Here’s hoping for a good monsoon season. 

As for what I’ve been up to, here’s a snapshot.

I trimmed all the trees this winter. I’ve been working on my skills and trying to keep the trees more ‘full’ looking while still being safe and accessible for me and for the birds; there are a couple of nests this year. I saved some of the trimmed wood to create some wildlife habitats in the garden, and I’ve seen an increase in the number of solitary bees this year, which has been wonderful, particularly the Valley Carpenter Bee (Xylocopa sonorina). They’re quite large, and they make me a little jittery, but they’re harmless, really, and they’ve been pollinating everything so wonderfully. Despite the heat, the Yellow Bells of Tecoma, one of my favorite desert shrubs (it’s quite unusual in that it looks quite ordinary for being a desert native plant),  has bloomed better than ever. 

Last fall, I collected a dozen or so acorns and planted them. I was concerned that with the warm weather, they would not germinate, but despite fewer frosts, our overnight lows were still very cold, so I have 6 wonderful oak trees. I did have 9, but I lost 1 to a leaf-cutter bee and 2 to a bad windstorm. Still, a successful project. 

My native corn is well underway, with the tallest plants almost reaching 2 feet. They should mature just before the worst of the summer heat starts, allowing me to harvest, and then plant again in August for a second crop.

I’ve been struggling with pocket gophers this year; it feels like an army of them moved in. I spent two weeks installing hardware cloth to protect the plants. They managed to take out three shrubs, four ornamental flowering plants, and three dozen seedlings before I persuaded them to relocate to the outskirts of the yard, where I don’t mind them working through the weeds around the trees.

Right now, I also have pepper, cucumber, beetroot, and radish seedlings ready to transplant. The temperature swings over the past month have made hardening off difficult, and the cardinals have been rather peckish as well. Still, I have a healthy number of plants ready to go.

It’s going to be a busy year, I think—but I’m looking forward to it.

Reusing a portion of this water in the garden is a practical way to conserve freshwater resources and reduce overall household water consumption, especially in regions facing increasing water scarcity.

In this article, we’ll cover the basics of greywater use in the garden, how to apply it safely, and key considerations to help you navigate what can be a complex but highly useful area of sustainable gardening.

What is Greywater?

In broad terms, greywater is household wastewater that doesn’t come from the toilet. For gardeners, it usually refers to water from showers, baths, washing machine rinse cycles, and bathroom sinks.

It may still contain small amounts of soap, oils, and other residues, but it is typically less contaminated than “blackwater” (toilet or sewer-contaminated water). With the right preparation, it can sometimes be reused in the garden.

Is Greywater Safe For the Garden?

The short answer is: yes. But there are important limitations.

Greywater should generally not be used on edible crops where the harvested portion comes into direct contact with the soil. This includes most root vegetables such as carrots and potatoes, as well as ground-level crops like pumpkins and melons. Instead, greywater is best suited for ornamental plants.

Taller fruiting plants, such as fruit trees, are also suitable for greywater irrigation, as the water remains in the root zone and away from edible surfaces.

What About Soaps and Food Products?

Safe use also depends heavily on what goes into the water. Household products such as soaps, shampoos, and detergents vary widely, and some contain salts, fragrances, or other additives that can accumulate in soil over time. Whenever possible, choose biodegradable, plant-friendly cleaning products designed for greywater systems.

Additionally, greywater should be used within 24 hours of collection to reduce bacterial growth, especially when sourced from kitchen or bathroom sinks.

If your home uses a water softener, it’s important to note that softened water contains higher levels of sodium, which can negatively affect soil structure over time. In these cases, alternating with rainwater or freshwater irrigation can help prevent buildup.

Finally, greywater should be viewed as a supplementary irrigation source rather than a complete replacement unless it is properly filtered. Without filtration or treatment, residues can accumulate in soil over time. However, periodic flushing with clean water helps maintain long-term soil health.

The Benefits of Using Greywater in the Garden

Conserves Fresh Water

Lawn irrigation and garden watering can account for between 50-80% of a household’s water consumption in some regions. Using greywater reduces reliance on city or well water sources, making gardening more sustainable.

Reduces Water Bills

Reusing water that would otherwise go down the drain can cut water costs, as you’re using some gallons twice!

Provides Nutrients to Plants

Greywater often has trace amounts of nutrients like phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen, which can benefit plant growth. It is not a substitute for fertilizer, however.

Greywater Best Practices

As mentioned previously, there’s a scale to how good and clean greywater is. It can also be time-consuming and difficult to collect unless you have a household greywater system, which can be expensive to install. Here are some practical tips. 

Good Sources:

• Bath and shower water
• Laundry rinse water (from eco-friendly detergents)
• Bathroom sink water
• Kitchen rinsing water from unprocessed foods (without detergents or additives)

Sources to Avoid:

• Dishwashers
• Washing water with oils or meat residues
• Laundry water with strong detergents, fabric softeners, or boosters like borax

Use Plant-Safe Soaps and Detergents

Many household soaps and detergents contain chemicals that can harm plants and soil health over time. Look for:

• Biodegradable, phosphate-free detergents
• Low-sodium soaps (to prevent soil damage)
• pH-neutral products (to avoid altering soil acidity)

Water Carefully and Rotate Regularly

Avoid applying greywater directly onto plant leaves, as this can create bacterial or fungal issues. Water at the roots and avoid splashing plants.

Research and horticultural observations, including trials by the RHS (Royal Horticultural Society), suggest that established shrubs and perennials can tolerate greywater irrigation for extended periods without harm to plant health. However, plant response varies, so monitoring soil and plant health is important.

Easy Ways to Get Started

You don’t need a full greywater system to begin reusing water in the garden. Small, consistent habits can make a meaningful difference.

• Collect the water that runs while waiting for the shower or kitchen sink to heat up.
• Strain water from cleaning tasks, such as mop buckets, provided only biodegradable cleaners were used.
• Reuse water from rinsing unprocessed vegetables or grains like potatoes and rice, where no chemicals or pesticides are involved.
• Pour the leftover water from your bottle or drinking glass onto your flowers rather than down the sink.

Wrapping Up

Greywater reuse doesn’t have to be complicated. Start small — a bucket under the shower, rinse water from the kitchen — and build from there as you get a feel for what works in your garden. Saving a few gallons a day adds up to hundreds or thousands of gallons a year that can be reused.

Most US states now provide greywater guidelines, and the UK’s RHS offers practical guidance for gardeners there. Check your local regulations before installing any dedicated system, but for simple collection and reuse, the barrier to entry is low.

Used thoughtfully, greywater turns an everyday waste stream into a garden resource, helping you conserve what’s precious.

Fortunately, there’s a simple, time-tested solution that’s making a comeback: ollas. Used for thousands of years, this low-tech method relies on unglazed terracotta pots buried in the soil to deliver water directly to plant roots.

By creating a steady, subsurface source of moisture, ollas help regulate soil conditions, reduce evaporation, and discourage weed growth. The result is healthier plants, less frequent watering, and a more resilient garden—no matter your climate.

How Ollas Work (and Where They Come From)

Ollas (from the Spanish word for “clay pot”) are a centuries-old irrigation technique. At its core, an olla is an unglazed clay vessel buried in the soil and filled with water. Because porous clay allows slow seepage, water is released gradually into the surrounding soil, moving toward drier areas where plant roots are actively drawing moisture. This process is self-regulating, releasing more water when the soil is dry, and less when it is wetter. Plant roots will also grow towards the olla over time as well.

Traditionally, ollas are handmade pots with narrow necks that extend above the soil surface, making them easy to refill without disturbing nearby plants. While these are still available today, they can be expensive or difficult to source.

Fortunately, a simple DIY version can be made using standard unglazed terracotta plant pots. When the drainage hole is sealed and the pot is buried, it functions on the same principle as traditional ollas.

Best Uses in the Garden

Ollas can be used throughout the garden, but they are most effective in situations where consistent, low-maintenance subsurface watering is valuable. At larger scales, or in highly irrigated systems, other methods become more practical.

Large container plants are ideal candidates for ollas. Pots are more exposed to temperature fluctuations, experience higher evaporation rates, and often dry out more quickly than in-ground soil. An olla helps stabilize moisture levels and reduces the need for frequent watering.

They are also particularly useful in difficult-to-access areas of the garden, such as slopes, embankments, rocky areas where other methods can’t be installed, or widely spaced plantings where regular surface watering is inconvenient. In these contexts, ollas are great passive water sources.

Native grasses and flowering plants that prefer steady but not excessive moisture also respond well to olla irrigation, especially in dry or exposed environments.

What to Grow with Ollas

Plants with deep, fibrous roots are perhaps the best suited for growing next to ollas. High-moisture vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and pumpkins will thrive when planted with ollas.

More shallow-rooted plants like salad crops and herbs can be grown with ollas; however, the shape of the olla is very important. If the bulk of the vessel is too deep, then surface watering will be needed until the roots grow deep enough

Root vegetables such as carrots and onions can be grown with ollas, but results may vary depending on spacing and soil conditions. Because the vessel occupies physical space in the root zone, it can sometimes restrict uniform root expansion, which may affect shape and size in tightly planted beds.

Ollas are less well-suited for woody plants and shrubs, as the roots of these plants can become very substantial over time, and the pressure created by them can crack the olla.

Making Your Own Olla

A standard unglazed terracotta plant pot can be converted into an effective DIY olla with very little modification.

You will need:

• Unglazed terracotta plant pots
• A lid or cover sized to fit the pot (a terracotta saucer, scrap wood, or any opaque cover that limits evaporation)
• A method to seal the drainage hole (such as a tile fragment and food-safe glue, or a purpose-made plug or bung)

Step 1: Plan your spacing

Before installation, decide how far apart your ollas will be placed, as this will determine how many you need. As a general rule, a single olla can water an area roughly twice its own diameter. For example, a 6-inch pot can irrigate a zone up to approximately 12 inches across in each direction. For a raised bed, a 6-8 inch pot can irrigate around a 3ft square area.

This is, however, only a guideline. The actual range will vary depending on soil type, compaction, temperature, and plant water demand. Sandy soils tend to spread moisture more widely but less deeply, while clay soils hold moisture more tightly around the vessel.

It is best to treat this as a starting point and adjust spacing through observation over time.

Step 2: Seal the base

Ensure the drainage hole at the base of the pot is fully sealed. For some pots, a penny is well-sized to fill the gap, which can then be covered with safe silicone glue. I glued a piece of tile for mine.

Step 3: Install the olla

Dig a hole deep enough so that the pot sits with its rim about 1/4-1/2 inch above the soil surface. This will prevent the pot from filling with dirt, while still making it easy to water.

Backfill soil firmly around the sides to ensure good contact between the olla and the surrounding ground. Fill the olla with water and place the lid on top.

As it can take some time for the water to fully soak the soil, fill your ollas a day or two before planting.

Step 4: Observe and adjust

Over time, observe how plants respond and how quickly the olla empties. This will help you refine spacing, refill frequency, and placement for your specific garden conditions. If you’re using a plant saucer as your lid, consider filling that with water to create a shallow watering station for pollinators.

Advantages of Ollas

• They maintain a consistent level of soil moisture below the surface, encouraging deep root growth and more resilient plants.
• They reduce the frequency of watering, making garden maintenance easier and more efficient.
• Very little water is lost to surface evaporation, improving overall water efficiency.
• They provide a built-in water reserve, which is especially useful if you’re away for a few days.
• They help buffer plants against environmental stress, such as heat and wind, by delivering steady moisture directly to the root zone.

Disadvantages of Ollas

• Minerals and salts can accumulate inside the olla over time, so occasional cleaning is needed to prevent buildup from affecting the surrounding soil.
• They occupy physical space in the garden, making them less practical in tightly planted or small growing areas.
• Newly planted seedlings and transplants typically require supplemental surface watering for 2–4 weeks until roots establish contact with the moisture zone.
• They must be refilled regularly, although this can be reduced with gravity-fed or drip-based refill systems.
• If you live in an area with heavy frosts, ollas need to be brought inside for the winter, otherwise they may crack.

Wrapping Up

Ollas are a simple but highly effective way to irrigate a garden. While they do have limitations, these are generally easy to work around, and the benefits are long-lasting and significant.

Whether you choose a DIY setup or a pre-made vessel, incorporating ollas into your garden can improve plant health, reduce water use, and create a more resilient growing environment.

The Ocotillo family is small, with just 11 species, and Fouquieria splendens is the most widely recognized. They are native to North and Central America, with a distant sister family in Madagascar. Interestingly, ocotillo is more closely related to blueberries than to cactus. The flowers are also edible and can be used to make a tisane.

In this article, we’ll cover how to propagate ocotillo successfully. Although not a cactus, it shares many of the same propagation needs and fits well here.

Choosing an Ocotillo to Propagate

Spring is the best season to propagate ocotillo. Once the risk of frost has passed, look for a healthy plant with long, vigorous canes that bloomed and leafed frequently the previous year. 

The ideal length of a cane is around 3-5ft long, and a cane can be cut as a section of a longer cane; the main plant will regrow. Cuttings should be taken from younger, more supple growth, which is typically a little thicker than a pencil, and can look more purple in color. If the cane is quite bendy or supple, it should root well.

Thinner, younger canes are easier to cut, will heal quicker, and are less woody, so have more adaptive cell tissue.

Taking a Cutting

Removing a section of ocotillo is very simple.

You will need:

• Thick gloves
• Sterilized cutting tools - a garden knife and garden loppers
• A bucket to carry the canes in

After you’ve found a good cane to cut, it’s important to evaluate how thick it is. A clean cut is essential to prevent damage to the parent plant and help the cutting to remain healthy. 

Canes that are even a little too thick or woody, but still suitable for propagation, can be crushed by loppers, so a garden knife may be more suitable for some plants. 

Plants should be cut at a shallow angle to prevent water pooling on the main plant and increase the rooting surface area of the cutting. Take care not to go too steeply, as this creates a wound that is too big and is more likely to rot. 

Before cutting, mark which side of the cane faces south, or south-west. Tying a piece of string around one of the large thorns is an easy way. Desert plants form thicker, more sun-adapted tissue on these sides, and this will help the plant root more successfully by minimizing stress. 

Once cut, place the cutting in the bucket, which makes them much easier to carry, as the thorns can be very sharp.

Preparing the Cutting

Ocotillo stems need to dry out and form a callus before being planted, just as many other desert plants do. 

Store the canes horizontally in a semi-shaded, well-ventilated location. Ocotillo calluses very quickly, and you may find it happens in as little as 2-3 days. 

Canes can then be prepared for planting by dusting the bottoms with rooting hormones or sulfur powder. As well as encouraging the plant to root, this also helps to keep the cane base dry as it roots out.

Preparing the Ground

Ocotillos prefer sandy, slightly loamy soil. As the canes will be very unstable when planted, you may find it beneficial to amend the planting area with small stones or a small amount of gravel to provide some stability and weight at the base. 

Dig a hole that is approximately 4-6 inches deep, and complete any necessary soil amendments. The hole should be approximately 4-6 inches wide as well to help with water infiltration.

Place the cane in the hole, and gently backfill, compressing the soil with your foot to create slightly compacted layers. Amend the top surface with a few larger rocks close to the cane to stabilize the cane against wind or animal disturbance. Once the cane is stable, avoid watering the soil directly for the first few weeks.

Remember to orient the cane in the correct direction. The cane will likely survive even if you don’t do this, but for more extreme weather years, this will really benefit the plant. 

Caring For Your Ocotillo

Ocotillo does not like wet roots. Ocotillo also takes up much of its water through its stems, and is very receptive to humidity, having the ability to open and contract its stems to expose more surface area for photosynthesis and water intake.

Most of the watering for your ocotillo canes should be done through a misting of the stems. A deep watering once a month before the monsoon rains come will stimulate root growth, but misting is most effective, as the cane will not have many roots, if any at all, for the first few months. 

Ocotillo can take anywhere from 3-24 months to root. They are very resilient plants, and a little fussy about environmental conditions. You can check if your ocotillo canes are still alive through the following methods. 

1. Check for visible green on the stems. You may have to look closely, but millimeter ribbons of green are often all that can be seen on dormant plants.
2. Scratch the stem and look for green beneath the stem. In very dormant cases, plants will close up. 
3. Check how flexible the stem feels. Dead stems will be very brittle and will snap. Canes that are still alive will bend, even if only a little, and won’t snap easily.

Propagating From Seeds

Seeds can be collected from your own plants or purchased from reputable sellers online. These seeds are easy to germinate, and can provide transplantable ocotillo within 2 years. 

1. Prepare a well-draining, sandy potting mix in a small to medium container. 
2. Plant the seeds at a depth of around 1 inch, and dampen the soil all the way to the bottom. 
3. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate and sprout above the surface. 
4. Provide intense sunlight, as a lack of, or limited, sunlight will cause seedlings to become heavy with leaves and break. Later afternoon shade will help young plants. I keep my seedlings on a northeast-facing patio.
5. Ocotillo will eventually grow a deep taproot, so a container that is at least 6 inches deep is good. 
6. Water seedlings weekly to encourage healthy growth.

Once the seedling is around 2-4 inches tall and is leafing out regularly, you can transplant it to the final location. Water the plant weekly for the first couple of months, and then reduce the watering schedule, eventually leaving irrigation to natural rainfall. 

Watering once a month in the heat of the summer is helpful for the first two years. 

Wrapping Up

Ocotillo is a delightful plant. They are wonderfully unique, have beautiful flowers, an interesting growth pattern, and a structure that is elegant and dramatic. Ocotillo will flower and leaf regularly once they are well established, which could take multiple years. However, they are an incredibly low-maintenance, keystone plant that will hold a place of pride in your garden and benefit all kinds of wildlife.

In this article, we’ll go through 7 reasons why you might consider adding grasses to your garden, from them being an essential part of a functional habitat, to a way to add practicality, while still being wonderfully aesthetic.

1. Wildlife Habitat and Biodiversity

Grasses are a keystone species in many ecosystems. By adding them to your garden, you create habitat for hundreds of bugs, insects, and bees. Having more pollinators and foundational insects will help your garden thrive as they pollinate, break down organic matter, and provide food to other beneficial insects and animals.

A bonus is that this will, in turn, attract more birds to your garden, which will help with pest control for your fruit and vegetables.

Switchgrasses, bluestem, and needlegrass are excellent choices, providing color, habitat, seeds for birds, and places for insects to overwinter - something that is often overlooked in gardens.

2. Drought Tolerance and Water Conservation

If you’re looking to reduce your garden water usage, which may be a necessity if you’re gardening in a drier area, choosing grasses with deep, fibrous roots is a smart choice. Once established, many ornamental grasses are water-wise and thrive in poor soils. Their deep root systems allow them to withstand long, hot, dry periods, reducing the need for irrigation. Additionally, by planting them strategically, you can shelter your garden beds from the wind and the sun, reducing water evaporation and creating more mild microclimates.

Muhly grasses are great for this kind of planting, being exceptionally drought-tolerant, while still full of color (my favorite is pink muhly). Grasses also pair very well with xeric landscaping, making them key choices for deserts and gravel gardens.

3. Soil Improvement

Many grasses are seasonal and will die or go dormant for part of the year. Because they need to be cut down to the ground during this time, you acquire nutrient-rich mulch and soil conditioner as a result. Grass is also an excellent frost protection blanket for more delicate annuals to overwinter under, and as it decays in the spring, it will feed the upcoming plants. 

Switchgrass, Indian grass, and cordgrass, along with larger grasses like big bluestem, will give you a lot of organic material for the space they occupy, and may provide all of the winter mulch you need for your garden. 

4. Practical Uses

Some grasses are edible, and some produce useful oils. Lemongrass is an easy-to-grow culinary herb, and citronella has helpful oils that can be used in soap making. Common grains such as rice, corn, and wheat are also grasses, and growing a few stalks can be a fun experiment. They can also provide good food for animals if you don’t want to eat it yourself.

Corn is a very easy grass to grow, and the kernels are great for a tasty snack. Many native heirloom varieties are drought-tolerant and low-maintenance.

5. Movement and Seasonal Interest

Grasses are generally very light, and the slightest gusts of wind can make them sway beautifully. They offer visual appeal through various textures and colors, with many varieties providing vibrant color in the fall and structure during winter, which is an excellent way to have a vibrant garden year-round. 

Grasses can help a patio feel more lively, a front porch feel more welcoming, and a herb garden feel more full during the winter months. Grasses also help to soften hardscaping. Molinia, feather grasses, and reeds are excellent considerations here. 

6. Low-maintenance and Variety

Ornamental grasses are generally pest-resistant, disease-free, and require little fertilization. Most only need a single cutting back once a year. They last a long time, and grow deep, healthy roots that can tolerate very poor soils. 

If you’re often busy, grasses are an excellent way to maintain a lively garden with very little work. There are grasses for every type of location - tall ornamental grasses to shade a patio or provide privacy, bushy grasses to fill out a landscape, and small groundcovers to help suppress weeds and create wildlife habitat.

Grasses are also well-suited to pots and containers, which can be very beneficial for grasses like bamboo, which are aggressive spreaders. Grasses can reliably be grown from seed and mature quickly, so if your local garden center doesn’t have many to choose from, you can grow one of the many thousands of varieties.

7. Erosion Control and Soil Stability

Grasses are often pioneer species that move in first to a location. Many grasses are perfect to help you stop erosion on a steep slope, to provide stability while other plants take root. Creeping fescues and prairie grasses are well-suited and can also help wildflowers become established by providing shade and capturing morning dew on their broad leaves. 

A Bonus Reason

They Work Everywhere

Grasses fit into every style of garden: cottage, modern, prairie, xeric, and woodland. They’re equally at home in borders, containers, pathways, and mass plantings. Designers love them because they make everything around them look better — they frame spaces, soften hard edges, and add cohesion without feeling heavy. You can tuck them into courtyards, patios, garden beds, ponds, and even narrow side yards where nothing else seems to work.

There’s truly a place for every grass, and a grass for every place — whether you need height, softness, movement, color, or simply a plant that makes the whole space feel more intentional.

Wrapping Up

Grasses are wonderfully versatile and fantastically beautiful. Because they can fit a wide range of conditions, they’re an excellent choice for any garden, no matter the shape or size. From culinary grasses to low groundcovers to tall ornamentals, there’s a grass for you if you go looking. Whether you’re after movement, wildlife habitat, drought tolerance, or simply a plant that asks for very little, grasses deliver.

Start with one or two varieties that suit your space, and you’ll quickly see how transformative they can be. Once you begin gardening with grasses, it’s hard to imagine a garden without them.

Columnar cacti are relatively simple to propagate, though the method can vary. In part 3 of this series, we’ll cover the ways to increase the number of columns in your garden and care for the parent plant after you’ve taken a cutting.

