The Bouquet Blueprint

When planning your cut flower garden, consider factors such as sunlight, soil quality, and climate, as these will influence which flowers you can successfully grow. Next, select flowers that bloom at different times of the year to keep the blooms going.  Design your garden layout by grouping plants by height, color, and blooming season.  If you want early blooms, you can grow some flowers under cover, as in a high tunnel.

Early Blooms

Snowdrop

Snowdrops are a welcome sight when spring seems like it’s a far-off dream. Snowdrops are one of the first bulbs to flower, and will (as the name suggests) even flower in snow. Some plants you can combine with snowdrops are crocus, hyacinths, and evergreen cuttings. The giant snowdrop (Galanthus elwesii) is a favorite for its large blooms.

Daffodil

Is there anything more uplifting than the sunshine of a yellow daffodil on a blustery spring day? Daffodils make an excellent cut flower.  Plant a row in the fall and await that first glorious bloom. Daffodils come in many sizes and variations of yellow, white, and orange.

Ranunculus

Ranunculus is known as “the rose of spring” since it resembles a rose. These flowers love cold weather and it will go dormant when the temperatures go above 80 degrees F/ 26 C. Flowers bloom in a rainbow of colors. After they have bloomed and died back, lift the corms (the thick underground stem), and let them cure in a dry place out of sunlight. When they have dried out, store them in a cool, dark, and dry place. You can start the corms indoors around 6-8 weeks before your last frost.

Spring Bloomers

Tulips

In the fall, plant a mass grouping of tulip bulbs to display in vases in the spring. There is such a wide variety to choose from, and some are early- to late-spring bloomers. Plant different varieties to maximize the tulip season.

Sweet Peas

Sweet peas are a classic flower that adds a vintage feel to bouquets.  Sweet pea flowers have a wonderful perfume, and the more often you pick, the more blooms you will get.  Sweet peas are climbers and need a trellis or some type of support to grow on. Sweet peas thrive in the cooler spring months, but some varieties are more tolerant of heat, such as ‘Old Spice.’  All parts of the sweet pea are poisonous, so use caution when it comes to kids and pets. Do not confuse the plants with edible peas; plant them away from these.

Summer Bouquets

Cosmos

Cosmos are the perfect flower for adding whimsy to bouquets. Cosmos come in shades of red, pink, orange, yellow, and white. Cosmos offer a long growing season, just make sure to dead-head spent blooms to keep them going. These flowers prefer hot, dry areas of the garden and don’t need much fertilizer.

Dahlia

Dahlias are an incredible addition to any flower garden due to their long blooming season (right until the first frost) and the selection; with thousands of cultivars, you’re sure to find a few dahlias to love. They come in all kinds of colors, sizes, and petal shapes. Some look like pinwheels, and some flowers are the size of dinner plates. It’s important to dig up tubers in the fall if you live in an area where the ground regularly freezes or where heavy rain can make the tubers waterlogged.

Sunflower

Sunflowers are one of the easiest flowers to grow from seed. These familiar flowers can tolerate many types of soil and a great for pollinators, too. There are varieties that are single stem and pollenless so they won’t make a mess.

Zinnia

Zinnias are vigorous bloomers and keep blooming until frost. They do especially well in the heat.  They come in many vibrant and bright colors. They also come in softer colors and whites, too.  They are perfect for first-time flower growers because they are fuss-free as long as they have good drainage and soil rich in organic matter.  Don’t skip zinnias in your cut flower garden.

Foliage Filler

When designing your cut flower garden, it’s a good idea to think beyond the blooms.  It’s nice to add foliage as a bouquet filler.  Think airy additions like fennel or ferns.  Surprisingly, many flowers don’t have much scent, so herbs can be a great addition. Basil, mints, lemon balm, rosemary, and lavender can add delicate scents to bouquets.  Don’t be afraid to be unconventional and add some fruit and veggies to your bouquets!  Create a touch of surprise by incorporating blueberry plant clippings or cherry tomatoes still on the vine.

Dried Bouquets

Dried bouquets are lovely because they can be enjoyed for many months. But not every flower is a good drying candidate. Some turn brown and crumbly. Here are some flowers that are good for drying:

• Baby’s breath
• Calendula
• Echinacea
• Feverfew
• Hydrangea
• Lavender
• Queen Anne’s Lace
• Roses
• Sunflowers
• Yarrow
• Valerian

Start Planning

With summer quickly approaching, now is the best time to start creating the cut flower garden of your dreams. With the Planter App, you can visualize what your garden will look like and get expert growing tips right inside the app.

​Start with Structure​

When planning a garden from scratch, the best place to start is with “the bones.” The plants that give structure to a garden. Think hedges that offer privacy, trees that separate spaces, and tall shrubs that mark garden paths. ​Edible plants that offer structure:

​Hawthorn

Traditionally used for hedges because its spiky thorns act as a natural deterrent. In the fall, the berries feed wild birds.  The berries can be made into a jam or dried for tea.

​Fruit Trees

​Fruit trees can be planted for height in the back of a border. Dwarf tree varieties offer compact solutions for smaller gardens.  Many fruit trees can be trained in the style of espalier,  parallel tiers, to create a “living fence”. Pear and apple trees are perfect for this style of growing.

 ​Elderberry

Elderberry plants are good choices for the edible garden. In the spring, their flowers can be used to make fermented drinks or battered for a tasty spring treat. In the fall, their berries are packed with anthocyanins and are commonly used to make elderberry syrup. The birds love the berries too. Be sure to use the Sambucus nigra varieties and research the proper ways to prepare elderberries for consumption. ​

Mesquite Trees

​If you live in the Southwestern United States or Mexico, the mesquite tree (Prosopis spp.) is a lovely addition to an edible garden.  The pods are edible and have been harvested for centuries by indigenous people, who prepare and mill them into flour.  Pods can be harvested when they are ripe.  Mesquite pods must be properly dried before milling, so be sure to research this before attempting. Even if you don’t plan on using the pods, these trees are beautiful in a desert garden.

​Olive Trees

​Olive trees can give your garden a beautiful Mediterranean look, even if you don’t live in a warm environment. Olive trees can be grown in containers and protected over the winter months.  Olive trees look really nice with other edible Mediterranean plants like lavender and rosemary. ​

Second Layer

​After you’ve got your structure giving plants, it’s time to think about the next layer, which is usually medium-sized shrubs and perennials.

​Rosemary

Rosemary is great for the edible garden because it comes in many sizes. You can plant taller varieties like ‘Tuscan Blue’ to form short hedges or low-growing ones to create a spreading effect.

​Roses

Roses are a classic in any garden.  From climbers and ramblers, to floribundas and shrub types, there is a rose for everyone. The best roses for edible purposes are the species kinds like Rugosa. Dried rose petals make a lovely addition to tea blends or jellies. In the fall, rose hips look pretty, and you can make rose hip jams.

​Blueberry

Blueberry bushes can be a perfect edible plant for beauty, as long as you give them the right conditions. Blueberry bushes prefer acidic soil.  Blueberries can be grown in containers.  In the autumn, the leaves offer seasonal color interest.

​Lavender

Lavender is a top choice for the edible garden because it’s very easy to grow in the right environment. It thrives in very warm weather and plenty of sun, but most importantly, the roots have very good drainage. Lavender buds are highly fragrant and used in baking, cooking, making syrups, and teas. Use English (angustifolia) varieties for culinary use. Other types can have a more “soapy” flavor and are better used for aromatherapy. ​

The Last Layer

The final layer is of course, plants that are short, low-growing, or groundcover. Let’s explore a few:​

Lingonberry

​Lingonberries are related to blueberries and cranberries, native to Scandinavia, Europe, and northern areas of the United States, such as Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  Lingonberries are a unique plant to grow and are starting to appear around some nurseries.  If you are looking to try something new and live in an area with cooler temperatures and acidic soil, why not grow a few lingonberry plants as groundcover?   Lingonberries can be grown in the same area as blueberries, too.  The shiny leaves are evergreen, providing year-round interest. The little red berries are tart and similar in taste to cranberries. Although you’d need quite a few productive plants to really make a good harvest, the lingonberry is a fun plant to add to an edible garden. ​

Thyme

Thyme is such a versatile plant: a culinary herb, a medicinal herb, good for pollinators, and an ornamental. Grow thyme as an attractive ground cover or between pavers or pathways. ​

Oregano​

Oregano is similar to thyme in terms of versatility.  Little white flowers are great for pollinators and add beauty to the garden. ​

More Ideas​

• Grow a combination of climbing edibles like tomatoes and nasturtiums up a trellis for a colorful centerpiece of the garden​.

• Rhubarb plants make a statement in the spring with their red and green combination​.

• Create a veggie tunnel by growing cucumbers, squash, or extra small pumpkins over an arched trellis.

• Add plants for movement, but instead of grass, choose fennel, dill, and asparagus, which will wave in the wind. ​

  

• More edibles to landscape with: citrus trees, chives, sunflowers, dahlias, calendula, lilac, and hostas.

  

​With edible landscaping, you get to enjoy your garden with all of your senses!  Start planning your dream foodie garden today with the Planter App.

Garden Sage

Garden sage (Salvia officinalis) is a favorite for flavoring meats and stuffing, but it’s also a super star herb for wellness. Clinical trials show sage leaves make an effective tea for easing the pain of sore throats.  Mix in a little thyme and lemon juice for even more goodness. Not a fan of sage’s strong flavor?  You can gargle an infusion of sage instead of drinking it. ​Sage is a very hardy perennial, and you can harvest bits all winter long, but if you live in an area with very harsh winters, you may want to cover it or grow it indoors during intense weather.​

Parsley

It’s not uncommon to overindulge around the holidays and experience digestive upset.  Parsley isn’t just decoration on a plate; it’s a great herbal remedy for bloating and indigestion.  Chew a few leaves before a rich meal to keep upset tummies at bay.  Parsley is a biennial plant, so it flowers in its second year.  Parsley is hardy in USDA growing zones 6 and above, but if protected in colder climates, it can be harvested year-round. The leaves, roots, and seeds can be used for herbal purposes. ​

Horseradish

Horseradish is an easy plant to grow. The best way is to get a root division from your garden center, a friend, or a grocery store-bought root. Plant the root in the spring to be ready to harvest in the fall or winter as needed. Horseradish roots can be stored in the fridge for a couple of months, too. For sinus congestion, nothing compares to a hit of horseradish to help clear passages. You can make a prepared horseradish sauce or chop up a small piece and eat it plain if you’re brave.  Fire cider recipes are very popular in traditional herbalism, and many feature horseradish for its immune-supporting properties.

Rosemary​

Rosemary is an evergreen herb. It comes in all sizes, so there’s sure to be one that suits your garden.  Rosemary is a tough plant, but if you’re expecting a particularly rough stretch of weather, like an ice storm, you can cover up your plant. Rosemary thrives in well-draining soil.  Throughout history, rosemary has been used as a circulatory stimulant, so a cup of rosemary infusion  could be helpful when you feel you need to warm up.  It’s full of antioxidants and may help support the immune system.  When you’re feeling under the weather, try adding a few sprigs of fresh or dried rosemary to your chicken soup.  ​

Rose

​Did you know that roses have many herbal uses?  The petals are commonly used in skin care preparations worldwide.  Roses offer a unique floral flavor to herbal teas.  But what can roses offer us in the winter?  The seed head that forms after a flower has bloomed is called a rosehip.  They are full of vitamin C.  During World War II, the British made a syrup from rosehips to combat scurvy because citrus was nearly impossible to obtain.  Rosehip jelly is a popular condiment in many countries. Rosehips can be dried and added to teas. For herbal use, the best varieties to use are the wild rose species like Rosa rugosa and Rosa canina. When making teas or jellies with rosehips be sure to use cheesecloth to strain out the little “hairs” that surround the seeds. They can be very irritating to your throat!

Thyme

If you could only choose one herb to grow for a winter-wellness garden, my pick would be thyme. It’s such a versatile herb!  Thyme has well-known anti-septic and anti-viral properties. Thyme tea has been used for cold symptoms, sore throats, fungal issues, digestive complaints, and to aid in fever reduction. It’s surprising what this little plant can do!   Brew a cup of thyme tea by adding 1 tsp of fresh or dried thyme to 1 cup of boiling water. Let it sit for a few minutes and then strain.  Add lemon juice or honey for flavor. There are some really fun varieties of thyme with interesting flavors like orange thyme and lemon thyme. Thyme can be grown in a pot.​

Echinacea

Echinacea has been used for centuries for many conditions, including the common cold.  Studies have been done to see how the immune system reacts to echinacea, and there are conflicting reports. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that herbs shouldn’t be thought of as a cure-all, and we should remember that lifestyle affects our health more than any herb can. Our sleep, stress, and emotional management are also important. That said, the German Commission E is considered an expert panel on the use of plants for health, and echinacea is approved by them for the treatment of upper respiratory infections. The seeds, flowers, and roots are used in herbal preparations, with the most common varieties being E. purpurea and E. angustifolia. Try echinacea tea the next time you feel a tickle in your throat. Prepare a tincture from the roots in the fall for winter use. ​

Planning a winter-wellness garden is one way to keep the gardening fun going all year, and it could be helpful one day!  For tips on growing herbs in the winter, check out this growing guide. You can start planning your garden today withe the Planter App. Always consult with your health care professional before using herbs.

