets, plant in late spring after the risk of frost. For winter baskets, plant in autumn as temperatures cool and deciduous trees begin to drop their leaves. For both plantings, acclimate annuals by hardening them off before planting them in the basket. 

Caring for Your Hanging Baskets

Once your basket is planted, a little regular care will keep it looking full and healthy throughout the season. Hanging baskets dry out faster than ground‑level plantings, lose nutrients more quickly, and are more exposed to wind and sun, so small, consistent habits make a big difference.

Watering

Check moisture daily in warm weather. Water until it runs freely from the bottom, as this ensures the entire root zone is saturated. In very hot climates, baskets may need watering twice a day; in cooler or shaded areas, watering every few days may be enough. If the basket ever fully dries out, submerge it in a bucket or basin for 10–15 minutes to rehydrate the soil evenly.

Feeding

Because nutrients leach out quickly, you should feed your basket regularly. A diluted liquid fertilizer every 1–2 weeks keeps annuals blooming and herbs productive. Slow‑release granule pellets can also be mixed into the soil at planting time to provide early nutrition. This is especially good for shrubs and ferns.

Deadheading and Pruning

Regular pruning and deadheading encourage a succession of flowers and prevent the plants’ energy from going into seed production. Trim long or tired stems to maintain shape and encourage fresh growth. For herbs, regular harvesting doubles as pruning and keeps plants tidy

Managing Wind and Exposure

Wind can stress plants and dry out soil rapidly. If your basket is in a particularly exposed spot, rotate it occasionally so all sides receive even light, or move it to a slightly more sheltered location during extreme weather. Heavy baskets may benefit from reinforced hooks or brackets.

Wrapping Up

Hanging baskets are a delight. They are an easy way to decorate areas of your garden, or to plant in small, sometimes more awkward spaces. Baskets can accommodate a variety of plants, and by choosing plants that fit your climate and maintenance schedule, you can have a fuss-free floating greenspace.

Part 2 explores planting ideas to inspire your designs, along with practical fixes for the common issues that hanging baskets face.

A single radiational freeze—characterized by clear skies, still air, and rapidly dropping nighttime temperatures—can damage buds and new growth, and kill young seedlings outright. These freezes can be sudden, often not predicted until the day before, so it’s important to watch the weather.

In this article, we’ll explore how frost behaves in the Desert Southwest, how to plan your garden with frost (and even snow) in mind, and practical ways to prepare for sudden cold snaps when they occur.

Understanding Southwest Frost Patterns

Frost behavior varies dramatically across the region. Higher elevations such as Santa Fe, Moab, and the Mogollon Rim experience long, predictable frost seasons and freezes. In contrast, lower desert valleys, such as Tucson, Las Vegas, and Las Cruces, see much shorter and more sporadic frost windows.

In large metropolitan areas, especially Phoenix, frost events are becoming increasingly rare. One major contributor is the Urban Heat Island (UHI) effect, where infrastructure stores heat during the day and releases it slowly at night, raising ambient temperatures by several degrees.

At higher elevations, frost may be accompanied by snowfall, while lower desert regions are more likely to experience freezing temperatures without snow or moisture.

Large day-to-night temperature swings are common in arid climates, and when frost does occur in the Desert Southwest, it is usually the result of intense radiational cooling. Dry air and clear skies allow heat to escape rapidly from the sandy soil after sunset. Cold, dense air then sinks and pools in low-lying areas such as washes, valleys, and drainage corridors. This means temperatures can dip below freezing overnight, even when daytime highs are 70F or more!

Microclimates

Frost in the Desert Southwest can feel almost fussy. Even on the coldest nights, damage may be limited to specific pockets of your yard while nearby plants remain untouched. Understanding these microclimates—small areas where temperature, airflow, and exposure differ—is very important.

Cold air behaves like water: it flows downhill and pools in low spots. Areas at the bottom of slopes, near washes, or in enclosed north and eastern courtyards often experience colder temperatures than higher or more open ground. Conversely, spaces near buildings, walls, rocks, or paved surfaces tend to stay warmer, as these structures absorb heat during the day and release it slowly at night.

In some areas, this cold pooling may bring light frost alone, while nearby higher ground or higher elevations may see brief snow events instead.

Wind exposure also matters. Still air allows cold to settle, increasing the risk of frost, while gentle air movement can reduce frost formation by preventing cold air from pooling. 

By observing where frost forms first (or not at all), you can make more informed planting decisions: placing tender plants in warmer microclimates, reserving colder pockets for frost-hardy species, and utilizing structures and landscape features to your advantage to create a healthier, easier-to-manage garden.

If you’re unsure where your cold pockets are, a single frosty morning will usually reveal them.

Frost Protection Techniques

Now that we understand how frost behaves in the Desert Southwest, we can look at practical ways to manage and reduce frost damage. While no method is completely foolproof, combining several of these techniques can improve plant survival during cold snaps.

Thermal Mass

Materials that absorb heat during the day and release it slowly at night create pockets of warmer air around plants. Structures such as your home, garden walls, raised adobe beds, concrete patios or driveways, and large boulders all act as thermal mass.

Planting frost-sensitive species near these features—while ensuring their root systems and growth habits are appropriate for the space—can protect them from most light frosts. South- and west-facing walls are especially effective, as they receive more sunlight during the day and retain heat longer into the night.

Mulch

Young perennials, shrubs, and trees often have shallow, delicate root systems that are especially vulnerable to freezing temperatures. A 2–4 inch layer of mulch, pulled back slightly from the stem or trunk to prevent rot, helps insulate the soil and moderate temperature fluctuations.

This insulation can make a critical difference for newly planted or establishing plants. Mature, desert-adapted, or native plants typically need less protection, as they are already well-suited to local conditions.

Nurse Plants

In natural desert ecosystems, plants rarely grow in isolation. Many species rely on nurse plants for protection from sun, wind, and cold, and these same relationships can be used intentionally in the garden.

Trees such as Palo Verde, Mesquite, and Ironwood create sheltered microclimates beneath their canopies, buffering temperature extremes and reducing frost exposure. Nurse plants are particularly helpful for young cacti, agave, and other tender plants.

Covers

Many common, non-native garden plants—including citrus and bougainvillea—are highly frost sensitive and require protection during hard freezes, typically defined as temperatures between 24–28°F.

Simple coverings can be very effective so long as they are breathable. Old bedsheets, pillowcases, towels, or lightweight blankets placed over plants help prevent frost from forming directly on leaves and trap warmer air near the plant. Covers should ideally extend to the ground and be placed before sunset, so they trap warmth from the day rather than cold air from the night. They should be removed once temperatures rise the following morning.

Watering

Managing irrigation around frost events is important. Turning off irrigation the day before a frost allows the soil surface to dry, reducing the risk of root damage from freezing, waterlogged conditions.

Cacti and other succulents should be watered very sparingly in winter. Allowing them to enter semi-dormancy or full dormancy significantly improves their frost tolerance. Well-hydrated, actively growing succulents are far more vulnerable to cold damage.

Pots

Container plants are especially vulnerable to frost because their roots are exposed on all sides. Moving pots closer to the house or into sheltered areas—such as a garage, porch, or carport—can provide crucial protection while keeping plants near their usual temperature range.

Pot material matters as well. Large ceramic pots retain heat and offer some insulation, acting as thermal mass. Wood planters tend to hold moisture that can freeze, providing less protection, while plastic containers offer minimal insulation overall.

Designing for Frost Resilience

While frost protection tools are useful, the most effective strategy is planning your garden so that protection is needed less often. Timing, placement, and plant selection all play a role in reducing frost damage before it happens.

Late-season fertilizing and pruning should be avoided, as both encourage tender new growth that is especially vulnerable to cold. In the Desert Southwest, warm autumn days can be misleading, but it’s best to let plants naturally slow down as winter approaches. Frost-sensitive plants should also be planted after the main frost window whenever possible, rather than rushed into the ground during fall warm spells.

As previously mentioned, placement can dramatically reduce frost exposure. Planting sensitive species in protected pockets, on south or west-facing elevations, or in pots that can be moved as the weather changes makes for a happy garden.

Plant selection ties everything together. Choosing plants that tolerate light frost, go dormant gracefully, or naturally die back and return in spring reduces the need for intervention. Many native and desert-adapted plants are well suited to these cycles, and even fruit trees and ornamentals often have cold-hardy varieties better suited to Southwest conditions.

Wrapping Up

Many plants need cold weather and/or frost to stay healthy, even if not all are fond of them. By combining smart timing, careful placement, and appropriate plant choices with active frost protection techniques, you can create a garden that weathers cold snaps with minimal stress and recovers quickly when warmer days return.

A Bit More About Caliche

Caliche is common in desert environments from the USA to Australia. As rain falls, it dissolves calcium that’s continually added to the soil. That calcium then combines with carbon dioxide in soil water, forming calcium carbonate deposits. Over time, these deposits build up, forming anything from small nodules to thick, continuous layers.

Caliche is generally light-colored—ranging from white to pale pink to reddish-brown—and can be found in layers anywhere from a few inches to several feet thick.

Not all desert soils contain caliche. Its formation depends on several factors, including rainfall, water infiltration, and soil drainage. The Desert Southwest is particularly prone to caliche, partly because it receives relatively high rainfall for a desert climate.

Why Caliche Is Hard on Plants

Caliche can cause several problems for plants:

• Salt buildup. Because caliche traps water near the surface, evaporation leaves salts behind in the upper soil layers, creating conditions most plants don’t tolerate well.
• Poor drainage. Caliche is dense and non-porous, so water often pools above thick layers and may not reach plant roots at all.
• Limited room to grow. Roots rarely penetrate caliche. Trees, in particular, struggle to grow deep roots, which makes them more vulnerable to monsoon winds.
• Nutrient issues. Caliche’s high pH can interfere with nutrient uptake, commonly leading to iron deficiency.

How to Manage Caliche

Unfortunately, there’s no easy fix for caliche. In most cases, the most effective approach is to remove it—partially or completely.

Start by removing enough caliche to dig a hole large enough to support the mature root system of the plant. If you’re unsure how large that should be, local nurseries or university extension services are often excellent resources.

Ideally, the hole should be dug all the way through the caliche layer so water can drain properly. If that isn’t practical, dig smaller drainage holes—or “chimneys”—through the caliche to give water somewhere to go.

If digging deeper isn’t an option, you can add planting depth by building up the soil level instead. Be sure to grade the surrounding area so water doesn’t pool or run off excessively.

Before planting, it’s important to test drainage. Fill the empty hole with about five inches of water. If at least four inches of water drain within four hours, drainage should be adequate.

Discard any removed caliche, and keep the soil mix consistent throughout the planting hole and any drainage chimneys. When placing chimneys, avoid putting one directly beneath the root ball. Instead, dig two or three around the edges of the hole to encourage healthy water movement while reducing the risk of root rot.

Can Soil Additives Help Reduce Caliche?

Soil additives won’t dissolve existing caliche layers, but they can help slow future buildup and improve growing conditions above and around it, releasing many of the nutrients caliche tends to lock away.

Organic matter is the most useful long-term addition. Compost, leaf mold, and well-rotted manure improve soil structure, increase water infiltration, and encourage microbial activity. Over time, this helps water move more evenly through the soil, reducing the conditions that allow calcium carbonate to accumulate in hard layers. Regular additions are more effective than a single large one.

Acidifying amendments, such as elemental sulfur, can slightly lower soil pH over time. This may improve nutrient availability—especially iron—but changes happen slowly and only affect the amended zone. These products should be used cautiously and ideally based on a soil test. Coffee grounds and sustainably harvested peat moss can also help, though coffee grounds may inhibit seed germination if used heavily.

Mulch plays an often-overlooked role. A thick organic mulch reduces surface evaporation, helping limit salt buildup and slowing the upward movement of minerals that contribute to caliche formation. It also protects soil structure during heavy rains.

What Not to Do

In the frustration of dealing with caliche, it’s tempting to reach for quick fixes. Unfortunately, many commonly suggested remedies either don’t work or can actively harm your soil.

Strong acids, including vinegar or commercial acid solutions, should generally be avoided. While acids can react with calcium carbonate on contact, their effects are extremely localized and short-lived. Used improperly, they can damage beneficial soil organisms, burn plant roots, and destabilize soil structure without meaningfully reducing caliche layers. These methods should only be considered with proper knowledge or professional guidance.

Mechanical breaking without follow-up is another common mistake. Simply punching holes into caliche without improving drainage or soil structure often leads to water pooling and root rot. Any break in the caliche should be paired with a consistent soil mix and a clear path for drainage, so caliche doesn’t easily re-form, and so the soil above remains stable.

Finally, avoid the idea that caliche must be completely eliminated. In most Southwest landscapes, working with caliche—by improving the soil above it, managing water thoughtfully, and planting appropriately—is far more effective than trying to fight it outright.

Conclusion

There are many practical ways to manage caliche in your garden. From raising the soil level above it, to planting native species that tolerate it well, to punching through it thoughtfully to improve drainage, caliche can be worked with rather than against. And if you happen to pull out a few large chunks along the way, they can make surprisingly attractive garden rocks.

The Planter Team’s herbs series is an excellent resource for learning about herbs and how to use them. Exercise caution with herbs that you are unfamiliar with, and take the time to research them and their uses. You can find the series here.

This article focuses on creating a herb garden suited to desert conditions.

Location, Location, Location

Light exposure is perhaps the most important consideration when planting. Summers in the Desert Southwest are hot and dry, with extreme UV exposure. Winters are cooler, and frosts are not uncommon from late December through early March.

In general, eastern exposures are ideal year-round, as they provide sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. Other locations can work if steps are taken to limit summer sun exposure, such as covering plants with 30–40% shade cloth or relocating containers to shadier areas.

Dry, hot winds can also be a problem. Using a wall, fence, deciduous trees, or a hedge can help protect herbs while still allowing them to receive adequate light.

Soil

Desert soils are notoriously sandy, rocky, and low in organic matter. Mediterranean herbs will tolerate these conditions with some amendment, but most herbs—even native desert species—perform far better in well-prepared, enriched soil.

Herbs require excellent drainage; otherwise, they are prone to root rot and decay. A simple and effective mix for raised beds or pots is as follows:

• 1 part coarse sand (omit or reduce if your native soil is already sandy)
• 1 part rock or aggregate (small pebbles or gravel work well)
• 1 part coco coir (for moisture retention and light nutrient content)
• 1 part compost (for nutrients and soil structure)

You may also add worm castings, leaf mold, or other organic materials to improve fertility.

To test drainage, moisten a handful of soil and gently squeeze it. When you open your hand, the soil should crumble easily. If it clumps or holds its shape, add more coarse material.

Native Desert Southwest Herbs

While classic herbs grow well with care in the Desert Southwest, many native herbs thrive in even the harshest desert conditions and can make it easier to grow more common culinary plants.

Because many native herbs grow tall and bushy, they work well as companion plants, providing shade and shelter from the sun and wind.

Yerba Mansa (Anemopsis californica)

A low-growing, waxy-leaved groundcover that prefers damp, almost marshy soil. Best grown in a dedicated low spot or container. Yerba Mansa has various medicinal uses, acts as a natural air freshener, attracts butterflies, and provides habitat for small lizards that help with insect control.

Mormon Tea (Ephedra nevadensis)

Sometimes called desert tea, this shrubby evergreen perennial can be steeped for tea. It does not flower and photosynthesizes through its stems rather than leaves. Plants are either male or female and are wind-pollinated.

Note: Ephedra species have a long history of traditional use, but should be consumed with care and proper knowledge.

Chiltepin (Capsicum annuum var. glabriusculum)

This wild pepper is extremely hot, measuring 50,000–100,000 Scoville units. A hardy native, it forms a small bush up to four feet tall and tolerates pruning well. Birds adore the peppers, and they are excellent fresh, dried, or pickled. Plants may die back in winter but return vigorously in spring.

Epazote (Dysphania ambrosioides) — Mexican Tea

A hardy herb native to Mexico and the Southwest. Epazote enhances soups and stews and can also be steeped for tea. This sun-loving plant has several traditional medicinal uses and works well as an anchor plant.

Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.)

Many native amaranth varieties thrive in the Desert Southwest. Some can be aggressive, so choose carefully. These tall, hardy plants provide edible leaves and seeds, and some varieties can be used as natural dyes.

Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)

Often dismissed as a weed, purslane is highly nutritious. Its leaves are excellent in salads and smoothies. With afternoon shade, it can grow nearly year-round in much of the Desert Southwest.

Seasonal Guide

Herbs in the Desert Southwest fall into cool-season annuals (October–May), warm-season annuals (April–November), and perennials.

Cool-season annuals are best planted in fall to establish roots before summer, though spring planting is possible with extra care. Warm-season annuals should be planted in spring to get established before the heat.

Cool-season perennials like French tarragon, lemon balm, marjoram, mint, oregano, and chamomile prefer fall planting, while heat-loving perennials such as Mexican tarragon, lemon verbena, lemongrass, and society garlic do best in spring.

Desert-adapted species such as chiltepin, amaranth, epazote, purslane, and Mormon tea persist year-round, offering structure, shade, and wind protection. Spring planting is usually ideal because the risk of frost has passed, allowing the plants to establish before the summer heat. Fall planting can work too, especially in milder areas, but some protection may be needed for young plants if frost occurs.

Example Southwest Herb Garden Layout

This layout offers plant suggestions for a 4×8 raised bed, a similar in-ground bed, or a cluster of large containers. Tall native herbs create pockets of shade, shelter, and moderated airflow, making it easier to grow classic kitchen herbs.

Back (North) Side — Tall, Heat-Tolerant Natives

• Amaranth
• Epazote
• Chiltepin

These plants could all provide filtered afternoon shade and break hot winds.

Middle Layer — Classic Culinary Herbs

• Basil (warm-season)
• Oregano (cool-season perennial)
• Mint (kept in a buried pot to prevent spreading)
• Lemon balm (cool-season perennial)

Front (South) Edge — Low Herbs and Groundcovers

• Purslane (edible groundcover, year-round)
• Chives
• Parsley or cilantro (rotated seasonally)

A shallow low spot can be incorporated for Yerba Mansa, allowing occasional flood-style irrigation and creating ideal marshy conditions without pooling.

Choosing Herbs

Select a mix of dependable culinary favorites and hardy native plants. Choose one or two tall natives for structure, then fill in with herbs you regularly cook with. Prioritize plants suited to your sun exposure, and include a few that provide shade or wind protection.

Maintenance at a Glance

Most herbs thrive when harvested little and often. Pinch basil and mint to encourage bushiness; trim oregano and lemon balm every few weeks; and cut back tall natives like amaranth or epazote if they begin to overshadow neighbors. During heat waves, increase shade and watering slightly, especially for potted herbs. A quick weekly tidy prevents overcrowding.

Conclusion

Growing herbs in the Desert Southwest is a rewarding experience. With thoughtful planning, you can maintain a year-round garden that attracts pollinators, creates pockets of shade and interest, and provides a steady stream of fresh herbs. In a climate often seen as hostile to gardening, herbs invite us to work with the desert rather than against it.

Garden Sage

Garden sage (Salvia officinalis) is a favorite for flavoring meats and stuffing, but it’s also a super star herb for wellness. Clinical trials show sage leaves make an effective tea for easing the pain of sore throats.  Mix in a little thyme and lemon juice for even more goodness. Not a fan of sage’s strong flavor?  You can gargle an infusion of sage instead of drinking it. ​Sage is a very hardy perennial, and you can harvest bits all winter long, but if you live in an area with very harsh winters, you may want to cover it or grow it indoors during intense weather.​

Parsley

It’s not uncommon to overindulge around the holidays and experience digestive upset.  Parsley isn’t just decoration on a plate; it’s a great herbal remedy for bloating and indigestion.  Chew a few leaves before a rich meal to keep upset tummies at bay.  Parsley is a biennial plant, so it flowers in its second year.  Parsley is hardy in USDA growing zones 6 and above, but if protected in colder climates, it can be harvested year-round. The leaves, roots, and seeds can be used for herbal purposes. ​

Horseradish

Horseradish is an easy plant to grow. The best way is to get a root division from your garden center, a friend, or a grocery store-bought root. Plant the root in the spring to be ready to harvest in the fall or winter as needed. Horseradish roots can be stored in the fridge for a couple of months, too. For sinus congestion, nothing compares to a hit of horseradish to help clear passages. You can make a prepared horseradish sauce or chop up a small piece and eat it plain if you’re brave.  Fire cider recipes are very popular in traditional herbalism, and many feature horseradish for its immune-supporting properties.

Rosemary​

Rosemary is an evergreen herb. It comes in all sizes, so there’s sure to be one that suits your garden.  Rosemary is a tough plant, but if you’re expecting a particularly rough stretch of weather, like an ice storm, you can cover up your plant. Rosemary thrives in well-draining soil.  Throughout history, rosemary has been used as a circulatory stimulant, so a cup of rosemary infusion  could be helpful when you feel you need to warm up.  It’s full of antioxidants and may help support the immune system.  When you’re feeling under the weather, try adding a few sprigs of fresh or dried rosemary to your chicken soup.  ​

Rose

​Did you know that roses have many herbal uses?  The petals are commonly used in skin care preparations worldwide.  Roses offer a unique floral flavor to herbal teas.  But what can roses offer us in the winter?  The seed head that forms after a flower has bloomed is called a rosehip.  They are full of vitamin C.  During World War II, the British made a syrup from rosehips to combat scurvy because citrus was nearly impossible to obtain.  Rosehip jelly is a popular condiment in many countries. Rosehips can be dried and added to teas. For herbal use, the best varieties to use are the wild rose species like Rosa rugosa and Rosa canina. When making teas or jellies with rosehips be sure to use cheesecloth to strain out the little “hairs” that surround the seeds. They can be very irritating to your throat!

Thyme

If you could only choose one herb to grow for a winter-wellness garden, my pick would be thyme. It’s such a versatile herb!  Thyme has well-known anti-septic and anti-viral properties. Thyme tea has been used for cold symptoms, sore throats, fungal issues, digestive complaints, and to aid in fever reduction. It’s surprising what this little plant can do!   Brew a cup of thyme tea by adding 1 tsp of fresh or dried thyme to 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit for a few minutes and then strain.  Add lemon juice or honey for flavor. There are some really fun varieties of thyme with interesting flavors like orange thyme and lemon thyme. Thyme can be grown in a pot.​

Echinacea

Echinacea has been used for centuries for many conditions, including the common cold.  Studies have been done to see how the immune system reacts to echinacea, and there are conflicting reports. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that herbs shouldn’t be thought of as a cure-all, and we should remember that lifestyle affects our health more than any herb can. Our sleep, stress, and emotional management are also important. That said, the German Commission E is considered an expert panel on the use of plants for health, and echinacea is approved by them for the treatment of upper respiratory infections. The seeds, flowers, and roots are used in herbal preparations, with the most common varieties being E. purpurea and E. angustifolia. Try echinacea tea the next time you feel a tickle in your throat. Prepare a tincture from the roots in the fall for winter use. ​

Planning a winter-wellness garden is one way to keep the gardening fun going all year, and it could be helpful one day!  For tips on growing herbs in the winter, check out this growing guide. You can start planning your garden today withe the Planter App. Always consult with your health care professional before using herbs.

This year we’ve got a gamut of gardening gift ideas from must-read books, to handy gadgets, to eco-friendly gardening goodies!

Great Gardening Reads

Gardener Scott’s Guide to Raised Bed Gardening

Gardener Scott is one of the foremost gardening experts on YouTube, and in his new book Gardener Scott’s Guide To Raised Bed Gardening he introduces gardeners to every aspect of raised bed gardening. Not only does the book have detailed information about the benefits of raised bed gardening and how to start your own raised bed garden, it’s also chock-full of great gardening advice that’s relevant to all gardening styles.

Good Bugs for Your Garden

When gardeners see bugs in the garden sometimes alarm bells go off, but it’s important to also learn about the ‘good guys’- beneficial insects that help keep garden pest populations in check. In Good Bugs For Your Garden Allison Mia Starcher teaches gardeners all about these garden superheroes and how to attract them to your garden.

The Living Soil Handbook

Jesse Frost is a market gardener (small-scale farmer) who runs the No-Till Growers channel and Grower’s Daily podcast on YouTube. Even if your giftee isn’t gardening on the scale of a market gardener, ‘Farmer Jesse’s’ book The Living Soil Handbook is a must-read for any gardener interested in building healthy garden soil and ecological gardening.

Seed Starting and Indoor Growing

Chestnut Potting Tools

These little potting tools might not look like much, but they are the handy-dandiest tools for seed starting and potting up plants! The pointed tool is perfect for dibbling seeding holes, picking up tiny seeds, and for pricking out young seedlings. The flat-ended tool is perfect for arranging and flattening soil in trays or pots. These tools are the perfect stocking-stuffer for the gardener on your list!

Soil Blockers

If the gardener on your list hasn’t given it a go yet, they’re sure to appreciate being introduced to the benefits of soil blocking. Soil blocking is space-efficient, can help reduce plastic use, and encourages healthy seedlings. To get started the 20-cell handheld soil blocker* is great for starting smaller seeds. For potting up the smaller blocks or for starting larger seeds the 4-cell handheld blocker is ideal (better yet pick up both!)

*At the time of writing, the 20-cell handheld soil blocker at Johnny’s seeds is less expensive but backordered. Lee Valley has a similar blocker that is slightly more expensive but appears to be in stock.

Microgreens Grow Kit

If your recipient is expecting a white Christmas this year, give them the gift of growing indoors with these Back to the Roots microgreens kits! Growing delicious, nutritious microgreens can be a bit of a learning curve but these kits make it super-easy for them to get started. Each kit includes a mix of different organic seeds, compostable starting trays and growing medium, as well as access to “Green-Thumb Text Support” for detailed microgreen growing instructions!

For the Garden Ecosystem

Native Wildflower Seeds

If your giftee has some open space in their garden, gifting them native wildflower seeds is sure to inspire them to create a natural garden oasis. Native wildflowers are beautiful, low-maintenance, and key for attracting pollinators and beneficial insects to the garden. For two great native seed sources to try: SFinBloom has stunning native wildflower mixes tailored to a variety of different regions and Roundstone Seeds also has a great selection of beautiful region-appropriate mixes.

Bat House

If the gardener in your life is interested in supporting all types of garden wildlife, gifting them a bat house (yes, a bat house!) is a unique gift idea. Why a bat house for a gardener? Bats are amazing hunters of all kinds of garden pests and in some areas certain bat species can also help pollinate plants!

Gardening Tools and Gear

Grampa’s Weeder

Any gardener would appreciate receiving a tool to make weeding a little bit easier! Grampa’s Weeders are well known for their design, quality, and craftsmanship. Grampa’s Weeders easily remove weeds with long taproots, with no bending over and minimal soil disturbance. Best of all they get the majority of the root out to prevent weed regrowth.

Muck Boots

Being a gardener sometimes means getting out in the garden even on days with less-than-perfect conditions. Muck boots are the perfect all-weather boots for doing just that. They’re flexible and breathable so they can be worn when it’s warm-ish out but they’re also tough and waterproof for damp days (there are also winter boots available). As a thoughtful design detail, the boot outsoles are self-cleaning so your giftee won’t be stuck walking around the garden on mud-clump-moon-boots.

Waterproof Pruning/Wash Gloves

These might not be the cutest gardening gloves around but these waterproof pruning and wash gloves are rugged, tough, and get the job done! They’re 100% waterproof so they’re great for washing down carrots, lettuce, and other garden harvests. Not only that, they’re perfect for working with pokey and irritating plants like zucchini and parsnips, so you can save your giftee from scraping and roughing up their hands and arms.

Rolling Work Seat

All gardeners know that working in the garden can be hard on the body. So what better gift to give a gardener than this rolling garden work seat with a tool tray? With this work seat, spending long hours in the garden will be a breeze. If the gardener on your list has physical or energy limitations this work seat is the perfect gift so they can enjoy gardening in comfort.

GreenStalk Vertical Planter

The GreenStalk Vertical Planter is a versatile self-watering growing system that makes efficient use of vertical space to grow a ton of produce in a small footprint. GreenStalks come in a wide variety of eye-catching colors so they’re both a growing system and garden art! GreenStalks are made from high-quality, UV-resistant plastic and come with a 5-year warranty- so they’re built strong and guaranteed to last! Use code PLANTERAPP to get $10 off your purchase of $75 or more.

Planter App and Merch!

Share the gift of the Planter gardening app with your family and friends this holiday season! Gift them a Planter Premium subscription so they can easily plan and manage their garden anytime, anywhere! We don’t have our own Planter branded gift cards (yet!) but you can gift them a Google Play or Apple App store gift card and point them to the Planter app.

This year we’ve also added brand-new planter merch so your garden giftee can show off their love for gardening and all things Planter!

So what are some common gardening pitfalls, and how can we avoid them?

Not planning your garden

Not planning your garden is a very common mistake for new gardeners. It’s easy to assume that gardening season starts with a fun trip to the garden center to load up on plants and seeds, then coming home and trying to figure out where to squeeze them in and how to grow them. While this laid-back approach can work, it can also cause almost all the other mistakes in this article- like starting plants too early or too late, or not having the right plants in the right areas of your garden (just to name a couple!)

Many gardeners enjoy the process of garden planning, but it does take some time to think through everything in detail. That’s why the Planter app is such a game-changer- you can easily plan your garden from virtually anywhere. Whether you’re on a bus, on a comfy couch, or even out in your garden! Planter also makes it easy to make changes to your garden plans and visualize your garden. With a solid plan your garden will be set up for a successful growing season!

Selecting plants and varieties that don’t suit your climate

There’s a lot to learn when it comes to selecting plants and varieties that are well-adapted for your climate.

As a starting point, before buying annual plants you’ll want to know your frost dates (if applicable) and the number of days in your growing season. Luckily Planter makes this easy- you can enter your location to get your frost dates and the number of days in your growing season will display automatically! Many annual plants need to be started indoors so they have enough time to grow and reach maturity well before your first frost. If you live in a region with a short growing season, you may want to seek out short-season varieties that mature more quickly so you can get the maximum harvest possible in the time you have. You should also check the variety description for information about whether a variety performs best in hotter areas or in areas with more moderate temperatures.

For perennials it’s important to know your hardiness zone to be able to determine whether a plant will survive winters in your area. To be on the safe side you might want to choose plants that are rated a zone or two hardier than your zone, in case of a freak cold snap that could kill them off. If you want to grow perennials that are not hardy in your zone you’ll need to take extra steps- or even overwinter them indoors- to help them survive.

On top considering the length of your growing season and the average temperatures, you might also want to look for varieties that are resistant to the pests and diseases that are most common in your area.

While you’re gaining experience with different varieties in your own garden, talk with other local gardeners to get an idea of which plants and varieties perform best for them.

Starting plants too early or too late

Timing is key when it comes to gardening, but it can be tricky to figure out when is the best time to start seeds indoors and when to plant outdoors. There’s no black-and-white formula for when to start planting- it depends on where you are, what you’re growing, and other factors.

New gardeners often don’t realize how critical it is to get the timing right in the garden, especially in a short growing season. It’s easy to assume that anything available for sale at the garden center still has time to grow. You might pick up a packet of seeds mid-season not realizing they needed to be started weeks or even months ago. Gardeners with some experience know that many plants need to be started indoors (or purchased as transplants and planted early enough in the season), but with that knowledge it’s tempting to start too early. Starting seeds indoors too early can lead to overgrown plants that are difficult to keep healthy until they can be safely planted outside. And almost every gardener is guilty at some point of planting too early outdoors only to have their seeds rot or to have a late frost kill off their plants!

To hone in on the right time to start plants, check out the Growing Calendar in Planter for guidelines on when to start plants in your area, then refer to the seed packets or plant tags for the specific varieties you are growing to get a more exact idea of when they should be planted.

Not matching plant needs with the growing area

Some plants prefer full sun, while others do better in part shade. Some plants need fertile soil while others fare better in poorer soil. Some plants need consistent soil moisture while others prefer drier conditions. And some plants prefer slightly alkaline soil while others prefer more acidic soil. If you don’t select or create a location in your garden that meets each plants’ needs, they are bound to struggle.

You can find all of this important plant care information in Planter, and you can filter plants by their needs so you can plan your garden with each plant’s requirements in mind.

Improperly spacing plants

New gardeners will often ‘wing it’ when planting out their garden, not realizing how important it is to give each plant it’s proper space. Spacing plants too closely can cause water and nutrient deficiencies and can lead to issues with disease and pests. Spacing plants too far apart means that precious garden space is wasted and maintenance and harvesting is less efficient. Having wide open spaces between plants also invites weeds to grow.

Different plants have different spacing requirements, depending on how big they get and their water and nutrient needs. There are several different plant spacing methods that gardeners use, and with experience you can hone in on the spacing that works best for your garden. Plant spacing noted on seed packets is usually row spacing, a traditional plant spacing method. Another popular spacing method is Square Foot Gardening which aims to maximize the number of plants per square foot of garden space by building healthy soil. The plant spacings in Planter follow the Square Foot Gardening method.

Not observing your plants regularly

Growing a garden isn’t just about planting, fertilizing, watering, and waiting for a harvest. One of the most important steps to having a successful garden is to regularly observe each of your plants to make sure they’re staying healthy. Many gardening problems can be corrected if they’re caught early enough, but if you don’t take time to observe your plants regularly issues like lack of water, lack of fertility, or pests and diseases can go unnoticed for so long that they’re beyond fixing. With tender seedlings, young plants, and container plants sometimes even a few hours without water or with too much sun can be life-or-death.

Observing plants regularly is much easier said than done with our busy daily lives. Sometimes having tools like irrigation systems on timers can help, but automation isn’t a full replacement for a gardener’s presence. The best thing to do is to figure out a gardening routine that works with your schedule, and don’t take unnecessary risks with sensitive plants if you might not have time to check on them.

Stressing too much about garden fails

While this is a list of gardening mistakes to avoid, keep in mind that making mistakes is a big part of gardening. Good gardeners learn from their mistakes and improve, and instead of dwelling on them they look for possible solutions. If some of your seedlings died, maybe there’s still an opportunity to buy some transplants. If pests wiped out some of your crops, maybe there’s still time to swap in a different crop. Even if you can’t recover from a mistake in the same season, next season is always a blank slate to build on what you learned.

We all try to avoid mistakes in the garden as much as possible, but more important than avoiding mistakes is persevering when mistakes do happen!

Although our daytime highs still linger in the high 80s, mornings are cool again, and the dew has returned. With shorter days and lower UV, it’s the perfect time to start cold-season crops and work in the garden all day without drying out. Here’s what’s happening in my garden right now.

Crops

I only have two things in the ground at the moment: corn (Zea mays) and my loofah. Both are maturing nicely and should be ready to harvest before the frosts arrive in late December.

I’ve been keeping a close eye on the weather with the arrival of the La Niña pattern this winter. It looks like Arizona will cling to its warmth a little longer than usual during the day, but we’ll still get those good, cold overnight temperatures that encourage strong growth.

My loofah is still in a large pot, so I can move it indoors if frosts come early. It’s survived a steady onslaught of birds and insects this year, so I’m happy to have made it this far. Because it’s a little later for it to grow, hoverflies have been the primary pollinators, now that many of the bees have moved on for the season. Just a fun observation.

My hope is to get at least one gourd to dry into a sponge, plus plenty of seeds to donate to my local library’s seed-sharing program, which is where I got some of my seeds from this year.

Next to go into the ground are carrots and mustard greens, with a few other cool-season vegetables following soon after.

Flowers

My Vinca is doing too well for an annual — I suspect it was mislabeled and is actually the perennial variety. Sadly, though, it hasn’t attracted many pollinators, so I may retire it at the end of the year and replace it with more pollinator-friendly flowers, even though I’ve grown quite fond of it.

On the brighter side, I’ve planted two more Gregg’s Mistflowers. After a tenuous summer, they’ve fully rooted and are putting up fresh growth. We’ve had dozens of butterflies this year, and I hope for even more next year as I expand their food and larval host options. I have two varieties of native penstemon growing, as well as a handful of other native wildflowers, which escaped the hungry Cardinals.

Desert Plants

It’s been a good year for cactus and other desert natives. I’ve started six young Ocotillos — soft and spindly for now, a world apart from their thorny, architectural adult form. They’re finicky to start and have a low germination rate, but finding local seeds has helped.

I’ve also rooted another half dozen paddle cacti, rehabilitated a few dozen agave pups, and started several barrel cacti from seed. My native grasses are on track for transplanting next spring, and I’ve begun growing half a dozen less common native trees — easily the part of the garden I’m most excited about.

Other native plants — sunflowers, jojoba, and desert willow — are maturing well and should overwinter successfully.

Future Plans

This winter will bring a lot of tree work and the creation of a new wildlife habitat. I’ve seen a noticeable increase in bees this year, and I’ll be building bee habitats for solitary bees over the colder months. Pruning, root work, and general maintenance will continue well into spring, but the trees already look much healthier for it.

I’m also planning more plants that feed pollinators and serve as larval hosts — a research project I’m thoroughly enjoying. This year, I saw over half a dozen Arizona Mantises (Stagmomantis limbata) hiding in the native plants, which was wonderful. I hope to attract even more native insect species as the garden continues to fill out.

Wrapping Up

There’s so much that excites me; I could write for hours about the different birds I’ve seen, the other native plants I’ve been planting, the zen garden I’ve made, and more, but this snapshot will have to suffice.

I hope your garden has gone well this year, even if you faced challenges. I had more than a handful with the weather and all manner of other things, but I had fun once again, and I hope to continue that enjoyment over the winter.

So here’s my little attempt to get you just as excited about frost as I am.

1. Frost Helps Fight Pests and Diseases

When the temperature drops, frost kills many tiny pests and fungi that hide in the soil or on plants. Aphids, beetles, and fungal spores often can’t survive the cold. This means fewer bugs and less disease next spring! 

2. Frost Improves the Soil

When moist soil freezes during a frost, the water inside expands. That gentle push breaks apart hard clumps, making the soil looser and easier for roots to grow in. This process (called frost heaving) also helps water drain better. In our market garden, where we try to disturb the soil as little as possible, this natural loosening is a real gift. Nature is kind of doing the digging for us, from the inside.

3. Frost Makes Vegetables Sweeter

If I ever have to choose a last meal, there better be a carrot that’s seen a frost on the plate. Cold weather makes plants like carrots, parsnips, kale, and Brussels sprouts turn some of their starch into sugar, their natural way of surviving the cold. This, lucky for us, makes them taste sweeter. Win–win!

5. Frost Helps Break Down Old Plants

Frost helps crumble old leaves and garden waste, which then turn into rich compost. This adds nutrients back into the soil, ready for new growth in spring.

6. Some Plants Love Frost!

Frost doesn’t mean gardening is over. Many hardy crops, like garlic, onions, spinach, and winter greens, actually like the cold. With the right planning, you can keep growing food even in the chilly months. Here’s some winter garden chores to look into! :)

7. Frost Gives the Garden (and You) a Break

If we’re honest with ourselves, isn’t it kind of magical that a growing season has an end to move toward? That moment when frost arrives and your plants slow down or stop altogether. It’s nature’s gentle reminder that you can do the same. Finally, there’s time to rest, plan, and dream about what’s next. To reflect on all that you’ve learned, harvested, and enjoyed. I wouldn’t want to miss that.

So next time frost visits your garden, don’t see her as the enemy. Wrap yourself in a warm sweater, make a cozy drink, and watch her work her magic. She’s not the end of the season, she’s the start of a new one.

If you’re like us this means you’re often searching for inspirational recipes and cooking methods to use up what you’ve grown. To help with that, we’ve compiled a few of our favorite recipes from this year that helped us use up what we had in abundance!

Mexican-Style Eggs - Contributed by Erin

Breakfast need not be neglected when it comes to using your garden abundance! We had tons of extra jalapeños and tomatoes this season, and while we love making all kinds of salsas, one of our favorite ways to use them is in ‘Mexican-style’ eggs. We eat these several times a week for breakfast and we never tire of them. Not only are they delicious, it’s also rewarding to start the first meal of the day with veggies I grew myself!

The amounts listed are what we generally use for two people but you can easily adjust the quantities to suit the number of people you’re cooking for and your preferences.

- 3-4 large eggs

- 2-3 small jalapeños, minced (adjust based on the size of your jalapenos and how much spice you like- you can also remove the ribs and seeds to make them less spicy or substitute green pepper)

- A small wedge of white onion, diced (roughly 3-4 tablespoons)

- 3-4 roma tomatoes, diced (you can use other types of tomatoes but roma tomatoes are ideal since they are more meaty and less watery- if you use larger tomatoes you may want to reduce the quantity)

- Vegetable oil (or any neutral-tasting fat of your choice for cooking)

- Salt to taste

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs together with a pinch of salt until thoroughly mixed. Pre-heat a frying pan over medium heat and add the oil. Once the oil is hot (but not smoking), add the diced onion and minced jalapeno. Cook for a minute or two until the onions turn translucent then add the tomatoes*** and another pinch of salt. Let the tomatoes cook down for a minute or two then add the well-mixed eggs.

Continue cooking, stirring all the ingredients in the pan to combine them and prevent sticking. At first the mixture will be liquid-y but after about 5 or so minutes of cooking the eggs should be set and most of the excess liquid will have evaporated leaving tasty tomato-flavored eggs. Taste and add more salt if needed.

***My husband tends to add the tomatoes before adding the eggs so the tomatoes break down and the flavor infuses the eggs. I tend to add the tomatoes near the end of cooking so that they stay intact yet still add tomato-y flavor. Try both ways to see if you prefer one over the other!

Serve with warm tortillas or toast, and if you have them refried beans!

Creamy Scandinavian Cucumber Salad - Contributed by Samantha

For the last couple of summers, I’ve had a surplus of cucumbers from my garden. I am not really fond of cucumbers, so I grow them for my husband. But only he can eat so many cucumbers, and I didn’t want all of the cucumbers to go to waste, so I looked for a way I could enjoy them, too.

I have a small collection of Scandinavian cookbooks and came across some cucumber salads. The traditional way is basically a quick-pickled style blend of cucumbers that’s usually eaten with fish. Then I came across some recipes that involved adding sour cream, apparently popular with the American Midwestern Scandinavians. I like anything with sour cream, so I tried it and made that salad all summer. Even now, as summer’s gone, I still make it! Cream makes everything delicious in my opinion. This recipe is a blend of several versions I’ve seen, and you can customize it to your liking.

- 2 Cucumbers, skin on or peeled

- 1/4 Cup of sour cream, more or less as desired

- 1 Tbsp of white vinegar, more or less as desired

- 1 Tsp of lemon juice

- 1 clove of chopped garlic

- 1 Tsp of fresh dill or 1/2 tsp of dried, more or less to taste

- 1 Tsp of salt and more to taste

- Pepper

Slice the two peeled or unpeeled cucumbers fairly thin and place them in a bowl. Sprinkle about 1 Tsp of salt over the cucumbers and let them sit. After about 15 minutes, strain out the water from the bowl. Add the sour cream to the cucumbers, adding more or less as desired. Add the white vinegar, the lemon juice, the chopped garlic, the dill, and salt and pepper as desired. Gently stir the cucumbers to evenly coat. Let it chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour before serving.

Jalapeño Cottage Garden Salad - Contributed by Samm

This summer was our first time growing jalapeños and tomatoes, and grow they did. We had a steady harvest for a few months before the summer heat rang the bell in late August, and the plants wilted away.

We used the jalapeños and tomatoes in a few meals, black bean taquitos, salads, and more. Here’s a recipe for a summer salad that has a good kick to accompany the light flavors.

Ingredients (serves 1):

• ½ cup low-fat cottage cheese
• ½ cup chopped fresh tomatoes
• ¼ cup chopped cucumber
• 1 small jalapeño, finely chopped (remove seeds for less heat)
• 2 tbsp finely chopped red onion
• 1 tsp olive oil
• 1 tsp balsamic vinegar
• Salt and black pepper, to taste

Optional Add-ins:

• Handful of chopped spinach or other greens
• Chopped bell peppers
• A pinch of crushed red pepper for extra spice

Instructions:

1. In a medium bowl, combine cottage cheese, tomatoes, cucumber, jalapeño, and red onion.
2. Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
3. Season with salt and black pepper, then toss gently to mix.
4. Add any optional veggies or crushed red pepper if desired.
5. Serve immediately or refrigerate for later. Keeps for 2-3 days.

This salad is perfect to enjoy in the bold summer heat, a cool fall evening, or as an appetizer for a winter feast. It’s delicious.

Deep Dish Pizza - Contributed by Peter

I love a good Chicago-style deep dish pizza, but after moving to Connecticut I haven’t found any place around that offers it. So I make my own! The sauce uses a lot of fresh tomatoes, great for when the harvest comes in. I also make extra batches of sauce and freeze them for later. For fresh tomatoes, you can simply put them in a food processor if you don’t mind the skins/seeds. If you want to avoid skins and seeds in your sauce, a saucer attachment for your mixer is a great way to speed up tomato processing.

Makes enough for a 11-12” pizza, ~8 servings

Ingredients:

Dough:

• 3 ½ tsp yeast
• 2 ¼ tsp sugar
• 1 ⅔ cup warm water
• 4 ½ cup all purpose flour
• ¾ cup olive oil
• 2 ¼ tsp salt

Sauce:

• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• 1 small onion, grated or minced
• 1 Tbsp dried oregano
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 can (28 oz) crushed tomatoes, strain beforehand OR equivalent fresh

Toppings:

• 15-16 oz shredded mozzarella cheese
• 6 oz ground Italian sausage
• 3 Tablespoons parmesan cheese

Directions:

Dough:

1. Dissolve yeast and sugar in warm (110℉ to 115℉, use a thermometer) water in a bowl. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes until the yeast softens and begins to form a creamy foam.
2. Mix yeast mixture, flour, oil, and salt. Dough should hold together but will be sticky.
3. Transfer dough to a buttered bowl. Cover bowl with a towel and allow dough to rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 6 hours.

The Rest:

1. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and add the grated onion, minced garlic, and oregano. Once the onion has slightly browned (2 minutes or so) add the tomato sauce (after straining). Turn the heat down to low-medium and allow to simmer until the sauce has thickened, about 30 minutes. It has to be thick. Remove from heat and set aside until ready to be used.
2. Preheat oven to 425°F.
3. Roll out the dough and place it in a 12” pizza or cake pan, trying to get the dough to stick to the sides.  However, it never sticks to the sides for me so I have a trick: Transfer the pizza dough to the 12” deep dish pizza pan. Then, press a non-stick or greased 11” pan into the dough to squish the pizza dough up the sides, between the two pans. Keep the smaller pan in place for the next step.
4. Cook the dough by itself for 8 minutes.
5. Remove the dough. The crust should have puffed up a lot!
6. Add cheese.
7. Add the ground Italian sausage and any other toppings. Spread it raw (put the sausage between cling-wrap and roll it with a rolling pin).
8. Add the sauce.
9. Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese on top.
10. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and the filling is set. To prevent the edges from burning, cover with foil after 10 minutes of baking.

If you’ve been scratching your head trying to figure out what to do with your harvest, we hope you’ll give one of these ideas a try! If you do happen to try one of these recipes, or if you have an awesome garden-inspired recipe of your own to share, we’d love to see it on Facebook or Instagram!

Cheers and happy gardening…and cooking! - The Planter Team

When to Harvest Roots

The best time to harvest roots is in the fall when your plant has stopped producing flowers and leaves and has started dying back.  All of the plant’s energy is being sent down to the roots to store up before the following spring, and this is when roots are at their best for herbal use. Dandelion roots, for example, have the highest amounts of inulin, a type of prebiotic dietary fiber,  in the fall.  If you can harvest your roots before the first significant frosts, the better. In the northern hemisphere, late September through early November are good times to get digging.  It’s also a good idea to harvest when you have the time to clean and process the roots, because roots start to get tough when they dry out. 

With certain plants, it’s best to wait to harvest the roots until their second or third year of growth. Some of these herbs are: elecampane, marshmallow root, and parsley.  But you also don’t want to wait too long: some roots can grow quite large and get tough and “woody”, making them hard to chop. Tough, old, woody roots are also less desirable because they may lack potency. Try to harvest roots before they get to their  4th growing season. If you let them go too long, divide them in half at the roots and replant, this can reinvigorate them.

Harvesting

The number one rule when harvesting a plant is to ensure you know what you are harvesting. Never harvest a plant if you aren’t entirely sure about its identity. If you planted it in your garden, then you most likely know what you have. Be cautious when wildcrafting. It’s safe to say most people know what a dandelion looks like. Still, there are “false dandelions,” so studying plant identification books is wise. 

After you’ve decided on the perfect day to harvest, grab a shovel or a garden fork and carefully dig around the plant, keeping in mind where the roots might be so as not to cut them (some roots grow outwards, so try not to chop them up), going around in a circle gently lifting the plant a little each time you move. Go around the plant until you can lift the root crown.  Some roots can be hard to dig up, and a special tool called a Hori Hori knife can be very handy. Make sure you don’t have roots from other plants intertwined into what you want to harvest.

Decide if you are going to harvest all of the roots or just some. If you want to replant, harvest ½ - ¾ of the root system and then replant at the depth you removed it from, removing any old stems or leaves so it can focus on rebuilding at the roots. 

Cleaning

If you harvest roots full of mud, spraying them off with a garden hose before bringing them inside can be helpful. Clean roots gently with water and a vegetable brush, but do not scrub too hard. 

Chopping

Chop the roots into pieces. It’s best to chop roots right away after harvest because some roots start to get tough, making them harder to cut. If you plan on using fresh roots for herbal products, then you should use them straight away. It’s best to use fresh roots when making some tinctures. Valerian roots, for example, are preferred by some herbalists to be tinctured fresh. 