Taking a Cutting

The most effective method for most columnar cacti is to take a stem cutting. A cutting between 6 and 12 inches tall is ideal, although on smaller varieties, 2-3 inches is plenty. Taller cuttings can work, but they take longer to establish and are more prone to tipping due to their weight.

Things You’ll Need:

• A healthy parent plant
• A sharp garden knife
• 80% alcohol or another sterilizing agent
• Thick gloves and long sleeves
• Rooting hormone powder (optional)
• Well‑draining potting mix

The best time to take a columnar cactus cutting is in late spring or early summer, when the plant is healthy after the winter rains, but the temperature is not yet too hot. This balances the conditions and maximizes the chance of plant survival.

Choosing and Taking a Healthy Cutting

First, select a healthy parent plant with robust color and good growth that is not wrinkled or dry. Look for a segment that is at least 6-8 inches long and has plenty of areoles (the raised nodes along the stem), as these will produce most of the roots. You can take the cutting from the main growing stem or one of the offset shoots. 

Using your clean, sterile knife, cut the cactus just below an areole at a 45-degree angle, taking care not to nick other parts of the cactus. If the column has a ‘joint’, this is an excellent place to make the cut, and we’ll explain a little more on this later. 

Adjustments For Cacti With Joints

Some columnar cacti form joints, either along their main stems (these will be slightly constricted lines with hard tissue growth) or through arms, like myrtillocactus geometrizans. If your plant has these joints, these are excellent places to cut. The plant will root more readily from these areas as the tissue is denser, and the cut site will be smaller, allowing the plant to heal more quickly. 

Follow all the steps listed here, but note that drying and rooting will likely be faster.

Callus Your Cutting

After taking your cutting, let the wound dry and callus fully before planting. Columnar cacti may take 2-4 weeks or more to fully dry because the cut surface is larger and holds more moisture.

Place the cutting in a bright, airy spot out of direct sun and protected from rain. Good airflow speeds drying and reduces the chance of fungal issues. Rotate the cutting every few days to discourage aerial roots, which often form when one side stays shaded or pressed against a surface.

A fully callused cutting will have a firm, dry, corky surface with no remaining moisture. Once it reaches this stage, it’s ready to plant.

Rooting the Cutting

Plant your cutting in a well-draining potting mix. Keep the amount of organic matter low to reduce the chance of rot; I’ve found that incorporating some rocky soil from the garden works very well. Stake your cactus with canes if needed; you want it to stay steady while it roots.

Your cutting will likely shrivel in the weeks after you plant it, but resist the temptation to water it until it roots (around 3-4 weeks). The cacti will lose some water in the rooting process, but a well-sized cutting will have plenty of reserves and will fill out again after it roots.

Looking For Roots

My favorite test for roots with columnar cacti is to gently lift the cactus and see if the pot lifts with it. Lifting it just a quarter inch off the ground is enough. You can also look for a more vibrant coloring at the tip, or if there are any offsets from the areoles; this means the plant has rooted and is beginning to grow again.

Watering and Transplanting

Once roots emerge, water lightly and allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. As it becomes more established, start soaking the soil more deeply and more infrequently. The aim is to adapt it to dry conditions. 

Once the plant has well-established roots, is a robust, healthy color, and is putting out new growth, it’s ready to be transplanted to the final location. This usually takes a few months. 

After transplanting, water thoroughly, and then water once a week for 4-6 weeks to encourage root spreading. During the first couple of years, you may need to water it once a month during the dry spells, but it should become independent quite quickly; just keep an eye on it. 

Caring for the Parent Plant

The parent plant now has an exposed wound. The 45-degree angle of the cut, or cut at the joint, will minimize damage, but there are some steps you can take to speed up recovery.

• Additional watering - a good soak every 1-2 weeks will help the plant scab over the site. 
• Shade - bird netting will provide a 10% shade increase, which can reduce sun scorch.
• A small amount of cactus and succulent fertilizer during the late spring can renew vigor in the plant.
• Watch for pests, particularly cactus borer, that may take advantage of the soft tissue.

The parent plant will likely produce multiple offsets from the cut site that will grow from the surrounding areoles. Choosing an offset to begin with means you can retain a healthy main stem, with new growth that starts closer to the ground and is easier to manage.

Wrapping Up

With a clean cut, a full callus, and a gritty soil mix, most columnar species root reliably. The process takes time, but each stage is simple, and the plants are far more resilient than they appear. Given a few months of careful attention and the right conditions, your cutting will establish itself and begin the slow climb toward maturity, soon becoming a wonderful garden addition.

Agaves are incredibly resilient plants and a staple in desert and xeriscape gardens. Their thick leaves, fibrous roots, and carbohydrate‑rich cores allow detached pups and bulbils to survive long periods with minimal water while they establish new roots.

In this article, we’ll dive into propagation techniques and methods for growing agave. Let’s dive in.

The Primary Propagation Methods

There are three main methods for agave propagation, and each comes at a different stage of an agave’s life cycle. 

Pups

This is the easiest and most accessible method, as most agave species produce pups regularly. Agave americana, for example, will produce a handful of pups every year if the conditions are right and the plant is mature enough – usually after 3-4 years. Some agaves are solitary, however, such as A. ovatifolia, which won’t produce pups until they flower.

Choosing a Good Pup

A few cues help you pick the strongest candidates:

• Leaves should be plump and unblemished, with no soft spots or signs of rot.
• The pup should have a clear, well‑formed center—tiny, tight leaves emerging from the middle.
• A size between 3–8 inches roots most reliably: large enough to have stored energy, small enough to handle easily.

Avoid pups that are yellowing, shriveled, or growing in deep shade under the parent—they often struggle to establish.

Tools you’ll need

• A small garden trowel
• A sharp, sterilized knife, pruning saw, or pruning shears
• Thick gloves (agave can be spiky!)
• A pot filled with fast‑draining sandy cactus mix

Steps:

Use the trowel to gently excavate around the pup until you can see where it connects to the mother plant, keeping as many roots intact as possible. Not all pups will have roots, and that’s okay.

Removing the Pup

If the pup is attached by a fleshy tuber or rhizome, cut it as close to the mother plant as you can. Avoid ripping or twisting as the flesh is delicate. Loosen the surrounding soil and lift the pup from the base, keeping any attached roots intact.

Callusing

Set the pup in bright, indirect light for one to three days. The cut end should dry into a firm, matte, corky surface. If the pup has no tuber, only roots, you can plant it immediately, either in a pot or in the ground.

Planting

Place the pup so the base sits on the soil surface. Agaves are prone to rotting at the rosette base, so bury only the roots and tubers.

Early Watering

Water until the soil is damp, then let it dry completely. After that, water sparingly but regularly to encourage new root growth—once a week is a good guide.

Transplanting

When the pup has firm roots and a rich, even color, it’s ready for the ground or a larger pot. Acclimate it to full sun before planting. Water every two weeks for 1-2 months, then let natural rainfall take over. Some agave root in a matter of weeks, while others take a few months.

Bulbils

Bulbils are the second major way to propagate agave. When a mature plant sends up its towering flower stalk, some species produce hundreds of tiny plantlets along the spent bloom stems. 

Not every agave makes bulbils. Species such as Agave americana and A. vivipara are very reliable producers, while others, such as Agave shawii, do not produce any at all.

Harvesting and Rooting Bulbils

Bulbils root easily and with a high success rate. By late summer, as the stalk dries, they typically reach 2–3 inches tall and develop a pale, slightly white base. A gentle tug should detach them; if they resist or feel soft, give them more time.

Tools you’ll need

• Thick gloves (agave can be spiky!)
• Pots of seedling trays with fast-draining cactus soil

Steps:

With your hands, detach the bulbil with a gentle tug. Avoid tearing the base—this is where new roots will emerge.

Callusing

Allow 1-5 days of callusing. Once the base has turned white and looks a little corky, they’re ready to plant.

Planting

Set the bulbil on top of a gritty cactus mix and nestle it slightly into the surface. A coarse, fast‑draining blend prevents moisture from lingering around the base. Pebbles are good for support.

Early Watering

Keep the soil barely moist. Light misting every few days is usually enough until roots form.

Increasing Water

When the bulbil resists a gentle tug or begins producing new leaves, shift to deeper but infrequent watering—about once a week.

Transplanting

When the bulbil has firm roots and a rich, even color, it’s ready for the ground or a larger pot. Acclimate it to full sun before planting. Water every two weeks for 1-2 months, then let natural rainfall take over. Some agave root in a matter of weeks, while others take a few months.

Seed Propagation

Seed propagation is the slowest but most genetically diverse way to grow agave. While pups and bulbils produce clones, seeds introduce variation that strengthens long‑term resilience. Agave seeds are short‑lived, so fresher seed almost always germinates better than older seed.

Seeds develop in pods along the main flowering stalk. Each pod contains dozens of seeds and is ready to harvest when it turns brown and begins to split. Because the stalk can be quite tall, you may need a ladder to safely collect a few mature pods.

Once you’ve collected the pods, the seeds need a short drying period to ensure they store well and germinate cleanly. Fresh pods often hold a bit of residual moisture, and drying helps prevent mold.

• Spread the seeds in a single layer on a paper towel or a clean tray.
• Let them air‑dry for 3–7 days in a warm, shaded spot with good airflow.
• Once fully dry, the seeds should feel firm and papery, not flexible or tacky.

Sowing Agave Seed

Warmth, light, and a gritty, sterile medium are the three pillars of successful germination. Agave seedlings are surprisingly easy to grow when these conditions are met.

Planting in late spring is best. Warm soil (70–85°F) speeds germination and reduces the risk of fungi.

Tools you’ll need

• A shallow tray or small pots
• Sterile, fast‑draining seed mix (cactus mix with added pumice or sand)
• A spray bottle
• A humidity dome or clear cover (optional but helpful)

Steps

Prepare the soil.  

Fill your tray or pots with a gritty, sterile mix.

Sow the seeds.  

Press the seeds gently into the surface. They need light to germinate, so keep them only lightly covered.

Moisten and cover.  

Mist the soil until damp, then cover the tray with a humidity dome. Keep the mix lightly moist—not wet—and vent daily to prevent fungal growth.

Provide bright, indirect light.  

Most seeds germinate within 7–21 days under warm, bright conditions.

Care for seedlings.  

Once sprouted, water from the bottom to avoid disturbing the roots and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Transplant when sturdy.  

When seedlings have several true leaves and a small root system, move them into individual pots filled with gritty cactus mix. Water them deeply and infrequently, watching for signs of over- and under-watering.

Watch and wait. 

After 1–2 years of steady growth and proper acclimation, young agaves are ready for transplanting into the garden in spring. Acclimate young starts in the same way you would pups or bulbils in early-mid spring.

Wrapping Up

Propagating agave is immensely satisfying. They root well, adapt to their environment quickly, and support a wide range of animal and insect species. Their drought tolerance and range of shapes and colors make them an attractive addition to any garden, and their life cycle means you may never have to buy another agave plant ever again.

Clever Adaptations

Paddle cacti grow in distinct segments that are designed to detach. Each pad is a self‑contained reservoir of water and stored energy, and the joint between pads is a natural break point. Detached pads seal their wounds quickly, resist rot when kept dry, and send out roots with very little encouragement.

Paddle cacti are best propagated in mid-spring when the chance of frost is well past, and the plants have taken in the winter rains, although any season but winter will work with some adaptations.

Choosing a Good Pad

When you’re selecting a pad to propagate, start by looking at the whole plant’s health. A good parent plant will have plenty of mature, thick pads with strong color and clean surfaces. Pads with wrinkles, soft spots, scabs, or signs of past wounds are less suitable.

Age matters too. A pad that’s at least a year old has already adapted to the local climate and built up enough stored energy to support new root growth. Very young pads are still thin and tender, while very old pads can be woody or oversized.

Size is the most reliable factor in choosing a pad. Larger pads can root, but they take longer to settle and are more likely to topple or stay unstable in the soil. In practice, pads between three and eight inches tend to root the most reliably as they are well-sized and not too old.

Removing the Pad

Pads should be carefully removed at the woody join. I have found it easiest to use a clean, sharp garden knife or shears to make a clean cut.

Because paddle cacti have both large spines and much smaller, often near-invisible glochids, take extra care when handling pads. Smooth-ended barbecue tongs are my tool of choice, although many gardeners will also use newspaper or old carpet to carry them. 

Prepping the Pad for Potting

Once removed, every pad needs time to callus. This drying period reduces the risk of rot by sealing the wound into a firm, white, corky surface. Depending on humidity and pad thickness, this can take anywhere from three days to two weeks. A fully callused end looks matte and chalky, with no lingering moisture.

When the pad is ready, plant it in a fast‑draining mix. A gritty soil keeps excess moisture away from the wound and encourages roots to reach downward. A 50/50 blend of sandy native soil and commercial cactus mix works well in my experience because it both feeds the plant and acclimates it to the conditions it will eventually grow in. The pad should sit upright or slightly angled. You may need stakes to support taller pads.

Watering and Early Root Development

Once a pad is planted, the most important thing you can do is not water it. A freshly callused pad contains enough stored moisture to sustain itself for weeks. If the mix stays damp, the pad is less likely to root and is far more likely to rot from the base upward.

For the first two to three weeks, simply leave the pad in bright, indirect light and let the soil remain completely dry. Warmth speeds things along, so a spot that stays above 70°F during the day is ideal. 

After a few weeks, you can test for early rooting by gently pulling on the pad. A pad that has begun to root will feel slightly anchored, as if it’s gripping the soil. If it lifts easily, set it back and give it more time. Once you feel that first bit of resistance, you can begin watering lightly—just enough to moisten the top inch of soil. Then let it dry out completely again before the next watering.

Rooting speed varies by species, temperature, and pad size. Smaller pads often root within two to four weeks, while larger ones may take six or more. The first visible sign of success is usually swelling and deepening color at the top of the pad, followed by the emergence of a new segment. When that new growth appears, you can be confident the plant has established a functioning root system.

In-Ground Planting

When the pad has rooted, acclimate the cactus to the conditions of its final planting location over the course of a week or so, and then plant as you would any other plant. 

A moderate soak once a month for the first 3-6 months will help the cactus naturalize itself to the rainfall in your area, and from then on it should be plain sailing!

Problems to Watch For

Even with good pads and proper soil, a few issues can show up during propagation. These quick cues help you spot trouble early.

• Rot at the base — Softness, darkening, or a sour smell usually means moisture reached the cut too soon. Many pads will survive this, so all is not lost.
• Shriveling — Light wrinkling is normal as the pad uses stored moisture. Deep folds or a limp feel suggest it’s losing water too quickly, often from heat or too much sun.
• Sunburn — Pale, yellow, or bleached patches indicate the pad is getting more sun than it can handle before rooting. Move it to partial shade until new growth appears.
• Instability — Pads that lean or fall over typically haven’t rooted yet or are simply top‑heavy. A small stake helps keep them upright without burying them deeper.
• Slow or no rooting — If there’s no anchoring after several weeks, the cut may not have fully callused, the soil may be too rich, or temperatures may be too cool. Keep it in good condition and keep waiting - it can take months to root sometimes.

Wrapping Up

Working with paddle cacti is incredibly rewarding. After just a couple of years of propagating you can have many more thriving plants, each producing fruit and flowers for you and wildlife to enjoy.

Check out the other articles in this series to learn how to propagate other cactus types.

In Part 3 of this series, we’ll explore practical tips, design ideas, and simple strategies for creating your own moon garden.

Choosing a Location

A moon garden is best placed where moonlight naturally falls, ideally in a spot shielded from strong artificial lights. Low, shielded lights are generally fine, though you can always plan to switch nearby lights off late at night.

Pay attention to wind and microclimate. Light evening breezes will help fragrance travel, but too much wind can disrupt pollinators. Sheltered spots will hold scent “pockets” and stay slightly warmer after dark, extending nighttime activity for moths, beetles, and fireflies.

Consider also how you plan to experience the garden. Create it where it is accessible to you. Even small courtyards, balconies, or narrow side yards can work as miniature moon gardens, especially when enhanced with pots and trellises.

No matter the size, prioritize a layout that’s easy to move through safely after dark. Curved paths, low lighting, and clearly defined borders help create a space that feels safe, inviting, and richly atmospheric for both you and the nocturnal wildlife you’re welcoming in.

Choosing Plants

In Part 2, we explored many excellent night-friendly species, but nearly any flowering plant can contribute to a moon garden. Pale colors—especially whites, silvers, soft yellows, and light pinks—stand out beautifully under moonlight, while fragrant varieties draw nocturnal visitors from surprising distances. When planning your plant palette, a few principles can help you create a cohesive, high-impact display:

Group plants with similar scents. Fragrance layers beautifully when related notes are placed together—sweet florals with florals, herbal scents with herbal scents, spicy with spicy. This prevents muddled or overpowering combinations for you and makes it easier for moths and beetles to follow consistent scent trails.

Group plants by similar colors or textures. Because moonlight is dim and cool-toned, subtle differences in shade become exaggerated. A dull white blossom can appear grey or dingy next to a glossy, reflective bloom. Keeping color groups consistent—pale yellows with yellows, silvery foliage with silvery foliage—creates harmony and maximizes nighttime glow.

Build a layered structure. A successful moon garden has vertical and horizontal depth. Trees can form the overstory and offer shelter; shrubs provide nesting space and help shield the area from stray light; perennials and groundcovers fill in the understory. Dense plantings, with sheltered gaps spaced throughout, create pockets of warmth and refuge where nighttime insects feel safe to feed and court.

Think seasonally. Many moon gardens peak in summer, but extending bloom time transforms the space into a nighttime refuge from early spring through late fall. Choose early bloomers (such as hellebores or native spring ephemerals) to support the first waking pollinators in February and March, and late-season options (like asters, goldenrod, or autumn-blooming anemones) to keep activity high into October and November.

Building an Ecosystem

Even a single pot of flowers can draw nighttime visitors—my own small bed of vinca, not a particularly famous night plant, still attracts dozens of moths at dusk. But to support more species, and to transform your moon garden from a simple planting into a functional nocturnal habitat, a few additional elements make a tremendous difference:

Provide water. A shallow dish, birdbath, or gently sloped basin with stones to create shallow areas provides moths, beetles, and other night-foraging insects with a reliable place to drink. Moving water is even better, as the sound and humidity help guide insects after dark, so you could go for a pond or fountain project if you have the time.

Leave leaf litter where possible. Leaf litter is one of the most important resources for nocturnal insects. Fireflies use it for breeding, many moths pupate within it, and countless beetles shelter there during the day. A small, quiet corner where leaves can collect undisturbed adds enormous habitat value.

Incorporate dead wood. Rotting logs, hollow stems, and small twig piles serve as nesting sites, hunting grounds, and moisture reservoirs for nocturnal species. Beetles lay eggs in decaying wood, solitary bees nest in pithy stems, and many fungi and microfauna that support the ecosystem flourish there.

Avoid pesticides and herbicides. Even “mild” or organic formulations can harm caterpillars, beetles, and fireflies. Reducing or eliminating chemical use—especially in the moon-garden area—ensures that the nighttime visitors you attract can safely feed, breed, and complete their life cycles.

A Few Design Ideas

Here are some ideas to guide your own moon garden design.

Dappled Colors Anchor the garden with a small tree such as a dwarf birch at the point farthest from where moonlight enters. Surround its base with mossy groundcover and airy ornamental grasses further out to create pockets of gentle movement.

On the moon-facing side, plant a tiered bed of white and soft pink flowers. Place glossy-leaved, reflective plants in the lower layers and taller, softer-toned plants behind to create a subtle gradient. Add a trellis at the back for a climbing vine. In a small clearing, use a terracotta saucer as a water basin, edged with mossy stones, and place a bench beneath the birch with two low, shielded solar lights for soft illumination.

The mix of reflective foliage and soft, layered textures creates depth under low light, allowing moonbeams to catch on leaves and blooms so the garden appears to shimmer gently after dark.

Mini Paradise Ideal for patios or small spaces. Arrange three large pots in an L-shape and two smaller pots in front for depth. In one large pot, build a garden-cane pyramid with a pale-flowered or silver-foliage vine, underplanted with glossy, fragrant herbs and small flowers.

Fill the smaller pots with dwarf shrubs and frame them with trailing plants or groundcovers. Plant white and purple blooms in the remaining large pots, reserving space in one for a medium ornamental grass and a small solar fountain. Outline the arrangement with low mini-solar lights and add a small bistro table and chairs for a compact, fragrant, and inviting corner.

This mix of pots will retain heat well in their cluster and create a dense, vibrant pollinator paradise.

Wild Wonderland For larger gardens, choose a canopy tree with one or two understory trees and fill spaces with bunch grasses, shrubs, and mossy pockets. Create gentle rises and dips, a small pond with partial afternoon shade, and plant marsh-loving species and flowers around it.

Mulch heavily and leave some dead wood in semi-open spaces for insects and other nocturnal wildlife. Install a bird box once trees mature, space small solar lights a few feet apart, and place a bench in a suitable place so you can comfortably enjoy the garden.

Wrapping Up

Designing a moon garden is all about having fun and supporting nature simultaneously. By following good principles, you can create a vibrant, easy-to-maintain space. With thoughtful plant choices, layered habitats, and a little nighttime magic, your moon garden can become a haven for pollinators and a quiet retreat for you, lighting up both the garden and your evenings.

Planting a few night-focused species can act as “anchors,” drawing moths, beetles, bats, and other nocturnal visitors across your garden. In Part 2 of this series, we’ll explore the traits that make plants attractive at night and highlight several excellent species to help you start or expand your after-dark garden.

What Makes a Plant Vibrant After Dark

Two traits matter most at night: fragrance and reflective color.

Moonlight is cooler and dimmer than sunlight, so many bright daytime colors—reds, oranges, strong blues—appear muted or nearly invisible after dusk. Whites, silvers, pale yellows, greys, and leaves with waxy or glossy surfaces reflect even faint light, helping nocturnal pollinators locate them.

Plants that rely on scent often take the opposite approach: richly colored daytime blooms (pinks, purples, reds) dramatically increase fragrance at night to guide pollinators to nectar.

A resilient night garden typically includes both types.

Choosing Plants

Native plants are always an excellent starting point, but many non-invasive ornamentals also thrive in night gardens. When selecting species, aim for:

• A bloom sequence across the seasons, including key migration periods
• A mix of colors and scents for different nocturnal pollinators
• Layers of structure—shrubs, small trees, flowers, grasses—for food and habitat

Diverse plantings increase nighttime visitation and also support diurnal pollinators, creating a garden that’s active around the clock. Local gardening groups, university extensions, and regional books will have detailed information on the nighttime pollinators in your area.