When to Harvest Roots

The best time to harvest roots is in the fall when your plant has stopped producing flowers and leaves and has started dying back.  All of the plant’s energy is being sent down to the roots to store up before the following spring, and this is when roots are at their best for herbal use. Dandelion roots, for example, have the highest amounts of inulin, a type of prebiotic dietary fiber,  in the fall.  If you can harvest your roots before the first significant frosts, the better. In the northern hemisphere, late September through early November are good times to get digging.  It’s also a good idea to harvest when you have the time to clean and process the roots, because roots start to get tough when they dry out. 

With certain plants, it’s best to wait to harvest the roots until their second or third year of growth. Some of these herbs are: elecampane, marshmallow root, and parsley.  But you also don’t want to wait too long: some roots can grow quite large and get tough and “woody”, making them hard to chop. Tough, old, woody roots are also less desirable because they may lack potency. Try to harvest roots before they get to their  4th growing season. If you let them go too long, divide them in half at the roots and replant, this can reinvigorate them.

Harvesting

The number one rule when harvesting a plant is to ensure you know what you are harvesting. Never harvest a plant if you aren’t entirely sure about its identity. If you planted it in your garden, then you most likely know what you have. Be cautious when wildcrafting. It’s safe to say most people know what a dandelion looks like. Still, there are “false dandelions,” so studying plant identification books is wise. 

After you’ve decided on the perfect day to harvest, grab a shovel or a garden fork and carefully dig around the plant, keeping in mind where the roots might be so as not to cut them (some roots grow outwards, so try not to chop them up), going around in a circle gently lifting the plant a little each time you move. Go around the plant until you can lift the root crown.  Some roots can be hard to dig up, and a special tool called a Hori Hori knife can be very handy. Make sure you don’t have roots from other plants intertwined into what you want to harvest.

Decide if you are going to harvest all of the roots or just some. If you want to replant, harvest ½ - ¾ of the root system and then replant at the depth you removed it from, removing any old stems or leaves so it can focus on rebuilding at the roots. 

Cleaning

If you harvest roots full of mud, spraying them off with a garden hose before bringing them inside can be helpful. Clean roots gently with water and a vegetable brush, but do not scrub too hard. 

Chopping

Chop the roots into pieces. It’s best to chop roots right away after harvest because some roots start to get tough, making them harder to cut. If you plan on using fresh roots for herbal products, then you should use them straight away. It’s best to use fresh roots when making some tinctures. Valerian roots, for example, are preferred by some herbalists to be tinctured fresh. 

Drying

If you plan on drying your roots, you need to do so after chopping them. Chopping them before drying ensures they will dry evenly. You can dry your herbs in a dehydrator, oven, or other method like in a paper bag. With roots, I always prefer to use a dehydrator so I know they are properly dried for storage. It can take a long time to thoroughly dry roots without a dehydrator.

Storing

After the roots have been thoroughly dried, store them in a glass container with a lid, like a mason jar or an airtight seal. Store them somewhere at room temperature and out of direct light. A dark pantry works well. Roots can be stored for 2-3 years. Some can be potent longer than that, but that is just a general rule. 

What to Make With Herbal Roots

With herbal roots, you can make: 

• Tinctures
• Infused oils
• Tea
• Vinegars
• Infused honey
• Syrups
• Condiments 
• Herbal “candy”

Ideas to Try

• Are you trying to give up caffeine and coffee but still want a hot drink with a rich flavor? Try making a tea out of dried dandelion roots. It won’t give you that caffeine rush but it is filled with prebiotic fiber your gut’s microbiome loves!
• To make infused honey, warm up some honey in a pot (do not overheat and burn the honey) or place a towel in a slow cooker and place a jar of honey on top of the towel. Add some dried herbs to the honey and let the mix infuse for several hours. Make sure not to leave unattended.  Strain the honey into a jar. Infused honeys are good for toast, mixed into teas, or eaten straight! Some of the most interesting roots to use for honey are elecampane, angelica, and ginger root (technically speaking, we use ginger rhizome, but we call it root). Heating up the honey does mean you risk losing some beneficial properties from the honey, so you can simply add dried herbs to a jar of honey and let it infuse for a couple of weeks. There are also ways to infuse honey with fresh herbs but you must make sure the water evaporates, otherwise you risk fermentation. You can find instructions on how to make infused honey with fresh herbs, on the internet. 
• Long ago, it’s said that the first marshmallows were created from the marshmallow plant’s roots. You can make an herbal syrup with the roots, which can then be made into the sweet treat we know today. There are vegan recipes and some made with gelatin. Search around for your favorite recipe. 
• Use horseradish root to make your own classic condiment or as an addition to an herbal fire cider recipe.

Sometimes, at the end of a long growing season, the last thing I want to do is get dirty and harvest the roots of my herbs, especially when it’s getting colder. But every time I do, I’m so happy I did it. Harvesting roots isn’t always glamorous work, but it’s definitely rewarding.  Always consult with your healthcare professional before using herbs.

Harvest Time Table

Ashwagandha -In its first fall before frost.

Dandelion- The fall of its first year. 

Echinacea- The fall of its third year.

Elecampane- The fall of its second year.

Horseradish- The fall of its first year, ideally after the first frost.

Marshmallow- The fall of its second or third year.

Valerian- The fall of its second year.

Tiny Tomatoes

I planted my tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, and more. Things were going well. Then we got another unseasonable blast of heat, and some of the flowers got shriveled. That has impacted my production. Usually by the end of July, my tomato plants are loaded with ripening fruit. This year, not so much. It’s August, and I do not have the amount I expected. I do admit, I could have kept a better feeding schedule. But most years, I have volunteer tomato plants that I never pay attention to, and they do awesome. I do not have any volunteer plants at all this year!

Calendula Tries to Takeover

Calendula flowers continue to pop up everywhere, and I continue to pull them out. I have let a dozen or more survive because I like to have a lot of dried flowers for the winter.

Horseradish

One plant doing good this summer is horseradish. It’s supposed to be easy to take care of and often spreads vigorously, but I’ve never actually successfully grown it for some reason. So I’m happy to see it’s still alive. It looks a little rough and I think some bugs have gotten to it, but it’s still growing. I can’t wait to harvest some! I planted it in a raised garden bed so it can’t get too out of control.

Beginner Beekeeper

For some reason, I added to my list of things to take care of and decided to try my hand at beekeeping! I got two colonies this spring, and they have grown very fast. They have been hard at work pollinating, and they especially loved my lavender! I don’t think I’ll get any honey this season as they are growing their colony and need to keep their honey for themselves this winter. It also seems everything has bloomed early this season due to the hot weather, and the bees have been trying hard to find available nectar sources this late in the summer.

Speaking of Wildlife

I’ve been actively trying to invite more wildlife into my garden lately by doing some of the things mentioned in this post that I put together. I have a lot of birds that help keep the bug population down. Ladybugs are all over my dill plants this summer, helping to control the aphids. My birdhouses have been at full capacity with the next generation hatching along. One animal I’m not too thrilled to welcome is a gopher. It’s been pushing around some of my plants. I haven’t done anything to control it because it hasn’t been too bothersome. But I’m hoping he packs up and moves along soon. I am guessing that won’t be the case though. I was delighted to see a family of skunks in my field but then remembered that skunks love honey and will break into hives. Luckily, it seems they were just passing through and they haven’t caused any trouble.

Looking Forward

Going into fall, I’ve been clearing out some old spring plants and planting a few fall crops like carrots and lettuce. My fall crops never tend to do that well; they tend to be small plants by the time the frost arrives. Some things I overwinter, like carrots and kale.

I can’t believe summer is almost over, and I’m trying to savor every day. I’m already thinking about next gardening season and what I can do to improve my garden. My family and I have been travelling a lot this summer, and my garden has suffered a bit. I will work on ways to make my garden more self-sufficient for next year, like adding a lot more mulch this fall. It won’t be long before I’m harvesting some herbal roots here. I’ll share how you harvest roots from the garden this fall!

Thanks for following along with my garden journal.

Benefits of Wildlife in the Garden

A garden with a diverse population of insects, birds, and even small mammals indicates healthy soil and a good ecosystem. If you can draw birds into your garden, they can help keep the pesky bug population in control. The more pollinators you attract, the better the pollination of your crops. Small mammals can benefit the garden by aerating the soil, even if we don’t always consider that to be helpful. Earthworms help break down dead plants and contribute to the soil’s nutrient level. Let’s look at how you can turn your garden into a thriving wildlife community.

Water

All living things depend on water to survive in some form. Adding a water feature is a sure way to show wildlife that your garden is a great place to live. It could be something as small as a bee water station or a bird bath. A pond can support many beneficial life forms if you have the space. Dragonflies depend mainly on water and can help the garden in many ways; they eat flies, mosquitoes, and other bothersome bugs.

Birds rely on shallow sources of water to drink and keep themselves clean. Birds can also significantly reduce the insect population. Add a small bird bath to keep your feathered friends around for the bug buffet.

Bees are great for gardens as they help pollinate plants. Water is crucial for bees’ health when the weather gets hot. Honeybees use water to thin nectar for honey-making and to cool down their hive. Bees can drown in deep water sources. You can buy bee-safe drinking stations or make your own by placing marbles or rocks in a shallow dish and adding water. The bees can land on the rocks or marbles and dip to get water. Bee water dishes can dry up fast, so refill them daily.

If you can manage a pond, you can host a wide variety of beneficial wildlife. Frogs, toads, newts, dragonflies, and fish can all help your garden’s ecosystem.

Shelter

Bird houses offer birds a safe place to nest in the spring and summer months. If you have the space, hedges are also great places for birds to nest. Shrubs and trees like privet, hawthorn, and holly make great nesting spots. Long grasses are also great for providing shelter to birds, insects, and small mammals. Keep an area of your lawn shaggy and unmowed, or opt for a row of beautiful ornamental grasses.

Bats conjure up spooky feelings in some people, but there’s no reason to be afraid of these awesome creatures. One bat can eat thousands of bugs in one night. DIY tutorials exist on making a simple bat house, or you can purchase one assembled. Bat houses should be around 20 feet off the ground.

“Bug hotels” give beneficial bugs shelter to live and nest. You can buy cute bug hotels or make one yourself. They can be as simple as a pile of rotting logs, too. You can learn more about the benefits of leaving leaves, logs, and other materials in the garden over the winter here.

A lot of garden centers sell mason bee houses, and you can buy the mason bees in the spring, too. Mason bees provide early pollination.

Food

Food is probably the main reason wildlife sticks around your garden; if there isn’t any food, there isn’t any reason to stay. If you want to keep birds in your yard throughout the fall and winter, consider leaving spent blooms of flowers so there will be seedheads for them to snack on. Some great options are echinacea, sunflowers, asters, and zinnia. Teasel is a common plant considered a weed to most, but its dried seedheads offer food well into the winter.

Hedgehog Habitats

If you are lucky enough to be in an area of the world with hedgehogs ( I wish), consider helping them by making your yard a hedgehog haven. Hedgehogs are night hunters and can keep your slug and snail population down. Fallen logs and protected hedges make great hedgehog homes. You can also construct or buy adorable little houses. If you have a pond, ensure that they have safe water access by providing a gradual entry or a ramp. Hedgehogs can roam long distances (by their standard), so creating a path or “hedgehog highway” can be helpful. Create spaces in the fencing so they can get around if you have a garden on the small side.

Sharing Space with our Wildlife Friends

Designing a wildlife garden is a rewarding project that benefits both the garden and the gardener. By adding in elements such as water sources, shelters, and food options, you can attract a diverse range of wildlife, enhancing your garden’s health and happiness. The Planter App can help you create the wildlife garden of your dreams!