Drying

If you plan on drying your roots, you need to do so after chopping them. Chopping them before drying ensures they will dry evenly. You can dry your herbs in a dehydrator, oven, or other method like in a paper bag. With roots, I always prefer to use a dehydrator so I know they are properly dried for storage. It can take a long time to thoroughly dry roots without a dehydrator.

Storing

After the roots have been thoroughly dried, store them in a glass container with a lid, like a mason jar or an airtight seal. Store them somewhere at room temperature and out of direct light. A dark pantry works well. Roots can be stored for 2-3 years. Some can be potent longer than that, but that is just a general rule. 

What to Make With Herbal Roots

With herbal roots, you can make: 

• Tinctures
• Infused oils
• Tea
• Vinegars
• Infused honey
• Syrups
• Condiments 
• Herbal “candy”

Ideas to Try

• Are you trying to give up caffeine and coffee but still want a hot drink with a rich flavor? Try making a tea out of dried dandelion roots. It won’t give you that caffeine rush but it is filled with prebiotic fiber your gut’s microbiome loves!
• To make infused honey, warm up some honey in a pot (do not overheat and burn the honey) or place a towel in a slow cooker and place a jar of honey on top of the towel. Add some dried herbs to the honey and let the mix infuse for several hours. Make sure not to leave unattended.  Strain the honey into a jar. Infused honeys are good for toast, mixed into teas, or eaten straight! Some of the most interesting roots to use for honey are elecampane, angelica, and ginger root (technically speaking, we use ginger rhizome, but we call it root). Heating up the honey does mean you risk losing some beneficial properties from the honey, so you can simply add dried herbs to a jar of honey and let it infuse for a couple of weeks. There are also ways to infuse honey with fresh herbs but you must make sure the water evaporates, otherwise you risk fermentation. You can find instructions on how to make infused honey with fresh herbs, on the internet. 
• Long ago, it’s said that the first marshmallows were created from the marshmallow plant’s roots. You can make an herbal syrup with the roots, which can then be made into the sweet treat we know today. There are vegan recipes and some made with gelatin. Search around for your favorite recipe. 
• Use horseradish root to make your own classic condiment or as an addition to an herbal fire cider recipe.

Sometimes, at the end of a long growing season, the last thing I want to do is get dirty and harvest the roots of my herbs, especially when it’s getting colder. But every time I do, I’m so happy I did it. Harvesting roots isn’t always glamorous work, but it’s definitely rewarding.  Always consult with your healthcare professional before using herbs.

Harvest Time Table

Ashwagandha -In its first fall before frost.

Dandelion- The fall of its first year. 

Echinacea- The fall of its third year.

Elecampane- The fall of its second year.

Horseradish- The fall of its first year, ideally after the first frost.

Marshmallow- The fall of its second or third year.

Valerian- The fall of its second year.

In past gardening seasons, I’ve used season extension techniques to keep my plants alive and productive as long as possible. In my home garden I’ve managed to keep tomatoes and peppers going well into November and December, just by covering them carefully at night and on cold days. And at the market garden where I used to work, we had hoop houses and a heated greenhouse to keep production going as long as possible. I enjoyed delaying the inevitable and harvesting from still-healthy plants as the warm days became fewer and farther between.

This year being my first year with my own market garden, the end of the season went a bit differently. The last Farmers’ Market was on October 11th; since we are a new operation and the market was our primary sales outlet, this ended most of our sales for the year. What is still growing in the field is now mainly for us, our family, friends, and neighbours. We haven’t yet invested in low tunnels, hoop houses, or greenhouses so our plentiful end of season bounty is available on a limited-time basis only. At the market garden scale, unlike my past home gardens, it doesn’t really make sense to try to save plants without the proper infrastructure. Anticipating incoming frosts, we’ve focused our efforts on harvesting, eating, processing, and storing copious amounts of tomatoes, peppers, and squash. We’ve left the cool-season crops to be harvested as-needed, and we continue to enjoy an all-you-can-eat buffet of lettuce, arugula, various Asian greens, spinach, swiss chard, parsley, carrots, turnips, and radishes.

Aside from harvesting as much as possible, I’m starting to get antsy to get the garden cleaned up and put to bed. Normally I’m somewhat “middle-of-the-road” when it comes to my fall garden cleanup philosophy. I like to leave some plant debris behind (from disease-free plants) to add nutrients back to the soil, to help prevent erosion, and to provide spots for beneficial insects to overwinter. Some larger plants I might cut off at the base and remove, leaving only the roots behind to decompose, while smaller and more cold-hardy plants might be left as-is until spring. However in my new garden this year I experienced more pest and disease pressure than I have in the past, so I’m trying to clear away plant debris (…and weeds…) more thoroughly in hopes of freezing out some of the pests over winter.

To that end, I started pulling up and cutting off plants early this year- before they were even showing signs of cold damage- knowing that there was a lot of work to do and mother nature could throw me a curveball (a snowball?) sooner than expected. I have to admit this was a bit of a tough task, since the plants still looked healthy and the bees were still enjoying the flowers. I’m heartened though to have had such a productive season, and I know there will be a great sense of satisfaction to get the field cleaned up before the snow flies. Plus I still have several beds of radishes and arugula in flower that I’m leaving until the last possible moment so the bees can still enjoy them…

The process of putting the garden to bed in the fall tends to put me in a reflective mood. I’m thankful for the year, the harvests, and for all the things that went well. This year I was proud of getting started with my dream of having my own market garden- especially since we just moved and had many unknowns to deal with. I was also proud of successfully growing some new crops for the first time such as salsify, and I also had great success growing microgreens which I’d found in the past to be a bit of a learning curve. 

While the main focus at this time of year is harvesting and winding down the garden, there is one fall planting task I always look forward to: planting garlic for next year. It’s refreshing to be able to plant something new while most other crops are being cleared out, and it gets me excited and looking ahead to the upcoming season. I’m already thinking about which crops to focus on, how to dial in my garden plan, and how to expand our capacity. While I am looking forward to getting my plan for next season together, and partaking in more indoor garden-related activities like saving seeds and growing microgreens, for now I’m still savoring every sunny day I get to enjoy out in the garden. ☀️

Overwintering Rhubarb

In temperate climates, rhubarb generally survives the winter on its own. In fact, the plant needs around 500 hours (around 7 weeks) at 40°F (4 °C) or below to trigger healthy new growth in spring. 

In the fall, allow the remaining leaves to die back naturally before cutting the stems near the base of the plant. The leaves can be added to your compost pile, but should not be left to break down around the plant.

While rhubarb is hardy down to -30°F (-34°C), extra protection can help in regions with particularly long or harsh winters, such as USDA Zone 4 or mountainous areas. Applying a thick layer of mulch after the leaves have been removed provides insulation against freezing temperatures. During my time in Idaho, I found that covering rhubarb with a pot throughout the winter helped temper the colder nights and protected tender shoots from late frosts, snow, and ground upheaval.

In warm desert climates, overwintering is more challenging. Unless winter temperatures regularly drop below 40°F, rhubarb crowns may struggle to survive. In the U.S., this includes the high desert regions of California and much of Arizona. Planting rhubarb in pots that can be moved to cooler locations, such as a garage or shed, can help the plant survive.

General Plant Care

Young rhubarb plants—those less than two years old—require careful watering during dry spells to establish deep, vigorous roots. Once established, care mainly involves removing flower stems to encourage more leaf growth, clearing away faded leaves, and dividing overcrowded clumps.

Rhubarb should be watered when the soil around it becomes dry or the leaves show signs of stress. These hardy plants like to be kept damp, but not wet. If the summer is particularly hot and dry, growth will slow down, and the plant may enter a dormant state for the rest of the season.

Spring mulching is highly beneficial. You should apply a 2½-inch deep ring of organic mulch around each plant each year, extending roughly a foot wide. This helps retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain a stable, fertile soil environment.

Rhubarb occasionally produces flowering stems in spring or summer. Removing them promptly prevents the plant from weakening and reduces the chance of bolting. Flowering is more likely after wet summers, excessive nitrogen feeding, or in older plants that haven’t been divided for several years.

Dividing Mature Plants

Dividing rhubarb is a satisfying way to rejuvenate plants and provide extra crowns to share. This is usually done after five years, though overcrowded or slow-growing plants may benefit from earlier division.

The best time to divide rhubarb is when the plant is dormant, typically between mid-autumn and early spring. Dig up the entire crown carefully, then split it into sections using a sharp knife or hori-hori.

Each division should include plenty of roots, a portion of the rhizome, and at least one bud. Outer sections are generally healthier than older inner sections, while weak or diseased pieces should be discarded. Replant the divisions the same day if possible, spacing them about three feet apart.

Harvesting Rhubarb

Rhubarb should not be harvested in its first year so that it can establish a strong root system. Light harvesting can be done in the second year, but full production really begins in the third year. From this point, up to one-third of the stalks can be removed at a time, typically from April or May, for around 10-14 weeks. Always leave enough leaves on the plant so it can photosynthesize and maintain healthy growth.

Select stems that are about a foot long with freshly unfurled leaves. To harvest, grip the base with your thumb on the skyward side and fingers beneath, then gently pull the stalk from the ground. Avoid cutting or snapping stems, which can damage the crown or introduce rot.

Harvested rhubarb keeps in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, or it can be frozen after being chopped into small pieces. Remember, only the stalks are edible—leaves contain oxalic acid and should be composted or discarded safely.

Forcing Rhubarb

Rhubarb stems naturally grow towards the light, a bit like sunflowers. Being a very vigorous plant, this adaptation can be maximized by growing the rhubarb in near darkness.

To force rhubarb, you will need a crown that has been in your garden for at least 1-2 years, and is healthy and well-established. As the heavy winter frosts begin to ease, cover the crown to exclude light, which encourages tender, sweet stems.

Forced rhubarb is generally sweeter and juicier than normal rhubarb.

There are three main steps:

1. Mulch the rhubarb with fresh, rich mulch. Form a generous donut right around the crown, making sure the crown itself is only lightly covered. 
2. To cover the crown to exclude light, you will need a large, opaque object. A wide 5-10 gallon-sized pot is excellent, or a kitchen dustbin. If it has drainage holes in the pot already, tape them over using heavy-duty waterproof tape. You can also buy dedicated rhubarb cloches.
3. Cover the mulched rhubarb with the bin, and water the plant heavily once a week. The warmth from the decomposing mulch will feed and wake the plant from dormancy. 

After 5–8 weeks, you should have fresh, tender stems about 1 ft long. Harvest gently, then uncover the plant once the risk of frost has passed. Lightly mulch again and allow it to rest for the remainder of the year—don’t harvest forced plants again until the next season.

Wrapping Up

Planting your rhubarb at the right time, caring for it through the seasons, and then dividing it when it gets mature will give you plants that can last over 15 years. One final tip from us is to stagger your plantings. Having plants of different ages means you will always have rhubarb ready to harvest, while some are resting after being divided or forced, or are freshly planted.

Happy growing, and happy eating!

More so than in temperate climates, it’s vital to watch the weather. Extreme heat spells or cold snaps require forethought to protect your plants, and site selection is even more important. These tips cover key points for hot and cold climates, and how you can grow rhubarb successfully.

Rhubarb in Hot, Arid Climates

Rhubarb can grow in hot, dry climates such as Arizona, the high deserts of California, and parts of inland Australia, but it requires some adjustments to survive the intense summer heat while still receiving enough winter chill.

1. Timing and Seasonality Plant crowns in late fall (October–November) to take advantage of cooler temperatures and help roots establish. Light harvesting can begin in late winter to early spring, before the intense summer heat arrives. Once temperatures climb above about 85°F (29°C), rhubarb will naturally go dormant. Forcing it to grow during midsummer can stress the plant and reduce its lifespan.

2. Light and Shade Management Rhubarb thrives with morning sun and afternoon shade. In extremely hot areas, protect leaves from sun scorch using shade cloth, pergolas, or by planting near structures that block the afternoon sun. In containers, plants can be moved to shaded patios or under trees during peak heat; putting pots on wheels makes this easier.

3. Mulching and Soil Care Apply 3–4 inches of organic mulch around the crown to insulate roots, retain moisture, and reduce soil temperature. Mulch can lower soil temperature by around 10°F, keeping roots cooler in scorching summer heat.

4. Container Planting Options Deep pots (at least 2 ft wide by 2 ft deep) are highly effective. Containers allow you to relocate plants for shade, and the soil mix can be tailored for drainage and fertility. Container soil will need yearly replenishment with compost as hotter temperatures often lead to quicker nutrient leaching.

5. Summer Dormancy and Winter Chill During summer dormancy, rhubarb leaves usually wilt or die back entirely. Water lightly to keep the soil damp but not wet. In regions where winters remain warm (e.g., parts of inland Australia), potted rhubarb can be moved to a cool space around 40°F / 4–10°C for 6–8 weeks to simulate dormancy and trigger spring growth.

6. Watering Considerations Water deeply and regularly to encourage robust root growth, making sure to water below the leaves so it soaks into the soil. The soil should be damp but not soggy. Tools like Ollas can provide steady moisture and cool soil conditions, though they must be removed or protected during frost.

7. Wind Care Hot, desert winds can desiccate leaves quickly. If you live in a flatter, more open area, watch the winds and provide protection against the prevailing winds. Shade cloth fixed vertically is an excellent wind screen.

With careful management of light, mulch, water, and timing, rhubarb can thrive in hot, arid climates. Because rhubarb needs winter chill to survive as a perennial, plants in these regions may last 2–3 years rather than the usual 5+, which is normal. Using large pots gives flexibility to move plants to cooler spots during winter or summer.

Rhubarb in Colder Climates

In colder regions, rhubarb is extremely hardy, but extra protection ensures crowns survive harsh winters and produce strong harvests.

1. Mulching and Winter Cover After leaves die back in fall, apply a thick 4–6 inch layer of mulch around the crown to insulate against freezing temperatures. Straw, leaf litter, or compost works well. In very harsh winters (USDA Zone 4 or mountainous areas), cover crowns with burlap, a cloche, or even a large pot to protect young shoots from late frosts and snow. Mulch also helps prevent frost heaving, where crowns lift from the soil during freeze-thaw cycles.

2. Site Selection Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil. Cold air can settle in low spots, so slightly elevated planting sites help protect crowns from frost. Small mounds are ideal in frost-prone areas.

3. Forcing Rhubarb in Cold Climates Forcing is ideal for early spring harvests. Use the same mulch-and-cover method as in temperate climates, ensuring crowns have been established for at least 1–2 years. Darkness encourages tender, sweet stems for early desserts (more on harvesting and forcing in Part 3).

4. Watering Water sparingly during winter dormancy. Excess moisture combined with freezing temperatures can lead to crown rot. Resume watering in spring as soil thaws and growth begins, or observe soil moisture—sometimes no extra water is needed if rainfall is sufficient.

5. Longevity With proper winter protection, rhubarb crowns can live for 10–15 years or more. Dividing overcrowded crowns in late winter or early spring rejuvenates plants and maintains productivity.

Growing rhubarb in more extreme climates requires planning, but with attention to temperature, predicted rainfall, and seasonal adjustments, you can enjoy delicious stems year after year. Even if harvests are smaller or plants behave more like annuals in hot regions, foresight ensures your rhubarb thrives for seasons to come.

In Part 3, we’ll go over general care tips for all climates, harvesting advice, and additional ways to grow rhubarb.

In the first part of this series, we’ll discuss popular varieties and go over how best to plant rhubarb.

Popular Varieties

There are dozens of rhubarb cultivars, each created for different reasons. Some grow more quickly, others are sweeter, and some are suited to more challenging environments. If you live in a temperate environment, such as the UK, you will find that most, if not all, varieties will grow with good success. 

Choosing varieties more suited to your growing needs and conditions will give you healthier plants that produce more rhubarb stalks for you each year.

Varieties for Warm Climates

• MacDonald Rhubarb — Developed in the 1920s, this variety is less tart than most and shows excellent resistance to heat, wilt, and root rot. Performs best up to Zone 8 but can continue beyond that with attentive care.
• Canada Red Rhubarb — A compact variety with shorter, tender stems and a naturally sweet flavor. Prefers cooler conditions up to Zone 8 but can be grown as an annual in warmer zones with partial shade and consistent watering.
• Crimson Red (Cherry Red) — Known for its striking deep red stalks and good heat tolerance. While not ideal for desert zones, it performs well in areas with warm summers and mild winters.

Varieties for Temperate Climates

• Timperley Early — One of the first varieties ready for harvest, often by early spring. Perfect for gardeners eager to enjoy rhubarb pies and crumbles while other crops are still waking up.
• Sutton — With vivid red stalks and a well-balanced tartness, Sutton is both ornamental and productive. Performs best in steady, temperate conditions without extreme heat or cold, and is a good option for smaller gardens.
• Champagne — A classic English variety with slender, pinkish stems and a delicate flavor. Particularly good for forcing (growing in darkness to produce early, tender stalks) and favored by traditional kitchen gardeners.

Varieties for Cold Climates

• German Wine — A hardy selection with strong, thick stalks that hold up well in late frosts. Has a deep, rosy hue and a pleasant balance of sweetness and acidity, making it a favorite for preserves and baking.
• Valentine — Noted for its vivid crimson color and resilience, Valentine tolerates very cold winters and returns reliably each year. Less stringy than some other varieties, making it excellent for cooking.

All-Around Variety

• Victoria — A dependable heirloom and one of the oldest named varieties, Victoria produces long, greenish-red stalks with a mild flavor. Forgiving of different soils and weather patterns, it tolerates moderate cold and, with some extra shade, can survive hot summers. It’s also less prone to bolting than most other varieties.

How to Plant Rhubarb

Rhubarb can be planted as dormant crowns (typically sold November–March) or as potted plants later in the spring. Dormant crowns are ideal for establishing a strong root system, while potted plants give a head start on growth.

Fall is the ideal time to plan your rhubarb garden, giving you time to prepare the planting site and source quality crowns. This allows you to prepare the planting site and find the best places to get your rhubarb crowns from. Many garden centers will sell them; however, you can always ask a neighbor if they have any crowns ready to divide.

Planting Steps:

1. Prepare the Soil: Choose a location with rich, fertile soil that receives plenty of sun. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12–18 inches and amend with compost or well-rotted material such as leaf mold.
2. Dig the Hole: Make a hole slightly wider than the root system (about 1.5 times the crown’s width) and deep enough so the base of the buds sits just above the soil surface.
3. Planting: Place the crown or potted plant in the hole, spreading roots gently without bending or crowding them. For crowns, ensure the buds point upward. Backfill the hole with soil and compost mix, firming gently.
4. Mulching: Apply a light donut-shaped mulch ring around the crown (1 inch deep, up to 1 ft wide) to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and stabilize soil temperature. The mulch should be pulled about an inch back from the crown to prevent rot.
5. Watering: Water deeply immediately after planting to help roots settle. For the first few weeks, maintain consistent moisture without waterlogging the soil.
6. Spacing: Space plants 75–90 cm (30–35 in) apart to allow room for the plants to mature. Overcrowding can reduce airflow, increasing disease risk. Varieties vary in size, so check how large your plants will get before you plant; you may have to increase the spacing.
7. Container Planting: If using pots, choose a container at least 2 ft wide and 2 ft deep per plant. This allows for controlled soil conditions, easier relocation to shade, and better heat management in hot climates.

In the next section, we’ll cover how to select the perfect site for rhubarb.

Choosing a Planting Location

Rhubarb thrives in sunny locations, although it will tolerate some shade quite well. The soil should be rich and fertile and hold water well without becoming waterlogged. If your soil is clay-heavy or has poor drainage, amend it with mulch and compost to improve porosity and create consistent air pockets.

Rhubarb stems are easily damaged by late frosts, unless you choose a late-cropping variety that emerges later into the spring. Sites that get the first sun of the day are ideal, as morning sun helps burn off frost and overly heavy dew quickly. Slightly elevated spots are also preferable, since cold air can settle in low areas and increase the risk of frost damage. Planting rhubarb in small mounds can help.

Very cold or very hot environments will have slightly different planting needs, which we will cover in part 2.

In just one handful of healthy soil, there are enough fungal filaments to wrap around the Earth. Twice! 

(Filaments are the ultra-fine strands that make up the body of a fungus. You can think of them as the fungus’s roots)

These microscopic globetrotters form one of the oldest and most successful partnerships in nature. For nearly 450 million years, fungi have been building vast underground networks that connect plant roots, trade nutrients, and help entire ecosystems thrive.

This partnership is called mycorrhiza, from the Greek mykes (fungus) and rhiza (root). The name literally means fungus root, and that’s exactly what it is, a living alliance between a plant and a fungus.

The fungus extends the plant’s reach deep into the soil, helping it absorb nutrients and water. In return, the plant pays for these services with sugars produced through photosynthesis. It’s a perfectly balanced exchange, nature’s own nutrient economy.

Pronounced my-ko-RYE-zuh, mycorrhizae (the plural form) might be invisible, but their impact is enormous. They make plants stronger, soils healthier, and life underground beautifully interconnected.

Why They Matter in Your Garden

Mycorrhizal fungi aren’t just for wild forests. your garden plants love them too! Once they settle in, they quietly make your soil healthier and your plants stronger. Here’s how they help:

How to get them growing

If the idea of foraging for wild fungi feels a bit much, there are easy ways to welcome mycorrhizae into your garden:

1. Use healthy, living soil. Avoid soil that’s been sterilized or filled with strong chemicals; fungi can’t live in that.
2. Add a little starter. Garden shops sell mycorrhizal “inoculant”, a powder or granule full of spores. Sprinkle it on plant roots or mix it into the soil when planting.
3. Skip fungicides and chemical fertilizers. They don’t just kill bad fungi, they harm the good ones too.
4. Feed your soil naturally. Add compost, mulch, or leaves to keep the fungi well fed.
5. Be patient. Once they’re in, the fungi will spread through your garden on their own. You won’t have to do a thing.

And here’s where it gets really cool:

Some plants can’t even survive without them. Orchids, for example, rely completely on mycorrhizal fungi to germinate, their seeds are so tiny they can’t sprout without fungal help.

Mycorrhizal networks are also climate allies! They store over 13 gigatons of carbon globally, which is roughly the equivalent to about 36% of yearly fossil fuel emissions. So, every time we protect living soil, we help capture CO₂ and keep it out of the atmosphere.

And if that’s not impressive enough, these fungi even help plants “talk” to each other. Through their underground networks, plants can send chemical messages to neighbors, warning them of insect attacks or sharing distress signals. It’s plant teamwork at its finest. We could learn a lot from them, that’s for sure.

Want to Go One Step Further?

If you’d like to try something a little more visible (and delicious), you can also grow edible mushrooms at home, alongside your garden crops! 

These mushrooms don’t team up with plant roots the way mycorrhizal fungi do, but they do show how fungi work their magic: breaking down old wood and turning it into healthy, living soil.

Inoculated logs are a great place to start. You can order spawn plugs for shiitake, oyster, or lion’s mane mushrooms and insert them into freshly cut hardwood. Keep the logs moist and shaded, and within a few months to a year, you’ll see your first fruiting bodies appear. If you’d like to learn more, check-out ‘‘how to grow mushrooms outside in your garden’’ by North Spore!

A living legacy 

For me, mycorrhizal fungi are a reminder that growth never happens alone. Every leaf, every bloom, every breath of green is supported by countless living connections beneath our feet.

So next time you kneel to plant a seed or dig your hands into the earth, pause for a moment. Feel the quiet hum of life below, the same pulse that has shaped our planet for 450 million years and still sustains it today.

And let’s carry that wisdom above ground too. Be kind, be generous, and remember; we’re all connected, one way or another.

Want to learn more about this incredible symbiotic relationship? I’d recommended watching this vid!

Happy Gardening,

Sarah-Manon & Planter-team

But careful: not all pruning belongs in autumn. Heavy cutting is best saved for late winter, when trees are fully dormant and heal faster.

Light Autumn Pruning for Fruit Trees

• Dead or diseased wood → prevents fungi and pests from spreading. Always cut back to healthy wood. 
• Branches that cross or rub → friction wounds invite infections. Choose the stronger branch and remove the weaker one. 
• Twigs that block light and air → fruit needs sunlight to ripen, and airflow keeps diseases like apple scab at bay. 

The goal is to create an open, airy crown where light can reach all sides and branches don’t strangle each other. 

Don’t overdo it now 

Major pruning is best in late winter (Feb–Mar), when trees are dormant. Cuts heal faster then, disease risk is lower, and you can see the whole crown clearly.  After harvest, trees are “winding down.” Heavy pruning now stresses them. 

So in autumn: tidy gently. Save reshaping for the winter salon appointment. 

Pro tips 

1. Cut just above a bud or branch collar (the swollen base). That’s where healing starts. 
2. Use clean, sharp tools to avoid spreading disease. 
3. Angle cuts slightly so water runs off. 
4. Don’t remove more than 20–30% of the crown in one go (especially in older trees). 

Perennials: Don’t Chop Everything!

Perennials like asters or coneflowers fade in autumn, and many gardeners feel the itch to mow them all down. But hold on! Leaving some of those stems and seed heads has surprising benefits: 

• Winter interest: your garden doesn’t have to look like a bald patch in December. 
• Wildlife shelter: dried stems are hotels for insects, spiders, and pollinators; seed heads feed birds. 
• Spring helpers: old stalks mark where new shoots will emerge. 

Rule of thumb: remove weak, mushy foliage now, but keep sturdy stalks and seed heads. In early spring, once frost has passed, cut them back to make way for new growth. 

Think of it as giving insects a cozy winter spa retreat, or setting up a little Airbnb for bugs and birds. 

Why the Hedge-Cutting Ban Exists

In Germany, the Federal Nature Conservation Act says: from March 1 to September 30, you may not do major cutting or felling of trees, hedges, and bushes. Why? Because that’s the prime bird breeding season. Many muncipalities enforce this strictly. And yes, fines could happen. Light trimming and maintenance is usually allowed, but always check for nests, local rules and specific species.

Quick Autumn Checklist

1. Walk around your tree, mark dead or crossing branches. 
2. Use clean, sharp tools. Cut just above a bud or branch collar (no stubs!). 
3. Don’t remove more than 20–30% at once, especially in older trees. 
4. Leave perennials’ seed heads for wildlife and winter beauty. 
5. Dispose of infected wood separately, don’t compost it. 
6. Make notes for yourself (“apple tree cleaned, south side opened up”), future you will thank you. 

With these steps, you’re setting up your garden not only for winter rest but also for a strong, healthy start in spring. And meanwhile, you’re giving wildlife a fighting chance. Win-win!

Compost is an excellent soil amendment and a powerful way to enrich impoverished soil. But as compost requires moisture and plenty of organisms, is it possible in the desert? The answer is yes—with a few adaptations. With some extra shade and water, you can produce nutrient-rich compost in even the most inhospitable of deserts.

The Desert Environment

To compost effectively, it helps to understand the nuances of desert conditions. Arid and harsh as they are, conditions can vary dramatically across desert environments. In the Desert Southwest of the USA, for example, there are over six major biomes, from extreme arid to high mountain deserts, to milder subtropical valleys and vast mountainous expanses. Many plants will grow across multiple biomes, and while they can survive the harshest conditions, they thrive even more under optimal ones.

Generally speaking, most desert plants are adapted to low-nutrient, sandy soils that drain quickly. While compost can promote lush green growth, many desert plants may flower less if the soil is too rich, since arid conditions are what trigger blooming.

We’ll cover when and what to add compost to next.

What and When to Compost

Native cacti and succulent plants do not need compost amendment when being planted or transplanted. That being said, check the ideal soil conditions for the plant. Excessively sandy soil will benefit from some compost around the root zone to hold more water for longer, and heavy clay or caliche soils will benefit from the air and water pockets it will add.

Most non-native plants will require compost when planting, and yearly additions to increase the nutrient levels around the plants. Vegetable and flower beds adore plentiful additions of compost, and this, combined with good mulching, will lower your water bill, too.

A light compost amendment each year for native plants will help them weather challenging conditions and put down stronger roots. The exception for this would be cacti and succulents; they do very well on their own. 

Composting in the desert is best done in the fall, after the long, hot summer. This allows plants to recover from extreme heat and lets nutrients settle into the soil over the cooler, wetter winter months. Adding around 10-20% mix to the general growing zone is plenty, and will keep the conditions on the scarce side, which most plants prefer. Mixing in pebbles or gravel in small quantities can keep the soil draining well, too.

Starting your Desert Compost

Desert soil is, despite how it looks, incredibly high in microorganisms and fungi, and these are essential nutrient recyclers. A few shovelfuls of desert soil will provide your compost pile with all of the organisms you need to get going.

The Container

Next, choose your compost setup. You can use a closed container, like a large bucket or repurposed trash bin with holes drilled for airflow. Many Arizona municipalities, for example, offer old bins for this purpose.

Alternatively, you can create an open pile under some shade. Open piles allow monsoon rains to naturally add moisture, but they require a bit more hands-on maintenance to keep the pile active. A permeable shade cloth is a good cover. 

Compost bins don’t need to be expensive or complicated to make compost. The structure should keep birds, dogs, cats, and other animals out, while allowing easy access for adding more material and turning. A good bin allows for gas exchange and drainage.

Recycled wooden pallets marked with HT (heat-treated) can be attached with hinges to create an effective compost bin. Old tin sheets, chicken wire mesh, and more can be recycled into a perfectly good solution.

The optimal size for a bin or pile is 3 ft x3 ft x3 ft to 4 ft x4 ft x4 ft. This balances temperature, airflow, and ease of maintenance well.

Water 

The compost pile should be kept damp throughout the year. It should be around 40-60% water weight overall and will feel like a barely damp sponge. During the summer, weekly misting from the hose may be needed, or decomposition will slow down.

To reduce water consumption, you can add waste coffee or tea water to the pile, unsalted water used for cooking, or that leftover water in your bottle that might be a little old to drink.

Materials

Most organic kitchen and garden waste can be composted. Aim for a balance of “browns” and “greens” to maintain a healthy 20:1 carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio.

Browns (carbon-rich):

• Dry leaves
• Straw or hay
• Sawdust or wood shavings (in limited amounts)
• Twigs and small branches

Greens (nitrogen-rich):

• Vegetable peelings
• Fruit scraps (in moderation)
• Spent flowers
• Coffee grounds
• Unscented, unsalted tea or coffee water

Tips:

• Keep woody materials low overall, as they sequester nitrogen until they fully decompose.
• Chop or shred larger items to speed decomposition.
• Avoid materials with disease, pesticides, or heavy salt content.

The EPA has good reference tables for common compostable materials.

Adding Oxygen

The desert environment will add plenty of heat to your compost pile, so keeping it well aerated is essential to stop the microorganisms from starving. Adding twigs and small branches creates permanent airflow paths, and rigorous weekly ‘turn’ will mix up well-composted material with freshly added materials.

Maintaining Your Compost

Compost piles enjoy being fed, so try to add materials weekly, even if it’s only small amounts. Breaking up additions into smaller pieces increases their surface area, meaning they will decompose faster.

Turning ensures the pile stays mostly aerobic, preventing unpleasant odors and speeding decomposition. As you turn the pile, add water so that it is more consistently damp. 

Your compost is ready when the material is a dark, earthy brown with a sweet smell. It should have reached an internal temperature of 130°F for at least 7 days to kill off any harmful organisms. This is easy to achieve in the desert heat.

Key-Point Roundup

• Use desert soil to jump-start your pile: A few shovelfuls provide essential microorganisms and fungi.
• Choose the right setup: Closed bins retain moisture with less maintenance; open piles under shade benefit from natural rain but need more hands-on care.
• Keep it damp, not soggy: Aim for 40–60% water content—like a barely damp sponge. Avoid salty or contaminated water.
• Balance browns and greens: Aim for roughly a 20:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. Browns = dry leaves, straw, twigs; Greens = kitchen scraps, coffee grounds.
• Aerate regularly: Turn the pile weekly to maintain oxygen flow and speed decomposition. Adding twigs and small branches creates airflow paths.
• Amend wisely: Native desert plants need light annual compost; non-natives and vegetable/flower beds can handle more. Cacti and succulents do not need compost except in rare cases.
• Timing matters: Compost in fall after the summer heat; this helps nutrients integrate into the soil and supports plant recovery.
• Ready when it’s dark and earthy: Compost is finished when it smells sweet, is dark brown, and has been at ~130°F for at least 7 days.

Wrapping Up

With some extra attention, a healthy sprinkling of desert soil, and a steady stream of garden waste, composting in desert environments is almost as easy as in more temperate ones. Keep an eye on moisture levels, and you’ll have a steady supply of rich compost after a couple of years, which will be perfect for a light annual amendment around your plants.

So, how can you mimic that natural nutrient cycle and the accumulation of organic matter on the ground at home? One of the simplest and most effective methods is mulching.

Why Mulch Matters

Mulching does more than make a tree look tidy. A proper layer of mulch:

• Helps the soil retain moisture for longer.
• Regulates soil temperature by providing shade and a frost barrier.
• Suppresses weeds, reducing competition for water and nutrients.
• Adds organic matter as it breaks down.
• Creates a physical barrier for the roots, minimizing damage from lawnmowers and foot traffic.

A good layer of mulch is generally at least 2–3 inches thick, though this can vary depending on your location. Mulching is best done in spring or fall, when the tree is free from the stresses of winter and summer. This timing also allows for careful digging around the tree without harming its roots.

Choosing Your Mulch

Organic, undyed mulch is always best for your garden. These mulches are free from chemicals or dyes that could contaminate the soil. Common store-bought options include:

• Shredded bark
• Wood chips
• Coarse compost

You can also make your own at home:

• Shredded leaves
• Leaf mold
• Coarse compost

Avoid rocks and gravel unless you live in a desert environment such as the Desert Southwest. Care should still be taken, however, (and should be mostly avoided), as the accumulation of rocks and gravel around trees can create a localized heat island that can scald roots and reflect heat onto the trunk.

Rock and gravel mulches also create prime growing spots for weeds, and while they need less new material added over time, they eventually compact the soil and starve the ground of oxygen and nutrients.

How to Mulch a Tree: Step by Step

Mulching is best done in early spring or late fall when the soil is moist and temperatures are moderate. If you live in a climate with very hard frosts, some experts recommend waiting until after the first frost in fall, or after the last heavy frost in spring.

Step 1: Size your Mulch Ring The ideal mulch ring extends to the tree’s ‘drip line,’ or the general reach of the branches. For larger mature trees, this can get quite large, so a 4–6 ft diameter ring is a good place to start, although extending mulch as far as practical toward the drip line provides the greatest benefit.

Mark the ring with stakes, non-toxic chalk paint, or simply eyeball it for a more natural look. You can always adjust it later if needed.

Step 2: Clear the Base The area marked for your mulch ring should be free of weeds and grass before you spread mulch. Weeds can be smothered with cardboard or removed with a small shovel or tool. Remove the top layer of weedy and grassy soil carefully to minimize damage to roots.

Step 3: Expose the Root Flare and Main Roots Look for the root flare—the area where the trunk widens and transitions into the main buttress roots. This part should always be visible above the soil surface, never buried. Carefully dig around the flare and main roots to fully expose them, giving them access to oxygen. This prevents rot or girdling roots caused by the buried flare.

Step 4: Remove Additional Soil if Needed Because mulch will be 2–3 inches deep, it’s a good idea to level the ring, especially if the topsoil covers roots too deeply. If the area is raised or compacted, gently remove excess soil to expose the root flare and avoid smothering roots.

Step 5: Spread the Mulch Apply mulch evenly to a depth of 2–3 inches. Keep mulch 1–3 inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture from contacting the bark, which can encourage pests and disease. You should always be able to see the first part of the root flare clearly; if not, the mulch is too close or too deep.

Step 6: Maintain and Reapply Mulch breaks down over time, adding organic matter to the soil. In some climates, this may require refreshing the mulch once a year; in drier areas or with slower-decomposing mulch, every 2–3 years may be sufficient. When refreshing mulch, always check that it hasn’t crept up the trunk—mulch volcanoes can suffocate roots and invite decay.

For desert trees 

The steps are almost all the same for desert trees. However, with the sandier soil, less prep work will be required. Gravel is recommended as a soil amendment in small amounts before applying mulch to condition the soil and provide good air and water circulation.

Still apply a 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch to the drip line. I typically mulch mine with the organic litter they create, allowing the leaves to decompose a little in a pile before spreading, so they aren’t carried so easily by the strong winds.

Common Mulching Mistakes

Even experienced gardeners sometimes make mistakes when mulching. Here are a few pitfalls to watch for so your mulch works with your tree, not against it.

1: Weed Barriers and Over-Mulching. Avoid using weed membranes or landscape fabric—they can suffocate the soil and disrupt natural microbial activity. Weeds are easy to pull from mulch since they take longer to root. Also, don’t overdo the mulch: more than 4 inches can smother roots and reduce oxygen flow.

2: Excessive Moisture Retention. Fine-textured mulch like peat moss, grass clippings, or sawdust holds excessive moisture and can lead to fungal issues. These materials should only be used in combination with coarser mulch. A balanced blend improves drainage and aeration.

3: Heat Injury. Dark-colored mulches absorb heat during the day and release it slowly at night, which can cause heat stress and tissue damage—especially in young trees. Undyed, natural mulch is a safer choice.

4: Root Collar Rot. Mounding mulch around the base of a tree (a “mulch volcano”) can trap moisture against the bark, leading to decay at the root collar or to root girdling. Once this tissue is compromised, disease organisms can easily invade, and girdled roots can eventually starve the tree.

Always keep mulch pulled back from the trunk and root flare.

Wrapping Up

Mulching your trees will help them thrive. It’s an easy way to give them nutrients, support a healthy living environment, and create a healthier environment not only for your trees, but also for the wildlife that depend on them.

Mulching also doesn’t have to be done all at once. There are a lot of trees in my yard, so I’ve spread it out. I’ve started with a small ring around all of the trees and will slowly expand them to the right size, doing a little every year.

In this article, we’ll run through the simple process and break down (pun intended) some of the science behind it.

What is Leaf Mold?

Despite its name, leaf mold isn’t slimy, smelly, or unpleasant. It’s simply decomposed leaves broken down by fungal activity rather than bacteria, as happens in traditional composting. Unlike compost, leaf mold doesn’t require “green” materials like vegetable scraps—it’s just leaves. The result is a dark, earthy-smelling material packed with nutrients that enriches the soil and supports plant health.

Why Use Leaf Mold in Your Garden?

Fallen leaves naturally decompose over a period of one to two years, returning essential nutrients to the soil and conditioning it to be more suitable for plant growth. By actively making leaf mold, you speed up this process and gain several key benefits:

• Improved soil structure – Leaf mold makes soil more porous by creating air pockets and adding structure, helping roots grow deeper and stronger.
• Enhanced moisture retention – Leaf mold can hold several times its weight in water (and it releases it slowly), reducing the need for frequent watering—especially useful in dry seasons.
• Boosted soil biodiversity – By introducing beneficial fungi and microbes that work alongside worms and other decomposers, leaf mold creates healthy, aerated soil that has readily available nutrients.

How to Make Leaf Mold

All you need are leaves, water, and time. With a few simple steps, you can speed up the decomposition process and have nutrient-rich leaf mold ready in as little as six months.

Step 1: Collect the Right Leaves

• Choose a variety of deciduous leaves. If it falls to the ground in autumn, it’s deciduous.
• Avoid waxy leaves (e.g., magnolia, holly) and limit the amount of pine needles you use, as they decompose much more slowly and are quite acidic.
• Thin, crisp leaves (like birch or maple) break down fastest, while tougher leaves (like oak) take longer but still produce excellent leaf mold. A diverse mix is ideal and will vary based on your local tree species.

Step 2: Shred and Contain

• Shred some of the leaves by running over them with a lawnmower a couple of times, or by rubbing them between your hands. This increases the decomposable surface area. Some leaves should be left whole.
• Stuff the leaves into your bag of choice (plastic or paper [I prefer paper]) or a dedicated leaf pile in a cool, shady area. Both methods work well—it’s mostly about space and convenience. Note that paper bags may start to decompose, so you may need to double-bag.
• If you are creating your leaf mold in a pile (or compost bin), placing a waterproof or weed-suppressing membrane, such as burlap, underneath the leaf pile helps the pile to stay damp.
• If using bags, poke a few small holes near the top for airflow and the bottom for drainage. A pencil works well for this.

Step 3: Add Water and Wait

• Lightly moisten the leaves—they should be damp but not soaking wet.
• Store the filled bags of leaves or pile in your chosen shady spot and check every few weeks, adding water as needed to maintain moisture.
• Turn the leaves (by shaking or with a trowel) occasionally to encourage healthy fungi (both aerobic and anaerobic, for you fungi enthusiasts) to decompose the leaves more quickly and efficiently.

Step 4: Use in Your Garden

• Your leaf mold is ready when most of the leaves have broken down into dark, crumbly material (typically within 6–12 months).
• Spread it as mulch on top of soil or mix it into garden beds.

Top Uses for Leaf Mold in the Garden

• Mulch: Spread 2–3 inches thick around plants and trees to conserve water, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
• Soil Amendment: Mix into garden beds or containers to improve soil texture, aeration, and water-holding capacity.
• Seed Starting Mix: Blend sifted leaf mold with sand or compost for a light, moisture-retentive seedling medium.
• Potting Mix Ingredient: Combine with compost and perlite/vermiculite for a balanced, nutrient-rich potting soil.

The Science

Leaves are carbon-rich, which makes them delicious to carbon-consuming micro-organisms, like fungi. Because fallen leaves are either dead or mostly dead, they have lost most of their nitrogen, and are now considered ‘brown’ garden material as opposed to the traditional ‘green’ garden material traditionally used for compost.

Enzymes released by the fungi break down the leaf matter, releasing very little heat. That’s why leaf mold doesn’t ‘cook’ like compost—it stays cool and works slowly, leaving you with a stable, humus-rich conditioner

Final Thoughts

Leaf mold is an easy, low-cost way to improve soil health while recycling what nature provides. With minimal effort, you can transform fallen leaves into a powerhouse soil conditioner that keeps your garden thriving.

So next time autumn rolls around, save—don’t toss—the leaves from your garden, or your neighbour’s garden, and start making leaf mold for healthier soil and stronger plants!

For extra bonus points, leave some leaves to decompose naturally. This is good both for the plants they fell from and for the host of critters that call leaf piles home.

Sometimes, I just want to grow onions that are literally called Walla Walla. Don’t mind me if I do.

So let’s meet the extended Allium family; the spicy, teary-eyed relatives you know, the ancient ones you didn’t expect, and the perennial oddballs that keep coming back.

The Long History of Onions

Onions are among the oldest cultivated vegetables in the world. Archaeological evidence shows they were grown in Central Asia and the Middle East over 5,000 years ago. Ancient Egyptians adored them: onions were buried with pharaohs, symbolizing eternal life thanks to their endless rings. The Greeks trained athletes on diets full of onions, while the Romans believed onions improved strength and courage.

By the Middle Ages, onions were so valuable in Europe that they were used to pay rent and even given as wedding gifts. (Romantic, right? “Honey, I got you… onions.”)

Garlic, leeks, and chives share similar pedigrees, all part of the Allium family, which includes over 900 species worldwide. Today, we mostly lean on a few supermarket staples, but the family tree is much richer.

The Classics: Bulbing Alliums

• Yellow Onion: The global workhorse. Strong flavor, long storage.
• Red Onion: Likely originating from the Meditarranean. Sweeter, milder and beautiful raw in salads. Though less storable.
• White onion: Popular in Latin American cooking for centuries. Sharper, spicier, but with shorter shelf life.
• Shallots: Brought to Europe by Crusaders from the Middle East. Cluster-forming, sweet and subtle.
• Cipollini Onions: From Italy, bred for their high sugar content.

The Perennial Oddballs

• Welsh Onion (Allium fistulosum): Despite the name, this perennial comes from China, cultivated there for over 1,000 years. Never bulbs, just keeps giving green shoots every spring.
• Egyptian Walking Onion (Allium x proliferum): A medieval European curiosity, this hybrid reproduces via little bulbs that topple over and ‘walk’ across your garden.
• Chives (Allium Schoenoprasum): Native to both Europe and Asia, chives have been harvested since the Middle Ages. Their purple pompoms attract pollinators while you snip the leaves.
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum): Cultivated since ancient Egypt and Rome, leeks are mild and just awesome.

The Surprise Alliums

Not everything onion-y looks like an onion!

• Scallions / Spring Onions (young Allium cepa): Harvested before bulbing, these are basically teenage onions. Tender, mild, and fast-growing. Many people don’t realize they’re just “unfinished onions.” 
• Garlic: Traced back over 4,000 years, used in medicine and rituals. Egyptians fed it to pyramid builders for strength.
• Ornamental Alliums: Those tall garden fireworks with purple globe flowers? Still onions. They were first popularized in Victorian ornamental gardens.

Why do onions make us cry?

It’s all chemistry.

1. Cutting an onion breaks its cells
2. Those cells release an enzyme called alliinase
3. Alliinase reacts with sulfur compounds (absorbed from the soil) to produce ‘syn-Propanethial-S-Oxide’ (a volatile gas). Perfect word for when you’re playing Hangman.
4. That volatile gas drifts upward, stinging your eyes. Your tear glands release water to flush it out.

Cooking, chilling or soaking onions in water before chopping can reduce that reaction! But in short: onions evolved chemical tear gas to discourage predators.

Which makes me suddenly realize that I’m the predator here. Chopping through their defenses every evening. Now I feel kinda bad for the fam. 

Why plant diverse Alliums?

Each variety in the Allium family brings its own flavor to the table, from the fiery kick of white onions to the candy-like sweetness of Cipollini. By mixing annuals with perennials, you can enjoy harvests almost all year round. 

Growing heirloom varieties also means you’re keeping history alive in your garden, connecting directly to thousands of years of food culture! It’s not just about the kitchen either; ornamental Alliums draw in pollinators, while diversity in your beds makes your crops more resilient and less likely to be wiped out by disease.

Planting Now (September–October)

This is the perfect time to:

• Plant garlic cloves for harvest next summer.
• Plant shallot sets for gourmet bulbs by midsummer.
• Put in overwintering onion sets for an early summer harvest.
• Establish perennial Alliums like Welsh onions and walking onions.

Wanna know more about how to plant them? Check out this piece by Erin on** how to grow amazing Alliums,** full of practical tips to get your onion patch thriving.

Final Thought

The Allium family is ancient and diverse. From the reliable yellow onion to the flamboyant red, the wandering Egyptian, and the delicate chive, this clan has shaped kitchens and cultures for millennia. Planting a few new varieties this autumn means you’ll not only expand your harvest, you’ll also be growing a slice of history, resilience, and flavor that goes far beyond the supermarket net bag.

Like always, be mindful of the plants you eat. They’ve developed defenses, strategies, and quirks to make it this far. In their own way, they’re survivors, and a life, no matter how small, deserves respect.

A Family With Many Faces

As a triplet myself, I’ve always thought of my family as pretty big. But it’s nothing compared to this one. You may know the brassica family as just cabbages and cauliflowers, yet the Brassicaceae clan is much larger than most people imagine. It has around 370 genera and over 4,000 species, making it one of the most important plant families in both our gardens and our kitchens.

Some members include:

• Kale and collards
• Broccoli and cauliflower
• Brussels sprouts
• Kohlrabi
• Radishes and turnips
• Bokchoy, mizuna, arugula (yes really!), mustard greens

So, amazingly, many of these vegetables all come from one of the 4,000 species: Brassica Oleracea. They are carefully bred of centuries to emphasize different parts of the plant. Leaves, stems, buds, flowers, roots, they are all transformed into unique crops, yet bound by family ties.

Why Autumn is Their Season

Brassicas thrive when the air is cool and crisp. They dislike the stress of high summer heat, but as soon as autumn rolls in, they grow strong and sweet.

In fact, many brassicas taste even better after the first frost! Why, you ask? Here’s the cool part: cold weather triggers chemical changes that turn starches into sugars, making kale sweeter and Brussels sprouts less bitter. So instead of bundling up in warmer clothes like we do, they literally change their chemistry. Plants are way cooler than us (kidding… kinda).

In short, where summer crops retreat, brassicas shine. They are the bridge between seasons, carrying us from the abundance of late summer into the steady rhythm of winter harvests.

Fun Facts to Share Around the Dinner Table

• The brassica family includes crops, herbs and even ornamentals!

• • Canola oil (a staple cooking oil worldwide) comes from a brassica too: Brassica napus.

  • • Brassicas are also called “crucifers” because their four-petaled flowers look like a cross.
• This fam is a nutritional powerhouse! They are packed with vitamins C, K and folates. Plus compounds called glucosinolates that give them their characteristic mustardy bite. And, and, and this is also the compound that protect the plant from pests (and ironically, they’re also linked to health benefits for us)! You should totally flex this glucosinolates-fact at dinner.
• Broccoli and cauliflower are essentially the same plant, just bred for different flower structure.

Caring for Brassicas in Your Garden

Soil & Feeding

• Brassicas are hungry plants! Give them fertile, well-drained soil enriched with compost.
• They thrive with steady moisture and benefit from a balanced organic fertiliser.

Planting Time

• Late summer is perfect for sowing fast growers like arugula, mustard and radishes for autumn salads.
• Kale, cabbages and brussels sprouts can be transplanted now and will be ready to harvest as autumn deepens.

Frost is a Friend

• Don’t fear the cold, frost improves the flavor! With a little protection (row covers, mulch) many brassicas will carry you right into winter.

Pest and Protection

Okay, this is an important one. Brassicas are vulnerable to diseases. The most serious is clubroot, a soilborne parasite that causes swollen roots and stunted growth. Once present, it can survive in the soil for up to 20 years! Because all members of the brassica family are susceptible, it’s very important to rotate them as a group.

