Plan a productive garden

Gardening without a plan can work, but if you’re gardening with the goal of saving money a solid plan can help ensure a successful harvest. A good garden plan helps ensure that you only buy the seeds, plants, and inputs you need and that you’re getting the most out of your garden space. Planter helps to make process of planning your garden easy and fun, and you can adjust your plan as many times as you need to hone it in.

When planning a budget-friendly garden, start small. It’s amazing how much produce can come out of a small space, and a small space means fewer tools, fewer inputs, and less weeding and watering. Scale up once you’ve mastered and maxed out your initial space.

When thinking about which plants to grow, focus on the foods your family likes to eat that can be easily grown in your local area. For more information on how to plan a productive garden check out these articles:

Planning the Harvest – What to Plant and When

Succession Planting & Growing Season Strategies

Succession Planting for Nonstop Harvests

Fresh Eating, Preserving, and Planning for Small Spaces

Shop around for garden tools

While quality gardening tools are a good investment that can last several years, they are also one of the more expensive up-front gardening costs. If the budget is tight, steer clear of fancy-dancy equipment and stick to the basics- rakes, hoes, shovels, trowels, pruners, watering cans, a garden fork, and a wheelbarrow. While gardening gadgets can offer added benefits and ease some of the learning curve with gardening, they’re not strictly necessary. With a bit of know-how and good technique gardening can be very simple. Only you can decide if a special gardening accessory offers enough potential benefit to you to fit it into the budget.

To find budget-friendly gardening tools, check out auctions, second hand stores, your local garden club, and online used marketplaces (keep safety in mind when shopping the online classifieds). It’s usually pretty easy to find basic used garden tools and they should still have life left in them unless they’ve been really abused. It’s often possible to repair and refurbish garden tools so they can continue being used for many years to come.

If you want to buy new tools or equipment, it pays to shop around and look for sales. Sometimes it can be more cost-effective in the long run to pay more up front for higher quality tools, but if your budget is constrained don’t feel like you have to splurge just to get started. With cheaper quality tools you may need to replace them in a few years, but perhaps by that point your garden will have evolved to where a bigger investment makes sense.

Reuse and upcycle

Many everyday items that we and others throw out can have a second life in a budget conscious garden. There are good reasons to buy supplies specifically designed for gardening, but when budgets are tight these recycled materials can make good substitutes.

For starting seeds and potting up plants, look for containers that can be recycled- yoghurt cups, solo cups, plastic and foil trays can all be used for seed starting. Be sure to add drainage holes so your seedlings don’t sit in excess water and rot. You might also be able to source used seed starting trays and pots from nursery transplants that you can clean and reuse.

Many gardeners have success with container gardening in food-grade 5 gallon buckets. You can sometimes source these inexpensively by asking around at restaurants or delis, or by checking local classifieds. You will need to add drainage holes and invest some money in potting mix to fill them up, but they are a great way to grow a lot of food economically in a small space.

Besides containers, there are many other materials that can be re-purposed in the garden. Used lumber and pallets can be turned into raised garden beds, compost bins, planters, and other garden structures. If the wood is in direct contact with the soil or compost be sure it hasn’t been treated or painted as that could put unwanted chemicals in your food. Wire racks, old wooden ladders, and metal box springs can also be transformed into trellises, arches, fences, and plant holders- creativity is really the limit!

Gather free inputs

Buying garden soil, potting, mix, and soil amendments can quickly add up, but there are lots of free ways to improve the health of your soil and to make purchased soil go further.

If you’re not already composting, composting is the best possible way to turn organic waste into a nutritious soil amendment. If you don’t have space for a compost bin or pile, try bokashi ‘composting’ or worm composting (vermicomposting). Check out Compost: Add Life to Your Garden for more information on composting.

Leaves and grass clippings can be used as garden mulch or as additions to your compost pile. If you don’t have enough in your own yard, offer to collect your neighbors’ as well! Confirm that the grass and leaves haven’t been sprayed with any pesticides, herbicides or other chemicals that could kill your plants or introduce toxins into your food.

Arborists will sometimes drop off free truckloads of wood chips if you ask them; wood chips can be used as mulch in pathways, orchards, and even potentially on your garden beds with some precautions. If you can’t take a whole truckload of wood chips at a time, you can sometimes find other gardeners willing to share their loads of woodchips in online classifieds. Branches and logs can also be used to help fill the bottom of raised garden beds- this saves significantly on the initial cost of filling them with soil mix as you’ll only need to add about 12-18” (30-45 cm) of soil mix on top. The wood will slowly decompose and add nutrients to the bed, and the beds will only need a small annual top-up of soil or compost as the wood breaks down. Branches can also be used to make DIY natural trellises.

If you have free access to livestock manure that can also be a great addition to the compost pile (or to the garden provided it has time to break down before planting). Do not use dog/cat/human manure as it can potentially make you sick, and with other animal manures be sure they haven’t been fed any feed that could contain persistent herbicides as these can have toxic effects on your plants for months or even years to come.

Look for seed swaps and plant sales

Many communities have active garden clubs that host seed swaps and plant sales - often in the spring as the gardening season ramps up. At seed swaps you can usually still get seeds for free even if you don’t have any yet to contribute (in future years hopefully you will!) Through your local garden club you’ll also meet fellow gardeners who you can exchange seeds and plants with directly throughout the year. Some public libraries also now offer seed libraries where you can pick up free seeds.

Plant sales are fundraisers where gardeners donate extra plants for free and you can often buy plants at a reduced cost compared to a garden center. It’s not only garden clubs that offer plant sales- some community and neighborhood organizations host them as well, so be on the lookout.

With seed swaps and plant sales you may not find the exact varieties you were looking for- and you might end up with a few surprises- but as long as you don’t veer too far off course from your garden plan they can be a great way to save money.

Start your own seeds

Some plants need to be started indoors or otherwise purchased as transplants from a garden center. If you’re planning to grow more than a couple plants you can save a significant amount of money by starting your own seeds indoors. To start seeds indoors you’ll need some containers and a quality seed starting mix. If possible a grow light can make a huge difference in your ability to start seeds successfully. If you can’t swing a grow light in the budget you can start seeds in a sunny windowsill, but the results can sometimes be poor depending on how much sunlight comes through (especially when days are shorter). Other seed starting equipment such as heat mats, shelves, special trays, and watering systems can help but for the most part these are optional.

Propagate plants from cuttings

Many plants can be grown by taking cuttings from an existing plant and rooting them in water or a moist growing medium. Propagating plants from cuttings is a great way to multiply plants on a budget. Not all plants can be propagated easily from cuttings, so be sure to check before starting. You can find fellow gardeners with plants you can take cuttings from, otherwise some plants can even be propagated from grocery store cuttings- especially certain herbs. For an example of how to do this check out this article on How to Propagate Basil. While it’s ideal to choose plant varieties that are adapted to your climate versus whatever happens to be in the grocery store, if you’re buying herbs to cook with anyways and save a few stems to propagate it can be a cost-efficient way to grow more herbs.

Preserve and use your harvest

To get the most out of your gardening investments, don’t let your harvest go to waste! Get creative with your cooking to use up what you can, and try different preservation methods to store any produce that you can’t use fresh. To help with this we’ve written several articles that offer inspiration on using and storing your harvest:

A Garden Inspired Feast

Our Favorite Fall Garden Recipes

Use It or Lose It: What to Do with a Veggie Glut

A Beginner’s Guide to Canning

Root Cellaring Without a Root Cellar

If you’re looking to keep fresh produce in your diet without breaking the bank it is possible to garden in a way that saves money. Gardening offers so many benefits beyond money savings, though. From a strictly financial point of view gardening might not be the best time investment, but if gardening brings you enjoyment and fulfillment it is well worth doing.

So what are some common gardening pitfalls, and how can we avoid them?

Not planning your garden

Not planning your garden is a very common mistake for new gardeners. It’s easy to assume that gardening season starts with a fun trip to the garden center to load up on plants and seeds, then coming home and trying to figure out where to squeeze them in and how to grow them. While this laid-back approach can work, it can also cause almost all the other mistakes in this article- like starting plants too early or too late, or not having the right plants in the right areas of your garden (just to name a couple!)

Many gardeners enjoy the process of garden planning, but it does take some time to think through everything in detail. That’s why the Planter app is such a game-changer- you can easily plan your garden from virtually anywhere. Whether you’re on a bus, on a comfy couch, or even out in your garden! Planter also makes it easy to make changes to your garden plans and visualize your garden. With a solid plan your garden will be set up for a successful growing season!

Selecting plants and varieties that don’t suit your climate

There’s a lot to learn when it comes to selecting plants and varieties that are well-adapted for your climate.

As a starting point, before buying annual plants you’ll want to know your frost dates (if applicable) and the number of days in your growing season. Luckily Planter makes this easy- you can enter your location to get your frost dates and the number of days in your growing season will display automatically! Many annual plants need to be started indoors so they have enough time to grow and reach maturity well before your first frost. If you live in a region with a short growing season, you may want to seek out short-season varieties that mature more quickly so you can get the maximum harvest possible in the time you have. You should also check the variety description for information about whether a variety performs best in hotter areas or in areas with more moderate temperatures.

For perennials it’s important to know your hardiness zone to be able to determine whether a plant will survive winters in your area. To be on the safe side you might want to choose plants that are rated a zone or two hardier than your zone, in case of a freak cold snap that could kill them off. If you want to grow perennials that are not hardy in your zone you’ll need to take extra steps- or even overwinter them indoors- to help them survive.

On top considering the length of your growing season and the average temperatures, you might also want to look for varieties that are resistant to the pests and diseases that are most common in your area.

While you’re gaining experience with different varieties in your own garden, talk with other local gardeners to get an idea of which plants and varieties perform best for them.

Starting plants too early or too late

Timing is key when it comes to gardening, but it can be tricky to figure out when is the best time to start seeds indoors and when to plant outdoors. There’s no black-and-white formula for when to start planting- it depends on where you are, what you’re growing, and other factors.

New gardeners often don’t realize how critical it is to get the timing right in the garden, especially in a short growing season. It’s easy to assume that anything available for sale at the garden center still has time to grow. You might pick up a packet of seeds mid-season not realizing they needed to be started weeks or even months ago. Gardeners with some experience know that many plants need to be started indoors (or purchased as transplants and planted early enough in the season), but with that knowledge it’s tempting to start too early. Starting seeds indoors too early can lead to overgrown plants that are difficult to keep healthy until they can be safely planted outside. And almost every gardener is guilty at some point of planting too early outdoors only to have their seeds rot or to have a late frost kill off their plants!

To hone in on the right time to start plants, check out the Growing Calendar in Planter for guidelines on when to start plants in your area, then refer to the seed packets or plant tags for the specific varieties you are growing to get a more exact idea of when they should be planted.

Not matching plant needs with the growing area

Some plants prefer full sun, while others do better in part shade. Some plants need fertile soil while others fare better in poorer soil. Some plants need consistent soil moisture while others prefer drier conditions. And some plants prefer slightly alkaline soil while others prefer more acidic soil. If you don’t select or create a location in your garden that meets each plants’ needs, they are bound to struggle.

You can find all of this important plant care information in Planter, and you can filter plants by their needs so you can plan your garden with each plant’s requirements in mind.

Improperly spacing plants

New gardeners will often ‘wing it’ when planting out their garden, not realizing how important it is to give each plant it’s proper space. Spacing plants too closely can cause water and nutrient deficiencies and can lead to issues with disease and pests. Spacing plants too far apart means that precious garden space is wasted and maintenance and harvesting is less efficient. Having wide open spaces between plants also invites weeds to grow.

Different plants have different spacing requirements, depending on how big they get and their water and nutrient needs. There are several different plant spacing methods that gardeners use, and with experience you can hone in on the spacing that works best for your garden. Plant spacing noted on seed packets is usually row spacing, a traditional plant spacing method. Another popular spacing method is Square Foot Gardening which aims to maximize the number of plants per square foot of garden space by building healthy soil. The plant spacings in Planter follow the Square Foot Gardening method.

Not observing your plants regularly

Growing a garden isn’t just about planting, fertilizing, watering, and waiting for a harvest. One of the most important steps to having a successful garden is to regularly observe each of your plants to make sure they’re staying healthy. Many gardening problems can be corrected if they’re caught early enough, but if you don’t take time to observe your plants regularly issues like lack of water, lack of fertility, or pests and diseases can go unnoticed for so long that they’re beyond fixing. With tender seedlings, young plants, and container plants sometimes even a few hours without water or with too much sun can be life-or-death.

Observing plants regularly is much easier said than done with our busy daily lives. Sometimes having tools like irrigation systems on timers can help, but automation isn’t a full replacement for a gardener’s presence. The best thing to do is to figure out a gardening routine that works with your schedule, and don’t take unnecessary risks with sensitive plants if you might not have time to check on them.

Stressing too much about garden fails

While this is a list of gardening mistakes to avoid, keep in mind that making mistakes is a big part of gardening. Good gardeners learn from their mistakes and improve, and instead of dwelling on them they look for possible solutions. If some of your seedlings died, maybe there’s still an opportunity to buy some transplants. If pests wiped out some of your crops, maybe there’s still time to swap in a different crop. Even if you can’t recover from a mistake in the same season, next season is always a blank slate to build on what you learned.

We all try to avoid mistakes in the garden as much as possible, but more important than avoiding mistakes is persevering when mistakes do happen!

In past gardening seasons, I’ve used season extension techniques to keep my plants alive and productive as long as possible. In my home garden I’ve managed to keep tomatoes and peppers going well into November and December, just by covering them carefully at night and on cold days. And at the market garden where I used to work, we had hoop houses and a heated greenhouse to keep production going as long as possible. I enjoyed delaying the inevitable and harvesting from still-healthy plants as the warm days became fewer and farther between.