When to Harvest

Whether or not you intend to use the scapes in your kitchen, removing them from the garlic bulb is a good idea to promote the energy into growing larger bulbs. Snip scapes just as they are starting to form a half-circle. Using scissors, snip the stalk without removing any of the leaves. You can harvest when they are a full circle shape, too, as long as they are tender. If you wait too long, the scapes will become tough, woody, and undesirable.  Scapes can be used right away or stored in the refrigerator. They are stored best in the vegetable crisper drawer or in a wet paper towel. You can also chop the scapes and freeze them for later use for up to one year. 

What to Do With Garlic Scapes

Of course, garlic scapes have a garlicky flavor, but it’s not as strong as a clove of garlic, so they are great to use in all kinds of ways. They have a chive or green onion-like flavor that goes well with a lot of different foods. 

• Chop raw scapes and sprinkle them over finished dishes or salads to add fresh garden garlic flavor.
• Saute scapes in butter for a delectable side dish, or add them to stir-fries.
• Chop up and freeze little pieces you can add to soups all year.
• Add chopped-up scapes to biscuit dough for garlicky- biscuits.
• Make a pesto for bread or pasta. 
• You can dry garlic scapes and powder them up for a tasty seasoning.

Garlic Scape Pesto Recipe

Ingredients:

1 Cup of chopped garlic scapes

½ Cup of pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts, or other nuts of your choice

½ Cup of Olive oil or more if desired

½ Cup of shredded Parmesan or Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese

1/2- 1 Tsp of salt

Squeeze of lemon juice, if desired

Whirl all ingredients in a food processor until desired consistency. Feel free to add or subtract ingredients to customize. Store in the fridge for a few days.

How to Use Pesto:

Pasta 

Grilled Cheese dip

Spread on sourdough bread

Pizza sauce

As a dip for crackers

More Reasons to Harvest Scapes

• Since you can only harvest scapes once a year, they are seen as a rare treat. You can sell them at your farmer’s markets or local restaurants to earn extra money if you have a hobby farm.
• Like garlic bulbs, scapes have high levels of antioxidants and may support heart or immune system health. 
• If you’re into making floral arrangements and don’t want to eat the scapes, put them in a vase with water and watch them bloom into an interesting bouquet. You can also store the scapes this way for a couple of days until you are ready to use them in the kitchen. 

Garlic scape season is short, so if you’ve got some hard-neck garlic growing in the garden, check to see if you have some scapes and consider trying them in your kitchen this year. Learn more about growing garlic in the Planter App.

For my 2025 garden, my primary focus has been on reclaiming the parts of it that have been overcome by grass.  My garden is very close to our hay field, and keeping grass/hay out of my garden beds is always a constant battle.  Admittedly, I didn’t do much weed control during the winter, and now I’m playing catch-up. This spring has been flying by already! 

What I’m Growing Now

I’ve planted a lot of onions. The birds like to pull them out and toss them about the garden beds. I also have some mice or voles that have made a home in my garden beds, so that has also been a challenge. I’ve been hoping my mouser cat or a falcon or owl would scoop it up, but no luck yet! 

I have one planter for my potatoes. I had to pull out a lot of newly sprouted thistles. That is also an ongoing thing for me.

My medicinal herb bed is made up of many perennials, so I don’t have to do much planting. I did add a horehound plant to it, though.  

Some seeds I have started are: ashwagandha, basil, bok choy, clary sage, garden sage, and splianthes.

Garden Maintenance

A couple years ago, I planted just two calendula plants.  Every year since I’ve had an abundance of self-seeded calendulas pop up every spring. At first, this was delightful! I use a lot of calendula when I make my salves. But last year, they started to become a “garden thug” where they got so out of control they would choke out other plants. How much calendula does a girl need?! So this year, I’m taking a proactive approach, and as much as it saddens me, I’ve been plucking out calendula seedlings all over the place. I will leave a few, of course. 

April means it’s time for me to give my lavender plants their springtime “haircut.”  This keeps their shape nice and rounded and spurs on new plant growth. 

Plans for Spring

I’ve got a lot of work ahead of me before summer arrives. I have one corner of my garden where there are tree roots very close to the surface. Every plant I’ve tried to grow in the ground there dies. This year I want to try a “no-dig garden bed,” where I will lay down layers of cardboard in a row and then cover up the cardboard with several inches of soil. You then plant directly into your piled soil, so there is no digging required. I’ve never grown anything this way, so I hope it goes well. 

Thanks for reading my springtime garden journal! My garden is sure to be buzzing with new excitement soon and I’ll be posting again.

Hummingbirds’ primary food source is the nectar of flowers. Still, they eat small amounts of bugs, helping keep insect populations in check. When they visit flowers, they also help pollinate. Tubular-shaped flowers are perfect for hummingbirds to sip nectar with their long beak. While they love nectar-filled flowers of all colors, they are drawn in by red flowers the most. If you want to add the excitement of hummingbirds to your gardens, put some of these “hummingbird magnet” plants in your garden plans this year!

Foxglove

Although all parts of the foxglove are poisonous to humans, hummingbirds aren’t affected by them. Foxgloves bloom in late spring and early summer, so they’re much appreciated by hummingbirds while they wait for summer’s bountiful blooms. Many nectar-rich flowers love sunny spots in the garden, but the foxglove prefers areas that get afternoon shade.

Larkspur

Another early bloomer in the garden, larkspurs are a favorite among hummingbirds. Like foxgloves, larkspurs are poisonous to pets and humans, but again, this is not a problem for hummingbirds.  

Snapdragon

Hummingbirds love snapdragons. The varieties ’Twinny Peach’ and ‘Sonnet*’* are noted to be especially good for hummingbirds because of their flower shape and high nectar content.

Stock

A member of the Brassica family, cool-weather-loving stock (Matthiola incana) flowers will attract hummingbirds to your garden. With growing heights of 2-3 feet tall (.6-.9m), they’ll surely grab the attention of hummingbirds in the area. 

Fuchsia

Another great flower for areas with partial shade is the fuchsia. Fuchsias are a classic hummingbird magnet. Place hanging baskets of fuchsia around your porch or patio for some up-close bird watching.  

Bee Balm

Bee balm, also known as Monarda, is a wonderful multi-purpose plant; from its herbal features to its beauty, bee balm is also an absolute favorite of hummingbirds.  Its long tubular flowers are perfect for hummingbirds to put their long beaks into. While it looks like hummingbirds use their beaks as a straw to suck up nectar, they actually slide their beaks into flowers, and then their skinny tongue shoots out and laps up the nectar! Definitely add bee balm if you are trying to bring in hummingbirds. 

Crocosmia

Crocosmias are the perfect flower for hummingbirds, especially if you get the variety known as ‘Lucifer.’ They love the bright red flowers.  Grow crocosmia in a sunny location.  While these plants are very beautiful, it’s important to note that in some areas, they are considered invasive and can become pests in your garden, especially in areas like the West Coast of the United States.

Scarlet Runner Beans

A plant that humans and birds can eat, the lovely scarlet runner bean has beautiful red and orange flowers, followed by edible bean pods.  Grow these around an A-frame trellis for a tent-like “fort” where kids can hang out and watch the birds buzz by.  Keep picking beans as summer goes on to encourage flower production.

Salvia 

Salvias are members of the mint family, and there are about 1,000 plants in the Genus Salvia.  Salvia refers to sage, but not all Salvias are the culinary kind of sage. Of all the plants in my garden, one tends to spark the most hummingbird battles: the ornamental Salvia variety known as ‘Hot Lips.’  These tube flowers are red and white, filled with a lot of nectar, and tend to keep blooming past the hottest days of summer and into the fall in my zone (8b).  If you plant some ‘Hot Lips,’ it’s almost guaranteed that you will have at least one hummingbird visitor. They also like other Salvia varieties, but I think the red draws in the birds the most. 

Plants for Hummingbird Hangouts

Hummingbirds prefer to make their nests in trees and shrubs with slender branches and high enough up off the ground to be be safe, at least 10 feet up and usually much higher. They make their nests in the forks of branches. Naturally, they choose places that are close to reliable food sources. Elder trees seem to be popular with the hummingbirds in my yard. They love the spring blooms and I often see them hanging out on the branches. Lilacs offer a great place to get a snack and possibly make a nest.

Hummingbird Feeders

You will likely become the neighborhood hummingbird buffet if you plant some of these flowers.  You can still fill feeders with nectar even if you have all of these flowers, but keep it clean and re-fill it with fresh nectar often. Hummingbirds can become very sick and even die when mold grows in feeders (which happens fast when it is hot outside).  Feeder tips:

• Always use pure white cane sugar for homemade mixes.
• Do not use the raw brown organic kind. This kind of sugar is great for us due to the minerals, but it is not good for hummingbirds. 
• Do not use food coloring. The color of the bird feeder should be enough to draw it in.

Use this ratio when making nectar with cane sugar: 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. So, you could dissolve 1 cup of sugar into 4 cups of water. 

via GIPHY

No garden needed with the method above!

Design Your Hummingbird Garden

Use the Planter App to design the hummingbird garden of your dreams!

No matter what size peach tree you have, it is still susceptible to pests and diseases. One disease, peach leaf curl, can be especially frustrating. If you have been battling leaf curl or want to avoid it, there are steps you can take in the winter to help prevent it from taking hold in the spring. 

What is Peach Leaf Curl?

Peach leaf curl is caused by the fungus Taphrina deformans.  This fungus first appears as red spots on young leaves in the spring. Soon after, those spots become stiff, and the leaf curls up. Eventually, they turn yellow or brown. The leaves can stick around but more often the infected leaves fall off the tree.  This fungus also affects new green shoots, which can affect the tree’s overall growth if the fungus isn’t controlled. With all of the leaves dying off, it is nearly impossible for the fruit to grow properly. The bad news doesn’t end with a fruitless summer: the fungus spores overwinter on the tree’s bark, where they wait to be revived by spring rains.  The cycle begins again. 

Peaches aren’t the only fruits affected by this problem; nectarines, almonds, and some apricots can also be affected. 

Where Can You Find Peach Leaf Curl Fungus?

The peach leaf curl fungus spreads very quickly in areas that have cool, wet, and humid springs. Places in the USA, like the Midwest, parts of the East, and especially the Pacific Northwest, struggle with peach leaf curl. Other places like Canada and the United Kingdom also have trouble with this plant disease. Even areas that usually have spring temperatures above 70 degrees F (21 degrees C) can have a peach leaf curl problem if they get a stretch of daytime highs in the 50’s-60’s (F), ( 10-15 C) and humid weather. 

Since the fungus sits on the bark before the leaves and buds emerge, winter is the best time to act to prevent or control an infection. 

Peach Leaf Curl Resistant Varieties

The saying that “prevention is better than the cure” applies to peach trees, too. Some varieties are more resistant, although they are not entirely immune to the disease. Keep a close eye on newly planted trees; until they get established, they are still susceptible.  If you’re adding a peach tree to your garden and live in an area with cool and wet springs, try to find one of these varieties: 

• Avalon Pride- dwarf
• Betty- dwarf
• Frost- dwarf
• Mary Jane- dwarf
• Oregon Curl-Free- semi-dwarf
• Salish Summer-semi-dwarf

Treatment

If you are experiencing a leaf curl outbreak during the spring or summer, there is not much you can do at the moment. The leaves will most likely drop off, and new healthy leaves will return. As long as it’s warm enough during the summer, the leaves will not be affected again this season. What you should do is remove and destroy any of the infected leaves. You’ll need to wait until fall to begin treatments. 

Fungicide

After the leaves have dropped in the fall, you can apply the first fungicide treatment. A popular non-toxic option for the home gardener is a copper fungus spray. Sometime in November, spray the tree according to the directions.  Spay again in January and then one final time in February. We want to spray before the buds start emerging.  It’s important to note that even though copper spray is considered non-toxic, over time, too much copper can become toxic to plants. It also seems that copper spray is at its most effective when used as a preventive.

Shelter

Sometimes, spraying a tree isn’t enough. My trees had a bad case of peach leaf curl over two seasons. It was so frustrating, but what finally worked for me was sheltering my trees in the winter. I had 2 dwarf varieties growing in the ground. After treating them with copper spray throughout the winter,  I dug them up while they were dormant and potted them up. I moved them into a cold frame to protect them from the rain. I kept them as dry as possible while they were dormant. If you don’t have a dry cover or don’t want to move trees in the ground, wrap your trees in a clear plastic draping. 

I’ve read that some gardeners plant peaches and nectarines in front of a wall to help with heat retention and make it easier to pin plastic over the trees in winter. 

Remove Leaves

Even with shelter, you still might have some infected leaves; remove and destroy any infected leaves immediately. 