Rotation helps because it:

• Breaks pest and disease cycles
• Lets the soil recover nutrients
• Keeps plants healthier and yields stronger

A Simple 4-Year Rotation Plan

Here’s a beginner-friendly rotation cycle you could use:

Year 1 -> Brassicas (so your cabbage, kale, broccoli, etc.)

Year 2 -> Legumes (peas, beans): add nitrogen to soil

Year 3 -> Roots & Alliums (Carrots, beets, onions, garlic)

Year 4 -> Fruiting crops (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash)

Then back to year 1 with brassicas. The key: Don’t plant brassicas in the same soil two years in a row.

Using Planter’s Growing Guide

To make rotation simple, use the Planter app’s growing guide:

• Each crop is tagged with its plant family, so you know which ones count as brassicas.
• Planting calendars help you plan sowing and transplanting at the right time.
• Care tips keep track of spacing, feeding and watering needs. By marking wat you’ve planted in each bed, you can easily see when and where to rate crops next season.

When summer crops fade, brassicas take over. They’re tough, nutritious, and often taste best in the cool of autumn. By giving them fertile soil, protection from pests, and a good crop rotation, they’ll reward you with months of fresh harvests.

Happy gardening!

Native Flowers

I’ve been slowly introducing native plants as my budget and time allow. I have three Gregg’s Mistflower (Conoclinium greggii), and I’ve already seen about a dozen Queen butterflies visiting them. Mistflower is a keystone species for them, so that’s very exciting. I’ve also noticed tiny native bees darting in and out of the blooms, collecting pollen with surprising precision.

The goldenrod is in full bloom, a sure sign that fall is on the way. I’m hoping to attract migrating Monarch butterflies this year, along with any other visitors that may drop in. Even the occasional hummingbird has been spotted hovering near the goldenrod, curious and quick.

I’ve planted two milkweed plants. They’ve already bloomed and should start spreading in time for next year. Milkweed is a keystone species for butterflies and native bees, so I’m hoping to see more of both.

Habitats

I mentioned leaf litter in my last entry, and I’ve been continuing that. It’s baby lizard season right now, and I’ve seen dozens zipping around the garden among the leaves — their tiny movements catching the light like living confetti.

I’ve also been scouting locations for bee habitats, which will be my Fall project. It won’t be so hot then, and after trimming all twelve-plus trees, I’ll have a clear sense of both tree and ground habitat spaces. I’m particularly excited about creating little “sunny nooks” under the trees where bees and other beneficial insects can nest safely.

Seedlings

Arizona’s cool growing season is approaching, and I’ve started some early seedlings: two types of sunflowers, mini-pumpkins, and soon, Mexican native popcorn (the closest native seed I could find) and some lemon balm. 

My loofah has doubled in size and is ready for repotting.

Long-term Plans

In my quest to reduce water usage, I’ve started another round of native plants: Jojoba, Apache Plume grass, and Fern of the Desert. I also have Penstemon and globemallow ready to plant, along with some winter-rain wildflower seeds. These seeds are unpredictable — you scatter them before any hint of rain and hope they bloom.

This cool season, I’ll likely stick to pumpkins and corn due to space and time constraints. I’m starting a Master’s program, but I might add easy vegetables like cucumbers if time allows. 

This is just a quick update as everything is in an ‘inbetween stage’ right now. In a few months, there’ll be a lot more to show.

In this article, we’ll go through some easy at-home fertilizers you can make that are more environmentally friendly than most commercial options and can be more affordable, too.

What Do Fertilizers Do?

Fertilizers are food for plants: they provide nutrients for them to grow and thrive. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three key fertilizer nutrients.

As a quick overview:

• Nitrogen: Promotes green, leafy growth and photosynthesis.
• Phosphorus: Supports root development, flowering, and fruiting.
• Potassium: Enhances overall plant health, disease resistance, and water retention.

These are classed as major nutrients.

The minor nutrients are calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. The micro-nutrients are: boron, copper, iron, manganese, zinc, chlorine, and cobalt in tiny amounts.

The availability of nutrients in your soil is partly linked to the pH, a measurement of acidity or alkalinity. If it is too high or too low, the nutrients may be locked up and not available to plants. Fertilizers are one way to correct this imbalance.

Fertilizer Cautions

Even homemade garden fertilizers, generally considered safer than synthetic fertilizers, can pollute waterways and the wider environment. Take care not to overapply. Additionally, store all products in a safe place and handle them responsibly; some ingredients can be harmful to skin or health in large quantities.

These homemade fertilizers are not ideal for indoor plants as they can mold the soil if there isn’t enough light or airflow.

Pre-Fertilizing

Before you start fertilizing, you should check how your soil is already. First, collect a soil sample and conduct a pH test. There are at-home kits for this, with varying reliability, but the best results can be obtained through your local university extension or local authority. Many businesses also offer pH testing.

Take samples from different areas of your yard because soil pH can vary even in small gardens.

For most vegetables, a soil pH between 6.2–6.8, or slightly acidic, is ideal. Many ornamentals and flowers prefer more alkaline conditions, while others can tolerate either. If your soil pH is very far away, you may need to amend your soil. Your university extension can advise you on this.

Second, make sure your soil is rich and healthy. Healthy, microorganism-rich soil is essential for proper nutrient uptake by plants. Quality compost is excellent, along with worm castings, shredded wood, coir, leaves, and properly sourced manure.

Compost Teas

You shouldn’t drink these teas, but your plants will love them. While organic matter is excellent for long, slower-release nutrients, steeping the matter in water creates a liquid version that your plants can absorb more quickly. Here are some recipes.

Note: All these recipes work great with collected rainwater for extra eco-points!

Manure Tea

Aged manure is available in most garden centers, or if you know a local farmer/rancher, you may be able to get some there. In a large bucket (probably at the back of your garden, as this can smell a bit), mix manure and water in a 1:2 ratio (fill the bucket about ⅓ full of manure, and ⅔ full of water). Stir well, and leave to steep for a few days, stirring every day.

Once steeped (the liquid should be a medium brown), separate the liquid into a separate container. Add the solids to your compost pile, and water your plants with a diluted tea mix once a week. Dilute the tea to the color of ‘iced tea’ when you water, as full strength will overwhelm your plants.

Wear gloves when working with manure.

Weed Tea

Weeds are a constant menace, but many are nutrient hoarders and fixers, and make excellent fertilizer. You want weeds that have not gone to seed and that have not been sprayed with chemicals. Top picks for nutrient-dense weeds are chickweed, dandelions, alfalfa, stinging nettles, yarrow, purslane, and wild fennel.

Put your collected weeds into a bucket, fill with water, and let sit until the water has turned brown/black and begins to smell (a few days to a few weeks). You should cover the bucket during this time to speed up the process. Separate the mixture, and then water your plants with a diluted mix, this time a little lighter than iced tea.

Weed tea can also be used as foliar (leaf) feed if you dilute it further. Apply sparingly.

Eggshell Tea

Ah, eggshells, the calcium-rich item that takes so long to break down in your compost. Making boiled tea unlocks the calcium much quicker.

With 10–20 clean eggshells, boil a gallon of water and add the eggshells to it. Turn off the heat and let the mix cool overnight. The following morning, strain the mix and add the eggshells to your compost. The eggshell water can then be applied weekly to your garden as is, no dilution necessary. Tomatoes and cruciferous greens will love this mix.

Veg Tea

This is one of my favorites, as it reduces water waste, too. The next time you cook up some vegetables on your stovetop (whether steaming or boiling), save the water! This (unsalted) water is infused with nutrients that can be used to fertilize your houseplants and garden plants. You can water your plants with it as normal.

Bonus Recipe: You can also save your vegetable peelings (looking at you, potatoes) in a bag or small bucket, boil them in water, and allow them to cool and steep overnight, just as you did for the eggshells. Strain, and water your plants with the liquid.

Be sure the vegetables are organic or haven’t been sprayed with pesticides.

The final few recipes are non-compost tea options.

Molasses

Good for more than just baking or stirring into hot drinks, molasses is incredibly nutrient-rich. You’ll want unsulfured, blackstrap molasses (or just blackstrap if you can’t find unsulfured) for this easy fertilizer, which is as easy as mixing 1–3 tablespoons of molasses into a gallon of water and watering your plants with it.

Molasses with sulfur should be applied in lesser amounts to prevent over-sulfuring the soil.

Coffee and Tea

Leftover coffee grounds and teabags can be used one more time before you throw them away or compost them.

Coffee grounds are very acidic, so they should be used in moderation, although ericaceous plants (acidic soil-loving) and vegetables (but not tomatoes) will benefit from them. You can sprinkle it on the top of the soil around plants to gently enrich the soil with nitrogen.

Alternatively, coffee grounds can be steeped to form a weak coffee mix, which can be used to water your plants once a week.

For tea, you can remove the tea leaves from the bag and mix them into your compost (the bags often have microplastics) or steep the bag further, and use the weak tea mixture to water your plants once a week.

Seaweed and Kelp

This is perfect if you live near the coast, especially the north-eastern USA, or the UK. You can collect seaweed from permissible places on the coast, or buy it if you’d prefer. To prepare the seaweed, rinse it well to remove sand and salt, and then leave to dry out a little in the sun to kill any bacteria.

The quickest way to help your plants absorb the nutrients is to create a liquid fertilizer by soaking the seaweed or kelp in a bucket for 1–3 weeks. The seaweed can either be removed or blended into the mix with an old food processor. Strain the liquid and apply to the topsoil no more than twice a week. You can also use a diluted mix in a spray bottle as a foliar spray.

When to Apply Fertilizer

Fertilizers are best applied in the early morning when the sun is coming up. High temperatures and intense sun restrict nutrient take-up and can sometimes cause fertilizer burn if it’s accidentally over-applied.

Apply fertilizer during key growth seasons when the plant is actively growing for best results, though this can vary depending on the plant. Roses are much more fickle, and many appreciate year-round nourishment.

It’s important not to apply too much fertilizer at once, or too many different types. A ‘less is more’ approach is a good way to start, increasing doses as necessary. Test your soil pH periodically (once a season is a good start) to check how your soil is changing. Remember to add nutrients to your soil with compost and other organic materials throughout the year.

Final Thoughts

Homemade fertilizers are an affordable, sustainable way to boost your garden’s health. By tuning into your soil’s needs and using what you already have in your kitchen or backyard, you can nourish your plants naturally while reducing waste and protecting the environment.

In this article, we’ll go over some of the key issues they’re facing, how your garden can help them to thrive, and what they’ll do for you in return.

Who Are the Native Bees?

Honeybees are now a common sight across the world, and while they are incredibly important—producing honey and pollinating crops—they aren’t the whole story.

Most native bees are solitary and produce neither honey nor beeswax. As such, they are considerably less aggressive than honey bees, who are actively defending themselves and their hive.

Some key native bee species across the globe are: mason bees, leafcutter bees, bumblebees, and carpenter bees (but there are over 20,000 total!)

As native bees evolved with native plants, they are more effective pollinators. Mason bees, for example, pollinate 95% of the plants they visit, which is far greater than the average 55% for honeybees. A single mason bee can also pollinate as many flowers as 100 honeybees because they carry pollen on their underside as opposed to just their legs. 

Why Do the Bees Need Help?

Pesticides, loss of habitat, and ecosystem fragmentation are major drivers in lower bee numbers. Additionally, too many non-native species affect the availability of their preferred, or sometimes essential, food source or habitat condition. Increasing numbers of invasive animals and insects are problematic, too, as is the changing climate across the world. 

Creating Habitat

Habitat is key for any species, and cities and neighborhoods have fragmented ecosystems. We can, however, bridge the gap. 

Depending on the species, nesting sites may be in undisturbed ground, decaying wood, or small sheltered spaces. You can create all of these in your garden, with natural materials or by making ‘houses’ for them.

Bare Ground

Ground-nesting bees generally prefer sunny spots with a gentle slope. This helps them survive heavy rains. Soft, sandy-loam soil is key, too, so if you have heavy clay or very silty soil, you can amend a small area. The soft soil makes it easier for the bees to dig, while still providing enough structural integrity. 

What that looks like will vary depending on where you live. In deserts, this may mean sandy washes or dry slopes; in temperate regions, a small cleared patch of sandy loam works well; and in wetter rainforest climates, a slightly raised mound can prevent nests from flooding.

The area should be free of large vegetation, as they prefer exposed soil. Bunch grasses can be good to prevent soil erosion, and you can add gravel and small rocks too. Flowers nearby are helpful for a food source, especially if they’re native.

It’s important to till and disturb the soil in this area as little as possible. Once you’re set up, you’re ready to go. Light weeding will keep the area clear, and the bees should hopefully arrive.

Wood

This is a general term, and many ‘wood’ nesting bees will also make their homes in large-stemmed plants such as old hydrangeas and raspberries. The key is anything that is round-shaped and large enough that it can fit in, without being too large.

Piles of brush are also great habitat, along with shrub and hedge clippings, yearly tree prunings, and old stumps and larger branches. You can also gather old hollow bamboo canes, reeds, and other similar plants and pile them up. South-east facing is generally preferred so they catch enough sun but don’t overheat.

In dry desert regions, bees may use hollow agave stalks or yucca stems; in temperate woodlands, old orchard prunings or fallen logs provide perfect shelter; in rainforest regions, decaying logs and mossy branches are especially valuable.

You can also make your own nesting sites using a block of untreated wood. You can check with your local university extension to find what size holes are best for wood nesting bees; however, holes drilled 3/32–3/8 inch in diameter and 4–6 inches deep cover most bees. The holes should be smooth, and a ‘roof’ that overhangs the front is very beneficial in helping them survive rainstorms.

Sheltered Spaces

These bees overlap with wood nesting bees quite a bit, and many will make a home in a drilled bee-block, in decaying raspberry canes, and more. However, you can also create more spaces for them to make their home. 

Piles of leaves and brush are helpful, as are small piles of rocks that have lots of crevices. Bees seek out these dry, sheltered areas. 

Beyond nesting, bees also need reliable food and water sources to thrive.

Food and Water

A variety of native flowers will provide time-of-year-accurate food sources for your bees, and you can match the plants to the bees through your local university extension or many online resources. Most native flowering plants will attract native bees, and many university extension services have data sheets on native bees and the plants they frequent. 

Finally, shallow pools of water will provide spaces to drink. The dish or pool should have plenty of rocks that the bees can land on and climb onto, should they fall in. Line the base with pebbles and add a few taller stones for safe landing spots. A dish less than ½ inch deep is perfect, as it mimics woodland rain pools and the edges of shallow streams.

In drier climates, place dishes in the shade to slow evaporation; in cooler, wetter climates, a sunny placement keeps water warm enough for bee activity.

Provide water in both sunny and shaded areas, too, and refill every few days. 

Bee-friendly Plantings

The right mix of plants also depends on your region. The first step in supporting native bees is to plant large numbers of the same types of flowers or flowering plants in mass plantings. Bees love to conserve energy, and when they find a plant they like, they’ll keep coming back to it. Try to plant at least three of a plant together, unless it’s a large shrub or similar, so there are plenty of blooms together.

Plan groups that flower at slightly different intervals, too, some very early flowering plants, and some late summer ones, so there is a food source available throughout the year.

For example, desert gardeners might stagger cactus and spring wildflowers; temperate gardeners can mix early bulbs with summer perennials; rainforest gardeners can layer berry bushes with late-season woodland blooms; and in Australia, staggered grevillea or eucalyptus varieties can provide nectar almost year-round.

If you’re unsure about what native flowers are best for your area, local gardening groups and your local university extension have a wealth of information for you.

Benefits for You

Having friendly bees in your garden will help all of your plants, from the smallest flowers to your largest trees, to grow. Native bees are also an indicator species, indirectly supporting insects and bugs that help keep out invasive species by fostering a healthy habitat.

Native bees will also increase the pollination of your plants, both because many of them emerge earlier in the season than introduced bees and because they’re often more efficient pollinators. Additionally — and I think this is rather cool — many native bees vibrate at different frequencies from honeybees, which helps certain plants (tomatoes are a great example) release pollen more effectively.

Plus, you get to see all kinds of fun bees. Did you know that there are metallic green bees? Iridescent black bees? There are so, so many out there, and I could talk all day about bees because I love them so much. 

Try leaving just one corner of bare soil, planting a cluster of native flowers, or setting out a shallow dish of water this week — and watch how quickly the bees find you.

A helpful link for creating bee habitat: Nests for Native Bees | Xerces Society

Most of this straw will end up in barns and stables, but it’s also a gardener’s (yes, you!) secret weapon. If you can get your hands on some of this golden, abundantly available goodness, here’s how to put it to work in your garden.

Euh… what is straw, actually? 

Straw is the dry, hollow stalk left behind after cereal crops like wheat, rye, barley, or oats are harvested. The farmer takes the nutritious grain at the top, and the rest (the stems) are baled up. Unlike hay, which is cut grass and clover full of seeds and protein for animals, straw is low in nutrients and almost seed-free. That’s exactly why it’s so handy in the garden.

In short, as I used to always mix up hay with straw, hay is for animals and straw is for your garden! 

1. Mulch Magic

One of the easiest and most effective ways to use straw in the garden is as mulch. If you’re not familiar with this practice, think of mulch as a light blanket for your soil: a protective layer spread on top that shields and nourishes what’s underneath.

Mulch can be organic (like straw, leaves, wood chips, or compost) or inorganic (like gravel or fabric). Organic mulches are extra valuable because they don’t just protect the soil, they also break down over time, enriching it with nutrients and improving structure.

Want to dive deeper? Check out our dedicated blog post on the topic.

So, straw is a fantastic organic mulch. Here’s how to use it in short: Spread a 5–10 cm layer of straw around your veggie beds, berry bushes, or flower borders. Just remember to keep it a few centimeters away from plant stems to prevent rot.

2. Frost Protection

Straw is full of little air pockets (hollow stalks trap air), it works like a natural insulation layer. 

Why it matters:

• Temperature buffer! It protects roots from sudden freezes.
• Soil stability! It prevents frost heave (when freezing soil pushes plants out of the ground), which can be heartbreaking for the plant and gardener.
• Extended harvest! It lets you ‘store’ certain root veggies in the soil longer.

how to use it:

• Cover garlic beds right after planting in autumn
• Tuck a layer around perennial herbs like thyme, oregano or chives.
• Heap it over carrots, parsnips, or leeks to keep them harvest ready well into winter.

Whatcha get is snuggly plants, a stable soil and extended harvest! Woohoo!

3. Compost Booster

A healthy compost pile needs both “greens” (nitrogen-rich stuff like kitchen scraps) and “browns” (carbon-rich material). We also did a deep dive on this, check it out here!

Straw is the perfect brown. Adding it will:

• Balance nitrogen-rich waste! Pairs beautifully with veggie peels or fresh clippings.
• Adds structure! Keeps compost airy and prevents foul smells.
• Speeds decomposition! Microbial life thrives when carbon and nitrogen are in balance.

How to use it:

Add a layer of straw every time you add a bucket of ‘greens’. Tear or shred the straw for faster breakdown.

4. Grow Directly in a Straw Bale

For transparency, I haven’t tried this out myself yet. But if you’re feeling experimental, try straw-bale gardening! Kinda like mini raised beds. 

Why it works:

As the straw slowly decomposes, it turns into a warm, nutrient-rich medium. Meanwhile, the bale itself provides structure and excellent drainage.

How to do it:

1. First condition the bale.Water it thoroughly for around 7-10 days and sprinkle with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (like diluted compost tea) to kick-start decomposition.
2. Once the interior softens, tuck in your desired plants like lettuce, basil or even squash and tomatoes.
3. Then it’s up to you to water it regularly and keep an eye on nutrients, I could imagine bales need a little extra feeding.

Joe Gardener has a really great piece on it, explaining everything in detail over here!

5. A Home for Wildlife

Rule 101: no garden without wildlife! Straw can actually serve as a five-star hotel for our fellow garden friends.

Why it matters:

• Shelter. Hedgehogs, frogs and toads hide in straw piles, safe from scary predators.
• Overwintering spot. Ladybirds and beneficial insects use straw to hibernate.
• Natural pest control. Those same creatures help keep slugs, snails and aphids in check (win=win).

How to use it:

Create a loose pile of straw in a quiet garden corner. Combine it with a log pile or stones for extra habitat variety. Samantha actually wrote an amazing piece about planning a wildlife garden, if you’re interested

Things to Watch Out For with Straw!

Straw is amazing in the garden, but it’s not completely without quirks. Keep these in mind:

• Not 100% seed-free. Occasionally a stray oat or wheat seed will sprout (easy to pluck out).
• Lightweight. Can blow around in windy spots; water it in or mix with heavier mulch to keep it put.
• Low fertility. Straw adds structure more than nutrients. Balance it with compost or manure for best results.
• Check for chemicals. Some straw is treated with herbicides or pesticides. For veggie beds, go organic if you can, or ask the farmer about its source.
• Moisture trap. In very damp climates, a thick straw layer can harbor slugs or encourage rot. Keep it thinner if your soil stays wet.

None of these are deal-breakers, but knowing them helps you get the best out of your straw without surprises.

Why Late Summer Is The (Straw) Moment

Right now, straw is everywhere. Fields are being cleared, and local farmers often sell bales for just a few euros. Stock up while it’s fresh, dry, and easy to handle. Trust me, come winter, you’ll be glad to have a pile ready for mulching, composting, or frost-proofing your beds.

So next time you pass those giant bales along the roadside, don’t just breathe in that warm, cereal-like smell with a smile. Grab a bale, drag it home (bonus workout), and let straw work its quiet magic in your plot.

Your soil, your plants, and maybe even a hedgehog or two will thank you. 

Happy straw-ing!

Unfortunately, this summer’s weather has been all over the place, and a lot of our tomatoes have split. And because our customers deserve only the best, we’re now… well… drowning in tomatoes. so, we’ve got a delicious problem: What on earth do we do with all these tomatoes? 

If you find yourself in a similar boat, first things first: let’s celebrate the chaos. Tomatoes taste like pure sunshine: sweet, tangy, and sóóooo juicy. But when they start piling up faster than you can slice them for a sandwich, it’s time to think beyond basic salads and standard red sauce. 

So here’s the plan: let’s dive into six creative ways to turn that tomato avalanche into pure edible joy: dishes and preserves that will carry the taste of summer all the way through the cold months ahead. 

1. Wine-Gummy Tomatoes – Jamie Oliver 

Not sure the name really does it justice, “Wine-Gummy Tomatoes” had me expecting… well, something completely different, haha. But what you actually get are a bit like sun-dried tomatoes, only juicier.  According to Jamie Oliver himself, the tomatoes go “wonderfully soft, sweet and sticky, and can be used in all sorts of other dishes.” Sold. 

Here’s the gist: 

• Preheat the oven to 100ºC/210ºF/. Halve your tomatoes and lay them cut-side up in baking trays. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt. 
• Slice some garlic and scatter a few slices over each tray. Drizzle generously with olive oil. 
• Roast low and slow, about 4 hours, until they’re soft and sticky. Cool them down. I could imagine a dehydrator might also work-out if you have one. Perhaps look into it, or ask an AI-friend.  
• Chop some fresh herbs and layer them into sterilized jars with the tomatoes. Top up with extra virgin olive oil so everything’s covered. 
• Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks (if they last that long).  

They’re amazing on bruschetta, tossed into pasta or snuck straight from the jar with a fork. 

You can find Jamie’s full ingredient list and step-by-step on his website right here!

2. Pickled tomatoes 

If you’ve never tried lacto-fermenting tomatoes, you’re in for a treat. It’s the same process that turns cabbage into sauerkraut or cucumbers into pickles. If you’d like to know more about lacto-fermentation, check out our blog post on it!

The method is simple: pack tomatoes in a salt brine, let the friendly bacteria get to work, and watch as they transform into an awesome snack that keeps for weeks in the fridge. 

Ingredients (1-liter jar) 

• 500–600g cherry or small plum tomatoes (firm, unblemished) 
• 2–3 cloves garlic, smashed 
• 1 tsp whole black peppercorns 
• 1–2 sprigs dill or thyme (optional) 
• 1 bay leaf (optional) 
• 20g sea salt (2% by weight of the water) 
• 1 liter non-chlorinated water 

Method 

1. Dissolve salt in water (the brine). 
2. Wash and dry tomatoes; pierce each once with a toothpick. 
3. Add garlic, peppercorns, herbs, and bay leaf to jar. Fill with tomatoes, leaving 3–4 cm headspace. 
4. Pour in brine to fully submerge tomatoes; weigh down so they stay under. 
5. Cover loosely and keep at room temp, out of sunlight, for 4–7 days.  
6. From day 4, check daily. When tangy enough, refrigerate to slow fermentation. 

Safety! 

• Make sure all the tomatoes are submerged in the brine (the water + salt) 
• The brine should stay clear to slightly cloudy, if you see mold (white, green, blue, black, or pink) discard and start fresh. 

3. The Creative Mom’s salsa!  

If there’s one jar you’ll be glad to have stashed away when winter hits, it’s this salsa. It somehow tastes garden-fresh months after canning, the perfect match for tortilla chips, breakfast burritos or even a thick slice of a crusty bread from you fav market stand.  

You can find the full ingredient list and step-by-step instructions over at The Creative Mom*,* check out her recipe right here and get ready to stock your pantry with summer in a jar. 

4. Serious Tomato Jam  

I’m slipping in a dad joke here: this tomato jam is gonna be your new jam (sorry!). If ketchup and chutney had a love child, it would be this: sweet, tangy, and a little spicy if you like it that way. It’s the condiment you didn’t know you needed until you start slathering it on… well, just about everything. 

This recipe from Serious Eats is seriously good. Check out the full ingredient list and step-by-step guide here!

5. Tomato Ice Cream 

Okay, I haven’t tried this one yet, so I’m not entirely sure what to expect, but Louise has! And she swears it’s perfect for a hot summer lunch. According to her, it even eliminates the need for mayonnaise, so you could say I’m intrigued. If you give it a go, let us know. We’d love to hear your opinion! I can imagine it being the perfect avant-garde twist when friends or family come over and you want to impress them with something a little bougie. Louise has the full recipe written up over here, so definitely check out her website. 

6. Tomato Shrub 

I didn’t really know what a shrub was, so I had to do a quick Google. Turns out, the term likely comes from the Arabic word sharāb, meaning “to drink.” In recipe terms, a shrub is a type of drinking vinegar: a tangy-sweet syrup made by combining: 

• Equal parts sugar and vinegar 
• Fruit or vegetables (like tomatoes!) 
• Optional spices or herbs for extra complexity 

While traditional shrubs often star berries or citrus, the tomato shrub is a modern, savory twist. It pairs the umami richness of ripe tomatoes with the bright acidity of vinegar, resulting in a drink that’s: 

• Perfect in cocktails (think Bloody Mary with a twist) 
• Refreshing as a mocktail with sparkling water 
• A bold base for culinary experiments 

The version featured on Nourish & Gather uses fresh tomatoes, sugar, and vinegar and cleverly turns the leftover solids into tomato jam (another recipe from this list!). 

Check out the full recipe and step-by-step instructions over at** Nourish & Gather!**

That’s the list for now, but there’s so much more out there. Many of these recipes are perfect as a base for your own kitchen experiments, so try, tweak, and make them your own. Before you know it, tomato season will be over and you’ll be wishing you had The Creative Mom’s Salsa tucked away in your cupboard for cozy movie nights, or a jar of pickled tomatoes ready to top your morning toast. 

Explore, play, and let your tastebuds be surprised! 

Happy tomato season,  Sarah-Manon

‘‘Nuchter’’

I grew up in a small village in the Netherlands, where we have a particular word to describe our outlook on life: ‘’nuchter’’. It roughly translates to “sober” in English, not in the sense of avoiding alcohol, but as a kind of no-nonsense attitude. We tend to see the world in a straightforward way. Things aren’t that deep. Or at least, we don’t talk about them like they are.

But gardening changed that for me. It cracked open that nuchtere view and let something softer in, more curious, more connected. I would now describe myself as a little bit spiritual or, as we say in Dutch, ‘‘zweverig’’. A word that’s hard to translate, but implies something like floating, dreaming, moving through the world with wonder.

Gardening opens your eyes to the life unfolding all around you. In my case, it opened my heart, too. To believe in something more than what’s just on the surface.

One of the things I’ve become more aware of is how a season turns. Not in big, dramatic gestures, but through a series of quiet, steady signals. August is that moment. The garden doesn’t shout about it, but if you pay attention, it tells you everything you need to know.

1. The moment between fullness and fade

The air feels warm and heavy in the mountains. It’s filled with the humming of bees, the buzz of flies, and the occasional rustle of dry leaves. The sun hangs lower now, but still burns hot. The soil is warm beneath my hands. Everything feels ripe, slightly overripe even. Many of my tomatoes split overnight, and the plants feel a little exhausted. My flowers are rich but dimming, like the fabric of my favourite sleeping shirt washed too many times. 

It’s in these days, when the heat has settled into the soil and the light has softened ever so slightly, that I notice the change. Not dramatic, but definite. A turning point.

Gardener’s Tip:

This is a great time to slow down your watering routine, but watch for signs of heat stress. Water early in the morning or late in the evening, and deeply rather than often. Shade sensitive crops with row cover or companion plants if needed. 

2. Signs of change

The first to go are the lettuces, their leaves stretching upwards in a final, bitter sprint to seed. The basil bolts in the same week, and seed heads form where bright petals once stood.

The fragrance of the garden deepens, less green now, more dry and mineral. If that makes sense. The first apples have fallen and their skins are turning into warm shades of red, gold and green. Pears, too, are firm but fragrant, promising sweetness soon. It’s no longer about growth, it’s about ripening.

Gardener’s Tip:

This is the ideal time to assess your garden: what thrived, what struggled. Take notes or photos. Harvest anything nearing its peak before it passes. Watch for self-seeding plants and decide if you want to let them spread.

3. The art of letting go

Seed-saving has become a quiet ritual for me. If you’re someone who enjoys ASMR videos, you’ll probably love this process too. There’s something almost sacred in plucking dried pods from spent pea plants, in gently cracking open calendula heads, and tucking their seeds into envelopes. I label each one, not just with the name and date, but often with a little note: ‘grew well near the tomatoes’ or ‘best bloom after early rain.’ Something personal. 

And then comes the clearing. The compost pile grows quickly now. 

Gardener’s Tip:

Start saving seeds from open-pollinated (non-hybrid) plants like beans, calendula, dill, or poppies. Let them dry fully before storing in paper envelopes. Compost what’s no longer producing, and refresh tired beds with compost or mulch.

Check-out our seed saving 101 guide!

4. Quiet Survivors and Lingering Life

Not everything fades. Some plants thrive in this in-between time. The thyme, the oregano, the sage, they’re just there: steady, fragrant and resilient. The sunflowers are wild and ragged now, their heads bent heavy with seed, but still they stand. The squash vines sprawl with full determination, claiming space wherever they can find it. 

Gardener’s Tip:

Keep harvesting herbs and tomatoes regularly to encourage further growth. Let sunflowers and some annuals dry out fully, they’ll feed the birds or provide seed. Cut back overgrown herbs lightly to prevent woodiness.

5. Looking Ahead 

Even as things wind down, there’s work to be done. I’ve started tucking in greens for fall like arugula, chard and kale. The garlic bed is ready, waiting for cloves that won’t show themselves until next spring. I scatter cover crops (phacelia, clover) to feed the soil through the cold.

Gardener’s Tip:

• Sow cool-season crops now: check out this guide for more depth on cool-season crops.
• Use covercrops like buckwheat or clover to suppress weeds and feed the soil.
• If you’re not planting, mulch your beds to retain moisture and prevent erosion!

6. A moment to be still

I know that in the depths of winter, I’ll be craving these summer nights. So, I try to be here for them now.

Sometimes I think this is the whole lesson: to notice. To not rush to fix things, or finish all the other stuff, just to be with it. I know there’s always a long list of things to do, but the garden also invites you to pause. You don’t have to be productive every second.

Take in the golden light at the end of the day. Listen to the humming. Breathe in the scent of sun-warmed soil and fading blooms. Enjoy this moment before the fall. Before the turning.

Gardener’s Tip:

Build in time to observe, journal, or sketch your garden. These quiet moments often offer the most insight, not just into your garden, but into your relationship with it.

Thank you for staying with me and reading all the way to the end.

Wishing you happy gardening,

and many small wonders along the way.

Tiny Tomatoes

I planted my tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, and more. Things were going well. Then we got another unseasonable blast of heat, and some of the flowers got shriveled. That has impacted my production. Usually by the end of July, my tomato plants are loaded with ripening fruit. This year, not so much. It’s August, and I do not have the amount I expected. I do admit, I could have kept a better feeding schedule. But most years, I have volunteer tomato plants that I never pay attention to, and they do awesome. I do not have any volunteer plants at all this year!

Calendula Tries to Takeover

Calendula flowers continue to pop up everywhere, and I continue to pull them out. I have let a dozen or more survive because I like to have a lot of dried flowers for the winter.

Horseradish

One plant doing good this summer is horseradish. It’s supposed to be easy to take care of and often spreads vigorously, but I’ve never actually successfully grown it for some reason. So I’m happy to see it’s still alive. It looks a little rough and I think some bugs have gotten to it, but it’s still growing. I can’t wait to harvest some! I planted it in a raised garden bed so it can’t get too out of control.

Beginner Beekeeper

For some reason, I added to my list of things to take care of and decided to try my hand at beekeeping! I got two colonies this spring, and they have grown very fast. They have been hard at work pollinating, and they especially loved my lavender! I don’t think I’ll get any honey this season as they are growing their colony and need to keep their honey for themselves this winter. It also seems everything has bloomed early this season due to the hot weather, and the bees have been trying hard to find available nectar sources this late in the summer.

Speaking of Wildlife

I’ve been actively trying to invite more wildlife into my garden lately by doing some of the things mentioned in this post that I put together. I have a lot of birds that help keep the bug population down. Ladybugs are all over my dill plants this summer, helping to control the aphids. My birdhouses have been at full capacity with the next generation hatching along. One animal I’m not too thrilled to welcome is a gopher. It’s been pushing around some of my plants. I haven’t done anything to control it because it hasn’t been too bothersome. But I’m hoping he packs up and moves along soon. I am guessing that won’t be the case though. I was delighted to see a family of skunks in my field but then remembered that skunks love honey and will break into hives. Luckily, it seems they were just passing through and they haven’t caused any trouble.

Looking Forward

Going into fall, I’ve been clearing out some old spring plants and planting a few fall crops like carrots and lettuce. My fall crops never tend to do that well; they tend to be small plants by the time the frost arrives. Some things I overwinter, like carrots and kale.

I can’t believe summer is almost over, and I’m trying to savor every day. I’m already thinking about next gardening season and what I can do to improve my garden. My family and I have been travelling a lot this summer, and my garden has suffered a bit. I will work on ways to make my garden more self-sufficient for next year, like adding a lot more mulch this fall. It won’t be long before I’m harvesting some herbal roots here. I’ll share how you harvest roots from the garden this fall!

Thanks for following along with my garden journal.

It also made me think more deeply about what nourishes me. And if there’s one nutrient the world seems fixated on right now, it’s protein. Every other product at the supermarket screams “high-protein” or “protein-packed”, gym culture has practically rebranded it as a religion, and new research keeps surfacing about how essential it is for our health.  

This blog isn’t here to shame your protein powders or tell you to ditch your favorite snack bars, do what feels right for your body. But if you have access to a garden and want to add something amazing to both your nutrition and your soil, keep reading. 

Firstly, What is Protein?  

Let’s break it down. Protein is one of the three macronutrients your body needs in large amounts (the others being carbs and fats). It’s made up of building blocks called amino acids and these little molecules are what your body uses to: 

• Build and repair muscle, tissue, and skin 
• Produce enzymes and hormones 
• Power your immune system 
• Keep every single cell functioning properly 

So yeah, kind of a big deal! No wonder it’s talked about so much lately.  

Your body needs 20 different amino acids to function properly. It can make most of them on its own, but 9 are “essential”, meaning you have to get them through food. Animal proteins (like meat, eggs, and dairy) contain all 9 in one go, which is why they’re called complete proteins. Most plant-based sources don’t have the full set on their own, but that’s not a problem. Your body can combine amino acids from different plant foods throughout the day to get everything it needs. By eating a variety of beans, grains, nuts, and seeds, you can meet your protein needs fully from plants. In doing so, you’re not just nourishing your body: you’re also being gentler on the earth, lighter on the soil, and kinder to animals along the way. 

Disclaimer: this is supported by the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, which confirms that well-planned plant-based diets provide all the protein your body needs, at every life stage. 

What Counts as Protein in the Garden? 

When we talk about protein, we’re usually thinking beans (and beans are stars) but they’re not alone. Protein in plants comes from a whole cast of characters: 

• Legumes like peas, chickpeas, and lentils. They are also nitrogen fixation plants!  
• Seeds & grains like quinoa, amaranth, and peanuts 
• Nuts (if you’ve got the space!) 
• Leafy greens that chip in smaller amounts 

Some have complete proteins, others don’t but together they build a well-rounded cast for your diet.  

What to Grow, Where: Protein Crops by Climate Zone 

Whether you’re gardening in chilly Maine or sunbaked Arizona, there’s a protein-rich plant waiting to thrive in your zone. 

Cooler climates (USDA Zones 3–5)  

• Lentils – Hardy, drought-tolerant, and nutrient-dense. A great early-season crop in northern zones. 
• Fava Beans – One of the most cold-hardy legumes, with a rich, meaty flavor. Best planted in early spring or fall. 
• Quinoa – A complete protein and gluten-free seed often treated like a grain. Grows well in cooler, drier climates. Short-season varieties like Cherry Vanilla are ideal for Zones 4–5. 
• Kale & Spinach – While not high-protein (about 3g per cooked cup), they add valuable nutrients and support overall protein intake. 
• Peas – Cool-weather champs. Snap, snow, or shelling varieties are easy to grow

Temperate climates (USDA Zones 6–8) 

• Soybeans (Edamame) – Thrive in warm summers and are rich in complete protein (~17g per cooked cup). Harvest young for edamame. 

• Chickpeas (Garbanzo Beans) – Prefer hot, dry summers and well-drained soil. Protein-rich (~15g per cooked cup) and good for small-scale growers. 

• Runner Beans – Heat-tolerant, vining, and beautiful. High yields and moderate protein (~13g per cooked cup). 

• Sunflower Seeds – Grown for seeds, not the flower! ~6g of protein per ¼ cup shelled seeds. Full sun and space to grow tall. 

• Amaranth – Both the leaves (protein-rich greens) and seeds (complete protein) are edible. Adaptable and ornamental. 

  

Warm climates (USDA Zones 9–11) 

• Pigeon Peas – Perennial in the tropics, annual in mild climates. Popular in Caribbean, African, and Indian cooking. Great nitrogen fixer. 
• Moringa – Fast-growing tree with edible leaves high in protein (~2–3g per 100g fresh). Also rich in vitamins and minerals. 
• Peanuts – Technically a legume, not a nut! Grows well in sandy, well-drained soil. ~25g protein per cup (roasted). 
• Sesame – Grown for its oil-rich, high-protein seeds (~5g per tablespoon). Needs a long, hot growing season. 
• Cowpeas (Black-eyed peas) – Extremely drought-tolerant and thrive in heat. ~13g protein per cooked cup. 

Backyard Protein Hacks 

• Go vertical: Beans and peas love to climb. Save space with trellises or garden arches. 
• Mix it up: Try the Three Sisters method. Corn, beans, and squash grown together to support each other. 
• Let it dry: For storage crops like lentils or chickpeas, leave pods to dry on the plant before harvesting. 
• Save seeds: Dry beans and grains store well all year and can be replanted. 

Bonus fact: Many legumes, including soybeans, chickpeas, peas, lentils, and fava beans, are nitrogen-fixers. That means they work with bacteria in the soil to pull nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form plants can use. This natural fertilization reduces the need for synthetic nitrogen fertilizers, which are energy-intensive to produce and can pollute water systems!  

Start small, experiment wildly, and celebrate the fact that your dinner might start from a single sprout. 

And hey, if you name your soybean plant “Beanoncé,” we fully support that.

It’s peak harvest season, folks! If you’ve ever watched RedLeaf Ranch on YouTube, you can probably hear him yelling it already: “ABUNDANCE!”

Because that’s exactly what many of us are experiencing in our gardens right now. The beds are bursting with produce and while it’s a blessing, it can also be a bit… overwhelming. There’s only so much we can eat fresh. Last year, this was my spicy pepper harvest and yes, even my biceps were feeling a little overwhelmed!

Now, picture yourself as a farmer hundreds of years ago. You’ve just harvested a mountain of pepper but there’s no fridge, no freezer, and winter is coming. What do you do?

You slice the peppers, mix them with some salt, and pack them tightly into a jar. Then, something begins to happen. Over the next few days or weeks, that simple mix transforms: preserving the food and turning it into something tangy, nourishing, and full of flavor that lasts well into the cold months.

That, my friends, is the ancient, funky, and fabulous method known as: lacto-fermentation. In this piece, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know. It’s going to be a long one, so get cozy and buckle up!

What Is Lacto-Fermentation, Anyway?

Long before refrigerators, pressure canners, or supermarket jars lined with preservatives, people needed ways to keep their food from spoiling, especially during and after harvest season. One of the most brilliant solutions they discovered, perhaps even by accident, was lacto-fermentation: a natural, biological process that not only preserves food, but also transforms its flavor, texture, and nutritional value.

Lacto-fermentation is a type of fermentation driven by beneficial bacteria, especially those from the Lactobacillus family. These microbes are found naturally on the surface of vegetables, in soil, and even in our own guts.

During lacto-fermentation, Lactobacillus bacteria convert the natural sugars and starches in food into lactic acid, a compound that:

• Lowers the pH of the environment (making it more acidic)
• Inhibits spoilage by preventing the growth of harmful microbes
• Creates complex, tangy flavors
• Preserves the food for weeks or even months
• Produces probiotics, which may support gut health and immune function

Despite the name, “lacto” refers to lactic acid, not lactose. So, it’s totally dairy-free unless dairy is used as the base (like in yoghurt or cheese).

What Happens Step by Step?

At its core, it’s super simple: veggies + salt + water + time = magic.

No vinegar. No heat. Just naturally occurring good bacteria that feast on your vegetables’ sugars and transform them into tangy, probiotic powerhouses.Here’s what actually happens: 

1. Salt the veggies: You start by mixing vegetables (like cabbage, carrots, or cucumbers) with salt. This draws water out of the plant cells and helps create a brine.
2. Pack into a jar: The vegetables are pressed under their own brine in a container with as little air as possible, a low-oxygen (anaerobic) environment.
3. Bad microbes are suppressed: The salty, low-oxygen brine prevents harmful bacteria and molds from growing.
4. Good microbes thrive: Lactobacillus and its friends (like Leuconostoc and Pediococcus) love salty, oxygen-poor conditions and begin to multiply.
5. Fermentation begins: These bacteria eat the sugars in your vegetables and convert them into lactic acid and other metabolites.
6. Over time: The flavor deepens. Most ferments are ready within a few days to a few weeks, depending on the temperature, salt concentration, and type of vegetable.

Why Lacto-Fermented Foods Are So Good for You

Not to get too detailed, but lacto-fermentation doesn’t just keep food from going bad, it makes it better for your gut and easier for your body to absorb.

Some Key Benefits:

• Rich in probiotics. Supports a healthy gut microbiome, which is linked to digestion, mood, and immunity.
• Boosts your immune system. About 70–80% of your immune cells are in your gut, so a healthy gut = stronger immunity.
• Improves nutrient absorption. Fermentation breaks down phytates and other “anti-nutrients” that can block mineral absorption. This helps your body absorb more iron, zinc, calcium, and magnesium.
• Increases vitamin levels. Fermented foods often contain more B-vitamins, vitamin C, and vitamin K2, which are essential for energy, immunity, and bone health.
• Easier to digest. Fermentation begins breaking down complex carbs, fiber, and proteins, making foods gentler on the digestive system (especially helpful for sensitive guts).

A Global Tradition

Lacto-fermentation has been practiced for thousands of years, and is deeply woven into the culinary and cultural fabric of societies across the globe. Here are a few iconic examples you might already know:

Sauerkraut - Central & Eastern Europe

That tangy cabbage the farmer and his family were snacking on? That’s sauerkraut: a word that comes from the German sauer (sour) and kraut (cabbage).

For generations, sauerkraut was a winter essential in German, Polish, and Hungarian households. It wasn’t just food, it was survival. My partner is German, and his father still tells stories about how sauerkraut was a staple during the cold months of his childhood. For him it’s not only packed with vitamin C but also with lots of nostalgia. 

Kimchi - Korea

This national dish, made with fermented napa cabbage or radish, garlic, ginger, and gochugaru (Korean chili), is estimated to be over 4,000 years old. Kimchi is so central to Korean culture that it’s recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. When Korea launched its first astronaut into space in 2008, they made sure to send kimchi with him. 

Pickles - Global, but especially Eastern Europe & North America

There’s a whole world of pickles out there. The word pickle comes from the Dutch pekel, meaning brine. While many modern pickles are made with vinegar (aka “quick pickles”), traditional ones are wild and alive: fermented slowly with just salt, water, and time. These are known as:

• Kosher dills (Eastern European Jewish tradition)
• Sour pickles (New York deli-style)
• Ogórki kiszone (Polish)
• Malosolnie (Russian lightly fermented cukes)

Each culture adds its own twist: garlic, dill, oak leaves, horseradish, grape leaves,  to create flavor and crunch.

So, What Can YOU Make? 

You can lacto-ferment almost any fresh vegetable, root, or garden crop. Think garlic, carrots, radishes, beans, beets, cauliflower, green tomatoes, or cucumbers. The method is simple:

1. Chop or grate your veggies (or leave them whole if they’re small).
2. Add salt. Around 2% of the total weight of the vegetables (e.g. 20g salt per 1kg veggies). This draws out moisture and creates the right environment for good bacteria to thrive. Make sure to use non-iodized salt (like sea salt or pickling salt). Iodine and anti-caking agents in regular table salt can inhibit fermentation by slowing down the beneficial bacteria.
3. Pack tightly into a clean jar, pressing the vegetables down so they release their juices.
4. If the veggies don’t release enough liquid to fully submerge, top up with filtered water until everything is covered.
5. Weigh them down using a fermentation weight or a small clean jar, so the veggies stay submerged in the brine.
6. Cover loosely (with a lid or cloth) to let gases escape, and let ferment at room temperature (65-72°F or 18–22°C) for 5–14 days, depending on taste and ambient temperature. I have accidentally forgotten some of my ferments for quite a bit longer than that, and they turned out even better than I hoped! 
7. Once it smells sour and tastes good to you, move it to the fridge to slow fermentation and enjoy!

Note: You could also use fruit, but if you let fruit ferment too long or if wild yeast takes over, it can start to turn into alcohol (aka fruit wine). Which is fun, but not quite what you’re aiming for with lacto-fermentation!

How to Store Ferments Long-Term

Once your lacto-ferment tastes just right (tangy, sour, delicious), it’s time to slow down the fermentation to preserve it.

The basics:

• Refrigerate it: Move the jar to the fridge (or a cool cellar if you have one under 50°F or 10°C). Cold temperatures slow fermentation to almost a stop.
• Keep veggies submerged: Make sure everything stays under the brine, even in the fridge. This keeps mold away and preserves flavor.
• Use a clean utensil every time: Never dip in with fingers, this prevents contamination.

How long does it last?

• Most ferments will stay good for several months in the fridge, often even 6 months to a year, depending on:
• Salt level (more salt = longer preservation)
• Veggie type (firm veggies last longer)
• Storage temperature (colder = better)

Want to store it really long?

• Ferment in large batches, keep sealed jars in a cold cellar or fridge.
• You can also can fermented foods using water-bath canning, but note: this kills probiotics, so it’s good for flavor and shelf-life, but not for gut health.

! Safety Guidelines !

It’s incredibly important to follow safety guidelines when working on projects like these, especially if you’re just getting started.

Fermenting at home can be simple, safe, and deeply rewarding, as long as you stick to a few key rules. These help make sure your food stays healthy, delicious, and safe to enjoy. 

1. Always use clean utensils and jars to avoid contamination.
2. Make sure all vegetables stay fully submerged in the brine. Exposure to air can lead to mold.
3. A thin white film (called kahm yeast) is harmless, but fuzzy mold (green, black, or pink) is a sign to throw it out. The Fermentation Podcast has an entire piece dedicated to mold, definitely worth a read! Checking it out here!
4. If it smells rotten or off (not just sour), don’t eat it.
5. Keep ferments out of direct sunlight during the process.
6. Once opened or ready, store in the refrigerator.

Remember: If it looks, smells, or tastes truly off: trust your gut and don’t eat it. A good ferment should smell pleasantly sour and make you want to dig in!

It would make us super-duper happy to see what you’ve been fermenting!

If you feel like sharing your creations, asking questions, or just chatting about funky jars and bubbly brine, come say hi on or tag us on Facebook or Instagram @planterapp. We’d love to see what’s bubbling in your kitchen! :)

Leaf Litter

Mesquites, Palo Verdes, and Acacias all produce a lot of litter: leaves, seed pods, bark shavings, and more. It’s a lot to clean up. This year, I’ve started raking it around the trees instead, and I’ve seen a few benefits.

First, I’ve noticed less wilt on the younger trees, which are more susceptible to sun scald. They’re looking healthier and have a greener canopy.

Second, the ground is cooler beneath the litter layer by around 5 degrees Fahrenheit, which helps to alleviate heat stress.