This year being my first year with my own market garden, the end of the season went a bit differently. The last Farmers’ Market was on October 11th; since we are a new operation and the market was our primary sales outlet, this ended most of our sales for the year. What is still growing in the field is now mainly for us, our family, friends, and neighbours. We haven’t yet invested in low tunnels, hoop houses, or greenhouses so our plentiful end of season bounty is available on a limited-time basis only. At the market garden scale, unlike my past home gardens, it doesn’t really make sense to try to save plants without the proper infrastructure. Anticipating incoming frosts, we’ve focused our efforts on harvesting, eating, processing, and storing copious amounts of tomatoes, peppers, and squash. We’ve left the cool-season crops to be harvested as-needed, and we continue to enjoy an all-you-can-eat buffet of lettuce, arugula, various Asian greens, spinach, swiss chard, parsley, carrots, turnips, and radishes.

Aside from harvesting as much as possible, I’m starting to get antsy to get the garden cleaned up and put to bed. Normally I’m somewhat “middle-of-the-road” when it comes to my fall garden cleanup philosophy. I like to leave some plant debris behind (from disease-free plants) to add nutrients back to the soil, to help prevent erosion, and to provide spots for beneficial insects to overwinter. Some larger plants I might cut off at the base and remove, leaving only the roots behind to decompose, while smaller and more cold-hardy plants might be left as-is until spring. However in my new garden this year I experienced more pest and disease pressure than I have in the past, so I’m trying to clear away plant debris (…and weeds…) more thoroughly in hopes of freezing out some of the pests over winter.

To that end, I started pulling up and cutting off plants early this year- before they were even showing signs of cold damage- knowing that there was a lot of work to do and mother nature could throw me a curveball (a snowball?) sooner than expected. I have to admit this was a bit of a tough task, since the plants still looked healthy and the bees were still enjoying the flowers. I’m heartened though to have had such a productive season, and I know there will be a great sense of satisfaction to get the field cleaned up before the snow flies. Plus I still have several beds of radishes and arugula in flower that I’m leaving until the last possible moment so the bees can still enjoy them…

The process of putting the garden to bed in the fall tends to put me in a reflective mood. I’m thankful for the year, the harvests, and for all the things that went well. This year I was proud of getting started with my dream of having my own market garden- especially since we just moved and had many unknowns to deal with. I was also proud of successfully growing some new crops for the first time such as salsify, and I also had great success growing microgreens which I’d found in the past to be a bit of a learning curve. 

While the main focus at this time of year is harvesting and winding down the garden, there is one fall planting task I always look forward to: planting garlic for next year. It’s refreshing to be able to plant something new while most other crops are being cleared out, and it gets me excited and looking ahead to the upcoming season. I’m already thinking about which crops to focus on, how to dial in my garden plan, and how to expand our capacity. While I am looking forward to getting my plan for next season together, and partaking in more indoor garden-related activities like saving seeds and growing microgreens, for now I’m still savoring every sunny day I get to enjoy out in the garden. ☀️

We moved in the dead of winter, which in Ontario, Canada presents unique obstacles. For example, some of our furniture had to live in the garage until the snow drifts melted down enough to carry it in the (wider) back door! As the wind howled and snow fell outside, we hunkered down inside working, planning, and dreaming of all the things we would grow in the garden come spring.

Starting a market garden the first year after moving is admittedly ambitious (or is that a nice way of putting it?) but after a lengthy property search we didn’t want to waste any time getting going. Ideally we would have had the fall to start preparing beds so everything would be more or less ready for planting come spring, but we worked with the time we had. In late February I sowed the first seeds indoors in our shop- onions and parsley to start. Starting seeds indoors in the winter is always exciting. It’s a reminder that sunshine, warmth, and greenery is coming back again. This time though it was extra meaningful as we were taking one of the first steps towards our goal of starting a market garden.

I tended the little seeds with extra care, trying to optimize the growing medium, heat, and light to ensure their success. While gardening as a job is a labor of love, it comes with a degree of expectation that is different from gardening as a hobby. The joys of gardening are exponentially increased- watching seedlings emerge, seeing plants growing healthily, enjoying beautiful sunny days with birds singing outside, and eating fresh produce that you grew yourself- but there are also fears that creep in. What if it’s a flop? What if we don’t sell much, or don’t have much to sell?

All I could do was push the worries aside and continue on. I started sowing the peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, and tomatillos indoors, but by this point I was starting to have some challenges with the seed starting operation. The earliest planted seedlings were becoming a bit sickly. I did have to change a few things in my seed starting process as part of ‘scaling up’, so I figured it was a matter of dialing in the heat, water, and nutrients. I tweaked and adjusted, and took solace that the younger seedlings were still looking OK.

It was relatively late in spring by the time we were able to get into the field to start planting. Significant snowfall, combined with an unusually cold and wet spring, put us several weeks behind schedule. We didn’t have tarps or hoop houses in place to help the ground dry out and warm up faster, so we were bound to mother nature’s schedule. When we finally got into the field it felt like a huge milestone- getting to work the land as we had so eagerly anticipated. We sowed cool-season favorites like peas, carrots, spinach, lettuce, and arugula, ironically now hoping that the warm weather wouldn’t come too quickly and finish them off prematurely.

Not long after planting we did get an unusual spring heatwave- with daytime highs up to 75-85°F (25-30°C) and about a week with no rain. It was time to get watering, so I went to look for where to turn on the outside spigot. After following a maze of snaking pipes I found the valve that led outdoors, but I also noticed a larger pipe heading out in the general direction of the shop- and saw that that pipe was connected to the water softener outflow. For anyone unfamiliar, most residential water softeners work by adding salt to the water to bind other minerals. I’d been giving my seedlings salt water! It never crossed my mind that the shop water- over 100’ away from the house and with no appliances- would have any reason to be softened. While I was dismayed to learn I’d been slowly salting my seedlings, it felt like an absolute stroke of luck to have caught it at this point. While there were losses in the earlier seeded crops (RIP onions), the crops seeded later recovered with TLC and turned into healthy transplants.

Around this time the garden outside was starting to take off as the cooler spring temps continued on, save the one hot week. During the mini heatwave, I’d fretted and fussed over the peas, the spinach, and especially the carrots. I was still getting familiar with the sandy loam soil and how often it needed watering, especially with a drying wind coming off the lake nearby. After that we had nearly a week of glorious, continuous, gentle rain which, although it put a damper on planting, provided relief from watering. The watering efforts were not in vain though as the carrots finally germinated (hooray!), the spinach poked through, and the peas tripled in size.

We’ve finally reached a point in the season where it feels like the garden is coming together. More and more of the field has been turned into usable growing space, the previously planted crops are starting to flourish, and the overall picture is becoming less of a blurry vision and more of a reality. There will certainly be more challenges to come- I’m not-so-eagerly waiting to see what kind of pest and disease pressure we have- but no matter what happens we’ll just keep planting, just keep watering, and just keep weeding!

What makes a plant an insectary plant? Insectary plants provide food sources and shelter for beneficial insects, which attracts them and encourages them to stick around your garden. If you’ve already read our article Pest Hunters: Beneficial Predatory and Parasitic Insects, you know that there are many beneficial insects that prey on garden pests. By planting insectary plants we can encourage these predatory and parasitic insects to take up residence in our garden. Not to mention supporting pollinators which are much appreciated garden helpers!

You might be wondering: ‘if beneficial insects eat pests, why do they need plants for food?’ In many cases it’s the beneficial insects’ larvae that prey on insect pests while the adults feed mainly on pollen and nectar. This is why many insectary plants tend to be flowers or flowering herbs. In the case of herbs, it’s important to let at least some of the plants bloom if you want to attract beneficial insects.

Keep in mind that one lonely flowering plant will not entice an army of pest hunters! Aim to plant as many insectary plants as is possible with the space you have, and be sure to plant insectary plants with different bloom times to provide pollen and nectar all season long. Also, place insectary close to the plants you want to protect. If they’re too far away from your main garden the beneficial insects may not make the trek over.

To help with incorporating insectary plants in your garden plan, we’ve compiled a list of some common insectary plants and the beneficial insects they attract:

List of insectary plants

Ammi

Scientific name: Ammi majus

In a study of insectary plants from the University of Connecticut, Ammi majus was found to attract the highest number of beneficial predatory and parasitic insect families amongst all plants studied. Ammi was also the only plant in the study that attracted two types of parasitic wasps- braconids and ichneumonids. Ammi generally blooms in spring and early summer.

Borage

Scientific name: Borago officinalis

Borage is a favored pollinator plant in the garden. It is also highly attractive to beneficial insects such as lacewings, syrphid flies, and ground beetles. Borage may even help to repel hornworms and other pests! Borage self-seeds prolifically; regular deadheading can help to encourage flowering and to reduce the amount of seeds dropped. With good care borage will bloom for most of the growing season- from June to October or longer.

California poppy

Scientific name: Eschscholzia californica

California poppies are native to the western United States and Mexico. They are highly attractive to syrphid flies and can also attract minute pirate bugs. California poppies bloom from early spring to summer, depending on the climate. In warmer areas they are perennials, but in colder climates they are grown as annuals.

Catnip

Scientific name: Nepeta cataria

Catnip does double duty when comes to pest control. Not only does it attract beneficial nectar-feeding insects such as syrphid flies, but it also produces compounds that have been shown to repel pests such as aphids, squash bugs, and others. Catnip is an extremely aggressive spreader that also self-seeds prolifically, so you’ll want to keep it contained and grow it in an area where it cannot easily self-seed. Catnip usually blooms from late spring to mid-summer; deadheading when flowers die back can help to promote new blooms and reduce seed drop.

Chamomile

Scientific name: Matricaria chamomilla

Studies have found chamomile to be highly attractive to syrphid flies as well as parasitic wasps. Chamomile may also help to attract lady beetles, lacewings, minute pirate bugs, and tachinid flies. Chamomile blooms from spring right through to fall, providing a valuable season-long food source for beneficial insects.

Cilantro

Scientific name: Coriandrum sativum

Cilantro goes to flower readily especially when warm, dry weather arrives in late spring to summer. While this can be disappointing if you’re growing cilantro for it’s leaves, it’s a boon for attracting a variety of beneficial insects such as syrphid flies, tachinid flies, parasitic wasps lacewings, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Plus you can let cilantro form seeds then harvest them either to make coriander spice or to re-plant!

Dill

Scientific name: Anethum graveolens

While dill is technically a biennial it often flowers in the first season, depending on the variety and when it was planted. Dill is attractive to syrphid flies, lacewings, lady beetles, and parasitic wasps. You might also find green-black-and-yellow caterpillars on your dill plants. These are black swallowtail butterfly larvae, and while they do eat dill (and related plants) they rarely cause major damage. It’s best to leave them be!

As a bonus, dill may also have a repellent effect on aphids, cabbage loopers, squash bugs, and other pests. Plus dill readily self-seeds if the flowers are left to form seed heads!

Lavender

Scientific name: Lavandula spp.

English lavender is attractive to syrphid flies and lady beetles. Once established, lavender is a drought-tolerant plant that does not like ‘wet feet’, although it will flower best if not left to completely dry out. Lavender typically blooms from late spring to early summer. The scent of lavender, while appealing to many of us, may have a repellent effect on mosquitos, moths, and other pests.

Marigold

Scientific name: Tagetes spp.

Marigolds are a well-known beneficial garden plant, and for good reason! Marigolds are attractive to a variety of beneficial insects including lacewings, damsel bugs, big-eyed bugs, lady beetles, parasitic wasps, and minute pirate bugs. Marigolds also have many reputed pest-deterring properties, although only some of these are proven with research and the effects can vary depending on the type of marigold and how it is used. Marigolds can bloom almost all season long provided they are cared for and regularly deadheaded!

Mint

Scientific name: Mentha spp.

Mint and catnip are related and, like catnip, mint is a very aggressive spreader and self-seeder. So long as mint is contained it is a beneficial addition to the garden, attracting syrphid flies, damsel bugs, minute pirate bugs, and big-eyed bugs. Mint may also have a repellant effect on cabbage loopers and cabbage maggots. Mint usually blooms from late spring through summer; deadheading can help to encourage more blooms and reduce self-seeding.

Oregano

Scientific name: Origanum vulgare

Oregano is attractive to a variety of predatory and parasitic insects such as syrphid flies, tachinid flies, parasitic wasps lacewings, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Oregano may also help to repel aphids. Oregano tends to bloom in mid-summer. The leaves are more flavorful before the plant forms flowers, but do not harvest too aggressively if you want to encourage blooms.

Parsley

Scientific name: Petroselinum crispum var. crispum, P. crispum var. neapolitanum

Parsley is attractive to syrphid flies, lady beetles, parasitic wasps, and tachinid flies, Like dill, parsley is also technically a biennial but it can flower in the first season especially if exposed to extremes of hot or cold weather. Parsley also plays host to black swallowtail butterfly larvae, sometimes called parsleyworms. While they do eat parsley, they usually do not cause major destruction especially in the home garden.

Sunflowers

Scientific name: Helianthus spp.

Sunflowers are a tall and striking addition in the vegetable garden. They are attractive to syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, lady beetles, and minute pirate bugs. Note that some speciality sunflower varieties do not produce nectar or pollen so they will not be helpful for beneficial insects (nor pollinators). Sunflowers usually bloom in late summer and early fall, providing a great late-season food source. Because sunflowers are tall and may share pests and diseases with other garden plants (more so than some of the other insectary plants), choose a location where sunflowers will not interfere with or shade out other garden plants.

Sweet alyssum

Scientific name: Lobularia maritima

Alyssum is a well-documented insectary plant that is attractive to syrphid flies, lacewings, tachinid flies, lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, and parasitic wasps. Because it is a compact, low-growing plant, alyssum can be tucked into almost any empty space in the garden to lure in beneficial insects (and to help suppress weeds and retain moisture). Alyssum can bloom from summer to fall, although it may slow down during very hot, dry weather. Keep alyssum well-watered and deadhead regularly to encourage continuous blooming.

Thyme

Scientific name: Thymus spp.