If you’re feeling so frustrated with peach leaf curl that you’re ready to dig up your trees, I know exactly how you feel. I’ve been there. But I encourage you to try the covering method before throwing in the towel. You might thank yourself when biting into a homegrown peach this summer.

Check Your Compost

If you have a compost pile or bin, now is a good time to give it a good turnover. When you turn over compost, it allows oxygen in, and the bacteria get happy and continue to break down the materials. It’s not the most glamorous garden job, but it’s one of the most rewarding. Using homemade compost gives you a great sense of satisfaction. 

Move Plants

If you have any perennials that should be moved elsewhere, winter is a perfect time to do that. For example, if you have some Mediterranean herbs in an area that’s too wet, move them somewhere with better drainage.  If a plant is getting too big for its location, now is a good time to divide it. After it’s been divided, move the new plant somewhere else or give it to a friend. Perennial herbs like marshmallow and elecampane benefit from being divided every two years.   

Prune Apple and Pear Trees

If you have an apple or pear tree with excess branches rubbing against one another, it might be time for a good prune. Pruning trees can be tricky, and there is so much different advice, but generally, it’s best to start slowly. Read up on different techniques.   If you go crazy with the clippers, you risk having a small fruit harvest for the year.   Remove any branches that are weak or diseased looking. Remove branches that are rubbing against other branches.  You want to have a strong frame for your tree, but enough open space for adequate airflow and sunlight to make it through.  Prune lightly the first year; next year, you can decide if more pruning is needed. Always use clean and sharp tools when pruning. 

Plant a Winter Flower Container

Brighten up your patio or window box with some beautiful pansies and violas. Both of these flowers tolerate the cold very well and are such a welcome sight on a gloomy winter day. These flowers are excellent in containers and are usually easy to find at many garden centers starting in January. Make a colorful display to help keep the winter blahs away. 

Shop for New Gear

If you didn’t get what you wanted this holiday season, there’s no shame in buying yourself a few treats.  Check out your gardening gear and see what might need refreshing. I can always go for another pair of gardening gloves.  Gardening tools can get broken or worn out after lots of use, so that’s another thing to consider.

Weeding

Is there ever a season where weeding doesn’t need to be done?  Winter can be a great time to eliminate weeds since they are usually tiny. If you’re in a place that’s covered in snow for most of the season, it’s wise to keep your eyes peeled for signs of weeds springing to life once the snow melts.  A little bit of work now can help a lot when spring comes. 

Start Some Seeds

Believe it or not, most of us can start a few seeds in January. Chile peppers can take a long time to get going, so they can be started now (in most places). Onions, leeks, and kale can also be started in some places. Check out this recent blog post, Cold-Hardy Veggies to Start Now in the Southeast, for more details. 

Clean Out Your Seed Box

Since you’ll be starting seeds any time now, it’s a great time to go through and see what you have and what you should toss. All seeds have their own timeline for how long they will be viable.  In general, it’s anywhere from 1 to 5 years.  You can put some seeds in a wet paper towel, keep them moist, and see how many seeds sprout to show how good they are still. If most of them sprout, you can go ahead and use them for this season. Now is a great time to go through your virtual seed box on the Planter App, too. 

Plan Your Garden

January is the perfect time to start planning your garden with the Planter App. With new features and plants being added, creating the garden of your dreams is easier than ever. Let Planter help make this your best gardening season yet!

Different Methods

There are different ways to make an herbal-infused oil. The easiest way is known as the folk method. Herbs are placed in a jar, covered with your choice of oil, and left to sit for a few weeks.  Dried herbs are usually preferred over fresh because your oil is more likely to grow mold when you use fresh plant material. That said, if you take specific measures, you can make an oil with fresh plants.  Sometimes, fresh plants are preferred for certain infusions, like when making St. John’s Wort oil. 

Use the warm method if you don’t have a few weeks to wait for an infusion.  Dried herbs are still placed in a jar and covered with oil, but they are heated at low temperatures for a few hours up to a few days.  The most common way to do this is in a crockpot on low (in a water bath or lay a towel underneath the jars). This is faster than the folk method, but you must stir the mixture regularly and ensure it isn’t getting too hot. It’s also a good idea not to leave the crockpot completely unattended. 

Which Oil to Choose

What you want to do with your oil can help you decide which oil to choose. Olive oil is a popular choice for herbal infusions because it does not go rancid as quickly as other oils. It’s also fairly neutral in smell. Olive oil is a good choice for most skin types, and it is not known to clog the skin, but it can feel too heavy for some.  Olive oil is a good choice for salve-making.  Avocado oil is also good for salves, and since it’s “heavy,” it’s a good choice for soap making. 

Some oils that feel light on the skin are argan, apricot, and meadowfoam. 

Whatever you choose, it’s always best to use an oil that is “cold-pressed” or “expeller-pressed.” This means that no weird chemicals or damaging heat were used to make the oil.  Cold-pressed oils have the best shelf life.

Herbs

Several herbs can benefit the skin:

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)-This superstar herb soothes skin, promotes wound healing, and is gentle enough for the whole family.

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)-used for stubborn wounds that need a little extra care. (do not use comfrey over deep wounds due to concerns about pyrrolizidine alkaloids).

Lavender -has anti-inflammatory properties and makes a great base for homemade whipped body butter.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) -is known to have anti-fungal and antiseptic properties. 

A note of caution: while using herbally infused oils is generally very safe, everyone reacts differently to plants.  A patch test can be helpful to determine if you will tolerate a new herb. Rub a dot of herbal oil on your inner wrist and wait 24 hours to see if any irritation appears. If you are allergic to certain plants, always know what family an herb belongs to before using it.  

The Folk Method Way to Infuse Oil

Supplies needed:

A clean jar with a lid

Enough dried herbs to fill your jar halfway

A small piece of wax paper (if you’re using a metal canning lid for your jar)

Oil

Supplies for when it’s time to strain:

Coffee filter or cheesecloth/muslin 

Funnel 

A clean jar

Amber bottle 

Infuse the Oil

1. Grind your dried herbs using a mortar and pestle, crumble them by hand, or chop them up. This ensures a good extraction of the herb constituents or healing properties.
2. Fill a jar halfway with the dried herbs.
3. Cover the herbs oil, but leave ½-1 inch of space at the top. You do not want to overfill the jar. The herbs are going to soak up the oil and expand.  If your jar is too full, you might experience an oil leak.  If your jar isn’t full enough, you could expose your mixture to too much air, leading to a shorter shelf life. 
4. Label your jar with the type of herb(s) and oil used. Put the date on your label to track how long it has been infusing.  Masking tape is a good label because it comes off easily. 
5. Place the jar in an area that is reasonably warm and dark. Some herbalists prefer to infuse their oils in the sun, and in some cases, such as when making a St. John’s Wort-infused oil, this is the traditional way. I always infuse St. John’s Wort oil in the sun (and with freshly wilted flowers), but I keep all other infusions in the dark. It helps protect your oil from any deterioration from the sun. 
6. Let the oil infuse for 4-6 weeks. Remember to check on it and give it a gentle shake or roll every day or so. Resist the urge to open the jar to see what’s happening. You want to avoid exposure to the air as much as possible. 

Time to Strain

1. After 4-6 weeks, it’s time to strain. If you go over 6 weeks, it’s not a big deal; nothing bad will happen. Infused oil has a shelf life, so it’s best to get it to use. 
2. To filter your oil, you will need a clean jar, a funnel, cheesecloth, or a coffee filter. A regular mesh strainer will generally not filter out all the tiny bits of herbs very well. 
3. Place the funnel into the jar and line it with the cheesecloth or coffee filter.  Carefully pour your mixture over the filter.  It takes a while for the oil to filter, especially if you use a coffee filter.
4. After a while, you can use a clean spoon to press down on the herbs to help extract the oils they have soaked up. Or, with clean hands, you can very carefully squeeze the filter or cheesecloth to get every last drop you can. You can compost the herbs afterwards.
5. Sometimes, even after good filtering, you can be left with cloudy debris of herbal sediment. Let your oil settle to the bottom, and slowly pour it into another jar, trying to avoid the sediment. Or you can filter that oil one more time. 
6. A couple of drops of Vitamin E can be added to help maintain the oil’s freshness. It does not kill germs, but it helps fight oxidation.
7. Your oil is now ready for bottling or being used in making salves or other herbal products.  
8. Bottle the oil in dark-colored bottles or jars. This helps protect the oil from light and air. Use bottles with small necks. Store the oil in a cool, dark location. Always use clean hands when dispensing oil. Properly stored herbal oils, on average, last around a year. 
9. Label the bottle with the type of oil used, the herb(s) used, and the date it was made. 

Herbal oils are perfect for gift making.

Look out for a video on how to make an herbal infusion, on our YouTube channel.

Dried Bouquets

Dried flower bouquets let you extend the beauty of cut flowers well past summertime.  You can personalize your bouquet with the receiver’s favorite flowers. You can also use seed heads and foliage of plants in addition to the flowers. The best time to cut flowers is after any dew has dried and right before they are in full bloom. Gather your bouquet and secure the bunch with garden string or a rubber band.   Hang upside down in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area for a few weeks. Dried bouquets make great decorations that can brighten up any space. Some good plants for dried bouquets are lavender, yarrow, poppy seed heads, grasses, sunflowers, and roses. 

Dried Fruit and Vegetables

Fruit and vegetables can be dried and then packaged up for gift-giving.  Dried fruit makes a tasty snack or oatmeal topper.  Dried vegetables can be used in soups, pasta dishes, and more.  A dehydrator works best for drying produce, but fruit high in sugar and acid can be dried outside in the sun.  Most tomatoes are high in acid and so can be sun-dried. Be sure to research the best techniques for drying your own garden pickings. 

Pressed Flowers

Flower pressing is a hobby that goes back quite a long time. Pressing flowers is one of the easiest ways to enjoy your garden in a tangible way. There are some really neat flower presses you can buy. Otherwise, you can flatten flowers between a piece of wax paper and use books to press down on the plants for a couple of weeks. The secret is to use plants that are not too bulky or full of moisture. Suggested plants are roses, calendula flowers, yarrow, ferns, lavender, daisies, California poppies, Queen Anne’s lace, and zinnias. After a couple of weeks of pressing, check to see if the plant is fully dried, and look out for mold. If there is any mold, sadly, it needs to be tossed. There are so many things you can make with pressed plants. You can make greeting cards and gift tags, decorative pictures using clear panes, and more. 

Herbal Tea

If you have an abundance of chamomile flowers, consider using them as part of an herbal tea gift basket. Combine your flowers with a loose tea leaf infuser, and you have a gift that promotes relaxation. Other good herbal teas are lemon balm, rose petals, sage, lemon verbena, or any combination.  

Kitchen Spices

Almost everyone can appreciate a homegrown gift of dried spices. We all have to eat, so dried kitchen spices can be a universally loved gift! It’s a great way to use that extra harvest of rosemary, sage, or thyme.  For garlic lovers, you could give up a few cloves or a whole garlic braid if you’re generous. 

Lavender Hot Chocolate Mix

For something unique, lavender hot chocolate mix can be easily made at home. Harvest some lavender cuttings and hang them to dry upside down. English varieties are best to use for flavoring.  In a couple of weeks, after they are fully dry, collect the dried flower buds by stripping them off of the stems.  Mix 1 TBSP of dried flower buds into 1 cup of your favorite premade hot cocoa mix, or make your own blend. Dried lavender is pretty strong in flavor, so you can use less if you like. Package in a jar and label.  You could make a pretty label with pressed flowers, too!

Herbal Bath Soak

Dried herbs can be mixed with Epsom salt to enhance bath time.  Chamomile and lavender are a fantastic mix for a sleepy-time bath blend.  Sage and rosemary can be supportive to use during a cold.  You can also add different kinds of salts for color and relaxation.  Dead sea salt can give your mix a luxurious spa feeling. Pink Himalayan salt adds a fun color.  Add layers of salt and dried herbs in a jar.  Get creative.  Rose petals are a classic herbal bath addition.  Add a muslin bag to contain the herbs to avoid any mess in the bath. 

Time to Start Planning

Handmade gifts take effort, so give yourself plenty of time. Making gifts with your plants is a fun way to connect to your garden. If friends and family enjoy spending time in your garden, then chances are they will be moved by a thoughtful gift that came from the source. Happy gifting!

What Should Pets Eat?