Keystone Host Plants

These species support huge numbers of insects—caterpillars, beetles, fireflies, and leaf-feeding larvae that fuel the entire nocturnal food chain. They also contribute structural habitat for bats and nighttime foragers.

Oaks (Quercus spp.)

Oaks are among the most important plants in any wildlife garden, supporting hundreds of caterpillar species, including many large-bodied moths that bats rely on. Their deep leaf litter provides breeding habitat for fireflies and shelter for beetles. 

Birches (Betula spp.)

Birches play a similar role to oaks, though they attract different species of moth larvae. They grow more quickly and are smaller trees, so they are suitable for smaller gardens. Their pale bark is also quite visible in moonlight.

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)

Goldenrod is a powerhouse for late-season nectar and supports more insect species than almost any other perennial; it attracts over 100 species of moth alone! After flowering, the stems and leaf bases serve as hunting grounds for firefly larvae and as overwintering habitats for beneficial insects.

Yucca (Yucca filamentosa and regional natives)

Yucca plants have a famous mutualistic relationship with yucca moths, which pollinate the flowers exclusively. At night, their white, bell-shaped blooms become highly visible, even in low light, and release more fragrance as temperatures cool. Yuccas also offer dense basal structure for beetles and firefly larvae.

Night-Blooming or Night-Perfuming Nectar Plants

These plants attract nocturnal visitors by producing scent or nectar after dusk. They’re excellent for drawing moths, beetles, and night-flying insects into the garden.

Night-Blooming Cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum and related species)

Perhaps the most dramatic of all night bloomers, night-blooming cereus opens enormous white flowers for only a few hours—typically once a year—but the fragrance is powerful and highly attractive to large moths and nectar-feeding beetles. 

Night Phlox (Zaluzianskya capensis)

This small annual is ideal for patios or walkways because its fragrance intensifies at dusk, releasing a sweet vanilla–honey aroma. It performs well in containers and fills gaps in bloom schedules.

Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis or native species)

Evening primrose opens its blooms rapidly at dusk—sometimes in under a minute—providing an immediate nectar source for sphinx moths, nocturnal bees, and various beetles. The bright yellow flowers remain visible in low light. Later in the season, the seed heads feed finches and night-foraging small mammals.

Four O’Clocks (Mirabilis jalapa and native Mirabilis spp.)

These flowers open in late afternoon and continue releasing fragrance into the night. Their tubular blooms cater to moths and long-tongued beetles, while the plants tolerate heat, drought, and poor soils. A good option for gardeners in warmer climates who want consistent nighttime fragrance.

Additional Night-Garden All-Stars

These plants enhance nighttime visibility, contribute shelter, or create ecological cues that nocturnal pollinators use for navigation.

Silver Artemisia (Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’, A. ludoviciana, and native options)

Artemisia species have silvery, reflective foliage that is excellent for attracting pollinators. Their aromatic leaves deter herbivores during the day but offer excellent cover for beetles and ground-dwelling nocturnal wildlife.

Anemones (Anemone × hybrida, A. hupehensis, and native varieties)

Often white or pink, these beautiful flowers thrive in dappled light. Their upright stems and pale colors are highly visible in moonlight, helping nocturnal insects navigate the garden.

Angel’s Trumpet (Brugmansia or Datura species)

These dramatic, downward-facing blooms release their strongest perfume after dusk, attracting large moths in particular. While the plants are toxic and aggressive growers, and should be handled with care, their nighttime impact is unparalleled. 

Clematis (Such as Clematis ligusticifolia or C. virginiana)

Clematis vines produce masses of small, white, sweetly scented flowers that stay open through the night. These blooms are highly visible and useful for guiding insects along trellises or fences. 

Grasses for Night Gardens

While grasses don’t provide nectar, they are essential to nocturnal garden ecology. Many moth species depend on grasses as larval host plants, and the upright blades create vertical “perches” for fireflies during courtship displays. Dense clumps also offer shelter for beetles, crickets, and other nighttime foragers.

Warm-Season Prairie Grasses

(Examples include little bluestem, side-oats grama, and switchgrass.)\

These often form airy clumps and produce tall, reflective seedheads. Little bluestem in particular often takes on silvery-blue or copper hues that are luminous at night. Numerous skipper and noctuid moth caterpillars adore these grasses, and they provide shelter for beetles and crickets, too. Their structure stays upright through winter, extending the habitat well beyond the growing season.

Cool-Season Grasses

(Examples include fescues, Junegrass, and wild ryes.)

Cool-season grasses start growing earlier in spring and offer early-season forage for larvae when flowers are scarce. Wild ryes add height and gentle movement even in partial shade, making them useful near trees or along north-facing borders.

Muhly Grasses

(Best known: pink muhly, gulf muhly, and bamboo muhly.)

Muhly grasses form soft, fountain-like clumps with airy, cloudlike plumes. At night, these plumes often shimmer, giving them a distinctive presence. While they are not major host plants, they are excellent shelter species for fireflies, ground beetles, and other nocturnal insects that move through their dense bases. 

Wrapping Up

Many principles for planning a nighttime garden are similar to those for a daytime garden. By choosing appropriate plants, creating habitat and shelter, and curating a dark, sheltered environment, you can attract nocturnal pollinators and support them year-round. With the right foundation in place, your garden will be ready for the final step: designing spaces that are both beautiful and functional for night pollinators, which we’ll explore in Part 3 of this series.

Who Are Nocturnal Pollinators?

Nocturnal pollinators are species that primarily visit and pollinate flowers after dusk, although it’s not uncommon to see some during the day. These include moths, bats, beetles, and certain flies that rely on night-blooming or night-scented plants. Many of them have evolved specialized ways to find flowers in low light, such as a strong sense of smell, echolocation, or heat detection, making them essential yet often overlooked contributors to healthy ecosystems.

• Moths: Some of the most efficient nighttime pollinators. Many can travel long distances, increasing genetic diversity among plants.
• Beetles: Among the earliest pollinators to evolve and still essential today, especially for shrubs and woody plants.
• Bats: Important pollinators in warmer regions, deserts, and tropical climates, where they support large night-blooming plants.
• Flies: Often overlooked but abundant at dusk and early night, visiting flowers that stay partially open after sunset.

And some bees. Together, they perform much of the nighttime pollination that keeps gardens and wild habitats functioning.

Why Nocturnal Pollinators Matter

The work of pollination is never over—even after dark. While some flowers close when the sun goes down (a phenomenon known as floral nyctinasty), many remain accessible throughout the night.

Thousands of plants have also evolved to only flower at night, when conditions are more favorable. This is common in desert environments, and many flowers will last only a day or two before closing. 

Evening primrose, for instance, opens its petals rapidly at dusk and immediately attracts sphinx moths, which hover like hummingbirds as they feed. In desert regions, night-blooming cereus depends on long-tongued bats for pollination; flowers open for a single night, making their nocturnal visitors critical for survival. These relationships illustrate just how tightly connected many plants are to nighttime pollinators.

Many nighttime pollinators also serve as natural pest control, helping to keep populations of troublesome insects and larvae in check.

The Perils They Face

Night pollinators have four main challenges:

• Habitat fragmentation: Urbanisation is creating islands of green space, which limits feeding and habitat availability. 
• Pesticides and Herbicides: These harm pollinators themselves, some of the insects they feed on, and the plants they live in and eat.
• Climate effects: Changing flowering seasons, reduced blooming periods, and the Urban Heat Island Effect are making it more difficult for pollinators to survive.
• Light Pollution: Many species use moonlight to navigate toward food sources, and bright artificial lights disorient them, causing them to feed less and expend more energy.

Many of these issues can be successfully mitigated within your garden; even more so if you are able to work with your neighbors to coordinate efforts.

Creating a Welcoming Garden

Changing your garden isn’t always practical, and many of the plants you already have likely attract night pollinators to some degree. Below are some practical tips to improve your existing garden with little cost and effort.

Light

Soft yellow or orange outdoor lighting is best for illuminating gardens and driveways at night. Any lighting used should also be shielded to direct light downward and be kept low to the ground wherever possible.

It’s important, however, not to sacrifice home safety. Motion-sensing lights can reduce night pollution while still being bright when needed, and lights can be set to timers so they stay on in the early evening, but turn off in the dead of night. Good curtains and blinds also limit light spill from your house.

If you’ve recently replaced outdoor bulbs, you can also purchase—or make—color filter shades to alter the light cast into your yard.

Debris

Leaf litter, piles of twigs, and mulch are great habitat boosters for nocturnal pollinator populations. Focusing these areas around shrubs and dense flower plantings will help them to stay safe during the daytime as well. 

Water

A shallow dish of water is an excellent way to support the night pollinators already visiting your garden. If you have a bird bath, adding stone and pebbles so there are shallow areas will make it more accessible too. An old plant saucer is an excellent water holder if you want to reuse what you already have.

What Your Help Will Do

Understanding how nocturnal pollinators live and move through the night is the first step toward designing a garden that truly supports them. Many species are imperiled, and recreating snippets of habitat for them provides reliable places to feed, reproduce, and benefit the environment.

Pollinators are essential for plant reproduction and for many food chains, supporting birds, mammals, and other wildlife. Environments thrive when there is a healthy interplay between plants and animals, and nocturnal species are an important component of that. 

Wrapping Up

Understanding how nocturnal pollinators live and move through the night is the first step toward supporting them. As you think about your own garden, consider taking a moment one evening this week to step outside after dusk to see what it’s like. Look for dark spots that would be great for nocturnal pollinators, areas that are too bright, or spots for more flowers.

In the next article, we’ll look more closely at night-blooming plants and how to choose varieties suited to your climate and space. This will help you begin shaping a garden that welcomes nighttime visitors year-round.

Designs

Here are some design inspirations to help you create your own hanging baskets.

A Trailing Paradise

You can frame the edge of your hanging basket with trailing plants like lobelia and ivy geranium. Petunias, geraniums, snapdragons, begonias, and fine-textured sedge grasses can all fill out the center for a showy, spilly design that drapes generously over the sides of the basket. This style works especially well when you lean into colour harmony. Try an analogous palette of pinks, purples, and reds for a soft, cohesive look, or go bold with a split‑complementary scheme — red paired with yellow and blue — for a vibrant, high‑contrast display that still feels balanced.

This design works well as a perennial basket, with annuals traded out through the seasons, giving you a good framed canvas to work with. Most small flowers can work with a basket of this type, which favors dense, showy plantings.

Fragrant Herb Basket

Create a compact, aromatic basket by framing the edges with trailing rosemary and a mix of colourful nasturtiums. A small sage plant is a wonderful off-center centerpiece, and looks great when surrounded by calendula (not so suitable for smaller baskets), oregano, lemongrass, and dwarf mint. 

This basket will require regular trimming so it does not become overgrown, but it is wonderfully fragrant and well worth the maintenance.

Shade-Loving Lush Basket

Choose a small fern, and frame it with fuschias, heuchera, and/or hostas, and an ivy of your choice for a subdued, but no less pretty color palette. This works well in damp, shady environments, or if you want a particularly low-maintenance garden basket for the winter and springtime. In some climates, this will weather the summer, although you can supplement the fading plants with begonias for some easy color.

Drought-Tolerant Basket

Ensure you have well-draining, slightly rockier soil for this one. Mix sedums, trailing jade, rock, and ice plants, and larger succulents like portulaca for a soft green and blue color palette. Consider adding a small feature ‘rock’ to add some bold color, like red sandstone. This pot will want fewer, but deeper waterings and is very much a plant-and-forget basket.

Mini Edible Garden

For a delightful mini-garden, consider a mix of fruits and herbs. Day-neutral strawberries stay small but will fruit very consistently. Common herbs such as oregano, sage, lemongrass, and chives will complement this planting, and the chives can be left to flower for some extra color. 

Dwarf varieties of many plants, including tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and tomatillos, will also grow well in hanging baskets, with spinach and salad leaves also working well. Nasturtiums are an excellent flower choice, and they, too, are edible.

Plant this basket after your last frost date, or start in a protected place such as a greenhouse to get a headstart.

A Winter Basket

For cold-season color, consider plants like crocus, cyclamen, and primula for plants to grow on the out edges of your basket. They work well as a trio, interspersed together, or look beautiful as a color block.  Winter-flowering heathers (such as Erica carnea) and Gaultheria are excellent centerpieces, with beautiful flowers or berries. 

Consider adding a variegated ivy plant for some trailing interest, and some violas (winter pansies) for extra color. Winter baskets are generally best planted just before your first frost date, so the plants can acclimate before the cold weather sets in.

Common Problems and How to Solve Them

Most problems related to hanging baskets come down to water management. Because baskets are more exposed and have shallower soil than ground-level plantings, they dry out quickly. At the same time, frequent heavy watering can flush nutrients from the soil just as fast.

Watering

To reduce the risk of underwatering, check soil moisture regularly—this may mean once or even twice a day during hot weather. Water slowly and in stages, allowing the basket to absorb moisture gradually rather than letting it run straight through.

To avoid overwatering, continue watering only until a small, steady drip appears from the bottom of the basket, then stop. Constant saturation can deprive roots of oxygen and lead to stress or rot, especially if drainage is restricted.

Because nutrients leach quickly from hanging baskets, soil fertility is the second major concern. Regular feeding with a diluted liquid fertilizer, or an appropriate granular fertilizer, is essential during active growth periods. Always water before and after feeding so nutrients are absorbed safely and roots are not damaged.

Fertilizer: Beyond the Bag. By Erin

Understanding Fertilizer Labels. By Lexi

Plants Wilting Despite Moist Soil

If your basket looks wilted even though the soil is damp, poor drainage or root congestion is often the culprit. Compacted soil or an overly thick liner can prevent oxygen from reaching the roots, causing stress even in wet conditions.

Gently loosen the soil surface if possible, ensure drainage holes are clear, and consider thinning or replanting overcrowded baskets. In persistent cases, replanting with a lighter mix is often the best solution.

Uneven Growth or Bare Patches

Hanging baskets are rarely exposed evenly to light, wind, and rain. Plants on the sunniest or windiest side often grow faster, leaving sparse areas elsewhere.

Rotate your basket every week or two to encourage balanced growth. Regular pinching and light pruning also help maintain an even, full shape.

Pests in Hanging Baskets

While hanging baskets are less prone to pests than ground plantings, aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies can still appear—especially in warm, dry conditions.

Inspect plants regularly, particularly the undersides of leaves. Early intervention with hand removal, a strong spray of water, or an organic soap solution usually prevents infestations from becoming serious.

Baskets Drying Out Too Quickly

If you find yourself watering constantly, the issue may be basket size, soil mix, or liner thickness. Very small baskets and ultra-free-draining mixes require near-constant attention in hot weather.

Upsizing the basket, adding more moisture-retentive material to the mix, or using a thicker liner can dramatically reduce watering frequency.

Aging Baskets

It’s important to check on the overall health of your plants and baskets. Perennial plants may become rootbound over time, and should be graduated to your garden if appropriate, or thinned out if possible. 

Additionally, the basket and liner will need upkeep over time. Wood baskets can be refreshed with a suitable natural wood oil, and liners can be replaced as they decay. Hanging baskets are not permanent plantings, and part of their care is knowing when to refresh or retire them.

Wrapping Up

Hanging baskets are a fun, wonderful way to add vibrancy to your garden. As with most gardening, it will take some experimenting to find the best mix of plants and locations for where you live.  With a little attention and curiosity, hanging baskets become less a decoration and more a living, seasonal pocket within your garden space.

In Part 1, we’ll go through different types of hanging baskets and planters, and how to choose plants for them, setting you up for a colorful, vibrant display, or a mini, delicious garden. In Part 2, we’ll cover some planting designs and things to watch out for.

Types of Baskets

There are four main types of hanging, or garden baskets:

• Wicker/woven
• Wire
• Wood
• Plastic

Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most common — and the easiest for beginners — is a wire or wicker basket with a liner. They offer excellent drainage, good airflow, and work with a wide range of plants. They’re also lightweight enough to clip onto trellises, fences, and brackets without much fuss.

I favor wire baskets for their versatility, repairability, and strength, all while being lightweight and affordable. 

Wicker baskets are also excellent, and once they’ve exceeded their lifespan, they can be composted in the garden or left to decay and provide habitat for invertebrates.

Choosing a Liner

Most baskets will need a liner to hold your soil in place. You can buy ready-made cardboard liners and fibrous materials to fit most basket sizes, but a thrifty option is to collect moss from your lawn or use heavy grass clippings. Avoid buying sphagnum moss, unless it has been sustainably harvested. Coco coir liners are an excellent pre-made option, although whatever you choose, look for something around ½ to 1 inch thick.

A good liner does more than hold soil in place, however — it influences how quickly the basket dries out, how well roots can breathe, and how often you’ll need to water. Thicker liners retain moisture longer, while thinner ones allow faster drainage and airflow. If you garden in a hot, dry climate, choose a liner that holds water well; if your space is humid or shaded, a more breathable option helps prevent soggy soil and root rot.

Planning Watering

Hanging baskets are small and often exposed. They dry out faster than in‑ground beds or large containers, so it’s worth planning how you’ll keep them watered. An olla is an excellent option and can be buried as you plant your basket, slowly releasing moisture to the roots throughout the day.

Watering with a can or hose works just as well, especially if you use a fine rose attachment to avoid disturbing the soil or washing it out of the basket. If your basket hangs high or in a hard‑to‑reach spot, an extendable wand or angled sprayer makes watering far easier and helps you reach the soil surface without straining.

Selecting Your Soil

There’s some debate about the “perfect” mix for hanging baskets, but the basics are well agreed on: choose a lightweight potting mix, not garden soil, as garden soil compacts easily and restricts airflow.

Look for mixes that contain coco coir, lightweight aggregates or pebbles for drainage and aeration, and sustainably harvested moss for extra water retention. You can also create your own using compost, moss, grass clippings, fine gravel, and other lightweight organic materials—aiming for a mix that holds moisture without becoming dense or waterlogged.

In hot, dry climates, prioritize mixes that retain moisture a little longer, while in cooler or more humid conditions, a lighter, faster-draining mix helps prevent soggy roots and rot. In all environments, a thin mulch layer on the surface can keep conditions ideal for longer.

Choosing Plants

Plants that can tolerate drier conditions are best for hanging baskets. Decide if you want seasonal annuals or hardy plants for a longer-lasting display. A ‘thriller, filler and spiller’ mix of plants – some with showy flowers or foliage, some taller or bushier plants to fill out the basket, and some trailing plants to soften the edges – gives an attractive display.

Annuals can often be done in two seasons - summer and winter. For summer baskets, plant in late spring after the risk of frost. For winter baskets, plant in autumn as temperatures cool and deciduous trees begin to drop their leaves. For both plantings, acclimate annuals by hardening them off before planting them in the basket. 

Caring for Your Hanging Baskets

Once your basket is planted, a little regular care will keep it looking full and healthy throughout the season. Hanging baskets dry out faster than ground‑level plantings, lose nutrients more quickly, and are more exposed to wind and sun, so small, consistent habits make a big difference.

Watering

Check moisture daily in warm weather. Water until it runs freely from the bottom, as this ensures the entire root zone is saturated. In very hot climates, baskets may need watering twice a day; in cooler or shaded areas, watering every few days may be enough. If the basket ever fully dries out, submerge it in a bucket or basin for 10–15 minutes to rehydrate the soil evenly.

Feeding

Because nutrients leach out quickly, you should feed your basket regularly. A diluted liquid fertilizer every 1–2 weeks keeps annuals blooming and herbs productive. Slow‑release granule pellets can also be mixed into the soil at planting time to provide early nutrition. This is especially good for shrubs and ferns.

Deadheading and Pruning

Regular pruning and deadheading encourage a succession of flowers and prevent the plants’ energy from going into seed production. Trim long or tired stems to maintain shape and encourage fresh growth. For herbs, regular harvesting doubles as pruning and keeps plants tidy

Managing Wind and Exposure

Wind can stress plants and dry out soil rapidly. If your basket is in a particularly exposed spot, rotate it occasionally so all sides receive even light, or move it to a slightly more sheltered location during extreme weather. Heavy baskets may benefit from reinforced hooks or brackets.

Wrapping Up

Hanging baskets are a delight. They are an easy way to decorate areas of your garden, or to plant in small, sometimes more awkward spaces. Baskets can accommodate a variety of plants, and by choosing plants that fit your climate and maintenance schedule, you can have a fuss-free floating greenspace.

Part 2 explores planting ideas to inspire your designs, along with practical fixes for the common issues that hanging baskets face.

A single radiational freeze—characterized by clear skies, still air, and rapidly dropping nighttime temperatures—can damage buds and new growth, and kill young seedlings outright. These freezes can be sudden, often not predicted until the day before, so it’s important to watch the weather.

In this article, we’ll explore how frost behaves in the Desert Southwest, how to plan your garden with frost (and even snow) in mind, and practical ways to prepare for sudden cold snaps when they occur.

Understanding Southwest Frost Patterns

Frost behavior varies dramatically across the region. Higher elevations such as Santa Fe, Moab, and the Mogollon Rim experience long, predictable frost seasons and freezes. In contrast, lower desert valleys, such as Tucson, Las Vegas, and Las Cruces, see much shorter and more sporadic frost windows.

In large metropolitan areas, especially Phoenix, frost events are becoming increasingly rare. One major contributor is the Urban Heat Island (UHI) effect, where infrastructure stores heat during the day and releases it slowly at night, raising ambient temperatures by several degrees.

At higher elevations, frost may be accompanied by snowfall, while lower desert regions are more likely to experience freezing temperatures without snow or moisture.

Large day-to-night temperature swings are common in arid climates, and when frost does occur in the Desert Southwest, it is usually the result of intense radiational cooling. Dry air and clear skies allow heat to escape rapidly from the sandy soil after sunset. Cold, dense air then sinks and pools in low-lying areas such as washes, valleys, and drainage corridors. This means temperatures can dip below freezing overnight, even when daytime highs are 70F or more!

Microclimates

Frost in the Desert Southwest can feel almost fussy. Even on the coldest nights, damage may be limited to specific pockets of your yard while nearby plants remain untouched. Understanding these microclimates—small areas where temperature, airflow, and exposure differ—is very important.

Cold air behaves like water: it flows downhill and pools in low spots. Areas at the bottom of slopes, near washes, or in enclosed north and eastern courtyards often experience colder temperatures than higher or more open ground. Conversely, spaces near buildings, walls, rocks, or paved surfaces tend to stay warmer, as these structures absorb heat during the day and release it slowly at night.

In some areas, this cold pooling may bring light frost alone, while nearby higher ground or higher elevations may see brief snow events instead.