Beneficial insects tend to prefer many smaller flowers rather than individual larger flowers. Thyme, with its dainty white or pink flowers, is highly attractive to parasitic wasps, syrphid flies and other beneficial insects. Thyme can also help to repel whiteflies and cabbage moths. Thyme will typically bloom from late spring to summer. As with oregano, thyme leaves are best harvested right before the plant flowers but do not harvest too aggressively if you want to encourage bloom.

There are certainly many more insectary plants than the ones listed here! Of course there will be native plants specific to your area that can help to attract local beneficial predatory and parasitic insects to the garden. Also, research is just beginning to understand how particular garden plants can be best used for natural pest control. No matter which plants you choose, adding a variety of flowering plants in the garden is a great way to beautify the space while providing potential benefits to your edible crops!

In this article, we’ll delve into tips and tricks to store your seeds properly so they last as long as possible.

Seed storage containers and organization

If your seeds came in packets from the seed company, it’s best to keep them in their packets as they usually contain a wealth of information that you can refer back to the next time you want to grow those seeds. It’s helpful to use a paperclip or alligator clip to hold seed packets shut as it’s easy for small seeds to escape and get mixed up if the packet is just folded shut. Most seed packets have a ‘Packed On’ or ‘Sell By’ date on them that can give you an indication of how old the seeds are, but if you don’t see this information be sure to label the packet with the year that you purchased the seeds.

Seed storage containers can be as simple or complicated; as inexpensive or expensive as you choose. The main goal with the storage container is to keep humidity away from your seed packets as much as possible. Seed packets can be kept in well-sealed plastic baggies, glass jars, or plastic containers with tight-fitting lids. You can optionally add silica desiccant inside the containers with your seed packets to help draw out residual humidity. 

Handy tip- you can reuse silica desiccant- either that you purchased or even the little packs that come with shoes and other things you buy- by drying it in the microwave or oven! Look for detailed step-by-step instructions online (and be careful to only put safe materials in the microwave or oven!)

There are some question marks on the effectiveness of vacuum sealing seeds, but if you choose to go this route it is best to use both a desiccant and oxygen absorber in the bag (/container). Seeds that have been vacuum sealed should still be stored in a cool, dark place.

No matter where you store seeds, they must be absolutely dry before storing in containers. If there is excess moisture in your seeds for any reason (e.g., if you are saving your own seeds, or if your seeds got wet during planting), they could easily turn moldy inside the containers.

There are a few different ways you can organize your seeds within their containers. You can organize seeds by the year they were purchased (or the Sell By dates), so it’s easy to find older seeds to use up first. You could also organize seeds into categories- e.g., leafy greens, herbs, flowers. If you have a large seed collection it might make sense to group seed packets by plant (e.g., tomatoes, lettuce, etc.) so it’s easy to see all the different varieties you have of each.

Personally, I like to use small plastic tubs with tight-fitting lids to store my seeds. I use plastic baggies inside (with the air squeezed out) to group the seed packets for different categories of plants. Some gardeners really like using clear plastic photo organizers to protect their seed packets and organize them into logical groupings.

Where should I store seeds?

Ideally you’ll want to store seeds in a location that is cool- between 32-40°F (0-5°C), dry- less than 60% relative humidity, and dark. There are a few places that people often consider for storing seeds:

Should I store seeds in the basement or in the garage?

While basements, sheds, and garages can sometimes be cool-ish and dark, they can also have high humidity levels. Many sheds and garages will get surprisingly hot in the summer- and even basements are not really cool enough for optimal seed storage. Besides that, you definitely do not want to store your precious seeds anywhere that rodents or other critters could access. Although not ideal, storing seeds in the basement is likely the better option of the three provided you store your seeds in airtight containers (preferably with desiccant) to help protect them from excess humidity.

Should I store seeds in the refrigerator?

The fridge is an ideal place to store seeds temperature-and-light-wise, although fridges do tend to have higher-than-ideal humidity levels for seed storage (around 65%- above the 60% guideline). If you keep the humidity away from your seeds with airtight containers- and optionally with desiccant- the fridge is a good place for long-term seed storage…assuming you have fridge space to spare! Keep the seed storage containers at the back of the fridge or in a drawer that stays consistently cool (i.e., not near the doors). If you happen to have a mini fridge you could store your seeds there- it may be opened less often and may not be as full as your kitchen fridge. When you take your seed containers out of the fridge be sure to let them come up to room temperature before opening them to keep condensation away from your seed packets.

Should I store seeds in the freezer?

Information is mixed on whether it’s a good idea to store seeds in the freezer. Unfortunately our home freezers do not always have the ideal storage conditions for seeds. Typical home freezer temperatures may be too cold for some types of seeds to be stored. Also, because home freezers are regularly opened, this can lead to freeze-thaw-freeze cycles that can reduce the longevity of seeds. Any power outages can also easily let your seeds thaw out. In general it’s better to keep seeds in the fridge if possible. If you do choose to store seeds in the freezer, be sure they are completely dry, seal them in airtight containers, then choose a location where they are more likely to stay frozen. When you take your seed containers out of the freezer be sure to let them come up to room temperature before opening them to keep condensation away from your seed packets.

How long do seeds keep?

How long seeds keep varies widely based on a number of factors including the source, how they were stored, and the plant itself. The seeds of some plants, such as parsnips and onions, are known to be short-lived even under ideal storage conditions and it’s generally recommended to start with fresh seed each year. Tomato or cucumber seeds on the other hand can potentially last for several years if stored properly. Even reputable sources have different estimates for how long the seeds of certain plants will keep; there’s not a hard-and-fast rule for every plant. Typically, germination rates of stored seeds will gradually decline until at some point they hit near-zero. Sometimes stored seed will still germinate but the resulting plant may not be as vigorous. If you’re willing to deal with slower and more sporadic germination you can continue to use seeds that are quite old.

It’s better to start old seeds in smaller-size trays, so as not to waste too much space for seeds that might not germinate (provided they are seeds that can be started indoors). You can always pot up the seeds that do manage to germinate. Plant more seeds than you need to account for the reduced germination rate of old seeds. Or, if you’d like to know what to expect before you sow old seeds, you can test their germination rate before planting.

How to test seed germination rates

To test the germination rate of seeds, place at least 20 seeds separated from each other between two layers of moist paper towel then place in a plastic baggie and seal it shut. Make sure the baggie is kept at the usual temperature for starting those seeds- for many seeds room temperature should be OK. After a couple days, start checking the seeds regularly to see how many have germinated. You’ll see a little white root starting to poke out of the seed coat.

At the end of the typical germination period for those seeds (usually indicated on the seed packet) count how many have germinated and divide this by the total number of seeds in the baggie. Compare this germination % with the expected germination rate for that seed- germination rates are not usually 100% even for fresh seed! Either find germination rate information on the seed packet, or do a quick web search to find usual germination rates for that variety. If your germination rate is far below what it should normally be for fresh seed you can either choose to discard the seed or take steps to minimize the impact of poor germination.

You may be able to carefully plant the test seeds that have germinated in some seed starting mix, depending on the timing. If you’re running a germination test far too early or too late in your season for that particular plant it may not be worthwhile.

By storing your seeds with care, you’ll maximize their longevity and get the best return on your seed purchasing investment! With careful storage you may be able to get several years of reasonable viability from many of your seeds- so you won’t have to purchase as many new seeds next year. (Or at least if you do it’s to try fun new varieties- not just to replace old seed!)

What is soil pH and why does it matter?

pH stands for potential hydrogen, and in the garden it is a measurement of the amount of hydrogen ions in the soil (technically in a soil solution). pH is measured by a numerical scale ranging from 0.0 to 14.0 although soil pH will never reach the extreme ends of the scale. Lower numbers are acidic, higher numbers are alkaline (aka ‘basic’), and a pH of 7.0 is neutral- neither acidic nor alkaline. It’s a bit counter-intuitive, but the higher the pH the less hydrogen there is in the soil and the lower the pH the more hydrogen. The pH of the soil affects the availability of nutrients for your plants, so it’s important to have right soil pH for the plants you grow. If the soil pH is either too acidic or too alkaline, nutrients will be bound too tightly or too loosely for plants to use.

What pH should my soil be? (*hint, check Planter!)

As a rough guideline, the optimal soil pH for growing fruits and vegetables is generally between 6.0 - 7.0. To confirm the preferred pH range for each of the plants that you grow, check out the new Soil pH Quick Info Card in Planter!

While many plants can tolerate a somewhat wide pH range, they do have individual preferences and there are a some plants with very particular pH needs.

How can I test my soil pH?

The best way to test your soil pH is to send a soil sample to your local extension office or to a reputable soil testing lab. You’ll likely want to test multiple areas in your garden as the pH can vary from bed to bed; be sure to keep track of your samples and follow the lab’s soil sampling instructions carefully for accurate results. While lab tests can be somewhat pricey, you’ll learn lots of valuable information about your soil and how to best to amend it. Check your local extension office first as many offer this service for free or at a reduced cost.

Another option is to buy a soil pH meter or a home soil test kit. There are even ways to do DIY soil pH tests with materials you might already have at home. While at-home home testing isn’t as precise as lab testing, if the test is done properly you should at least get an indication of whether you have highly acidic or alkaline soil that could cause your plants to struggle. If the at-home test suggests there could be a problem with your soil pH, you’ll want to follow up with a lab test before using any pH-altering amendments. A lab test will help you determine the right amendment application rates for your soil.

Changing your soil pH

How to raise soil pH

If you only need to raise your soil pH slightly, applying compost can help to bring the pH into an optimal range. Compost has an ideal pH for growing veggies and by working it into your soil it can help to buffer your soil pH. If your soil is fairly acidic and you need to raise the pH significantly, you’ll want to apply lime to the soil. There are different types of lime available - garden lime (aka agricultural lime) is calcium carbonate which will add calcium to the soil along with raising the pH. Dolomitic lime, another common product for raising soil pH, will also add magnesium. If you know your soil is deficient in magnesium you may want to use dolomitic lime.

It typically takes some time for soil microbes to break down the lime and raise the soil pH, so you’ll want to apply lime in the fall for the soil to be ready for spring planting.

How to lower soil pH

If your soil is only slightly alkaline, incorporating compost can also help to buffer the alkalinity. To acidify your soil significantly, you’ll need to apply a sulfur or sulfate product. Generally in the home garden it’s best to use elemental sulfur (sometimes called agricultural sulfur). It will take time for the sulfur to acidify the soil so it’s ideal to apply it in fall for spring planting. Some sources also suggest using peat moss to lower soil pH however according to the Iowa State University Extension Office only Canadian sphagnum peat moss can effectively lower soil pH (and it’s best used in a contained space in conjunction with sulfur for acid-loving plants).

Keep in mind that changing your soil pH generally isn’t a one-time event; you’ll need to continue monitoring the pH and adding amendments as necessary to maintain the recommended range. If you’re struggling to change your soil pH, gardening in raised beds or containers could be a good alternative as it’s easier to achieve and maintain the right pH in a contained spot. Container growing is also a good option for plants with unique pH needs, such as blueberries, which require an unusually acidic soil that most other plants won’t appreciate.

While soil pH usually isn’t top of mind in the garden, it’s one of the most important factors for healthy plants. Whether you’re starting a brand-new garden or improving existing garden beds, be sure to pay attention to your soil pH so your plants can flourish!

Through my research (and trial, and plenty of error) I’ve learned some microgreen growing tips that you might find helpful if you’re also new to the world of growing microgreens.

What are the easiest microgreens to grow?

The first thing I learned is that some types of microgreens are easier to grow for newbies. In the past I just tried to grow whatever seeds I had on hand in bulk, but just like with garden plants, some microgreens are easier to grow than others. Radish, pea, and sunflower are some of the easiest microgreens to grow as they germinate easily and grow quickly. Although pea and sunflower microgreens are easy to grow, the seeds do benefit from a pre-soaking step before seeding.

Amaranth, basil, beets, and carrots are some examples of microgreens that can be harder to grow, due to more sporadic germination and/or slower growth. For my initial microgreen trial, I chose broccoli microgreens. Depending on who you ask, broccoli could be an easy microgreen to grow or a bit of a challenge. I was excited to try them, so I decided to give it a shot.

Choosing a microgreen growing medium

After selecting your microgreen seeds the next most important decision is which growing medium to use for microgreens. Microgreens need a sterile soilless growing medium, and there are many recommended microgreen growing media options such as coconut coir, peat, seed starting mix, and even specially designed microgreen mats. Each of these media (and others) have pros and cons in terms of cost, consistency of growth, and ease of harvesting. Apparently even the paper towel method I’d attempted in the past can be used to successfully grow microgreens, although it’s probably not optimal.

For the broccoli microgreens, I chose to go with a seed starting mix I had on hand. To be sure it was free of nasties that might cause the microgreens to mold, I sanitized it with boiling water before getting started.

Microgreen mold management

Since microgreens are seeded much more densely than plants that are destined for the garden, it can be tricky to keep them from going moldy as they grow. Starting with a sterile growing medium and clean trays is the first line of defense against mold. It’s also important to not over-saturate the growing medium which can cause it to go anaerobic and the microgreens to drown and rot away. Once your growing medium is adequately saturated, using a spray bottle to mist the seeds while they germinate can help to keep them moist without adding excess water.

Promoting good airflow can also help to keep microgreens from molding once they’ve sprouted and started to grow. A gentle fan is ideal, but in a pinch an air vent or an open window can help.

As my broccoli microgreens were sprouting and growing I kept an eye out for signs of mold. Mold would appear as white-to-grayish spiderwebs on the surface of the growing medium as well as the greens (not to be confused with root hairs which are white, fuzzy, and only attached to roots). Once the microgreens germinated, I kept them near an open patio door and air vent to promote good airflow. I also picked out the odd withered sprout that I saw so it wouldn’t spoil the whole batch.