Third, and most importantly to me, is the increase in wildlife I’ve seen. By my best estimates, there are twice as many lizards in the garden this year now that there are more places to hide during the day. This is excellent as they help to keep down small garden bugs and spiders. Lizards are also fun to watch; they scamper across the dirt incredibly quickly, and do ‘push-ups’ to mark their territory. I’ve also seen a lot more moths this year, and a couple more butterflies.

Flowers

Because Tucson has mild winters, many annuals can be grown as perennials. I took advantage of some heavily discounted vinca last August, and while they struggled through the end of last year’s summer, they have done exceptionally well this year. 

I’ve also introduced some more native flowers: salvia, beebalm, coreopsis, and goldenrod. They also struggled a bit this year, but with some supplemental watering and some shade screens, they’ve settled in and should grow much better next year.

Another nice success has been with a wisteria plant. It’s grown around 2ft this year so far, and I’m hoping I’ll see some blooms before the year is through. It’s being grown to eventually wind around a pergola area to provide natural shade, though that’s a few years away.

Veg

I knew I’d be travelling a lot this year, so I kept it simple. I had great success with tomatoes this year, which grew wonderfully fast because of the warm spring weather. Jalapenos were another hit success, though sadly, it was simply too hot for the bell peppers, which regularly wilted, despite continued efforts to save them.

Cactus

Take a cutting from a cactus, dry it out for a couple of days, and stick it in the ground, and it’ll grow! I did just that this year, with a success rate of around 75%. I’m very happy with that. I’ve also transplanted a couple of dozen agave pups, which almost all survived. The dry winter and spring were not very helpful, so many of the cacti wilted back.

Seedlings

This year, I also attempted to grow Loofah. I started with 16 seeds, which I grew in two stages. The first 8 I planted directly outside in my newly dug and amended sunken garden bed in mid-spring. These were all devoured by the cardinals. 

I started the next batch inside to great success using the damp paper towel method. Once they were in pots and had grown to around an inch tall, I began hardening them off so I could keep them in pots outside, as the weather was quickly becoming blisteringly hot.

All but one were snaffled while I was at work. The remaining one now lives inside and is doing very well. 

I also tried to grow amaranth, and they all suffered the same fate as the loofah. 

I’m also growing some native grasses and some Jewels of Opar from seed, both of which are very healthy and will be planted outside next year, or mid-Fall if they are ready.

Wrapping Up

It’s been a fun yet challenging growing year so far. With summer halfway through, I’m starting to think about my September plantings that’ll grow in time before the light frosts of December. Not all of my plants made it, but the wildlife has had a field day, and that’s good enough for me.

Benefits of Wildlife in the Garden

A garden with a diverse population of insects, birds, and even small mammals indicates healthy soil and a good ecosystem. If you can draw birds into your garden, they can help keep the pesky bug population in control. The more pollinators you attract, the better the pollination of your crops. Small mammals can benefit the garden by aerating the soil, even if we don’t always consider that to be helpful. Earthworms help break down dead plants and contribute to the soil’s nutrient level. Let’s look at how you can turn your garden into a thriving wildlife community.

Water

All living things depend on water to survive in some form. Adding a water feature is a sure way to show wildlife that your garden is a great place to live. It could be something as small as a bee water station or a bird bath. A pond can support many beneficial life forms if you have the space. Dragonflies depend mainly on water and can help the garden in many ways; they eat flies, mosquitoes, and other bothersome bugs.

Birds rely on shallow sources of water to drink and keep themselves clean. Birds can also significantly reduce the insect population. Add a small bird bath to keep your feathered friends around for the bug buffet.

Bees are great for gardens as they help pollinate plants. Water is crucial for bees’ health when the weather gets hot. Honeybees use water to thin nectar for honey-making and to cool down their hive. Bees can drown in deep water sources. You can buy bee-safe drinking stations or make your own by placing marbles or rocks in a shallow dish and adding water. The bees can land on the rocks or marbles and dip to get water. Bee water dishes can dry up fast, so refill them daily.

If you can manage a pond, you can host a wide variety of beneficial wildlife. Frogs, toads, newts, dragonflies, and fish can all help your garden’s ecosystem.

Shelter

Bird houses offer birds a safe place to nest in the spring and summer months. If you have the space, hedges are also great places for birds to nest. Shrubs and trees like privet, hawthorn, and holly make great nesting spots. Long grasses are also great for providing shelter to birds, insects, and small mammals. Keep an area of your lawn shaggy and unmowed, or opt for a row of beautiful ornamental grasses.

Bats conjure up spooky feelings in some people, but there’s no reason to be afraid of these awesome creatures. One bat can eat thousands of bugs in one night. DIY tutorials exist on making a simple bat house, or you can purchase one assembled. Bat houses should be around 20 feet off the ground.

“Bug hotels” give beneficial bugs shelter to live and nest. You can buy cute bug hotels or make one yourself. They can be as simple as a pile of rotting logs, too. You can learn more about the benefits of leaving leaves, logs, and other materials in the garden over the winter here.

A lot of garden centers sell mason bee houses, and you can buy the mason bees in the spring, too. Mason bees provide early pollination.

Food

Food is probably the main reason wildlife sticks around your garden; if there isn’t any food, there isn’t any reason to stay. If you want to keep birds in your yard throughout the fall and winter, consider leaving spent blooms of flowers so there will be seedheads for them to snack on. Some great options are echinacea, sunflowers, asters, and zinnia. Teasel is a common plant considered a weed to most, but its dried seedheads offer food well into the winter.

Hedgehog Habitats

If you are lucky enough to be in an area of the world with hedgehogs ( I wish), consider helping them by making your yard a hedgehog haven. Hedgehogs are night hunters and can keep your slug and snail population down. Fallen logs and protected hedges make great hedgehog homes. You can also construct or buy adorable little houses. If you have a pond, ensure that they have safe water access by providing a gradual entry or a ramp. Hedgehogs can roam long distances (by their standard), so creating a path or “hedgehog highway” can be helpful. Create spaces in the fencing so they can get around if you have a garden on the small side.

Sharing Space with our Wildlife Friends

Designing a wildlife garden is a rewarding project that benefits both the garden and the gardener. By adding in elements such as water sources, shelters, and food options, you can attract a diverse range of wildlife, enhancing your garden’s health and happiness. The Planter App can help you create the wildlife garden of your dreams!

It’s mid-July, and the breeze here in the mountains feels like a warm hug. Most folks are busy harvesting courgettes the size of baguettes and, no doubt, cursing their once-again runaway mint. I’m standing in my garden with a fresh cup of (yes, mint) tea and a question: What do I want to eat in the fall?

Because while summer is in full swing, this is actually the secret season to sow again. Gardening either keeps you fully in the moment or shoots your brain a few months into the future. That’s part of the deal, I guess. Especially up here at 900 meters altitude (zone 6-ish), where autumn comes with a whisper… and then a frost. No time in between.

So I thought I’d take you along. Let’s chat about what you can still plant now, and which crops are worth your time to make sure there’s still some harvest joy in the fall.

Let’s Talk About Frost, Baby

As we tiptoe toward fall, it’s a great time to start plotting your autumn garden. For an overview of the types of crops that are generally best suited for a fall garden, and how Planter can help you to double check the timing, have a read of the article: Don’t Forget Your Fall Garden.

One of my favorite newer(ish) Planter features? In the settings tab, Planter shows a countdown to your first expected fall frost, like a tiny ticking clock for gardeners. Super useful for figuring out what you can still grow in time… and also mildly panic-inducing (in the best way). Here’s mine:

My Fall Planting Picks

Ideally, I want to plant everything, have maximum diversity, and eat 23 different crunchy things in my salad bowls. But sometimes, less really is more. Expanding gradually keeps gardening fun and avoids unnecessary stress on both your soil and your (possibly receding) hairline.

With the internet offering a bazillion planting guides (plus whatever gardening books you’ve got lying around), there’s no shortage of info. For this round, I’m keeping it simple and using the Planter app to guide my choices. It already knows my local frost dates, and I love that you can filter for things like frost-tolerant crops or perennials. The Growing Calendar shows which crops you can still plant, and how much time you’ve got left to do it.

So, without further rambling… 

Here are some of the fast-growing cool-season crops I’ve chosen for an abundant fall harvest in the mountains!

1. Mâche (Lamb’s Lettuce). The absolute fall classic in Germany. To not plant it? Unthinkable.

2. Kohlrabi (early varieties). Great raw or marinated as veggie “kebab.”

3. Spinach. Always good. Especially the cold-hardy types.

4. Cilantro. Yes, even now! It handles light frost just fine.

5. Kale. Might be a bit late, but I’m giving it a go for baby leaves (and planning a perennial kale tree next year!).

6. Mustard greens. Spicy when young, flavorful when cooked.

7. Carrots. Early varieties still make it if you plant now.

8. Radishes. Because color + crunch = salad joy.

9. Bok Choy. Quick to grow, great for stir-fries.

10. Wasabi Arugula. Want to keep it mild? Use young baby leaves. Want it spicier? Let the leaves get bigger or use the flower buds, they’re often even punchier.

A few slow-burners I’m adding anyway.  These won’t feed me this year, but they’re future-you gold:

• Black salsify (Scorzonera ‘Duplex’). Beautiful, weird, delicious root native to Europe.
• Garlic. Usually planted in mid-to-late October, but I might prep beds now and sneak in a little green garlic (early-harvested cloves).
• Chives. Super hardy, great for pollinators, and the purple flowers are edible too.
• Echinacea (Coneflower). Slow to establish, but gorgeous and medicinal.
• Rhubarb. If you’re feeling bold and patient (it’s worth it). 

What to Keep in Mind When Planting Now

1. Choose fast-growing or frost-tolerant crops Look for varieties that mature in 60 days or less, or that can handle light frost.
2. Sow directly in the soil Depending on where you live, it might too late for longer-growing transplants unless you’ve already got them ready. To be safe, I’m going with direct sowing only.
3. Germination can be tricky in summer heat Sow in the evening, water well, and consider adding light shade over freshly seeded areas to keep the soil cool.
4. Keep watering consistent Seeds and young plants need steady moisture, especially during warm July days.
5. Don’t overdo it It’s easy to get excited (hello, seed hoarders), but keep it simple and realistic to avoid overwhelm. Think: joy, not stress.

So there you have it, one last hurrah for the garden before the frost moves in.

Go sow something. Go be smug in October. You’ve got this.

Let me explain. 

As you prepare for a season of abundance, you’ve been nurturing your zucchini plants for weeks. The vines are sprawling, the leaves are lush, and then: boom, flowers! You wait. And wait. But the flowers come and go. They bloom, wither, and drop away. Still no baby zucchinis in sight. What. Is. Going. On? 

Welcome to the surprisingly steamy world of cucurbit reproduction. With around 965 species, the cucurbit family (also known as the gourd family) includes some of the most popular garden crops: zucchinis, pumpkins, melons, cucumbers, and more. Plants, it turns out, have their own version of a love story. And understanding how that story unfolds can make all the difference. In this blog, we’ll explore how cucurbits flirt, attract, and (with a little help) produce fruit, so you can help your garden grow into a truly fruitful affair. 

Meet the cucurbits  

Cucurbits are what’s known as monoecious (Greek for ‘‘one house’’). Meaning both male and female flowers grow on the same plant. Technically self-sufficient, they still need help getting pollen from one flower to another. Like from a native squash bee or the occasional butterfly.  

So, how do you tell who’s who in this shared floral household? 

• Female flowers have a small, immature (baby) fruit at the base and a stigma, which receives pollen. Depending on the species, it may be divided into multiple lobes. 
• Male flowers have a thin stem and a single, central stamen covered in pollen. 

First to bloom: why male flowers appear early  

If your zucchini plants are blooming but not fruiting, don’t panic. Those first flowers are likely male, and yes, they’re supposed to be early. Male flowers are like pollination scouts. They show up early to test the environment, check for pollinators, and throw a pre-party before the real stars (the female flowers) make their entrance. These early bloomers don’t grow fruit, but they do carry the pollen needed when the female flowers arrive. It’s nature’s way of being cautious.  

After all, why invest in fruit if there’s no one around to help with the, ahem, fertilisation? 

Most of the time, bees and other insects do the job just fine. But in modern gardens, especially in containers, urban settings, or during poor weather, they sometimes need a little help from us. 

How to lend a human hand (literally) 

If it seems like your cucurbits’ pollination department could use a little help, that’s where you come in. Enter a process called hand-pollination: manually transferring pollen from the male flower to the female flower, mimicking what bees and other pollinators naturally do. It’s a simple, hands-on way to give nature a gentle nudge and make sure fertilisation actually happens. 

To hand-pollinate:  

(The first time I tried this, I felt a bit awkward. You’ll understand why.)  

1. Pick a male flower and gently peel back its petals to expose the stamen.  
2. Gently rub it on the center of a female flower. 
3. Alternatively, use a paintbrush or cotton swab to transfer pollen. 

That’s it! Best to do this in the morning, when flowers are fresh and receptive. It’s a simple act of floral matchmaking that can yield big results.

Embracing the weird romance of your garden  

Who knew gardening could feel so intimate? The sex lives of your veggies may seem like a quirky curiosity but understanding them can be the difference between a fruitless season and a basket overflowing with zucchini, cucumbers, and pumpkins.

So, the next time you spot those bright yellow male flowers blooming early, give them a knowing wink. They’re just warming up for the main event. 

Don’t give up! Encourage pollinators with flowering herbs, avoid insecticides, and hand-pollinate when needed. Also, ensure your plants are well-watered and fed, stress can affect flowering and fruit set. 

And if your plants need a little help finding love, well: you’re officially qualified to play pollination cupid. 

Happy matchmaking, gardener. 

But step into a wild woodland, meadow, or desert wash, and you’ll notice something different: there’s litter. Twigs, seed pods, spent blooms, and fallen leaves carpet the ground. This mess isn’t neglect—it’s nature’s way of building resilience.

Leaving organic litter in your garden—what we might normally clean up—supports essential soil organisms, encourages natural pest control, and promotes long-term fertility. Below, we’ll explore why letting things lie can be one of the best choices for your plants, pollinators, and the planet, and I’ll show you some of the things I’m doing in my garden.

Decaying Wood

If you have trees or shrubs in your garden, chances are you prune them once a year or so. Instead of removing all the cut branches, consider leaving some of those stems—or even a few larger limbs—on the ground or tucked into a corner of the garden. Cut them down to a size that’s manageable for you.

Decaying wood acts as a slow-release fertilizer, gradually returning valuable nutrients like carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorus to the soil. As fungi and microbes break it down, they help convert locked-up nutrients into forms that plants can use—a natural form of nutrient cycling that keeps your garden’s ecosystem self-sustaining.

As it decomposes, wood also improves soil structure by increasing porosity and helping with moisture retention. After rainfall, rotting logs and branches can hold onto water, keeping the surrounding soil damp for longer.

Just as importantly, decaying wood provides habitat. Insects, fungi, mosses, and sometimes even birds rely on it for food and shelter. These organisms are part of a vibrant underground and surface ecosystem that supports plant health and keeps your soil biologically active.

Leaf Litter

Leaves are plentiful in most gardens. Trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables, and more all have them. Over the year, some get munched by insects, many fall off, and more get trimmed. It’s easy to clear these away as you’re trimming, and with some plants like tomatoes and roses, this is the best option as you want the base of the plant to be exposed to the air, as they’re very susceptible to disease. 

Many flowers, such as hydrangeas, benefit from their leaf litter as it helps to regulate soil pH and moisture. Hostas, which are a favorite delicacy for slugs, benefit massively from leaf litter as the drier surface deters them and provides habitat for predatory beetles.

Leaf litter also decays into the soil, returning key nutrients, can be used as mulch, and is perfect for insulating plants against cold weather. 

Organic Litter for Self Seeders

I adore self-seeding annuals. Flowers like cosmos, calendula, and alyssum create a vibrant show of color. As their seeding is often sporadic, it’s beneficial to give them the best chance possible for the seeds to take. A layer of organic litter, leaves, petals, and more provides somewhere for the seeds to fall and stay sheltered. Over the winter, as the litter layer decays, it provides the nutrients and moisture for the seeds to germinate plentifully the next year.

Leaving Flower Heads

It’s more than a little tempting to snip off dead flowers as soon as they’re done to maintain a tidy garden bed (I’m often quick to do this). However, if there is a time not to do it, it’s fall. 

As winter approaches, animals of all kinds are looking for nourishment, and flower heads are great for birds, insects, and even small mice. Leaving them for a few days gives nature the chance to use them. You might also cut them down and leave them to decay around where they grew, or leave them standing over the winter and cut them down in the spring. Frosty stems can look quite beautiful. 

Some flowers, such as bee balm, are excellent overwintering spots for native solitary bees, and leaving leaf litter can provide additional warmth. 

Keeping the Litter Tidy

Leaving organic litter in your garden doesn’t mean it has to look messy. You can still create a beautiful, neat, and tended-to garden while implementing some of these strategies.

Shapes are good visual breakers. Raking leaf litter into piles around shrubs, or into small ‘compost areas’ provides definition. You might also mix in your garden litter with store-bought bark mulch for a neater look.

Heavier, denser plants such as Dahlias will hide leaf litter better than open plants such as Rudbeckia, so you can tailor this to suit your garden. 

When and How to Clean Up (if needed)

While leaving organic matter in the garden is often beneficial, there are times when a bit of cleanup is necessary to maintain plant health and balance. The key is knowing when you’re helping the ecosystem—and when you’re unintentionally hindering it.

1. To Reduce Disease Pressure Some plants, like tomatoes, roses, and peonies, are especially prone to fungal diseases and benefit from a tidier base. Removing diseased foliage, spent flowers, or stems can prevent the spread of pathogens from year to year. Always discard infected material—don’t compost it unless your compost gets hot enough to kill pathogens (many home piles don’t).

2. After Pest Infestations If you’ve had a heavy infestation of aphids, caterpillars, or beetles, it can be helpful to clear away some of the affected plant matter. This reduces the number of overwintering sites and breaks the pest’s lifecycle. You don’t need to strip the bed bare, but a thoughtful tidy-up around troubled plants can set the stage for a better spring.

3. To Prep Annual Beds When rotating crops or replanting flower beds, removing the bulk of spent annuals may be helpful, especially if you’re planting seeds or young transplants that need light and space. In this case, consider chopping old stems and layering them over other areas of the garden instead of hauling everything to the bin. That way, you’re still recycling the nutrients.

4. To Make Room for Spring Growth Early spring is one of the best times to gently clear paths, remove mats of soggy leaves from the crowns of perennials, and thin out overgrown mulch. This allows emerging shoots to develop while still retaining the protective benefits of litter, particularly water retention and frost protection, elsewhere.

5. Mind the Seasons
Fall (autumn) is often the time to let things lie. Insects lay eggs in dead stems, frogs tuck into leaf piles, and beneficial beetles nest beneath bark. Winter landscapes don’t need to be bare—they can be layered, textured, and alive with sheltering creatures.

Guiding Principle: Think mosaic, not monoculture. You don’t have to leave everything or clean up everything. A mix of tidy and wild spaces—what some call “messy gardening with intent”—can offer the best of both worlds: healthy plants and thriving wildlife.

A Look at What I’m Doing

My current yard has a lot of trees. The bloom season in Arizona is plentiful, and they all fall to the ground quickly when the summer heat comes in. I’ve raked this detritus into a ring around the trees, making sure the root flare is left exposed to the air around the trunk, which will help the soil hold water and return nutrients. 

It’s been hot the past few years, so some cacti are struggling. Cacti don’t love damp soil, so I’m using leaves to cover the surface around them to lower the soil temperatures. Leaves dry out quickly here after rain, so this will prevent rot and decay from affecting the cacti.

Where I work has numerous ornamental oleanders. Instead of removing the cut leaves after I shape them, I sweep them out of sight under the shrubs. They’ve been growing more prolifically than ever now that the soil holds moisture better, and the number of lizards that call them home has increased, who in turn snack on the bugs

Final Thoughts: Let a Little Litter Lie

Gardens don’t need to be pristine to be beautiful—or thriving. In fact, by letting a little organic litter remain, you’re doing far more than saving yourself a cleanup. You’re building soil health, conserving moisture, cycling nutrients, and offering habitat to countless small but essential creatures.

Whether it’s a ring of leaves beneath a tree, a log tucked into a shady corner, or flower heads left standing through winter, these small choices invite life back into the garden. They make your space more resilient, more dynamic, and more deeply connected to the natural world.

So the next time you’re tempted to tidy, ask: could this “mess” be doing some good? Odds are, it already is.

We moved in the dead of winter, which in Ontario, Canada presents unique obstacles. For example, some of our furniture had to live in the garage until the snow drifts melted down enough to carry it in the (wider) back door! As the wind howled and snow fell outside, we hunkered down inside working, planning, and dreaming of all the things we would grow in the garden come spring.

Starting a market garden the first year after moving is admittedly ambitious (or is that a nice way of putting it?) but after a lengthy property search we didn’t want to waste any time getting going. Ideally we would have had the fall to start preparing beds so everything would be more or less ready for planting come spring, but we worked with the time we had. In late February I sowed the first seeds indoors in our shop- onions and parsley to start. Starting seeds indoors in the winter is always exciting. It’s a reminder that sunshine, warmth, and greenery is coming back again. This time though it was extra meaningful as we were taking one of the first steps towards our goal of starting a market garden.

I tended the little seeds with extra care, trying to optimize the growing medium, heat, and light to ensure their success. While gardening as a job is a labor of love, it comes with a degree of expectation that is different from gardening as a hobby. The joys of gardening are exponentially increased- watching seedlings emerge, seeing plants growing healthily, enjoying beautiful sunny days with birds singing outside, and eating fresh produce that you grew yourself- but there are also fears that creep in. What if it’s a flop? What if we don’t sell much, or don’t have much to sell?

All I could do was push the worries aside and continue on. I started sowing the peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, and tomatillos indoors, but by this point I was starting to have some challenges with the seed starting operation. The earliest planted seedlings were becoming a bit sickly. I did have to change a few things in my seed starting process as part of ‘scaling up’, so I figured it was a matter of dialing in the heat, water, and nutrients. I tweaked and adjusted, and took solace that the younger seedlings were still looking OK.

It was relatively late in spring by the time we were able to get into the field to start planting. Significant snowfall, combined with an unusually cold and wet spring, put us several weeks behind schedule. We didn’t have tarps or hoop houses in place to help the ground dry out and warm up faster, so we were bound to mother nature’s schedule. When we finally got into the field it felt like a huge milestone- getting to work the land as we had so eagerly anticipated. We sowed cool-season favorites like peas, carrots, spinach, lettuce, and arugula, ironically now hoping that the warm weather wouldn’t come too quickly and finish them off prematurely.

Not long after planting we did get an unusual spring heatwave- with daytime highs up to 75-85°F (25-30°C) and about a week with no rain. It was time to get watering, so I went to look for where to turn on the outside spigot. After following a maze of snaking pipes I found the valve that led outdoors, but I also noticed a larger pipe heading out in the general direction of the shop- and saw that that pipe was connected to the water softener outflow. For anyone unfamiliar, most residential water softeners work by adding salt to the water to bind other minerals. I’d been giving my seedlings salt water! It never crossed my mind that the shop water- over 100’ away from the house and with no appliances- would have any reason to be softened. While I was dismayed to learn I’d been slowly salting my seedlings, it felt like an absolute stroke of luck to have caught it at this point. While there were losses in the earlier seeded crops (RIP onions), the crops seeded later recovered with TLC and turned into healthy transplants.

Around this time the garden outside was starting to take off as the cooler spring temps continued on, save the one hot week. During the mini heatwave, I’d fretted and fussed over the peas, the spinach, and especially the carrots. I was still getting familiar with the sandy loam soil and how often it needed watering, especially with a drying wind coming off the lake nearby. After that we had nearly a week of glorious, continuous, gentle rain which, although it put a damper on planting, provided relief from watering. The watering efforts were not in vain though as the carrots finally germinated (hooray!), the spinach poked through, and the peas tripled in size.

We’ve finally reached a point in the season where it feels like the garden is coming together. More and more of the field has been turned into usable growing space, the previously planted crops are starting to flourish, and the overall picture is becoming less of a blurry vision and more of a reality. There will certainly be more challenges to come- I’m not-so-eagerly waiting to see what kind of pest and disease pressure we have- but no matter what happens we’ll just keep planting, just keep watering, and just keep weeding!

Many plants — beans, tomatoes, peas, and more — grow best with support. Trellises and supports can add up in cost, and it’s not always easy to find the right one. Here we’ll run through some tips and ideas for using woody plant cuttings (and plants themselves) as growing supports.

If you don’t have any trees or shrubs in your garden, consider asking a neighbour or friend. Don’t cut back any plants without permission. Additionally, bamboo garden canes can be bought from most hardware stores, and work well too.

Living Trellis vs Woody Cuttings

Living trellises are a clever and space-saving way to grow more vertically. This technique is a form of companion planting, where one plant is a structural aid to another. Here are a few common and effective pairings:

• Pole beans climbing up sunflowers or corn
• Malabar spinach using cane raspberries for support
• Garden peas twining up amaranth

These pairings won’t compete, as long as the support plant is mature enough when the climber starts growing in earnest. Careful timing is key — planting schedules should be adjusted so both plants thrive.

While live plant pairings offer dynamic, seasonal support, woody cuttings provide a reusable and customizable alternative. They also offer a lot of flexibility for gardeners. Unlike live plants, they can be arranged however you like, trimmed to shape, and won’t be affected by seasonal die-back, pests, or unexpected weather.

As a rule of thumb, cuttings should be at least pencil-thick and sturdier for heavier climbers like indeterminate tomatoes or cucumbers.

As we walk through this article, we’ll dive into more specifics for each method.

How to Make the Most of Live Supports

To use a live support successfully, plant your support crop first — ideally 2 to 3 weeks before the climber. For example, sow corn or sunflowers early so they’ve established strong stems by the time beans begin to climb. Choose upright, sturdy varieties (e.g., sunflowers with thick stalks or corn types known for their height). Be mindful of spacing: give each plant enough room to avoid overcrowding, especially since both will need sunlight and root space.

Gently guide young vines toward the support as they grow, using twine if needed. Avoid pulling or forcing stems; most climbers will naturally twine once they find a vertical surface.

Best Plants for Trellis Cuttings

Some plants stand out for their strength and flexibility:

• Willow – One of the best. Fast-growing, bendable, and easy to weave. Willow can even be planted live to root into the soil and form a living trellis — just be sure to keep it pruned to prevent overgrowth.
• Dogwood – Also very flexible and great for weaving structures like cages or lattices.
• Other tree branches – Many hardwood tree prunings are suitable, as long as they’re healthy and structurally sound.

Before using any cuttings, ask:

• Is it diseased or pest-damaged?
• Is it too brittle or prone to snapping?
• Do I want this to root, or stay inert? (Some cuttings might sprout if planted.)

When to Harvest and How Long They Last

Woody cuttings are best harvested in late winter or early spring, when many trees and shrubs are dormant. This is also when annual pruning takes place — a perfect time to save useful branches. Most untreated cuttings will last one growing season if exposed to the elements. For longer use, store them in a dry shed or garage over winter, and let them fully dry before stacking to avoid rot.

How to Prepare and Use Woody Cuttings

Once you’ve selected sturdy, healthy branches, it’s time to turn them into supports. First, trim off any small side branches and leaves. Cut the base of each stake at an angle — this makes it easier to push into the soil. If your soil is compacted or clay-heavy, pre-dig holes with a trowel or metal rod before placing your cuttings.

Woody stakes should be inserted deep enough to resist wind and the weight of the plant. At least 3-4 inches is good, although this depends on the height of the cutting and the type of plant it will support. For tall or heavy plants like indeterminate tomatoes, deeper anchoring or cross-bracing may be necessary.

Some woods, like willow or poplar, may start to root when pushed into moist soil. This can be a benefit if you want a living trellis, but a drawback if you’re using it in a confined space. If you don’t want the cutting to root, let it dry out before you use it, or strip the bark from the bottom portion.

Once your plants begin to grow, you can gently tease them to grow up your support. Garden twine, or jute, is excellent for this. I love using natural jute as it will compost into the soil once it’s no longer usable.

Simple Structures to Try

Using woody cuttings, you can build a surprising variety of structures with minimal tools. Here are a few beginner-friendly ideas:

Tent Frames: Tent supports are perfect for climbing beans, peas, or even flowering vines. Gather 3–6 similar-length branches and tie them together in a pyramid-like formation at the top with garden twine or jute. Fan the bases evenly and press them firmly into the soil. You can add horizontal cross braces too, if needed. Tents are especially helpful in small gardens or raised beds, as they create vertical growing space without crowding.

A-Frames and Ladders: Form two branches into a wide ‘A’ shape, or place them parallel, and connect them with horizontal rungs using smaller twigs and twine. This type of structure can be leaned over a bed or stood upright like a ladder. It works well for cucumbers or smaller squash varieties and can be adapted in size depending on your available cuttings. 

Woven Panels: If you have flexible branches like willow or dogwood, try weaving them horizontally between upright stakes to create a rustic lattice. These panels can support sweet peas, nasturtiums, or even leafy crops like chard when positioned as a backdrop. You can also use woven panels to edge off a bed or provide shade for tender seedlings. Typically, you’ll need at least 5-7 upright poles for good rigidity, with as many crossmembers as you’d like. Trailing vine plants will appreciate larger gaps for example.

Single-Stake Supports: For tomatoes, peppers, or single-stem sunflowers, simple upright stakes work well. Just be sure the branch is thick and long enough to support mature growth — 3 to 4 feet above ground is a good target.

Cages: Take four sturdy sticks, at least 6 inches taller than your plants will grow, and stake them around your plant at a width suitable for its size. Using twine or willow, create rungs around the cage. To keep the rungs tight, loop around each stake and then twist or tie the loose end firmly.

These structures not only save money and reduce waste but also add a handmade, natural charm to the garden that fits right in with an organic or cottage-style aesthetic.

Caring for Your DIY Supports

Woody cuttings, like any garden structure, need occasional maintenance. Check them regularly throughout the season — especially after storms — to make sure they’re still stable, haven’t shifted in the soil, and haven’t started to break. Re-tie loose joints or replace any pieces that have started to rot or snap.

At the end of the season, you can compost smaller branches or store the sturdiest pieces for reuse next year. If you’re using live supports like sunflowers or corn, simply cut them back after harvest, and plan your planting calendar for the following season with new pairings in mind.

What I love most about making my own trellises is the imperfectness of it all. It’s also really fun and helps reduce waste and plastic in the garden.

I hope you have fun making your own as well.

When to Harvest

Whether or not you intend to use the scapes in your kitchen, removing them from the garlic bulb is a good idea to promote the energy into growing larger bulbs. Snip scapes just as they are starting to form a half-circle. Using scissors, snip the stalk without removing any of the leaves. You can harvest when they are a full circle shape, too, as long as they are tender. If you wait too long, the scapes will become tough, woody, and undesirable.  Scapes can be used right away or stored in the refrigerator. They are stored best in the vegetable crisper drawer or in a wet paper towel. You can also chop the scapes and freeze them for later use for up to one year. 

What to Do With Garlic Scapes

Of course, garlic scapes have a garlicky flavor, but it’s not as strong as a clove of garlic, so they are great to use in all kinds of ways. They have a chive or green onion-like flavor that goes well with a lot of different foods. 

• Chop raw scapes and sprinkle them over finished dishes or salads to add fresh garden garlic flavor.
• Saute scapes in butter for a delectable side dish, or add them to stir-fries.
• Chop up and freeze little pieces you can add to soups all year.
• Add chopped-up scapes to biscuit dough for garlicky- biscuits.
• Make a pesto for bread or pasta. 
• You can dry garlic scapes and powder them up for a tasty seasoning.

Garlic Scape Pesto Recipe

Ingredients:

1 Cup of chopped garlic scapes

½ Cup of pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts, or other nuts of your choice

½ Cup of Olive oil or more if desired

½ Cup of shredded Parmesan or Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese

1/2- 1 Tsp of salt

Squeeze of lemon juice, if desired

Whirl all ingredients in a food processor until desired consistency. Feel free to add or subtract ingredients to customize. Store in the fridge for a few days.

How to Use Pesto:

Pasta 

Grilled Cheese dip

Spread on sourdough bread

Pizza sauce

As a dip for crackers

More Reasons to Harvest Scapes

• Since you can only harvest scapes once a year, they are seen as a rare treat. You can sell them at your farmer’s markets or local restaurants to earn extra money if you have a hobby farm.
• Like garlic bulbs, scapes have high levels of antioxidants and may support heart or immune system health. 
• If you’re into making floral arrangements and don’t want to eat the scapes, put them in a vase with water and watch them bloom into an interesting bouquet. You can also store the scapes this way for a couple of days until you are ready to use them in the kitchen. 

Garlic scape season is short, so if you’ve got some hard-neck garlic growing in the garden, check to see if you have some scapes and consider trying them in your kitchen this year. Learn more about growing garlic in the Planter App.

This flower bed is best suited for zones 6-8 (with some wiggle room on either side), and is based on two garden beds I grew a few years ago in the UK. Now that I’m in the Desert Southwest, this layout isn’t so practical for me anymore—but it’s perfect for many of you!

The Plant List

This plan uses six pollinator-friendly favorites, chosen for height variation, texture, and bloom time. All of these are available in the Planter App too:

• Dahlia – Tall, dramatic blooms in late summer to fall. Great focal points with vibrant, full color.
• Snapdragon – Upright early bloomers that bring vertical structure. Excellent for bees, and a good contrast to the looser growth habits of the other plants.
• Bee Balm (Monarda) – A favorite of bees and hummingbirds. Mid-season bloomers with bold texture and striking, unusual flower shapes.
• Cosmos – Airy foliage and daisy-like flowers that bloom all summer. Great for filling in gaps in the display.
• Alyssum – Low-growing and fragrant, ideal for softening edges. Looks lovely when allowed to spill gently over borders and into neighboring zones.
• Nasturtium – Edible, trailing blooms that add color and charm.

Together, these plants will support bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds (if they’re around where you live) across the season, with vibrant blooms across the bed from early Spring to late Fall.

The Layout

The Planter App works in squares, which is excellent for most garden plans. However, curves often work better when it comes to flower beds, helping the display feel natural and unified. This design uses three main zones:

1. Tall show plants – Dahlias and snapdragons primarily occupy the back of the bed, so they don’t overshadow the others.
2. Medium-height massing plants – Cosmos and bee balm help create a smooth transition with lots of texture and interest.
3. Low, trailing plants – Alyssum and nasturtiums fill the front. You could also add marigolds here for more color.

I like to mark up my designs (this one was done in MS Paint) to visualize how plants will overlap and where the curves will be. I’ve aimed for plenty of overlap at the front to form a carpet that helps suppress weeds and hides bare stems that appear later on taller plants like cosmos and bee balm.

This can also be done using paper and pencil, which is generally my preferred method.

Design Principles

Rather than scattering individual plants, this design uses clusters, which offer several advantages:

• You’re less dependent on one plant thriving.
• Transitions between zones look smoother.
• Blooms make more visual impact in groups.

Key details:

• Snapdragons are placed in mirrored sets of four, anchoring both ends and the center.
• Cosmos and Alyssum are repeated throughout the bed, tying everything together.
• Nasturtiums are staggered in three bold patches, balancing structure with a bit of whimsy.

This approach avoids what can become a chaotic look by grouping plants by height, spacing out bloom times, and varying color just enough. Keep in mind, though, that some controlled chaos can work wonderfully too! You can balance the look and feel of your flower bed to your tastes!

You can mix and match color palettes for most of these plants. I lean toward a mix of pinks, reds, and oranges, with white Alyssum. This design would also work wonderfully with a varied blend of colors throughout; it’s very flexible.

Symmetry and Flow

The layout has a mirrored structure, which helps guide the eye across the bed and gives it an intentional, restful feel, even when it’s bursting with blooms.

• Snapdragons bloom early.
• Cosmos and Bee Balm take over in midsummer.
• Dahlias bring the season to a grand finale.
• Nasturtiums and Alyssum offer continuous color and scent with minimal effort.

Layering bloom times means there’s always something happening in the bed. And if you keep up with deadheading, many of these plants will bloom more than once.

The symmetry here is almost—but not perfectly—balanced. That’s intentional. Perfect symmetry can feel stiff, and if one plant fails, it becomes obvious. Slight variation helps the design feel natural.

Plant Numbers

With flowers, you have a little more wiggle room than with vegetables, in terms of space. I always plant more than I need so I can adjust as things grow (or don’t). Here’s what I’m planning for this bed:

• Dahlias: 4-6
• Bee Balm: 4–5
• Cosmos: 6–8
• Nasturtiums: 5-10 (size varies a lot)
• Alyssum: 16-18
• Snapdragons: Same as the original plan

Since I’m starting from seed (and tubers for the dahlias), some loss and thinning are expected. The key to flower gardening is flexibility—you can always thin or expand a patch if something doesn’t thrive.

Tips For Success

• Staking: Dahlias and Cosmos may need support midseason.
• Thinning: Bee Balm can get mildew if crowded. Improve airflow by removing a few plants if needed.
• Deadheading: Keep Alyssum, Cosmos, and Snapdragons blooming by removing spent flowers.

Feeding: Nasturtiums prefer poor soil and minimal feeding. Dahlias, on the other hand, are heavy feeders.

Adapting This for Your Garden

This style of layering and massing works in beds of any size, though smaller beds benefit from fewer large plants. In this 4×8, I’ve included three tall species: dahlia, bee balm, and snapdragon, which might be too much for, say, a 2×4 ft bed.

For a smaller version, you could:

• Keep the Alyssum and Nasturtium at the front.
• Mix Bee Balm and Cosmos together more densely.
• Add 4–5 scattered Snapdragons to break up the display.

Or

• Offset five Dahlias in a staggered pattern. 
• Fill in with Alyssum and Marigolds at the front.
• Fill in with Snapdragons at the rear.

For larger and/or longer beds, try extending the central massing of Bee Balm and Cosmos into a broader wave or repeating the Snapdragon/Dahlia anchor at intervals to create rhythm across the space. Long borders do well with layered depth—taller plants in the back, of course, but also repeating colors or shapes to tie the space together.

Don’t be afraid to get out some pencils and paper. Sketch out designs and get a feel for the space; a small bed can accommodate a lot of flowers.

Wrapping Up

This 4×8 design shows how even a modest flower bed can feel lush, layered, and pollinator-friendly. With attention to grouping, height, and bloom timing, you can create a garden that feels both abundant and thoughtfully composed—one that thrives even if a few surprises pop up.

For my 2025 garden, my primary focus has been on reclaiming the parts of it that have been overcome by grass.  My garden is very close to our hay field, and keeping grass/hay out of my garden beds is always a constant battle.  Admittedly, I didn’t do much weed control during the winter, and now I’m playing catch-up. This spring has been flying by already! 

What I’m Growing Now

I’ve planted a lot of onions. The birds like to pull them out and toss them about the garden beds. I also have some mice or voles that have made a home in my garden beds, so that has also been a challenge. I’ve been hoping my mouser cat or a falcon or owl would scoop it up, but no luck yet! 

I have one planter for my potatoes. I had to pull out a lot of newly sprouted thistles. That is also an ongoing thing for me.

My medicinal herb bed is made up of many perennials, so I don’t have to do much planting. I did add a horehound plant to it, though.  

Some seeds I have started are: ashwagandha, basil, bok choy, clary sage, garden sage, and splianthes.

Garden Maintenance

A couple years ago, I planted just two calendula plants.  Every year since I’ve had an abundance of self-seeded calendulas pop up every spring. At first, this was delightful! I use a lot of calendula when I make my salves. But last year, they started to become a “garden thug” where they got so out of control they would choke out other plants. How much calendula does a girl need?! So this year, I’m taking a proactive approach, and as much as it saddens me, I’ve been plucking out calendula seedlings all over the place. I will leave a few, of course. 

April means it’s time for me to give my lavender plants their springtime “haircut.”  This keeps their shape nice and rounded and spurs on new plant growth. 

Plans for Spring

I’ve got a lot of work ahead of me before summer arrives. I have one corner of my garden where there are tree roots very close to the surface. Every plant I’ve tried to grow in the ground there dies. This year I want to try a “no-dig garden bed,” where I will lay down layers of cardboard in a row and then cover up the cardboard with several inches of soil. You then plant directly into your piled soil, so there is no digging required. I’ve never grown anything this way, so I hope it goes well. 

Thanks for reading my springtime garden journal! My garden is sure to be buzzing with new excitement soon and I’ll be posting again.

What makes a plant an insectary plant? Insectary plants provide food sources and shelter for beneficial insects, which attracts them and encourages them to stick around your garden. If you’ve already read our article Pest Hunters: Beneficial Predatory and Parasitic Insects, you know that there are many beneficial insects that prey on garden pests. By planting insectary plants we can encourage these predatory and parasitic insects to take up residence in our garden. Not to mention supporting pollinators which are much appreciated garden helpers!

You might be wondering: ‘if beneficial insects eat pests, why do they need plants for food?’ In many cases it’s the beneficial insects’ larvae that prey on insect pests while the adults feed mainly on pollen and nectar. This is why many insectary plants tend to be flowers or flowering herbs. In the case of herbs, it’s important to let at least some of the plants bloom if you want to attract beneficial insects.

Keep in mind that one lonely flowering plant will not entice an army of pest hunters! Aim to plant as many insectary plants as is possible with the space you have, and be sure to plant insectary plants with different bloom times to provide pollen and nectar all season long. Also, place insectary close to the plants you want to protect. If they’re too far away from your main garden the beneficial insects may not make the trek over.

To help with incorporating insectary plants in your garden plan, we’ve compiled a list of some common insectary plants and the beneficial insects they attract:

List of insectary plants

Ammi

Scientific name: Ammi majus

In a study of insectary plants from the University of Connecticut, Ammi majus was found to attract the highest number of beneficial predatory and parasitic insect families amongst all plants studied. Ammi was also the only plant in the study that attracted two types of parasitic wasps- braconids and ichneumonids. Ammi generally blooms in spring and early summer.

Borage

Scientific name: Borago officinalis

Borage is a favored pollinator plant in the garden. It is also highly attractive to beneficial insects such as lacewings, syrphid flies, and ground beetles. Borage may even help to repel hornworms and other pests! Borage self-seeds prolifically; regular deadheading can help to encourage flowering and to reduce the amount of seeds dropped. With good care borage will bloom for most of the growing season- from June to October or longer.

California poppy

Scientific name: Eschscholzia californica

California poppies are native to the western United States and Mexico. They are highly attractive to syrphid flies and can also attract minute pirate bugs. California poppies bloom from early spring to summer, depending on the climate. In warmer areas they are perennials, but in colder climates they are grown as annuals.

Catnip

Scientific name: Nepeta cataria

Catnip does double duty when comes to pest control. Not only does it attract beneficial nectar-feeding insects such as syrphid flies, but it also produces compounds that have been shown to repel pests such as aphids, squash bugs, and others. Catnip is an extremely aggressive spreader that also self-seeds prolifically, so you’ll want to keep it contained and grow it in an area where it cannot easily self-seed. Catnip usually blooms from late spring to mid-summer; deadheading when flowers die back can help to promote new blooms and reduce seed drop.

Chamomile

Scientific name: Matricaria chamomilla

Studies have found chamomile to be highly attractive to syrphid flies as well as parasitic wasps. Chamomile may also help to attract lady beetles, lacewings, minute pirate bugs, and tachinid flies. Chamomile blooms from spring right through to fall, providing a valuable season-long food source for beneficial insects.

Cilantro

Scientific name: Coriandrum sativum

Cilantro goes to flower readily especially when warm, dry weather arrives in late spring to summer. While this can be disappointing if you’re growing cilantro for it’s leaves, it’s a boon for attracting a variety of beneficial insects such as syrphid flies, tachinid flies, parasitic wasps lacewings, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Plus you can let cilantro form seeds then harvest them either to make coriander spice or to re-plant!

Dill

Scientific name: Anethum graveolens

While dill is technically a biennial it often flowers in the first season, depending on the variety and when it was planted. Dill is attractive to syrphid flies, lacewings, lady beetles, and parasitic wasps. You might also find green-black-and-yellow caterpillars on your dill plants. These are black swallowtail butterfly larvae, and while they do eat dill (and related plants) they rarely cause major damage. It’s best to leave them be!

As a bonus, dill may also have a repellent effect on aphids, cabbage loopers, squash bugs, and other pests. Plus dill readily self-seeds if the flowers are left to form seed heads!

Lavender

Scientific name: Lavandula spp.

English lavender is attractive to syrphid flies and lady beetles. Once established, lavender is a drought-tolerant plant that does not like ‘wet feet’, although it will flower best if not left to completely dry out. Lavender typically blooms from late spring to early summer. The scent of lavender, while appealing to many of us, may have a repellent effect on mosquitos, moths, and other pests.

Marigold

Scientific name: Tagetes spp.

Marigolds are a well-known beneficial garden plant, and for good reason! Marigolds are attractive to a variety of beneficial insects including lacewings, damsel bugs, big-eyed bugs, lady beetles, parasitic wasps, and minute pirate bugs. Marigolds also have many reputed pest-deterring properties, although only some of these are proven with research and the effects can vary depending on the type of marigold and how it is used. Marigolds can bloom almost all season long provided they are cared for and regularly deadheaded!

Mint

Scientific name: Mentha spp.

Mint and catnip are related and, like catnip, mint is a very aggressive spreader and self-seeder. So long as mint is contained it is a beneficial addition to the garden, attracting syrphid flies, damsel bugs, minute pirate bugs, and big-eyed bugs. Mint may also have a repellant effect on cabbage loopers and cabbage maggots. Mint usually blooms from late spring through summer; deadheading can help to encourage more blooms and reduce self-seeding.

Oregano

Scientific name: Origanum vulgare

Oregano is attractive to a variety of predatory and parasitic insects such as syrphid flies, tachinid flies, parasitic wasps lacewings, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Oregano may also help to repel aphids. Oregano tends to bloom in mid-summer. The leaves are more flavorful before the plant forms flowers, but do not harvest too aggressively if you want to encourage blooms.

Parsley

Scientific name: Petroselinum crispum var. crispum, P. crispum var. neapolitanum

Parsley is attractive to syrphid flies, lady beetles, parasitic wasps, and tachinid flies, Like dill, parsley is also technically a biennial but it can flower in the first season especially if exposed to extremes of hot or cold weather. Parsley also plays host to black swallowtail butterfly larvae, sometimes called parsleyworms. While they do eat parsley, they usually do not cause major destruction especially in the home garden.

Sunflowers

Scientific name: Helianthus spp.

Sunflowers are a tall and striking addition in the vegetable garden. They are attractive to syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Note that some speciality sunflower varieties do not produce nectar or pollen so they will not be helpful for beneficial insects (nor pollinators). Sunflowers usually bloom in late summer and early fall, providing a great late-season food source. Because sunflowers are tall and may share pests and diseases with other garden plants (more so than some of the other insectary plants), choose a location where sunflowers will not interfere with or shade out other garden plants.

Sweet alyssum

Scientific name: Lobularia maritima

Alyssum is a well-documented insectary plant that is attractive to syrphid flies, lacewings, tachinid flies, lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, and parasitic wasps. Because it is a compact, low-growing plant, alyssum can be tucked into almost any empty space in the garden to lure in beneficial insects (and to help suppress weeds and retain moisture). Alyssum can bloom from summer to fall, although it may slow down during very hot, dry weather. Keep alyssum well-watered and deadhead regularly to encourage continuous blooming.

Thyme

Scientific name: Thymus spp.

Beneficial insects tend to prefer many smaller flowers rather than individual larger flowers. Thyme, with its dainty white or pink flowers, is highly attractive to parasitic wasps, syrphid flies and other beneficial insects. Thyme can also help to repel whiteflies and cabbage moths. Thyme will typically bloom from late spring to summer. As with oregano, thyme leaves are best harvested right before the plant flowers but do not harvest too aggressively if you want to encourage bloom.

There are certainly many more insectary plants than the ones listed here! Of course there will be native plants specific to your area that can help to attract local beneficial predatory and parasitic insects to the garden. Also, research is just beginning to understand how particular garden plants can be best used for natural pest control. No matter which plants you choose, adding a variety of flowering plants in the garden is a great way to beautify the space while providing potential benefits to your edible crops!

In this final article, we’ll explore ways to manage yields, store food and herbs, and offer tips for gardening in tight spaces. We’ll also discuss planting strategies, storage techniques, and ways to keep your harvest fresh longer, whether you’re in a small apartment, a large backyard, or somewhere in between.

Eating Fresh vs Storing

It’s important to consider how you’ll use your harvest. As mentioned in the earlier parts of this series, staggering your planting dates and growing multiple varieties can help ensure a consistent supply of fresh produce throughout the season. This works especially well for tender crops like lettuce that have a short storage life and don’t freeze well.

Many herbs can be dried, and vegetables like carrots and onions can be chopped and frozen—or stored fresh—for cooking year-round. Canning is also a great way to preserve crops such as beetroot and tomatoes.

Helpful Guides:

• Storing Herbs - by Samantha
• A Guide to Canning - by Jessalyn
• Storing Veg (without a root cellar) - by Jared

Storing produce over the winter means growing more at the right time. If you live in a cold climate, remember that food consumption typically rises during the winter months (around 10-30%), so if your goal is to be self-sufficient from your garden, this is an important consideration.

Staggered Planting and Storage

Let’s use carrots as an example.

In the garden bed, I have 1 3ft row of carrots planned. They’re planted next to beans and onions, which are companion plants, so they can share nutrients, and keep pests and diseases to a minimum, which should give a better harvest. The carrots are eventually replaced by kale, which can overwinter and handle the cold weather better.