Wind exposure also matters. Still air allows cold to settle, increasing the risk of frost, while gentle air movement can reduce frost formation by preventing cold air from pooling. 

By observing where frost forms first (or not at all), you can make more informed planting decisions: placing tender plants in warmer microclimates, reserving colder pockets for frost-hardy species, and utilizing structures and landscape features to your advantage to create a healthier, easier-to-manage garden.

If you’re unsure where your cold pockets are, a single frosty morning will usually reveal them.

Frost Protection Techniques

Now that we understand how frost behaves in the Desert Southwest, we can look at practical ways to manage and reduce frost damage. While no method is completely foolproof, combining several of these techniques can improve plant survival during cold snaps.

Thermal Mass

Materials that absorb heat during the day and release it slowly at night create pockets of warmer air around plants. Structures such as your home, garden walls, raised adobe beds, concrete patios or driveways, and large boulders all act as thermal mass.

Planting frost-sensitive species near these features—while ensuring their root systems and growth habits are appropriate for the space—can protect them from most light frosts. South- and west-facing walls are especially effective, as they receive more sunlight during the day and retain heat longer into the night.

Mulch

Young perennials, shrubs, and trees often have shallow, delicate root systems that are especially vulnerable to freezing temperatures. A 2–4 inch layer of mulch, pulled back slightly from the stem or trunk to prevent rot, helps insulate the soil and moderate temperature fluctuations.

This insulation can make a critical difference for newly planted or establishing plants. Mature, desert-adapted, or native plants typically need less protection, as they are already well-suited to local conditions.

Nurse Plants

In natural desert ecosystems, plants rarely grow in isolation. Many species rely on nurse plants for protection from sun, wind, and cold, and these same relationships can be used intentionally in the garden.

Trees such as Palo Verde, Mesquite, and Ironwood create sheltered microclimates beneath their canopies, buffering temperature extremes and reducing frost exposure. Nurse plants are particularly helpful for young cacti, agave, and other tender plants.

Covers

Many common, non-native garden plants—including citrus and bougainvillea—are highly frost sensitive and require protection during hard freezes, typically defined as temperatures between 24–28°F.

Simple coverings can be very effective so long as they are breathable. Old bedsheets, pillowcases, towels, or lightweight blankets placed over plants help prevent frost from forming directly on leaves and trap warmer air near the plant. Covers should ideally extend to the ground and be placed before sunset, so they trap warmth from the day rather than cold air from the night. They should be removed once temperatures rise the following morning.

Watering

Managing irrigation around frost events is important. Turning off irrigation the day before a frost allows the soil surface to dry, reducing the risk of root damage from freezing, waterlogged conditions.

Cacti and other succulents should be watered very sparingly in winter. Allowing them to enter semi-dormancy or full dormancy significantly improves their frost tolerance. Well-hydrated, actively growing succulents are far more vulnerable to cold damage.

Pots

Container plants are especially vulnerable to frost because their roots are exposed on all sides. Moving pots closer to the house or into sheltered areas—such as a garage, porch, or carport—can provide crucial protection while keeping plants near their usual temperature range.

Pot material matters as well. Large ceramic pots retain heat and offer some insulation, acting as thermal mass. Wood planters tend to hold moisture that can freeze, providing less protection, while plastic containers offer minimal insulation overall.

Designing for Frost Resilience

While frost protection tools are useful, the most effective strategy is planning your garden so that protection is needed less often. Timing, placement, and plant selection all play a role in reducing frost damage before it happens.

Late-season fertilizing and pruning should be avoided, as both encourage tender new growth that is especially vulnerable to cold. In the Desert Southwest, warm autumn days can be misleading, but it’s best to let plants naturally slow down as winter approaches. Frost-sensitive plants should also be planted after the main frost window whenever possible, rather than rushed into the ground during fall warm spells.

As previously mentioned, placement can dramatically reduce frost exposure. Planting sensitive species in protected pockets, on south or west-facing elevations, or in pots that can be moved as the weather changes makes for a happy garden.

Plant selection ties everything together. Choosing plants that tolerate light frost, go dormant gracefully, or naturally die back and return in spring reduces the need for intervention. Many native and desert-adapted plants are well suited to these cycles, and even fruit trees and ornamentals often have cold-hardy varieties better suited to Southwest conditions.

Wrapping Up

Many plants need cold weather and/or frost to stay healthy, even if not all are fond of them. By combining smart timing, careful placement, and appropriate plant choices with active frost protection techniques, you can create a garden that weathers cold snaps with minimal stress and recovers quickly when warmer days return.

A Bit More About Caliche

Caliche is common in desert environments from the USA to Australia. As rain falls, it dissolves calcium that’s continually added to the soil. That calcium then combines with carbon dioxide in soil water, forming calcium carbonate deposits. Over time, these deposits build up, forming anything from small nodules to thick, continuous layers.

Caliche is generally light-colored—ranging from white to pale pink to reddish-brown—and can be found in layers anywhere from a few inches to several feet thick.

Not all desert soils contain caliche. Its formation depends on several factors, including rainfall, water infiltration, and soil drainage. The Desert Southwest is particularly prone to caliche, partly because it receives relatively high rainfall for a desert climate.

Why Caliche Is Hard on Plants

Caliche can cause several problems for plants:

• Salt buildup. Because caliche traps water near the surface, evaporation leaves salts behind in the upper soil layers, creating conditions most plants don’t tolerate well.
• Poor drainage. Caliche is dense and non-porous, so water often pools above thick layers and may not reach plant roots at all.
• Limited room to grow. Roots rarely penetrate caliche. Trees, in particular, struggle to grow deep roots, which makes them more vulnerable to monsoon winds.
• Nutrient issues. Caliche’s high pH can interfere with nutrient uptake, commonly leading to iron deficiency.

How to Manage Caliche

Unfortunately, there’s no easy fix for caliche. In most cases, the most effective approach is to remove it—partially or completely.

Start by removing enough caliche to dig a hole large enough to support the mature root system of the plant. If you’re unsure how large that should be, local nurseries or university extension services are often excellent resources.

Ideally, the hole should be dug all the way through the caliche layer so water can drain properly. If that isn’t practical, dig smaller drainage holes—or “chimneys”—through the caliche to give water somewhere to go.

If digging deeper isn’t an option, you can add planting depth by building up the soil level instead. Be sure to grade the surrounding area so water doesn’t pool or run off excessively.

Before planting, it’s important to test drainage. Fill the empty hole with about five inches of water. If at least four inches of water drain within four hours, drainage should be adequate.

Discard any removed caliche, and keep the soil mix consistent throughout the planting hole and any drainage chimneys. When placing chimneys, avoid putting one directly beneath the root ball. Instead, dig two or three around the edges of the hole to encourage healthy water movement while reducing the risk of root rot.

Can Soil Additives Help Reduce Caliche?

Soil additives won’t dissolve existing caliche layers, but they can help slow future buildup and improve growing conditions above and around it, releasing many of the nutrients caliche tends to lock away.

Organic matter is the most useful long-term addition. Compost, leaf mold, and well-rotted manure improve soil structure, increase water infiltration, and encourage microbial activity. Over time, this helps water move more evenly through the soil, reducing the conditions that allow calcium carbonate to accumulate in hard layers. Regular additions are more effective than a single large one.

Acidifying amendments, such as elemental sulfur, can slightly lower soil pH over time. This may improve nutrient availability—especially iron—but changes happen slowly and only affect the amended zone. These products should be used cautiously and ideally based on a soil test. Coffee grounds and sustainably harvested peat moss can also help, though coffee grounds may inhibit seed germination if used heavily.

Mulch plays an often-overlooked role. A thick organic mulch reduces surface evaporation, helping limit salt buildup and slowing the upward movement of minerals that contribute to caliche formation. It also protects soil structure during heavy rains.

What Not to Do

In the frustration of dealing with caliche, it’s tempting to reach for quick fixes. Unfortunately, many commonly suggested remedies either don’t work or can actively harm your soil.

Strong acids, including vinegar or commercial acid solutions, should generally be avoided. While acids can react with calcium carbonate on contact, their effects are extremely localized and short-lived. Used improperly, they can damage beneficial soil organisms, burn plant roots, and destabilize soil structure without meaningfully reducing caliche layers. These methods should only be considered with proper knowledge or professional guidance.

Mechanical breaking without follow-up is another common mistake. Simply punching holes into caliche without improving drainage or soil structure often leads to water pooling and root rot. Any break in the caliche should be paired with a consistent soil mix and a clear path for drainage, so caliche doesn’t easily re-form, and so the soil above remains stable.

Finally, avoid the idea that caliche must be completely eliminated. In most Southwest landscapes, working with caliche—by improving the soil above it, managing water thoughtfully, and planting appropriately—is far more effective than trying to fight it outright.

Conclusion

There are many practical ways to manage caliche in your garden. From raising the soil level above it, to planting native species that tolerate it well, to punching through it thoughtfully to improve drainage, caliche can be worked with rather than against. And if you happen to pull out a few large chunks along the way, they can make surprisingly attractive garden rocks.

The Planter Team’s herbs series is an excellent resource for learning about herbs and how to use them. Exercise caution with herbs that you are unfamiliar with, and take the time to research them and their uses. You can find the series here.

This article focuses on creating a herb garden suited to desert conditions.

Location, Location, Location

Light exposure is perhaps the most important consideration when planting. Summers in the Desert Southwest are hot and dry, with extreme UV exposure. Winters are cooler, and frosts are not uncommon from late December through early March.

In general, eastern exposures are ideal year-round, as they provide sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. Other locations can work if steps are taken to limit summer sun exposure, such as covering plants with 30–40% shade cloth or relocating containers to shadier areas.

Dry, hot winds can also be a problem. Using a wall, fence, deciduous trees, or a hedge can help protect herbs while still allowing them to receive adequate light.

Soil

Desert soils are notoriously sandy, rocky, and low in organic matter. Mediterranean herbs will tolerate these conditions with some amendment, but most herbs—even native desert species—perform far better in well-prepared, enriched soil.

Herbs require excellent drainage; otherwise, they are prone to root rot and decay. A simple and effective mix for raised beds or pots is as follows:

• 1 part coarse sand (omit or reduce if your native soil is already sandy)
• 1 part rock or aggregate (small pebbles or gravel work well)
• 1 part coco coir (for moisture retention and light nutrient content)
• 1 part compost (for nutrients and soil structure)

You may also add worm castings, leaf mold, or other organic materials to improve fertility.

To test drainage, moisten a handful of soil and gently squeeze it. When you open your hand, the soil should crumble easily. If it clumps or holds its shape, add more coarse material.

Native Desert Southwest Herbs

While classic herbs grow well with care in the Desert Southwest, many native herbs thrive in even the harshest desert conditions and can make it easier to grow more common culinary plants.

Because many native herbs grow tall and bushy, they work well as companion plants, providing shade and shelter from the sun and wind.

Yerba Mansa (Anemopsis californica)

A low-growing, waxy-leaved groundcover that prefers damp, almost marshy soil. Best grown in a dedicated low spot or container. Yerba Mansa has various medicinal uses, acts as a natural air freshener, attracts butterflies, and provides habitat for small lizards that help with insect control.

Mormon Tea (Ephedra nevadensis)

Sometimes called desert tea, this shrubby evergreen perennial can be steeped for tea. It does not flower and photosynthesizes through its stems rather than leaves. Plants are either male or female and are wind-pollinated.

Note: Ephedra species have a long history of traditional use, but should be consumed with care and proper knowledge.

Chiltepin (Capsicum annuum var. glabriusculum)

This wild pepper is extremely hot, measuring 50,000–100,000 Scoville units. A hardy native, it forms a small bush up to four feet tall and tolerates pruning well. Birds adore the peppers, and they are excellent fresh, dried, or pickled. Plants may die back in winter but return vigorously in spring.

Epazote (Dysphania ambrosioides) — Mexican Tea

A hardy herb native to Mexico and the Southwest. Epazote enhances soups and stews and can also be steeped for tea. This sun-loving plant has several traditional medicinal uses and works well as an anchor plant.

Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.)

Many native amaranth varieties thrive in the Desert Southwest. Some can be aggressive, so choose carefully. These tall, hardy plants provide edible leaves and seeds, and some varieties can be used as natural dyes.

Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)

Often dismissed as a weed, purslane is highly nutritious. Its leaves are excellent in salads and smoothies. With afternoon shade, it can grow nearly year-round in much of the Desert Southwest.

Seasonal Guide

Herbs in the Desert Southwest fall into cool-season annuals (October–May), warm-season annuals (April–November), and perennials.

Cool-season annuals are best planted in fall to establish roots before summer, though spring planting is possible with extra care. Warm-season annuals should be planted in spring to get established before the heat.

Cool-season perennials like French tarragon, lemon balm, marjoram, mint, oregano, and chamomile prefer fall planting, while heat-loving perennials such as Mexican tarragon, lemon verbena, lemongrass, and society garlic do best in spring.

Desert-adapted species such as chiltepin, amaranth, epazote, purslane, and Mormon tea persist year-round, offering structure, shade, and wind protection. Spring planting is usually ideal because the risk of frost has passed, allowing the plants to establish before the summer heat. Fall planting can work too, especially in milder areas, but some protection may be needed for young plants if frost occurs.

Example Southwest Herb Garden Layout

This layout offers plant suggestions for a 4×8 raised bed, a similar in-ground bed, or a cluster of large containers. Tall native herbs create pockets of shade, shelter, and moderated airflow, making it easier to grow classic kitchen herbs.

Back (North) Side — Tall, Heat-Tolerant Natives

• Amaranth
• Epazote
• Chiltepin

These plants could all provide filtered afternoon shade and break hot winds.

Middle Layer — Classic Culinary Herbs

• Basil (warm-season)
• Oregano (cool-season perennial)
• Mint (kept in a buried pot to prevent spreading)
• Lemon balm (cool-season perennial)

Front (South) Edge — Low Herbs and Groundcovers

• Purslane (edible groundcover, year-round)
• Chives
• Parsley or cilantro (rotated seasonally)

A shallow low spot can be incorporated for Yerba Mansa, allowing occasional flood-style irrigation and creating ideal marshy conditions without pooling.

Choosing Herbs

Select a mix of dependable culinary favorites and hardy native plants. Choose one or two tall natives for structure, then fill in with herbs you regularly cook with. Prioritize plants suited to your sun exposure, and include a few that provide shade or wind protection.

Maintenance at a Glance

Most herbs thrive when harvested little and often. Pinch basil and mint to encourage bushiness; trim oregano and lemon balm every few weeks; and cut back tall natives like amaranth or epazote if they begin to overshadow neighbors. During heat waves, increase shade and watering slightly, especially for potted herbs. A quick weekly tidy prevents overcrowding.

Conclusion

Growing herbs in the Desert Southwest is a rewarding experience. With thoughtful planning, you can maintain a year-round garden that attracts pollinators, creates pockets of shade and interest, and provides a steady stream of fresh herbs. In a climate often seen as hostile to gardening, herbs invite us to work with the desert rather than against it.

Although our daytime highs still linger in the high 80s, mornings are cool again, and the dew has returned. With shorter days and lower UV, it’s the perfect time to start cold-season crops and work in the garden all day without drying out. Here’s what’s happening in my garden right now.

Crops

I only have two things in the ground at the moment: corn (Zea mays) and my loofah. Both are maturing nicely and should be ready to harvest before the frosts arrive in late December.

I’ve been keeping a close eye on the weather with the arrival of the La Niña pattern this winter. It looks like Arizona will cling to its warmth a little longer than usual during the day, but we’ll still get those good, cold overnight temperatures that encourage strong growth.

My loofah is still in a large pot, so I can move it indoors if frosts come early. It’s survived a steady onslaught of birds and insects this year, so I’m happy to have made it this far. Because it’s a little later for it to grow, hoverflies have been the primary pollinators, now that many of the bees have moved on for the season. Just a fun observation.

My hope is to get at least one gourd to dry into a sponge, plus plenty of seeds to donate to my local library’s seed-sharing program, which is where I got some of my seeds from this year.

Next to go into the ground are carrots and mustard greens, with a few other cool-season vegetables following soon after.

Flowers

My Vinca is doing too well for an annual — I suspect it was mislabeled and is actually the perennial variety. Sadly, though, it hasn’t attracted many pollinators, so I may retire it at the end of the year and replace it with more pollinator-friendly flowers, even though I’ve grown quite fond of it.

On the brighter side, I’ve planted two more Gregg’s Mistflowers. After a tenuous summer, they’ve fully rooted and are putting up fresh growth. We’ve had dozens of butterflies this year, and I hope for even more next year as I expand their food and larval host options. I have two varieties of native penstemon growing, as well as a handful of other native wildflowers, which escaped the hungry Cardinals.

Desert Plants

It’s been a good year for cactus and other desert natives. I’ve started six young Ocotillos — soft and spindly for now, a world apart from their thorny, architectural adult form. They’re finicky to start and have a low germination rate, but finding local seeds has helped.

I’ve also rooted another half dozen paddle cacti, rehabilitated a few dozen agave pups, and started several barrel cacti from seed. My native grasses are on track for transplanting next spring, and I’ve begun growing half a dozen less common native trees — easily the part of the garden I’m most excited about.

Other native plants — sunflowers, jojoba, and desert willow — are maturing well and should overwinter successfully.

Future Plans

This winter will bring a lot of tree work and the creation of a new wildlife habitat. I’ve seen a noticeable increase in bees this year, and I’ll be building bee habitats for solitary bees over the colder months. Pruning, root work, and general maintenance will continue well into spring, but the trees already look much healthier for it.

I’m also planning more plants that feed pollinators and serve as larval hosts — a research project I’m thoroughly enjoying. This year, I saw over half a dozen Arizona Mantises (Stagmomantis limbata) hiding in the native plants, which was wonderful. I hope to attract even more native insect species as the garden continues to fill out.

Wrapping Up

There’s so much that excites me; I could write for hours about the different birds I’ve seen, the other native plants I’ve been planting, the zen garden I’ve made, and more, but this snapshot will have to suffice.

I hope your garden has gone well this year, even if you faced challenges. I had more than a handful with the weather and all manner of other things, but I had fun once again, and I hope to continue that enjoyment over the winter.

Overwintering Rhubarb

In temperate climates, rhubarb generally survives the winter on its own. In fact, the plant needs around 500 hours (around 7 weeks) at 40°F (4 °C) or below to trigger healthy new growth in spring. 

In the fall, allow the remaining leaves to die back naturally before cutting the stems near the base of the plant. The leaves can be added to your compost pile, but should not be left to break down around the plant.

While rhubarb is hardy down to -30°F (-34°C), extra protection can help in regions with particularly long or harsh winters, such as USDA Zone 4 or mountainous areas. Applying a thick layer of mulch after the leaves have been removed provides insulation against freezing temperatures. During my time in Idaho, I found that covering rhubarb with a pot throughout the winter helped temper the colder nights and protected tender shoots from late frosts, snow, and ground upheaval.

In warm desert climates, overwintering is more challenging. Unless winter temperatures regularly drop below 40°F, rhubarb crowns may struggle to survive. In the U.S., this includes the high desert regions of California and much of Arizona. Planting rhubarb in pots that can be moved to cooler locations, such as a garage or shed, can help the plant survive.

General Plant Care

Young rhubarb plants—those less than two years old—require careful watering during dry spells to establish deep, vigorous roots. Once established, care mainly involves removing flower stems to encourage more leaf growth, clearing away faded leaves, and dividing overcrowded clumps.

Rhubarb should be watered when the soil around it becomes dry or the leaves show signs of stress. These hardy plants like to be kept damp, but not wet. If the summer is particularly hot and dry, growth will slow down, and the plant may enter a dormant state for the rest of the season.

Spring mulching is highly beneficial. You should apply a 2½-inch deep ring of organic mulch around each plant each year, extending roughly a foot wide. This helps retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain a stable, fertile soil environment.

Rhubarb occasionally produces flowering stems in spring or summer. Removing them promptly prevents the plant from weakening and reduces the chance of bolting. Flowering is more likely after wet summers, excessive nitrogen feeding, or in older plants that haven’t been divided for several years.

Dividing Mature Plants

Dividing rhubarb is a satisfying way to rejuvenate plants and provide extra crowns to share. This is usually done after five years, though overcrowded or slow-growing plants may benefit from earlier division.

The best time to divide rhubarb is when the plant is dormant, typically between mid-autumn and early spring. Dig up the entire crown carefully, then split it into sections using a sharp knife or hori-hori.

Each division should include plenty of roots, a portion of the rhizome, and at least one bud. Outer sections are generally healthier than older inner sections, while weak or diseased pieces should be discarded. Replant the divisions the same day if possible, spacing them about three feet apart.

Harvesting Rhubarb

Rhubarb should not be harvested in its first year so that it can establish a strong root system. Light harvesting can be done in the second year, but full production really begins in the third year. From this point, up to one-third of the stalks can be removed at a time, typically from April or May, for around 10-14 weeks. Always leave enough leaves on the plant so it can photosynthesize and maintain healthy growth.

Select stems that are about a foot long with freshly unfurled leaves. To harvest, grip the base with your thumb on the skyward side and fingers beneath, then gently pull the stalk from the ground. Avoid cutting or snapping stems, which can damage the crown or introduce rot.

Harvested rhubarb keeps in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, or it can be frozen after being chopped into small pieces. Remember, only the stalks are edible—leaves contain oxalic acid and should be composted or discarded safely.

Forcing Rhubarb

Rhubarb stems naturally grow towards the light, a bit like sunflowers. Being a very vigorous plant, this adaptation can be maximized by growing the rhubarb in near darkness.

To force rhubarb, you will need a crown that has been in your garden for at least 1-2 years, and is healthy and well-established. As the heavy winter frosts begin to ease, cover the crown to exclude light, which encourages tender, sweet stems.

Forced rhubarb is generally sweeter and juicier than normal rhubarb.

There are three main steps:

1. Mulch the rhubarb with fresh, rich mulch. Form a generous donut right around the crown, making sure the crown itself is only lightly covered. 
2. To cover the crown to exclude light, you will need a large, opaque object. A wide 5-10 gallon-sized pot is excellent, or a kitchen dustbin. If it has drainage holes in the pot already, tape them over using heavy-duty waterproof tape. You can also buy dedicated rhubarb cloches.
3. Cover the mulched rhubarb with the bin, and water the plant heavily once a week. The warmth from the decomposing mulch will feed and wake the plant from dormancy. 

After 5–8 weeks, you should have fresh, tender stems about 1 ft long. Harvest gently, then uncover the plant once the risk of frost has passed. Lightly mulch again and allow it to rest for the remainder of the year—don’t harvest forced plants again until the next season.