There are debates about the “right” diet for cats and dogs. In the wild, dogs are omnivores.  They eat meat, of course, but they also eat the stomachs of animals, which are usually full of fermenting plant material. Cats’ stomachs are very acidic, so they can survive primarily on meat.  However, plant fiber can help feed the bacteria in cats’ stomachs.  Some people feed their pets kibble, some choose wet food, some cook their pet’s meals from scratch, and some feed pets raw food. Ultimately, the choice is up to you, but if you want to give your pets some home-grown treats or you hope to enhance their health, sharing your garden bounty is a good way to do so. 

It’s important to note that animals’ bodies digest and process some plants differently than us, and sometimes the wrong food can be harmful. Start with a small amount when giving your pet a new food for the first time. If you are feeding your pets packaged dried fruit, be sure xylitol isn’t used as a sweetener because it is toxic to animals. PetMD.com is a good place to find out which fruits and vegetables are safe for cats.  The American Kennel Club has good information regarding dogs.  It’s always a good idea to check with your pet’s vet before introducing new foods, especially if they have health concerns.

Dogs

Some dogs love fruit and veggies, and some want nothing to do with them! If your dog wants nothing to do with fresh veggies, you can try cooking them and adding them to your dog’s food.  Fruit and veg can be an excellent way to add fiber to your pet’s diet, which can be lacking in kibble.

According to the AKC, here are some safe fruit and vegetables for dogs (not a complete list): 

• Apples- make sure they don’t eat too many seeds
• Bananas- try blending up frozen bananas and peanut butter for a dog smoothie
• Blueberries- frozen blueberries are a nice treat on a hot day!
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cantaloupe
• Carrots- carrots make a good chew toy (supervise your pet so they don’t choke)
• Celery
• Cranberries- know any dogs who like them?
• Cucumbers
• Green beans- cooked green beans are a hit with a lot of dogs
• Ginger- technically an herb, but good for upset digestive systems
• Peaches
• Pears
• Peas
• Pumpkin-a great base for homemade dog treats and pumpkin seeds have essential fatty acids 
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes- small amounts of ripe tomatoes are okay
• Strawberries
• Watermelon

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Asparagus- difficult for dogs to digest properly
• Avocado
• Cherries- the pits, stems, and leaves can cause problems
• Chives
• Garlic
• Grapes
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions

According to the AKC, citrus and spinach are potentially safe but it’s better to avoid them. Dogs should only be fed cooked potatoes in small amounts, and they should never be fed green potatoes. Dogs shouldn’t eat green tomatoes or any part of a tomato plant.

Cats

Cats don’t have sweet taste receptors, so most don’t like fruit. Most cats will pick a platter of tuna over a pile of green beans, but if you have a cat with a sophisticated palette, you can try some snacks from the garden. If your cat won’t try fresh produce, you can dehydrate the fruit or veggies, then powder them, and sprinkle a little on their food. And of course, cats (and dogs) usually love catnip!

Safe fruit and vegetables according to PetMD (not a complete list):

• Apples
• Asparagus
• Bananas
• Blueberries
• Blackberries
• Broccoli
• Cantaloupe
• Cranberries
• Cucumber
• Ginger- an herb that’s good for upset digestive systems 
• Pear
• Peas
• Peppers
• Pumpkin
• Raspberries
• Ripe tomatoes

Fruit and vegetables to avoid:

• Chives
• Citrus
• Garlic
• Green tomatoes
• Leeks
• Onions
• Rhubarb

The same applies to potatoes for cats and dogs: cook potatoes before serving and never feed them green potatoes.  Cats can have tiny pieces of ripe tomatoes. They should never eat green tomatoes or any other part of a tomato plant.

Other Pets: 

Birds:

Birds can and should eat a lot of fruit and vegetables. This website is a good resource for learning more about what is safe. Avoid garlic, onions, avocados, and head lettuce varieties that are high in water content. 

Gerbils and Hamsters:

Be mindful of the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables that hamsters and gerbils eat. Too many snacks high in water content can cause gastrointestinal distress. Keep your serving sizes small. These pets can safely enjoy apples, bananas, berries, lettuce, kale, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and more!  

Rabbits:

These veggie lovers will eat almost every plant in a garden! However, rabbits are not recommended to eat onions, leeks, garlic, raw potatoes, or iceberg lettuce. Dark and leafy lettuce is okay. 

Fish: 

I was surprised to learn that pet fish can eat treats from the garden. You might want to research all of the things that different types of fish can eat, but some produce fish can eat (according to research online, I am not a fish expert) are cucumber, lettuce, carrots, pieces of pumpkin, apples, pears, berries, and zucchini.  Word on the internet says to avoid oranges and watermelon.

Peter, the creator of Planter, gives his fish red lettuce that has bolted. They love it!

Next time you’re out harvesting, see if anything sparks your pet’s interest.  Their favorite garden treat might surprise you!

Paper Bag Method

The paper bag method is nice because it doesn’t require anything fancy.  Place your herbs in a clean paper bag, ensuring not to fill it too much because good air circulation is critical for successful drying. Leave the bag somewhere with good airflow, that is above 65 degrees F. This method doesn’t work very well if you put the bags in a cool and damp place. If you can hang the bag up on a hook, that helps with proper airflow; if not, you can use a fan in the area.  If you live somewhere very humid, you might want to add a dehumidifier to the room. Some good herbs to try this method are chamomile, rose petals, sage, thyme, yarrow, etc.  If you are trying this with roots, you must have the roots cut up into small chunks and you must keep the room warm and with low humidity. For roots, I strongly recommend investing in a dehydrator.  Each paper bag should only have one kind of plant, and it’s a good idea to write the plant’s name on the outside of the bag.

Hang Drying

You can dry bunches of herbs with long stems by tying their stems with twine or using rubber bands and hanging them upside down on a hook or a hanging drying rack. Clothes drying racks can be put to use for drying herbs. Keep them somewhere well-ventilated, out of direct sunlight, and away from steam, condensation, or moisture sources in the air. This is the preferred way to dry lavender, especially if you want to keep dried bunches for decor. 

Drying Racks

Herbs can be laid on top of mesh drying racks, allowing air to circulate all around. Keep racks out of direct light and in a well-ventilated area. Stir the herbs around every few days. You can find racks in stores, online, or even make your own out of an old window screen. 

Dehydrator

If you plan on drying a lot of herbs or want a fast(ish) way to dry herbs, then you might want to use a dehydrator. Using a dehydrator is the most reliable way to dry roots.  Dehydrators come in many styles and budgets. When using a dehydrator, you don’t want the temperature to go above 100 degrees F, as this can compromise the quality of the herbs.  A suitable average temperature for herb drying is 85-90.  While herbs are drying, it can be helpful to stir them occasionally.  Drying times can vary depending on how much you are processing. A dehydrator assures you that those tougher-to-dry herbs, like calendula, with their resin-rich centers, won’t mold during storage. It’s worth mentioning dehydrators can give off a lot of heat, which can be unwelcome if it’s already hot in the area you are dehydrating.

Ready for Storage

Herbs can be stored when they crumble easily, or their stems can be snapped in half cleanly. If they are bendy or soft at all, they are not ready. If there is even just a little moisture left, herbs can mold. If you dry your herbs on stems, you can remove them from the stem. Stems don’t hold much goodness in a plant. Cut roots in half to check if they are thoroughly dried.  Dried herbs are freshest if you keep them in their whole form. They tend to lose potency faster if you crush or powder them before you are ready to use them. The best containers to store herbs in are air-tight glass ones.  You can use plain old Mason jars.  Try to keep your jars in a dark area and out of light. Light can degrade the quality of herbs. Always label your jars with the plants’ names, and you can add the date that you jarred them up. If you keep your herbs in a cool and dark place, dried flowers and leaves can stay potent for a year or more. Roots can stay vibrant even longer.  If your stored herbs have lost their smell and look less than vital, it’s time to compost them.

Some herbs can be frozen for use in the kitchen. Sage, lemon balm, rosemary, and bay leaves can be frozen in plastic bags or ice cube trays.  

Moldy Herbs

If herbs aren’t thoroughly dried before they are stored, mold can grow. If you find mold on any of your stored herbs, it’s best to compost that batch.  It can be disheartening to throw away a whole jar of herbs, but mold spores are present, and it’s not worth risking your health. 

Having your own stash of dried herbs is an amazing way to connect with your garden, even when the first days of winter arrive. Give it a try this season! Check the Planter app for more information on harvesting herbs.

Harvest Timelines

• Harvest aromatic herbs like basil, lemon balm, sage, and oregano just as the flowers are beginning to open. This is when the volatile oil levels are strongest, giving you a more flavorful or potent herb. You can use sharp scissors to remove leaves individually or snip stems with the leaves attached.
• Flowers and the tops of flowering herbs like yarrow, chamomile, and roses are best picked right as they are starting to bloom or not too long afterwards.
• Dill and fennel seeds can be collected right before they begin to dry, so they are still highly aromatic. You can cut the flower head off and hang it upside down to dry, then put a paper bag around the flower head to collect the dropping seeds.
• Herb roots and rhizomes are usually harvested in the fall when the plant is dying back and sending all of its constituents to be stored in the root for winter.  Check back this fall for the steps on how to harvest and dry roots.

To Wash, or Not to Wash?

If you are planning on using culinary herbs fresh in your cooking, then you can rinse them off with some water just as you would vegetables. You can rinse your herbs prior to drying them too. Lay them out to dry after rinsing before you move on to the drying process. Not everyone does this because it may increase the chances of the herbs holding onto moisture and molding in storage. You can also spray your herbs with a garden hose a day before you harvest them; that way, they’ll have time to dry off before harvesting. Washing herbs before harvest may increase the time it takes to dry them. If you don’t spray your herbs with chemicals, you keep your pets out of your garden, and you don’t see dirt on them, you don’t necessarily have to wash herbs, especially if you’re concerned about increasing chances of molding. Either way, after harvesting, you should look through the herbs and remove any damaged or diseased-looking plant parts.

More Tips

• It’s best to harvest on a dry day, just after dew has evaporated, and before any extreme heat.
• Be mindful not to take too many leaves or flowers from one plant at a time, as this can stress the plant and sometimes lead to its demise. 
• Only harvest your herbs when you have time to start the drying process.  Plants start breaking down pretty quickly, so you want to process them as fast as possible. An exception is for herbs like chamomile and calendula that have these teeny tiny bugs crawling all over them. I like to let those bugs have a chance to move out before I dry, so I let them hang out in the shade for a while. I don’t really want a bunch of bugs in my dried herbs!
• Use a large bag or loose-weaved basket to avoid crushing your herbs while harvesting. 
• Only harvest what you think you will use. This can be tricky to determine sometimes, especially during your first year harvesting a plant.
• If you plan on saving seeds for next year, remember that before you harvest too much of a plant.

Harvesting your own herbs is so rewarding! When you’re ready to learn the best practices for drying herbs, make sure to read this next post in the herbs series!

How Do Weeds Get in my Garden?

Even if you’ve been weeding your garden for years and have never seen a toxic or poisonous plant, weeds are always on the move. Their goal is to get around as much as possible. Some weed seeds are spread by the wind, and some by birds.  Some seeds can lay dormant in the soil for years only to spring to life after being stirred by digging or animals. If you are starting a garden from scratch, some good advice is to dig your beds and then let them sit undisturbed for a couple of weeks; that way, if weed seeds germinate, you can turn them into the soil.  Below, you’ll find some common weeds that you should get to know.

Nettles

Stinging nettles get their name for an apparent reason. If you touch the plant, you will experience a burning and stinging sensation, sometimes lasting for hours after the encounter. Very unpleasant, yes, but not life-threatening. Nettles are loved by many for their edible and herbal uses and are valued for their high mineral content. Once nettles are wilted or dried, they are unable to sting. One person’s “weed” is another’s treasure. They’re not very menacing, but you should get to know them, especially if you live in a wooded area or along a stream or river. Stinging nettles can be found worldwide, especially in Europe, Canada, and the United States. 

Wild Carrot

Daucus carota, or wild carrot, can be found all over the world in fields, meadows, and roadsides.  The young leaves, roots, and seeds are all considered edible (do not eat during pregnancy), and many people forage for wild carrots.  So why is it on this “watch out list”? It’s rare, but some people can get a painful rash after touching wild carrot sap. Also, wild carrots are related to some very poisonous plants and can be mixed up with other plants if you don’t know what they look like, so it might be a good idea to learn about them. 

Foxglove

Foxglove is a beautiful plant that you can find at many nurseries. The flowers are an essential part of the cottage garden look.  If your environment is just right, you might find some of these beauties pop up in your garden bed, probably spread by the wind.  As welcome as they might be, it’s worth noting that if they are ingested, they can be deadly.  Foxglove has cardiac glycosides known as digoxin, that can affect the heart.  Something to remember if you have small children, curious pets, or are new to herbalism, as the leaves can look similar to some medicinal herbs. Modern medicine uses foxglove to make medicines for the heart, but don’t try it at home. 