To plan how much to plant, I created a table:

With the Planter app, you can easily map out your garden and ensure proper spacing between plants. The app suggests planting 16 Danvers per square foot–up to 48 per 3ft row (3 ft x 1 ft)– helping you optimize your garden space for healthy growth.

Small Spaces

If you’re short on space, container gardening is a powerful solution. Pots work well on balconies, patios, or anywhere with limited ground. Many herbs, alliums, and even compact vegetables thrive in containers.

With some care and attention, many crops—from potatoes to strawberries—can thrive in pots. Container gardening also gives you the freedom to get creative with layering and plant combinations. Since space and nutrients are limited, choosing good companion plants is especially important.

A few 10-gallon pots on a balcony or patio can yield a surprisingly generous harvest, especially with succession planting. For example, you could start with a quick crop of green onions or chives, then transplant strawberries into the same pot once the first crop is harvested.

Overwintering Crops

Some crops can survive the winter and start producing again early the next season. Others, like garlic, are planted in the fall and harvested the following summer. Cold-hardy vegetables like kale, spinach, and certain carrots can survive in the ground through frost, especially with a little protection like mulch or row covers. Overwintering gives you a head start on spring and makes the most of your space year-round. Just be sure to know your hardiness zone and choose varieties that can handle the cold in your area.

In this garden, everything except the Zinnia will overwinter quite nicely where I live. The turnips will also replenish a lot of soil nutrients and improve the health of the garden bed for the year to come.

The Other Plants in the Bed

We’ve discussed most of the plants in our example bed so far, and the ones we haven’t, follow the ideas we’ve discussed in this series.

• The onions are planted in succession for a longer harvest, and then replaced with zinnias
• The beans are a determinate variety; I prefer eating beans during cooler months, so one large harvest where I dry them all out is fine for me. These are then replaced with turnips for overwintering.
• The cucumbers will mature in mid-summer, and then be replaced with transplanted okra, which will handle the late summer and fall weather with no difficulty.

Yields

You may not know exactly how much to plant the first year, so keeping notes and logs is useful. Note what varieties grow well, how long they took to grow, how long they kept in the ground, stored in the fridge, etc., to help you carefully plan next year’s harvest. Additionally, you can estimate many varieties by looking at the per-plant yield. We’ve linked some good resources below to help you.

• Cornell Yield Guide
• Michigan State Extension
• UC Master Gardener Program
• Penn State Extension

Other Considerations

Crop Rotation

Planting the same crop in the same spot year after year depletes soil nutrients. Rotating crops helps maintain healthy soil and reduces pest issues. Use the Planter app to track what’s planted where and plan your rotations.

Determinate vs. Indeterminate

Determinate plants (like some tomatoes and beans) produce all at once—great for preserving, but potentially overwhelming. Indeterminate varieties yield steadily over time, ideal for fresh eating. Knowing the type helps you plan harvest timing and storage needs.

Recording Information

Tracking your garden’s performance helps you grow smarter each season. Key things to note:

• What worked (and didn’t): Which varieties thrived? Which ones struggled or weren’t worth the effort? 
• Yields vs. expectations: Did you get more or less than you thought? Were there any surprises? 
• Care needs: Which plants required the most attention, and were they worth it?
• Over– or under-planted: Did you grow too much of something? Not enough? 
• Pests, weather & timing: Jot down issues like late frosts, drought, or recurring pest problems, plus when each crop actually matured.

At the Harvest

There’s a lot to consider when planning how much to grow. It’s unlikely you’ll have a perfect garden your first year, but keeping track of everything will set you up for success.

Planting crops in succession, or staggering them by time or variety, can extend your harvest and give you plentiful amounts of produce throughout the year.

Whatever you choose to garden, remember to enjoy it.

Best of luck!

Many gardeners will plan one thing to grow in a row or an entire garden bed. However, with some careful planning, you can make use of the time before those plants go in and after you take them out.

This is the heart of succession planting: using the same space for multiple crops (the same plant, or different plants) over the course of the growing season. It’s not just for serious growers. Even a small garden can produce a surprising amount when the timing lines up.

Planting in Succession

Imagine that you want to grow peppers, a delicious warm-season crop. After checking the dates for your area, you realize you can’t plant them outside until quite late in the year due to frost, even though some plants can be started in February.

But that doesn’t mean the space has to sit empty. While you wait for warmer weather, you can use that garden bed for cool-season crops, which don’t mind a little frost. These early growers will be ready to harvest just in time to make room for your pepper transplants later on.

Here I decided to grow radish and spinach before transplanting the peppers later in the year. Using the same principles, the peppers are then replaced by leeks, which don’t mind the cooler fall weather.

Creating a table helped me visualize the dates for this succession planting, so that I knew all the plants would work together.

Planting in Waves

Some crops mature quickly and leave behind empty soil. Lettuce is a great example of this. Lettuce matures quickly and produces a lot from each plant. By staggering your plantings, you can have a steady harvest of lettuce throughout the growing season, instead of all at once.

Lettuce also keeps in the ground quite well, so you don’t have to harvest it all right away. Let’s look at a detailed example.

For my garden, I’ve planned one 3ft row of lettuce and have chosen three varieties, each with a slightly different taste and flavor profile. To plan exactly when to plant and when they’ll be ready to harvest, I created this table.

This will vary based on your location. If you live somewhere particularly wet, your lettuce might not keep for as long in the ground, or it might take longer to mature.

Planting Different Varieties

Some plants don’t offer the flexibility that lettuce does. Tomatoes, for example, have a long growing period before they mature, and need the cooler weather to get big enough before they fruit. If you want tomatoes all throughout the year, you can plant different varieties.

Cherry tomatoes typically ripen soonest, then medium-sized ‘slicer’ style tomatoes, with the larger tomatoes maturing the latest. Growing some of each will give you a plentiful supply and a good variety.

It’s important to remember how plants produce their harvest, too. Some plants are determinate and produce most of their harvest all at once. Indeterminate varieties will produce relatively consistently across the season after they mature. We’ll dive into this more a little later.

In this garden bed, we have three varieties being transplanted in April and one in June. This combination gives a staggered harvest across the summer and into the fall, with some excellent Long-Keepers that will store well into January in the right conditions.

Keeping the Soil Healthy

With staggered and successive planting, soil health can decline more quickly, but with some careful management, you can prevent this.

Focusing on companion plants helps balance nutrient depletion. For example, nitrogen-fixing plants like peas or beans can replenish the soil, while herbs like basil or marigolds can improve plant health and deter pests.

Adding small amounts of compost and fertilizer between plantings also keeps the soil healthy. Compost enriches the soil, improving moisture retention and nutrient supply, while a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can support heavy feeders.

Mulching is another simple yet effective strategy. It helps regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and reduce weeds. As mulch decomposes, it adds organic matter to the soil, further boosting its health.

With these strategies, your soil can remain vibrant and productive throughout the growing season, supporting your plants’ needs.

Almost There!

Hopefully, this has given you some great ideas on how to plan your garden. The final article in the series will discuss yields, considerations for your harvest, and other important considerations.

Let’s explore some thoughtful ways to decide what to plant, when to plant it, and how to shape your season around your needs.

What to Plant

Planning what to plant is as straightforward or as complicated as you would like, but the best garden is the one you’ll eat, or share the produce from. Start by thinking about:

• Your most-used fruits, vegetables, and herbs
• What you (and your family if applicable) enjoy eating
• What might be difficult/expensive to find in the store
• Things you’d like to try growing.

Then, check how well they’ll grow in your climate and space. While many plants can grow outside their native range with some care, be mindful of maintenance requirements such as water, sunlight, and temperature. This is a balancing act, and it’s essential to understand how these factors will affect your yields and how much time you’ll spend caring for them.

You don’t have to grow everything—just a few crops you’ll be happy to eat every week. Consider adding one or two new-to-you varieties for fun or flavor variety.

Using Planter to Visualize

Next, assess your available planting space and calculate how much you can grow. The Planter app can help you design your garden, show companion plants in the plant information section, and show compatibility on the main garden planning view. Begin by deciding on your must-haves. Maybe tomatoes or a selection of herbs are at the top of your list. Starting with large plants is also helpful, as smaller ones can easily fit into gaps between plantings.

Using the Planter app, you can easily log notes, track planting dates, and map out your garden layout. Some features, like plant notes (garden-wide notes are available to everyone), are available to Planter Premium subscribers. However, the free version still offers plenty of tools to help you plan a healthy, vibrant garden.

When to Plant

Start with your frost dates—you’ll find your average last frost in spring and first frost in fall using tools like the Planter app or your local extension office’s website. This will help you:

• Plan when to start seeds indoors
• Know when you can direct sow hardier crops
• Know how long your growing season is

Also note maturation times. If something takes 100 days to mature, you’ll need to get it started early enough to finish before cold weather returns.

Additionally, consider when your plants are ready to harvest. For example, you might plant carrots, tomatoes, and lettuce, which could all mature in the same week, leaving you with a lot of produce. Staggering your plantings or choosing a mix of varieties can spread out harvest time, giving you more time to enjoy your produce or prepare it for canning without feeling overwhelmed.

Where to Plant

Mapping out your garden is very helpful. Identify dry areas and wet areas, sunny areas and shaded areas. Many plants are forgiving of their growing environment, while others wilt with a little too much sun, or wither if they get too much shade.

You should also consider testing your soil. The most accurate test is to take soil samples to your local extension office (many will allow you to mail them in). Costs vary by your region; however, they give detailed results that can help you plan appropriate amendments for your garden.

Accounting for Loss

Not every seed you plant will grow, and not every plant will make it to maturity. Some seed packets have thinning instructions - lettuce, for example - to account for loss, while others do not. As a general guideline, most gardeners get an 80-85% success rate on their plants, although this varies by plant variety and growing location. Some plants are known to be fickle. Cauliflower, for example, needs a long, cooler growing season, and carrots are very particular about their soil.

As a general rule, the less plants are disturbed, the better. It’s disheartening when your carefully raised seedlings collapse just a few days after they’re moved into the main bed. Acclimating plants can minimize this. By keeping your indoor starts outside for a week (or a little more) before planting, you help the plant adjust to the windy, drier conditions outside in a process called hardening off.

(Read more about it here)

Getting Nitty Gritty

To illustrate the principles I’ll discuss in this series of articles, I’ll use two garden beds I designed on Planter (multiple gardens is a premium feature). The first is a 3x6 ft bed that serves as my ‘main’ garden bed. In this bed, I use different techniques to increase my harvest, from succession planting to staggered planting. I have four iterations of this planned out in the same bed plan, to remind me how it will change through the growing season. The second is my tomato bed, where I use different varieties to extend the harvest window. 

Closing Thoughts

Planning your garden is an art of imagination and attention. The more you align your choices with your actual habits—and let yourself adjust with the season—the more satisfying it becomes.

In the next article, we’ll look at how succession planting and variety selection can help you grow more with less space and effort.

Some beneficial predatory insects can look quite threatening, so it’s important not to just squish (or spray) any scary-looking bug. Also, it’s often the younger larval and nymph stages that chow down on (or parasitize) pesky garden pests. These young stages they often look nothing like the adult insects we’re more familiar with.

Take for example a lady beetle (ladybug) larva, which looks quite gnarly:

These wild-looking larvae can actually eat more aphids than adult lady beetles! When in doubt, research first before concluding that something is a pest.

To help identify the ‘good guys’ in the garden and which pests they target, we’ve compiled a list of some common beneficial insects:

Predatory and parasitic insects

Aphid midges

Scientific name: Aphidoletes aphidimyza | Click to search on Google Images

Aphid midge larvae feed on around 60 different types of aphids, as well as other soft bodied insects. A single larva can eat from 3 to 50 aphids per day! Adult aphid midges are not predatory; they consume pollen and ‘honeydew’ (sugary secretions). Adults tend to be active at night so you might not detect their presence in your garden.

Big-eyed bugs

Scientific name: Geocoris spp. | Click to search on Google Images

Big-eyed bug adults and nymphs both feed on a variety of small pests including flea beetles, mites, aphids, whiteflies, and others. They tend to be found in low-growing plants, at the base of plants, and hiding in leaf litter on the ground. Big-eyed bugs are also known to feed on plants particularly when prey are scarce, but they rarely cause substantial damage.

Damsel bugs

Scientific name: Nabis spp.

Not to be confused with damselflies (coming up next!) damsel bugs prey on many types of insects and caterpillars at various life stages, including: aphids, spider mites, moth eggs, corn earworms, European corn borer, imported cabbageworms, some armyworms, some beetles, thrips, leafhoppers, tarnished plant bug nymphs, asparagus beetles, and Colorado potato beetle eggs and nymphs. Damsel bugs can also feed on plants but they do not cause plant injury.

Dragonflies and damselflies

Scientific name: Order ‘Odonata’

Dragonflies and their smaller relatives, damselflies, eat prolific quantities of mosquitoes, gnats, moths, and practically any small flying insects. While they are considered beneficial in the garden and the ecosystem, larger dragonflies can sometimes prey on other beneficial insects like butterflies, bees, and smaller dragonflies. Dragonflies and damselflies tend to live near wetlands, ponds, and streams, so adding water features to your garden may help attract them.

Ground beetles

Scientific name: Agonum spp., Calosoma spp., and others | Click to search on Google Images

Ground beetles are nocturnal predators that prey primarily on soil-dwelling pests such as wireworms, armyworms, cutworms, maggots, slugs, and snails, as well as aphids, cucumber beetle and Colorado potato beetle larvae. There are many different genera and species of ground beetles. Some types will feed on plant tissue and seeds- they can put a considerable dent in the weed seed bank! Ground beetles prefer moist environments and they like to hide out in garden mulch. 

Lacewings

Scientific name: Chrysopa spp., Chrysoperla spp., and others

Lacewings are green or brown flying insects with delicately patterned wings that do indeed look like lace. Lacewing larvae eat a wide variety of small, soft-bodied garden pests including: aphids, mites, thrips, mealybugs, whiteflies, leafhoppers, moth eggs, and some beetle eggs. Lacewing adults feed mainly on pollen and nectar.

Lady beetles (ladybugs, ladybirds)

Scientific name: Family ‘Coccinellidae’

Lady beetles consume large quantities of aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, scale insects, and other soft-bodied insects throughout their entire lifecycle. When prey is scarce some species will feed on pollen. Lady beetles are overwhelmingly considered beneficial, although there are a few specific species that can be garden pests such as the Mexican bean beetle (Epilachna varivestis).

Asian lady beetles have been introduced to North America and are now widespread. They can be somewhat of a nuisance when they try to enter homes and buildings in fall, and they can outcompete native lady beetle populations. However they are also valuable pest-hunters. If they happen make it indoors you can vacuum them up but it is not generally recommended to control them outdoors.

Minute pirate bugs (insidious flower bugs)

Scientific name: Orius spp. and others | Click to search on Google Images

Minute pirate bugs are fast-moving predators that eat aphids, spider mites, thrips, springtails, leafhoppers, insect eggs, and some small caterpillars throughout their lifecycle. If prey run our they will turn to pollen and nectar as a food source. Minute pirate bugs look quite pest-like in both the nymph and adult stages but they are beneficial. They do sometimes bite humans, especially in the fall, but the bite is minor and they do not transmit diseases.

Parasitic wasps

Scientific name: Families ‘Ichneumonidae’, ‘Braconidae’, and others

There are many different types of parasitic (and predatory) wasps. Unlike predatory wasps though, parasitic wasps do not sting. Some of the most well known parasitic wasps are braconid wasps which parasitize caterpillars including armyworms, cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, fall webworms, and hornworms. They can also parasitize aphids. Other species of parasitic wasps will attack moth and butterfly eggs, beetles, thrips, and more. For the most part adult wasps feed on pollen, nectar, and honeydew.

Praying mantids

Scientific name: Family ‘Mantidae’

Praying mantids are fearsome predators. Adults can attack larger pests like caterpillars, crickets, and cockroaches, and juveniles can consume considerable quantities of aphids and smaller pests. While they are highly effective pest-killers, mantids are just as likely to target beneficial insects likes bees and butterflies- and even each other! They should not be killed as they do have some benefits, but it’s better to focus on attracting other beneficial insects.

Syrphid flies (hoverflies, flower flies)

Scientific name: Family ‘Syrphidae’

Syrphid flies are also known as hoverflies or flower flies. They look somewhat like a bee crossed with a fly, although they do not sting. The adults can be found, as the names suggest, hovering around flowers to collect pollen and nectar. Adult syrphid flies are effective- and often underappreciated- pollinators. Syrphid fly larvae on the other hand are voracious predators. They eat pests such as aphids, mealybugs, thrips, leafhoppers, scale insects, mites, and even some caterpillars.

Tachinid Flies

Scientific name: Family ‘Tachinidae’ | Click to search on Google Images

Tachinid flies are a large family of parasitic flies that play an important role in pest control in the natural environment and the garden. There are many, different-looking species of tachinid flies and can be difficult to distinguish some of them from houseflies. Others look somewhat similar to bees and wasps. Adults feed on honeydew and nectar, while their larvae parasitize caterpillars, stink bugs (including squash bugs), beetles, and grasshoppers (typically they feed on eggs and larvae).

Caveats with beneficial insects

If you’re looking for more natural ways to keep pest damage to a minimum in your garden, it’s helpful to become familiar with beneficial insects and which pests they eat. To support beneficial insect populations in your garden, try to avoid using insecticides as much as possible. Keep in mind, though, that attracting beneficial insects is a medium-to-long-term strategy. If you have a major pest infestation you may want to take action.

It’s also important to know that while there are some predatory insects available to purchase, they are generally used in enclosed commercial greenhouses. If they’re released outdoors many of them may leave your garden. It can also be difficult to time the release to be effective, and to be sure that the purchased insects will prey on the exact species of pest that you’re dealing with. Besides questions of effectiveness, there are considerations with how some beneficial insects are harvested, and whether it’s harmful to move insects from one area to another. Generally, it’s better to attract local beneficial insects to your garden rather than to buy them. For information on plants that can help attract beneficial insects to your garden, check out this article: What Are Insectary Plants?

Hummingbirds’ primary food source is the nectar of flowers. Still, they eat small amounts of bugs, helping keep insect populations in check. When they visit flowers, they also help pollinate. Tubular-shaped flowers are perfect for hummingbirds to sip nectar with their long beak. While they love nectar-filled flowers of all colors, they are drawn in by red flowers the most. If you want to add the excitement of hummingbirds to your gardens, put some of these “hummingbird magnet” plants in your garden plans this year!

Foxglove

Although all parts of the foxglove are poisonous to humans, hummingbirds aren’t affected by them. Foxgloves bloom in late spring and early summer, so they’re much appreciated by hummingbirds while they wait for summer’s bountiful blooms. Many nectar-rich flowers love sunny spots in the garden, but the foxglove prefers areas that get afternoon shade.

Larkspur

Another early bloomer in the garden, larkspurs are a favorite among hummingbirds. Like foxgloves, larkspurs are poisonous to pets and humans, but again, this is not a problem for hummingbirds.  

Snapdragon

Hummingbirds love snapdragons. The varieties ’Twinny Peach’ and ‘Sonnet*’* are noted to be especially good for hummingbirds because of their flower shape and high nectar content.

Stock

A member of the Brassica family, cool-weather-loving stock (Matthiola incana) flowers will attract hummingbirds to your garden. With growing heights of 2-3 feet tall (.6-.9m), they’ll surely grab the attention of hummingbirds in the area. 

Fuchsia

Another great flower for areas with partial shade is the fuchsia. Fuchsias are a classic hummingbird magnet. Place hanging baskets of fuchsia around your porch or patio for some up-close bird watching.  

Bee Balm

Bee balm, also known as Monarda, is a wonderful multi-purpose plant; from its herbal features to its beauty, bee balm is also an absolute favorite of hummingbirds.  Its long tubular flowers are perfect for hummingbirds to put their long beaks into. While it looks like hummingbirds use their beaks as a straw to suck up nectar, they actually slide their beaks into flowers, and then their skinny tongue shoots out and laps up the nectar! Definitely add bee balm if you are trying to bring in hummingbirds. 

Crocosmia

Crocosmias are the perfect flower for hummingbirds, especially if you get the variety known as ‘Lucifer.’ They love the bright red flowers.  Grow crocosmia in a sunny location.  While these plants are very beautiful, it’s important to note that in some areas, they are considered invasive and can become pests in your garden, especially in areas like the West Coast of the United States.

Scarlet Runner Beans

A plant that humans and birds can eat, the lovely scarlet runner bean has beautiful red and orange flowers, followed by edible bean pods.  Grow these around an A-frame trellis for a tent-like “fort” where kids can hang out and watch the birds buzz by.  Keep picking beans as summer goes on to encourage flower production.

Salvia 

Salvias are members of the mint family, and there are about 1,000 plants in the Genus Salvia.  Salvia refers to sage, but not all Salvias are the culinary kind of sage. Of all the plants in my garden, one tends to spark the most hummingbird battles: the ornamental Salvia variety known as ‘Hot Lips.’  These tube flowers are red and white, filled with a lot of nectar, and tend to keep blooming past the hottest days of summer and into the fall in my zone (8b).  If you plant some ‘Hot Lips,’ it’s almost guaranteed that you will have at least one hummingbird visitor. They also like other Salvia varieties, but I think the red draws in the birds the most. 

Plants for Hummingbird Hangouts

Hummingbirds prefer to make their nests in trees and shrubs with slender branches and high enough up off the ground to be be safe, at least 10 feet up and usually much higher. They make their nests in the forks of branches. Naturally, they choose places that are close to reliable food sources. Elder trees seem to be popular with the hummingbirds in my yard. They love the spring blooms and I often see them hanging out on the branches. Lilacs offer a great place to get a snack and possibly make a nest.

Hummingbird Feeders

You will likely become the neighborhood hummingbird buffet if you plant some of these flowers.  You can still fill feeders with nectar even if you have all of these flowers, but keep it clean and re-fill it with fresh nectar often. Hummingbirds can become very sick and even die when mold grows in feeders (which happens fast when it is hot outside).  Feeder tips:

• Always use pure white cane sugar for homemade mixes.
• Do not use the raw brown organic kind. This kind of sugar is great for us due to the minerals, but it is not good for hummingbirds. 
• Do not use food coloring. The color of the bird feeder should be enough to draw it in.

Use this ratio when making nectar with cane sugar: 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. So, you could dissolve 1 cup of sugar into 4 cups of water. 

via GIPHY

No garden needed with the method above!

Design Your Hummingbird Garden

Use the Planter App to design the hummingbird garden of your dreams!

But, just as you can get sunburned from too much exposure to the giant ball of gas in the sky, so can plants. Days with a high UV index and extended periods without clouds or rain can stress plants, causing sunscald, leaf burn, and dehydration. This is especially important in hotter, drier climates where intense sunlight and limited water availability make growing conditions more challenging. Some plants have adaptations, like waxy coatings or fuzzy leaves, to help protect against sun damage, but others may require shade or additional care to thrive.

Careful planning during pre-season and planting, with active management of your garden while it grows will keep your plants healthy throughout the growing season, no matter how sunny.

Types of Shade

We’ll classify shade into two types: natural and artificial. Neither is inherently better than the other, although artificial shade is often more adjustable to current conditions.

Natural shade is created through plants–especially trees and shrubs–which provide varying degrees of coverage as they grow. Deciduous trees offer seasonal shade, allowing more sunlight in early and late growing seasons when there is less sunlight while protecting plants from intense summer heat. Evergreen trees and dense shrubs create consistent, year-round shade. Vining plants on trellises and pergolas provide natural shade while enhancing airflow and cooling the soil, creating a dynamic microclimate.

Artificial shade includes shade cloths, pergolas, trellises, row covers, and garden umbrellas. These options offer immediate and adjustable coverage, making them ideal for protecting delicate plants from harsh sun exposure. While artificial shade may require occasional maintenance, such as adjusting placement or replacing worn materials, it allows for precise control over light levels–useful in regions with extreme temperatures.

Natural Shade

Trees

Deciduous trees lose and gain leaves with the seasons, providing shade when plants need it most. Plant them to block the sun from the south to the southwest without reducing winter light.

To prevent water competition, place them about ⅔ of their mature height away from garden beds. They take around five years to provide significant shade so temporary shading may be needed. However, their fallen leaves create natural mulch, which you can use to enrich the soil.

Fruit trees can be an excellent addition to your garden. Some plants can also be planted directly underneath them, allowing you to use more garden space. A favorite of mine is strawberries under apple trees; they do exceptionally well together.

Evergreens can be good for shade, but many are quite thin, so offer it in limited amounts. Additionally, if planted to shade from the south to the southwest, they will reduce your growing season by at least a few weeks.

Companion Planting for Shade:

Companion planting creates shade by pairing plants together. For example:

• Shade-loving vegetables: Plants like spinach, lettuce, and kale can grow well in shaded areas, particularly under taller crops like corn or trellised pole beans, which are far more tolerant of sun. Pairing these shade-loving vegetables with taller plants provides mutual benefits—taller plants create shade and lower-growing plants can help keep the soil cool and increase soil life. 
• Groundcovers: Groundcovers like creeping thyme or moss can spread quickly in shaded areas, acting as natural mulch. These plants also work well around trees or shrubs, reducing weeds and keeping the soil cool.
• Herbs in the shade: While many herbs prefer full sun, some, like mint, parsley, and cilantro, can thrive in partial shade. These can be grown in containers or at the base of taller plants to maximize space and create a layered effect in your garden.

Artificial Shade

Shade Cloth

Shade cloth, or shade fabric is a semi-opaque material that you can suspend over your plants to restrict the amount of light that reaches plants. It also filters it into a dispersed pattern, reducing sunburn risk; a common cause of brown, splotchy leaves. 

The density of shade cloth is an important consideration. Too much shade and plants will wilt. Many areas only need shade cloth during the height of summer, if at all. This table is a rough guide for many areas.

Shade cloth can be installed in a variety of ways. Using flexible canes you can create a tunnel over your plants, or the shade cloth can be installed like a wall along the south to southwest sides of the garden bed. Many gardeners also suspend shade cloth over their plants like a roof, leaving the sides open. 

Observing how sunlight hits your garden and the type of plants you grow will determine the best method for you. For example, tall plants are less suited to a tunnel shade and are better suited to overhead or wall shading.

Find some shade fabric options here: Amazon.com: Agfabric: Shade Cloth

Permanent Structures

Pergolas provide a sturdy frame above your garden. Climbing plants such as wisteria, grapevines, and passionflowers (find plants suited to your area) can provide dappled shade during the summer. Climbing wires can also be strung between pergola poles, assisting plants such as beans and tomatoes when they grow tall. 

Pergolas can be expensive but they are very adaptable. As well as plants, shade fabric can be attached to the structure, offering multiple types of shade.

Trellises are another permanent or semi-permanent option. Often smaller, they can be oriented along the sunniest side of the bed. They too provide a structure for climbing plants to grow on, and lattice structure still allows sunlight to filter through.

Creating Shade on a Budget

Many permanent structures such as pergolas and trellises can become expensive if your garden is large, and mulch can only do so much. You may already have some materials lying around that can offer a healthy amount of shade for your garden.

Old Bedsheets/covers

• White bedsheets, tablecloths, duvet covers, and similar fabrics can offer shade for your garden. The light color of the fabric is key and while not as effective as shade cloth, is a great way to reduce, and reuse what you already have.

Netting

• If you’re already using netting to stop rabbits, deer, birds, and insects, or you are considering it, netting is a good low-shade option, similar to 10% fabric. For many cooler environments, this amount of shade is sufficient for the average summer.

Find some netting options here: Amazon.com: Agfabric: Netting

Umbrellas

• Have an old patio umbrella lying around? Or one you’re still using? If shade isn’t a yearly necessity for your garden, patio umbrellas can be quickly moved to shade your garden on exceptionally hot and sunny days.

Mulching for Root Shade

While not overhead shade, mulch is crucial in shading plant roots, preventing soil from overheating and drying. Organic mulches like wood chips, straw, or compost act as insulators, keeping soil temperatures low and moisture levels consistent.

In warmer climates avoid dark mulches such as cedar as much as possible. Lighter mulches will trap less heat while retaining moisture and reducing plant stress.

Choosing the Right Shade for Your Garden

Planning the right shade for your garden is essential for keeping your plants healthy, reducing heat stress, and promoting growth throughout the growing season. Whether you opt for natural shade from trees, artificial shade from structures like pergolas or shade cloth, or a mix of both, understanding your climate and the specific needs of your plants is key. Companion planting can further enhance shaded areas by pairing plants with similar light and moisture requirements. By taking the time to assess your garden’s unique conditions and selecting the right shade solutions, you’ll create a resilient, thriving garden that flourishes, no matter the sun’s intensity.

The best type of shade for your garden depends on your climate, plant selection, and garden layout. In dry regions, shade cloth and mulch can significantly reduce heat stress. In temperate areas, deciduous trees or pergolas with vining plants can provide seasonal relief without blocking too much light year-round. Portable solutions like row covers and umbrellas allow gardeners to adapt as conditions change.

To get started, assess your garden’s sunlight exposure at different times of the day and experiment with shading solutions that best suit your plant’s needs.

Stay cool out there!

In this article, we’ll delve into tips and tricks to store your seeds properly so they last as long as possible.

Seed storage containers and organization

If your seeds came in packets from the seed company, it’s best to keep them in their packets as they usually contain a wealth of information that you can refer back to the next time you want to grow those seeds. It’s helpful to use a paperclip or alligator clip to hold seed packets shut as it’s easy for small seeds to escape and get mixed up if the packet is just folded shut. Most seed packets have a ‘Packed On’ or ‘Sell By’ date on them that can give you an indication of how old the seeds are, but if you don’t see this information be sure to label the packet with the year that you purchased the seeds.

Seed storage containers can be as simple or complicated; as inexpensive or expensive as you choose. The main goal with the storage container is to keep humidity away from your seed packets as much as possible. Seed packets can be kept in well-sealed plastic baggies, glass jars, or plastic containers with tight-fitting lids. You can optionally add silica desiccant inside the containers with your seed packets to help draw out residual humidity. 

Handy tip- you can reuse silica desiccant- either that you purchased or even the little packs that come with shoes and other things you buy- by drying it in the microwave or oven! Look for detailed step-by-step instructions online (and be careful to only put safe materials in the microwave or oven!)

There are some question marks on the effectiveness of vacuum sealing seeds, but if you choose to go this route it is best to use both a desiccant and oxygen absorber in the bag (/container). Seeds that have been vacuum sealed should still be stored in a cool, dark place.

No matter where you store seeds, they must be absolutely dry before storing in containers. If there is excess moisture in your seeds for any reason (e.g., if you are saving your own seeds, or if your seeds got wet during planting), they could easily turn moldy inside the containers.

There are a few different ways you can organize your seeds within their containers. You can organize seeds by the year they were purchased (or the Sell By dates), so it’s easy to find older seeds to use up first. You could also organize seeds into categories- e.g., leafy greens, herbs, flowers. If you have a large seed collection it might make sense to group seed packets by plant (e.g., tomatoes, lettuce, etc.) so it’s easy to see all the different varieties you have of each.

Personally, I like to use small plastic tubs with tight-fitting lids to store my seeds. I use plastic baggies inside (with the air squeezed out) to group the seed packets for different categories of plants. Some gardeners really like using clear plastic photo organizers to protect their seed packets and organize them into logical groupings.

Where should I store seeds?

Ideally you’ll want to store seeds in a location that is cool- between 32-40°F (0-5°C), dry- less than 60% relative humidity, and dark. There are a few places that people often consider for storing seeds:

Should I store seeds in the basement or in the garage?

While basements, sheds, and garages can sometimes be cool-ish and dark, they can also have high humidity levels. Many sheds and garages will get surprisingly hot in the summer- and even basements are not really cool enough for optimal seed storage. Besides that, you definitely do not want to store your precious seeds anywhere that rodents or other critters could access. Although not ideal, storing seeds in the basement is likely the better option of the three provided you store your seeds in airtight containers (preferably with desiccant) to help protect them from excess humidity.

Should I store seeds in the refrigerator?

The fridge is an ideal place to store seeds temperature-and-light-wise, although fridges do tend to have higher-than-ideal humidity levels for seed storage (around 65%- above the 60% guideline). If you keep the humidity away from your seeds with airtight containers- and optionally with desiccant- the fridge is a good place for long-term seed storage…assuming you have fridge space to spare! Keep the seed storage containers at the back of the fridge or in a drawer that stays consistently cool (i.e., not near the doors). If you happen to have a mini fridge you could store your seeds there- it may be opened less often and may not be as full as your kitchen fridge. When you take your seed containers out of the fridge be sure to let them come up to room temperature before opening them to keep condensation away from your seed packets.

Should I store seeds in the freezer?

Information is mixed on whether it’s a good idea to store seeds in the freezer. Unfortunately our home freezers do not always have the ideal storage conditions for seeds. Typical home freezer temperatures may be too cold for some types of seeds to be stored. Also, because home freezers are regularly opened, this can lead to freeze-thaw-freeze cycles that can reduce the longevity of seeds. Any power outages can also easily let your seeds thaw out. In general it’s better to keep seeds in the fridge if possible. If you do choose to store seeds in the freezer, be sure they are completely dry, seal them in airtight containers, then choose a location where they are more likely to stay frozen. When you take your seed containers out of the freezer be sure to let them come up to room temperature before opening them to keep condensation away from your seed packets.

How long do seeds keep?

How long seeds keep varies widely based on a number of factors including the source, how they were stored, and the plant itself. The seeds of some plants, such as parsnips and onions, are known to be short-lived even under ideal storage conditions and it’s generally recommended to start with fresh seed each year. Tomato or cucumber seeds on the other hand can potentially last for several years if stored properly. Even reputable sources have different estimates for how long the seeds of certain plants will keep; there’s not a hard-and-fast rule for every plant. Typically, germination rates of stored seeds will gradually decline until at some point they hit near-zero. Sometimes stored seed will still germinate but the resulting plant may not be as vigorous. If you’re willing to deal with slower and more sporadic germination you can continue to use seeds that are quite old.

It’s better to start old seeds in smaller-size trays, so as not to waste too much space for seeds that might not germinate (provided they are seeds that can be started indoors). You can always pot up the seeds that do manage to germinate. Plant more seeds than you need to account for the reduced germination rate of old seeds. Or, if you’d like to know what to expect before you sow old seeds, you can test their germination rate before planting.

How to test seed germination rates

To test the germination rate of seeds, place at least 20 seeds separated from each other between two layers of moist paper towel then place in a plastic baggie and seal it shut. Make sure the baggie is kept at the usual temperature for starting those seeds- for many seeds room temperature should be OK. After a couple days, start checking the seeds regularly to see how many have germinated. You’ll see a little white root starting to poke out of the seed coat.

At the end of the typical germination period for those seeds (usually indicated on the seed packet) count how many have germinated and divide this by the total number of seeds in the baggie. Compare this germination % with the expected germination rate for that seed- germination rates are not usually 100% even for fresh seed! Either find germination rate information on the seed packet, or do a quick web search to find usual germination rates for that variety. If your germination rate is far below what it should normally be for fresh seed you can either choose to discard the seed or take steps to minimize the impact of poor germination.

You may be able to carefully plant the test seeds that have germinated in some seed starting mix, depending on the timing. If you’re running a germination test far too early or too late in your season for that particular plant it may not be worthwhile.

By storing your seeds with care, you’ll maximize their longevity and get the best return on your seed purchasing investment! With careful storage you may be able to get several years of reasonable viability from many of your seeds- so you won’t have to purchase as many new seeds next year. (Or at least if you do it’s to try fun new varieties- not just to replace old seed!)

Water is essential for plant growth. Too little water (or too much), and your plants won’t make it. In hot, arid climates, sunken beds are a preventative measure against warmer weather (catch the rhyme there?).

By sinking the bed below ground level, you take advantage of naturally cooler soil, improved moisture retention, and better wind protection. Sunken beds can be a game-changer for gardeners in dry regions, making it easier to keep plants thriving with less water.

In this guide, we’ll cover what they are, why they work, and how you can create one in your garden. Let’s dig in!

What is a Sunken Bed?

A sunken garden bed is exactly as it sounds. Compared to a raised bed, which is elevated above ground level, a sunken garden bed is below ground level. They’re created by digging out an area and primarily using the existing soil for planting.

Sunken beds are well-suited for most plants and can be better than raised beds for many. Deep-rooted plants love the freedom of sunken beds, and there’s less concern with planting right next to the edge of the bed; the plants have the space to extend their roots beyond the sunken area if necessary. Additionally, trailing plants such as squash and watermelon that can overwhelm small raised beds thrive in sunken beds.

Benefits of a Sunken Bed.

Sunken gardens offer a range of benefits in the desert, making them a smart choice for water-wise landscaping. Here are some of the most compelling reasons to try this method:

• Reduces water loss. The deeper you go, the cooler and wetter the soil naturally is. Plus, the surrounding berms help minimize evaporation by shielding the bed from wind and direct sun while channeling water into the bed.
• Keeps temperatures down. During the hottest part of the day, the raised berms around the edges provide shade for some plants, while the lower elevation helps insulate them from extreme heat.
• Improves soil health. Water that would otherwise run off has a chance to sink in, delivering moisture and nutrients more effectively to plant roots. Over time, this helps build healthier, more resilient soil.
• Protects plants from wind. Strong winds can dry out plants and damage delicate stems in open desert landscapes. A sunken bed offers a natural windbreak, creating a more sheltered growing environment.
• Manages soil salinity. In dry climates, salt buildup in the soil can be a problem. Raised beds tend to pull salts toward the surface, which harms plants. Sunken beds, on the other hand, help draw salts deeper into the ground, keeping them away from plants and their roots.

Considerations for a Sunken Bed

Before you start digging, consider your bed’s size and location. Shelter from the intense afternoon sun is essential. If no natural (trees, shrubs) or structural shade (buildings, walls) exists, you may need to add shade fabric alongside the west and south-west sides of the bed.

Because you can walk through a sunken bed, there’s more flexibility in sizing. Larger beds also allow for companion planting and layering plants for shade (see our Tips for Growing in the Southwest Desert). A standard 4’ x 8’ size (1.25m x 2.5 m) is a good starting point for maintenance, and it’s easy to plan with the Planter app.

Drainage is also important. A slight slope toward one side of the bed can reduce pooling during heavy rain. Additionally, placing a terracotta pot in the soil at the lowest point of the bed can catch excess water during monsoon-like rains. The rim should sit just below the soil level, allowing water to collect and slowly soak in.

Building the Bed

1. Mark out the area with string and stakes to visualize the space. Sunken beds don’t have to be rectangular—you can shape them to fit your garden layout. If doing more than one bed, leave a 3-4 foot (around 1-1.5 meter) walkway between the beds to pile the dirt for the berms and move around the garden.
2. Dig down between 9 and 12 inches (23-30 cm). Pile the excavated soil around the edges to form berms. These raised dirt walls provide shade and block wind. Compact the berms with a shovel or walk on them to slow erosion.
3. Remove large rocks and debris as you dig. Any stones you find can reinforce the berms. You may also line the edge of the sunken bed with bricks or larger rocks for a more formal look.
4. Amend the soil. The top layer of desert soil is often nutrient-poor. Mix in compost to improve moisture retention. A 20% compost to 80% native soil mix maintains well-draining conditions while boosting nutrient supply.

Maintaining the Bed

Caring for a sunken garden bed is much like any other part of the garden; regular watering, weeding, and pest control are necessary. To reduce the spread of weeds, disturb the soil around your plants as little as possible.

Mulch is an excellent addition for water retention and weed suppression, although you should avoid geotextiles and bark mulches as much as possible. If you’re willing to collect it, the leaf litter from your yard (or your neighbor’s) is an excellent, nutrient-rich mulch, as are shredded tree trimmings.

Wrapping Up

Sunken beds offer a lower-cost, water-efficient way to garden. Once the hard work of digging is out of the way, they are relatively self-sustaining. They need less additional compost than raised beds, are suited for a wider variety of plants, and can simply be buried once you’re done—unlike raised beds, which are more permanent.

No matter what you grow, if you’re growing where it’s hot, sunken beds are an attractive and cost-effective way to garden.

Gardening in the Southwest desert comes with unique challenges, but also the opportunity for near year-round gardening. With the right strategies, you can grow a thriving, productive garden, whatever the weather. By selecting heat-tolerant plants, optimizing shade and soil conditions, and managing water efficiently, you can harvest bumper crops of veg year after year.

When to Start

The vibrant bloom of wildflowers marks the arrival of spring in the Southwest, the warm, sunny season in between the nippy winter and the scorching summer. March is the ideal time in the Southwest to transplant warm-season vegetables or start quick-growing seedlings for a full harvest by June.

What to Plant

Focus on quick-maturing vegetables that can handle high temperatures like those from the nightshade (tomatoes, peppers) and squash families (cucumbers, melons, summer squash) as well as herbs, especially rosemary, oregano, thyme, chives (with some shade), and culinary sage. When sourcing plants, look for desert heirloom varieties, hybrids, or regular cultivars that suit the warm, drier climate. Mediterranean plants generally do well in the Southwest; however, you should always check before you buy.

If you’re looking for a wider variety, you can expand your search to plants that mature quickly. Many plants that mature for harvest between 30-90 days (up to 70 days is optimal) can survive a Southwest spring, particularly if given sufficient shade and water.

Where to Plant

The summer sun is hot, and the high UV index in the desert can do a number on plant tissue. To minimize heat stress, focus on planting in areas that receive shade in the afternoon. Raised beds made from fired adobe bricks are excellent in the desert because of their high thermal capacity (they regulate heat well) and will keep the soil cooler than the dirt around it. 

Another consideration is sunken garden beds, which are as equally effective as raised adobe beds for keeping the soil cool. Look for a future article on this and how to create them.

Take temperature readings in your garden before choosing where to plant and observe where shade falls throughout the day as well. Areas near concrete walls or driveways will typically be hotter than those closer to trees or adobe buildings. Be mindful of planting too close to trees however, as they will compete for water and stunt your vegetable growth.

How to Create Shade

Not every spring is mild, and if you don’t have naturally shaded areas in your garden, you can easily create some. 

First, you’ll need some shade fabric, or shade cloth (the name can vary). A shade rating around 60% is ideal so that the sunlight is reduced but not entirely blocked. Shade fabric often comes pre-sized, and with grommets to attach it easily (we recommend this option for ease) so you may be able to buy one that fits your garden bed perfectly, or you can buy a bulk roll and trim to size as needed.

Installing it is very straightforward. The tunnel method, where the fabric is draped over curved canes, or like a triangular tent is excellent for low growing plants, and the fabric can be attached to the canes or structure using zip ties. Alternatively, you can used tall garden canes or fence posts to elevate the fabric to cover taller plants such as tomatoes. For larger posts, a screw can be drilled into the top or side of the post, and the fabric secured over it. For garden canes, zip ties are very handy once again.

Reducing Water Loss

Mulch is essential in Southwest gardens. A 2–4" (5-10 cm) layer around (but not directly on top of) seedlings and young plants helps trap moisture while maintaining airflow. Mulch can also lower soil temperature significantly during the heat of the day. When using mulch, be mindful of small scorpions that may use it as refuge if it becomes too damp; citrus peel or planting lavender with your veg will help to deter them.

Drip irrigation works well in the Southwest desert. Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation and keep roots healthy. Check plant health regularly and provide supplemental watering, especially on hot days. If needed, water again in the early evening with at least 2 hours of daylight left.

Multi-Story Gardening

Layering plants at different heights helps create a cooler microclimate, reduce water loss, and maximize space. You may have heard of the Three Sisters method—corn, beans, and squash—which works well in hot climates. In this system, tall corn provides shade, beans fix nitrogen in the soil, and squash spreads across the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

You can apply these principles to other plants in a Southwest garden:

• Tall plants (e.g., tomatoes, sunflowers, okra) provide shade for heat-sensitive crops.
• Medium-height plants (e.g., peppers, bush beans, eggplants) benefit from dappled sunlight beneath taller plants.
• Low-growing herbs (e.g., basil, oregano, creeping thyme) help retain soil moisture while deterring pests.
• Vining plants (e.g., cucumbers, melons, pole beans) can be trained to climb, reducing ground heat exposure.

By carefully layering plants, you can create a self-sustaining ecosystem that protects your crops from excessive heat and evaporation while improving soil health.

Choosing the Right Soil

Desert soil is often dry and low in nutrients but drains well. Mix it with compost to improve moisture retention and fertility. A good starting ratio is 2/3 compost to 1/3 native soil. Adding in decomposing mulch such as hay is excellent too.

Wrapping Up

Gardening in the desert Southwest isn’t tricky, but a little planning goes a long way. Choosing the right plants and location will help you enjoy a productive harvest year after year.

If you haven’t already seen (or heard) it, check out our latest podcast episode where Peter, Milan, and Erin chat about our garden plans and what we’re doing differently in 2025:

Peter

This year is a big one for me, garden-wise! After 4 years of not having a garden on my property, I will finally be able to walk out my door and pick a tomato off the vine. No more loading up the car with garden tools and jugs of water in the early spring to water seedlings at the community garden! Well actually, that’s a bit of a lie, as I will still continue to have a garden plot at the community garden, at least for this year. This winter we’re cutting down several trees to make a sunny spot for a veggie garden. At about 6-7 hours of sunlight, it still won’t get as much sun as the community garden, but it will get more consistent water and more attention overall. This year will be an experiment to compare how the plants do in the new garden compared to the community garden.

Hopefully at the end of the season we’ll know what’s better, plenty of sun or consistent watering? Will tomatoes actually produce fruit with just 6-7 hours of sunlight? Will leafy greens bolt less with the extra shade? Will my isolated garden fare better pest-wise than the pest-ridden community garden?

To answer these questions, I’ll be planting several identical raised beds in both gardens:

Test Bed 1 - Full Sun Veggies: Nothing needs more sun than nightshades, so this bed will have a variety of tomatoes, tomatillos, and peppers.

Test Bed 2 - Greens: Lettuce, bok choy, and komatsuna will make up this 4x4 raised bed.

Test Bed 3 - Pest Magnets: In my experience, cucumbers and squash all get hammered by pests.

Erin

This year, I moved to a new property that has more land to garden on. I am planning to sell veggies at our local farmers market (and my husband and I will eat a lot of veggies ourselves!) I started with an initial plan in a spreadsheet then I used Planter to visualize where the plants will go in the garden beds. The plant icons in Planter make the plan come to life in a way that’s tricky to do in a spreadsheet. Once I saw the plants in place I knew I had to make some tweaks to optimize the layout. Planter’s drag-and-drop interface makes it super easy to move plants around so you can tweak and make changes until you’re happy with your plan. I’ve intentionally left a few beds open in my plan. I might end up filling them or using them to trial some new ‘experimental’ plants. With Planter it’s easy to adjust my plan on the fly so I can adapt to what the season brings!

Wren

We’ve had an influx in garden pests these past couple years, so we’re going to be focusing a little more on flowers in our garden this year. I have a good amount of flower seeds but was having trouble visualizing where I wanted the flowers to go. Using the Planter app, it really helped me visualize the specific garden beds I want my flowers to be in and how I want them laid out. I feel a lot more comfortable about my plan for my yard this spring now that I know where everything is going.

Samantha

This spring I’m excited to grow a lot of onions and lettuce. I didn’t grow enough last year, so this year I’m dedicating more space to those. I always have to have a little radish patch too. I am very into horseradish lately so I’m going to grow some more this year. I’m still working on my summer garden plans and thinking about what I want to devote my time to. Tomatoes will be a must, some kind of pepper, and there will be a lot of basil. I know I need to move my strawberry patch. Right now it’s under a tree and the birds went crazy eating them. I need to decide the best new location to move the strawberries to.

My medicinal herb garden will mostly stay the same since a lot are perennials. But this year I’m loving all of the new icons that have been created for the Planter App!

Milan

My garden is split into two distinct areas. 

The first part of my garden is in my front/side yard. It features 3 prototype raised garden beds, each with different tools to support growth.

Bed number 1 is what I call my market bed. It is 20’ x 3.5’ and features metal hoops that allow me to add covers for frost, shade, or insects. 

I’ll be interplanting this bed with 6-7 determinate tomato plants. I’m choosing bush varieties that are bred to grow well in containers as well as high-heat. The variety that I’m most excited about is the Hossinator Tomato. It’s a prolific slicer that has impressive disease resistance. 

Between the tomatoes, I’m going to experiment with some lettuce plants. I want to see if the shade from the tomatoes will keep them from bolting so quickly. 

Along the front row of this bed, I’ll have several varieties of bush beans, herbs, and peppers. 

Bed number 2 is a 4’ x 8’ bed with a poly top and roll-up sides. It’s designed to emulate a high-tunnel. Once spring temperatures arrive the sides stay up until winter. The top causes this bed to still be a little warmer than the other beds so I’m dedicating it to some heat loving plants. 

I’ll be planting some indeterminate tomato plants that were bred to be grown in Florida. I’ll also be growing some eggplants alongside of them. These are labeled as combative plants, however I’m grouping them because they have similar growing needs and can handle the heat. 

The third bed in the front yard is my trellis bed. It is a 4’x8’ bed with a built in trellis. I’ll be dedicating this bed to growing cucumbers, dill, and melons. 

The second part of my garden is in my backyard. It features 4 galvanized steel raised garden beds. 

I will be planting 3 of the beds using single crops. I learned the hard way that watermelon and sweet potatoes grow really rapidly and need plenty of room to spread their vines. 

After growing corn for the first time last year, I became hooked. So, I’m excited to dedicate another bed to just corn.