Wrapping Up

Planting your rhubarb at the right time, caring for it through the seasons, and then dividing it when it gets mature will give you plants that can last over 15 years. One final tip from us is to stagger your plantings. Having plants of different ages means you will always have rhubarb ready to harvest, while some are resting after being divided or forced, or are freshly planted.

Happy growing, and happy eating!

More so than in temperate climates, it’s vital to watch the weather. Extreme heat spells or cold snaps require forethought to protect your plants, and site selection is even more important. These tips cover key points for hot and cold climates, and how you can grow rhubarb successfully.

Rhubarb in Hot, Arid Climates

Rhubarb can grow in hot, dry climates such as Arizona, the high deserts of California, and parts of inland Australia, but it requires some adjustments to survive the intense summer heat while still receiving enough winter chill.

1. Timing and Seasonality Plant crowns in late fall (October–November) to take advantage of cooler temperatures and help roots establish. Light harvesting can begin in late winter to early spring, before the intense summer heat arrives. Once temperatures climb above about 85°F (29°C), rhubarb will naturally go dormant. Forcing it to grow during midsummer can stress the plant and reduce its lifespan.

2. Light and Shade Management Rhubarb thrives with morning sun and afternoon shade. In extremely hot areas, protect leaves from sun scorch using shade cloth, pergolas, or by planting near structures that block the afternoon sun. In containers, plants can be moved to shaded patios or under trees during peak heat; putting pots on wheels makes this easier.

3. Mulching and Soil Care Apply 3–4 inches of organic mulch around the crown to insulate roots, retain moisture, and reduce soil temperature. Mulch can lower soil temperature by around 10°F, keeping roots cooler in scorching summer heat.

4. Container Planting Options Deep pots (at least 2 ft wide by 2 ft deep) are highly effective. Containers allow you to relocate plants for shade, and the soil mix can be tailored for drainage and fertility. Container soil will need yearly replenishment with compost as hotter temperatures often lead to quicker nutrient leaching.

5. Summer Dormancy and Winter Chill During summer dormancy, rhubarb leaves usually wilt or die back entirely. Water lightly to keep the soil damp but not wet. In regions where winters remain warm (e.g., parts of inland Australia), potted rhubarb can be moved to a cool space around 40°F / 4–10°C for 6–8 weeks to simulate dormancy and trigger spring growth.

6. Watering Considerations Water deeply and regularly to encourage robust root growth, making sure to water below the leaves so it soaks into the soil. The soil should be damp but not soggy. Tools like Ollas can provide steady moisture and cool soil conditions, though they must be removed or protected during frost.

7. Wind Care Hot, desert winds can desiccate leaves quickly. If you live in a flatter, more open area, watch the winds and provide protection against the prevailing winds. Shade cloth fixed vertically is an excellent wind screen.

With careful management of light, mulch, water, and timing, rhubarb can thrive in hot, arid climates. Because rhubarb needs winter chill to survive as a perennial, plants in these regions may last 2–3 years rather than the usual 5+, which is normal. Using large pots gives flexibility to move plants to cooler spots during winter or summer.

Rhubarb in Colder Climates

In colder regions, rhubarb is extremely hardy, but extra protection ensures crowns survive harsh winters and produce strong harvests.

1. Mulching and Winter Cover After leaves die back in fall, apply a thick 4–6 inch layer of mulch around the crown to insulate against freezing temperatures. Straw, leaf litter, or compost works well. In very harsh winters (USDA Zone 4 or mountainous areas), cover crowns with burlap, a cloche, or even a large pot to protect young shoots from late frosts and snow. Mulch also helps prevent frost heaving, where crowns lift from the soil during freeze-thaw cycles.

2. Site Selection Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil. Cold air can settle in low spots, so slightly elevated planting sites help protect crowns from frost. Small mounds are ideal in frost-prone areas.

3. Forcing Rhubarb in Cold Climates Forcing is ideal for early spring harvests. Use the same mulch-and-cover method as in temperate climates, ensuring crowns have been established for at least 1–2 years. Darkness encourages tender, sweet stems for early desserts (more on harvesting and forcing in Part 3).

4. Watering Water sparingly during winter dormancy. Excess moisture combined with freezing temperatures can lead to crown rot. Resume watering in spring as soil thaws and growth begins, or observe soil moisture—sometimes no extra water is needed if rainfall is sufficient.

5. Longevity With proper winter protection, rhubarb crowns can live for 10–15 years or more. Dividing overcrowded crowns in late winter or early spring rejuvenates plants and maintains productivity.

Growing rhubarb in more extreme climates requires planning, but with attention to temperature, predicted rainfall, and seasonal adjustments, you can enjoy delicious stems year after year. Even if harvests are smaller or plants behave more like annuals in hot regions, foresight ensures your rhubarb thrives for seasons to come.

In Part 3, we’ll go over general care tips for all climates, harvesting advice, and additional ways to grow rhubarb.

In the first part of this series, we’ll discuss popular varieties and go over how best to plant rhubarb.

Popular Varieties

There are dozens of rhubarb cultivars, each created for different reasons. Some grow more quickly, others are sweeter, and some are suited to more challenging environments. If you live in a temperate environment, such as the UK, you will find that most, if not all, varieties will grow with good success. 

Choosing varieties more suited to your growing needs and conditions will give you healthier plants that produce more rhubarb stalks for you each year.

Varieties for Warm Climates

• MacDonald Rhubarb — Developed in the 1920s, this variety is less tart than most and shows excellent resistance to heat, wilt, and root rot. Performs best up to Zone 8 but can continue beyond that with attentive care.
• Canada Red Rhubarb — A compact variety with shorter, tender stems and a naturally sweet flavor. Prefers cooler conditions up to Zone 8 but can be grown as an annual in warmer zones with partial shade and consistent watering.
• Crimson Red (Cherry Red) — Known for its striking deep red stalks and good heat tolerance. While not ideal for desert zones, it performs well in areas with warm summers and mild winters.

Varieties for Temperate Climates

• Timperley Early — One of the first varieties ready for harvest, often by early spring. Perfect for gardeners eager to enjoy rhubarb pies and crumbles while other crops are still waking up.
• Sutton — With vivid red stalks and a well-balanced tartness, Sutton is both ornamental and productive. Performs best in steady, temperate conditions without extreme heat or cold, and is a good option for smaller gardens.
• Champagne — A classic English variety with slender, pinkish stems and a delicate flavor. Particularly good for forcing (growing in darkness to produce early, tender stalks) and favored by traditional kitchen gardeners.

Varieties for Cold Climates

• German Wine — A hardy selection with strong, thick stalks that hold up well in late frosts. Has a deep, rosy hue and a pleasant balance of sweetness and acidity, making it a favorite for preserves and baking.
• Valentine — Noted for its vivid crimson color and resilience, Valentine tolerates very cold winters and returns reliably each year. Less stringy than some other varieties, making it excellent for cooking.

All-Around Variety

• Victoria — A dependable heirloom and one of the oldest named varieties, Victoria produces long, greenish-red stalks with a mild flavor. Forgiving of different soils and weather patterns, it tolerates moderate cold and, with some extra shade, can survive hot summers. It’s also less prone to bolting than most other varieties.

How to Plant Rhubarb

Rhubarb can be planted as dormant crowns (typically sold November–March) or as potted plants later in the spring. Dormant crowns are ideal for establishing a strong root system, while potted plants give a head start on growth.

Fall is the ideal time to plan your rhubarb garden, giving you time to prepare the planting site and source quality crowns. This allows you to prepare the planting site and find the best places to get your rhubarb crowns from. Many garden centers will sell them; however, you can always ask a neighbor if they have any crowns ready to divide.

Planting Steps:

1. Prepare the Soil: Choose a location with rich, fertile soil that receives plenty of sun. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12–18 inches and amend with compost or well-rotted material such as leaf mold.
2. Dig the Hole: Make a hole slightly wider than the root system (about 1.5 times the crown’s width) and deep enough so the base of the buds sits just above the soil surface.
3. Planting: Place the crown or potted plant in the hole, spreading roots gently without bending or crowding them. For crowns, ensure the buds point upward. Backfill the hole with soil and compost mix, firming gently.
4. Mulching: Apply a light donut-shaped mulch ring around the crown (1 inch deep, up to 1 ft wide) to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and stabilize soil temperature. The mulch should be pulled about an inch back from the crown to prevent rot.
5. Watering: Water deeply immediately after planting to help roots settle. For the first few weeks, maintain consistent moisture without waterlogging the soil.
6. Spacing: Space plants 75–90 cm (30–35 in) apart to allow room for the plants to mature. Overcrowding can reduce airflow, increasing disease risk. Varieties vary in size, so check how large your plants will get before you plant; you may have to increase the spacing.
7. Container Planting: If using pots, choose a container at least 2 ft wide and 2 ft deep per plant. This allows for controlled soil conditions, easier relocation to shade, and better heat management in hot climates.

In the next section, we’ll cover how to select the perfect site for rhubarb.

Choosing a Planting Location

Rhubarb thrives in sunny locations, although it will tolerate some shade quite well. The soil should be rich and fertile and hold water well without becoming waterlogged. If your soil is clay-heavy or has poor drainage, amend it with mulch and compost to improve porosity and create consistent air pockets.

Rhubarb stems are easily damaged by late frosts, unless you choose a late-cropping variety that emerges later into the spring. Sites that get the first sun of the day are ideal, as morning sun helps burn off frost and overly heavy dew quickly. Slightly elevated spots are also preferable, since cold air can settle in low areas and increase the risk of frost damage. Planting rhubarb in small mounds can help.

Very cold or very hot environments will have slightly different planting needs, which we will cover in part 2.

Compost is an excellent soil amendment and a powerful way to enrich impoverished soil. But as compost requires moisture and plenty of organisms, is it possible in the desert? The answer is yes—with a few adaptations. With some extra shade and water, you can produce nutrient-rich compost in even the most inhospitable of deserts.

The Desert Environment

To compost effectively, it helps to understand the nuances of desert conditions. Arid and harsh as they are, conditions can vary dramatically across desert environments. In the Desert Southwest of the USA, for example, there are over six major biomes, from extreme arid to high mountain deserts, to milder subtropical valleys and vast mountainous expanses. Many plants will grow across multiple biomes, and while they can survive the harshest conditions, they thrive even more under optimal ones.

Generally speaking, most desert plants are adapted to low-nutrient, sandy soils that drain quickly. While compost can promote lush green growth, many desert plants may flower less if the soil is too rich, since arid conditions are what trigger blooming.

We’ll cover when and what to add compost to next.

What and When to Compost

Native cacti and succulent plants do not need compost amendment when being planted or transplanted. That being said, check the ideal soil conditions for the plant. Excessively sandy soil will benefit from some compost around the root zone to hold more water for longer, and heavy clay or caliche soils will benefit from the air and water pockets it will add.

Most non-native plants will require compost when planting, and yearly additions to increase the nutrient levels around the plants. Vegetable and flower beds adore plentiful additions of compost, and this, combined with good mulching, will lower your water bill, too.

A light compost amendment each year for native plants will help them weather challenging conditions and put down stronger roots. The exception for this would be cacti and succulents; they do very well on their own. 

Composting in the desert is best done in the fall, after the long, hot summer. This allows plants to recover from extreme heat and lets nutrients settle into the soil over the cooler, wetter winter months. Adding around 10-20% mix to the general growing zone is plenty, and will keep the conditions on the scarce side, which most plants prefer. Mixing in pebbles or gravel in small quantities can keep the soil draining well, too.

Starting your Desert Compost

Desert soil is, despite how it looks, incredibly high in microorganisms and fungi, and these are essential nutrient recyclers. A few shovelfuls of desert soil will provide your compost pile with all of the organisms you need to get going.

The Container

Next, choose your compost setup. You can use a closed container, like a large bucket or repurposed trash bin with holes drilled for airflow. Many Arizona municipalities, for example, offer old bins for this purpose.

Alternatively, you can create an open pile under some shade. Open piles allow monsoon rains to naturally add moisture, but they require a bit more hands-on maintenance to keep the pile active. A permeable shade cloth is a good cover. 

Compost bins don’t need to be expensive or complicated to make compost. The structure should keep birds, dogs, cats, and other animals out, while allowing easy access for adding more material and turning. A good bin allows for gas exchange and drainage.

Recycled wooden pallets marked with HT (heat-treated) can be attached with hinges to create an effective compost bin. Old tin sheets, chicken wire mesh, and more can be recycled into a perfectly good solution.

The optimal size for a bin or pile is 3 ft x3 ft x3 ft to 4 ft x4 ft x4 ft. This balances temperature, airflow, and ease of maintenance well.

Water 

The compost pile should be kept damp throughout the year. It should be around 40-60% water weight overall and will feel like a barely damp sponge. During the summer, weekly misting from the hose may be needed, or decomposition will slow down.

To reduce water consumption, you can add waste coffee or tea water to the pile, unsalted water used for cooking, or that leftover water in your bottle that might be a little old to drink.

Materials

Most organic kitchen and garden waste can be composted. Aim for a balance of “browns” and “greens” to maintain a healthy 20:1 carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio.

Browns (carbon-rich):

• Dry leaves
• Straw or hay
• Sawdust or wood shavings (in limited amounts)
• Twigs and small branches

Greens (nitrogen-rich):

• Vegetable peelings
• Fruit scraps (in moderation)
• Spent flowers
• Coffee grounds
• Unscented, unsalted tea or coffee water

Tips:

• Keep woody materials low overall, as they sequester nitrogen until they fully decompose.
• Chop or shred larger items to speed decomposition.
• Avoid materials with disease, pesticides, or heavy salt content.

The EPA has good reference tables for common compostable materials.

Adding Oxygen

The desert environment will add plenty of heat to your compost pile, so keeping it well aerated is essential to stop the microorganisms from starving. Adding twigs and small branches creates permanent airflow paths, and rigorous weekly ‘turn’ will mix up well-composted material with freshly added materials.

Maintaining Your Compost

Compost piles enjoy being fed, so try to add materials weekly, even if it’s only small amounts. Breaking up additions into smaller pieces increases their surface area, meaning they will decompose faster.

Turning ensures the pile stays mostly aerobic, preventing unpleasant odors and speeding decomposition. As you turn the pile, add water so that it is more consistently damp. 

Your compost is ready when the material is a dark, earthy brown with a sweet smell. It should have reached an internal temperature of 130°F for at least 7 days to kill off any harmful organisms. This is easy to achieve in the desert heat.

Key-Point Roundup

• Use desert soil to jump-start your pile: A few shovelfuls provide essential microorganisms and fungi.
• Choose the right setup: Closed bins retain moisture with less maintenance; open piles under shade benefit from natural rain but need more hands-on care.
• Keep it damp, not soggy: Aim for 40–60% water content—like a barely damp sponge. Avoid salty or contaminated water.
• Balance browns and greens: Aim for roughly a 20:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. Browns = dry leaves, straw, twigs; Greens = kitchen scraps, coffee grounds.
• Aerate regularly: Turn the pile weekly to maintain oxygen flow and speed decomposition. Adding twigs and small branches creates airflow paths.
• Amend wisely: Native desert plants need light annual compost; non-natives and vegetable/flower beds can handle more. Cacti and succulents do not need compost except in rare cases.
• Timing matters: Compost in fall after the summer heat; this helps nutrients integrate into the soil and supports plant recovery.
• Ready when it’s dark and earthy: Compost is finished when it smells sweet, is dark brown, and has been at ~130°F for at least 7 days.

Wrapping Up

With some extra attention, a healthy sprinkling of desert soil, and a steady stream of garden waste, composting in desert environments is almost as easy as in more temperate ones. Keep an eye on moisture levels, and you’ll have a steady supply of rich compost after a couple of years, which will be perfect for a light annual amendment around your plants.

So, how can you mimic that natural nutrient cycle and the accumulation of organic matter on the ground at home? One of the simplest and most effective methods is mulching.

Why Mulch Matters

Mulching does more than make a tree look tidy. A proper layer of mulch:

• Helps the soil retain moisture for longer.
• Regulates soil temperature by providing shade and a frost barrier.
• Suppresses weeds, reducing competition for water and nutrients.
• Adds organic matter as it breaks down.
• Creates a physical barrier for the roots, minimizing damage from lawnmowers and foot traffic.

A good layer of mulch is generally at least 2–3 inches thick, though this can vary depending on your location. Mulching is best done in spring or fall, when the tree is free from the stresses of winter and summer. This timing also allows for careful digging around the tree without harming its roots.

Choosing Your Mulch

Organic, undyed mulch is always best for your garden. These mulches are free from chemicals or dyes that could contaminate the soil. Common store-bought options include:

• Shredded bark
• Wood chips
• Coarse compost

You can also make your own at home:

• Shredded leaves
• Leaf mold
• Coarse compost

Avoid rocks and gravel unless you live in a desert environment such as the Desert Southwest. Care should still be taken, however, (and should be mostly avoided), as the accumulation of rocks and gravel around trees can create a localized heat island that can scald roots and reflect heat onto the trunk.

Rock and gravel mulches also create prime growing spots for weeds, and while they need less new material added over time, they eventually compact the soil and starve the ground of oxygen and nutrients.

How to Mulch a Tree: Step by Step

Mulching is best done in early spring or late fall when the soil is moist and temperatures are moderate. If you live in a climate with very hard frosts, some experts recommend waiting until after the first frost in fall, or after the last heavy frost in spring.

Step 1: Size your Mulch Ring The ideal mulch ring extends to the tree’s ‘drip line,’ or the general reach of the branches. For larger mature trees, this can get quite large, so a 4–6 ft diameter ring is a good place to start, although extending mulch as far as practical toward the drip line provides the greatest benefit.

Mark the ring with stakes, non-toxic chalk paint, or simply eyeball it for a more natural look. You can always adjust it later if needed.

Step 2: Clear the Base The area marked for your mulch ring should be free of weeds and grass before you spread mulch. Weeds can be smothered with cardboard or removed with a small shovel or tool. Remove the top layer of weedy and grassy soil carefully to minimize damage to roots.

Step 3: Expose the Root Flare and Main Roots Look for the root flare—the area where the trunk widens and transitions into the main buttress roots. This part should always be visible above the soil surface, never buried. Carefully dig around the flare and main roots to fully expose them, giving them access to oxygen. This prevents rot or girdling roots caused by the buried flare.

Step 4: Remove Additional Soil if Needed Because mulch will be 2–3 inches deep, it’s a good idea to level the ring, especially if the topsoil covers roots too deeply. If the area is raised or compacted, gently remove excess soil to expose the root flare and avoid smothering roots.

Step 5: Spread the Mulch Apply mulch evenly to a depth of 2–3 inches. Keep mulch 1–3 inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture from contacting the bark, which can encourage pests and disease. You should always be able to see the first part of the root flare clearly; if not, the mulch is too close or too deep.

Step 6: Maintain and Reapply Mulch breaks down over time, adding organic matter to the soil. In some climates, this may require refreshing the mulch once a year; in drier areas or with slower-decomposing mulch, every 2–3 years may be sufficient. When refreshing mulch, always check that it hasn’t crept up the trunk—mulch volcanoes can suffocate roots and invite decay.

For desert trees 

The steps are almost all the same for desert trees. However, with the sandier soil, less prep work will be required. Gravel is recommended as a soil amendment in small amounts before applying mulch to condition the soil and provide good air and water circulation.

Still apply a 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch to the drip line. I typically mulch mine with the organic litter they create, allowing the leaves to decompose a little in a pile before spreading, so they aren’t carried so easily by the strong winds.

Common Mulching Mistakes

Even experienced gardeners sometimes make mistakes when mulching. Here are a few pitfalls to watch for so your mulch works with your tree, not against it.

1: Weed Barriers and Over-Mulching. Avoid using weed membranes or landscape fabric—they can suffocate the soil and disrupt natural microbial activity. Weeds are easy to pull from mulch since they take longer to root. Also, don’t overdo the mulch: more than 4 inches can smother roots and reduce oxygen flow.

2: Excessive Moisture Retention. Fine-textured mulch like peat moss, grass clippings, or sawdust holds excessive moisture and can lead to fungal issues. These materials should only be used in combination with coarser mulch. A balanced blend improves drainage and aeration.

3: Heat Injury. Dark-colored mulches absorb heat during the day and release it slowly at night, which can cause heat stress and tissue damage—especially in young trees. Undyed, natural mulch is a safer choice.

4: Root Collar Rot. Mounding mulch around the base of a tree (a “mulch volcano”) can trap moisture against the bark, leading to decay at the root collar or to root girdling. Once this tissue is compromised, disease organisms can easily invade, and girdled roots can eventually starve the tree.

Always keep mulch pulled back from the trunk and root flare.

Wrapping Up

Mulching your trees will help them thrive. It’s an easy way to give them nutrients, support a healthy living environment, and create a healthier environment not only for your trees, but also for the wildlife that depend on them.

Mulching also doesn’t have to be done all at once. There are a lot of trees in my yard, so I’ve spread it out. I’ve started with a small ring around all of the trees and will slowly expand them to the right size, doing a little every year.

In this article, we’ll run through the simple process and break down (pun intended) some of the science behind it.

What is Leaf Mold?

Despite its name, leaf mold isn’t slimy, smelly, or unpleasant. It’s simply decomposed leaves broken down by fungal activity rather than bacteria, as happens in traditional composting. Unlike compost, leaf mold doesn’t require “green” materials like vegetable scraps—it’s just leaves. The result is a dark, earthy-smelling material packed with nutrients that enriches the soil and supports plant health.

Why Use Leaf Mold in Your Garden?

Fallen leaves naturally decompose over a period of one to two years, returning essential nutrients to the soil and conditioning it to be more suitable for plant growth. By actively making leaf mold, you speed up this process and gain several key benefits:

• Improved soil structure – Leaf mold makes soil more porous by creating air pockets and adding structure, helping roots grow deeper and stronger.
• Enhanced moisture retention – Leaf mold can hold several times its weight in water (and it releases it slowly), reducing the need for frequent watering—especially useful in dry seasons.
• Boosted soil biodiversity – By introducing beneficial fungi and microbes that work alongside worms and other decomposers, leaf mold creates healthy, aerated soil that has readily available nutrients.

How to Make Leaf Mold

All you need are leaves, water, and time. With a few simple steps, you can speed up the decomposition process and have nutrient-rich leaf mold ready in as little as six months.

Step 1: Collect the Right Leaves

• Choose a variety of deciduous leaves. If it falls to the ground in autumn, it’s deciduous.
• Avoid waxy leaves (e.g., magnolia, holly) and limit the amount of pine needles you use, as they decompose much more slowly and are quite acidic.
• Thin, crisp leaves (like birch or maple) break down fastest, while tougher leaves (like oak) take longer but still produce excellent leaf mold. A diverse mix is ideal and will vary based on your local tree species.