Poison Oak and Ivy

If you live in North America, you may have heard about poison oak or poison ivy.  If you’re unlucky, maybe you’ve experienced the horrible rash they can give you. Unfortunately, I am familiar with it. You will probably not encounter any in your garden. Still, poison ivy and oak can thrive in a variety of conditions, so it doesn’t hurt to learn (the rash hurts worse!). Poison ivy and poison oak are different species, but both have urushiol oil, which gives the leaves a shiny appearance.  Just brushing against it can be enough to bring on the rash. As the saying goes, “leaves of three, let it be!”. But if you can’t let it be, whatever method you decide to take against it (physically removing or chemically), wear pants, long sleeves, and disposable gloves to be cautious. Wash your clothing afterward; the oil can stick to clothing and transfer to the skin. 

Giant Hogweed

Giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum) is a native of Asia but can be found in Europe, parts of Canada, and parts of the United States. If you touch the sap of giant hogweed and expose yourself to sunlight, you will experience photo-dermatitis or burning blisters. It’s reportedly very painful and much worse than any poison oak or ivy rash. The sap can damage your eyes if they get touched. Giant hogweed lives up to its name by reaching heights between 15-20 feet tall. Giant hogweed looks similar to some other Apiaceae family members. If it’s still in its rosette stage of growth (where the leaves are growing close to the ground before a stalk comes up, usually in the first year), it can be hard to identify. If you think you found some on your property, do not touch it. Many states require you to call a hotline and report it if you ever come across some.

Poison Hemlock

If you only have time to research one family of plants, I suggest you learn about the Apiaceae family. Another problematic member of this group is poison hemlock. Native to Europe, North Africa, and parts of Asia, the National Park Service says that poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) is now found in every state in the U.S. It’s also becoming more common in Canada, Australia, and South America. All parts of this plant are poisonous to humans and many animals. The sap won’t cause the same burns as hogweed, but it can cause a rash. If the plant is ingested, it can cause seizures, coma, or death. Some people seem more sensitive to it than others, and there have been reports of people getting sick from unknowingly pulling it with bare hands. Children are especially vulnerable to accidental poisoning.

This plant loves disturbed soil (such as when creating a new garden bed), and the seeds can lay dormant for up to 6 years. It starts as a low-growing rosette resembling a light green fern. It can range from 2-10 feet tall. It can be identified by its splotchy reddish-purple stalk. The stalk is completely smooth and hollow. If you pull one out, it will have an unpleasant smell. It’s recommended that you get a professional to help with the removal. If you are determined to remove it yourself, wear disposable gloves, protective eye gear, long sleeves and pants. It’s recommended to wear a mask to minimize the risk of inhaling the “fumes” it puts out when its removed. Do not burn or compost the pulled weeds. Dispose of them in a trash. Weed-whacking the plants is not recommended either.

Although poison hemlock is usually found on the side of roads and fields, I recently found some growing between gravel in my garden path and among some lilies.  My neighbor had one show up in a pot, which grew several feet tall with flowers, until they realized what it was. 

Toxic and Poisonous Plants in Your Area

You can get to know the local weeds in your area by visiting the extensions website local to your area. You may never need to deal with these weeds, but knowledge is power. If you familiarize yourself withe them now, you can save yourself from an unfortunate incident in the future.

Supplies needed:

• One healthy basil plant (preferably one that has not flowered yet)
• Scissors or trimmers
• A jar or propagating vessel
• Water

How to Take Basil Cuttings

1. Choose a stem that is 2-4 inches tall.
2. Trim just below the leaf nodes.
3. Strip the lower leaves off of the stem, about two inches up. Make sure to leave at least two leaves up top attached to the stem. 
4. Place your cuttings into clean water.  Basil doesn’t need to be dipped into rooting hormone to develop roots, especially if you do this in the spring and summer months when there is a lot of natural light.  
5. Place your cuttings in an area with a lot of natural light, like a window sill.
6. Change the water every couple of days.

Wait for Roots to Develop

Roots should start appearing in about 2-3 weeks. After you have roots around 1-2 inches long, they can be potted up or moved directly into the garden. If you pot them, use a good soil mixture; basil likes moist soil. In summer, you can plant the cuttings directly into the ground or garden bed. Basil likes heat so if it’s still getting cold at night, it’s best to keep it in a pot until it warms up.

Repeat

Once your transplanted cuttings get established, you can take cuttings from those plants and keep the process going as long as you want. Once frost returns, it’s time to move the basil back inside, of course.

This video shows the process:

It really is that easy to keep the basil-goodness going all summer and beyond. It’s like getting plants for free! A few more herbs you can propagate in water are: rosemary, sage, and oregano.

If you’re looking for more budget-friendly garden tips for this season, check out this post: 

Harnessing Local Resources for Your Garden

Benefits of Growing Herbs in Containers:

• You don’t need a ton of gardening space.  You can grow herbs right on your patio.  You can grow herbs indoors, too, but they will thrive outside with fresh air and natural light. 
• You can easily control the growing conditions, like soil type and light requirements.
• For those with mobility challenges, container gardening can make accessibility easier.
• If you ever decide to move to a new location, your plants are ready for the move, too!
• Having your culinary herbs close by means you will use them more—no trudging to the garden in the summer heat for a sprig of rosemary.
• It makes your porch or patio look amazing.

Things to Consider: 

• When growing in containers, it’s good to remember that most plants need good drainage to thrive. Of course, some plants love moisture and can handle “wet feet,” but plants generally like drainage. So many times, I’ve gotten excited about a beautiful pot only to see it didn’t have a drainage hole at the bottom. In those cases, sometimes you can drill a drainage hole in the bottom. It’s also a good idea to elevate pots to keep them off the ground so they can drain properly.
• Before filling your pot, covering the drainage hole is helpful so the soil doesn’t spill out of the bottom. You can use landscaping fabric, pieces of mesh bird netting, a stack of coffee filters, or “crocks,” which are broken pieces of terra cotta pots. 
• When the weather is hot, you must monitor your container-grown plants to ensure they don’t dry out too much.
• If you plan on growing shrubs or small trees in pots, make sure you use a container that can handle some wind and not tip over easily. 
• Don’t plant your herbs in any pot that has the potential to leach toxins into the soil. For example, some pressure-treated woods may have chemicals that can be taken up by plants. Plastic is generally recognized as safe, although some people choose to stay away from it. 
• Strawberry pots are suitable for herbs that don’t mind too much confinement, like mint or basil. Trailing herbs like nasturtium also do well in strawberry pots. 

Basil

Basil does very well in pots and is easy to grow inside on a sunny window sill. Outside, basil does well in a location with full sun. Basil is a staple in Italian cuisine and a beloved medicinal herb in the Ayurvedic tradition. Holy basil, also known as Tulsi, makes a wonderful tea for the nervous system. The most frost-hardy variety of Tulsi is reported to be Ocimum africanum. Give your basil well-draining soil and keep it moist. Harvest all varieties of basil before the flowers bloom to keep the plant leafy and bushy. 

Catnip

Many cat owners grow catnip strictly for entertainment purposes.  A lot of cats get loopy after some whiffs of this mint family member. According to PetMd, when cats sniff catnip, they inhale a substance called nepetalactone, which triggers a release of natural opioids. But catnip isn’t just for cats; it’s also a great herbal companion for humans without the opioid interaction. It’s a gentle herb used to soothe digestion, calm fevers, and ease congestion. Catnip can be a vigorous spreader, but you can stop this by growing it in pots. Catnip prefers full sun and well-draining soil; do not overwater it. If you have cats (if you don’t, you’ll probably attract some neighborhood cats), you might need to protect the plant from being munched down to stubs and knocked over. Don’t overlook your dog, too.  My dog is famous for taking down a plant in one bite (it’s not recommended to allow this happen though)! You can put a little cage over catnip if it’s getting too much attention. Sometimes a cage isn’t enough though. If anyone has a pet-proofing plan for catnip, please let the Planter team know below!

Chamomile (German)

If you want to add chamomile to your garden but don’t want a lot of chamomile babies popping up next year, try growing it in a container. A 12-inch pot is a good size for one plant.  German chamomile isn’t very picky about soil or light, and it can take some shade, but I believe it blooms better in a sunny location.  You don’t need to worry about fertilizing chamomile either. No wonder this fuss-free flower has a reputation for relaxation. 

Chives

Chives are a familiar favorite in the kitchen garden. They can have a warming effect on digestion, so they are a great food herb to add to dishes. The beautiful blossoms can be picked and infused in vinegar for a yummy salad dressing or marinade. Chives love rich, moist soil. Make sure to add some all-purpose fertilizer to your container before planting.

Ginger

Ginger is a fun herb to grow at home. Try starting ginger from roots you get at the grocery store. Ginger grows outward. You can use a shallow pot, but it needs to be wide. The absolute must for container-grown ginger is good drainage! Ginger is very susceptible to rotting if there isn’t sufficient drainage. Ginger loves consistently moist and fertile soil, so keep an eye on this plant all summer. Keep it out of direct sunlight too.

Lavender

Lavender is a Mediterranean native, so it loves free-draining, gravelly, sandy soil, meaning it can thrive in a container.  Their root system can be pretty big, so choose a pot that will be large enough as it grows.  Mix equal parts of regular potting soil and perlite to ensure good drainage.  To avoid root rot, elevate your pot with an elevator on wheels or the “pot feet” that lift the pot off of the ground. Lavender needs full sun, so give it a spot with prime sun access. There are so many varieties and sizes of lavender.  The “dwarf” varieties are compact and perfect for a small patio garden. 

Licorice

Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) has a distinct flavor that not everyone enjoys, but humans have used licorice for a long time. Originally used for brewing beer and for use in medieval apothecaries, licorice root began to flavor sweets in Yorkshire, England, hundreds of years ago, and it is still used in some brands of black licorice candy. Many teas contain licorice root because it has so many uses in herbal remedies. Licorice is a very slow-growing plant, and it can take a long time until you get enough roots to make it worthwhile to dry and use, but it’s still fun to grow some in a pot.  Licorice seems to prefer a pot that allows ample room to grow.  It likes full sun and very well-draining soil conditions(keep it watered but don’t overdo it).  Move your pot to a sheltered place if it’s very wet during your winters.  Licorice is slow to return in the spring and sometimes looks dead before it gets buds in later spring (at least, this has been my experience). Harvest licorice root in its third year. You can propagate it by root division in the spring.

Spilanthes

Buzz buttons. Electric daisies. Toothache plant. Eyeball plant. Spilanthes (Acmella oleracea) has many unique names and is a fun herb to grow! One tiny taste of this unusual flower will tingle up your tongue and mouth. It’s hard to fully describe the feeling, but one try, and you’ll understand why “buzz” buttons and “electric” daisies are nicknames.  Toothache plant isn’t a substitute for a trip to the dentist, but a swish of the tinctured plant can offer some relief for toothaches, due to the numbing sensation it gives. If you can’t find spilanthes in your area, it is pretty easy to grow from seed and it can thrive in containers. Grow it in full sun and very rich soil, and ensure it gets watered regularly. 

Thyme

Another Mediterranean native, thyme, does exceptionally well in pots!  There are so many varieties and flavors to choose from, such as orange thyme, lemon thyme, French thyme, oregano thyme, and more.  Whatever variety you decide on, make sure to give it good drainage and not-so-fertile gravelly soil. Thyme likes full sun.

Willow

Sometimes called nature’s aspirin because of its high salicin content, willow bark has a long history of use in folk medicine. Willow trees can grow very big and very quickly. They love to grow along streams and wet places.  There is a dwarf variety that doesn’t mind growing in pots (as long as you upsize the pot as needed), which is the purple willow.  You can grow this willow in regular potting soil.  Purple willow can handle part shade or full sun, just keep its roots as cool and moist as possible. I have been growing purple willow in a pot for a few years, and my pot does not have a drainage hole. Even when the container gets full of rainwater, the shrub does not seem to mind. The inner bark of willow is usually harvested in the spring and then dried. Use pruned willow branches for basket weaving or making plant trellises. Propagating willow is easy, and if you put a clipping directly in the ground and keep it watered, it should root! Willow is good for making living fences by propagation.

Experiment with Other Herbs

Many other herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lemongrass, aloe, green tea, and violets, also do well in pots. If you don’t have space for a garden bed, but there’s an herb you want to grow, there’s no harm in testing it out to see if it can thrive in a pot. Taking chances and experimenting is what gardening is all about!