Finally, I’ve wanted to try the 3-sister companion method. So, that bed will include corn, pole beans, and squash/zucchini.

I’m really looking forward to a bountiful harvest season, and I cannot wait to share with you all!

No matter what size peach tree you have, it is still susceptible to pests and diseases. One disease, peach leaf curl, can be especially frustrating. If you have been battling leaf curl or want to avoid it, there are steps you can take in the winter to help prevent it from taking hold in the spring. 

What is Peach Leaf Curl?

Peach leaf curl is caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans.  This fungus first appears as red spots on young leaves in the spring. Soon after, those spots become stiff, and the leaf curls up. Eventually, they turn yellow or brown. The leaves can stick around but more often the infected leaves fall off the tree.  This fungus also affects new green shoots, which can affect the tree’s overall growth if the fungus isn’t controlled. With all of the leaves dying off, it is nearly impossible for the fruit to grow properly. The bad news doesn’t end with a fruitless summer: the fungus spores overwinter on the tree’s bark, where they wait to be revived by spring rains.  The cycle begins again. 

Peaches aren’t the only fruits affected by this problem; nectarines, almonds, and some apricots can also be affected. 

Where Can You Find Peach Leaf Curl Fungus?

The peach leaf curl fungus spreads very quickly in areas that have cool, wet, and humid springs. Places in the USA, like the Midwest, parts of the East, and especially the Pacific Northwest, struggle with peach leaf curl. Other places like Canada and the United Kingdom also have trouble with this plant disease. Even areas that usually have spring temperatures above 70 degrees F (21 degrees C) can have a peach leaf curl problem if they get a stretch of daytime highs in the 50’s-60’s (F), ( 10-15 C) and humid weather. 

Since the fungus sits on the bark before the leaves and buds emerge, winter is the best time to act to prevent or control an infection. 

Peach Leaf Curl Resistant Varieties

The saying that “prevention is better than the cure” applies to peach trees, too. Some varieties are more resistant, although they are not entirely immune to the disease. Keep a close eye on newly planted trees; until they get established, they are still susceptible.  If you’re adding a peach tree to your garden and live in an area with cool and wet springs, try to find one of these varieties: 

• Avalon Pride- dwarf
• Betty- dwarf
• Frost- dwarf
• Mary Jane- dwarf
• Oregon Curl-Free- semi-dwarf
• Salish Summer-semi-dwarf

Treatment

If you are experiencing a leaf curl outbreak during the spring or summer, there is not much you can do at the moment. The leaves will most likely drop off, and new healthy leaves will return. As long as it’s warm enough during the summer, the leaves will not be affected again this season. What you should do is remove and destroy any of the infected leaves. You’ll need to wait until fall to begin treatments. 

Fungicide

After the leaves have dropped in the fall, you can apply the first fungicide treatment. A popular non-toxic option for the home gardener is a copper fungus spray. Sometime in November, spray the tree according to the directions.  Spay again in January and then one final time in February. We want to spray before the buds start emerging.  It’s important to note that even though copper spray is considered non-toxic, over time, too much copper can become toxic to plants. It also seems that copper spray is at its most effective when used as a preventive.

Shelter

Sometimes, spraying a tree isn’t enough. My trees had a bad case of peach leaf curl over two seasons. It was so frustrating, but what finally worked for me was sheltering my trees in the winter. I had 2 dwarf varieties growing in the ground. After treating them with copper spray throughout the winter,  I dug them up while they were dormant and potted them up. I moved them into a cold frame to protect them from the rain. I kept them as dry as possible while they were dormant. If you don’t have a dry cover or don’t want to move trees in the ground, wrap your trees in a clear plastic draping. 

I’ve read that some gardeners plant peaches and nectarines in front of a wall to help with heat retention and make it easier to pin plastic over the trees in winter. 

Remove Leaves

Even with shelter, you still might have some infected leaves; remove and destroy any infected leaves immediately. 

If you’re feeling so frustrated with peach leaf curl that you’re ready to dig up your trees, I know exactly how you feel. I’ve been there. But I encourage you to try the covering method before throwing in the towel. You might thank yourself when biting into a homegrown peach this summer.

Welcome, fellow gardeners! If you’re in the Southeastern United States and eager to grow a thriving vegetable garden, you’re in the right place. Today, we’ll delve into the world of soil amendments – the secret ingredients to transform your garden from good to great.

Why are soil amendments crucial, especially in the Southeast? Our region often presents challenges like heavy clay soil, high acidity, and nutrient deficiencies. But fear not! By amending your soil, you provide your vegetables with the optimal environment to flourish. This is particularly beneficial when amending garden soil in winter, preparing your garden for the spring growing season.

Understanding Your Soil

Before we dive into the specifics, it’s essential to understand your soil type. A simple soil test can reveal its composition and pH level. This knowledge will guide you in selecting the right amendments. You can usually obtain a soil test kit from your local extension office.

Essential Soil Amendments

Here are some key amendments that work wonders for vegetable gardens in the Southeast:

Pine Bark Fines

Want to improve drainage and aeration, especially in our heavy clay soils? Pine bark fines are an excellent choice! These small pieces of bark break down slowly, creating long-lasting benefits.

• Purpose: Pine bark fines improve soil structure, increase water infiltration, and enhance drainage, which is particularly helpful in clay soil. They also help to regulate soil temperature.

• Application: Mix pine bark fines into the soil before planting or use them as a top dressing around established plants.

• Tips:

  • Pine bark fines can temporarily tie up nitrogen in the soil as they decompose, so be sure to monitor your plants for signs of nitrogen deficiency (yellowing leaves).
  • They are slightly acidic, which can be beneficial for acid-loving plants.

Worm Castings

For a truly nutrient-rich boost, look no further than worm castings! These are essentially worm poop—a concentrated source of beneficial microbes and plant-available nutrients.

• Purpose: Worm castings improve soil structure, water retention, and aeration. They also provide a gentle, balanced source of nutrients for your plants.

• Application: Mix worm castings into the soil before planting or use them as a top dressing around established plants. They can also be brewed into a “worm tea” for foliar feeding.

• Tips:

  • Worm castings are a gentle amendment and won’t burn your plants.
  • They are a great addition to potting mixes and seed starting blends.

Pelletted Lime

Lime is a cornerstone of Southern gardening! Our naturally acidic soils often need a boost to reach the ideal pH for vegetables. Pelletted lime is easy to handle and provides a consistent application.

• Purpose: Lime is vital for how to improve clay soil for a vegetable garden in the Southeast. It raises the soil’s pH, making it less acidic and more suitable for most vegetables.

• Application: Apply pelletted lime in the fall or winter before planting. Use a spreader for even distribution, following the recommended amount based on your soil test results.

• Tips:

  • Wear gloves and a mask when handling lime as it can irritate skin and lungs.
  • Water the soil thoroughly after application to help it penetrate.
  • Avoid over-liming, as it can lead to nutrient imbalances and deficiencies.

  

Bonemeal

Give your veggies a strong foundation with bonemeal! This natural source of phosphorus encourages robust root systems, leading to healthier and more productive plants.

• Purpose: This amendment provides a slow and steady release of phosphorus, crucial for root development and flowering.

• Application: Mix bonemeal into the soil before planting at the depths recommended on the packaging, or use it as a side dressing for established plants by gently working it into the soil around the plant’s base.

• Tips:

  • Bonemeal can attract animals, so consider covering the area with mulch after application.
  • It’s best used in combination with other amendments for balanced nutrition.

Alfalfa Meal

Looking for a nitrogen boost that also improves your soil’s texture? Alfalfa meal is your answer! This all-natural amendment is a favorite among organic gardeners.

• Purpose: Alfalfa meal is a nitrogen-rich amendment that also improves soil structure and water retention.

• Application: Incorporate alfalfa meal into the soil before planting or use it as a top dressing by spreading it evenly around the plants.

• Tips:

  • Alfalfa meal decomposes quickly, providing readily available nutrients.
  • It can also be used to create a nutrient-rich tea for your plants by steeping it in water.

Kelp Meal

Bring the power of the ocean to your garden with kelp meal! This seaweed-based amendment is packed with micronutrients and growth-promoting hormones.

• Purpose: Derived from seaweed, kelp meal is a powerhouse of micronutrients and growth hormones. It enhances plant health and stress tolerance.

• Application: Mix kelp meal into the soil before planting or use it as a foliar spray by mixing it with water and applying it to the leaves of your plants.

• Tips:

  • Kelp meal is a fantastic all-natural fertilizer for a wide range of vegetables.
  • It can be used throughout the growing season for a continuous boost.

  

Blood Meal

Need a quick nitrogen fix for your leafy greens? Blood meal is a fast-acting amendment that provides a readily available source of this essential nutrient.

• Purpose: A high-nitrogen amendment, blood meal promotes rapid leafy growth.

• Application: Sprinkle blood meal around plants, avoiding direct contact with stems or leaves, as it can burn them. Water it in well after application.

• Tips:

  • Blood meal can burn plants if used excessively.
  • It’s best applied in small amounts and watered in well.

Compost

Compost is the cornerstone of any healthy garden! This “black gold” is teeming with beneficial organisms and nutrients, transforming your soil into a fertile haven.

• Purpose: Compost is the gold standard of soil amendments! It improves soil structure, drainage, and nutrient content.

• Application: Add a layer of compost to your garden beds and mix it into the top few inches of soil using a garden fork or trowel.

• Tips:

  • You can make your own compost or purchase it from local suppliers.
  • Compost is beneficial for all types of soil and plants.

Aged Manure

Harness the power of nature with aged manure! This time-tested amendment enriches your soil with organic matter and essential nutrients.

• Purpose: Another excellent source of organic matter, aged manure adds nutrients and enhances soil fertility.

• Application: Similar to compost, spread aged manure over your garden beds and incorporate it into the soil using a garden fork or trowel.

• Tips:

  • Ensure the manure is well-aged (at least 6 months) to avoid burning your plants. Fresh manure can be too strong.
  • Different manures have varying nutrient compositions, so choose accordingly. Chicken manure is high in nitrogen, while cow manure is more balanced.

Helpful Tools

• Soil Test Kit: To analyze your soil’s pH and nutrient levels.
• Garden Fork: For loosening and aerating the soil and mixing in amendments.
• Hand Trowel: To dig small holes, mix amendments into the soil, and transplant seedlings.
• Wheelbarrow: To transport soil, compost, and amendments around your garden.
• Spreader: For even distribution of amendments like lime and fertilizer.

Conclusion

By incorporating these soil amendments into your gardening routine, you’ll be well on your way to a bountiful harvest. Remember, healthy soil is the foundation of a thriving garden. Start with a soil test, choose the right amendments, and watch your vegetables flourish! Happy gardening!

Check Your Compost

If you have a compost pile or bin, now is a good time to give it a good turnover. When you turn over compost, it allows oxygen in, and the bacteria get happy and continue to break down the materials. It’s not the most glamorous garden job, but it’s one of the most rewarding. Using homemade compost gives you a great sense of satisfaction. 

Move Plants

If you have any perennials that should be moved elsewhere, winter is a perfect time to do that. For example, if you have some Mediterranean herbs in an area that’s too wet, move them somewhere with better drainage.  If a plant is getting too big for its location, now is a good time to divide it. After it’s been divided, move the new plant somewhere else or give it to a friend. Perennial herbs like marshmallow and elecampane benefit from being divided every two years.   

Prune Apple and Pear Trees

If you have an apple or pear tree with excess branches rubbing against one another, it might be time for a good prune. Pruning trees can be tricky, and there is so much different advice, but generally, it’s best to start slowly. Read up on different techniques.   If you go crazy with the clippers, you risk having a small fruit harvest for the year.   Remove any branches that are weak or diseased looking. Remove branches that are rubbing against other branches.  You want to have a strong frame for your tree, but enough open space for adequate airflow and sunlight to make it through.  Prune lightly the first year; next year, you can decide if more pruning is needed. Always use clean and sharp tools when pruning. 

Plant a Winter Flower Container

Brighten up your patio or window box with some beautiful pansies and violas. Both of these flowers tolerate the cold very well and are such a welcome sight on a gloomy winter day. These flowers are excellent in containers and are usually easy to find at many garden centers starting in January. Make a colorful display to help keep the winter blahs away. 

Shop for New Gear

If you didn’t get what you wanted this holiday season, there’s no shame in buying yourself a few treats.  Check out your gardening gear and see what might need refreshing. I can always go for another pair of gardening gloves.  Gardening tools can get broken or worn out after lots of use, so that’s another thing to consider.

Weeding

Is there ever a season where weeding doesn’t need to be done?  Winter can be a great time to eliminate weeds since they are usually tiny. If you’re in a place that’s covered in snow for most of the season, it’s wise to keep your eyes peeled for signs of weeds springing to life once the snow melts.  A little bit of work now can help a lot when spring comes. 

Start Some Seeds

Believe it or not, most of us can start a few seeds in January. Chile peppers can take a long time to get going, so they can be started now (in most places). Onions, leeks, and kale can also be started in some places. Check out this recent blog post, Cold-Hardy Veggies to Start Now in the Southeast, for more details. 

Clean Out Your Seed Box

Since you’ll be starting seeds any time now, it’s a great time to go through and see what you have and what you should toss. All seeds have their own timeline for how long they will be viable.  In general, it’s anywhere from 1 to 5 years.  You can put some seeds in a wet paper towel, keep them moist, and see how many seeds sprout to show how good they are still. If most of them sprout, you can go ahead and use them for this season. Now is a great time to go through your virtual seed box on the Planter App, too. 

Plan Your Garden

January is the perfect time to start planning your garden with the Planter App. With new features and plants being added, creating the garden of your dreams is easier than ever. Let Planter help make this your best gardening season yet!

Why Cold-Hardy Veggies?

Cold-hardy vegetables are a special group of plants that can handle chilly temperatures and even a touch of frost. These tough veggies are perfect for planting in the fall and winter, allowing you to extend your growing season and enjoy homegrown goodness even when the weather isn’t exactly balmy. Use the Planter App to identify cold hardy veggies that can handle a light frost or in some cases even a freeze!

Our Top 10 Picks for Your Winter Garden

Kale

This leafy green superstar is packed with nutrients and comes in a variety of colors and textures. Kale prefers well-drained soil and a spot with plenty of sunshine. Give it regular waterings, and you’ll be enjoying delicious salads and smoothies all winter long.

Varieties: ‘Lacinato’ (Dinosaur Kale): This variety has dark blue-green leaves with a savoyed (ruffled) texture. It’s known for its slightly sweeter flavor compared to other kales.

‘Red Russian’ Kale: This variety has red stems and purplish-green leaves with a milder, sweeter flavor. It’s also very ornamental!

‘Winterbor’ Kale: This variety is extremely cold-hardy, as the name suggests, and can tolerate temperatures down to -10°F. It has a slightly sweeter and more tender texture than other kales.

Spinach

Another nutritional powerhouse, spinach is a fast-growing cool-season crop. Like kale, it prefers full sun and well-drained soil. You can start harvesting baby spinach leaves in just a few weeks!

Varieties:

‘Bloomsdale Long Standing’ Spinach: A classic variety that’s slow to bolt (go to seed) and produces large, dark green leaves.

‘Space’ Spinach: This variety is resistant to downy mildew and produces baby spinach leaves that are perfect for salads.

‘Tyee’ Spinach: This variety is known for its high yields and resistance to bolting, making it a great choice for the Southeast.

Radishes

These little root vegetables are super easy to grow and add a peppery crunch to salads and sandwiches. Radishes prefer loose, sandy soil and mature in about a month.

Varieties:

‘Cherry Belle’ Radish: A popular variety that matures quickly (in about 22 days) and produces round, red roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor.

‘French Breakfast’ Radish: This variety has elongated, red roots with white tips and a slightly spicy flavor.

‘White Icicle’ Radish: This variety has long, white roots with a crisp texture and mild flavor. It’s also slower to bolt than other radishes.

Carrots

Believe it or not, carrots actually sweeten in flavor when grown in cool weather. Choose a variety with short roots for best results in the winter garden. Make sure your soil is loose and free of rocks to allow for proper root development.

Varieties:

‘Danvers Half Long’ Carrot: A classic variety that’s well-suited for heavy soils and produces medium-length, sweet roots.

‘Little Finger’ Carrot: This variety is perfect for the Southeast’s shorter growing season, as it matures quickly and produces small, tender roots.

‘Paris Market’ Carrot: This variety produces round, bite-sized roots that are perfect for snacking or roasting.

Lettuce

Enjoy fresh salads all winter long by planting cold-hardy lettuce varieties. Loose-leaf lettuce is a great option for beginners, as it can be harvested continuously. Provide your lettuce with partial shade and consistent moisture.

Varieties:

‘Black Seeded Simpson’ Lettuce: A popular loose-leaf variety with bright green, ruffled leaves and a mild flavor.

‘Winter Density’ Lettuce: This romaine lettuce variety is cold-hardy and can tolerate some frost. It has crisp, dark green leaves.

‘Red Sails’ Lettuce: This loose-leaf variety has beautiful red leaves with a mild flavor and adds a pop of color to salads.

Onions

Onions are a kitchen staple, and many varieties can be planted in the fall for a spring harvest. Choose onion sets or transplants for easiest planting. Onions need full sun and well-drained soil. Short-day onions grow best in mild winter climates, such as zone 7 or warmer.

Varieties:

‘Yellow Granex’ Onion (Vidalia): This variety is a favorite in the Southeast and produces large, sweet onions.

‘Red Creole’ Onion: This variety is known for its pungent flavor and beautiful red color.

‘White Bermuda’ Onion: This variety produces large, mild onions that are great for slicing.

Garlic

Plant garlic cloves in the fall, and you’ll be rewarded with flavorful bulbs in the spring. Garlic prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Don’t forget to mulch around your garlic plants to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Varieties:

‘Silverskin’ Garlic: This softneck variety is well-suited for the Southeast and produces large bulbs with a strong flavor.

‘Inchelium Red’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its rich, complex flavor and beautiful purple stripes.

‘Spanish Roja’ Garlic: This hardneck variety is known for its robust flavor and long storage life.

Turnips

Both the roots and greens of turnips are edible, making them a versatile addition to your winter garden. Turnips prefer full sun and loose, fertile soil. They’re also relatively fast-growing, maturing in about two months.

Varieties:

‘Purple Top White Globe’ Turnip: A classic variety with a purple top and white flesh. It has a mild, sweet flavor.

‘Hakurei’ Turnip: This Japanese variety has a sweet, delicate flavor and can be eaten raw or cooked.

‘Seven Top’ Turnip: This variety is grown primarily for its greens, which have a mild, spinach-like flavor.

Peas

Enjoy sweet, tender peas by planting them in the fall. Choose a variety that’s specifically bred for cool weather. Peas need full sun and something to climb on, like a trellis or fence.

Varieties:

‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ Pea: This snow pea variety is cold-tolerant and produces sweet, edible pods.

‘Wando’ Pea: This garden pea variety is heat- and cold-tolerant, making it a good choice for the Southeast.

‘Maestro’ Pea: This shelling pea variety is known for its high yields and sweet flavor.

Swiss Chard

This colorful leafy green is a close relative of spinach and beets. It’s packed with vitamins and minerals and can be used in a variety of dishes. Swiss chard prefers full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.

Varieties:

‘Bright Lights’ Swiss Chard: This variety has colorful stems in shades of red, pink, orange, and yellow, making it a beautiful addition to the garden.

‘Lucullus’ Swiss Chard: This variety has white stems and dark green leaves with a slightly savoyed texture.

‘Rhubarb Chard’ Swiss Chard: This variety has red stems and green leaves with a slightly tart flavor.

Additional Tips for Winter Gardening

Even though these veggies are tough, they can still use a little extra TLC during the colder months. Here are a few tips to help your winter garden thrive:

• Frost Protection: While these veggies can handle some cold, a hard frost can still damage them. If a freeze is predicted, protect your plants by covering them with a row cover or blanket overnight.
• Water Wisely: Plants need less water in the winter, so don’t over do it. Water deeply but less frequently, and make sure the soil has good drainage to prevent soggy roots.
• Feed Your Soil: Healthy soil means healthy plants! Amend your soil with compost or other organic matter to provide nutrients and improve drainage.
• Sunlight is Key: Even in winter, most vegetables need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Choose a sunny spot for your garden, and be mindful of shadows cast by buildings or trees.

Ready to enjoy fresh, homegrown veggies all winter long? By planting these cold-hardy varieties now, you can extend your harvest and savor the flavors of the season. Imagine the satisfaction of serving up a salad made with ingredients you grew yourself, even in the depths of winter!

Don’t forget to download the Planter App for more winter gardening tips, tricks, and personalized advice. Happy growing!

If you’re struggling to find a gift for the gardener that has everything fear not- we’ve got gifting ideas for even the most geared-out gardener!

Erin:

Garden marker

Regular ‘permanent’ markers usually become not-so-permanent in a garden! Between the rain and the UV rays from the sun, invariably the ink will fade. The garden marker stands up to the elements so it can be used for writing garden labels or labelling seedling trays without fear of losing track of which plants are where. Makes a great stocking stuffer for any gardener!

Hori hori knife

A hori hori knife is an extremely versatile garden tool. It can be used for both digging and slicing- useful when transplanting, dividing plants, and maybe even cutting out those too-far-gone weeds (not that we ever let them get that bad…right? 😅) The measuring guide on the side makes it easy to determine the correct depth when planting. This particular model from A.M. Leonard even comes with a handy twine cutter built in!

Speciality garden hoes

Garden hoes come in all kinds of shapes and sizes to tackle different weeding and gardening tasks. While it might feel like overkill to have more than one garden hoe, it really does make a difference to have ‘the right tool for the job’…and for any sizable garden area almost anything is better than hand weeding! Lee Valley has a great selection of garden hoes but one that is especially versatile is the trenching hoe.

Garden cart

While a garden cart might not be a glamorous garden gift, they are amongst the most practical gardening tools. Save time and backaches by wheeling around large amounts of compost and mulch rather than lugging them in a wheelbarrow. It’s also more efficient to cart around several trays of seedlings at once instead of making multiple trips back-and-forth. While there are many brands of garden carts available on the market, the Gorilla cart brand is well-known for its strength and durability.

Paper weed barrier

What gardener wouldn’t love to be given the gift of less weeding? This paper weed barrier from Lee Valley is an effective, eco-friendly way to cut down on weed pressure in the garden. It’s thicker than standard rolls of brown paper so it won’t tear easily. Simply roll out and cut the desired length, bury the edges with soil, then cut holes or slits to plant into.

Samantha: 

The Gardening Book by Monty Don

Monty Don might be the United Kingdom’s guru of all things gardening, but his excellent advice goes beyond the borders of Britain. The Gardening Book is a treasure trove of Monty’s horticultural expertise and includes information on small-space gardening, houseplants, shrubs, trees, and more. It is filled with beautiful pictures and, like all of Monty’s books, is a joy to read. 

The Healing Garden by Juliet Blankespoor

If you want to get a gift for someone who has taken an interest in herbalism, then The Healing Garden is a must-have book. The author, Juliet, has been growing, selling, and teaching about herbs for decades. The Healing Garden gives tips on cultivating, harvesting, and processing many different medicinal herbs. It’s filled with stunning photographs and easy-to-follow recipes. 

Sili Seedlings silicone seedling trays

Sili Seedling trays are the perfect gift for the gardener who loves reducing, reusing, and recycling!  Since the trays are made from silicone, they can be used repeatedly. They are easy to clean and can be sterilized in the dishwasher. They come in a lot of cool colors and sizes, too. 

Personalized engraved seed storage box

A custom-engraved seed storage box can be the perfect gift for the gardener with all the tools, gadgets, and seeds. This wooden box can be personalized and will make any gardener smile. There are many seed boxes on Etsy, but this shop has many 5-star ratings.

Peter

Custom Garden Sign

What do you gift the gardener who already has all the tools and equipment they need? A decorative sign so they can proudly proclaim that it’s their garden! I gifted a few of these last year from this Etsy shop and they turned out great.

GreenStalk Original Vertical Planter

You might have seen the GreenStalk Vertical Planter showcased on your favorite gardening YouTube channels…And for good reason! The GreenStalk is a super-versatile self-watering growing system that makes efficient use of vertical space to grow a ton of produce in a small footprint. The GreenStalk is made from high-quality, UV-resistant plastic and comes with a 5-year warranty- so it’s built strong and guaranteed to last! Use code PLANTERAPP to get $10 off your purchase of $75 or more.

Bootstrap Farmer Air Prune Propagation Tray

These propagation trays provide the benefit of ‘air pruning’ the roots of growing seedlings without the added learning curve and work of soil blocking. These Bootstrap Farmer Air Prune Propagation Trays are made with high-quality plastic that is built to last (and they come with a 2-year warranty!) so your giftee will get many years of life out of them. As an added bonus they come in a variety of colors- which is not only fun but also can be handy for grouping your seed starts!

Give the gift of Planter

Share the gift of the Planter gardening app with your family and friends this holiday season! Gift them a Planter Premium subscription so they can easily plan and manage their garden anytime, anywhere! We don’t have our own Planter branded gift cards (yet!) but you can gift them a Google Play or Apple App store gift card and point them to the Planter app. If your giftee already enjoys the perks of a Planter Premium subscription, why not gift them some snazzy Planter merch instead?

Different Methods

There are different ways to make an herbal-infused oil. The easiest way is known as the folk method. Herbs are placed in a jar, covered with your choice of oil, and left to sit for a few weeks.  Dried herbs are usually preferred over fresh because your oil is more likely to grow mold when you use fresh plant material. That said, if you take specific measures, you can make an oil with fresh plants.  Sometimes, fresh plants are preferred for certain infusions, like when making St. John’s Wort oil. 

Use the warm method if you don’t have a few weeks to wait for an infusion.  Dried herbs are still placed in a jar and covered with oil, but they are heated at low temperatures for a few hours up to a few days.  The most common way to do this is in a crockpot on low (in a water bath or lay a towel underneath the jars). This is faster than the folk method, but you must stir the mixture regularly and ensure it isn’t getting too hot. It’s also a good idea not to leave the crockpot completely unattended. 

Which Oil to Choose

What you want to do with your oil can help you decide which oil to choose. Olive oil is a popular choice for herbal infusions because it does not go rancid as quickly as other oils. It’s also fairly neutral in smell. Olive oil is a good choice for most skin types, and it is not known to clog the skin, but it can feel too heavy for some.  Olive oil is a good choice for salve-making.  Avocado oil is also good for salves, and since it’s “heavy,” it’s a good choice for soap making. 

Some oils that feel light on the skin are argan, apricot, and meadowfoam. 

Whatever you choose, it’s always best to use an oil that is “cold-pressed” or “expeller-pressed.” This means that no weird chemicals or damaging heat were used to make the oil.  Cold-pressed oils have the best shelf life.

Herbs

Several herbs can benefit the skin:

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)-This superstar herb soothes skin, promotes wound healing, and is gentle enough for the whole family.

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)-used for stubborn wounds that need a little extra care. (do not use comfrey over deep wounds due to concerns about pyrrolizidine alkaloids).

Lavender -has anti-inflammatory properties and makes a great base for homemade whipped body butter.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) -is known to have anti-fungal and antiseptic properties. 

A note of caution: while using herbally infused oils is generally very safe, everyone reacts differently to plants.  A patch test can be helpful to determine if you will tolerate a new herb. Rub a dot of herbal oil on your inner wrist and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation appears. If you are allergic to certain plants, always know what family an herb belongs to before using it.  

The Folk Method Way to Infuse Oil

Supplies needed:

A clean jar with a lid

Enough dried herbs to fill your jar halfway

A small piece of wax paper (if you’re using a metal canning lid for your jar)

Oil

Supplies for when it’s time to strain:

Coffee filter or cheesecloth/muslin 

Funnel 

A clean jar

Amber bottle 

Infuse the Oil

1. Grind your dried herbs using a mortar and pestle, crumble them by hand, or chop them up. This ensures a good extraction of the herb constituents or healing properties.
2. Fill a jar halfway with the dried herbs.
3. Cover the herbs oil, but leave ½-1 inch of space at the top. You do not want to overfill the jar. The herbs are going to soak up the oil and expand.  If your jar is too full, you might experience an oil leak.  If your jar isn’t full enough, you could expose your mixture to too much air, leading to a shorter shelf life. 
4. Label your jar with the type of herb(s) and oil used. Put the date on your label to track how long it has been infusing.  Masking tape is a good label because it comes off easily. 
5. Place the jar in an area that is reasonably warm and dark. Some herbalists prefer to infuse their oils in the sun, and in some cases, such as when making a St. John’s Wort-infused oil, this is the traditional way. I always infuse St. John’s Wort oil in the sun (and with freshly wilted flowers), but I keep all other infusions in the dark. It helps protect your oil from any deterioration from the sun. 
6. Let the oil infuse for 4-6 weeks. Remember to check on it and give it a gentle shake or roll every day or so. Resist the urge to open the jar to see what’s happening. You want to avoid exposure to the air as much as possible. 

Time to Strain

1. After 4-6 weeks, it’s time to strain. If you go over 6 weeks, it’s not a big deal; nothing bad will happen. Infused oil has a shelf life, so it’s best to get it to use. 
2. To filter your oil, you will need a clean jar, a funnel, cheesecloth, or a coffee filter. A regular mesh strainer will generally not filter out all the tiny bits of herbs very well. 
3. Place the funnel into the jar and line it with the cheesecloth or coffee filter.  Carefully pour your mixture over the filter.  It takes a while for the oil to filter, especially if you use a coffee filter.
4. After a while, you can use a clean spoon to press down on the herbs to help extract the oils they have soaked up. Or, with clean hands, you can very carefully squeeze the filter or cheesecloth to get every last drop you can. You can compost the herbs afterwards.
5. Sometimes, even after good filtering, you can be left with cloudy debris of herbal sediment. Let your oil settle to the bottom, and slowly pour it into another jar, trying to avoid the sediment. Or you can filter that oil one more time. 
6. A couple of drops of Vitamin E can be added to help maintain the oil’s freshness. It does not kill germs, but it helps fight oxidation.
7. Your oil is now ready for bottling or being used in making salves or other herbal products.  
8. Bottle the oil in dark-colored bottles or jars. This helps protect the oil from light and air. Use bottles with small necks. Store the oil in a cool, dark location. Always use clean hands when dispensing oil. Properly stored herbal oils, on average, last around a year. 
9. Label the bottle with the type of oil used, the herb(s) used, and the date it was made. 

Herbal oils are perfect for gift making.

Look out for a video on how to make an herbal infusion, on our YouTube channel.

We here on the Planter Team wanted to share a few of our favorite recipes to make use of our fall harvests. We hope you’ll take ideas and inspiration from these recipes to use up your own garden bounty this fall!

Rhubarb jelly (and other preserves) - Contributed by Wren

I grew up making jams and jellies with my mom. She’d wake us up early on the weekend and we’d drive out to a U-Pick Strawberry field where we’d spend hours trying to get our money’s worth by filling up buckets and punnets to the brim with sweet little berries. Then we’d come home and spend the rest of the day (if not two) making jar after jar of some of the best jams I’ve ever had. I always complained about the process as a kid, but as I grew older I started noticing how fond I was of the process of jam making, and now that I’m an adult I miss those days a lot. I most often think about strawberry jam in the summer, but in the fall, that was the best time for rhubarb jelly. As someone who messes up their jams and jellies a lot more than my mom does, this recipe is pretty easy to follow (rhubarb jelly recipe: https://creativecanning.com/rhubarb-jelly/).

One of my favorite things about this recipe is how many variations you can make with it. It could just be rhubarb jelly, or you can add strawberry, or apple juice, or cinnamon! This jelly can either give you a burst of summer or fall flavor depending on what you decide to put in it.

The base ingredients are:

• 1½ lbs. Rhubarb
• 4 cups granulated sugar
• One package powdered regular pectin (1.75 oz.)

Although jelly is most often used on toast or English muffins, my favorite bread of choice to pair this jelly with is a warm, homemade waffle! Creative Canning suggests using this jelly also as a glaze for grilled meats! I’m going to have to try this.

Here are a few of my other favorite fall preserve recipes:

Bread and butter pickles: https://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/bread-and-butter-pickles/

Sweet pickle relish: https://www.savingdessert.com/homemade-sweet-pickle-relish-garden-to-table/

Salsa: https://www.delishknowledge.com/the-best-homemade-salsa-for-canning/

Zucchini bread - Contributed by Wren

Last summer, my partner and I grew 8 ball squash in our garden for the first time and it made the most delicious zucchini bread! Unfortunately, the squash beetles got to the plant and completely destroyed it, so we were settled on not growing any gourds this year to hopefully be rid of the squash beetles. To our surprise, one of the old 8 ball squashes must have self-seeded because we had a new squash plant pop up all on its own in the middle of summer! And you know what that means…We gotta make zucchini bread.

I made banana and zucchini bread a lot growing up, but my partner wanted to try out making it himself. He’s really fond of this recipe: https://smittenkitchen.com/2019/08/ultimate-zucchini-bread/ because of how crispy the top can get. He said the trick is to leave it uncovered so the top doesn’t get moist (and he was right!).

You’ll need:

• 2 cups (13 ounces or 370 grams) grated, packed zucchini (or 8 ball squash), not wrung out, grated on the large holes of a box grater
• 2 large eggs
• 2/3 cup (160 ml) of a neutral oil (I use safflower), olive oil, or melted unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup (95 grams) packed dark brown sugar
• 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon fine sea or table salt
• 1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
• 1/8 teaspoon ground or freshly grated nutmeg
• 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 2 cups (260 grams) all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons (25 grams) raw or turbinado sugar

The recipe does a good job walking you through all the steps so I highly recommend looking it up. And I have to say, it’s definitely one of the best zucchini breads I’ve ever had.

Acorn squash boats with sausage and apples - Contributed by Samantha

I’ve had an excellent little crop of “Honey Bear” acorn squash this season, so I’ve been cooking up different variations of “squash boats.” Basically, you bake halved-squash and then fill them with a mix of rice, meat, veggies, cheese, or anything you want. This recipe is a mix of several recipes I have found online. It’s easy to personalize to your liking and add or remove ingredients.

Ingredients:

• Olive oil (or any other light cooking oil)
• 3 medium to large acorn squash
• ½ of a large red onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 ½ pounds of ground pork sausage (or you can substitute rice, which would be around 7 cups of cooked rice)
• 1 large apple, chopped I like to use a sweet variety such as Honeycrisp
• 1-2 packed cups of chopped kale
• Salt
• Pepper

Optional ingredients: a few sprigs of fresh rosemary or 1 fresh sage leaf chopped up, a sprinkling of parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Slice the acorn squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds (save them for next years’ planting, of course). Place the halved squash upright on a baking sheet and drizzle lightly with olive oil.

Cook for 40-60 minutes until the squash is tender when pierced with a fork.

While the squash is baking, heat a large skillet on medium heat and add some olive oil. Add the onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the sausage and cook for around 5 minutes. (If you are using rice instead, wait until the end to add it.)

Add the garlic and apples and cook for about another 5 minutes. Add the chopped kale and continue cooking until the sausage is browned and the apple pieces are tender. Add salt and pepper to your taste. At this point, you can add any additional herbs, such as rosemary or sage. Remove the cooked squash from the baking tray to your plate. Fill your squash “boat” with the mixture from the skillet. You can add red pepper flakes or a sprinkle of parmesan cheese for extra flavor!

Roasted mixed fall veggies - Contributed by Erin

Roasting veggies is one of my all-time favorite ways to use up extra garden produce in the fall! Making roasted veggies is less about following a specific list of ingredients and more about working with the veggies you have on hand. That being said, one of our family’s all-time favorite veggies for roasting is parsnips. We tried them on a whim one Thanksgiving (store-bought) and loved their sweet, starchy, almost ginger-y taste. Now roasted veggies with parsnips are a must-have on our Thanksgiving and Christmas menus, and parsnips are a must-grow in the garden!

The original roasted mixed veggie recipe we followed was this this recipe for Roasted Vegetables from Betty Crocker. For our favorite holiday variation we replace some or all of the potatoes with parsnips and stick to the recipe mostly as written. But for everyday cooking we use this as a rough guide and swap in whatever veggies and herbs we have on hand (or, leave some out!) I find for tougher veggies like parsnips and beets it can be helpful to microwave them for several minutes first before roasting to help even out the cooking time with the more tender veggies.

What is soil pH and why does it matter?

pH stands for potential hydrogen, and in the garden it is a measurement of the amount of hydrogen ions in the soil (technically in a soil solution). pH is measured by a numerical scale ranging from 0.0 to 14.0 although soil pH will never reach the extreme ends of the scale. Lower numbers are acidic, higher numbers are alkaline (aka ‘basic’), and a pH of 7.0 is neutral- neither acidic nor alkaline. It’s a bit counter-intuitive, but the higher the pH the less hydrogen there is in the soil and the lower the pH the more hydrogen. The pH of the soil affects the availability of nutrients for your plants, so it’s important to have right soil pH for the plants you grow. If the soil pH is either too acidic or too alkaline, nutrients will be bound too tightly or too loosely for plants to use.

What pH should my soil be? (*hint, check Planter!)

As a rough guideline, the optimal soil pH for growing fruits and vegetables is generally between 6.0 - 7.0. To confirm the preferred pH range for each of the plants that you grow, check out the new Soil pH Quick Info Card in Planter!

While many plants can tolerate a somewhat wide pH range, they do have individual preferences and there are a some plants with very particular pH needs.

How can I test my soil pH?

The best way to test your soil pH is to send a soil sample to your local extension office or to a reputable soil testing lab. You’ll likely want to test multiple areas in your garden as the pH can vary from bed to bed; be sure to keep track of your samples and follow the lab’s soil sampling instructions carefully for accurate results. While lab tests can be somewhat pricey, you’ll learn lots of valuable information about your soil and how to best to amend it. Check your local extension office first as many offer this service for free or at a reduced cost.

Another option is to buy a soil pH meter or a home soil test kit. There are even ways to do DIY soil pH tests with materials you might already have at home. While at-home home testing isn’t as precise as lab testing, if the test is done properly you should at least get an indication of whether you have highly acidic or alkaline soil that could cause your plants to struggle. If the at-home test suggests there could be a problem with your soil pH, you’ll want to follow up with a lab test before using any pH-altering amendments. A lab test will help you determine the right amendment application rates for your soil.

Changing your soil pH

How to raise soil pH

If you only need to raise your soil pH slightly, applying compost can help to bring the pH into an optimal range. Compost has an ideal pH for growing veggies and by working it into your soil it can help to buffer your soil pH. If your soil is fairly acidic and you need to raise the pH significantly, you’ll want to apply lime to the soil. There are different types of lime available - garden lime (aka agricultural lime) is calcium carbonate which will add calcium to the soil along with raising the pH. Dolomitic lime, another common product for raising soil pH, will also add magnesium. If you know your soil is deficient in magnesium you may want to use dolomitic lime.

It typically takes some time for soil microbes to break down the lime and raise the soil pH, so you’ll want to apply lime in the fall for the soil to be ready for spring planting.

How to lower soil pH

If your soil is only slightly alkaline, incorporating compost can also help to buffer the alkalinity. To acidify your soil significantly, you’ll need to apply a sulfur or sulfate product. Generally in the home garden it’s best to use elemental sulfur (sometimes called agricultural sulfur). It will take time for the sulfur to acidify the soil so it’s ideal to apply it in fall for spring planting. Some sources also suggest using peat moss to lower soil pH however according to the Iowa State University Extension Office only Canadian sphagnum peat moss can effectively lower soil pH (and it’s best used in a contained space in conjunction with sulfur for acid-loving plants).

Keep in mind that changing your soil pH generally isn’t a one-time event; you’ll need to continue monitoring the pH and adding amendments as necessary to maintain the recommended range. If you’re struggling to change your soil pH, gardening in raised beds or containers could be a good alternative as it’s easier to achieve and maintain the right pH in a contained spot. Container growing is also a good option for plants with unique pH needs, such as blueberries, which require an unusually acidic soil that most other plants won’t appreciate.

While soil pH usually isn’t top of mind in the garden, it’s one of the most important factors for healthy plants. Whether you’re starting a brand-new garden or improving existing garden beds, be sure to pay attention to your soil pH so your plants can flourish!

Dried Bouquets

Dried flower bouquets let you extend the beauty of cut flowers well past summertime.  You can personalize your bouquet with the receiver’s favorite flowers. You can also use seed heads and foliage of plants in addition to the flowers. The best time to cut flowers is after any dew has dried and right before they are in full bloom. Gather your bouquet and secure the bunch with garden string or a rubber band.   Hang upside down in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area for a few weeks. Dried bouquets make great decorations that can brighten up any space. Some good plants for dried bouquets are lavender, yarrow, poppy seed heads, grasses, sunflowers, and roses. 

Dried Fruit and Vegetables

Fruit and vegetables can be dried and then packaged up for gift-giving.  Dried fruit makes a tasty snack or oatmeal topper.  Dried vegetables can be used in soups, pasta dishes, and more.  A dehydrator works best for drying produce, but fruit high in sugar and acid can be dried outside in the sun.  Most tomatoes are high in acid and so can be sun-dried. Be sure to research the best techniques for drying your own garden pickings. 

Pressed Flowers

Flower pressing is a hobby that goes back quite a long time. Pressing flowers is one of the easiest ways to enjoy your garden in a tangible way. There are some really neat flower presses you can buy. Otherwise, you can flatten flowers between a piece of wax paper and use books to press down on the plants for a couple of weeks. The secret is to use plants that are not too bulky or full of moisture. Suggested plants are roses, calendula flowers, yarrow, ferns, lavender, daisies, California poppies, Queen Anne’s lace, and zinnias. After a couple of weeks of pressing, check to see if the plant is fully dried, and look out for mold. If there is any mold, sadly, it needs to be tossed. There are so many things you can make with pressed plants. You can make greeting cards and gift tags, decorative pictures using clear panes, and more. 

Herbal Tea

If you have an abundance of chamomile flowers, consider using them as part of an herbal tea gift basket. Combine your flowers with a loose tea leaf infuser, and you have a gift that promotes relaxation. Other good herbal teas are lemon balm, rose petals, sage, lemon verbena, or any combination.  

Kitchen Spices

Almost everyone can appreciate a homegrown gift of dried spices. We all have to eat, so dried kitchen spices can be a universally loved gift! It’s a great way to use that extra harvest of rosemary, sage, or thyme.  For garlic lovers, you could give up a few cloves or a whole garlic braid if you’re generous. 

Lavender Hot Chocolate Mix

For something unique, lavender hot chocolate mix can be easily made at home. Harvest some lavender cuttings and hang them to dry upside down. English varieties are best to use for flavoring.  In a couple of weeks, after they are fully dry, collect the dried flower buds by stripping them off of the stems.  Mix 1 TBSP of dried flower buds into 1 cup of your favorite premade hot cocoa mix, or make your own blend. Dried lavender is pretty strong in flavor, so you can use less if you like. Package in a jar and label.  You could make a pretty label with pressed flowers, too!

Herbal Bath Soak

Dried herbs can be mixed with Epsom salt to enhance bath time.  Chamomile and lavender are a fantastic mix for a sleepy-time bath blend.  Sage and rosemary can be supportive to use during a cold.  You can also add different kinds of salts for color and relaxation.  Dead sea salt can give your mix a luxurious spa feeling. Pink Himalayan salt adds a fun color.  Add layers of salt and dried herbs in a jar.  Get creative.  Rose petals are a classic herbal bath addition.  Add a muslin bag to contain the herbs to avoid any mess in the bath. 

Time to Start Planning

Handmade gifts take effort, so give yourself plenty of time. Making gifts with your plants is a fun way to connect to your garden. If friends and family enjoy spending time in your garden, then chances are they will be moved by a thoughtful gift that came from the source. Happy gifting!

What Should Pets Eat?

There are debates about the “right” diet for cats and dogs. In the wild, dogs are omnivores.  They eat meat, of course, but they also eat the stomachs of animals, which are usually full of fermenting plant material. Cats’ stomachs are very acidic, so they can survive primarily on meat.  However, plant fiber can help feed the bacteria in cats’ stomachs.  Some people feed their pets kibble, some choose wet food, some cook their pet’s meals from scratch, and some feed pets raw food. Ultimately, the choice is up to you, but if you want to give your pets some home-grown treats or you hope to enhance their health, sharing your garden bounty is a good way to do so. 

It’s important to note that animals’ bodies digest and process some plants differently than us, and sometimes the wrong food can be harmful. Start with a small amount when giving your pet a new food for the first time. If you are feeding your pets packaged dried fruit, be sure xylitol isn’t used as a sweetener because it is toxic to animals. PetMD.com is a good place to find out which fruits and vegetables are safe for cats.  The American Kennel Club has good information regarding dogs.  It’s always a good idea to check with your pet’s vet before introducing new foods, especially if they have health concerns.

Dogs

Some dogs love fruit and veggies, and some want nothing to do with them! If your dog wants nothing to do with fresh veggies, you can try cooking them and adding them to your dog’s food.  Fruit and veg can be an excellent way to add fiber to your pet’s diet, which can be lacking in kibble.

According to the AKC, here are some safe fruit and vegetables for dogs (not a complete list): 

• Apples- make sure they don’t eat too many seeds
• Bananas- try blending up frozen bananas and peanut butter for a dog smoothie
• Blueberries- frozen blueberries are a nice treat on a hot day!
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cantaloupe
• Carrots- carrots make a good chew toy (supervise your pet so they don’t choke)
• Celery
• Cranberries- know any dogs who like them?
• Cucumbers
• Green beans- cooked green beans are a hit with a lot of dogs
• Ginger- technically an herb, but good for upset digestive systems
• Peaches
• Pears
• Peas
• Pumpkin-a great base for homemade dog treats and pumpkin seeds have essential fatty acids 
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes- small amounts of ripe tomatoes are okay
• Strawberries
• Watermelon

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Asparagus- difficult for dogs to digest properly
• Avocado
• Cherries- the pits, stems, and leaves can cause problems
• Chives
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions

According to the AKC, citrus and spinach are potentially safe but it’s better to avoid them. Dogs should only be fed cooked potatoes in small amounts, and they should never be fed green potatoes. Dogs shouldn’t eat green tomatoes or any part of a tomato plant.

Cats

Cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so most don’t like fruit. Most cats will pick a platter of tuna over a pile of green beans, but if you have a cat with a sophisticated palette, you can try some snacks from the garden. If your cat won’t try fresh produce, you can dehydrate the fruit or veggies, then powder them, and sprinkle a little on their food. And of course, cats (and dogs) usually love catnip!

Safe fruit and vegetables according to PetMD (not a complete list):

• Apples
• Asparagus
• Bananas
• Blueberries
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cantaloupe
• Cranberries
• Cucumber
• Ginger- an herb that’s good for upset digestive systems 
• Pear
• Peas
• Peppers
• Pumpkin
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Chives
• Citrus
• Garlic
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions
• Rhubarb

The same applies to potatoes for cats and dogs: cook potatoes before serving and never feed them green potatoes.  Cats can have tiny pieces of ripe tomatoes. They should never eat green tomatoes or any other part of a tomato plant.

Other Pets: 

Birds:

Birds can and should eat a lot of fruit and vegetables. This website is a good resource for learning more about what is safe. Avoid garlic, onions, avocados, and head lettuce varieties that are high in water content. 

Gerbils and Hamsters:

Be mindful of the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables that hamsters and gerbils eat. Too many snacks high in water content can cause gastrointestinal distress. Keep your serving sizes small. These pets can safely enjoy apples, bananas, berries, lettuce, kale, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and more!  

Rabbits:

These veggie lovers will eat almost every plant in a garden! However, rabbits are not recommended to eat onions, leeks, garlic, raw potatoes, or iceberg lettuce. Dark and leafy lettuce is okay. 

Fish: 

I was surprised to learn that pet fish can eat treats from the garden. You might want to research all of the things that different types of fish can eat, but some produce fish can eat (according to research online, I am not a fish expert) are cucumber, lettuce, carrots, pieces of pumpkin, apples, pears, berries, and zucchini.  Word on the internet says to avoid oranges and watermelon.

Peter, the creator of Planter, gives his fish red lettuce that has bolted. They love it!

Next time you’re out harvesting, see if anything sparks your pet’s interest.  Their favorite garden treat might surprise you!

Paper Bag Method

The paper bag method is nice because it doesn’t require anything fancy.  Place your herbs in a clean paper bag, ensuring not to fill it too much because good air circulation is critical for successful drying. Leave the bag somewhere with good airflow, that is above 65 degrees F. This method doesn’t work very well if you put the bags in a cool and damp place. If you can hang the bag up on a hook, that helps with proper airflow; if not, you can use a fan in the area.  If you live somewhere very humid, you might want to add a dehumidifier to the room. Some good herbs to try this method are chamomile, rose petals, sage, thyme, yarrow, etc.  If you are trying this with roots, you must have the roots cut up into small chunks and you must keep the room warm and with low humidity. For roots, I strongly recommend investing in a dehydrator.  Each paper bag should only have one kind of plant, and it’s a good idea to write the plant’s name on the outside of the bag.

Hang Drying

You can dry bunches of herbs with long stems by tying their stems with twine or using rubber bands and hanging them upside down on a hook or a hanging drying rack. Clothes drying racks can be put to use for drying herbs. Keep them somewhere well-ventilated, out of direct sunlight, and away from steam, condensation, or moisture sources in the air. This is the preferred way to dry lavender, especially if you want to keep dried bunches for decor. 

Drying Racks

Herbs can be laid on top of mesh drying racks, allowing air to circulate all around. Keep racks out of direct light and in a well-ventilated area. Stir the herbs around every few days. You can find racks in stores, online, or even make your own out of an old window screen. 