Applying weight to microgreen trays

One of the biggest ‘aha’ moments in this endeavor was learning that the seeds should be weighed down lightly to ensure good seed-to-soil contact and to encourage the roots to grow downward. While it’s possible to grow microgreens without weight (and a few types of microgreens should not be weighed down), applying weight helps to significantly improve germination and ensure a consistent, sturdy stand of microgreens that will also be easier to harvest. Growers with multiple trays of greens growing at a time will often stack them and place a weight on the top tray.

One handy trick if you’re growing in a takeout tray like I was is to invert the lid so it makes contact with the seeds and place soup cans or other small weights on top. Unfortunately I realized that I hadn’t filled my tray with enough growing medium for the inverted lid trick so I laid the weight (a beer stein) onto the surface of the medium with a piece of wax paper in between.

The microgreen blackout period

Learning that the trays should be kept in the dark until the seeds sprout was less of an ‘aha’ moment and more of an ‘oh, duh’ moment. When growing seedlings for the veggie garden I don’t need to place the trays in a dark place- if anything I’m keeping a watchful eye out to turn on the grow lights as soon as they sprout. But most microgreens (with a few exceptions) should be kept in the dark for a period of time while they first germinate and start growing. The typical length of the blackout period depends on the type of microgreen you’re growing. Bootstrap Farmer has an awesome microgreen cheat sheet that covers the technique and blackout period for just about every microgreen you can think of.

If you’re stacking microgreen trays on top of each other, that can help to provide darkness (although they may still need a few more days in darkness even after unstacking). In my case with just one tray and the weight on top I wasn’t sure if some light would still creep in. To be sure the seeds were kept in total darkness, I placed the tray in a closed cupboard but still checked on it multiple times a day. I took it out and removed the weight once the seeds had started sprouting.

Results and lessons learned

After having taken the time to do my homework before just throwing down seed, I did have slightly more success with growing microgreens. They mostly sprouted and I had no mold issues…however the greens did not root downward into the growing medium properly and after much waiting and hoping I could see they were starting to falter:

I suspect there are two main reasons why this happened. First, my seed starting mix was too dense (I used it for soil blocking so it’s not as light and fluffy as typical seed starting mixes). Second, I got too excited about taking the weight off the trays as soon as the sprouts started to emerge from the seed hulls. I think leaving the weight on for one extra day would have helped force them to root downward.

Undaunted, I’ve already started my next tray of microgreens! This time I’m opting for the super easygoing radish and trying vermiculite as a growing medium. I’ll be back with an update as soon as the radish results are in!

Radish microgreen update: The radish microgreen grow was a success! Growing in vermiculite and leaving the weight on for one more day after sprouting seemed to make all the difference. The stand of microgreens was consistent and upright, and the harvest from one small tray was substantial.

If you haven’t tried growing microgreens yourself (or maybe like me you’ve tried but failed) I hope you’ll give it a try…or a second, or third try! Once you’ve got the microgreen growing bug, it’s hard to quit…and a successful grow will come with persistence and practice!

So what is the best way to prevent bird and squirrel damage in the veggie garden?

Provide alternate food and water sources

Information is mixed on whether it’s a good idea to provide food and water for birds and squirrels in the garden. The reasoning behind providing food and water is that birds and squirrels will be less likely to go after your garden produce if there’s another source of food and water more readily available. Water is important in addition to food, as when a bird or squirrel takes a bite out of a juicy tomato or cucumber they’re often looking for the moisture.

Many sources say that providing food and water isn’t a good idea as it can make your yard more attractive to birds and squirrels and worsen the problem. To help ensure that providing food and water is an effective strategy and not just an invite to an all-you-can-eat garden buffet, keep some distance between the food and water source and the rest of your veggie garden. You’ll also need to be consistent- if there’s no food available and the water dries up, critters could turn to your garden instead! Ideally, plant plants that birds and squirrels can enjoy and that you don’t mind them eating. If you use deterrent techniques in and around the garden along with providing a food and water source away from the protected area, birds and squirrels may be less likely to spend their energy trying to get at your precious veggies.

Use bird and squirrel deterrents

There’s plenty of suggestions online for bird and squirrel deterrents, such as scarecrows, plastic owls or snakes, and shiny CDs or pie plates suspended on strings. Physical deterrents like these can help for a while, but birds and squirrels are smart and soon figure out that the deterrents pose no real threat. If you’re looking to protect plants just for a short time, such as while newly-sown seeds are germinating, physical deterrents may help. Moving the objects around regularly and changing up which deterrents you can also help to put off the birds and squirrels a while longer, but even then they might catch on. Some gardeners use motion-activated sprinklers to deter wildlife, but their ability to sense squirrels and smaller birds may be questionable. If you happen have a dog that you can safely let out in the garden (i.e., without damaging your veggies), they are probably the most effective bird and squirrel deterrent around!

Plant unappetizing plants

While many garden plants are attractive to squirrels, there are some plants they dislike. Interplanting unappealing plants strategically throughout the garden may help to conceal and protect the the more enticing plants from squirrels.

Squirrels tend to avoid daffodils, alliums (including onions and garlic), geraniums, native goldenrod, hyacinths, and mint (friendly PSA- remember to keep mint contained!)

Birds may be trickier to deter by planting specific plants, although some sources suggest that they are put off by garlic, citronella, and mint.

Apply bird and squirrel repellents

Another way to keep birds and squirrels away from the garden is to use repellent substances. Chili powder is a well recognized squirrel repellent, but it doesn’t affect birds. Chili powder can be sprinkled around plants or used as a spray- but be careful not to spray it on plants you intend to eat soon! A spray made of crushed garlic can also be an effective repellant but can leave a garlicky aroma on your plants- again you’ll want to avoid spraying anything soon-to-be-harvested! There are also commercially available deterrent products such as Bonide Repels-All (which works on squirrels and other mammals, but not birds). Some studies show that the active ingredient in Bird-Stop (methyl anthranilate, a derivative of concord grapes) can be effective at deterring birds, while other studies do not support this claim. This is also an active ingredient in grape Kool-Aid so if you only have a couple small shrubs or trees to protect it may be worth a try. Mix four packets of grape Kool-Aid in a gallon (3.8L) of water, then spray the plant and the ripening fruit. There is also some evidence to suggest spraying plants and fruits with a mixture of 5 pounds of table sugar dissolved in 2 quarts (1.9L) of hot water can help to repel birds.

Be sure that the repellent product you choose will repel the critters you need it to and can be used in the garden around edible plants. Keep in mind that repellents will need to re-applied fairly regularly to remain effective, especially after rain.

Install bird netting and squirrel-proof fencing

For heavy-duty protection against bird and squirrel damage, you may want to use netting or fencing to protect your crops.

When it comes to using bird netting, you’ll want to be careful about the netting you choose and how you install it to ensure birds and squirrels don’t become tangled and die. Look for a high-quality, UV-treated netting that will last for multiple seasons. You’ll want to find netting with holes less than 1/4" (6 mm) wide that will not trap birds, and make sure it is stretched relatively tightly as floppy, tangled netting can also ensnare birds. Use stakes or build a support frame to secure the netting and keep it taught. A determined squirrel can likely break through bird netting but it may be enough of a hassle that they choose to look elsewhere for food.

If you’re planning on using fencing, keep in mind that squirrels are excellent climbers (and of course birds will fly over any fence). You’ll need to cover the ‘airspace’ above your garden beds and not just the sides. Chicken wire, or better yet hardware cloth, can be used to fashion protective cages or boxes around your plants. Squirrels can also dig so you’ll want to bury the bottom edge of the cage or fence at least 6 inches below the soil. If you’re mainly interested in discouraging birds and squirrels from digging up newly planted seeds, you can loosely tent chicken wire over the seeded area and fasten the edges (or attach it to the edges of a raised bed) then remove it once your seedlings start to grow.

Ultimately, the decision of how best to manage birds and squirrels in your garden comes down to your gardening style and how big of a threat birds and squirrels are. If you enjoy wildlife in your garden and are OK with some potential losses, a more hands-off approach will suffice. If you’re dealing with a large population of birds or squirrels and you want to keep losses to a minimum, you’ll likely want to invest in bird-and-squirrel-proof infrastructure. So long as the technique is humane and makes you feel satisfied in your own garden, that is the best approach!

But what needs to be done to prepare garden beds in spring?

Warm up the soil before planting

Even once the warm weather arrives, garden soil can be stubbornly slow to reach warm enough temperatures for seeds to germinate and plants to grow. There are a few techniques you can use to warm up the soil sooner:

• If your garden was mulched before winter set in, pull the mulch aside so the soil surface can be exposed to the warmth of the sun (this also makes it easier for seeding).
• Keep in mind that soil in raised beds will typically warm up faster because the volume of soil is lower and it’s exposed to warmer air.
• Black plastic silage tarps can be used on the soil surface to help capture the sun’s heat and warm the soil. Clear plastic sheeting will warm the soil even more quickly and will ‘solarize’ the soil- which helps to kill soil-borne pathogens but may also harm beneficial soil life.
• You can also apply a thick layer of well-aged compost onto the surface of the soil to plant into.

Different crops have different preferred soil temperatures for germinating and growing. There’s no rush to get heat-loving crops in the ground if the soil isn’t yet staying consistently warm enough for them to grow.

Ensure the soil is dry enough to work

Soggy soil can be a problem in springtime with rainy weather and snowmelt (in some areas) saturating the ground. Wet soil ideally shouldn’t be walked on or worked as this can cause compaction and degrade the soil structure. Soil that is too wet can also cause seeds and seedlings to rot.

Some of the same techniques that can be used to warm the soil can also help the soil to dry out for spring planting. Tarps help to protect the soil surface from excess rainfall, and raised beds typically drain faster than in-ground beds.

If you consistently have drainage issues especially in spring, consider building up your in-ground beds slightly and incorporate lots of organic matter throughout the season to optimize drainage. You may also want to use a thick layer of wood chips in garden pathways to minimize compaction and to keep your boots from churning up a muddy mess!

So how do you know when the soil is dry enough to be worked? You can test this by forming a ball of soil in your hand and applying gentle pressure to it- the soil should crumble easily rather than sticking together or forming a ‘ribbon’.

Clean up leftover plant debris

Many gardeners leave some plant debris in the ground over winter to help feed the soil and provide shelter for overwintering beneficial insects. In most cases you’ll want to remove dead plant debris in the spring to to create a clean, level surface to seed or transplant into. Sometimes you can leave dead plant roots in the ground and simply cut off the stems at ground level, amend the soil, then seed or transplant around them. If the roots are too thick and it’s awkward to plant around them, pull them out and compost them.

Tackle problematic weeds

While you garden beds are still empty in spring, take the opportunity to tackle persistent weed problems. If you’re dealing with nasty perennial weeds with underground root systems you may want to dig or fork them out before any plants go in. If you’re dealing mostly with annual weeds that are spreading by seed, you might want to limit the amount of cultivation you do in spring and instead consider applying a thick layer of well-aged compost as a mulch that can help prevent weed seeds from sprouting and reaching the soil surface. Tarps can also be used strategically to help kill off weeds before planting. Research your most problematic weeds to see if there are specific steps you can take in spring that will save you from weeding headaches (and backaches) throughout the season.

Add soil amendments and nutrients

Once the ground is workable, spring is great time to apply or work in compost to help build organic matter in the soil. If your soil is lacking nutrients, you’ll also want to apply fertilizer prior to spring planting. Just be cautious not to apply significant quantities of nitrogen around perennial plants too early in the season, as this can stimulate a flush of tender growth that could get killed off in a cold snap. If you need to raise or lower the PH of your soil fall is usually the best time to apply PH-changing agents, but if you missed the fall window go ahead and apply them in spring- better late than never!

Set-up garden infrastructure

As a final step to preparing your spring garden beds you’ll want to install garden infrastructure (e.g., trellises, stakes, arches, cages, irrigation lines) either just before or just after planting. If you wait too long to install infrastructure it can be difficult to delicately weave the structures, wires, and lines around larger plants, and you could damage the root systems by poking stakes into the ground.

It can be hard to spend the time in spring to properly prepare our garden beds- either because we’re eager to get planting, or because we’re eager to hurry inside and warm up our hands! But a well-prepared garden bed will lead to more abundant harvests throughout the season. So hold off for a sunny spring day, and spend a few hours to get your garden in shape for a successful growing season!

Ways to use compost in the garden

There are a few key reasons to add compost to your garden:

Compost adds organic matter that improves the structure of both sandy soils and clay soils. It also provides food for beneficial organisms that improve the health of your soil.

Compost can provide a slow-release source of key nutrients that plants need. The amount of nutrients contained in the compost depends on the materials used to make it. Many types of compost contain relatively low nutrient concentrations.

Compost can also be used as a mulch which can help your soil retain moisture and, when applied in a layer several inches thick can help to suppress weeds.

Depending on which of these benefits you’re aiming for, you’ll want to choose a compost (or combination of composts) accordingly.

Types of compost

Keeping in mind the various ways we can use compost in the garden, let’s delve into some of the commonly available types of compost and their uses:

Manure-based compost (including bagged manure)

Manure-based composts often consist of decomposed cow, sheep, or horse dung along with the bedding material. While there are slight differences in nutrient concentrations and organic matter levels, manure from these animals is generally interchangeable so long as it is well decomposed. Manure-based composts provide both a good source of organic matter that can help improve soil structure as well as a dose of nutrients. They are often incorporated directly into the soil as an amendment or could be used as a mulch.

There are also composted poultry (chicken, turkey) manures available which provide a more highly concentrated dose of nutrients. These are used primarily as fertilizers rather than soil amendments.

Manure-based composts can be sold in bulk (see ‘commercial compost’ below) or in bags at your local garden center. Composted poultry manure may also be dried and sold as pellets.