Calendula

Calendula can be very soothing to red, irritated, and puffy eyes. To make a strong infusion for an eyewash, make sure your hands are clean (since you’ll be touching near your eyes) before you:

Add 1 tablespoon of dried calendula to a jar.

Pour ½ cup of boiled water over the flowers and cover them with a jar lid or a plate.

After 15 minutes, strain the infusion using a coffee filter.

Soak a clean cloth into the infusion and cover your eyes. It’s okay if some of the tea gets into your eyes.

If you have allergies to plants in the Asteraceae (used to be Compositae) family, also called the marigold/ragweed/daisy family, you may want to avoid calendula. We’re trying to make your symptoms better, not worse!

Chamomile

Allergies can wreak havoc on you during the day and sometimes at night! Trying to sleep with a stuffy nose is almost impossible. Chamomile has anti-inflammatory and sleep-enhancing properties, so it could help promote a good night’s sleep. Try a cup of chamomile tea before bed or an herbal steam to help with congestion. How to make an herbal steam:

Put 1 tablespoon or more of dried herbs into a bowl.

Cover the herbs with some boiled water.

Drape a towel over your head to create a little “tent” while you hover over the bowl, being careful not to get too close to the steam. Take some deep breaths for a few minutes.

Chamomile is also in the Asteraceae family (marigold/daisy/ragweed), so use it with caution if you have allergies to plants in this family.

Elderberry

Elderberry is a popular herb to use during cold and flu season, but it may also have benefits during allergy season. There aren’t a lot of studies on elderberries’ effect on the symptoms of allergies, but one from 2013 suggests it can be helpful when dealing with allergies. Scientists say they need to do more research (as is the case with many herbs), but many people have anecdotal evidence elderberry has helped calm their symptoms. We do know that elderberries have a bioflavonoid called quercetin. Researchers think quercetin can help with symptoms like watery eyes and runny nose. Elderberry syrup is delicious and full of antioxidants, so it’s an herb worth considering!

Elderberries contain cyanogenic glycosides. Cooking or drying neutralizes these glycosides. Only use ripe berries from the blue and black varieties, do not use red elderberries. Remove any stems from the berries as well.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod, Solidago spp., sometimes gets a bad rap as an allergy-causing weed. Of course, you can be allergic to anything, but it often gets mistaken for a look-alike plant: ragweed. Ragweed pollen flies through the air like it’s on a mission to cause misery. Goldenrod pollen is too heavy to fly around and cause mayhem. It might become your best friend if you get excess mucus production during a pollen attack. Goldenrod is known as a remedy against congestion in the sinuses. It’s also known to be a “drying” herb, so if you tend to feel dry, like dry skin, eyes, or mouth, try goldenrod on a short-term “as needed” basis.

Goldenrod is another herb in the Asteraceae family.

If you are foraging your own goldenrod make absolutely sure you have the right plant. You don’t want to mix it up with another poisonous look-a-like such as tansy.

Horseradish

Lovers of horseradish sauce are probably familiar with horseradish’s ability to clear the sinuses. Horseradish for sinuses goes back to the days of folk medicine. Don’t overlook horseradish for your home garden if you have sinus problems; it could be worth growing. Because it can spread quickly, consider growing it in containers. Next time allergies cause a sinus situation, try whipping up a batch of sauerkraut with horseradish, or if you’re brave, hold some grated horseradish in your mouth for about 30 seconds.

Nettles

You may have had a close encounter with stinging nettles (Urtica dioica) and have no plans to get involved with this plant again. If you have allergies, you should reconsider. It’s true that nettles can leave you with a painful sting if you come into contact with hairs, but once nettle leaves are wilted, dried, or cooked, they can’t sting you anymore! Nettles are full of vitamins, minerals, and anti-inflammatory substances. Current research shows its anti-inflammatory effects may be helpful for nasal congestion and sneezing, and it may have antihistamine properties. Most herbalists suggest working with nettle weeks before your typical symptoms start to get the full benefits. Nettles are another drying herb, so be aware of how you feel if you take them as a tonic.

Urtica dioica may lower blood sugar and blood pressure, so it is recommended that you avoid it if you take certain medications.

Sage

A sage gargle might be helpful if you get an irritated and scratchy throat from allergies.

Put 1 teaspoon of dried sage (Salvia officinalis) in a jar and add 1 cup of boiled water.

Cover the jar and steep for 10-15 minutes. Strain and gargle with the tea for a couple of minutes.

Remember this tip next time you have a sore throat from an illness. This study shows it can be effective in cases of illness, too.

Thyme

If you experience tightness in your respiratory passages during allergies, an herbal steam with thyme could help loosen things up. Thyme is also known to be an expectorant or mucus mover, so a nice cup of thyme tea might help ease congestion. A touch of honey in thyme tea makes it even better.

When it comes to seasonal allergies, nothing is a quick fix, but maybe something on the list above can give you a little break so you can get out and enjoy your garden. If you want to learn more about growing herbs, check out these other growing guides:

Grow Abundant Herbs

Why Should I Grow Herbs in my Garden

Herbs aren’t intended to replace prescription allergy medications. This information is about seasonal allergies, not anaphylactic severe allergies. It is for educational purposes only and should not be considered medical advice. Please refer to your healthcare provider before using herbs.

What Does Native Mean

Plants are considered native if they grow naturally in a region and can thrive in their environment without much human help.

Humans have been traveling the world with plants for a long time. Sometimes, plants are transported around the earth by accident. Animal fur and clothing fiber are perfect vehicles for sticky seeds.

Non-native vs. Invasive

“Non-native” and “invasive” get mixed up sometimes. A lot of invasive plants can be non-native to an area, but not every non-native is automatically invasive. Lavender is native to the Mediterranean, but you can find it worldwide now, and it isn’t doing any harm. To be considered “invasive,” a non-native plant needs to cause damage to the ecosystem. An invasive plant can crowd out or take over the local plants. In the southern United States, kudzu, an Asian vine, can grow a foot a day in early summer and smother plants around it. In the Pacific Northwest, English ivy can overwhelm whole forests. Plants labeled as “noxious weeds” can also cause a lot of problems and tend to be non-natives.

Many plants sold at garden centers are considered non-native or “exotic.” They can survive in our gardens, but they might need extra attention and care. Depending on where you live, non-native plants may have higher water needs, more problems with pests, and a greater nutrient need. Using fertilizers, extra water, and chemicals for pest control can mean you spend more resources, money, and time to keep them looking their best. That said, there are low-maintenance non-natives. For example, Mediterranean plants like thyme and rosemary are fuss-free if given sufficient drainage.

Benefits of Native Plants

Reduce Air Pollution

Native plants tend to need less ongoing maintenance to look good, and using powered garden equipment less means reduced air pollution.

Use Less or No Chemicals

Because natives are adapted to the soil in a specific area, they don’t usually have as many pests or diseases that non-natives might have to battle, so you don’t need to turn to pesticides or herbicides. That, in turn, helps protect against run-off that happens when chemicals are not applied correctly. Run-off can end up in our waterways, hurting aquatic life.

Conserve Water

Native plants can use water efficiently. As lovely as it looks, a lush green lawn in the desert can drain your wallet and possibly the habitat around it. Many desert dwellers opt for a landscape of arid native plants and leave just a little patch of grass for the kids and pets to play on. Suppose you don’t have an irrigation system. In that case, you might spend a lot of time watering by hand, and depending on your region, you might be able to cut down the time spent watering by using native plants.

Support Your Local Wildlife

Native plants help support the native wildlife in your area. Some insects and animals depend on native flora for food and shelter. Certain plants and animals have evolved together and help each other out. It’s not to say that the non-natives are bad guys and won’t help the wildlife in our gardens. I’ve never seen a bee snub a lavender blossom because it isn’t from my area. It’s just that certain wildlife and plant relationships are particular. For example, animals rely on cacti in the Southwestern desert for food, water, and shelter.

North America has over 100 native species of Asclepias or milkweed. Monarch caterpillars depend on milkweed for food. It is the only thing they eat. If you’d like to help protect the monarch butterfly, consider planting some milkweed in your garden; the caterpillars will thank you.

It’s good to know that milkweed is toxic to pets and livestock, and humans should avoid touching the sap.

Save Money

I must admit I’ve wasted a lot of money and time on things I should have never tried to grow. I’ve fallen for some trendy plants that couldn’t tolerate my wet winters or cold snaps. I’ve tried to overwinter some plants only to have them die despite my best effort. I’ve added more native plants every season, and most are thriving. It’s nice to have plants that can take care of themselves, for the most part.

Where to Find Native Plants

Interest in gardening with natives is growing, and nurseries are paying attention. Some nurseries focus all of their time on growing native plants. If you garden in the United States, you can find out what plants are native to your region here. Canadian gardeners can check out this link. If you are a gardener living outside of the U.S. and Canada, consider finding a local gardening club or an environmental conservancy group to find plants for your area.

Gardening with natives isn’t all or nothing. Many non-natives get along just fine with the local flora and fauna. But if you want to bring your green lifestyle outside, consider adding more natives to your landscape.

Aloe

Aloe deserves a top spot in our herbal body care garden lineup. Many of us reach for aloe after getting too much sun. It’s great at soothing irritated and sun burned skin. The gel inside of a leaf offers some relief of the itchiness that follows a burn too. In the case of minor burns from touching something hot, aloe can be useful. Aloe thrives in deserts and it’s perfect for gardens with arid conditions. If you don’t live in the desert, aloe is easy to grow in a container as a houseplant. Aloe needs a lot of bright, but not necessarily direct, sunlight so it’s best to put it near a south facing window. Water an aloe about once a week, but make sure you let the soil dry out between waterings, and be careful not to overwater it, too much water can kill an aloe. Container-grown aloe can be moved outside in the summer.

Bee Balm

Monarda, or bee balm, is a favorite for pollinators and hummingbirds, but it’s also an amazing plant for skin care. Bee balm is known to smell a little “spicy” and that spiciness comes from its high thymol content. Thymol has powerful antiseptic and antifungal properties, making bee balm a good choice when dealing with issues like build-up on the scalp or fungal infections of the skin. You can infuse apple cider vinegar with bee balm for a clarifying scalp rinse. You can make a strong tea, called an infusion, of bee balm and apply it as a compress to support blemish-prone skin. Monarda didyma (most commonly found at nurseries) and Monarda fistulosa are the types of bee balm to use as herbs.

Calendula

If I had to recommend just one herb for a body care garden, it would be calendula. In my opinion, Calendula officinalis is the leader of the herbal skin care world. Calendula is famous for its anti-inflammatory effects on skin. Today’s science is studying what traditional medicine has known for years, that use of calendula is associated with a potentially faster recovery time for injured skin. Harvest the whole flower head, after any dew has dried, ideally mid-morning, and dry for later use. Calendula can take a long time to fully dry out, but a dehydrator can speed up the process. With your dried flowers you can make infused oils for bath salts, turn the oil into a soothing salve, use dried flowers in a bath tea, or you can make an infusion to use as a compress on irritated skin. Calendula is a very enthusiastic self-seeder, which I find delightful, but you might not. So keep deadheading your flowers to prevent an enormous amount going to seed.

Chamomile

The lovely little chamomile isn’t just for tea! This mighty flower makes a perfect addition to a sleepy time bath tea blend. Make a strong infusion and add it to bathwater. A cloth soaked in chamomile tea is a treat for sunburned skin.

Elderflower

Since ancient times, people have been using Sambucus to enhance their beauty. The fragrant elderflower is full of antioxidants. Antioxidants fight free radicals that can cause inflammation on the inside and outside of our bodies. Use elderflower tea internally or externally to promote healthy skin. Salves infused with elderflower are popular for baby creams. Add some elderflower tea to lukewarm bathwater when you need to cool yourself down.

Fennel

Fennel seems more appropriately used in a spaghetti sauce, but surprisingly, fennel can be helpful in the pursuit of glowing skin. Fennel seeds have a lot of antioxidants and have antiseptic properties. Ground up fennel seeds can be mixed with honey or yogurt and turned into a wonderfully exfoliating face mask. Gentle exfoliation removes dead skin which is helpful if you’re prone to breakouts. With special emphasis on the word gentle. Too much scrubbing can lead to irritation and redness, the exact opposite of what you want.

Lavender

Besides being an amazing plant for pollinators, lavender is fun to use in herbal body products. A lot of us love the smell of lavender and it can be dried and used to scent products you can make at home: soaps, lotions, body butter, salves, lip balms, infused oils, calming bath salts, bath teas, and more! The variety ‘Grosso’ is prized for its intense smell and it creates a lot of buds, so it’s a great choice for an herbal body care garden.