Dehydrator

If you plan on drying a lot of herbs or want a fast(ish) way to dry herbs, then you might want to use a dehydrator. Using a dehydrator is the most reliable way to dry roots.  Dehydrators come in many styles and budgets. When using a dehydrator, you don’t want the temperature to go above 100 degrees F, as this can compromise the quality of the herbs.  A suitable average temperature for herb drying is 85-90.  While herbs are drying, it can be helpful to stir them occasionally.  Drying times can vary depending on how much you are processing. A dehydrator assures you that those tougher-to-dry herbs, like calendula, with their resin-rich centers, won’t mold during storage. It’s worth mentioning dehydrators can give off a lot of heat, which can be unwelcome if it’s already hot in the area you are dehydrating.

Ready for Storage

Herbs can be stored when they crumble easily, or their stems can be snapped in half cleanly. If they are bendy or soft at all, they are not ready. If there is even just a little moisture left, herbs can mold. If you dry your herbs on stems, you can remove them from the stem. Stems don’t hold much goodness in a plant. Cut roots in half to check if they are thoroughly dried.  Dried herbs are freshest if you keep them in their whole form. They tend to lose potency faster if you crush or powder them before you are ready to use them. The best containers to store herbs in are air-tight glass ones.  You can use plain old Mason jars.  Try to keep your jars in a dark area and out of light. Light can degrade the quality of herbs. Always label your jars with the plants’ names, and you can add the date that you jarred them up. If you keep your herbs in a cool and dark place, dried flowers and leaves can stay potent for a year or more. Roots can stay vibrant even longer.  If your stored herbs have lost their smell and look less than vital, it’s time to compost them.

Some herbs can be frozen for use in the kitchen. Sage, lemon balm, rosemary, and bay leaves can be frozen in plastic bags or ice cube trays.  

Moldy Herbs

If herbs aren’t thoroughly dried before they are stored, mold can grow. If you find mold on any of your stored herbs, it’s best to compost that batch.  It can be disheartening to throw away a whole jar of herbs, but mold spores are present, and it’s not worth risking your health. 

Having your own stash of dried herbs is an amazing way to connect with your garden, even when the first days of winter arrive. Give it a try this season! Check the Planter app for more information on harvesting herbs.

Harvest Timelines

• Harvest aromatic herbs like basil, lemon balm, sage, and oregano just as the flowers are beginning to open. This is when the volatile oil levels are strongest, giving you a more flavorful or potent herb. You can use sharp scissors to remove leaves individually or snip stems with the leaves attached.
• Flowers and the tops of flowering herbs like yarrow, chamomile, and roses are best picked right as they are starting to bloom or not too long afterwards.
• Dill and fennel seeds can be collected right before they begin to dry, so they are still highly aromatic. You can cut the flower head off and hang it upside down to dry, then put a paper bag around the flower head to collect the dropping seeds.
• Herb roots and rhizomes are usually harvested in the fall when the plant is dying back and sending all of its constituents to be stored in the root for winter.  Check back this fall for the steps on how to harvest and dry roots.

To Wash, or Not to Wash?

If you are planning on using culinary herbs fresh in your cooking, then you can rinse them off with some water just as you would vegetables. You can rinse your herbs prior to drying them too. Lay them out to dry after rinsing before you move on to the drying process. Not everyone does this because it may increase the chances of the herbs holding onto moisture and molding in storage. You can also spray your herbs with a garden hose a day before you harvest them; that way, they’ll have time to dry off before harvesting. Washing herbs before harvest may increase the time it takes to dry them. If you don’t spray your herbs with chemicals, you keep your pets out of your garden, and you don’t see dirt on them, you don’t necessarily have to wash herbs, especially if you’re concerned about increasing chances of molding. Either way, after harvesting, you should look through the herbs and remove any damaged or diseased-looking plant parts.

More Tips

• It’s best to harvest on a dry day, just after dew has evaporated, and before any extreme heat.
• Be mindful not to take too many leaves or flowers from one plant at a time, as this can stress the plant and sometimes lead to its demise. 
• Only harvest your herbs when you have time to start the drying process.  Plants start breaking down pretty quickly, so you want to process them as fast as possible. An exception is for herbs like chamomile and calendula that have these teeny tiny bugs crawling all over them. I like to let those bugs have a chance to move out before I dry, so I let them hang out in the shade for a while. I don’t really want a bunch of bugs in my dried herbs!
• Use a large bag or loose-weaved basket to avoid crushing your herbs while harvesting. 
• Only harvest what you think you will use. This can be tricky to determine sometimes, especially during your first year harvesting a plant.
• If you plan on saving seeds for next year, remember that before you harvest too much of a plant.

Harvesting your own herbs is so rewarding! When you’re ready to learn the best practices for drying herbs, make sure to read this next post in the herbs series!

How Do Weeds Get in my Garden?

Even if you’ve been weeding your garden for years and have never seen a toxic or poisonous plant, weeds are always on the move. Their goal is to get around as much as possible. Some weed seeds are spread by the wind, and some by birds.  Some seeds can lay dormant in the soil for years only to spring to life after being stirred by digging or animals. If you are starting a garden from scratch, some good advice is to dig your beds and then let them sit undisturbed for a couple of weeks; that way, if weed seeds germinate, you can turn them into the soil.  Below, you’ll find some common weeds that you should get to know.

Nettles

Stinging nettles get their name for an apparent reason. If you touch the plant, you will experience a burning and stinging sensation, sometimes lasting for hours after the encounter. Very unpleasant, yes, but not life-threatening. Nettles are loved by many for their edible and herbal uses and are valued for their high mineral content. Once nettles are wilted or dried, they are unable to sting. One person’s “weed” is another’s treasure. They’re not very menacing, but you should get to know them, especially if you live in a wooded area or along a stream or river. Stinging nettles can be found worldwide, especially in Europe, Canada, and the United States. 

Wild Carrot

Daucus carota, or wild carrot, can be found all over the world in fields, meadows, and roadsides.  The young leaves, roots, and seeds are all considered edible (do not eat during pregnancy), and many people forage for wild carrots.  So why is it on this “watch out list”? It’s rare, but some people can get a painful rash after touching wild carrot sap. Also, wild carrots are related to some very poisonous plants and can be mixed up with other plants if you don’t know what they look like, so it might be a good idea to learn about them. 

Foxglove

Foxglove is a beautiful plant that you can find at many nurseries. The flowers are an essential part of the cottage garden look.  If your environment is just right, you might find some of these beauties pop up in your garden bed, probably spread by the wind.  As welcome as they might be, it’s worth noting that if they are ingested, they can be deadly.  Foxglove has cardiac glycosides known as digoxin, that can affect the heart.  Something to remember if you have small children, curious pets, or are new to herbalism, as the leaves can look similar to some medicinal herbs. Modern medicine uses foxglove to make medicines for the heart, but don’t try it at home. 

Poison Oak and Ivy

If you live in North America, you may have heard about poison oak or poison ivy.  If you’re unlucky, maybe you’ve experienced the horrible rash they can give you. Unfortunately, I am familiar with it. You will probably not encounter any in your garden. Still, poison ivy and oak can thrive in a variety of conditions, so it doesn’t hurt to learn (the rash hurts worse!). Poison ivy and poison oak are different species, but both have urushiol oil, which gives the leaves a shiny appearance.  Just brushing against it can be enough to bring on the rash. As the saying goes, “leaves of three, let it be!”. But if you can’t let it be, whatever method you decide to take against it (physically removing or chemically), wear pants, long sleeves, and disposable gloves to be cautious. Wash your clothing afterward; the oil can stick to clothing and transfer to the skin. 

Giant Hogweed

Giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) is a native of Asia but can be found in Europe, parts of Canada, and parts of the United States. If you touch the sap of giant hogweed and expose yourself to sunlight, you will experience photo-dermatitis or burning blisters. It’s reportedly very painful and much worse than any poison oak or ivy rash. The sap can damage your eyes if they get touched. Giant hogweed lives up to its name by reaching heights between 15-20 feet tall. Giant hogweed looks similar to some other Apiaceae family members. If it’s still in its rosette stage of growth (where the leaves are growing close to the ground before a stalk comes up, usually in the first year), it can be hard to identify. If you think you found some on your property, do not touch it. Many states require you to call a hotline and report it if you ever come across some.

Poison Hemlock

If you only have time to research one family of plants, I suggest you learn about the Apiaceae family. Another problematic member of this group is poison hemlock. Native to Europe, North Africa, and parts of Asia, the National Park Service says that poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) is now found in every state in the U.S. It’s also becoming more common in Canada, Australia, and South America. All parts of this plant are poisonous to humans and many animals. The sap won’t cause the same burns as hogweed, but it can cause a rash. If the plant is ingested, it can cause seizures, coma, or death. Some people seem more sensitive to it than others, and there have been reports of people getting sick from unknowingly pulling it with bare hands. Children are especially vulnerable to accidental poisoning.

This plant loves disturbed soil (such as when creating a new garden bed), and the seeds can lay dormant for up to 6 years. It starts as a low-growing rosette resembling a light green fern. It can range from 2-10 feet tall. It can be identified by its splotchy reddish-purple stalk. The stalk is completely smooth and hollow. If you pull one out, it will have an unpleasant smell. It’s recommended that you get a professional to help with the removal. If you are determined to remove it yourself, wear disposable gloves, protective eye gear, long sleeves and pants. It’s recommended to wear a mask to minimize the risk of inhaling the “fumes” it puts out when its removed. Do not burn or compost the pulled weeds. Dispose of them in a trash. Weed-whacking the plants is not recommended either.

Although poison hemlock is usually found on the side of roads and fields, I recently found some growing between gravel in my garden path and among some lilies.  My neighbor had one show up in a pot, which grew several feet tall with flowers, until they realized what it was. 

Toxic and Poisonous Plants in Your Area

You can get to know the local weeds in your area by visiting the extensions website local to your area. You may never need to deal with these weeds, but knowledge is power. If you familiarize yourself withe them now, you can save yourself from an unfortunate incident in the future.

Supplies needed:

• One healthy basil plant (preferably one that has not flowered yet)
• Scissors or trimmers
• A jar or propagating vessel
• Water

How to Take Basil Cuttings

1. Choose a stem that is 2-4 inches tall.
2. Trim just below the leaf nodes.
3. Strip the lower leaves off of the stem, about two inches up. Make sure to leave at least two leaves up top attached to the stem. 
4. Place your cuttings into clean water.  Basil doesn’t need to be dipped into rooting hormone to develop roots, especially if you do this in the spring and summer months when there is a lot of natural light.  
5. Place your cuttings in an area with a lot of natural light, like a window sill.
6. Change the water every couple of days.

Wait for Roots to Develop

Roots should start appearing in about 2-3 weeks. After you have roots around 1-2 inches long, they can be potted up or moved directly into the garden. If you pot them, use a good soil mixture; basil likes moist soil. In summer, you can plant the cuttings directly into the ground or garden bed. Basil likes heat so if it’s still getting cold at night, it’s best to keep it in a pot until it warms up.

Repeat

Once your transplanted cuttings get established, you can take cuttings from those plants and keep the process going as long as you want. Once frost returns, it’s time to move the basil back inside, of course.

This video shows the process:

It really is that easy to keep the basil-goodness going all summer and beyond. It’s like getting plants for free! A few more herbs you can propagate in water are: rosemary, sage, and oregano.

If you’re looking for more budget-friendly garden tips for this season, check out this post: 

Harnessing Local Resources for Your Garden

Through my research (and trial, and plenty of error) I’ve learned some microgreen growing tips that you might find helpful if you’re also new to the world of growing microgreens.

What are the easiest microgreens to grow?

The first thing I learned is that some types of microgreens are easier to grow for newbies. In the past I just tried to grow whatever seeds I had on hand in bulk, but just like with garden plants, some microgreens are easier to grow than others. Radish, pea, and sunflower are some of the easiest microgreens to grow as they germinate easily and grow quickly. Although pea and sunflower microgreens are easy to grow, the seeds do benefit from a pre-soaking step before seeding.

Amaranth, basil, beets, and carrots are some examples of microgreens that can be harder to grow, due to more sporadic germination and/or slower growth. For my initial microgreen trial, I chose broccoli microgreens. Depending on who you ask, broccoli could be an easy microgreen to grow or a bit of a challenge. I was excited to try them, so I decided to give it a shot.

Choosing a microgreen growing medium

After selecting your microgreen seeds the next most important decision is which growing medium to use for microgreens. Microgreens need a sterile soilless growing medium, and there are many recommended microgreen growing media options such as coconut coir, peat, seed starting mix, and even specially designed microgreen mats. Each of these media (and others) have pros and cons in terms of cost, consistency of growth, and ease of harvesting. Apparently even the paper towel method I’d attempted in the past can be used to successfully grow microgreens, although it’s probably not optimal.

For the broccoli microgreens, I chose to go with a seed starting mix I had on hand. To be sure it was free of nasties that might cause the microgreens to mold, I sanitized it with boiling water before getting started.

Microgreen mold management

Since microgreens are seeded much more densely than plants that are destined for the garden, it can be tricky to keep them from going moldy as they grow. Starting with a sterile growing medium and clean trays is the first line of defense against mold. It’s also important to not over-saturate the growing medium which can cause it to go anaerobic and the microgreens to drown and rot away. Once your growing medium is adequately saturated, using a spray bottle to mist the seeds while they germinate can help to keep them moist without adding excess water.

Promoting good airflow can also help to keep microgreens from molding once they’ve sprouted and started to grow. A gentle fan is ideal, but in a pinch an air vent or an open window can help.

As my broccoli microgreens were sprouting and growing I kept an eye out for signs of mold. Mold would appear as white-to-grayish spiderwebs on the surface of the growing medium as well as the greens (not to be confused with root hairs which are white, fuzzy, and only attached to roots). Once the microgreens germinated, I kept them near an open patio door and air vent to promote good airflow. I also picked out the odd withered sprout that I saw so it wouldn’t spoil the whole batch.

Applying weight to microgreen trays

One of the biggest ‘aha’ moments in this endeavor was learning that the seeds should be weighed down lightly to ensure good seed-to-soil contact and to encourage the roots to grow downward. While it’s possible to grow microgreens without weight (and a few types of microgreens should not be weighed down), applying weight helps to significantly improve germination and ensure a consistent, sturdy stand of microgreens that will also be easier to harvest. Growers with multiple trays of greens growing at a time will often stack them and place a weight on the top tray.

One handy trick if you’re growing in a takeout tray like I was is to invert the lid so it makes contact with the seeds and place soup cans or other small weights on top. Unfortunately I realized that I hadn’t filled my tray with enough growing medium for the inverted lid trick so I laid the weight (a beer stein) onto the surface of the medium with a piece of wax paper in between.

The microgreen blackout period

Learning that the trays should be kept in the dark until the seeds sprout was less of an ‘aha’ moment and more of an ‘oh, duh’ moment. When growing seedlings for the veggie garden I don’t need to place the trays in a dark place- if anything I’m keeping a watchful eye out to turn on the grow lights as soon as they sprout. But most microgreens (with a few exceptions) should be kept in the dark for a period of time while they first germinate and start growing. The typical length of the blackout period depends on the type of microgreen you’re growing. Bootstrap Farmer has an awesome microgreen cheat sheet that covers the technique and blackout period for just about every microgreen you can think of.

If you’re stacking microgreen trays on top of each other, that can help to provide darkness (although they may still need a few more days in darkness even after unstacking). In my case with just one tray and the weight on top I wasn’t sure if some light would still creep in. To be sure the seeds were kept in total darkness, I placed the tray in a closed cupboard but still checked on it multiple times a day. I took it out and removed the weight once the seeds had started sprouting.

Results and lessons learned

After having taken the time to do my homework before just throwing down seed, I did have slightly more success with growing microgreens. They mostly sprouted and I had no mold issues…however the greens did not root downward into the growing medium properly and after much waiting and hoping I could see they were starting to falter:

I suspect there are two main reasons why this happened. First, my seed starting mix was too dense (I used it for soil blocking so it’s not as light and fluffy as typical seed starting mixes). Second, I got too excited about taking the weight off the trays as soon as the sprouts started to emerge from the seed hulls. I think leaving the weight on for one extra day would have helped force them to root downward.

Undaunted, I’ve already started my next tray of microgreens! This time I’m opting for the super easygoing radish and trying vermiculite as a growing medium. I’ll be back with an update as soon as the radish results are in!

Radish microgreen update: The radish microgreen grow was a success! Growing in vermiculite and leaving the weight on for one more day after sprouting seemed to make all the difference. The stand of microgreens was consistent and upright, and the harvest from one small tray was substantial.

If you haven’t tried growing microgreens yourself (or maybe like me you’ve tried but failed) I hope you’ll give it a try…or a second, or third try! Once you’ve got the microgreen growing bug, it’s hard to quit…and a successful grow will come with persistence and practice!

Benefits of Growing Herbs in Containers:

• You don’t need a ton of gardening space.  You can grow herbs right on your patio.  You can grow herbs indoors, too, but they will thrive outside with fresh air and natural light. 
• You can easily control the growing conditions, like soil type and light requirements.
• For those with mobility challenges, container gardening can make accessibility easier.
• If you ever decide to move to a new location, your plants are ready for the move, too!
• Having your culinary herbs close by means you will use them more—no trudging to the garden in the summer heat for a sprig of rosemary.
• It makes your porch or patio look amazing.

Things to Consider: 

• When growing in containers, it’s good to remember that most plants need good drainage to thrive. Of course, some plants love moisture and can handle “wet feet,” but plants generally like drainage. So many times, I’ve gotten excited about a beautiful pot only to see it didn’t have a drainage hole at the bottom. In those cases, sometimes you can drill a drainage hole in the bottom. It’s also a good idea to elevate pots to keep them off the ground so they can drain properly.
• Before filling your pot, covering the drainage hole is helpful so the soil doesn’t spill out of the bottom. You can use landscaping fabric, pieces of mesh bird netting, a stack of coffee filters, or “crocks,” which are broken pieces of terra cotta pots. 
• When the weather is hot, you must monitor your container-grown plants to ensure they don’t dry out too much.
• If you plan on growing shrubs or small trees in pots, make sure you use a container that can handle some wind and not tip over easily. 
• Don’t plant your herbs in any pot that has the potential to leach toxins into the soil. For example, some pressure-treated woods may have chemicals that can be taken up by plants. Plastic is generally recognized as safe, although some people choose to stay away from it. 
• Strawberry pots are suitable for herbs that don’t mind too much confinement, like mint or basil. Trailing herbs like nasturtium also do well in strawberry pots. 

Basil

Basil does very well in pots and is easy to grow inside on a sunny window sill. Outside, basil does well in a location with full sun. Basil is a staple in Italian cuisine and a beloved medicinal herb in the Ayurvedic tradition. Holy basil, also known as Tulsi, makes a wonderful tea for the nervous system. The most frost-hardy variety of Tulsi is reported to be Ocimum africanum. Give your basil well-draining soil and keep it moist. Harvest all varieties of basil before the flowers bloom to keep the plant leafy and bushy. 

Catnip

Many cat owners grow catnip strictly for entertainment purposes.  A lot of cats get loopy after some whiffs of this mint family member. According to PetMd, when cats sniff catnip, they inhale a substance called nepetalactone, which triggers a release of natural opioids. But catnip isn’t just for cats; it’s also a great herbal companion for humans without the opioid interaction. It’s a gentle herb used to soothe digestion, calm fevers, and ease congestion. Catnip can be a vigorous spreader, but you can stop this by growing it in pots. Catnip prefers full sun and well-draining soil; do not overwater it. If you have cats (if you don’t, you’ll probably attract some neighborhood cats), you might need to protect the plant from being munched down to stubs and knocked over. Don’t overlook your dog, too.  My dog is famous for taking down a plant in one bite (it’s not recommended to allow this happen though)! You can put a little cage over catnip if it’s getting too much attention. Sometimes a cage isn’t enough though. If anyone has a pet-proofing plan for catnip, please let the Planter team know below!

Chamomile (German)

If you want to add chamomile to your garden but don’t want a lot of chamomile babies popping up next year, try growing it in a container. A 12-inch pot is a good size for one plant.  German chamomile isn’t very picky about soil or light, and it can take some shade, but I believe it blooms better in a sunny location.  You don’t need to worry about fertilizing chamomile either. No wonder this fuss-free flower has a reputation for relaxation. 

Chives

Chives are a familiar favorite in the kitchen garden. They can have a warming effect on digestion, so they are a great food herb to add to dishes. The beautiful blossoms can be picked and infused in vinegar for a yummy salad dressing or marinade. Chives love rich, moist soil. Make sure to add some all-purpose fertilizer to your container before planting.

Ginger

Ginger is a fun herb to grow at home. Try starting ginger from roots you get at the grocery store. Ginger grows outward. You can use a shallow pot, but it needs to be wide. The absolute must for container-grown ginger is good drainage! Ginger is very susceptible to rotting if there isn’t sufficient drainage. Ginger loves consistently moist and fertile soil, so keep an eye on this plant all summer. Keep it out of direct sunlight too.

Lavender

Lavender is a Mediterranean native, so it loves free-draining, gravelly, sandy soil, meaning it can thrive in a container.  Their root system can be pretty big, so choose a pot that will be large enough as it grows.  Mix equal parts of regular potting soil and perlite to ensure good drainage.  To avoid root rot, elevate your pot with an elevator on wheels or the “pot feet” that lift the pot off of the ground. Lavender needs full sun, so give it a spot with prime sun access. There are so many varieties and sizes of lavender.  The “dwarf” varieties are compact and perfect for a small patio garden. 

Licorice

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) has a distinct flavor that not everyone enjoys, but humans have used licorice for a long time. Originally used for brewing beer and for use in medieval apothecaries, licorice root began to flavor sweets in Yorkshire, England, hundreds of years ago, and it is still used in some brands of black licorice candy. Many teas contain licorice root because it has so many uses in herbal remedies. Licorice is a very slow-growing plant, and it can take a long time until you get enough roots to make it worthwhile to dry and use, but it’s still fun to grow some in a pot.  Licorice seems to prefer a pot that allows ample room to grow.  It likes full sun and very well-draining soil conditions(keep it watered but don’t overdo it).  Move your pot to a sheltered place if it’s very wet during your winters.  Licorice is slow to return in the spring and sometimes looks dead before it gets buds in later spring (at least, this has been my experience). Harvest licorice root in its third year. You can propagate it by root division in the spring.

Spilanthes

Buzz buttons. Electric daisies. Toothache plant. Eyeball plant. Spilanthes (Acmella oleracea) has many unique names and is a fun herb to grow! One tiny taste of this unusual flower will tingle up your tongue and mouth. It’s hard to fully describe the feeling, but one try, and you’ll understand why “buzz” buttons and “electric” daisies are nicknames.  Toothache plant isn’t a substitute for a trip to the dentist, but a swish of the tinctured plant can offer some relief for toothaches, due to the numbing sensation it gives. If you can’t find spilanthes in your area, it is pretty easy to grow from seed and it can thrive in containers. Grow it in full sun and very rich soil, and ensure it gets watered regularly. 

Thyme

Another Mediterranean native, thyme, does exceptionally well in pots!  There are so many varieties and flavors to choose from, such as orange thyme, lemon thyme, French thyme, oregano thyme, and more.  Whatever variety you decide on, make sure to give it good drainage and not-so-fertile gravelly soil. Thyme likes full sun.

Willow

Sometimes called nature’s aspirin because of its high salicin content, willow bark has a long history of use in folk medicine. Willow trees can grow very big and very quickly. They love to grow along streams and wet places.  There is a dwarf variety that doesn’t mind growing in pots (as long as you upsize the pot as needed), which is the purple willow.  You can grow this willow in regular potting soil.  Purple willow can handle part shade or full sun, just keep its roots as cool and moist as possible. I have been growing purple willow in a pot for a few years, and my pot does not have a drainage hole. Even when the container gets full of rainwater, the shrub does not seem to mind. The inner bark of willow is usually harvested in the spring and then dried. Use pruned willow branches for basket weaving or making plant trellises. Propagating willow is easy, and if you put a clipping directly in the ground and keep it watered, it should root! Willow is good for making living fences by propagation.

Experiment with Other Herbs

Many other herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lemongrass, aloe, green tea, and violets, also do well in pots. If you don’t have space for a garden bed, but there’s an herb you want to grow, there’s no harm in testing it out to see if it can thrive in a pot. Taking chances and experimenting is what gardening is all about!

As someone who loves growing my own food, and not breaking the bank at the same time, ive found that the secret to balancing these two goals lies in utilizing the local resources available to me. Not only is sourcing local materials great for the environment, but it also allows you to get the raw inputs needed for your garden, and often very cheaply, all while helping you to make local connections. In this growing guide, I’ll be sharing the benefits of using local resources for your garden, along with some handy tips on how to find and make the most of these resources.

Benefits of Utilizing Local Resources

First and foremost, using local resources helps to ensure that your plants are acclimated to the specific climate and soil conditions of your area. This means that they are more likely to thrive and produce an abundant harvest but to most readers the main reason you may want to utilize local resources is the cost-saving aspect. To that end local resources, such as seeds and compost, are often available for free or at a fraction of the cost compared to purchasing them from big-box stores or online. This not only saves you money but also allows you to invest in other aspects of your garden, such as high-quality tools or specialized plants. Moreover, by utilizing local resources, you are fostering a sense of community and supporting local businesses and organizations. It’s a win-win for both you and your community!

Types of Local Resources for Gardening

Nurseries

Local nurseries are an excellent source of plants, seeds, and gardening advice. Unlike large chain stores, nurseries often carry a wide selection of native plants that are well-suited to your region. While the selection offered at local nurseries is often more narrow, they more than make up for this by providing valuable insights into which plants thrive in your local climate and they can offer great guidance on proper care and maintenance. Visiting a nursery not only supports local businesses but also allows you to connect with fellow garden enthusiasts and exchange knowledge.

Community Gardens

Community gardens are an incredible resource for aspiring gardeners, especially those who lack the space for their own garden. These shared spaces provide access to land, tools, and the expertise of more experienced gardeners. By joining a community garden, you can learn from others, grow your own produce, and contribute to a vibrant and supportive gardening community. It’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with other like-minded individuals.

Finding Local Resources

How to Get Free Wood Mulch

Wood mulch is a valuable resource and one way to obtain it for free is by contacting utility companies or landscapers in your area. They often have excess wood chips from tree removal or powerline maintenance that they would otherwise have to pay to have discarded and they are often more than happy to give it away for free. There is one consideration you should make before acquiring mulch in this way and that is the amount of space you have and how much mulch you need. For example, in my area, my utility company will drop off no less than 10 yards of mulch at a time. So again if you don’t have the space, or the need, for this much material this may not be the best option for you. However, if you do, utilizing this resource not only save money but also contribute to the recycling and repurposing of local organic materials.

How to Use Libraries for Garden Tools

Libraries offer more than just books; they can also be a valuable resource for your garden. Many libraries offer gardening tools that you can check out similar to checking out a book. This allows you to try out different tools without having to invest in expensive equipment you may not really need. While the selection of tools at your local library may be limited, you can get access to them often for free. Libraries also provide access to a wealth of digital tools that can aid your gardening journey. From online gardening courses to digital resources on plant care and landscaping, libraries are a trove of gardening information waiting to be explored.

How to Get Seeds for Free

Local seed exchanges are a fantastic way to acquire seeds that are specifically adapted to your climate and growing conditions. These exchanges often take place at community events, gardening clubs, or even Libraries and acquiring seed in this way is almost always free. Participating in a seed exchange allows you to diversify your garden with unique and locally adapted varieties. It’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with fellow gardeners, share knowledge, and discover new plant species that you may not have encountered otherwise. If you decide to participate in a seed exchange, its always a good practice to give back as much seed as you have taken at the end of the year.

How to Get Free Food Scraps for Making Compost

When most people throw away food scraps, they know it’s a wasteful practice and it gives them an unpleasant feeling and coffee shops are no different. One way to you can help these businesses feel better about the waste they produce and obtain free organic material for your composter is by offering to pick up and compost these scraps for them. Many coffee shops are more than willing to give away spent coffee grounds that are a valuable source of nitrogen for your garden. To make it worth their time and effort it’s always a good idea to provide them with 5-gallon buckets ahead of time so it makes it easier for them to save the grounds for you. Not only does this provide you with valuable composting materials, but it also helps divert waste from landfills all while being free!

Reusing and Repurposing Materials for Garden Projects

Reusing and repurposing materials can add a creative touch to your garden projects. Instead of buying new, consider looking online like at places like Facebook marketplace where you can often find people giving away free used items like buckets, crates, or gardening tools. Transforming discarded items into things like planters not only adds a unique aesthetic to your garden but also gives new life back to useful things that otherwise may have found their way into a landfill. Get creative and let your imagination run wild!

Main Takeaways

Harnessing local resources for your garden is a smart and sustainable approach that offers numerous benefits. By utilizing local nurseries, seed exchanges, libraries, and community gardens, you support local organizations and gain access to plants and seeds that are perfectly suited to your region. Additionally, tapping into free resources such as wood mulch, library tools, and used coffee grounds helps you save money all while making connections with local likeminded people. After all gardening can be a team effort. Happy growing!

As someone who loves growing my own food, and not breaking the bank at the same time, ive found that the secret to balancing these two goals lies in utilizing the local resources available to me. Not only is sourcing local materials great for the environment, but it also allows you to get the raw inputs needed for your garden, and often very cheaply, all while helping you to make local connections. In this growing guide, I’ll be sharing the benefits of using local resources for your garden, along with some handy tips on how to find and make the most of these resources.

Benefits of Utilizing Local Resources

First and foremost, using local resources helps to ensure that your plants are acclimated to the specific climate and soil conditions of your area. This means that they are more likely to thrive and produce an abundant harvest but to most readers the main reason you may want to utilize local resources is the cost-saving aspect. To that end local resources, such as seeds and compost, are often available for free or at a fraction of the cost compared to purchasing them from big-box stores or online. This not only saves you money but also allows you to invest in other aspects of your garden, such as high-quality tools or specialized plants. Moreover, by utilizing local resources, you are fostering a sense of community and supporting local businesses and organizations. It’s a win-win for both you and your community!

Types of Local Resources for Gardening

Nurseries

Local nurseries are an excellent source of plants, seeds, and gardening advice. Unlike large chain stores, nurseries often carry a wide selection of native plants that are well-suited to your region. While the selection offered at local nurseries is often more narrow, they more than make up for this by providing valuable insights into which plants thrive in your local climate and they can offer great guidance on proper care and maintenance. Visiting a nursery not only supports local businesses but also allows you to connect with fellow garden enthusiasts and exchange knowledge.

Community Gardens

Community gardens are an incredible resource for aspiring gardeners, especially those who lack the space for their own garden. These shared spaces provide access to land, tools, and the expertise of more experienced gardeners. By joining a community garden, you can learn from others, grow your own produce, and contribute to a vibrant and supportive gardening community. It’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with other like-minded individuals.

Finding Local Resources

How to Get Free Wood Mulch

Wood mulch is a valuable resource and one way to obtain it for free is by contacting utility companies or landscapers in your area. They often have excess wood chips from tree removal or powerline maintenance that they would otherwise have to pay to have discarded and they are often more than happy to give it away for free. There is one consideration you should make before acquiring mulch in this way and that is the amount of space you have and how much mulch you need. For example, in my area, my utility company will drop off no less than 10 yards of mulch at a time. So again if you don’t have the space, or the need, for this much material this may not be the best option for you. However, if you do, utilizing this resource not only save money but also contribute to the recycling and repurposing of local organic materials.

How to Use Libraries for Garden Tools

Libraries offer more than just books; they can also be a valuable resource for your garden. Many libraries offer gardening tools that you can check out similar to checking out a book. This allows you to try out different tools without having to invest in expensive equipment you may not really need. While the selection of tools at your local library may be limited, you can get access to them often for free. Libraries also provide access to a wealth of digital tools that can aid your gardening journey. From online gardening courses to digital resources on plant care and landscaping, libraries are a trove of gardening information waiting to be explored.

How to Get Seeds for Free

Local seed exchanges are a fantastic way to acquire seeds that are specifically adapted to your climate and growing conditions. These exchanges often take place at community events, gardening clubs, or even Libraries and acquiring seed in this way is almost always free. Participating in a seed exchange allows you to diversify your garden with unique and locally adapted varieties. It’s a wonderful opportunity to connect with fellow gardeners, share knowledge, and discover new plant species that you may not have encountered otherwise. If you decide to participate in a seed exchange, its always a good practice to give back as much seed as you have taken at the end of the year.

How to Get Free Food Scraps for Making Compost

When most people throw away food scraps, they know it’s a wasteful practice and it gives them an unpleasant feeling and coffee shops are no different. One way to you can help these businesses feel better about the waste they produce and obtain free organic material for your composter is by offering to pick up and compost these scraps for them. Many coffee shops are more than willing to give away spent coffee grounds that are a valuable source of nitrogen for your garden. To make it worth their time and effort it’s always a good idea to provide them with 5-gallon buckets ahead of time so it makes it easier for them to save the grounds for you. Not only does this provide you with valuable composting materials, but it also helps divert waste from landfills all while being free!

Reusing and Repurposing Materials for Garden Projects

Reusing and repurposing materials can add a creative touch to your garden projects. Instead of buying new, consider looking online like at places like Facebook marketplace where you can often find people giving away free used items like buckets, crates, or gardening tools. Transforming discarded items into things like planters not only adds a unique aesthetic to your garden but also gives new life back to useful things that otherwise may have found their way into a landfill. Get creative and let your imagination run wild!

Main Takeaways

Harnessing local resources for your garden is a smart and sustainable approach that offers numerous benefits. By utilizing local nurseries, seed exchanges, libraries, and community gardens, you support local organizations and gain access to plants and seeds that are perfectly suited to your region. Additionally, tapping into free resources such as wood mulch, library tools, and used coffee grounds helps you save money all while making connections with local likeminded people. After all gardening can be a team effort. Happy growing!

So what is the best way to prevent bird and squirrel damage in the veggie garden?

Provide alternate food and water sources

Information is mixed on whether it’s a good idea to provide food and water for birds and squirrels in the garden. The reasoning behind providing food and water is that birds and squirrels will be less likely to go after your garden produce if there’s another source of food and water more readily available. Water is important in addition to food, as when a bird or squirrel takes a bite out of a juicy tomato or cucumber they’re often looking for the moisture.

Many sources say that providing food and water isn’t a good idea as it can make your yard more attractive to birds and squirrels and worsen the problem. To help ensure that providing food and water is an effective strategy and not just an invite to an all-you-can-eat garden buffet, keep some distance between the food and water source and the rest of your veggie garden. You’ll also need to be consistent- if there’s no food available and the water dries up, critters could turn to your garden instead! Ideally, plant plants that birds and squirrels can enjoy and that you don’t mind them eating. If you use deterrent techniques in and around the garden along with providing a food and water source away from the protected area, birds and squirrels may be less likely to spend their energy trying to get at your precious veggies.

Use bird and squirrel deterrents

There’s plenty of suggestions online for bird and squirrel deterrents, such as scarecrows, plastic owls or snakes, and shiny CDs or pie plates suspended on strings. Physical deterrents like these can help for a while, but birds and squirrels are smart and soon figure out that the deterrents pose no real threat. If you’re looking to protect plants just for a short time, such as while newly-sown seeds are germinating, physical deterrents may help. Moving the objects around regularly and changing up which deterrents you can also help to put off the birds and squirrels a while longer, but even then they might catch on. Some gardeners use motion-activated sprinklers to deter wildlife, but their ability to sense squirrels and smaller birds may be questionable. If you happen have a dog that you can safely let out in the garden (i.e., without damaging your veggies), they are probably the most effective bird and squirrel deterrent around!

Plant unappetizing plants

While many garden plants are attractive to squirrels, there are some plants they dislike. Interplanting unappealing plants strategically throughout the garden may help to conceal and protect the the more enticing plants from squirrels.

Squirrels tend to avoid daffodils, alliums (including onions and garlic), geraniums, native goldenrod, hyacinths, and mint (friendly PSA- remember to keep mint contained!)

Birds may be trickier to deter by planting specific plants, although some sources suggest that they are put off by garlic, citronella, and mint.

Apply bird and squirrel repellents

Another way to keep birds and squirrels away from the garden is to use repellent substances. Chili powder is a well recognized squirrel repellent, but it doesn’t affect birds. Chili powder can be sprinkled around plants or used as a spray- but be careful not to spray it on plants you intend to eat soon! A spray made of crushed garlic can also be an effective repellant but can leave a garlicky aroma on your plants- again you’ll want to avoid spraying anything soon-to-be-harvested! There are also commercially available deterrent products such as Bonide Repels-All (which works on squirrels and other mammals, but not birds). Some studies show that the active ingredient in Bird-Stop (methyl anthranilate, a derivative of concord grapes) can be effective at deterring birds, while other studies do not support this claim. This is also an active ingredient in grape Kool-Aid so if you only have a couple small shrubs or trees to protect it may be worth a try. Mix four packets of grape Kool-Aid in a gallon (3.8L) of water, then spray the plant and the ripening fruit. There is also some evidence to suggest spraying plants and fruits with a mixture of 5 pounds of table sugar dissolved in 2 quarts (1.9L) of hot water can help to repel birds.

Be sure that the repellent product you choose will repel the critters you need it to and can be used in the garden around edible plants. Keep in mind that repellents will need to re-applied fairly regularly to remain effective, especially after rain.

Install bird netting and squirrel-proof fencing

For heavy-duty protection against bird and squirrel damage, you may want to use netting or fencing to protect your crops.

When it comes to using bird netting, you’ll want to be careful about the netting you choose and how you install it to ensure birds and squirrels don’t become tangled and die. Look for a high-quality, UV-treated netting that will last for multiple seasons. You’ll want to find netting with holes less than 1/4" (6 mm) wide that will not trap birds, and make sure it is stretched relatively tightly as floppy, tangled netting can also ensnare birds. Use stakes or build a support frame to secure the netting and keep it taught. A determined squirrel can likely break through bird netting but it may be enough of a hassle that they choose to look elsewhere for food.

If you’re planning on using fencing, keep in mind that squirrels are excellent climbers (and of course birds will fly over any fence). You’ll need to cover the ‘airspace’ above your garden beds and not just the sides. Chicken wire, or better yet hardware cloth, can be used to fashion protective cages or boxes around your plants. Squirrels can also dig so you’ll want to bury the bottom edge of the cage or fence at least 6 inches below the soil. If you’re mainly interested in discouraging birds and squirrels from digging up newly planted seeds, you can loosely tent chicken wire over the seeded area and fasten the edges (or attach it to the edges of a raised bed) then remove it once your seedlings start to grow.

Ultimately, the decision of how best to manage birds and squirrels in your garden comes down to your gardening style and how big of a threat birds and squirrels are. If you enjoy wildlife in your garden and are OK with some potential losses, a more hands-off approach will suffice. If you’re dealing with a large population of birds or squirrels and you want to keep losses to a minimum, you’ll likely want to invest in bird-and-squirrel-proof infrastructure. So long as the technique is humane and makes you feel satisfied in your own garden, that is the best approach!

Calendula

Calendula can be very soothing to red, irritated, and puffy eyes. To make a strong infusion for an eyewash, make sure your hands are clean (since you’ll be touching near your eyes) before you:

Add 1 tablespoon of dried calendula to a jar.

Pour ½ cup of boiled water over the flowers and cover them with a jar lid or a plate.

After 15 minutes, strain the infusion using a coffee filter.

Soak a clean cloth into the infusion and cover your eyes. It’s okay if some of the tea gets into your eyes.

If you have allergies to plants in the Asteraceae (used to be Compositae) family, also called the marigold/ragweed/daisy family, you may want to avoid calendula. We’re trying to make your symptoms better, not worse!

Chamomile

Allergies can wreak havoc on you during the day and sometimes at night! Trying to sleep with a stuffy nose is almost impossible. Chamomile has anti-inflammatory and sleep-enhancing properties, so it could help promote a good night’s sleep. Try a cup of chamomile tea before bed or an herbal steam to help with congestion. How to make an herbal steam:

Put 1 tablespoon or more of dried herbs into a bowl.

Cover the herbs with some boiled water.

Drape a towel over your head to create a little “tent” while you hover over the bowl, being careful not to get too close to the steam. Take some deep breaths for a few minutes.

Chamomile is also in the Asteraceae family (marigold/daisy/ragweed), so use it with caution if you have allergies to plants in this family.

Elderberry

Elderberry is a popular herb to use during cold and flu season, but it may also have benefits during allergy season. There aren’t a lot of studies on elderberries’ effect on the symptoms of allergies, but one from 2013 suggests it can be helpful when dealing with allergies. Scientists say they need to do more research (as is the case with many herbs), but many people have anecdotal evidence elderberry has helped calm their symptoms. We do know that elderberries have a bioflavonoid called quercetin. Researchers think quercetin can help with symptoms like watery eyes and runny nose. Elderberry syrup is delicious and full of antioxidants, so it’s an herb worth considering!

Elderberries contain cyanogenic glycosides. Cooking or drying neutralizes these glycosides. Only use ripe berries from the blue and black varieties, do not use red elderberries. Remove any stems from the berries as well.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod, Solidago spp., sometimes gets a bad rap as an allergy-causing weed. Of course, you can be allergic to anything, but it often gets mistaken for a look-alike plant: ragweed. Ragweed pollen flies through the air like it’s on a mission to cause misery. Goldenrod pollen is too heavy to fly around and cause mayhem. It might become your best friend if you get excess mucus production during a pollen attack. Goldenrod is known as a remedy against congestion in the sinuses. It’s also known to be a “drying” herb, so if you tend to feel dry, like dry skin, eyes, or mouth, try goldenrod on a short-term “as needed” basis.

Goldenrod is another herb in the Asteraceae family.

If you are foraging your own goldenrod make absolutely sure you have the right plant. You don’t want to mix it up with another poisonous look-a-like such as tansy.

Horseradish

Lovers of horseradish sauce are probably familiar with horseradish’s ability to clear the sinuses. Horseradish for sinuses goes back to the days of folk medicine. Don’t overlook horseradish for your home garden if you have sinus problems; it could be worth growing. Because it can spread quickly, consider growing it in containers. Next time allergies cause a sinus situation, try whipping up a batch of sauerkraut with horseradish, or if you’re brave, hold some grated horseradish in your mouth for about 30 seconds.

Nettles

You may have had a close encounter with stinging nettles (Urtica dioica) and have no plans to get involved with this plant again. If you have allergies, you should reconsider. It’s true that nettles can leave you with a painful sting if you come into contact with hairs, but once nettle leaves are wilted, dried, or cooked, they can’t sting you anymore! Nettles are full of vitamins, minerals, and anti-inflammatory substances. Current research shows its anti-inflammatory effects may be helpful for nasal congestion and sneezing, and it may have antihistamine properties. Most herbalists suggest working with nettle weeks before your typical symptoms start to get the full benefits. Nettles are another drying herb, so be aware of how you feel if you take them as a tonic.

Urtica dioica may lower blood sugar and blood pressure, so it is recommended that you avoid it if you take certain medications.

Sage

A sage gargle might be helpful if you get an irritated and scratchy throat from allergies.

Put 1 teaspoon of dried sage (Salvia officinalis) in a jar and add 1 cup of boiled water.

Cover the jar and steep for 10-15 minutes. Strain and gargle with the tea for a couple of minutes.

Remember this tip next time you have a sore throat from an illness. This study shows it can be effective in cases of illness, too.

Thyme

If you experience tightness in your respiratory passages during allergies, an herbal steam with thyme could help loosen things up. Thyme is also known to be an expectorant or mucus mover, so a nice cup of thyme tea might help ease congestion. A touch of honey in thyme tea makes it even better.

When it comes to seasonal allergies, nothing is a quick fix, but maybe something on the list above can give you a little break so you can get out and enjoy your garden. If you want to learn more about growing herbs, check out these other growing guides:

Grow Abundant Herbs

Why Should I Grow Herbs in my Garden

Herbs aren’t intended to replace prescription allergy medications. This information is about seasonal allergies, not anaphylactic severe allergies. It is for educational purposes only and should not be considered medical advice. Please refer to your healthcare provider before using herbs.

What Does Native Mean

Plants are considered native if they grow naturally in a region and can thrive in their environment without much human help.

Humans have been traveling the world with plants for a long time. Sometimes, plants are transported around the earth by accident. Animal fur and clothing fiber are perfect vehicles for sticky seeds.

Non-native vs. Invasive

“Non-native” and “invasive” get mixed up sometimes. A lot of invasive plants can be non-native to an area, but not every non-native is automatically invasive. Lavender is native to the Mediterranean, but you can find it worldwide now, and it isn’t doing any harm. To be considered “invasive,” a non-native plant needs to cause damage to the ecosystem. An invasive plant can crowd out or take over the local plants. In the southern United States, kudzu, an Asian vine, can grow a foot a day in early summer and smother plants around it. In the Pacific Northwest, English ivy can overwhelm whole forests. Plants labeled as “noxious weeds” can also cause a lot of problems and tend to be non-natives.

Many plants sold at garden centers are considered non-native or “exotic.” They can survive in our gardens, but they might need extra attention and care. Depending on where you live, non-native plants may have higher water needs, more problems with pests, and a greater nutrient need. Using fertilizers, extra water, and chemicals for pest control can mean you spend more resources, money, and time to keep them looking their best. That said, there are low-maintenance non-natives. For example, Mediterranean plants like thyme and rosemary are fuss-free if given sufficient drainage.

Benefits of Native Plants

Reduce Air Pollution

Native plants tend to need less ongoing maintenance to look good, and using powered garden equipment less means reduced air pollution.

Use Less or No Chemicals

Because natives are adapted to the soil in a specific area, they don’t usually have as many pests or diseases that non-natives might have to battle, so you don’t need to turn to pesticides or herbicides. That, in turn, helps protect against run-off that happens when chemicals are not applied correctly. Run-off can end up in our waterways, hurting aquatic life.

Conserve Water

Native plants can use water efficiently. As lovely as it looks, a lush green lawn in the desert can drain your wallet and possibly the habitat around it. Many desert dwellers opt for a landscape of arid native plants and leave just a little patch of grass for the kids and pets to play on. Suppose you don’t have an irrigation system. In that case, you might spend a lot of time watering by hand, and depending on your region, you might be able to cut down the time spent watering by using native plants.

Support Your Local Wildlife

Native plants help support the native wildlife in your area. Some insects and animals depend on native flora for food and shelter. Certain plants and animals have evolved together and help each other out. It’s not to say that the non-natives are bad guys and won’t help the wildlife in our gardens. I’ve never seen a bee snub a lavender blossom because it isn’t from my area. It’s just that certain wildlife and plant relationships are particular. For example, animals rely on cacti in the Southwestern desert for food, water, and shelter.

North America has over 100 native species of Asclepias or milkweed. Monarch caterpillars depend on milkweed for food. It is the only thing they eat. If you’d like to help protect the monarch butterfly, consider planting some milkweed in your garden; the caterpillars will thank you.

It’s good to know that milkweed is toxic to pets and livestock, and humans should avoid touching the sap.

Save Money

I must admit I’ve wasted a lot of money and time on things I should have never tried to grow. I’ve fallen for some trendy plants that couldn’t tolerate my wet winters or cold snaps. I’ve tried to overwinter some plants only to have them die despite my best effort. I’ve added more native plants every season, and most are thriving. It’s nice to have plants that can take care of themselves, for the most part.

Where to Find Native Plants

Interest in gardening with natives is growing, and nurseries are paying attention. Some nurseries focus all of their time on growing native plants. If you garden in the United States, you can find out what plants are native to your region here. Canadian gardeners can check out this link. If you are a gardener living outside of the U.S. and Canada, consider finding a local gardening club or an environmental conservancy group to find plants for your area.

Gardening with natives isn’t all or nothing. Many non-natives get along just fine with the local flora and fauna. But if you want to bring your green lifestyle outside, consider adding more natives to your landscape.

But what needs to be done to prepare garden beds in spring?

Warm up the soil before planting

Even once the warm weather arrives, garden soil can be stubbornly slow to reach warm enough temperatures for seeds to germinate and plants to grow. There are a few techniques you can use to warm up the soil sooner:

• If your garden was mulched before winter set in, pull the mulch aside so the soil surface can be exposed to the warmth of the sun (this also makes it easier for seeding).
• Keep in mind that soil in raised beds will typically warm up faster because the volume of soil is lower and it’s exposed to warmer air.
• Black plastic silage tarps can be used on the soil surface to help capture the sun’s heat and warm the soil. Clear plastic sheeting will warm the soil even more quickly and will ‘solarize’ the soil- which helps to kill soil-borne pathogens but may also harm beneficial soil life.
• You can also apply a thick layer of well-aged compost onto the surface of the soil to plant into.

Different crops have different preferred soil temperatures for germinating and growing. There’s no rush to get heat-loving crops in the ground if the soil isn’t yet staying consistently warm enough for them to grow.

Ensure the soil is dry enough to work

Soggy soil can be a problem in springtime with rainy weather and snowmelt (in some areas) saturating the ground. Wet soil ideally shouldn’t be walked on or worked as this can cause compaction and degrade the soil structure. Soil that is too wet can also cause seeds and seedlings to rot.

Some of the same techniques that can be used to warm the soil can also help the soil to dry out for spring planting. Tarps help to protect the soil surface from excess rainfall, and raised beds typically drain faster than in-ground beds.

If you consistently have drainage issues especially in spring, consider building up your in-ground beds slightly and incorporate lots of organic matter throughout the season to optimize drainage. You may also want to use a thick layer of wood chips in garden pathways to minimize compaction and to keep your boots from churning up a muddy mess!