Mushroom compost

Mushroom compost is a type of commercial compost that consists of growing material from mushroom farms. It is typically a combination of aged manure, straw, and gypsum. Mushroom compost is a good source of both organic matter and some nutrients. You can find mushroom compost sold as a bagged product or available in bulk from a mushroom farm. If you have access to mushroom compost it is a good soil amendment. There is mixed information about mushroom compost containing ‘high levels of salts’ that could harm plants- some sources say it’s a concern, others say it’s no different than any manure-based compost. To be cautious you could start with smaller doses or experiment in a small area of your garden.

Worm compost (vermicompost)

Vermicompost, also called worm castings, is not technically a compost but a byproduct of the digestive process of specific types of worms as they break down food waste and other organic materials. Vermicompost typically comes in smaller quantities as a bagged product and can be pricey compared to other types of compost (unless you make your own!) It may not make sense to use as a soil amendment in large quantities, but can be incorporated in smaller areas, containers, and in seed starting mixes to add a boost of organic matter, microbes, and a light dose of nutrients.

Leaf mold

Leaf mold sounds like a kind of fungus or disease, but it’s just decomposed dry leaves that gardeners collect in fall and compost down. Leaf mold is not especially nutrient rich but it is high in organic matter, as such it can be useful as a soil amendment or makes an excellent mulch. Since dry leaves are abundant and readily available it’s relatively easy and inexpensive to gather enough material to produce leaf mold in large quantities.

Municipal and commercial bulk compost

Municipal compost is produced by collecting kitchen scraps and/or yard waste from the local community and making sure the compost ‘heats up’ to destroy weed seeds and pathogens. Commercial bulk compost on the other hand can come from a number of sources, often with manure as one of the components, and how well decomposed it is can vary depending on the supplier’s process. Municipal compost is a great resource to help improve soil structure or use as a mulch, but it’s typically low in nutrients. Nutrient levels in commercial compost will depend on the source materials. Be sure to ask questions about the inputs, the nutrient analysis, and composting process before applying bulk compost to your garden.

Homemade compost

Composting at home is an easy and inexpensive way to have a compost source for your garden. Homemade compost is typically lower in nutrients than manure-based composts, however it’s a great source of organic matter to incorporate into your soil. Homemade compost can also be used as a mulch but depending on how much input material you’re able to collect it may be challenging to produce in large enough quantities to build up a thick layer. For more information the basics of composting and how to compost at home check out Compost: Add Life to Your Garden

Things to watch out for in compost

Unfortunately, sometimes adding compost to your garden can do more harm than good. Here are some things to watch out for when choosing a compost:

Unfinished compost

Unfinished compost poses a risk to your garden because if the composting process has not fully completed it can ’lock up’ nutrients that your plants need and cause deficiencies. Also the compost may continue to generate heat as it breaks down that can harm your plants. If you’re making your own compost at home be sure that the compost is ready before using it - it should be dark brown, smell ’earthy’, and should not have large un-composted pieces of material. Bagged compost and municipal compost is typically fully broken down. For commercial bulk compost, be sure to ask questions about the process so you can satisfy yourself that you’re getting compost that’s ready to be used.

Weed seeds and disease

Both homemade compost and manure-based composts may contain weed seeds or plant pathogens if they have not been composted properly to ensure that the compost ‘heats up’. For your homemade compost if you’re not confident that you’ll be able to manage your pile to get it to heat up (to at least 130°F) you may want to avoid putting weeds with seed heads or diseased plant material in. For commercial bulk composts, inquire about the composting process to ensure you don’t get compost full of weed seeds.

Persistent herbicides

There have been some stories lately of gardeners receiving composts containing persistent broadleaf herbicides - aminopyralid, clopyralid, and picloram. Persistent herbicides can contaminate manure-based composts as they can pass through the animals’ digestive systems and can be found in the bedding materials. They are not eliminated in the composting process. Persistent herbicide-laced compost can be a disaster for your garden as without remediation it can prevent some plants from growing properly for up to several years. Ask your supplier about their source materials to make sure they do not contain these types of herbicides. NC State Extension has an excellent article on this issue including detailed steps to assess and test your compost.

Compost with wood shavings

Some bulk compost producers add wood shavings to their manure compost. While this compost may be aged enough so the manure is decomposed, there can still be significant quantities of wood shavings in the mix that have not fully broken down. This product may be better suited as a landscaping mulch- if it’s applied to a veggie garden and incorporated into the soil it might lock up nitrogen and cause nutrient deficiencies. Again it’s important to ask questions of your supplier and test the compost if you have concerns.

The next time you go to add compost to your garden, give some consideration to how you intend to use it and choose the right material accordingly. By doing this you’ll not only avoid potential heartache of using the wrong compost, but you’ll be able to maximize the benefits of compost for the health of your plants!

Frost dates and growing season length

Your local frost dates are key drivers for when to start frost-sensitive seeds indoors. Your last frost date in spring provides a rough indication of when it may be safe to start planting out frost-sensitive plants (which are commonly started indoors). Your first frost date in fall provides a rough indication of when your frost-sensitive plants may start dying back from the cold. Some frost-sensitive crops may need to be started early indoors to have enough time to mature and produce a harvest in your growing season (the time between the last frost date and first frost date).

In Planter, the Growing Calendar will show you the Start Inside window where you can start seeds indoors for various plants. The Start Inside window in Planter takes into account your local frost dates and common recommendations for how many weeks ahead that plant should be started indoors. It’s important to know that its not necessarily safe to transplant outdoors exactly on your last frost date- for more detail on this check out When Can I Plant Outdoors?

The Start Inside window in Planter is a range and can be used as a guideline. You’ll still want to dial in your exact seed starting dates based on the factors we’re looking at in this article.

The seed varieties you choose

While there are good ‘rules of thumb’ we can follow for when to start specific plants indoors, it can also depend on the plant variety. Seed packets will usually give specific instructions for when that particular variety should be started indoors and this can sometimes vary for different varieties of the same plant. This guidance has to do with how long it takes the seeds to germinate, how fast the plant grows to a size where it is sturdy enough to be transplanted out, and how long it takes that variety to reach maturity and produce a harvest. As an example, some ‘superhot’ pepper varieties are slow to germinate and it’s often recommended to start them weeks earlier than sweet peppers.

For cool-season crops it can be a bit tricky as the packet instructions for starting seeds indoors will be sometimes be based around when you plan to transplant out- not strictly tied to your last frost date. How early you can transplant out cool-season crops depends on the plant’s tolerance for cold (especially while young), the weather patterns, and whether you can protect them if needed. If your seed packet doesn’t have adequate information on how early you can start seeds indoors (or if you’re using saved seeds), you’ll want to do some research and connect with local gardeners to see whether its advisable to start that type of seed indoors and if so how early.

Your indoor seed-starting set-up

A major consideration for how early to start seeds indoors comes down to how quickly the plant grows and how difficult it can become to keep it healthy indoors. Without planning for this it’s easy to run out of precious indoor growing space! Grow lights typically do not produce enough light to support a plant much beyond the seedling stage so they can become leggy and stunted (or they might just not fit under the lights!) Seedlings can quickly outgrow their trays and need to be potted up to larger pots to keep them from becoming root bound. If your seedlings become leggy or root bound, most if not all of the advantage from starting them indoors will be wasted. Starting seeds too early is a very common mistake as we’re always eager to get going- but it’s often unproductive and can even be detrimental to the plants. Plants grown from weak seedlings will not be as productive as those from healthy seedlings.

Your goals and how much work you want to do

Your goals and the work you’re willing to put in should weigh into your decision on when to start seeds indoors. On one end of the spectrum, if you want a productive garden but don’t have a lot of time or space to commit to seed starting, buying seedlings is likely a better bet than doing any seed starting indoors. On the other end, if you’re an advanced-level home gardener or you’re planning on selling seedlings and produce, you may want to get your plants growing as early as possible and can invest the required time (and money) to make that happen. As your plants grow bigger you’ll need to commit more time moving trays, adjusting lighting, potting up, watering, monitoring, and managing any issues that might arise. Maintaining a fertilizing schedule also starts to become a bigger task as your seedlings grow and need more nutrients.

It also depends on how much effort you’re willing to put into protecting your crops once they’re outside. If you have a plastic hoophouse or greenhouse you can plan on transplanting outside much earlier (or may even be able to move some of your indoor seed starting operation outdoors). If you don’t have infrastructure but you can commit to taking the time to protect your plants in case of a late frost you might be able to plant them out a week or two earlier- and can plan to start them earlier indoors. Planning to plant early outdoors is a gamble so you’ll want to have a ‘plan B’ in case the weather doesn’t cooperate and you need to keep your plants inside another week or two.

Every year that you start seeds indoors, you’ll gain valuable experience on what works and what doesn’t. How fast did your seedlings grow? How difficult was it to keep everything healthy indoors? Was there anything you wished you had started earlier or later? Be sure to keep track of this information using notes and events in Planter so you can confidently answer the question ‘When is the best time for me to start my seeds indoors?’

‘Curry’ is actually a loose, catch-all term that doesn’t properly refer to any specific dish. In its originating culture, each dish would have its own unique name. That being said, many dishes that could be loosely grouped as ‘curry-style’ dishes can be created using many of the same core plants in the garden. Let’s explore some potential ways to plan a culinary curry garden in Planter!

Curry garden base plan

Our sample curry garden base plan starts with a standard 4’ x 8’ garden in Planter. We’ve filled the garden with uber-versatile plants that form the backbone of many great curry dishes:

• Garlic
• Ginger
• Cilantro
• Hot peppers
• Tomatoes
• Onions

Garlic and cooking onions were placed on the outside because they are slow growers and need to be harvested by pulling or forking them out of the soil. Two hot pepper plants might not seem like a lot, but they’ll likely be prolific enough to provide your family with ample chili harvests (of course if you’re major spice lovers feel free to add more!) While cilantro is associated with cuisines from some of the hotter parts of the world, it actually can’t take the heat all that well and has a tendency to bolt. Because of this, you might want to plan to plant your cilantro in successions.

Roma tomatoes were chosen because they are a nice meaty tomato that work well for cooking. Ginger is kept in containers because a) it grows slowly and needs to be started indoors well in advance if you live in a cooler climate and b) the containers can be moved and positioned around the garden so the plants receive dappled sun- ginger loves the heat but not direct, scorching sunlight.

When choosing locations for the plants in your own plan, be sure to position them so they’ll be easily accessible for harvesting and where they won’t shade each other out unintentionally. This base plan is just a starting point that you can adapt to your unique garden conditions.

If you happen to have some more space to play with in your garden, consider branching out into some specific cuisines:

Thai curry garden plan

Thai food is vibrant and features an array of different veggies. To prepare some tasty Thai dishes, the following plants were added to the base plan:

• Peas
• Eggplant
• Carrots
• Lemongrass
• Thai basil
• Thai mint
• Peanuts
• Dwarf lime

The Thai curry garden plan incorporates most of the plants from the base curry garden plan and adds on from there. The serrano chiles were swapped for Thai chiles, and more garlic and onions were added. Lemongrass is a staple ingredient in many Thai dishes- its included in a container so it can be started early indoors and easily transitioned outside. Mint was also added in a container to prevent it from spreading and taking over the entire garden! Basil plays more nicely so it can be incorporated right into the garden bed. If possible, try to find Thai varieties of mint and basil for a more authentic flavor.

For something slightly more adventurous peanuts and a dwarf lime were added to the plan- these ingredients are often incorporated in Thai dishes or used as accompaniments. Peanuts can grow well even in somewhat northern climates as long as you select an appropriate variety and ensure they are planted with enough time to mature. Limes on the other hand are frost sensitive, but dwarf varieties can be grown as container plants that can be brought inside over winter. If overwintering a lime tree seems like too much work, forgo it and plant something else instead- just be sure not to fill the middle of the garden space with plants that will be hard to reach.

Indian curry garden plan

The Indian curry garden plan also works off the same base curry garden plan, but includes some unique ingredients favored in Indian cooking:

• Turmeric
• Cauliflower
• Potatoes
• Okra
• Kidney beans
• Mustard
• Spinach

Turmeric is a plant that spreads and grows by rhizomes, similar to ginger. Since turmeric isn’t available in Planter (yet!) one workaround is to create a custom variety of ginger and name it turmeric (turmeric isn’t technically a ginger variety but this is just a quick fix). Like ginger, turmeric is grown in pots so it can be started well in advance and moved around in the garden to capture the perfect balance of sun and shade.

Cauliflower and potatoes are included in the plan as core ingredients in the popular and delicious dish ‘aloo gobi’. Okra is added as the key component of ‘bhindi masala’, and the kidney beans can be used to prepare delicious ‘rajma’. With drying beans you’ll want to have several plants to get a yield that is substantial enough to make bean-based dishes. Rounding out the list we have spinach and mustard- spinach can be used to make a mouth-watering ‘saag paneer’ and along with mustard greens (and other mixed greens) can be used to create delicious ‘saag’ curries. And if your mustard bolts and goes to seed no worries- mustard seed is also a key spice in many Indian dishes!

We hope these curry garden plans have provided some inspiration to plan a fun and practical cuisine-themed garden! Having all the veggies at hand to create a whole range of dishes will help you make the best use of your garden produce in the kitchen. Planter makes it easy and fun to explore garden design possibilities to compliment your culinary adventures!

In November 2023, the USDA released updated plant hardiness zones. The new map shows that many areas have become warmer in the past decade, with some areas moving up one or two zones.

When starting a garden, understanding the growing climate in your area is an important first step. There are two key pieces of information to know about your local growing climate: your hardiness zone and frost dates. While sometimes represented together, hardiness zones and frost dates are separate concepts. Read on to learn what they are and why they matter for a successful garden.

What are Plant Hardiness Zones?

In North America, plant hardiness zones commonly refer to the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) Plant Hardiness Zones. Canada has developed its own hardiness zone system, but for practical purposes the USDA zones are commonly used. There are many plant hardiness zone systems in use around the world.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map divides the USA and North America into zones based on average annual minimum temperatures. The lower the zone number, the lower the average annual minimum temperature in that area. There is a 10°F difference in the average annual minimum temperature between each zone. Zones are further subdivided into 5°F segments denoted by “a” or “b”.