Rosemary

Rosemary is a very popular culinary herb so maybe you already have some in your garden. If not, you might want to add this multi-purpose plant! Olive oil infused with dried rosemary makes a wonderful hair/scalp treatment (and marinade too but don’t mix them up)! Rosemary has been used to help boost hair growth and studies show this isn’t just an old wives’ tale. Rosemary is a favorite for those with very oily skin too because it has a strong astringent effect.

Roses

Way back when, you could find the ancient Egyptians using roses to maintain their beauty. Roses are one of the most famous ingredients in natural based skin care. Rose petals are soothing and have anti-inflammatory actions on the skin. Roses are suitable for all skin types. Rose water is a popular way to use the petals and you can make it at home. The power of the rose doesn’t end after the blooming season; rosehips, the fruit that forms after a bloom, are an excellent source of vitamin C. Vitamin C is essential for maintaining healthy skin. Vitamin C promotes collagen production and fights free radicals. You can make rosehip jam or rosehip tea to reap the benefits of vitamin C.

Yarrow

In the herbal world, Achillea millefolium, or yarrow, has a lot of uses. Yarrow has been used as a styptic, meaning it can help control bleeding when used externally on wounds. Yarrow can help tighten the skin because it is astringent. It has substances that are helpful in controlling fungus and bacteria. Yarrow is used a lot in herbal salves and wound washes. Dried yarrow can be powdered and added to clay and other powdered herbs for a DIY clarifying face mask.

A note of caution: while yarrow can beneficial for most skin, paradoxically, some people can experience contact dermatitis when in contact with it. If you’ve never used yarrow before, you might want to do a “patch test” to be safe. See below for more on the “patch test”.

This is just a short list of plants that can be used in body care. There are a lot of different ways you can use your plants. If you’re new to do-it-yourself skin care, I recommend learning how to make an infused oil. Once you’ve learned that you can make things like salves, lip balms, lotions, body butter, and bath bombs/salts. Keep a lookout for future posts where I will explain how to create your own herbal products.

Just like with food, there is always the potential to react to herbs. You can see if you might react to a new herb by doing a patch test on your skin before using an herbal product. You can make a strong tea (infusion) of the herb and “paint” the tea somewhere that you would notice any redness or irritation, such as the inside of your wrist. Or you can rub the fresh herb on your skin to see if you have any irritation. If you have any reactions like redness, itchiness, or hives, then do not use that herb. I wait 12-24 hours after a patch test to see if any sort of reaction shows up. This is not to be taken as medical advice. Refer to your health care practitioner before starting a new herbal regimen.

About Ginger

Zingiber officinale, or ginger, can be grown as a perennial in zones 9 and above. In the colder zones, it can be grown as an annual. It can take over a year of growing for a ginger rhizome to be considered mature. The ginger we buy at the grocery store is mature and has a thick skin which allows it to be stored for months. If you start growing ginger at home in late winter or early spring, you will be able to harvest “baby” ginger in about 4-6 months time. Baby ginger does not store for long because it has a very thin skin, but the thin skin means it is very tender and you can slice right through it.

Where to Find a Ginger Start

Ginger is grown from a rhizome instead of a seed. Some farms offer “seed pieces” or “mother” ginger for sale. Most ginger farms sell rhizomes that are certified organic and disease-free. You can also use ginger you find at the grocery store. It’s not too common, but store-bought ginger has a small chance of carrying fungus and disease. Sometimes conventionally grown, store-bought ginger is treated with an inhibitor to control early sprouting. Choosing organically grown ginger minimizes the risk of problems with sprouting and disease.

Choose a rhizome that feels firm (no squishy, bruised, or moldy ones). Look for ginger with a few big “eyes”. This is where the sprouts will come from.

Starting Ginger

It isn’t necessary to soak ginger in water before planting, but it can take off any growth inhibitor that might be on it and it helps to rehydrate the ginger, possibly making sprouting faster. So, it’s a step worth mentioning. You can soak it overnight or for a day or two.

If you have temperatures that are consistently above 60 degrees at night, you can start ginger outside, in an area with some dappled shade and moist, rich soil.

Growing Indoors

Ginger plants grow outwards rather than deep down in the soil, so if you plan on keeping your ginger in a container, choose one that is wide, with good drainage. Good drainage is a must. If ginger sits in water it can rot. Place your ginger rhizome on the surface of a rich potting mix, with the “eyes” facing upward. You can bury it in the soil about an inch down, or you can gently firm it on the surface, topping it off with soil but leaving the eyes exposed. Either way works. Leaving the eyes exposed might result in faster sprouting. If your container is big enough, you can put more than one rhizome in. Just make sure to leave some space for growth. Water your newly planted ginger. Use a heated seedling mat to help encourage growth. Keep it somewhere warm and bright, but out of direct sunlight. Heated greenhouses are a perfect place for ginger, but as long as it is kept warm it will do well in the house.

It can take a few weeks to see any shoots or roots from your ginger. If you left your eyes exposed to the light, start covering them up with soil once you see some growth.

Mimicking a Tropical Habitat

Keep your ginger happy by making sure it gets watered regularly, not too much, but just enough to keep the soil moist. If the soil is too wet and too cold the ginger can start to rot. So it’s also important to make sure that the soil is staying warm enough. You can keep a heated seedling mat underneath your pot until it’s ready to go outside. Being a tropical plant, ginger loves high humidity in the air. Keep your potted ginger close to other potted houseplants to naturally increase the humidity. Use a humidifier in your home if your air is extremely dry. It’s a good idea to feed ginger every month with a low-nitrogen fertilizer, being careful not to apply it directly to the plant.

Moving Day

You must keep ginger protected in your home or greenhouse until outside temperatures are, ideally, in the 70’s and above. For a lot of us, that means summer. Ginger does well in pots so you can simply move your pot outdoors when the time comes. Just make sure to place it in a partially shaded spot as you don’t want to be baking ginger in the sun. If you move the plant directly into a garden bed, the same rules apply.

Harvesting

For baby ginger, the best time to harvest is 4-6 months after you started growing it. If you want to harvest mature ginger you can continue to grow it on, but you must move it back inside before the temperatures start going below 50 degrees. For mature ginger, harvest when it is about 1 year old.

Mature ginger has a tough skin so it can be stored in the refrigerator for many weeks. Baby ginger is very tender and is best used fresh. It can be stored at room temperature or in the refrigerator for about 2 to 3 weeks. You can extend the shelf life of ginger, baby or mature, by chopping it up and freezing it.

Ginger is so versatile in the kitchen and can be used for sweet or savory dishes. In traditional medicine, ginger is used to take the edge off of nausea, improve digestion, promote good circulation, and many studies show it has anti-cancer potential.

Sure, it’s easy to go to the grocery store and pick up ginger any time you want it, but there’s something exciting about growing your own. It’s nice to have a little bit of tropical flair in your garden too. If you have the extra time and a little bit of space I think it’s worth trying out at least once!

For educational purposes only and not to be considered medical advice. Please refer to your health care provider before using herbs.

Why Plants Have a Botanical Name

With hundreds of thousands of known plant species, and over 2,000 new plants being discovered every year, it’s a good thing we have a universally recognized naming system. The botanical name, also known as the scientific name or Latin name, is made up of two names, the genus and species. If you see a third name with quotations, that means it’s a cultivated variety. The botanical name is the same worldwide. You can run into confusion if a plant has a lot of common names. In England, using the common name Aaron’s rod could refer to mullein, but in Scandinavia, it could refer to rose root. Using the botanical name ensures everyone is on the same page.

Learn the Botanical Names of Herbs

With your vegetable and flower garden you are free to choose by color, size, or even by name. Who can resist a ‘Teddy Bear’ sunflower? A pumpkin named ‘Warty Goblin’ deserves a spot in the fall garden. With herbs, however, you need to have knowledge of specific varieties. In the case of the witch hazel shrub, Hamamelis virginiana is the preferred type for herbal use. Not always, but usually cultivars, like ‘Jelena’, do not have a history of traditional use. Finding a good book on herbalism will help you learn which varieties are the ones you want to use. Another good reason to learn is because some herbalists and books will only refer to a plant by its botanical name.

Safety First

Many herbs have different species and each species can have different levels of the plant’s active ingredients. All elderberries’ leaves, stems, roots, and seeds have some level of toxicity from the cyanogenic glycosides they have. Sambucus racemosa, or the red elderberry, has the highest levels of these compounds so it’s best to avoid it for herbal use. The black and blue elderberries, Sambucus nigra, Sambucus canadensis, and Sambucus caerulea, are preferred, as they have the least amount of cyanogenic glycosides, and with proper preparation, are the safest elderberries to use.

Passionflower is an herb known for its sleep-enhancing qualities. Many nurseries have passionflower for sale. But there are over 400 species of passionflower! Passiflora incarnata is what’s used most in traditional medicine.  Passiflora edulis is where we get passionflower fruit from, but isn’t used as an herb as much as incarnata is. Other types might be toxic. Knowing the botanical name is very helpful in this case.

How Planter Can Help

Planter lists the botanical name in the information section of a plant. If a specific variety isn’t listed, you can add one yourself. Check out how to create a custom variety.

Labeling your herbs in Planter is helpful for when some perennial plants disappear in the winter. Let Planter be your garden map and you won’t confuse your Echinacea purpurea with your Echinacea angustifolia in the spring. 

It might seem overwhelming to learn the botanical names, but it’s an important part of having an herbal garden. With a little studying and the help of Planter, you’ll be inviting friends over for a cup of homegrown Melissa officinalis tea in no time.

What Makes a Plant an Herb?

So, first of all, what makes a plant an “herb”? The dictionary tells us an herb is: “a plant or plant part valued for its medicinal, savory, or aromatic qualities”. Herbs can be annuals or perennials. They can be shrubs or trees. They can be disguised as plants you always thought were just ornamental in the garden. Some common garden vegetables are considered herbs! For example, there are many studies on the heart health benefits of garlic.

There are many ways to enjoy herbs. It can be as easy as brewing a cup of tea or adding them to your meals. You can learn the art of making tinctures, salves, and infused oils. One of the best ways to enjoy herbs is just by tending to them and watching them grow. 

Culinary vs. Medicinal Herbs

You already know that we use culinary herbs, like rosemary, to add flavor to food. And you probably know some herbs that are used as supplements, such as Ginkgo biloba.  But people are often surprised to find out that a lot of the herbs sitting in their spice cabinet have a long history of use in traditional medicine! Thyme is an herb that is considered both culinary and medicinal.  Echinacea, on the other hand, is not quite as tasty and is usually only used for enhancing health. Some herbs are also too strong to use more than just a little bit at a time.

The Benefits of Having an Herbal Garden

• A lot of herbs are great for bringing in pollinators 

• Many herbs help repel garden pests

• No need to buy herbs at the store for your cooking

• Plants like nettles can be used to make a garden compost tea for fertilizer

• You can save money by making your own herbal preparations

• Adds to the feeling of self-sufficiency 

• Connects you to your heritage

• Helps you take charge of your well-being

How do I choose?

If you’re ready to add herbs to your space, you might be thinking about where to start. Here are some considerations: 

• How much space do you have? Do you have enough room to have herbs such as elderberries? Or do you need to stick to the patio with container gardening? The good news is that a lot of Mediterranean herbs like thyme, rosemary, and lavender do excellent in pots.
• Do you want herbs mainly for flavoring your cooking?
• Do you have the time for annuals? Or are perennials that come back on their own preferred? 
• Do you want to plan a tea garden?
• Do you want to grow enough herbs to keep a well-stocked home apothecary?

Plants like rosemary, thyme, and sage are good beginner herbs and they tend to be available at most nurseries and garden centers. They are also pretty easygoing. If you’re beyond the beginner herbs, chamomile, yarrow, parsley, and several types of mint are easy to find. For the more unusual herbs you might have to get them from a specialty shop or online. A quick internet search can point you to some medicinal herb companies.

Can I grow herbs in the fall and winter?

Cold-hardy herbs like parsley, bay leaf, winter savory, and some types of rosemary can be grown and harvested in the winter. They can be left outside as long as they have soil with good drainage. If you live in an area with very cold winters, look for varieties that are best for your growing zone. For some, growing herbs indoors is a better choice. Thyme, garden sage, and mint are easy to grow inside. You can often find potted basil at the grocery store too, even in the winter. You might have to supplement with a grow light during the darkest part of the year. Growing herbs indoors during the winter is a great way to pass the time while you dream about spring.

No matter what size garden you’re working with, be sure to include herbs in your garden plan in Planter.