So how do you know when the soil is dry enough to be worked? You can test this by forming a ball of soil in your hand and applying gentle pressure to it- the soil should crumble easily rather than sticking together or forming a ‘ribbon’.

Clean up leftover plant debris

Many gardeners leave some plant debris in the ground over winter to help feed the soil and provide shelter for overwintering beneficial insects. In most cases you’ll want to remove dead plant debris in the spring to to create a clean, level surface to seed or transplant into. Sometimes you can leave dead plant roots in the ground and simply cut off the stems at ground level, amend the soil, then seed or transplant around them. If the roots are too thick and it’s awkward to plant around them, pull them out and compost them.

Tackle problematic weeds

While you garden beds are still empty in spring, take the opportunity to tackle persistent weed problems. If you’re dealing with nasty perennial weeds with underground root systems you may want to dig or fork them out before any plants go in. If you’re dealing mostly with annual weeds that are spreading by seed, you might want to limit the amount of cultivation you do in spring and instead consider applying a thick layer of well-aged compost as a mulch that can help prevent weed seeds from sprouting and reaching the soil surface. Tarps can also be used strategically to help kill off weeds before planting. Research your most problematic weeds to see if there are specific steps you can take in spring that will save you from weeding headaches (and backaches) throughout the season.

Add soil amendments and nutrients

Once the ground is workable, spring is great time to apply or work in compost to help build organic matter in the soil. If your soil is lacking nutrients, you’ll also want to apply fertilizer prior to spring planting. Just be cautious not to apply significant quantities of nitrogen around perennial plants too early in the season, as this can stimulate a flush of tender growth that could get killed off in a cold snap. If you need to raise or lower the PH of your soil fall is usually the best time to apply PH-changing agents, but if you missed the fall window go ahead and apply them in spring- better late than never!

Set-up garden infrastructure

As a final step to preparing your spring garden beds you’ll want to install garden infrastructure (e.g., trellises, stakes, arches, cages, irrigation lines) either just before or just after planting. If you wait too long to install infrastructure it can be difficult to delicately weave the structures, wires, and lines around larger plants, and you could damage the root systems by poking stakes into the ground.

It can be hard to spend the time in spring to properly prepare our garden beds- either because we’re eager to get planting, or because we’re eager to hurry inside and warm up our hands! But a well-prepared garden bed will lead to more abundant harvests throughout the season. So hold off for a sunny spring day, and spend a few hours to get your garden in shape for a successful growing season!

Advantages and Disadvantages of the Traditional Root Cellar

But first, before we delve into the alternative methods of root cellaring, let’s take a moment to appreciate the advantages of the traditional root cellars. The primary advantage, of course, is the ability to store a tremendous amount of produce in a comparatively small space. A well-built root cellar also provides cool, consistent temperatures as well as high humidity levels, that are ideal for storing root vegetables and other produce so they stay fresh and don’t dry out. They are also very convenient for easily walking in and out of to add or retrieve food.

However, there are a few disadvantages to consider. First and foremost, not everyone has access to a root cellar. And if you’d like to have one built, not many contractors regularly build these kinds of structures any longer so expertise is often lacking which can lead to a poor-quality root cellar. If you are a DIY’er, like many gardeners tend to be, building one yourself will likely still be expensive and time consuming. Furthermore, traditional root cellars require proper ventilation and monitoring to prevent spoilage or the growth of mold, so they are not something you just build and forget about. But fear not, for we have some creative, low cost, yet high value solutions up our sleeves.

Different Methods of Root Cellaring:

Mounds

If you have a patch of land available, creating mounds is another option for root cellaring without a root cellar. Start by loosening the soil in your chosen area and shaping it into mounds. Place your vegetables in the center of each mound, making sure to cover them completely with soil. The soil acts as a natural insulator, protecting your veggies from extreme temperatures. Just remember to mark the location of your mounds so you can easily find them when it’s time to retrieve your stored produce.

Root Boxes

If you’re feeling handy, a root box might be the perfect root cellaring solution for you. This DIY project involves building a wooden box with slatted sides for ventilation. Line the box with straw or wood shavings and place your vegetables inside. The slatted sides will allow for proper air circulation while the insulation provided by the straw or wood shavings will help maintain a cool and humid environment. Place the root box in a cool, dark location, such as your basement, a well-ventilated garage, or even your attic and enjoy the convenience of having your own root cellar alternative.

Trenches/clamps

If you have a medium to large unused patch of yard, trenches are an excellent option for root cellaring without a root cellar. Dig a trench approximately one foot deep and place your vegetables inside, making sure they are not touching each other. Cover the vegetables with straw or leaves for insulation, and top it off with a thick layer of soil. If drainage is a problem in your area, you can also cover the bottom of the trench with a layer of gravel topped with sand before placing your vegetables inside. You can create multiple trenches for different types of vegetables or use one long trench for a variety of produce. Just remember to mark the location of your trenches for easy access when it’s time to dig up your stored treasures.

In-Row Storage

For those with limited space, in-row root cellaring is a space-saving alternative. Simply leave your root vegetables in the ground and cover them with a thick layer of straw or leaves. This provides insulation and protection from freezing temperatures. To harvest your veggies, simply remove the straw layer and dig them up as needed. This method works well for vegetables like carrots, beets, and potatoes that can withstand colder temperatures without spoiling.

Choose the Right Vegetables for Storage

Not all vegetables are created equal when it comes to root cellaring. Some are better suited for long-term storage, while others will quickly turn into a mushy mess. So, before you embark on your root cellaring adventure, it’s important to choose the right vegetables. Root vegetables like carrots, beets, turnips, and potatoes are excellent candidates for long-term storage. These hearty veggies store extremely well in the cool temperatures and high humidity required for successful root cellaring.

On the other hand, vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers are not well-suited for root cellaring. These tender veggies prefer warmer temperatures and are better preserved through other methods such as canning or freezing. So, keep this in mind when selecting which vegetables to store without a root cellar. Now that we’ve got our veggie lineup sorted, let’s explore some alternative methods of root cellaring.

Tips for Successful Root Cellaring and Common Mistakes to Avoid

Now that you’re armed with plenty of root cellaring options, let’s go over some tips and common mistakes to ensure your root cellaring endeavors are a success.

#1 Temperature and Humidity Monitoring: Regardless of the method you choose, it’s crucial to monitor the temperature and humidity levels in your storage area. Invest in a thermometer and hygrometer to keep a close eye on the conditions. For most vegetables, aim for a temperature between 33°F (Near 0°C) and 40°F (4°C) and a humidity level of around 80 - 90% for optimal storage.

#2 Proper Ventilation: When using root boxes, or any other out-of-soil storage method, good air circulation is key to preventing the growth of mold and the buildup of ethylene gas, which can cause vegetables to spoil. Ensure that your chosen storage method allows for proper ventilation, whether it’s through slatted sides or periodic airing.

#3 Inspect and Sort: Regularly inspect your stored vegetables and remove any that show signs of spoilage. One bad apple can indeed spoil the bunch, so it’s important to stay vigilant. Additionally, sort through your stored produce periodically to remove any damaged or rotting vegetables, as these can quickly spread decay to the rest of your stash.

#4 Avoid Storing Bruised or Damaged Vegetables: Only store vegetables that are in good condition. Bruised or damaged vegetables are more prone to spoilage and can affect the quality of neighboring produce. It’s best to consume or process these vegetables immediately rather than risk storing them.

#5 Check for Pests: Keep an eye out for any unwanted visitors in your storage area. Rodents, insects, and other critters can quickly ruin your hard-earned harvest. Consider using natural pest deterrents such as cedar chips or peppermint oil to keep critters at bay. Additionally if you have some chicken wire or mesh screens laying around, this will also help keep mice from stealing your future lunch.

Wrap Up

Root cellaring without building a dedicated traditional root cellar may seem like a daunting task at first, but with a little creativity and the right techniques, you can successfully store your fresh produce for months. With the tips and tricks, I outlined above, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying your own homegrown vegetables all year round. Happy root cellaring!

Gear up for a gardening experience that’s both familiar and fresh with Planter’s exciting new feature: TV Mode! Immerse yourself in a wave of vintage charm as your app transforms into a classic television interface, complete with a unique visual and auditory twist.

Step back in time: Remember the warm glow of an old-school TV? TV Mode brings that nostalgic aesthetic to your fingertips. Imagine crisp veggies displayed with a touch of fuzzy charm and even a subtle static hum to set the mood. It’s a delightful nod to the bygone era, offering a unique way to interact with your garden planning.

But don’t let the vintage vibes fool you! TV Mode isn’t just about aesthetics. It packs all the powerful features you know and love about Planter, presented in a charmingly pixelated package:

• Detailed plant information: Learn about growing conditions, companion planting, and potential pests – all displayed with a blurry TV-inspired font and layout.
• Intuitive garden planning: Drag and drop your veggies with ease, even if you’re more familiar with joysticks than touchscreens.
• Planting calendar: Ensure your harvest is pixel-perfect by knowing exactly when to sow those seeds. Your calendar will still work even though it looks like it’s 1989.
• Community sharing: Show off your pixelated garden creations and connect with fellow green thumbs who appreciate a touch of retro charm. Share your designs using the hashtag #TVGarden and see who gets the most likes!

Ready to channel your inner techie farmer with a vintage twist? Simply open Planter and activate TV Mode. It’s the perfect way to add a touch of fun and nostalgia to your gardening routine, whether you’re a seasoned planter or just starting out.

Remember, TV Mode is a limited-time experience, so don’t miss out! Download Planter today and unlock a world of pixelated veggies and a warm wave of nostalgia. Happy gardening!

Ways to use compost in the garden

There are a few key reasons to add compost to your garden:

Compost adds organic matter that improves the structure of both sandy soils and clay soils. It also provides food for beneficial organisms that improve the health of your soil.

Compost can provide a slow-release source of key nutrients that plants need. The amount of nutrients contained in the compost depends on the materials used to make it. Many types of compost contain relatively low nutrient concentrations.

Compost can also be used as a mulch which can help your soil retain moisture and, when applied in a layer several inches thick can help to suppress weeds.

Depending on which of these benefits you’re aiming for, you’ll want to choose a compost (or combination of composts) accordingly.

Types of compost

Keeping in mind the various ways we can use compost in the garden, let’s delve into some of the commonly available types of compost and their uses:

Manure-based compost (including bagged manure)

Manure-based composts often consist of decomposed cow, sheep, or horse dung along with the bedding material. While there are slight differences in nutrient concentrations and organic matter levels, manure from these animals is generally interchangeable so long as it is well decomposed. Manure-based composts provide both a good source of organic matter that can help improve soil structure as well as a dose of nutrients. They are often incorporated directly into the soil as an amendment or could be used as a mulch.

There are also composted poultry (chicken, turkey) manures available which provide a more highly concentrated dose of nutrients. These are used primarily as fertilizers rather than soil amendments.

Manure-based composts can be sold in bulk (see ‘commercial compost’ below) or in bags at your local garden center. Composted poultry manure may also be dried and sold as pellets.

Mushroom compost

Mushroom compost is a type of commercial compost that consists of growing material from mushroom farms. It is typically a combination of aged manure, straw, and gypsum. Mushroom compost is a good source of both organic matter and some nutrients. You can find mushroom compost sold as a bagged product or available in bulk from a mushroom farm. If you have access to mushroom compost it is a good soil amendment. There is mixed information about mushroom compost containing ‘high levels of salts’ that could harm plants- some sources say it’s a concern, others say it’s no different than any manure-based compost. To be cautious you could start with smaller doses or experiment in a small area of your garden.

Worm compost (vermicompost)

Vermicompost, also called worm castings, is not technically a compost but a byproduct of the digestive process of specific types of worms as they break down food waste and other organic materials. Vermicompost typically comes in smaller quantities as a bagged product and can be pricey compared to other types of compost (unless you make your own!) It may not make sense to use as a soil amendment in large quantities, but can be incorporated in smaller areas, containers, and in seed starting mixes to add a boost of organic matter, microbes, and a light dose of nutrients.

Leaf mold

Leaf mold sounds like a kind of fungus or disease, but it’s just decomposed dry leaves that gardeners collect in fall and compost down. Leaf mold is not especially nutrient rich but it is high in organic matter, as such it can be useful as a soil amendment or makes an excellent mulch. Since dry leaves are abundant and readily available it’s relatively easy and inexpensive to gather enough material to produce leaf mold in large quantities.

Municipal and commercial bulk compost

Municipal compost is produced by collecting kitchen scraps and/or yard waste from the local community and making sure the compost ‘heats up’ to destroy weed seeds and pathogens. Commercial bulk compost on the other hand can come from a number of sources, often with manure as one of the components, and how well decomposed it is can vary depending on the supplier’s process. Municipal compost is a great resource to help improve soil structure or use as a mulch, but it’s typically low in nutrients. Nutrient levels in commercial compost will depend on the source materials. Be sure to ask questions about the inputs, the nutrient analysis, and composting process before applying bulk compost to your garden.

Homemade compost

Composting at home is an easy and inexpensive way to have a compost source for your garden. Homemade compost is typically lower in nutrients than manure-based composts, however it’s a great source of organic matter to incorporate into your soil. Homemade compost can also be used as a mulch but depending on how much input material you’re able to collect it may be challenging to produce in large enough quantities to build up a thick layer. For more information the basics of composting and how to compost at home check out Compost: Add Life to Your Garden

Things to watch out for in compost

Unfortunately, sometimes adding compost to your garden can do more harm than good. Here are some things to watch out for when choosing a compost:

Unfinished compost

Unfinished compost poses a risk to your garden because if the composting process has not fully completed it can ’lock up’ nutrients that your plants need and cause deficiencies. Also the compost may continue to generate heat as it breaks down that can harm your plants. If you’re making your own compost at home be sure that the compost is ready before using it - it should be dark brown, smell ’earthy’, and should not have large un-composted pieces of material. Bagged compost and municipal compost is typically fully broken down. For commercial bulk compost, be sure to ask questions about the process so you can satisfy yourself that you’re getting compost that’s ready to be used.

Weed seeds and disease

Both homemade compost and manure-based composts may contain weed seeds or plant pathogens if they have not been composted properly to ensure that the compost ‘heats up’. For your homemade compost if you’re not confident that you’ll be able to manage your pile to get it to heat up (to at least 130°F) you may want to avoid putting weeds with seed heads or diseased plant material in. For commercial bulk composts, inquire about the composting process to ensure you don’t get compost full of weed seeds.

Persistent herbicides

There have been some stories lately of gardeners receiving composts containing persistent broadleaf herbicides - aminopyralid, clopyralid, and picloram. Persistent herbicides can contaminate manure-based composts as they can pass through the animals’ digestive systems and can be found in the bedding materials. They are not eliminated in the composting process. Persistent herbicide-laced compost can be a disaster for your garden as without remediation it can prevent some plants from growing properly for up to several years. Ask your supplier about their source materials to make sure they do not contain these types of herbicides. NC State Extension has an excellent article on this issue including detailed steps to assess and test your compost.

Compost with wood shavings

Some bulk compost producers add wood shavings to their manure compost. While this compost may be aged enough so the manure is decomposed, there can still be significant quantities of wood shavings in the mix that have not fully broken down. This product may be better suited as a landscaping mulch- if it’s applied to a veggie garden and incorporated into the soil it might lock up nitrogen and cause nutrient deficiencies. Again it’s important to ask questions of your supplier and test the compost if you have concerns.

The next time you go to add compost to your garden, give some consideration to how you intend to use it and choose the right material accordingly. By doing this you’ll not only avoid potential heartache of using the wrong compost, but you’ll be able to maximize the benefits of compost for the health of your plants!

The term “cover crop” is often used as a catch-all for plants whose main purpose is not to yield a food crop but rather to provide desirable benefits to your soil and the actual food crops planted after them. Cover crops are commonly used and associated with industrial farming operations but in recent years gardeners have started to realize their usefulness in personal gardening.

Benefits of Using Cover Crops

The most important benefit gardeners get from cover crops is that they act as a natural weed suppressant. They accomplish this in one of 2 ways. The first is by simply covering the soils surface so small weed seeds like crabgrass or pigweed don’t have the space and sunlight they need to grow.

The second way some cover crops suppress weeds is through allelopathy. Allelopathy in a nutshell is when a plant produces certain chemicals with the express purpose of disrupting the germination, or inhibiting the growth, of other plants around it as a means of chemical competition. This reduces the need for manual weeding or the use of harmful herbicides saving you time, money, and labor all while keeping your garden looking neat and tidy.

Furthermore, some cover crops improve soil fertility by fixing nitrogen. As I’ll explain more below, crops in the legume family have the ability to fix nitrogen into the soil and as a result food crops planted after a legume cover crop grow healthier and produce higher yields.

Types of Cover Crops for Vegetable Gardens

Now that you understand the benefits of using cover crops, let’s explore the different types.

Legumes

Legume cover crops, such as crimson clover and hairy vetch, are excellent choices for enriching the soil with nitrogen. They have the unique ability to form nodules on their roots that house nitrogen-fixing bacteria. These bacteria convert atmospheric nitrogen into a usable form. You can think of them as the supplementary “N” for nitrogen in the NPK macronutrients your plants need.

Grasses

Grass cover crops, like rye and oats, are great for adding organic matter to the soil. They have deep root systems that help break up compacted soil, improve drainage, and prevent erosion. Grasses also act as green manure, enriching the soil with essential nutrients as they decompose. As with all cover crops it’s important to use annuals and not perennials. Otherwise, you will turn your entire garden into a yard. :)

Brassicas

Brassica cover crops, such as mustard and radish, are known for their bio-fumigation properties. When these plants are terminated and left to break down into the soil, they release natural compounds that suppress soil-borne pests and diseases. Brassicas also help improve soil structure by penetrating deep into the soil with their taproots.

Planting and Growing Cover Crops in Your Vegetable Garden

Now that you understand the types of cover crops out there, it’s time to get your hands dirty and start planting!

Site preparation

Before planting cover crops, clear the area of any debris or weeds. Optionally you can choose to loosen the soil with a garden fork or tiller to ensure better seed-to-soil contact.

Seed selection

Purchase high-quality cover crop seeds from a reputable supplier and follow the instructions on the seed container for the recommended seeding rate and depth. While you can buy pre-mixed cover crop seeds, you can also purchase individual cover crops and mix them later. Doing so allows you to mix the exact varieties and amounts to meet your needs.

Planting method

For the small vegetable grower, the best and easiest method is just good ‘ol fashioned broadcasting. This involves spreading seeds evenly across your growing area and then watering them in. You can do this with a hand-crank spreader or you can simply spread the seeds by hand.

Pro Tip #1

Cover your newly spread seeds with a thin layer of compost after they are watered in. This layer provides needed nutrients to the soil and helps keep the seeds moist to ensure even germination. It also hides your seed from the birds!

Pro Tip #2

You can optionally soak your seeds in water for 12 - 24 hours before planting. This will shave a day or two off of the germination time and reduces the amount of watering you will need to do to get your cover crop established.

Managing Cover Crops for Maximum Benefits

To maximize the benefits of cover crops, proper management is key. Be sure to consider:

Timing of termination

Cover crops should be terminated before they set seed or become too mature. This ensures that they do not compete with your vegetable plants for resources or become a nuisance. The best time to terminate a cover crop is when it begins to flower. At this stage most cover crops begin to dedicate a lot of their resources into seed creation and terminating them at this point helps to ensure they will not regrow.

Termination methods

There are 3 main methods for terminating cover crops which are mowing, tilling, or winter kill. The first two are referred to as mechanical termination and the last is simply using the cold winter temperatures to terminate crops for you. If your area receives sufficiently cold winters, winter kill is a viable option for you. However if you live in a place where winters usually do not get cold enough to kill your cover crop, or it can withstand very cold temperatures like crimson clover, then you will need to use mechanical termination in the spring.

Incorporation into the soil

After termination, you can choose to till your growing area and incorporate the cover crop residues back into the soil. However, if you do not want to till your soil, you can simply use the bagger on your push mower to collect the residue and then put it back on top of the soil to let the organic matter break down over time. Sometimes you will find that there is still some residue on the top of the soil that did not break down sufficiently, simply clear off the remaining residue with a rake and add it to your compost pile.

Tips for Integrating Cover Crops into Your Vegetable Garden

Integrating cover crops into your vegetable garden can be a game-changer. Here are some tips to help you seamlessly incorporate cover crops into your gardening routine:

Plan ahead

Consider cover crops when planning your garden layout and crop rotation. Determine which areas will benefit from cover crops and schedule their planting accordingly.

Start small

If you are new to cover cropping, start with a small area to gain experience and assess the results. Once you feel confident, gradually expand the coverage to other parts of your garden.

Experiment

Don’t be afraid to experiment with different cover crop combinations and planting methods. Every garden is unique, and what works for one may not work for another. Keep a gardening journal to track your observations and learn from each experience.

Final Word

Using cover crops in the garden is a simple and completely organic way to provide many primary and secondary benefits for you and your garden. Using cover crops does require some planning, expense, and garden space, but it’s a worthwhile tradeoff to help build a productive garden that can provide healthy food for you and your family. So please do yourself a kindness this next growing season and give cover crops a try!

You’ve asked for it and we’ve listened. Today, we’re excited to announce that we’re rolling out flowers in Planter!

About Me

My name is Pam, and I’m one of the newest members of the Planter team. I’ve been adding flowers to Planter over the last few months, and I’m thrilled to finally share them with you!

A little about myself- I’ve gardened my entire adult life, always perennial/herbaceous beds and vegetables when my kids were growing up. Four years ago, I saw a YouTube gardener’s cut flower beds and immediately decided I needed to be a cut flower farmer. Two years ago, I retired from the University of Connecticut Extension System as a 4-H Educator and dove headlong into growing my flower farm.

Now I get to create my own Planter flower garden plans, and you can too!

Flowers in Planter!

Today we’re adding over 3 dozen new flowers to the app. Until now we’ve only had edible flowers (such as Sunflowers) or common companion flowers (such as Marigolds). Now, we’re adding flowers with an emphasis on cut-flowers and flowers that are great for pollinators.

Look for more flowers through the upcoming months, and blog posts about flowers, herb gardens, and especially native and pollinator gardens. I hope you find the flowers that you love to garden with in the plant library. If you don’t see your favorite flower, you can request it in the app, and as always, you can add your own custom plants to your Planter garden(s).

How exciting to be gardening with you this summer!

Aloe

Aloe deserves a top spot in our herbal body care garden lineup. Many of us reach for aloe after getting too much sun. It’s great at soothing irritated and sun burned skin. The gel inside of a leaf offers some relief of the itchiness that follows a burn too. In the case of minor burns from touching something hot, aloe can be useful. Aloe thrives in deserts and it’s perfect for gardens with arid conditions. If you don’t live in the desert, aloe is easy to grow in a container as a houseplant. Aloe needs a lot of bright, but not necessarily direct, sunlight so it’s best to put it near a south facing window. Water an aloe about once a week, but make sure you let the soil dry out between waterings, and be careful not to overwater it, too much water can kill an aloe. Container-grown aloe can be moved outside in the summer.

Bee Balm

Monarda, or bee balm, is a favorite for pollinators and hummingbirds, but it’s also an amazing plant for skin care. Bee balm is known to smell a little “spicy” and that spiciness comes from its high thymol content. Thymol has powerful antiseptic and antifungal properties, making bee balm a good choice when dealing with issues like build-up on the scalp or fungal infections of the skin. You can infuse apple cider vinegar with bee balm for a clarifying scalp rinse. You can make a strong tea, called an infusion, of bee balm and apply it as a compress to support blemish-prone skin. Monarda didyma (most commonly found at nurseries) and Monarda fistulosa are the types of bee balm to use as herbs.

Calendula

If I had to recommend just one herb for a body care garden, it would be calendula. In my opinion, Calendula officinalis is the leader of the herbal skin care world. Calendula is famous for its anti-inflammatory effects on skin. Today’s science is studying what traditional medicine has known for years, that use of calendula is associated with a potentially faster recovery time for injured skin. Harvest the whole flower head, after any dew has dried, ideally mid-morning, and dry for later use. Calendula can take a long time to fully dry out, but a dehydrator can speed up the process. With your dried flowers you can make infused oils for bath salts, turn the oil into a soothing salve, use dried flowers in a bath tea, or you can make an infusion to use as a compress on irritated skin. Calendula is a very enthusiastic self-seeder, which I find delightful, but you might not. So keep deadheading your flowers to prevent an enormous amount going to seed.

Chamomile

The lovely little chamomile isn’t just for tea! This mighty flower makes a perfect addition to a sleepy time bath tea blend. Make a strong infusion and add it to bathwater. A cloth soaked in chamomile tea is a treat for sunburned skin.

Elderflower

Since ancient times, people have been using Sambucus to enhance their beauty. The fragrant elderflower is full of antioxidants. Antioxidants fight free radicals that can cause inflammation on the inside and outside of our bodies. Use elderflower tea internally or externally to promote healthy skin. Salves infused with elderflower are popular for baby creams. Add some elderflower tea to lukewarm bathwater when you need to cool yourself down.

Fennel

Fennel seems more appropriately used in a spaghetti sauce, but surprisingly, fennel can be helpful in the pursuit of glowing skin. Fennel seeds have a lot of antioxidants and have antiseptic properties. Ground up fennel seeds can be mixed with honey or yogurt and turned into a wonderfully exfoliating face mask. Gentle exfoliation removes dead skin which is helpful if you’re prone to breakouts. With special emphasis on the word gentle. Too much scrubbing can lead to irritation and redness, the exact opposite of what you want.

Lavender

Besides being an amazing plant for pollinators, lavender is fun to use in herbal body products. A lot of us love the smell of lavender and it can be dried and used to scent products you can make at home: soaps, lotions, body butter, salves, lip balms, infused oils, calming bath salts, bath teas, and more! The variety ‘Grosso’ is prized for its intense smell and it creates a lot of buds, so it’s a great choice for an herbal body care garden.

Rosemary

Rosemary is a very popular culinary herb so maybe you already have some in your garden. If not, you might want to add this multi-purpose plant! Olive oil infused with dried rosemary makes a wonderful hair/scalp treatment (and marinade too but don’t mix them up)! Rosemary has been used to help boost hair growth and studies show this isn’t just an old wives’ tale. Rosemary is a favorite for those with very oily skin too because it has a strong astringent effect.

Roses

Way back when, you could find the ancient Egyptians using roses to maintain their beauty. Roses are one of the most famous ingredients in natural based skin care. Rose petals are soothing and have anti-inflammatory actions on the skin. Roses are suitable for all skin types. Rose water is a popular way to use the petals and you can make it at home. The power of the rose doesn’t end after the blooming season; rosehips, the fruit that forms after a bloom, are an excellent source of vitamin C. Vitamin C is essential for maintaining healthy skin. Vitamin C promotes collagen production and fights free radicals. You can make rosehip jam or rosehip tea to reap the benefits of vitamin C.

Yarrow

In the herbal world, Achillea millefolium, or yarrow, has a lot of uses. Yarrow has been used as a styptic, meaning it can help control bleeding when used externally on wounds. Yarrow can help tighten the skin because it is astringent. It has substances that are helpful in controlling fungus and bacteria. Yarrow is used a lot in herbal salves and wound washes. Dried yarrow can be powdered and added to clay and other powdered herbs for a DIY clarifying face mask.

A note of caution: while yarrow can beneficial for most skin, paradoxically, some people can experience contact dermatitis when in contact with it. If you’ve never used yarrow before, you might want to do a “patch test” to be safe. See below for more on the “patch test”.

This is just a short list of plants that can be used in body care. There are a lot of different ways you can use your plants. If you’re new to do-it-yourself skin care, I recommend learning how to make an infused oil. Once you’ve learned that you can make things like salves, lip balms, lotions, body butter, and bath bombs/salts. Keep a lookout for future posts where I will explain how to create your own herbal products.

Just like with food, there is always the potential to react to herbs. You can see if you might react to a new herb by doing a patch test on your skin before using an herbal product. You can make a strong tea (infusion) of the herb and “paint” the tea somewhere that you would notice any redness or irritation, such as the inside of your wrist. Or you can rub the fresh herb on your skin to see if you have any irritation. If you have any reactions like redness, itchiness, or hives, then do not use that herb. I wait 12-24 hours after a patch test to see if any sort of reaction shows up. This is not to be taken as medical advice. Refer to your health care practitioner before starting a new herbal regimen.

Frost dates and growing season length

Your local frost dates are key drivers for when to start frost-sensitive seeds indoors. Your last frost date in spring provides a rough indication of when it may be safe to start planting out frost-sensitive plants (which are commonly started indoors). Your first frost date in fall provides a rough indication of when your frost-sensitive plants may start dying back from the cold. Some frost-sensitive crops may need to be started early indoors to have enough time to mature and produce a harvest in your growing season (the time between the last frost date and first frost date).

In Planter, the Growing Calendar will show you the Start Inside window where you can start seeds indoors for various plants. The Start Inside window in Planter takes into account your local frost dates and common recommendations for how many weeks ahead that plant should be started indoors. It’s important to know that its not necessarily safe to transplant outdoors exactly on your last frost date- for more detail on this check out When Can I Plant Outdoors?

The Start Inside window in Planter is a range and can be used as a guideline. You’ll still want to dial in your exact seed starting dates based on the factors we’re looking at in this article.

The seed varieties you choose

While there are good ‘rules of thumb’ we can follow for when to start specific plants indoors, it can also depend on the plant variety. Seed packets will usually give specific instructions for when that particular variety should be started indoors and this can sometimes vary for different varieties of the same plant. This guidance has to do with how long it takes the seeds to germinate, how fast the plant grows to a size where it is sturdy enough to be transplanted out, and how long it takes that variety to reach maturity and produce a harvest. As an example, some ‘superhot’ pepper varieties are slow to germinate and it’s often recommended to start them weeks earlier than sweet peppers.

For cool-season crops it can be a bit tricky as the packet instructions for starting seeds indoors will be sometimes be based around when you plan to transplant out- not strictly tied to your last frost date. How early you can transplant out cool-season crops depends on the plant’s tolerance for cold (especially while young), the weather patterns, and whether you can protect them if needed. If your seed packet doesn’t have adequate information on how early you can start seeds indoors (or if you’re using saved seeds), you’ll want to do some research and connect with local gardeners to see whether its advisable to start that type of seed indoors and if so how early.

Your indoor seed-starting set-up

A major consideration for how early to start seeds indoors comes down to how quickly the plant grows and how difficult it can become to keep it healthy indoors. Without planning for this it’s easy to run out of precious indoor growing space! Grow lights typically do not produce enough light to support a plant much beyond the seedling stage so they can become leggy and stunted (or they might just not fit under the lights!) Seedlings can quickly outgrow their trays and need to be potted up to larger pots to keep them from becoming root bound. If your seedlings become leggy or root bound, most if not all of the advantage from starting them indoors will be wasted. Starting seeds too early is a very common mistake as we’re always eager to get going- but it’s often unproductive and can even be detrimental to the plants. Plants grown from weak seedlings will not be as productive as those from healthy seedlings.

Your goals and how much work you want to do

Your goals and the work you’re willing to put in should weigh into your decision on when to start seeds indoors. On one end of the spectrum, if you want a productive garden but don’t have a lot of time or space to commit to seed starting, buying seedlings is likely a better bet than doing any seed starting indoors. On the other end, if you’re an advanced-level home gardener or you’re planning on selling seedlings and produce, you may want to get your plants growing as early as possible and can invest the required time (and money) to make that happen. As your plants grow bigger you’ll need to commit more time moving trays, adjusting lighting, potting up, watering, monitoring, and managing any issues that might arise. Maintaining a fertilizing schedule also starts to become a bigger task as your seedlings grow and need more nutrients.

It also depends on how much effort you’re willing to put into protecting your crops once they’re outside. If you have a plastic hoophouse or greenhouse you can plan on transplanting outside much earlier (or may even be able to move some of your indoor seed starting operation outdoors). If you don’t have infrastructure but you can commit to taking the time to protect your plants in case of a late frost you might be able to plant them out a week or two earlier- and can plan to start them earlier indoors. Planning to plant early outdoors is a gamble so you’ll want to have a ‘plan B’ in case the weather doesn’t cooperate and you need to keep your plants inside another week or two.

Every year that you start seeds indoors, you’ll gain valuable experience on what works and what doesn’t. How fast did your seedlings grow? How difficult was it to keep everything healthy indoors? Was there anything you wished you had started earlier or later? Be sure to keep track of this information using notes and events in Planter so you can confidently answer the question ‘When is the best time for me to start my seeds indoors?’

About Ginger

Zingiber officinale, or ginger, can be grown as a perennial in zones 9 and above. In the colder zones, it can be grown as an annual. It can take over a year of growing for a ginger rhizome to be considered mature. The ginger we buy at the grocery store is mature and has a thick skin which allows it to be stored for months. If you start growing ginger at home in late winter or early spring, you will be able to harvest “baby” ginger in about 4-6 months time. Baby ginger does not store for long because it has a very thin skin, but the thin skin means it is very tender and you can slice right through it.

Where to Find a Ginger Start

Ginger is grown from a rhizome instead of a seed. Some farms offer “seed pieces” or “mother” ginger for sale. Most ginger farms sell rhizomes that are certified organic and disease-free. You can also use ginger you find at the grocery store. It’s not too common, but store-bought ginger has a small chance of carrying fungus and disease. Sometimes conventionally grown, store-bought ginger is treated with an inhibitor to control early sprouting. Choosing organically grown ginger minimizes the risk of problems with sprouting and disease.

Choose a rhizome that feels firm (no squishy, bruised, or moldy ones). Look for ginger with a few big “eyes”. This is where the sprouts will come from.

Starting Ginger

It isn’t necessary to soak ginger in water before planting, but it can take off any growth inhibitor that might be on it and it helps to rehydrate the ginger, possibly making sprouting faster. So, it’s a step worth mentioning. You can soak it overnight or for a day or two.

If you have temperatures that are consistently above 60 degrees at night, you can start ginger outside, in an area with some dappled shade and moist, rich soil.

Growing Indoors

Ginger plants grow outwards rather than deep down in the soil, so if you plan on keeping your ginger in a container, choose one that is wide, with good drainage. Good drainage is a must. If ginger sits in water it can rot. Place your ginger rhizome on the surface of a rich potting mix, with the “eyes” facing upward. You can bury it in the soil about an inch down, or you can gently firm it on the surface, topping it off with soil but leaving the eyes exposed. Either way works. Leaving the eyes exposed might result in faster sprouting. If your container is big enough, you can put more than one rhizome in. Just make sure to leave some space for growth. Water your newly planted ginger. Use a heated seedling mat to help encourage growth. Keep it somewhere warm and bright, but out of direct sunlight. Heated greenhouses are a perfect place for ginger, but as long as it is kept warm it will do well in the house.

It can take a few weeks to see any shoots or roots from your ginger. If you left your eyes exposed to the light, start covering them up with soil once you see some growth.

Mimicking a Tropical Habitat

Keep your ginger happy by making sure it gets watered regularly, not too much, but just enough to keep the soil moist. If the soil is too wet and too cold the ginger can start to rot. So it’s also important to make sure that the soil is staying warm enough. You can keep a heated seedling mat underneath your pot until it’s ready to go outside. Being a tropical plant, ginger loves high humidity in the air. Keep your potted ginger close to other potted houseplants to naturally increase the humidity. Use a humidifier in your home if your air is extremely dry. It’s a good idea to feed ginger every month with a low-nitrogen fertilizer, being careful not to apply it directly to the plant.

Moving Day

You must keep ginger protected in your home or greenhouse until outside temperatures are, ideally, in the 70’s and above. For a lot of us, that means summer. Ginger does well in pots so you can simply move your pot outdoors when the time comes. Just make sure to place it in a partially shaded spot as you don’t want to be baking ginger in the sun. If you move the plant directly into a garden bed, the same rules apply.

Harvesting

For baby ginger, the best time to harvest is 4-6 months after you started growing it. If you want to harvest mature ginger you can continue to grow it on, but you must move it back inside before the temperatures start going below 50 degrees. For mature ginger, harvest when it is about 1 year old.

Mature ginger has a tough skin so it can be stored in the refrigerator for many weeks. Baby ginger is very tender and is best used fresh. It can be stored at room temperature or in the refrigerator for about 2 to 3 weeks. You can extend the shelf life of ginger, baby or mature, by chopping it up and freezing it.

Ginger is so versatile in the kitchen and can be used for sweet or savory dishes. In traditional medicine, ginger is used to take the edge off of nausea, improve digestion, promote good circulation, and many studies show it has anti-cancer potential.

Sure, it’s easy to go to the grocery store and pick up ginger any time you want it, but there’s something exciting about growing your own. It’s nice to have a little bit of tropical flair in your garden too. If you have the extra time and a little bit of space I think it’s worth trying out at least once!

For educational purposes only and not to be considered medical advice. Please refer to your health care provider before using herbs.

Jalapeño

Recommended by Erin

Jalapeños are a classic pepper pick, but for good reason! They are versatile in the kitchen- adding a spicy kick to Mexican-style dishes- and the plants are super-easy to grow and *extremely* prolific! Just a few plants should provide you with plenty of peppers. And if you find yourself overrun with pepper harvests, no sweat- jalapeños are delicious when pickled and can also be pre-chopped and frozen. I’ve had good luck growing the Jedi cultivar from Johnny’s but there are many good seed options out there!

Lunchbox

Recommended by Erin

You might not have come across lunchbox peppers in the grocery store before but once you taste them you’ll be hooked! These tiny little sweet peppers are perfect for fresh snacking and veggie trays, although they can be cooked as well. The compact plants will be packed with oodles of peppers- so you’ll have plenty to eat in the garden harvest. While the green lunchbox peppers are edible, it’s worthwhile to leave them ripen fully to red, orange, and yellow for the best sweet flavor. Johnny’s does note- and we can confirm- that the red ones will be noticeably smaller than their yellow and orange counterparts (although all are equally delicious!)

Shishito

Recommended by Peter

If you like to live on the wild side, these peppers are for you; they are the Russian roulette of peppers. Nine out of ten are perfectly mild, then BAM, you’re hit with spice. I didn’t know this when I first grew them and only found out after offering some to my partner, who does not like spicy food. What are the chances that the one she ate would be the spicy one 😅! These peppers are delicious snacking peppers or are great grilled. When I grew them in 2021, they were extremely abundant and although very delicious, I couldn’t keep up. One or two plants should yield plenty for the average family.

Habanada

Recommended by Peter

Do you love the flavor of habanero peppers but can’t take the spice? Try growing habanada peppers, which supposedly offer the delicious flavor of habanero peppers without the zing. I’m growing these for the first time this year and will report back if they live up to the hype!

Corno di toro

Recommended by Erin

Corno di toro peppers, also known as ‘cowhorn’ peppers, are sweet peppers with a pointed, horn-like shape. Their sweet flavor is similar to a bell pepper but unique in it’s own right- perhaps more concentrated. They can be more productive than bell peppers and produce well in cooler climates. They have study skins - although not so tough that you need to take them off - that make them perfect for grilling and stuffing. They can also be eaten fresh and in salads like a bell pepper.

Cayenne

Recommended by Samantha

The easy-going cayenne is my pepper of choice. Hotter than jalapenos, and less spicy than habaneros, cayenne sits in the middle, with medium heat, and a lot of flavor. These bushy plants usually produce a lot of peppers which are perfect for drying. You can dry and grind up cayenne and use it to flavor just about any food. Like all hot peppers, cayenne is full of capsaicin, the component that gives peppers their heat. If you are looking to add more medicinal plants to your garden, cayenne is a great addition. Cayenne has been used as an herb by Native Americans for many years. Studies show that the capsaicin in cayenne may help soothe aches, enhance heart health, and more. So, if you want more capsaicin in your diet without a super intense burn, try growing some cayenne!

For educational purposes only and not to be considered medical advice. Please refer to your health care provider before using plants medicinally.

Thai chilies

Recommended by Erin

Thai chili peppers are not one single variety of chili, but in general when we refer to Thai chilies we’re referring to a small chili pod with a fruity flavor and a substantial spicy punch! If you enjoy Asian-style cooking with a kick these are a must in the garden. One or two plants should easily be enough to provide a family with ample chiles for using fresh, freezing, or processing into chili sauce. The plants are compact and low-maintenance (and did we mention prolific?) which makes them excellent candidates for container-growing and overwintering!

Poblano (Ancho)

Recommended by Milan

What poblano peppers lack in heat, they more than make up in flavor. Especially when roasted in a cast iron skillet. The smoky taste adds dimension to your weeknight dishes. When used fresh they are referred to as poblano peppers but once dried they are referred to as ancho peppers. Poblano peppers thrive in warm weather and love full sun. Provide consistent watering, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged. Harvest poblanos when they turn dark green and glossy. They usually mature in 60-80 days after transplanting.

Serrano

Recommended by Erin

Serranos might be slightly-lesser-known than jalapeños but they are favored in Mexican dishes because of their bright ‘green’ flavor and consistent heat levels. While serranos are hotter than jalapeños, jalapeños can pack an extra-hot punch every once in a while that can throw a surprise into your dishes if you’re not expecting it! In the kitchen you can use serranos in virtually any dish where you would consider using a jalapeño. If you’re looking for the flavor of a serrano but a less intense heat level you could remove some or all of the seed membranes. Serrano plants produce plenty of fruits so probably a few will do unless your family are real spice-heads!

Hungarian wax

Recommended by Erin

Hungarian wax peppers are versatile, moderately-spicy peppers (although they do have a relatively wide range of heat levels). Wax peppers are often confused with banana peppers as they have a similar appearance, but banana peppers are milder and slightly more stout. Wax peppers start off as a pale yellow color then change to orange and red as they mature. It is common to harvest them once the fruits are fully sized but still pale yellow, but they can also be harvested at the orange and red stage. They can be used to add a spicy kick to many cooked and fresh dishes but my favorite way to prepare them is to pickle them and add them to sandwiches, pizzas, and salads.

If you’re branching out from these pepper picks and adding your own custom pepper varieties, you’ll find it easier than ever to find variety icons grouped by plant! Select one of the 34 existing pepper icons that most closely matches your custom pepper. (If you’re not sure how to create custom varieties, check out this how-to doc for step-by-step instructions.)

Peter

My garden is a 20x30 ft community garden plot since I live in the woods and the oak trees shade out pretty much everything. This year I’m excited to be growing many new varieties. I’m most excited about the Habanada peppers, which supposedly have some of the flavor of a Habanero pepper without the spice. Another variety I’m excited to try is the Cosmic Purple carrots. Up to this point, I’ve only ever eaten orange carrots. Finally, I’m trying four new cucumber varieties, all bred specifically for pickling. Last year I tried pickling some regular cucumbers and was disappointed in the texture. Hopefully at least one of these varieties will do well in my garden. I’ve positioned the cucumbers and squash in one single bed so that I can cover it to prevent the cucumber beetle and squash bugs from taking over. This bed will also have all-new soil since something wasn’t quite right with the old soil (3 years of bad harvests).

I also plan to rip out the dwindling asparagus bed and put in 2 more raised beds for vining plants like watermelon and pumpkins. In between those beds will be a large garden tool chest that I’ll build to store my shovels and garden supplies.

Back at my home in the woods, I have a GreenStalk. It’s situated on my deck in the sunniest part of the yard, although it still only gets enough sunlight during the spring before the trees get their leaves. This year I’m testing the limits by planting a Patio Choice Yellow Tomato on the GreenStalk, although I doubt I’ll get many tomatoes from it. The rest of the GreenStalk is devoted to low-light veggies like lettuce, spinach, green onions, and herbs. We don’t have proper GreenStalk support in Planter (yet), but I approximated it as you can see in the screenshot. Each layer holds 6 plants and there are 6 layers. The gray boxes indicate the gaps between each layer.

Wren

I’m fortunate to have a large yard, but I’m unfortunate to have a deer problem so my gardens haven’t expanded as much as I’d like them to. Once we have the funds to create a fully fenced in garden that’ll be a different story, but for now I stick to what I can (hopefully) protect from the deer. In my veggie garden box this year I’ll be growing parsley, sage, snow peas, turnips, and bitter melon! I don’t like to eat bitter melons, but my mother in law does, so I grow them for her. Plus they attract a lot of pollinators with their beautiful yellow flowers and deer don’t much care for them at all, so they make a good natural wall to protect my other vegetables.

I often grow produce in pots as well. I have a Kumquat tree and a Lime tree that will stay in a pot their whole life because of their small size. I’m going to try growing cucumbers in a pot this year to see if it will help me stay on top of the pests better (last year’s melons and gourds got obliterated).

I’m very passionate about pollinators and local flora and fauna so I have many flower beds with native plants (many not featured in the garden plan above). I also have a young fruit orchard that will hopefully become full fruit bearing trees one day. The deer definitely make that a fighting challenge, even with tree cages. It’s my goal to one day make my yard a thriving ecosystem for both me and the animals and bugs.

Erin

I’m working with a small suburban yard so the main challenge with garden planning is always trying to cram too many plants into a small space! In addition to packing plenty of herbs and plants into my patio containers, I have a small side yard garden and four in-ground beds in the backyard to work with. The side garden receives partial sun so I’ve selected plants that won’t mind a bit of shade (the carrots will get the most sun). The four backyard garden beds receive full sun (or close to it) so this is where I’ve added sun-loving plants. Most of these plants are old favorites but I plan to try a few ‘experiments’- this year it’s watermelon, peanuts, and okra!

Samantha

This year I’m focusing on the vegetables that my family loves to eat. I have two children who love salads, so I’m letting them help out with the lettuce and radishes. Peas are always a favorite. Bok choy is a new addition.  We love salsa so there will be plenty of tomatoes, jalapenos, cayenne, and tomatillos. You can never have enough pesto either, so I am planning on lots of basil as well. I always have a couple of pumpkins in the patch too.

I put most of my energy towards my beloved medicinal herb garden and I have quite a few plants to keep track of. A lot of plants in this garden are perennials, or they self-sow, so I don’t have to do a whole lot except to keep it weeded. A short list of some of my herbs: bee balm, echinacea, yarrow, valerian, feverfew, and skullcap. I have “weeds” like plantain, dandelion, chickweed, goldenrod, and nettles. I’ll be starting some holy basil and toothache plants soon. I am adding more catnip because my dog ate them all last year! I’m a lover of lavender and I will be adding a couple of new varieties. I have typical fruit trees such as apple and pear, but this year I want to add a quince to the collection.  They are supposed to smell amazing!

Why Plants Have a Botanical Name

With hundreds of thousands of known plant species, and over 2,000 new plants being discovered every year, it’s a good thing we have a universally recognized naming system. The botanical name, also known as the scientific name or Latin name, is made up of two names, the genus and species. If you see a third name with quotations, that means it’s a cultivated variety. The botanical name is the same worldwide. You can run into confusion if a plant has a lot of common names. In England, using the common name Aaron’s rod could refer to mullein, but in Scandinavia, it could refer to rose root. Using the botanical name ensures everyone is on the same page.

Learn the Botanical Names of Herbs

With your vegetable and flower garden you are free to choose by color, size, or even by name. Who can resist a ‘Teddy Bear’ sunflower? A pumpkin named ‘Warty Goblin’ deserves a spot in the fall garden. With herbs, however, you need to have knowledge of specific varieties. In the case of the witch hazel shrub, Hamamelis virginiana is the preferred type for herbal use. Not always, but usually cultivars, like ‘Jelena’, do not have a history of traditional use. Finding a good book on herbalism will help you learn which varieties are the ones you want to use. Another good reason to learn is because some herbalists and books will only refer to a plant by its botanical name.

Safety First

Many herbs have different species and each species can have different levels of the plant’s active ingredients. All elderberries’ leaves, stems, roots, and seeds have some level of toxicity from the cyanogenic glycosides they have. Sambucus racemosa, or the red elderberry, has the highest levels of these compounds so it’s best to avoid it for herbal use. The black and blue elderberries, Sambucus nigra, Sambucus canadensis, and Sambucus caerulea, are preferred, as they have the least amount of cyanogenic glycosides, and with proper preparation, are the safest elderberries to use.

Passionflower is an herb known for its sleep-enhancing qualities. Many nurseries have passionflower for sale. But there are over 400 species of passionflower! Passiflora incarnata is what’s used most in traditional medicine.  Passiflora edulis is where we get passionflower fruit from, but isn’t used as an herb as much as incarnata is. Other types might be toxic. Knowing the botanical name is very helpful in this case.

How Planter Can Help

Planter lists the botanical name in the information section of a plant. If a specific variety isn’t listed, you can add one yourself. Check out how to create a custom variety.

Labeling your herbs in Planter is helpful for when some perennial plants disappear in the winter. Let Planter be your garden map and you won’t confuse your Echinacea purpurea with your Echinacea angustifolia in the spring. 

It might seem overwhelming to learn the botanical names, but it’s an important part of having an herbal garden. With a little studying and the help of Planter, you’ll be inviting friends over for a cup of homegrown Melissa officinalis tea in no time.

Note: If you are using Planter on Android or IoS, be sure to update to the latest version to be able to access the Seed Box.

Add seed packets to your Seed Box along with information about when you bought them (or saved them), how full the packet is, where you sourced them from, and any other notes about the seeds.

If you’ve already favorited varieties that you have seeds for, the easiest way to get started is to import your favorite varieties. Otherwise you can easily add seed packets from the varieties view or right from the seed box.

We hope you find the Seed Box handy to catalog your seed inventory and for planning your seed purchases. We’ll be continuing to roll out some very cool enhancements to the Seed Box to make the garden planning to seed purchase process super-slick!

If you have ideas for how we could improve the Seed Box or any other Planter features use the Feature Request list to upvote requests or submit a new request!