Step 2: Shred and Contain

• Shred some of the leaves by running over them with a lawnmower a couple of times, or by rubbing them between your hands. This increases the decomposable surface area. Some leaves should be left whole.
• Stuff the leaves into your bag of choice (plastic or paper [I prefer paper]) or a dedicated leaf pile in a cool, shady area. Both methods work well—it’s mostly about space and convenience. Note that paper bags may start to decompose, so you may need to double-bag.
• If you are creating your leaf mold in a pile (or compost bin), placing a waterproof or weed-suppressing membrane, such as burlap, underneath the leaf pile helps the pile to stay damp.
• If using bags, poke a few small holes near the top for airflow and the bottom for drainage. A pencil works well for this.

Step 3: Add Water and Wait

• Lightly moisten the leaves—they should be damp but not soaking wet.
• Store the filled bags of leaves or pile in your chosen shady spot and check every few weeks, adding water as needed to maintain moisture.
• Turn the leaves (by shaking or with a trowel) occasionally to encourage healthy fungi (both aerobic and anaerobic, for you fungi enthusiasts) to decompose the leaves more quickly and efficiently.

Step 4: Use in Your Garden

• Your leaf mold is ready when most of the leaves have broken down into dark, crumbly material (typically within 6–12 months).
• Spread it as mulch on top of soil or mix it into garden beds.

Top Uses for Leaf Mold in the Garden

• Mulch: Spread 2–3 inches thick around plants and trees to conserve water, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
• Soil Amendment: Mix into garden beds or containers to improve soil texture, aeration, and water-holding capacity.
• Seed Starting Mix: Blend sifted leaf mold with sand or compost for a light, moisture-retentive seedling medium.
• Potting Mix Ingredient: Combine with compost and perlite/vermiculite for a balanced, nutrient-rich potting soil.

The Science

Leaves are carbon-rich, which makes them delicious to carbon-consuming micro-organisms, like fungi. Because fallen leaves are either dead or mostly dead, they have lost most of their nitrogen, and are now considered ‘brown’ garden material as opposed to the traditional ‘green’ garden material traditionally used for compost.

Enzymes released by the fungi break down the leaf matter, releasing very little heat. That’s why leaf mold doesn’t ‘cook’ like compost—it stays cool and works slowly, leaving you with a stable, humus-rich conditioner

Final Thoughts

Leaf mold is an easy, low-cost way to improve soil health while recycling what nature provides. With minimal effort, you can transform fallen leaves into a powerhouse soil conditioner that keeps your garden thriving.

So next time autumn rolls around, save—don’t toss—the leaves from your garden, or your neighbour’s garden, and start making leaf mold for healthier soil and stronger plants!

For extra bonus points, leave some leaves to decompose naturally. This is good both for the plants they fell from and for the host of critters that call leaf piles home.

Native Flowers

I’ve been slowly introducing native plants as my budget and time allow. I have three Gregg’s Mistflower (Conoclinium greggii), and I’ve already seen about a dozen Queen butterflies visiting them. Mistflower is a keystone species for them, so that’s very exciting. I’ve also noticed tiny native bees darting in and out of the blooms, collecting pollen with surprising precision.

The goldenrod is in full bloom, a sure sign that fall is on the way. I’m hoping to attract migrating Monarch butterflies this year, along with any other visitors that may drop in. Even the occasional hummingbird has been spotted hovering near the goldenrod, curious and quick.

I’ve planted two milkweed plants. They’ve already bloomed and should start spreading in time for next year. Milkweed is a keystone species for butterflies and native bees, so I’m hoping to see more of both.

Habitats

I mentioned leaf litter in my last entry, and I’ve been continuing that. It’s baby lizard season right now, and I’ve seen dozens zipping around the garden among the leaves — their tiny movements catching the light like living confetti.

I’ve also been scouting locations for bee habitats, which will be my Fall project. It won’t be so hot then, and after trimming all twelve-plus trees, I’ll have a clear sense of both tree and ground habitat spaces. I’m particularly excited about creating little “sunny nooks” under the trees where bees and other beneficial insects can nest safely.

Seedlings

Arizona’s cool growing season is approaching, and I’ve started some early seedlings: two types of sunflowers, mini-pumpkins, and soon, Mexican native popcorn (the closest native seed I could find) and some lemon balm. 

My loofah has doubled in size and is ready for repotting.

Long-term Plans

In my quest to reduce water usage, I’ve started another round of native plants: Jojoba, Apache Plume grass, and Fern of the Desert. I also have Penstemon and globemallow ready to plant, along with some winter-rain wildflower seeds. These seeds are unpredictable — you scatter them before any hint of rain and hope they bloom.

This cool season, I’ll likely stick to pumpkins and corn due to space and time constraints. I’m starting a Master’s program, but I might add easy vegetables like cucumbers if time allows. 

This is just a quick update as everything is in an ‘inbetween stage’ right now. In a few months, there’ll be a lot more to show.

In this article, we’ll go through some easy at-home fertilizers you can make that are more environmentally friendly than most commercial options and can be more affordable, too.

What Do Fertilizers Do?

Fertilizers are food for plants: they provide nutrients for them to grow and thrive. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three key fertilizer nutrients.

As a quick overview:

• Nitrogen: Promotes green, leafy growth and photosynthesis.
• Phosphorus: Supports root development, flowering, and fruiting.
• Potassium: Enhances overall plant health, disease resistance, and water retention.

These are classed as major nutrients.

The minor nutrients are calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. The micro-nutrients are: boron, copper, iron, manganese, zinc, chlorine, and cobalt in tiny amounts.

The availability of nutrients in your soil is partly linked to the pH, a measurement of acidity or alkalinity. If it is too high or too low, the nutrients may be locked up and not available to plants. Fertilizers are one way to correct this imbalance.

Fertilizer Cautions

Even homemade garden fertilizers, generally considered safer than synthetic fertilizers, can pollute waterways and the wider environment. Take care not to overapply. Additionally, store all products in a safe place and handle them responsibly; some ingredients can be harmful to skin or health in large quantities.

These homemade fertilizers are not ideal for indoor plants as they can mold the soil if there isn’t enough light or airflow.

Pre-Fertilizing

Before you start fertilizing, you should check how your soil is already. First, collect a soil sample and conduct a pH test. There are at-home kits for this, with varying reliability, but the best results can be obtained through your local university extension or local authority. Many businesses also offer pH testing.

Take samples from different areas of your yard because soil pH can vary even in small gardens.

For most vegetables, a soil pH between 6.2–6.8, or slightly acidic, is ideal. Many ornamentals and flowers prefer more alkaline conditions, while others can tolerate either. If your soil pH is very far away, you may need to amend your soil. Your university extension can advise you on this.

Second, make sure your soil is rich and healthy. Healthy, microorganism-rich soil is essential for proper nutrient uptake by plants. Quality compost is excellent, along with worm castings, shredded wood, coir, leaves, and properly sourced manure.

Compost Teas

You shouldn’t drink these teas, but your plants will love them. While organic matter is excellent for long, slower-release nutrients, steeping the matter in water creates a liquid version that your plants can absorb more quickly. Here are some recipes.

Note: All these recipes work great with collected rainwater for extra eco-points!

Manure Tea

Aged manure is available in most garden centers, or if you know a local farmer/rancher, you may be able to get some there. In a large bucket (probably at the back of your garden, as this can smell a bit), mix manure and water in a 1:2 ratio (fill the bucket about ⅓ full of manure, and ⅔ full of water). Stir well, and leave to steep for a few days, stirring every day.

Once steeped (the liquid should be a medium brown), separate the liquid into a separate container. Add the solids to your compost pile, and water your plants with a diluted tea mix once a week. Dilute the tea to the color of ‘iced tea’ when you water, as full strength will overwhelm your plants.

Wear gloves when working with manure.

Weed Tea

Weeds are a constant menace, but many are nutrient hoarders and fixers, and make excellent fertilizer. You want weeds that have not gone to seed and that have not been sprayed with chemicals. Top picks for nutrient-dense weeds are chickweed, dandelions, alfalfa, stinging nettles, yarrow, purslane, and wild fennel.

Put your collected weeds into a bucket, fill with water, and let sit until the water has turned brown/black and begins to smell (a few days to a few weeks). You should cover the bucket during this time to speed up the process. Separate the mixture, and then water your plants with a diluted mix, this time a little lighter than iced tea.

Weed tea can also be used as foliar (leaf) feed if you dilute it further. Apply sparingly.

Eggshell Tea

Ah, eggshells, the calcium-rich item that takes so long to break down in your compost. Making boiled tea unlocks the calcium much quicker.

With 10–20 clean eggshells, boil a gallon of water and add the eggshells to it. Turn off the heat and let the mix cool overnight. The following morning, strain the mix and add the eggshells to your compost. The eggshell water can then be applied weekly to your garden as is, no dilution necessary. Tomatoes and cruciferous greens will love this mix.

Veg Tea

This is one of my favorites, as it reduces water waste, too. The next time you cook up some vegetables on your stovetop (whether steaming or boiling), save the water! This (unsalted) water is infused with nutrients that can be used to fertilize your houseplants and garden plants. You can water your plants with it as normal.

Bonus Recipe: You can also save your vegetable peelings (looking at you, potatoes) in a bag or small bucket, boil them in water, and allow them to cool and steep overnight, just as you did for the eggshells. Strain, and water your plants with the liquid.

Be sure the vegetables are organic or haven’t been sprayed with pesticides.

The final few recipes are non-compost tea options.

Molasses

Good for more than just baking or stirring into hot drinks, molasses is incredibly nutrient-rich. You’ll want unsulfured, blackstrap molasses (or just blackstrap if you can’t find unsulfured) for this easy fertilizer, which is as easy as mixing 1–3 tablespoons of molasses into a gallon of water and watering your plants with it.

Molasses with sulfur should be applied in lesser amounts to prevent over-sulfuring the soil.

Coffee and Tea

Leftover coffee grounds and teabags can be used one more time before you throw them away or compost them.

Coffee grounds are very acidic, so they should be used in moderation, although ericaceous plants (acidic soil-loving) and vegetables (but not tomatoes) will benefit from them. You can sprinkle it on the top of the soil around plants to gently enrich the soil with nitrogen.

Alternatively, coffee grounds can be steeped to form a weak coffee mix, which can be used to water your plants once a week.

For tea, you can remove the tea leaves from the bag and mix them into your compost (the bags often have microplastics) or steep the bag further, and use the weak tea mixture to water your plants once a week.

Seaweed and Kelp

This is perfect if you live near the coast, especially the north-eastern USA, or the UK. You can collect seaweed from permissible places on the coast, or buy it if you’d prefer. To prepare the seaweed, rinse it well to remove sand and salt, and then leave to dry out a little in the sun to kill any bacteria.

The quickest way to help your plants absorb the nutrients is to create a liquid fertilizer by soaking the seaweed or kelp in a bucket for 1–3 weeks. The seaweed can either be removed or blended into the mix with an old food processor. Strain the liquid and apply to the topsoil no more than twice a week. You can also use a diluted mix in a spray bottle as a foliar spray.

When to Apply Fertilizer

Fertilizers are best applied in the early morning when the sun is coming up. High temperatures and intense sun restrict nutrient take-up and can sometimes cause fertilizer burn if it’s accidentally over-applied.

Apply fertilizer during key growth seasons when the plant is actively growing for best results, though this can vary depending on the plant. Roses are much more fickle, and many appreciate year-round nourishment.

It’s important not to apply too much fertilizer at once, or too many different types. A ‘less is more’ approach is a good way to start, increasing doses as necessary. Test your soil pH periodically (once a season is a good start) to check how your soil is changing. Remember to add nutrients to your soil with compost and other organic materials throughout the year.

Final Thoughts

Homemade fertilizers are an affordable, sustainable way to boost your garden’s health. By tuning into your soil’s needs and using what you already have in your kitchen or backyard, you can nourish your plants naturally while reducing waste and protecting the environment.

In this article, we’ll go over some of the key issues they’re facing, how your garden can help them to thrive, and what they’ll do for you in return.

Who Are the Native Bees?

Honeybees are now a common sight across the world, and while they are incredibly important—producing honey and pollinating crops—they aren’t the whole story.

Most native bees are solitary and produce neither honey nor beeswax. As such, they are considerably less aggressive than honey bees, who are actively defending themselves and their hive.

Some key native bee species across the globe are: mason bees, leafcutter bees, bumblebees, and carpenter bees (but there are over 20,000 total!)

As native bees evolved with native plants, they are more effective pollinators. Mason bees, for example, pollinate 95% of the plants they visit, which is far greater than the average 55% for honeybees. A single mason bee can also pollinate as many flowers as 100 honeybees because they carry pollen on their underside as opposed to just their legs. 

Why Do the Bees Need Help?

Pesticides, loss of habitat, and ecosystem fragmentation are major drivers in lower bee numbers. Additionally, too many non-native species affect the availability of their preferred, or sometimes essential, food source or habitat condition. Increasing numbers of invasive animals and insects are problematic, too, as is the changing climate across the world. 

Creating Habitat

Habitat is key for any species, and cities and neighborhoods have fragmented ecosystems. We can, however, bridge the gap. 

Depending on the species, nesting sites may be in undisturbed ground, decaying wood, or small sheltered spaces. You can create all of these in your garden, with natural materials or by making ‘houses’ for them.

Bare Ground

Ground-nesting bees generally prefer sunny spots with a gentle slope. This helps them survive heavy rains. Soft, sandy-loam soil is key, too, so if you have heavy clay or very silty soil, you can amend a small area. The soft soil makes it easier for the bees to dig, while still providing enough structural integrity. 

What that looks like will vary depending on where you live. In deserts, this may mean sandy washes or dry slopes; in temperate regions, a small cleared patch of sandy loam works well; and in wetter rainforest climates, a slightly raised mound can prevent nests from flooding.

The area should be free of large vegetation, as they prefer exposed soil. Bunch grasses can be good to prevent soil erosion, and you can add gravel and small rocks too. Flowers nearby are helpful for a food source, especially if they’re native.

It’s important to till and disturb the soil in this area as little as possible. Once you’re set up, you’re ready to go. Light weeding will keep the area clear, and the bees should hopefully arrive.

Wood

This is a general term, and many ‘wood’ nesting bees will also make their homes in large-stemmed plants such as old hydrangeas and raspberries. The key is anything that is round-shaped and large enough that it can fit in, without being too large.

Piles of brush are also great habitat, along with shrub and hedge clippings, yearly tree prunings, and old stumps and larger branches. You can also gather old hollow bamboo canes, reeds, and other similar plants and pile them up. South-east facing is generally preferred so they catch enough sun but don’t overheat.

In dry desert regions, bees may use hollow agave stalks or yucca stems; in temperate woodlands, old orchard prunings or fallen logs provide perfect shelter; in rainforest regions, decaying logs and mossy branches are especially valuable.

You can also make your own nesting sites using a block of untreated wood. You can check with your local university extension to find what size holes are best for wood nesting bees; however, holes drilled 3/32–3/8 inch in diameter and 4–6 inches deep cover most bees. The holes should be smooth, and a ‘roof’ that overhangs the front is very beneficial in helping them survive rainstorms.

Sheltered Spaces

These bees overlap with wood nesting bees quite a bit, and many will make a home in a drilled bee-block, in decaying raspberry canes, and more. However, you can also create more spaces for them to make their home. 

Piles of leaves and brush are helpful, as are small piles of rocks that have lots of crevices. Bees seek out these dry, sheltered areas. 

Beyond nesting, bees also need reliable food and water sources to thrive.

Food and Water

A variety of native flowers will provide time-of-year-accurate food sources for your bees, and you can match the plants to the bees through your local university extension or many online resources. Most native flowering plants will attract native bees, and many university extension services have data sheets on native bees and the plants they frequent. 

Finally, shallow pools of water will provide spaces to drink. The dish or pool should have plenty of rocks that the bees can land on and climb onto, should they fall in. Line the base with pebbles and add a few taller stones for safe landing spots. A dish less than ½ inch deep is perfect, as it mimics woodland rain pools and the edges of shallow streams.

In drier climates, place dishes in the shade to slow evaporation; in cooler, wetter climates, a sunny placement keeps water warm enough for bee activity.

Provide water in both sunny and shaded areas, too, and refill every few days. 

Bee-friendly Plantings

The right mix of plants also depends on your region. The first step in supporting native bees is to plant large numbers of the same types of flowers or flowering plants in mass plantings. Bees love to conserve energy, and when they find a plant they like, they’ll keep coming back to it. Try to plant at least three of a plant together, unless it’s a large shrub or similar, so there are plenty of blooms together.

Plan groups that flower at slightly different intervals, too, some very early flowering plants, and some late summer ones, so there is a food source available throughout the year.

For example, desert gardeners might stagger cactus and spring wildflowers; temperate gardeners can mix early bulbs with summer perennials; rainforest gardeners can layer berry bushes with late-season woodland blooms; and in Australia, staggered grevillea or eucalyptus varieties can provide nectar almost year-round.

If you’re unsure about what native flowers are best for your area, local gardening groups and your local university extension have a wealth of information for you.

Benefits for You

Having friendly bees in your garden will help all of your plants, from the smallest flowers to your largest trees, to grow. Native bees are also an indicator species, indirectly supporting insects and bugs that help keep out invasive species by fostering a healthy habitat.

Native bees will also increase the pollination of your plants, both because many of them emerge earlier in the season than introduced bees and because they’re often more efficient pollinators. Additionally — and I think this is rather cool — many native bees vibrate at different frequencies from honeybees, which helps certain plants (tomatoes are a great example) release pollen more effectively.

Plus, you get to see all kinds of fun bees. Did you know that there are metallic green bees? Iridescent black bees? There are so, so many out there, and I could talk all day about bees because I love them so much. 

Try leaving just one corner of bare soil, planting a cluster of native flowers, or setting out a shallow dish of water this week — and watch how quickly the bees find you.

A helpful link for creating bee habitat: Nests for Native Bees | Xerces Society

Leaf Litter

Mesquites, Palo Verdes, and Acacias all produce a lot of litter: leaves, seed pods, bark shavings, and more. It’s a lot to clean up. This year, I’ve started raking it around the trees instead, and I’ve seen a few benefits.

First, I’ve noticed less wilt on the younger trees, which are more susceptible to sun scald. They’re looking healthier and have a greener canopy.

Second, the ground is cooler beneath the litter layer by around 5 degrees Fahrenheit, which helps to alleviate heat stress.

Third, and most importantly to me, is the increase in wildlife I’ve seen. By my best estimates, there are twice as many lizards in the garden this year now that there are more places to hide during the day. This is excellent as they help to keep down small garden bugs and spiders. Lizards are also fun to watch; they scamper across the dirt incredibly quickly, and do ‘push-ups’ to mark their territory. I’ve also seen a lot more moths this year, and a couple more butterflies.

Flowers

Because Tucson has mild winters, many annuals can be grown as perennials. I took advantage of some heavily discounted vinca last August, and while they struggled through the end of last year’s summer, they have done exceptionally well this year. 

I’ve also introduced some more native flowers: salvia, beebalm, coreopsis, and goldenrod. They also struggled a bit this year, but with some supplemental watering and some shade screens, they’ve settled in and should grow much better next year.

Another nice success has been with a wisteria plant. It’s grown around 2ft this year so far, and I’m hoping I’ll see some blooms before the year is through. It’s being grown to eventually wind around a pergola area to provide natural shade, though that’s a few years away.

Veg

I knew I’d be travelling a lot this year, so I kept it simple. I had great success with tomatoes this year, which grew wonderfully fast because of the warm spring weather. Jalapenos were another hit success, though sadly, it was simply too hot for the bell peppers, which regularly wilted, despite continued efforts to save them.

Cactus

Take a cutting from a cactus, dry it out for a couple of days, and stick it in the ground, and it’ll grow! I did just that this year, with a success rate of around 75%. I’m very happy with that. I’ve also transplanted a couple of dozen agave pups, which almost all survived. The dry winter and spring were not very helpful, so many of the cacti wilted back.

Seedlings

This year, I also attempted to grow Loofah. I started with 16 seeds, which I grew in two stages. The first 8 I planted directly outside in my newly dug and amended sunken garden bed in mid-spring. These were all devoured by the cardinals. 

I started the next batch inside to great success using the damp paper towel method. Once they were in pots and had grown to around an inch tall, I began hardening them off so I could keep them in pots outside, as the weather was quickly becoming blisteringly hot.

All but one were snaffled while I was at work. The remaining one now lives inside and is doing very well. 

I also tried to grow amaranth, and they all suffered the same fate as the loofah. 

I’m also growing some native grasses and some Jewels of Opar from seed, both of which are very healthy and will be planted outside next year, or mid-Fall if they are ready.

Wrapping Up

It’s been a fun yet challenging growing year so far. With summer halfway through, I’m starting to think about my September plantings that’ll grow in time before the light frosts of December. Not all of my plants made it, but the wildlife has had a field day, and that’s good enough for me.

But step into a wild woodland, meadow, or desert wash, and you’ll notice something different: there’s litter. Twigs, seed pods, spent blooms, and fallen leaves carpet the ground. This mess isn’t neglect—it’s nature’s way of building resilience.

Leaving organic litter in your garden—what we might normally clean up—supports essential soil organisms, encourages natural pest control, and promotes long-term fertility. Below, we’ll explore why letting things lie can be one of the best choices for your plants, pollinators, and the planet, and I’ll show you some of the things I’m doing in my garden.

Decaying Wood

If you have trees or shrubs in your garden, chances are you prune them once a year or so. Instead of removing all the cut branches, consider leaving some of those stems—or even a few larger limbs—on the ground or tucked into a corner of the garden. Cut them down to a size that’s manageable for you.

Decaying wood acts as a slow-release fertilizer, gradually returning valuable nutrients like carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorus to the soil. As fungi and microbes break it down, they help convert locked-up nutrients into forms that plants can use—a natural form of nutrient cycling that keeps your garden’s ecosystem self-sustaining.

As it decomposes, wood also improves soil structure by increasing porosity and helping with moisture retention. After rainfall, rotting logs and branches can hold onto water, keeping the surrounding soil damp for longer.

Just as importantly, decaying wood provides habitat. Insects, fungi, mosses, and sometimes even birds rely on it for food and shelter. These organisms are part of a vibrant underground and surface ecosystem that supports plant health and keeps your soil biologically active.

Leaf Litter

Leaves are plentiful in most gardens. Trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables, and more all have them. Over the year, some get munched by insects, many fall off, and more get trimmed. It’s easy to clear these away as you’re trimming, and with some plants like tomatoes and roses, this is the best option as you want the base of the plant to be exposed to the air, as they’re very susceptible to disease. 