Hardiness zones are a guideline for determining which perennial plants can survive winter in your area. When buying perennials, the tag typically indicates which zone(s) that plant is hardy in.

USDA hardiness zones don’t consider the myriad of other factors that affect how a plant will perform in a particular area. They also don’t account for “microclimates”- local variations on growing conditions within a zone. Hardiness zones are a starting point, but experience will hone your instincts for which plants will flourish in your garden.

Frost Dates: Why Do They Matter?

If you garden in a temperate climate, it is important to understand your first and last frost dates. The last frost date is the last day in spring when a frost occurs (i.e., when air temperatures reach 32°F (0°C) or lower). The first frost date is the first day in fall when a frost occurs. Frost dates can be estimated by using average historical frost dates from local weather stations.

Knowing your average last frost date helps you decide when to start planting your frost-sensitive crops outdoors. Deciding when to plant also depends on how willing you are to risk a late frost! Again, with experience you’ll be able to dial in the best time to plant in your area.

The number of days between your last and first frost date is the length of your growing season. Depending on the length of your growing season, plants that take longer to mature may need a head start indoors.

Planter does the work of calculating this for you! First, set-up your location in the app settings. For each plant, Planter provides a Growing Calendar that is customized to your location. The Growing Calendar shows which plants can be started outdoors, which should be started indoors and transplanted, and when:

Harvest your herbs

Your first instinct might be to just hack down every little bit of greenery that’s left on your herb plants. Before you do, note that some herbs are perennial and some are annual. Annual herbs such as basil and cilantro will typically die off in cold winters. Biennials such as dill and parsley may come back next season, but they are typically grown and harvested as annuals. Perennials such as thyme, oregano, mint, and sage can often survive a winter, depending on the variety, how cold your winters get, and the soil conditions. Since annuals die off in winter, you might opt to harvest them out completely when freezes are in the forecast.

You might also be tempted to hack back your perennial herbs to harvest as much as you can, but you’ll want to proceed more cautiously. While perennial herbs can benefit from pruning in late summer several weeks before your first frost, if you harvest aggressively before winter they might not be able to heal and come back next season. Don’t cut too far down on the stems and don’t remove a significant portion of the plant.

Harvesting your herbs is probably the simplest approach (other than doing nothing), but you’ll likely end up with a glut of herbs to use up. Try drying your excess herbs or chopping them up and freezing them in ice cube trays topped off with water or oil.

Save herb seeds

If your herb plants have formed mature seed heads, take advantage and save seeds for next season! Dill, cilantro, and parsley are all examples of herbs that are fairly easy to save seed from. To save seeds from your herbs, be sure the seed pods on the plant are fully mature- they should be light brown, not green. Cut off the seed heads and allow them to fully dry out before storing them (this can take up to a couple weeks). Remove the fully dry seeds from the heads, then store them in paper sachets, airtight containers, or plastic baggies and label them with the plant/variety and the year. If you’re interested in learning more about seed saving, be sure to check out Seed Saving 101.

Cover your herbs

Herbs can be surprisingly cold-hardy, with some notable exceptions such as basil. If you cover your herbs with row cover or clear plastic sheeting you can potentially keep harvesting them into winter. Annuals can still die off if temperatures drop too low, but covering them offers a few degrees of frost protection that can let you keep harvesting them just that little bit longer. Perennials often keep their leaves through winter- so long as they are accessible under the cover and you have the willingness to get out there, they can potentially be lightly harvested through winter. Even if you don’t intend to harvest them in winter, covering your perennial herbs, along with applying a thick layer of organic mulch, can help increase their chance of survival. For information on protecting plants from the cold check out Season Extension Techniques: Keep the Growing Going!

Bring herbs indoors

If your herbs are growing in containers you might be able to easily transition them indoors. In fact, it may be best to bring them indoors as even hardy perennial herbs may not survive freezing temperatures outside in a container. If you do bring your container herbs inside, check the plants thoroughly for pests and consider refreshing the soil to avoid bringing in unwanted houseguests. Otherwise, you can take cuttings from your herbs and root them in water (this works well with basil, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme to name a few). Herbs prefer full sunlight so to grow them indoors you’ll want to consider using grow lights to keep them as healthy as possible. If your herb cuttings fail to take root all is not lost- just start new herbs from seed as a fun indoor winter project!

Do nothing

Last but not least, you can simply let nature take its course. Without any extra effort you might find that your herb garden mostly bounces back come spring. Perennial herbs can make a comeback, semi-tender herbs might surprise you with their resilience, and some herbs might have self-seeded so you get brand-new plants as soon as the weather warms up! As mentioned, keep in mind that herbs left in containers outside are less likely to survive winter unaided (depending on the size of the container and the temperatures). Also be aware that some herbs, such as lavender, are fairly cold-hardy but will rot and die if they are left in wet, poorly-drained soil. Doing nothing is a bit of a gamble, but if you happen to end up with holes in your herb garden next season consider it an excuse to try growing some brand-new herb varieties!

Herbs can be sturdy winter warriors, but they are not all created equal! Decide what you want to do with each plant as the snow approaches, then hunker down and start planning in Planter for an abundant herb garden next year!

Choosing a garlic variety

When it comes to choosing garlic varieties it’s important to look for varieties that are adapted to your region. Generally speaking, ‘softneck’ garlic varieties tend to be grown in warmer climates where ‘hardneck’ varieties tend to be grown in colder climates, as they require a prolonged period of cold temperatures to grow properly. You might also come across ‘elephant garlic’ which is technically a leek even though it forms bulbs and can be grown and used similarly to garlic.

Aside from deciding whether to grow softneck or hardneck varieties, you’ll want to consider other traits. Some garlic varieties are hardier in extreme cold, and of course there are different flavor profiles and levels of garlicky intensity. Some hardneck garlic varieties have purple papery skins and many say they have a unique flavor. Ask seasoned gardeners in your area which garlic varieties they prefer, or otherwise you’ll have to do some experimentation to find your favorites!

While you can technically plant garlic from grocery store bulbs, this is not recommended as you can’t select an appropriate variety for your region, the cloves tend to be old and dry from transport and sitting around, and if it’s not organic the garlic might be treated with an anti-sprouting agent. For the best shot at success you’ll want to source ‘seed garlic’ from your local garden center, big box store, or online. Also be sure to plan your garlic planting in Planter so you’ll know roughly how much seed garlic to buy for the area you intend to plant.

When to plant garlic

There’s a plethora of different recommendations for the best time to plant garlic. Essentially you’re trying to balance two factors: you want to get the garlic in the ground before the soil freezes and with enough time that the garlic can start to set roots to survive winter, however you don’t want to get garlic in the ground so early that it gets confused and pushes out a lot of new leaf growth before winter. While a bit of green poking out of the soil should be fine, you don’t want your garlic to put a lot of energy into new leaf growth that could potentially suffer from frost damage. As a guideline, garlic should be planted roughly two weeks before your first frost date in fall. If the weather forecast is unseasonably warm, you may want to hold off on planting until cooler temps start rolling in. On the other hand if the cold is setting in extra-quick, you might want to hustle to get your garlic in.

In a pinch garlic can also be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring, just be aware that the bulbs will be smaller and it may take longer for your garlic to be ready to harvest. You’ll also want to ‘vernalize’ the seed garlic by putting it in a baggie in the fridge for several weeks so it feels like it has gone through a winter.

How to plant garlic

To plant garlic you’ll want to separate the bulbs into individual cloves, leaving the papery skins on each clove. Amend the soil with compost if needed, and plant each clove with the pointed end up and flat end facing down.

How deep to plant your garlic is also a topic with some conflicting advice. It depends on where you live, your soil type, and whether you plan to add a layer of mulch on top. In very cold climates gardeners may plant garlic up to 4” deep to protect it from winter chill, but in less extreme regions 2-3” is sufficient. If you’re planting into a heavier clay soil you may not want to plant your garlic as deeply so the cloves don’t rot over winter. Gardeners often mulch their garlic to help protect it from temperature extremes in winter- if you’re going to be applying a thick layer of mulch you won’t need to plant your garlic quite as deep.

While you can grow garlic in containers, in colder regions you’ll need to take steps to prevent it from taking damage from deep freezing. Consider using extra mulch in and around the container and shelter the container or bring it into a cold garage where it won’t be exposed to extreme temperatures.

Once you have your garlic planted, avoid watering it (unless you’re experiencing a fall drought) or fertilizing it until the coming year. Excess water can cause the cloves to rot and adding fertilizer can stimulate garlic to start putting on new leaf growth that you don’t really want until the following spring.

If you haven’t grown garlic before, it might seem like a pain in the neck 🙂. But growing garlic is totally worthwhile even if it means you have to go out on a chilly, windy day and dig around in cold wet soil! You’ll be amply rewarded with your garlic harvest next year…you might even be able to skip buying garlic from the store completely!

Squirrels

Squirrels become extra active garden thieves in fall as they’re on a mission to store food for winter. While they’re well-known for smuggling nuts, seeds, and fruits, squirrels will also nibble on many fruiting crops and can dig around and damage newly planted seeds and seedlings. There might be some level of squirrel damage that is tolerable but if you tend to take heavy harvest losses from squirrels you’ll need to take action. There are edible-garden safe repellent sprays available that can keep squirrels at bay. You can also try sprinkling cayenne pepper around your plants and in your bird feeder (if you have one) as the spice will deter squirrels- just be sure not to dust it directly on a plant you’re about to eat! If all else fails, you might need to resort to building a squirrel-proof enclosure out of sturdy chicken wire or hardware cloth.

Slugs

Slugs are a garden pest that can make a season-round appearance, however they prefer damp, cool conditions - so fall (and spring…and wet summers) are prime time for slugs. Slugs like to hide in the shade of plants and debris during the day and come out to feed at night. Because of this, one of the best ways to control slugs in the garden is to remove potential hiding spots- clear away excess mulch, remove plant debris, and stay on top of pruning. To go on the anti-slug offensive you can either get out there at night with a flashlight to handpick slugs off plants, or leave a trap of damp boards or newspaper and remove any slugs hiding underneath in the morning.

Winter cutworms

While there are many types of cutworms that can be active at other times of the year, particularly spring, winter cutworms are active and feeding in late fall and warmer parts of winter. Like other cutworms, winter cutworms quite literally cut down the base of the plants they feed on (young, small plants are most susceptible). They can also move up the plant and munch on the leaves as well. Prevention is the best medicine for cutworms- keep your garden clear of weeds and debris that could provide hiding spots. You can also go out at night with a flashlight to find cutworms (they hide in soil and debris during the day)- handpick them and dispatch them. While no-till gardening methods have many benefits for your soil, if you’re having an especially hard time with cutworm damage you may want to consider tilling the soil to help kill them off and destroy potential habitat. Applying products with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can also help to control cutworms.

Grubs

Grubs are usually thought of as a lawn pest, but did you know they can also attack your veggie garden? Grubs are the larvae of several insects such as Japanese beetles and June bugs, which can be equally destructive in their adult form. Grubs tend to be most active in spring and fall whereas beetles tend to be more active in summer. Grubs usually feed on plant roots, resulting in stunted growth and death, although they can feed above ground as well. If you’re seeing birds or animals digging in specific parts of your garden as well as struggling plants, you might have a grub infestation. Before treating for grubs, dig up a test patch in the area to see if several grubs are present. If there is a significant grub population, consider applying beneficial nematodes or Bacillus thuringiensis products designed for grub control (just double check that any product you select is safe for use in veggie gardens).

White mold

White mold is a descriptive name for fungal disease typically caused by Sclerotinia sclerotiorum. As the name suggests, white mold is a white, fuzzy, watery-looking mold that often starts out on the plant stem then spreads to other parts of the plant. White mold can become especially problematic in fall with the onset of cooler, damp weather. Also, if you’re using season extension techniques and growing under plastic or row covers, the reduced airflow can cause white mold to proliferate. Ensuring your plants are spaced properly is key to promote good air circulation that can help stave off white mold. If you can, open up or vent your coverings during the day. Any infected plants should be removed immediately (be sure to sanitize your tools afterwards). Also, staying on top of weeding and clearing out plant debris can help by reducing potential hosts for white mold spores.

Don’t take your eye off the ball in your fall garden! Even if you’re not outside as regularly as in summer, stay vigilant for these and other fall pests and take action as soon as you spot them to protect your precious fall harvests!

Seed saving considerations

On the surface, seed saving is as simple as harvesting the fully-mature seeds, drying them, and storing them for future planting. The trick is you might not get the plant variety that you expected growing from those seeds. To understand why this could happen, we need to know a bit about how pollination works in different plants:

• Some plant species have male and female flowers on separate plants (such as asparagus and spinach),
• Some have male and female flowers on the same plant (such as cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins), and
• Some have flowers that have both male and female parts, known as ‘perfect flowers’. Some of these plants can pollinate themselves (‘self-pollinating’), while others cannot (peas, peppers, tomatoes, and eggplant are examples of self-pollinating plants with perfect flowers).

So why does this matter? It has to do with the likelihood of ‘cross-pollination’. If a flower happens to be cross-pollinated with pollen from a different variety of the same plant, the resulting seeds can have wildly different combinations of traits passed down from the parent plants. You might discover a pleasant-tasting new variety, or you might end up with something totally unappetizing. In plants with ‘perfect flowers’ that can also self-pollinate, the chances of cross-pollination are much lower compared to plants that rely on pollinators to move pollen around from flower to flower.

Avid seed savers use many techniques to reduce the chances of cross-pollination. They maintain minimum separation distances between different varieties of the same plant, they grow different varieties at different times, and they may even pollinate flowers by hand and cover the flowers with baggies. Even if you don’t want to go to this extent you should still consider giving seed saving a try, especially from self-pollinating plants with perfect flowers.