Many flowers, such as hydrangeas, benefit from their leaf litter as it helps to regulate soil pH and moisture. Hostas, which are a favorite delicacy for slugs, benefit massively from leaf litter as the drier surface deters them and provides habitat for predatory beetles.

Leaf litter also decays into the soil, returning key nutrients, can be used as mulch, and is perfect for insulating plants against cold weather. 

Organic Litter for Self Seeders

I adore self-seeding annuals. Flowers like cosmos, calendula, and alyssum create a vibrant show of color. As their seeding is often sporadic, it’s beneficial to give them the best chance possible for the seeds to take. A layer of organic litter, leaves, petals, and more provides somewhere for the seeds to fall and stay sheltered. Over the winter, as the litter layer decays, it provides the nutrients and moisture for the seeds to germinate plentifully the next year.

Leaving Flower Heads

It’s more than a little tempting to snip off dead flowers as soon as they’re done to maintain a tidy garden bed (I’m often quick to do this). However, if there is a time not to do it, it’s fall. 

As winter approaches, animals of all kinds are looking for nourishment, and flower heads are great for birds, insects, and even small mice. Leaving them for a few days gives nature the chance to use them. You might also cut them down and leave them to decay around where they grew, or leave them standing over the winter and cut them down in the spring. Frosty stems can look quite beautiful. 

Some flowers, such as bee balm, are excellent overwintering spots for native solitary bees, and leaving leaf litter can provide additional warmth. 

Keeping the Litter Tidy

Leaving organic litter in your garden doesn’t mean it has to look messy. You can still create a beautiful, neat, and tended-to garden while implementing some of these strategies.

Shapes are good visual breakers. Raking leaf litter into piles around shrubs, or into small ‘compost areas’ provides definition. You might also mix in your garden litter with store-bought bark mulch for a neater look.

Heavier, denser plants such as Dahlias will hide leaf litter better than open plants such as Rudbeckia, so you can tailor this to suit your garden. 

When and How to Clean Up (if needed)

While leaving organic matter in the garden is often beneficial, there are times when a bit of cleanup is necessary to maintain plant health and balance. The key is knowing when you’re helping the ecosystem—and when you’re unintentionally hindering it.

1. To Reduce Disease Pressure Some plants, like tomatoes, roses, and peonies, are especially prone to fungal diseases and benefit from a tidier base. Removing diseased foliage, spent flowers, or stems can prevent the spread of pathogens from year to year. Always discard infected material—don’t compost it unless your compost gets hot enough to kill pathogens (many home piles don’t).

2. After Pest Infestations If you’ve had a heavy infestation of aphids, caterpillars, or beetles, it can be helpful to clear away some of the affected plant matter. This reduces the number of overwintering sites and breaks the pest’s lifecycle. You don’t need to strip the bed bare, but a thoughtful tidy-up around troubled plants can set the stage for a better spring.

3. To Prep Annual Beds When rotating crops or replanting flower beds, removing the bulk of spent annuals may be helpful, especially if you’re planting seeds or young transplants that need light and space. In this case, consider chopping old stems and layering them over other areas of the garden instead of hauling everything to the bin. That way, you’re still recycling the nutrients.

4. To Make Room for Spring Growth Early spring is one of the best times to gently clear paths, remove mats of soggy leaves from the crowns of perennials, and thin out overgrown mulch. This allows emerging shoots to develop while still retaining the protective benefits of litter, particularly water retention and frost protection, elsewhere.

5. Mind the Seasons
Fall (autumn) is often the time to let things lie. Insects lay eggs in dead stems, frogs tuck into leaf piles, and beneficial beetles nest beneath bark. Winter landscapes don’t need to be bare—they can be layered, textured, and alive with sheltering creatures.

Guiding Principle: Think mosaic, not monoculture. You don’t have to leave everything or clean up everything. A mix of tidy and wild spaces—what some call “messy gardening with intent”—can offer the best of both worlds: healthy plants and thriving wildlife.

A Look at What I’m Doing

My current yard has a lot of trees. The bloom season in Arizona is plentiful, and they all fall to the ground quickly when the summer heat comes in. I’ve raked this detritus into a ring around the trees, making sure the root flare is left exposed to the air around the trunk, which will help the soil hold water and return nutrients. 

It’s been hot the past few years, so some cacti are struggling. Cacti don’t love damp soil, so I’m using leaves to cover the surface around them to lower the soil temperatures. Leaves dry out quickly here after rain, so this will prevent rot and decay from affecting the cacti.

Where I work has numerous ornamental oleanders. Instead of removing the cut leaves after I shape them, I sweep them out of sight under the shrubs. They’ve been growing more prolifically than ever now that the soil holds moisture better, and the number of lizards that call them home has increased, who in turn snack on the bugs

Final Thoughts: Let a Little Litter Lie

Gardens don’t need to be pristine to be beautiful—or thriving. In fact, by letting a little organic litter remain, you’re doing far more than saving yourself a cleanup. You’re building soil health, conserving moisture, cycling nutrients, and offering habitat to countless small but essential creatures.

Whether it’s a ring of leaves beneath a tree, a log tucked into a shady corner, or flower heads left standing through winter, these small choices invite life back into the garden. They make your space more resilient, more dynamic, and more deeply connected to the natural world.

So the next time you’re tempted to tidy, ask: could this “mess” be doing some good? Odds are, it already is.

Many plants — beans, tomatoes, peas, and more — grow best with support. Trellises and supports can add up in cost, and it’s not always easy to find the right one. Here we’ll run through some tips and ideas for using woody plant cuttings (and plants themselves) as growing supports.

If you don’t have any trees or shrubs in your garden, consider asking a neighbour or friend. Don’t cut back any plants without permission. Additionally, bamboo garden canes can be bought from most hardware stores, and work well too.

Living Trellis vs Woody Cuttings

Living trellises are a clever and space-saving way to grow more vertically. This technique is a form of companion planting, where one plant is a structural aid to another. Here are a few common and effective pairings:

• Pole beans climbing up sunflowers or corn
• Malabar spinach using cane raspberries for support
• Garden peas twining up amaranth

These pairings won’t compete, as long as the support plant is mature enough when the climber starts growing in earnest. Careful timing is key — planting schedules should be adjusted so both plants thrive.

While live plant pairings offer dynamic, seasonal support, woody cuttings provide a reusable and customizable alternative. They also offer a lot of flexibility for gardeners. Unlike live plants, they can be arranged however you like, trimmed to shape, and won’t be affected by seasonal die-back, pests, or unexpected weather.

As a rule of thumb, cuttings should be at least pencil-thick and sturdier for heavier climbers like indeterminate tomatoes or cucumbers.

As we walk through this article, we’ll dive into more specifics for each method.

How to Make the Most of Live Supports

To use a live support successfully, plant your support crop first — ideally 2 to 3 weeks before the climber. For example, sow corn or sunflowers early so they’ve established strong stems by the time beans begin to climb. Choose upright, sturdy varieties (e.g., sunflowers with thick stalks or corn types known for their height). Be mindful of spacing: give each plant enough room to avoid overcrowding, especially since both will need sunlight and root space.

Gently guide young vines toward the support as they grow, using twine if needed. Avoid pulling or forcing stems; most climbers will naturally twine once they find a vertical surface.

Best Plants for Trellis Cuttings

Some plants stand out for their strength and flexibility:

• Willow – One of the best. Fast-growing, bendable, and easy to weave. Willow can even be planted live to root into the soil and form a living trellis — just be sure to keep it pruned to prevent overgrowth.
• Dogwood – Also very flexible and great for weaving structures like cages or lattices.
• Other tree branches – Many hardwood tree prunings are suitable, as long as they’re healthy and structurally sound.

Before using any cuttings, ask:

• Is it diseased or pest-damaged?
• Is it too brittle or prone to snapping?
• Do I want this to root, or stay inert? (Some cuttings might sprout if planted.)

When to Harvest and How Long They Last

Woody cuttings are best harvested in late winter or early spring, when many trees and shrubs are dormant. This is also when annual pruning takes place — a perfect time to save useful branches. Most untreated cuttings will last one growing season if exposed to the elements. For longer use, store them in a dry shed or garage over winter, and let them fully dry before stacking to avoid rot.

How to Prepare and Use Woody Cuttings

Once you’ve selected sturdy, healthy branches, it’s time to turn them into supports. First, trim off any small side branches and leaves. Cut the base of each stake at an angle — this makes it easier to push into the soil. If your soil is compacted or clay-heavy, pre-dig holes with a trowel or metal rod before placing your cuttings.

Woody stakes should be inserted deep enough to resist wind and the weight of the plant. At least 3-4 inches is good, although this depends on the height of the cutting and the type of plant it will support. For tall or heavy plants like indeterminate tomatoes, deeper anchoring or cross-bracing may be necessary.

Some woods, like willow or poplar, may start to root when pushed into moist soil. This can be a benefit if you want a living trellis, but a drawback if you’re using it in a confined space. If you don’t want the cutting to root, let it dry out before you use it, or strip the bark from the bottom portion.

Once your plants begin to grow, you can gently tease them to grow up your support. Garden twine, or jute, is excellent for this. I love using natural jute as it will compost into the soil once it’s no longer usable.

Simple Structures to Try

Using woody cuttings, you can build a surprising variety of structures with minimal tools. Here are a few beginner-friendly ideas:

Tent Frames: Tent supports are perfect for climbing beans, peas, or even flowering vines. Gather 3–6 similar-length branches and tie them together in a pyramid-like formation at the top with garden twine or jute. Fan the bases evenly and press them firmly into the soil. You can add horizontal cross braces too, if needed. Tents are especially helpful in small gardens or raised beds, as they create vertical growing space without crowding.

A-Frames and Ladders: Form two branches into a wide ‘A’ shape, or place them parallel, and connect them with horizontal rungs using smaller twigs and twine. This type of structure can be leaned over a bed or stood upright like a ladder. It works well for cucumbers or smaller squash varieties and can be adapted in size depending on your available cuttings. 

Woven Panels: If you have flexible branches like willow or dogwood, try weaving them horizontally between upright stakes to create a rustic lattice. These panels can support sweet peas, nasturtiums, or even leafy crops like chard when positioned as a backdrop. You can also use woven panels to edge off a bed or provide shade for tender seedlings. Typically, you’ll need at least 5-7 upright poles for good rigidity, with as many crossmembers as you’d like. Trailing vine plants will appreciate larger gaps for example.

Single-Stake Supports: For tomatoes, peppers, or single-stem sunflowers, simple upright stakes work well. Just be sure the branch is thick and long enough to support mature growth — 3 to 4 feet above ground is a good target.

Cages: Take four sturdy sticks, at least 6 inches taller than your plants will grow, and stake them around your plant at a width suitable for its size. Using twine or willow, create rungs around the cage. To keep the rungs tight, loop around each stake and then twist or tie the loose end firmly.

These structures not only save money and reduce waste but also add a handmade, natural charm to the garden that fits right in with an organic or cottage-style aesthetic.

Caring for Your DIY Supports

Woody cuttings, like any garden structure, need occasional maintenance. Check them regularly throughout the season — especially after storms — to make sure they’re still stable, haven’t shifted in the soil, and haven’t started to break. Re-tie loose joints or replace any pieces that have started to rot or snap.

At the end of the season, you can compost smaller branches or store the sturdiest pieces for reuse next year. If you’re using live supports like sunflowers or corn, simply cut them back after harvest, and plan your planting calendar for the following season with new pairings in mind.

What I love most about making my own trellises is the imperfectness of it all. It’s also really fun and helps reduce waste and plastic in the garden.

I hope you have fun making your own as well.

This flower bed is best suited for zones 6-8 (with some wiggle room on either side), and is based on two garden beds I grew a few years ago in the UK. Now that I’m in the Desert Southwest, this layout isn’t so practical for me anymore—but it’s perfect for many of you!

The Plant List

This plan uses six pollinator-friendly favorites, chosen for height variation, texture, and bloom time. All of these are available in the Planter App too:

• Dahlia – Tall, dramatic blooms in late summer to fall. Great focal points with vibrant, full color.
• Snapdragon – Upright early bloomers that bring vertical structure. Excellent for bees, and a good contrast to the looser growth habits of the other plants.
• Bee Balm (Monarda) – A favorite of bees and hummingbirds. Mid-season bloomers with bold texture and striking, unusual flower shapes.
• Cosmos – Airy foliage and daisy-like flowers that bloom all summer. Great for filling in gaps in the display.
• Alyssum – Low-growing and fragrant, ideal for softening edges. Looks lovely when allowed to spill gently over borders and into neighboring zones.
• Nasturtium – Edible, trailing blooms that add color and charm.

Together, these plants will support bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds (if they’re around where you live) across the season, with vibrant blooms across the bed from early Spring to late Fall.

The Layout

The Planter App works in squares, which is excellent for most garden plans. However, curves often work better when it comes to flower beds, helping the display feel natural and unified. This design uses three main zones:

1. Tall show plants – Dahlias and snapdragons primarily occupy the back of the bed, so they don’t overshadow the others.
2. Medium-height massing plants – Cosmos and bee balm help create a smooth transition with lots of texture and interest.
3. Low, trailing plants – Alyssum and nasturtiums fill the front. You could also add marigolds here for more color.

I like to mark up my designs (this one was done in MS Paint) to visualize how plants will overlap and where the curves will be. I’ve aimed for plenty of overlap at the front to form a carpet that helps suppress weeds and hides bare stems that appear later on taller plants like cosmos and bee balm.

This can also be done using paper and pencil, which is generally my preferred method.

Design Principles

Rather than scattering individual plants, this design uses clusters, which offer several advantages:

• You’re less dependent on one plant thriving.
• Transitions between zones look smoother.
• Blooms make more visual impact in groups.

Key details:

• Snapdragons are placed in mirrored sets of four, anchoring both ends and the center.
• Cosmos and Alyssum are repeated throughout the bed, tying everything together.
• Nasturtiums are staggered in three bold patches, balancing structure with a bit of whimsy.

This approach avoids what can become a chaotic look by grouping plants by height, spacing out bloom times, and varying color just enough. Keep in mind, though, that some controlled chaos can work wonderfully too! You can balance the look and feel of your flower bed to your tastes!

You can mix and match color palettes for most of these plants. I lean toward a mix of pinks, reds, and oranges, with white Alyssum. This design would also work wonderfully with a varied blend of colors throughout; it’s very flexible.

Symmetry and Flow

The layout has a mirrored structure, which helps guide the eye across the bed and gives it an intentional, restful feel, even when it’s bursting with blooms.

• Snapdragons bloom early.
• Cosmos and Bee Balm take over in midsummer.
• Dahlias bring the season to a grand finale.
• Nasturtiums and Alyssum offer continuous color and scent with minimal effort.

Layering bloom times means there’s always something happening in the bed. And if you keep up with deadheading, many of these plants will bloom more than once.

The symmetry here is almost—but not perfectly—balanced. That’s intentional. Perfect symmetry can feel stiff, and if one plant fails, it becomes obvious. Slight variation helps the design feel natural.

Plant Numbers

With flowers, you have a little more wiggle room than with vegetables, in terms of space. I always plant more than I need so I can adjust as things grow (or don’t). Here’s what I’m planning for this bed:

• Dahlias: 4-6
• Bee Balm: 4–5
• Cosmos: 6–8
• Nasturtiums: 5-10 (size varies a lot)
• Alyssum: 16-18
• Snapdragons: Same as the original plan

Since I’m starting from seed (and tubers for the dahlias), some loss and thinning are expected. The key to flower gardening is flexibility—you can always thin or expand a patch if something doesn’t thrive.

Tips For Success

• Staking: Dahlias and Cosmos may need support midseason.
• Thinning: Bee Balm can get mildew if crowded. Improve airflow by removing a few plants if needed.
• Deadheading: Keep Alyssum, Cosmos, and Snapdragons blooming by removing spent flowers.

Feeding: Nasturtiums prefer poor soil and minimal feeding. Dahlias, on the other hand, are heavy feeders.

Adapting This for Your Garden

This style of layering and massing works in beds of any size, though smaller beds benefit from fewer large plants. In this 4×8, I’ve included three tall species: dahlia, bee balm, and snapdragon, which might be too much for, say, a 2×4 ft bed.

For a smaller version, you could:

• Keep the Alyssum and Nasturtium at the front.
• Mix Bee Balm and Cosmos together more densely.
• Add 4–5 scattered Snapdragons to break up the display.

Or

• Offset five Dahlias in a staggered pattern. 
• Fill in with Alyssum and Marigolds at the front.
• Fill in with Snapdragons at the rear.

For larger and/or longer beds, try extending the central massing of Bee Balm and Cosmos into a broader wave or repeating the Snapdragon/Dahlia anchor at intervals to create rhythm across the space. Long borders do well with layered depth—taller plants in the back, of course, but also repeating colors or shapes to tie the space together.

Don’t be afraid to get out some pencils and paper. Sketch out designs and get a feel for the space; a small bed can accommodate a lot of flowers.

Wrapping Up

This 4×8 design shows how even a modest flower bed can feel lush, layered, and pollinator-friendly. With attention to grouping, height, and bloom timing, you can create a garden that feels both abundant and thoughtfully composed—one that thrives even if a few surprises pop up.

In this final article, we’ll explore ways to manage yields, store food and herbs, and offer tips for gardening in tight spaces. We’ll also discuss planting strategies, storage techniques, and ways to keep your harvest fresh longer, whether you’re in a small apartment, a large backyard, or somewhere in between.

Eating Fresh vs Storing

It’s important to consider how you’ll use your harvest. As mentioned in the earlier parts of this series, staggering your planting dates and growing multiple varieties can help ensure a consistent supply of fresh produce throughout the season. This works especially well for tender crops like lettuce that have a short storage life and don’t freeze well.

Many herbs can be dried, and vegetables like carrots and onions can be chopped and frozen—or stored fresh—for cooking year-round. Canning is also a great way to preserve crops such as beetroot and tomatoes.

Helpful Guides:

• Storing Herbs - by Samantha
• A Guide to Canning - by Jessalyn
• Storing Veg (without a root cellar) - by Jared

Storing produce over the winter means growing more at the right time. If you live in a cold climate, remember that food consumption typically rises during the winter months (around 10-30%), so if your goal is to be self-sufficient from your garden, this is an important consideration.

Staggered Planting and Storage

Let’s use carrots as an example.

In the garden bed, I have 1 3ft row of carrots planned. They’re planted next to beans and onions, which are companion plants, so they can share nutrients, and keep pests and diseases to a minimum, which should give a better harvest. The carrots are eventually replaced by kale, which can overwinter and handle the cold weather better.

To plan how much to plant, I created a table:

With the Planter app, you can easily map out your garden and ensure proper spacing between plants. The app suggests planting 16 Danvers per square foot–up to 48 per 3ft row (3 ft x 1 ft)– helping you optimize your garden space for healthy growth.

Small Spaces

If you’re short on space, container gardening is a powerful solution. Pots work well on balconies, patios, or anywhere with limited ground. Many herbs, alliums, and even compact vegetables thrive in containers.

With some care and attention, many crops—from potatoes to strawberries—can thrive in pots. Container gardening also gives you the freedom to get creative with layering and plant combinations. Since space and nutrients are limited, choosing good companion plants is especially important.

A few 10-gallon pots on a balcony or patio can yield a surprisingly generous harvest, especially with succession planting. For example, you could start with a quick crop of green onions or chives, then transplant strawberries into the same pot once the first crop is harvested.

Overwintering Crops

Some crops can survive the winter and start producing again early the next season. Others, like garlic, are planted in the fall and harvested the following summer. Cold-hardy vegetables like kale, spinach, and certain carrots can survive in the ground through frost, especially with a little protection like mulch or row covers. Overwintering gives you a head start on spring and makes the most of your space year-round. Just be sure to know your hardiness zone and choose varieties that can handle the cold in your area.

In this garden, everything except the Zinnia will overwinter quite nicely where I live. The turnips will also replenish a lot of soil nutrients and improve the health of the garden bed for the year to come.

The Other Plants in the Bed

We’ve discussed most of the plants in our example bed so far, and the ones we haven’t, follow the ideas we’ve discussed in this series.

• The onions are planted in succession for a longer harvest, and then replaced with zinnias
• The beans are a determinate variety; I prefer eating beans during cooler months, so one large harvest where I dry them all out is fine for me. These are then replaced with turnips for overwintering.
• The cucumbers will mature in mid-summer, and then be replaced with transplanted okra, which will handle the late summer and fall weather with no difficulty.

Yields

You may not know exactly how much to plant the first year, so keeping notes and logs is useful. Note what varieties grow well, how long they took to grow, how long they kept in the ground, stored in the fridge, etc., to help you carefully plan next year’s harvest. Additionally, you can estimate many varieties by looking at the per-plant yield. We’ve linked some good resources below to help you.

• Cornell Yield Guide
• Michigan State Extension
• UC Master Gardener Program
• Penn State Extension

Other Considerations

Crop Rotation

Planting the same crop in the same spot year after year depletes soil nutrients. Rotating crops helps maintain healthy soil and reduces pest issues. Use the Planter app to track what’s planted where and plan your rotations.

Determinate vs. Indeterminate

Determinate plants (like some tomatoes and beans) produce all at once—great for preserving, but potentially overwhelming. Indeterminate varieties yield steadily over time, ideal for fresh eating. Knowing the type helps you plan harvest timing and storage needs.

Recording Information

Tracking your garden’s performance helps you grow smarter each season. Key things to note:

• What worked (and didn’t): Which varieties thrived? Which ones struggled or weren’t worth the effort? 
• Yields vs. expectations: Did you get more or less than you thought? Were there any surprises? 
• Care needs: Which plants required the most attention, and were they worth it?
• Over– or under-planted: Did you grow too much of something? Not enough? 
• Pests, weather & timing: Jot down issues like late frosts, drought, or recurring pest problems, plus when each crop actually matured.

At the Harvest

There’s a lot to consider when planning how much to grow. It’s unlikely you’ll have a perfect garden your first year, but keeping track of everything will set you up for success.

Planting crops in succession, or staggering them by time or variety, can extend your harvest and give you plentiful amounts of produce throughout the year.

Whatever you choose to garden, remember to enjoy it.

Best of luck!

Many gardeners will plan one thing to grow in a row or an entire garden bed. However, with some careful planning, you can make use of the time before those plants go in and after you take them out.

This is the heart of succession planting: using the same space for multiple crops (the same plant, or different plants) over the course of the growing season. It’s not just for serious growers. Even a small garden can produce a surprising amount when the timing lines up.