Another consideration when saving seeds is whether the plant varieties you are growing are heirlooms or hybrids. Heirloom plants, so long as they are not cross-pollinated by other varieties, will consistently produce seeds that are ‘true-to-type’ - that is, plants grown from the seeds will have the same traits as the parent plant. Hybrid (“F1”) plants on the other hand are genetically unstable and because of this, even if they are not cross-pollinated, the seeds could still produce plants that are wildly different from the parent plant. For more detailed information on the differences between heirloom and hybrid plant varieties check out What Are Heirloom Varieties?

How to save seeds

The first step in saving seeds is keeping accurate records of which plant varieties you have growing where in your garden, so you know which varieties you are saving seeds from (this is where Planter comes in!)

Next of course is to let your plants go to seed. In fruiting plants this means letting the fruits achieve full ripeness (in some cases, going beyond the ripeness you would normally eat them at). In non-fruiting plants this means leaving the plant in the garden until it produces flowers and seed pods. Be sure to account for this in your garden plan, as leaving plants to go to seed means you won’t be able to make use of that space for some time.

The seed saving process varies widely depending on the plant you are saving seed from- you’ll want to do some research to determine when to harvest seeds from each type of plant and how to process them.

Once your seeds are harvested and completely dry (emphasis on completely; they will rot if not), store them in airtight containers or baggies in a cool, dark place. Label them with the variety name and the date you harvested them, to keep track of how fresh the seed is for planting.

Easy plants for seed saving

Dill: dill is a great candidate for seed-saving because it self-seeds so readily! If you want to keep growing dill in the same spot, simply leave the dill to flower and form seeds. More than likely it will drop seeds that will sprout and grow new dill plants next season. If you want dill in other parts of your garden you’ll want to collect the seed heads when they are brown, hard, and dry. Harvest the entire head of seeds carefully as they readily drop their seeds; then shake or rub the seeds off into a container.

Cilantro: cilantro is another great plant to save seed from, as it tends to go to seed very quickly! Cilantro seeds are ready to harvest when they are round, brown, and dry. Cilantro seeds are saved similarly to dill- you can cut off entire seed heads then shake or rub the individual seeds into a container. It’s handy to have an ample supply of cilantro seed on hand so you can sow multiple successions of cilantro throughout the season without having to stress if it bolts early!

Tomatoes: saving seeds from tomatoes can seem daunting but its not too tricky. To save seeds from tomatoes first cut them in pieces so you can scoop out the gel along with the seeds. It’s recommended to ferment your tomato seeds for the best longevity and germination. To do this, scoop the gel and seeds into a glass container then add enough water to cover the seeds. Put a piece of paper towel on the container and secure it with an elastic band. Leave the seed mixture in a warm place (ideally not within smelling distance!) for about two weeks. After this time, dump the mixture into a fine mesh sieve and rinse the gunk off the seeds with running water. Spread the seeds out on a paper plate to dry completely, then store them in a container.

Peppers: saving seeds from peppers couldn’t be easier- just cut the pepper open and there are infinite seeds inside! Remove the seeds from the inner membrane and leave them on a paper plate to dry completely before storing. Be aware that if you grow hot peppers and mild peppers close to each other, there is a small chance that you could end up with a mixed variety. If some unexpected heat could pose a problem for you and your family, be sure to follow minimum isolation distances between pepper varieties so you don’t end up with a spicy surprise!

Radish: radish is another crop that readily goes to seed. If you are concerned about cross-pollination in your radishes, you may want to sow different varieties at different times. To save radish seeds, allow the pods to become large, brown, and dry on the plant. You can then pick or cut the pods off the plant. To get to the seeds inside you’ll need to crack the seed pods open and shake, rub or pick the seeds out. This isn’t the most efficient task in the world, but it’s a good project to tackle while watching some gardening videos on YouTube 🙂. The dried pods can be a bit prickly so you may want to protect your hands if they are sensitive.

Lettuce: when your lettuce bolts it can be quite disappointing- but if you let the process continue your lettuce plants will make beautiful flower stalks and eventually seeds. If you are worried about your lettuce varieties cross-pollinating, you can use a fine mesh bag or row cover to isolate the flower stalk. The seeds are ready when the flowers turn white and wispy (similar to what a dandelion would do). You can pick the seeds off of the flower heads and then fan them to blow away the flower whisps.

Try saving seeds from some of these plants, and if you find you enjoy seed saving then you can read up on more advanced seed saving techniques! If nothing else it’s a learning experience…and you might end up growing some truly unique plants!

Spinach

Considering spinach is often harvested for its tender baby leaves, it’s amazing just how cold-hardy it is. Depending on the conditions, spinach can still be going strong with minimal frost protection and snow on the ground! With added protection, some cold-climate gardeners are even able to overwinter spinach for harvests right through winter and into the following spring. Spinach is also a super fast-growing crop that can be ready to harvest in as little as 35 days- so even if you don’t feel like using season extension techniques you can still get a solid fall crop of spinach. And as the weather cools down there is less risk of your spinach bolting, meaning you can get a prolonged harvest if you only pick the outermost leaves. 

Kale

Kale is about as cold-hardy as plants come, which makes it a potential candidate for early fall sowing. That being said, like most every plant kale’s growth will slow to almost a standstill once the temperatures approach freezing. To get a fall (and potentially winter!) harvest of kale you’ll need at least 55 days for the plants to reach maturity. If you don’t have that long left in your growing season, you still have options to grow kale. You can look for pre-started kale transplants at your local garden center (although they might be hard to come by), or you can seed intensively and harvest baby kale leaves as a delicious delicacy!

Radishes

Radishes are a classic crop for fall planting as they grow so quickly and are also quite cold-hardy. Radishes can reach maturity in as little as 25 days, meaning you can keep on planting successions of radishes almost right to the bitter end of your growing season. Radishes grown in cooler, wetter weather can be less spicy than their summer-grown counterparts so if you’re not a fan of the typical radish bite you might like fall (and spring) grown radishes. If your radishes do not bulb up as your first frost date approaches you can also harvest them for their green tops, which can be cooked up in stir-fries and soups. If you’re after the radish greens you will want to pull your radishes before frost comes or otherwise use season extension techniques to protect them as the greens do tend to get droopy with the frost.

Lettuce

Lettuce is a semi-frost tolerant plant that grows at its best in cool-ish temperatures. If you grow loose-leaf lettuce as a cut-and-come-again crop, rather than aiming for a full-sized lettuce head, you will be able to harvest your lettuce much earlier. Ideally, look for lettuce varieties that are more cold-hardy and well-suited for late-season planting. While lettuce can handle a light frost, if a nighttime frost is in the forecast you may still want to temporarily cover your lettuce with row cover, plastic, bedsheets, or towels, as a preventative measure. Even if frost doesn’t take out the plant entirely, frost damage on the leaves can render them inedible.

Arugula

Arugula is a rather spicy green that may not appeal to everyone, but if you can handle its peppery punch it is a prime candidate for fall planting. Arugula can reach maturity in as little as 28 days and the seeds can germinate in cool soil. Like lettuce, arugula is semi-tolerant of frost- so you may want to err on the side of caution and cover it up if frost is in the forecast. Cut or pick just the outermost leaves of the arugula, leaving the growing crown intact, to keep the harvests going. Arugula is much less likely to bolt in the cooler weather, so you may be able to harvest it continuously until a freeze takes it out!

Bok choy

Bok choy, also known as pac choi or chinese cabbage, is a frost tolerant member of the brassica family that is a delicious addition in stir fries, soups, and noodle dishes. Some varieties of bok choy can be ready to harvest in as little as 30 days, but many can take 45-60 days– so be careful to select a variety that will be able to reach maturity in the remainder of your growing season. If your bok choy doesn’t quite reach full size by the time heavy frosts set in, you can still harvest it on the smaller side as ‘baby bok choy’.

Hakurei turnips

While the larger, standard grocery store turnips are typically slow-growing plants that take their time to mature, there are smaller ‘hakurei salad turnip’ varieties available that can be ready to harvest in as little as 35 days! Hakurei turnips are frost tolerant, and although the greens may take a beating with heavier frosts the roots will remain sweet, juicy, and crisp- just be sure to get them out of the ground before a hard freeze sets in. Or, like radish, if the roots don’t end up reaching full size you can at least use the tops to cook with. Hakurei turnips add nice variety to a late-season harvest that can often be mostly greens.

While the end of summer can be bittersweet, in the garden it’s the perfect time to get some new crops growing! Take advantage of the more comfortable temperatures to get outside and plant a fresh round of veggies for late-fall harvests!

Heat and drought can affect your plants in several ways. Every plant has an optimal growing temperature range- if temperatures exceed this range their growth will slow down and eventually stop (even if they have access to water). Some plants such as tomatoes and peppers will drop their flowers and fruit when the temperatures get too hot- so even if the plants are hanging in there they could struggle to produce a harvest. Other plants such as lettuce and leafy greens will bolt more quickly under stress caused by heat and drought. If there isn’t enough water available in the soil plants won’t be able to grow as fast as they otherwise would. Instead they try to preserve as much water as possible- and they might show symptoms such as curling leaves and wilting. To top it off, the heat can herald a whole different set of pest and disease issues that can take advantage of stressed-out plants. So how do we help our plants stay productive and healthy when the weather feels desert-like?

One of the best things we can do as gardeners to help our gardens manage through the heat is to make sure the garden is planned with the seasonal temperatures in mind. It’s important to remember that plants can be categorized as cool-season plants and warm-season plants. While there’s no rule that says you can’t grow cool-season plants in the warmer parts of the season, they will need more TLC to survive and stay productive. In other words, don’t beat yourself up if your lettuce kicks the bucket in a heat wave- it’s somewhat expected. Check the list of plants in Planter to see which plants are cool-season versus warm-season.

Warm-season crops generally grow better at higher temperatures, but even they have their limits. If you live in a particularly hot climate and tend to experience extreme high temperatures, you will want to research your plant and variety carefully to make sure you are growing plants that are adapted to your local conditions. Use notes and events in Planter to keep track of which varieties are performing well in the heat versus which are struggling, and reach out to experienced gardeners in your area for variety recommendations for upcoming years.

And while that’s all well and good, what’s a gardener to do when the plants are already in the ground and the high temperatures are rolling in?

The most important thing we can do to give our plants a helping hand is to make sure they have consistent access to water. Unfortunately watering is much harder to keep up with in the heat as the plant uses up more water and water evaporates faster from the soil. You might need to water every day, or in some cases even multiple times a day to keep the ground moist (don’t go overboard though!) Container plants will be especially prone to drying out- you may even want to consider putting them in a kiddie pool and filling it with a few inches of water if you’re not home to water them midday. While early morning is recommended as the best time to water, when it comes to surviving the heat you’ll need to give your plants water whenever they need it. Don’t believe myths that you can’t water in the middle of the day. If your plants are in dire need of water as long as you provide ample cool water they will appreciate the drink (don’t use hot water that sat in the hose outside all day!) While you may need to water more often during a heat wave and drought, you still want to make sure you are watering deeply to encourage your plant roots to go down deep to find water. Use notes and events to keep track of watering if you’re prone to forgetting which garden areas received water when, and for more info on deciding when and how much to water check out Watering: More than a Garden Chore.

Another key to combating the heat is to make sure your gardens have been mulched to keep the soil cool and to help keep water from evaporating as much as possible. Not only will mulch help your plants stay cool, but it also helps to keep weeds at bay. And while you may not feel like weeding in the heat, weeds do steal precious moisture and nutrients from your plants when they need it most. So get out there in the early morning or evening when the sun is less intense and try to reign in any weeds.

It can also be helpful to create shade for our plants to help keep them cooler. While most veggie plants appreciate full sun (with some exceptions), if the sun is causing them to overheat and suffer then creating shade can be helpful. While you can use shade cloth to cover entire sections of your garden, you can also DIY some shade with found materials around the house. Just be sure that anything you use provides ample ventilation and still allows some sun to reach your plants. You can also move your container plants to a partially-shaded location temporarily– this has the added benefit of keeping them from drying out as quickly.

Last but not least, if you are transplanting or seeding new plants in a heat wave, bear in mind that they will need extra-special watering attention to survive. If the heat will subside in a few days it would be better to wait until then to do your planting, but if the heat is unrelenting you might have no choice. Planting in the early evening can help to give them at least a few hours to settle in before the sun comes up the following day.

While it’s good to do what we can to help our plants through the heat, even the most experienced gardeners can have plants succumb to heat and drought. So don’t take it as a failure if some of your plants are struggling- count every plant that powers through as a win, and chalk the rest up to a learning experience for future years. Helping your plants beat the heat is challenging- especially when we don’t feel like being out in the heat either- but your efforts can be crucial to save your harvests!

To figure this out, check the seed packets (or research the plant variety) for the ‘days to maturity’. Different varieties of the same plant can have vastly different days to maturity, so it’s important to compare with variety-specific information. Think back to when you originally seeded the plant (if you’re using notes and events in Planter to keep track of your plantings this will be easy!) Has the plant been growing significantly longer than the expected days to maturity? If you used seedlings from a garden center you might have to estimate this. A small delay isn’t too concerning, but if you’re well past the expected days to maturity and the plant is not yet producing a harvest there could be an issue.

Be aware that different varieties perform best under specific conditions, so it might be typical for a particular plant to grow more slowly in your local climate. If you’ve ever grown this plant variety before, has it taken this long to grow in the past?

If you’ve concluded that your plants are growing too slow and it’s not just gardener’s impatience getting the better of you, you’ll need to do some sleuthing to figure out what could be causing the delay.

Weather

Weather conditions play a huge role in speeding up or slowing down plant growth. The impact of the weather depends on the plant, and on how consistent the weather pattern has been. For example, in my area the summer has been unusually cool, overcast, and rainy from July onwards. Some of the plants are loving it- the lettuce has never looked nicer for this time of year! But as for the tomatoes and peppers, the fruits have been slower to ripen than usual (although the plants are lush and green). In June, we had an intense heatwave and drought coupled with wildfire smoke that put just about every young, tender plant into survival mode and significantly slowed their growth. It’s important to talk with avid gardeners in your local area to understand the impact of the year’s weather on your plants. If everyone is experiencing unusually slow growth it’s more likely that the weather is the main culprit rather than a deficiency in your garden.