Planting in Succession

Imagine that you want to grow peppers, a delicious warm-season crop. After checking the dates for your area, you realize you can’t plant them outside until quite late in the year due to frost, even though some plants can be started in February.

But that doesn’t mean the space has to sit empty. While you wait for warmer weather, you can use that garden bed for cool-season crops, which don’t mind a little frost. These early growers will be ready to harvest just in time to make room for your pepper transplants later on.

Here I decided to grow radish and spinach before transplanting the peppers later in the year. Using the same principles, the peppers are then replaced by leeks, which don’t mind the cooler fall weather.

Creating a table helped me visualize the dates for this succession planting, so that I knew all the plants would work together.

Planting in Waves

Some crops mature quickly and leave behind empty soil. Lettuce is a great example of this. Lettuce matures quickly and produces a lot from each plant. By staggering your plantings, you can have a steady harvest of lettuce throughout the growing season, instead of all at once.

Lettuce also keeps in the ground quite well, so you don’t have to harvest it all right away. Let’s look at a detailed example.

For my garden, I’ve planned one 3ft row of lettuce and have chosen three varieties, each with a slightly different taste and flavor profile. To plan exactly when to plant and when they’ll be ready to harvest, I created this table.

This will vary based on your location. If you live somewhere particularly wet, your lettuce might not keep for as long in the ground, or it might take longer to mature.

Planting Different Varieties

Some plants don’t offer the flexibility that lettuce does. Tomatoes, for example, have a long growing period before they mature, and need the cooler weather to get big enough before they fruit. If you want tomatoes all throughout the year, you can plant different varieties.

Cherry tomatoes typically ripen soonest, then medium-sized ‘slicer’ style tomatoes, with the larger tomatoes maturing the latest. Growing some of each will give you a plentiful supply and a good variety.

It’s important to remember how plants produce their harvest, too. Some plants are determinate and produce most of their harvest all at once. Indeterminate varieties will produce relatively consistently across the season after they mature. We’ll dive into this more a little later.

In this garden bed, we have three varieties being transplanted in April and one in June. This combination gives a staggered harvest across the summer and into the fall, with some excellent Long-Keepers that will store well into January in the right conditions.

Keeping the Soil Healthy

With staggered and successive planting, soil health can decline more quickly, but with some careful management, you can prevent this.

Focusing on companion plants helps balance nutrient depletion. For example, nitrogen-fixing plants like peas or beans can replenish the soil, while herbs like basil or marigolds can improve plant health and deter pests.

Adding small amounts of compost and fertilizer between plantings also keeps the soil healthy. Compost enriches the soil, improving moisture retention and nutrient supply, while a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can support heavy feeders.

Mulching is another simple yet effective strategy. It helps regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and reduce weeds. As mulch decomposes, it adds organic matter to the soil, further boosting its health.

With these strategies, your soil can remain vibrant and productive throughout the growing season, supporting your plants’ needs.

Almost There!

Hopefully, this has given you some great ideas on how to plan your garden. The final article in the series will discuss yields, considerations for your harvest, and other important considerations.

Let’s explore some thoughtful ways to decide what to plant, when to plant it, and how to shape your season around your needs.

What to Plant

Planning what to plant is as straightforward or as complicated as you would like, but the best garden is the one you’ll eat, or share the produce from. Start by thinking about:

• Your most-used fruits, vegetables, and herbs
• What you (and your family if applicable) enjoy eating
• What might be difficult/expensive to find in the store
• Things you’d like to try growing.

Then, check how well they’ll grow in your climate and space. While many plants can grow outside their native range with some care, be mindful of maintenance requirements such as water, sunlight, and temperature. This is a balancing act, and it’s essential to understand how these factors will affect your yields and how much time you’ll spend caring for them.

You don’t have to grow everything—just a few crops you’ll be happy to eat every week. Consider adding one or two new-to-you varieties for fun or flavor variety.

Using Planter to Visualize

Next, assess your available planting space and calculate how much you can grow. The Planter app can help you design your garden, show companion plants in the plant information section, and show compatibility on the main garden planning view. Begin by deciding on your must-haves. Maybe tomatoes or a selection of herbs are at the top of your list. Starting with large plants is also helpful, as smaller ones can easily fit into gaps between plantings.

Using the Planter app, you can easily log notes, track planting dates, and map out your garden layout. Some features, like plant notes (garden-wide notes are available to everyone), are available to Planter Premium subscribers. However, the free version still offers plenty of tools to help you plan a healthy, vibrant garden.

When to Plant

Start with your frost dates—you’ll find your average last frost in spring and first frost in fall using tools like the Planter app or your local extension office’s website. This will help you:

• Plan when to start seeds indoors
• Know when you can direct sow hardier crops
• Know how long your growing season is

Also note maturation times. If something takes 100 days to mature, you’ll need to get it started early enough to finish before cold weather returns.

Additionally, consider when your plants are ready to harvest. For example, you might plant carrots, tomatoes, and lettuce, which could all mature in the same week, leaving you with a lot of produce. Staggering your plantings or choosing a mix of varieties can spread out harvest time, giving you more time to enjoy your produce or prepare it for canning without feeling overwhelmed.

Where to Plant

Mapping out your garden is very helpful. Identify dry areas and wet areas, sunny areas and shaded areas. Many plants are forgiving of their growing environment, while others wilt with a little too much sun, or wither if they get too much shade.

You should also consider testing your soil. The most accurate test is to take soil samples to your local extension office (many will allow you to mail them in). Costs vary by your region; however, they give detailed results that can help you plan appropriate amendments for your garden.

Accounting for Loss

Not every seed you plant will grow, and not every plant will make it to maturity. Some seed packets have thinning instructions - lettuce, for example - to account for loss, while others do not. As a general guideline, most gardeners get an 80-85% success rate on their plants, although this varies by plant variety and growing location. Some plants are known to be fickle. Cauliflower, for example, needs a long, cooler growing season, and carrots are very particular about their soil.

As a general rule, the less plants are disturbed, the better. It’s disheartening when your carefully raised seedlings collapse just a few days after they’re moved into the main bed. Acclimating plants can minimize this. By keeping your indoor starts outside for a week (or a little more) before planting, you help the plant adjust to the windy, drier conditions outside in a process called hardening off.

(Read more about it here)

Getting Nitty Gritty

To illustrate the principles I’ll discuss in this series of articles, I’ll use two garden beds I designed on Planter (multiple gardens is a premium feature). The first is a 3x6 ft bed that serves as my ‘main’ garden bed. In this bed, I use different techniques to increase my harvest, from succession planting to staggered planting. I have four iterations of this planned out in the same bed plan, to remind me how it will change through the growing season. The second is my tomato bed, where I use different varieties to extend the harvest window. 

Closing Thoughts

Planning your garden is an art of imagination and attention. The more you align your choices with your actual habits—and let yourself adjust with the season—the more satisfying it becomes.

In the next article, we’ll look at how succession planting and variety selection can help you grow more with less space and effort.

But, just as you can get sunburned from too much exposure to the giant ball of gas in the sky, so can plants. Days with a high UV index and extended periods without clouds or rain can stress plants, causing sunscald, leaf burn, and dehydration. This is especially important in hotter, drier climates where intense sunlight and limited water availability make growing conditions more challenging. Some plants have adaptations, like waxy coatings or fuzzy leaves, to help protect against sun damage, but others may require shade or additional care to thrive.

Careful planning during pre-season and planting, with active management of your garden while it grows will keep your plants healthy throughout the growing season, no matter how sunny.

Types of Shade

We’ll classify shade into two types: natural and artificial. Neither is inherently better than the other, although artificial shade is often more adjustable to current conditions.

Natural shade is created through plants–especially trees and shrubs–which provide varying degrees of coverage as they grow. Deciduous trees offer seasonal shade, allowing more sunlight in early and late growing seasons when there is less sunlight while protecting plants from intense summer heat. Evergreen trees and dense shrubs create consistent, year-round shade. Vining plants on trellises and pergolas provide natural shade while enhancing airflow and cooling the soil, creating a dynamic microclimate.

Artificial shade includes shade cloths, pergolas, trellises, row covers, and garden umbrellas. These options offer immediate and adjustable coverage, making them ideal for protecting delicate plants from harsh sun exposure. While artificial shade may require occasional maintenance, such as adjusting placement or replacing worn materials, it allows for precise control over light levels–useful in regions with extreme temperatures.

Natural Shade

Trees

Deciduous trees lose and gain leaves with the seasons, providing shade when plants need it most. Plant them to block the sun from the south to the southwest without reducing winter light.

To prevent water competition, place them about ⅔ of their mature height away from garden beds. They take around five years to provide significant shade so temporary shading may be needed. However, their fallen leaves create natural mulch, which you can use to enrich the soil.

Fruit trees can be an excellent addition to your garden. Some plants can also be planted directly underneath them, allowing you to use more garden space. A favorite of mine is strawberries under apple trees; they do exceptionally well together.

Evergreens can be good for shade, but many are quite thin, so offer it in limited amounts. Additionally, if planted to shade from the south to the southwest, they will reduce your growing season by at least a few weeks.

Companion Planting for Shade:

Companion planting creates shade by pairing plants together. For example:

• Shade-loving vegetables: Plants like spinach, lettuce, and kale can grow well in shaded areas, particularly under taller crops like corn or trellised pole beans, which are far more tolerant of sun. Pairing these shade-loving vegetables with taller plants provides mutual benefits—taller plants create shade and lower-growing plants can help keep the soil cool and increase soil life. 
• Groundcovers: Groundcovers like creeping thyme or moss can spread quickly in shaded areas, acting as natural mulch. These plants also work well around trees or shrubs, reducing weeds and keeping the soil cool.
• Herbs in the shade: While many herbs prefer full sun, some, like mint, parsley, and cilantro, can thrive in partial shade. These can be grown in containers or at the base of taller plants to maximize space and create a layered effect in your garden.

Artificial Shade

Shade Cloth

Shade cloth, or shade fabric is a semi-opaque material that you can suspend over your plants to restrict the amount of light that reaches plants. It also filters it into a dispersed pattern, reducing sunburn risk; a common cause of brown, splotchy leaves. 

The density of shade cloth is an important consideration. Too much shade and plants will wilt. Many areas only need shade cloth during the height of summer, if at all. This table is a rough guide for many areas.

Shade cloth can be installed in a variety of ways. Using flexible canes you can create a tunnel over your plants, or the shade cloth can be installed like a wall along the south to southwest sides of the garden bed. Many gardeners also suspend shade cloth over their plants like a roof, leaving the sides open. 

Observing how sunlight hits your garden and the type of plants you grow will determine the best method for you. For example, tall plants are less suited to a tunnel shade and are better suited to overhead or wall shading.

Find some shade fabric options here: Amazon.com: Agfabric: Shade Cloth

Permanent Structures

Pergolas provide a sturdy frame above your garden. Climbing plants such as wisteria, grapevines, and passionflowers (find plants suited to your area) can provide dappled shade during the summer. Climbing wires can also be strung between pergola poles, assisting plants such as beans and tomatoes when they grow tall. 

Pergolas can be expensive but they are very adaptable. As well as plants, shade fabric can be attached to the structure, offering multiple types of shade.

Trellises are another permanent or semi-permanent option. Often smaller, they can be oriented along the sunniest side of the bed. They too provide a structure for climbing plants to grow on, and lattice structure still allows sunlight to filter through.

Creating Shade on a Budget

Many permanent structures such as pergolas and trellises can become expensive if your garden is large, and mulch can only do so much. You may already have some materials lying around that can offer a healthy amount of shade for your garden.

Old Bedsheets/covers

• White bedsheets, tablecloths, duvet covers, and similar fabrics can offer shade for your garden. The light color of the fabric is key and while not as effective as shade cloth, is a great way to reduce, and reuse what you already have.

Netting

• If you’re already using netting to stop rabbits, deer, birds, and insects, or you are considering it, netting is a good low-shade option, similar to 10% fabric. For many cooler environments, this amount of shade is sufficient for the average summer.

Find some netting options here: Amazon.com: Agfabric: Netting

Umbrellas

• Have an old patio umbrella lying around? Or one you’re still using? If shade isn’t a yearly necessity for your garden, patio umbrellas can be quickly moved to shade your garden on exceptionally hot and sunny days.

Mulching for Root Shade

While not overhead shade, mulch is crucial in shading plant roots, preventing soil from overheating and drying. Organic mulches like wood chips, straw, or compost act as insulators, keeping soil temperatures low and moisture levels consistent.

In warmer climates avoid dark mulches such as cedar as much as possible. Lighter mulches will trap less heat while retaining moisture and reducing plant stress.

Choosing the Right Shade for Your Garden

Planning the right shade for your garden is essential for keeping your plants healthy, reducing heat stress, and promoting growth throughout the growing season. Whether you opt for natural shade from trees, artificial shade from structures like pergolas or shade cloth, or a mix of both, understanding your climate and the specific needs of your plants is key. Companion planting can further enhance shaded areas by pairing plants with similar light and moisture requirements. By taking the time to assess your garden’s unique conditions and selecting the right shade solutions, you’ll create a resilient, thriving garden that flourishes, no matter the sun’s intensity.

The best type of shade for your garden depends on your climate, plant selection, and garden layout. In dry regions, shade cloth and mulch can significantly reduce heat stress. In temperate areas, deciduous trees or pergolas with vining plants can provide seasonal relief without blocking too much light year-round. Portable solutions like row covers and umbrellas allow gardeners to adapt as conditions change.

To get started, assess your garden’s sunlight exposure at different times of the day and experiment with shading solutions that best suit your plant’s needs.

Stay cool out there!

Water is essential for plant growth. Too little water (or too much), and your plants won’t make it. In hot, arid climates, sunken beds are a preventative measure against warmer weather (catch the rhyme there?).

By sinking the bed below ground level, you take advantage of naturally cooler soil, improved moisture retention, and better wind protection. Sunken beds can be a game-changer for gardeners in dry regions, making it easier to keep plants thriving with less water.

In this guide, we’ll cover what they are, why they work, and how you can create one in your garden. Let’s dig in!

What is a Sunken Bed?

A sunken garden bed is exactly as it sounds. Compared to a raised bed, which is elevated above ground level, a sunken garden bed is below ground level. They’re created by digging out an area and primarily using the existing soil for planting.

Sunken beds are well-suited for most plants and can be better than raised beds for many. Deep-rooted plants love the freedom of sunken beds, and there’s less concern with planting right next to the edge of the bed; the plants have the space to extend their roots beyond the sunken area if necessary. Additionally, trailing plants such as squash and watermelon that can overwhelm small raised beds thrive in sunken beds.

Benefits of a Sunken Bed.

Sunken gardens offer a range of benefits in the desert, making them a smart choice for water-wise landscaping. Here are some of the most compelling reasons to try this method:

• Reduces water loss. The deeper you go, the cooler and wetter the soil naturally is. Plus, the surrounding berms help minimize evaporation by shielding the bed from wind and direct sun while channeling water into the bed.
• Keeps temperatures down. During the hottest part of the day, the raised berms around the edges provide shade for some plants, while the lower elevation helps insulate them from extreme heat.
• Improves soil health. Water that would otherwise run off has a chance to sink in, delivering moisture and nutrients more effectively to plant roots. Over time, this helps build healthier, more resilient soil.
• Protects plants from wind. Strong winds can dry out plants and damage delicate stems in open desert landscapes. A sunken bed offers a natural windbreak, creating a more sheltered growing environment.
• Manages soil salinity. In dry climates, salt buildup in the soil can be a problem. Raised beds tend to pull salts toward the surface, which harms plants. Sunken beds, on the other hand, help draw salts deeper into the ground, keeping them away from plants and their roots.

Considerations for a Sunken Bed

Before you start digging, consider your bed’s size and location. Shelter from the intense afternoon sun is essential. If no natural (trees, shrubs) or structural shade (buildings, walls) exists, you may need to add shade fabric alongside the west and south-west sides of the bed.

Because you can walk through a sunken bed, there’s more flexibility in sizing. Larger beds also allow for companion planting and layering plants for shade (see our Tips for Growing in the Southwest Desert). A standard 4’ x 8’ size (1.25m x 2.5 m) is a good starting point for maintenance, and it’s easy to plan with the Planter app.

Drainage is also important. A slight slope toward one side of the bed can reduce pooling during heavy rain. Additionally, placing a terracotta pot in the soil at the lowest point of the bed can catch excess water during monsoon-like rains. The rim should sit just below the soil level, allowing water to collect and slowly soak in.

Building the Bed

1. Mark out the area with string and stakes to visualize the space. Sunken beds don’t have to be rectangular—you can shape them to fit your garden layout. If doing more than one bed, leave a 3-4 foot (around 1-1.5 meter) walkway between the beds to pile the dirt for the berms and move around the garden.
2. Dig down between 9 and 12 inches (23-30 cm). Pile the excavated soil around the edges to form berms. These raised dirt walls provide shade and block wind. Compact the berms with a shovel or walk on them to slow erosion.
3. Remove large rocks and debris as you dig. Any stones you find can reinforce the berms. You may also line the edge of the sunken bed with bricks or larger rocks for a more formal look.
4. Amend the soil. The top layer of desert soil is often nutrient-poor. Mix in compost to improve moisture retention. A 20% compost to 80% native soil mix maintains well-draining conditions while boosting nutrient supply.

Maintaining the Bed

Caring for a sunken garden bed is much like any other part of the garden; regular watering, weeding, and pest control are necessary. To reduce the spread of weeds, disturb the soil around your plants as little as possible.

Mulch is an excellent addition for water retention and weed suppression, although you should avoid geotextiles and bark mulches as much as possible. If you’re willing to collect it, the leaf litter from your yard (or your neighbor’s) is an excellent, nutrient-rich mulch, as are shredded tree trimmings.

Wrapping Up

Sunken beds offer a lower-cost, water-efficient way to garden. Once the hard work of digging is out of the way, they are relatively self-sustaining. They need less additional compost than raised beds, are suited for a wider variety of plants, and can simply be buried once you’re done—unlike raised beds, which are more permanent.

No matter what you grow, if you’re growing where it’s hot, sunken beds are an attractive and cost-effective way to garden.

Gardening in the Southwest desert comes with unique challenges, but also the opportunity for near year-round gardening. With the right strategies, you can grow a thriving, productive garden, whatever the weather. By selecting heat-tolerant plants, optimizing shade and soil conditions, and managing water efficiently, you can harvest bumper crops of veg year after year.

When to Start

The vibrant bloom of wildflowers marks the arrival of spring in the Southwest, the warm, sunny season in between the nippy winter and the scorching summer. March is the ideal time in the Southwest to transplant warm-season vegetables or start quick-growing seedlings for a full harvest by June.

What to Plant

Focus on quick-maturing vegetables that can handle high temperatures like those from the nightshade (tomatoes, peppers) and squash families (cucumbers, melons, summer squash) as well as herbs, especially rosemary, oregano, thyme, chives (with some shade), and culinary sage. When sourcing plants, look for desert heirloom varieties, hybrids, or regular cultivars that suit the warm, drier climate. Mediterranean plants generally do well in the Southwest; however, you should always check before you buy.

If you’re looking for a wider variety, you can expand your search to plants that mature quickly. Many plants that mature for harvest between 30-90 days (up to 70 days is optimal) can survive a Southwest spring, particularly if given sufficient shade and water.

Where to Plant

The summer sun is hot, and the high UV index in the desert can do a number on plant tissue. To minimize heat stress, focus on planting in areas that receive shade in the afternoon. Raised beds made from fired adobe bricks are excellent in the desert because of their high thermal capacity (they regulate heat well) and will keep the soil cooler than the dirt around it. 

Another consideration is sunken garden beds, which are as equally effective as raised adobe beds for keeping the soil cool. Look for a future article on this and how to create them.

Take temperature readings in your garden before choosing where to plant and observe where shade falls throughout the day as well. Areas near concrete walls or driveways will typically be hotter than those closer to trees or adobe buildings. Be mindful of planting too close to trees however, as they will compete for water and stunt your vegetable growth.

How to Create Shade

Not every spring is mild, and if you don’t have naturally shaded areas in your garden, you can easily create some. 

First, you’ll need some shade fabric, or shade cloth (the name can vary). A shade rating around 60% is ideal so that the sunlight is reduced but not entirely blocked. Shade fabric often comes pre-sized, and with grommets to attach it easily (we recommend this option for ease) so you may be able to buy one that fits your garden bed perfectly, or you can buy a bulk roll and trim to size as needed.

Installing it is very straightforward. The tunnel method, where the fabric is draped over curved canes, or like a triangular tent is excellent for low growing plants, and the fabric can be attached to the canes or structure using zip ties. Alternatively, you can used tall garden canes or fence posts to elevate the fabric to cover taller plants such as tomatoes. For larger posts, a screw can be drilled into the top or side of the post, and the fabric secured over it. For garden canes, zip ties are very handy once again.

Reducing Water Loss

Mulch is essential in Southwest gardens. A 2–4" (5-10 cm) layer around (but not directly on top of) seedlings and young plants helps trap moisture while maintaining airflow. Mulch can also lower soil temperature significantly during the heat of the day. When using mulch, be mindful of small scorpions that may use it as refuge if it becomes too damp; citrus peel or planting lavender with your veg will help to deter them.

Drip irrigation works well in the Southwest desert. Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation and keep roots healthy. Check plant health regularly and provide supplemental watering, especially on hot days. If needed, water again in the early evening with at least 2 hours of daylight left.

Multi-Story Gardening

Layering plants at different heights helps create a cooler microclimate, reduce water loss, and maximize space. You may have heard of the Three Sisters method—corn, beans, and squash—which works well in hot climates. In this system, tall corn provides shade, beans fix nitrogen in the soil, and squash spreads across the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

You can apply these principles to other plants in a Southwest garden:

• Tall plants (e.g., tomatoes, sunflowers, okra) provide shade for heat-sensitive crops.
• Medium-height plants (e.g., peppers, bush beans, eggplants) benefit from dappled sunlight beneath taller plants.
• Low-growing herbs (e.g., basil, oregano, creeping thyme) help retain soil moisture while deterring pests.
• Vining plants (e.g., cucumbers, melons, pole beans) can be trained to climb, reducing ground heat exposure.

By carefully layering plants, you can create a self-sustaining ecosystem that protects your crops from excessive heat and evaporation while improving soil health.

Choosing the Right Soil

Desert soil is often dry and low in nutrients but drains well. Mix it with compost to improve moisture retention and fertility. A good starting ratio is 2/3 compost to 1/3 native soil. Adding in decomposing mulch such as hay is excellent too.

Wrapping Up

Gardening in the desert Southwest isn’t tricky, but a little planning goes a long way. Choosing the right plants and location will help you enjoy a productive harvest year after year.