While you can’t control the weather, there are things you can do to help your plants adapt to weather conditions:

• Water consistently throughout a drought to help avoid drought stress, and use mulch to lock in moisture.
• Use shade cloth to help keep your plants cooler during heat waves.
• Make sure your soil has good drainage to help your plants ride out rainy spells.
• If you have access to one, use a plastic tunnel or greenhouse to accelerate the growth of heat-loving plants when the weather is cooler. But be sure to vent them if it gets too hot!

Nutrient deficiencies & soil characteristics

Another reason why your plants might be growing slower-than-expected is because they are lacking nutrients. Stunted plant growth is one common symptom of nutrient deficiency, however nutrient deficiencies are often accompanied by other symptoms such as leaf yellowing and/or browning. There are specific patterns of leaf discoloration and distortion that can appear depending on the nutrient that is lacking. The West Virginia University Extension Office has an excellent article that can help to identify which nutrient(s) might be missing based on the plant’s symptoms. A soil test is really the best way to know if there are enough nutrients available in the soil, but if you don’t want to do a test mid-season and the symptoms point to a possible deficiency you could apply a balanced organic fertilizer as a precaution. This isn’t a super-precise approach to fertilizing, but by applying balanced organic fertilizer it’s unlikely that you will cause a massive nutrient imbalance and it could help to remedy a potential deficiency.

If you’ve already been fertilizing regularly, it is unlikely that a lack of nutrients is causing slow plant growth. Problems with soil pH can prevent the plant from accessing nutrients even if they are available, which then causes stunted growth. If your soil pH is either too acidic or too alkaline, it will be difficult to remedy this mid-season. Be sure to get a pH test done so you can apply amendments ahead of the upcoming season. And if you are struggling with clay or sandy soil conditions, be sure to add compost to improve the soil for optimal plant growth.

Inconsistent watering

Inconsistent watering can significantly slow down plant growth, as growth processes depend on the plant being able to access sufficient water as needed. It’s important to note that overwatering can be as problematic as underwatering when it comes to slow growth. Overwatering can prevent the roots from uptaking oxygen and can lead to root rot, as well as leaching nutrients away. If you’re experiencing extended periods of rainy weather, often the best you can do is to make sure you are growing plants in soil with good drainage (containers and raised beds can help with this) and avoid adding to the problem with additional watering. A plastic tunnel or greenhouse can be helpful to control how much water your plants receive, especially if you live in an area prone to rainy conditions. On the other hand, if you’re experiencing dry spells it’s important to water regularly and to use mulch to help prevent the soil from drying out (unless you’re growing one of a few edible plants that prefer drier soils).

Lack of sunlight

Most vegetable plants require full sun to grow as quickly as possible. While the definition of full sun is at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day, many vegetables prefer to have 8 hours of sunlight or more. While there are some vegetables that can survive and even thrive in part-shade gardens, in many cases a lack of sunlight can cause the plant to grow slower. The best way to avoid this is to consider the sun exposure when planning your garden in Planter, and place the most sun-loving plants in the sunniest spots available.

Pest, disease, and weed pressure

Often the first obvious signs of pests or diseases are lesions, spotting, or holes in the leaves, but if your plant is growing slowly it might be worth a closer look to see if there is a pest or disease problem that went undetected. Pest and disease issues can sometimes be a secondary effect of the weather conditions or of nutrient deficiencies leading to weakened plants. While the specific course of treatment depends on the exact pest or disease, following proper plant spacing and pruning to improve airflow are two good ways to keep potential problems at bay. And if you know your plants are afflicted, sometimes the best course of action is to remove them and plant something new rather than waiting on that one last tomato or cucumber to ripen. It’s a good idea to rotate locations to help reduce pest and disease pressure on new plantings.

And last but not least, weeds are a very common culprit behind slow plant growth. While a small weed here or there isn’t an issue, if your plants are being choked out with weeds they may not be getting the water, nutrients, and sunlight they need to thrive. For more info on how to manage weeds in the garden check out Garden Weeds: Stem the Spread.

If your plants seem like they’re taking their sweet time to mature, be sure to dig a little deeper to see what the root cause might be. In some cases there might be factors outside of your control that you either have to mitigate or just understand and accept (at least for this season). In other cases there are actions you can take to reinvigorate your plants’ growth. Either way, it will be that much more rewarding when your plants finally produce a harvest!

Earwigs

Earwigs are creepy-looking but also fascinating garden insects. It might be surprising to know that earwigs can actually be beneficial in the garden. They eat soft-bodied insects such as aphids that regularly devour our garden plants. However in some years- especially wet, rainy years- earwig populations can be so prolific that the damage they cause by also munching on plant leaves can outweigh their predatory benefits. Earwigs chew rough, jagged holes in leaves- so if you see this pattern extensively with large numbers of earwigs scurrying around it may be time to take action. One effective way to trap earwigs is using an oil trap- put vegetable or fish oil in a plastic container, cut an entry hole in the lid and bury the container at ground level. You can also use thin rolled-up tubes of newspaper which will act as a hiding spot for earwigs that you can then dispose of.

Slugs

While slugs are one of the most common garden pests that tend to make their presence known in the wet weather of spring, a rainy summer can exacerbate slug activity in the garden. Slugs like to hide in shady, cool, damp areas of the garden and come out to feed at night. They will munch on virtually any garden plant- leaving irregularly-shaped holes in the leaves. Depending on the extent of feeding and how well-established the plant is, slug damage can range from minor to devastating. One of the best ways to control slugs in the garden is to remove as much potential habitat as possible- clear away excess mulch, remove any unneeded ground cover plants and dead plant debris. You can also come out at night to handpick slugs off affected plants- or if this is too much hassle, leave a trap of damp boards or newspaper and check the undersides in the morning for a collection of slugs to dispatch!

Japanese beetles

Japanese beetles are voracious garden pests that tend to devour plants in large numbers. They have distinct emerald-green heads and copper bodies. Japanese beetle grubs are well-known for the damage they cause by feeding on grass roots in lawns. Adult Japanese beetles are indiscriminate eaters in the garden that can attack a wide variety of both edible and ornamental plants. According to the Purdue University Forestry and Natural Resources Extension, the cooler weather followed by drought this spring may have delayed the beetle’s usual emergence, but with warm weather and rain rolling in they are primed to invade. There are many potential ways to control Japanese beetles- handpicking is possibly the most straightforward, although there are reports of gardeners using tennis rackets to knock large quantities of beetles into buckets with soapy water (I’m not sure I have the coordination for this!) Do not use beetle traps though, as studies have shown that they end up luring more beetles to your garden.

Blight

Blight is a sort of catch-all term for a variety of primarily fungal and bacterial diseases that can cause lesions, wilting, and die-back in plants. Some blights proliferate in hot and humid conditions, where others tend to take hold in cool and moist environments. While blight treatment and survivability depends on the specific pathogen and plant, following good garden practices can help prevent and stem the spread of blight. Look for disease-resistant plant varieties for plants that have struggled in your garden in the past. Ensure plants are properly spaced and pruned as needed to promote good air circulation. Remove leaves as soon as they show signs of disease, and if the plant is overtaken remove it entirely- it is usually best to dispose of it rather than adding it to the compost. Rotate plant locations to help prevent disease recurrence next season.

Powdery and downy mildew

Downy and powdery mildew are both plant diseases that can flourish in cool, humid environments. While the names sound similar, they are different pathogens and they look quite different. Downy mildew is a ‘water mold disease’ that can easily be confused with a nutrient deficiency or a viral disease. First, a gray-ish fuzz may appear on the undersides of the leaves. As the disease progresses more noticeable yellow spots will appear on the upper leaf surface, often with black flecks on the underside. Eventually the leaves and flowers can die off. Powdery mildew looks like a white powder spread in circular spots on the leaf surfaces. Affected leaves can eventually turn yellow and wilt. While it’s not as immediately destructive as downy mildew, powdery mildew can stunt the plant and dramatically reduce yields. Similar to blight, it’s best to use preventative measures to try to avoid or at least slow the progression of downy and powdery mildew. Ensure your plants are grown in sunny locations with proper spacing and good airflow, and try to avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering. If a plant is afflicted, remove affected leaves where possible.

Don’t let the pests and diseases of the season put a damper on your summer harvests. Focus on maintaining healthy plants and take action when needed to keep pest and disease pressure at bay. Keep in mind there is no such thing as a 100% pest-and-disease-free garden- usually the goal is to minimize damage and slow down disease progression. And if any of your plants do happen to succumb, remove them right away and plant something new in their place!

Below are some common veggie crops that typically mature quickly enough to start from seed in midsummer and still get a solid harvest by season’s end!

Beets

Beets are an excellent crop to seed in summer and grow into fall. Beets are sturdy plants that can grow in the heat but will also appreciate cooler fall temperatures, and they’re typically ready to harvest in 55-70 days. Don’t feel constrained to just growing plain old purple beets- there are beautiful golden, white, and ‘candy cane’ (pink-and-white striped) varieties that add visual interest in the garden and the kitchen! For beet growing tips be sure to check out Grow Great Root Vegetables.

Chard

Chard is a beet relative that is usually grown for its large, spinach-like leaves. Chard performs well in spite of the summer’s heat, and it can also handle some seriously cold temperatures. Chard typically matures in 40-60 days which means for many gardeners a midsummer planting will give ample time to reach maturity and continue to produce a harvest well into fall and even early winter. Harvest only the outermost chard leaves and it will keep on growing and producing harvests for weeks to come.

Beans

Beans might be a surprising candidate for summer sowing, but they’re a quick-growing crop that does very well planted in midsummer for early fall harvests. Bush beans tend to mature faster than pole beans, so if your growing season is waning make sure to look for a faster-growing bush bean variety. Beans are a warm season crop that prefers full sun, so be sure to plant them in a sunny spot that will also receive maximum warmth as fall approaches. When cooler nights start to roll in you can use season extension techniques to keep your beans producing just a little while longer.

Lettuce

While lettuce does not at all enjoy the heat of summer, it’s good to plan for multiple plantings of lettuce throughout the growing season (this is called succession sowing). Lettuce is generally a quick-growing crop, especially if you are growing it as cut-and-come-again lettuce rather than full lettuce heads. Lettuce planted in the summer may need a little TLC to produce a harvest. Shade cloth can help block out too much searing heat from the sun, and consistent watering can help to avoid stress to the plant that could accelerate bolting. And once cooler temperatures hit, your lettuce crop will be even more prolific!

Carrots

Carrots might seem like a plant-once-and-done crop, but there can be a massive difference in the days to maturity depending on the variety. ‘Early’ carrot varieties can be ready to harvest in as little as 50 days, whereas more substantial storage varieties can take up to 120 days to mature! So be sure to select carrot varieties for summer sowing carefully. Carrots can be tricky to germinate, and summer’s heat does not help matters. Water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist after sowing carrots- some gardeners even put down a piece of plywood over the soil to hold in moisture (be sure to check for germination every day if you go this route!)

Cilantro

Cilantro is possibly one of the most bolt-prone crops around, which means the only way to be able to keep harvesting it for fresh summertime salsas is to keep on planting it! Keep watering and harvesting your cilantro regularly especially in summer to try to stave off bolting as long as possible. Cilantro that does flower helps to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects that can help your summer crops along– if you have enough space just leave the flowered plants in and plant a new round. You can also easily save seed from cilantro for upcoming plantings!

Radishes 

Radishes are an excellent crop to sow midsummer (or almost anytime, really) as they grow  extremely quickly. Radishes can reach maturity in as little as 25 days, and their compact size means that they can be tucked into almost any garden space that frees up as spring and summer crops kick the bucket. And if your radishes happen to bolt before you get a chance to harvest them you can always let them continue growing- the green seed pods are edible (and delicious!) Then plant a whole new wave of radishes!

This is just a small sampling of our favorite crops to plant in summer- there are many more summer sowing possibilities to explore. Don’t let your garden dwindle down to just tomatoes and peppers as the season wears on- sow a fresh round of summer crops for full garden beds and abundant harvests!

Why harvest rainwater?

Harvesting rainwater to use in the garden can offer several benefits. First, it’s economical- instead of paying to use city water, using rainwater is free once you have your system installed. Some cities may even offer stormwater rebates on your water bill if you have a rain barrel- as collecting rainwater helps to divert stormwater runoff. Harvesting rainwater can also be environmentally-friendly, as it saves precious treated water that can be better used for drinking, cooking, and bathing. And rainwater is ideal for plants as it’s naturally soft, has a slightly acidic PH that plants appreciate (unless its acid rain), and doesn’t contain water treatment by-products. 

If your region has outdoor watering restrictions in the summertime, harvesting rainwater can help ensure your plants still get the water they need. But be aware that in some regions where rain is especially scarce there can be rules that limit or prohibit harvesting rainwater. It’s important to fully understand the regulations that apply in your area before getting started.

Is it safe to use water from a rain barrel on edible plants?

There is not a clear-cut answer as to whether it is safe to use collected rainwater on edible plants. Some sources recommend avoiding the use of water from rain barrels on edible plants, while others consider it to be generally safe with some precautions.

The two primary potential safety concerns when it comes to using collected rainwater on edible plants are pollutants and bacteria. Pollutants can be accumulated as the water runs along the roof of your house, potentially picking up chemicals used in the roofing materials. Bacteria such as E. coli can also be picked up if there are bird or other animal droppings on the roof.

The Washington State Department of Ecology looked at pollutant levels in rainwater runoff from various types of roofing materials (study link). It found that some types of roofing materials released elevated levels of pollutants into rainwater runoff while others did not (compared to a glass panel control). It also noted that the age of the roofing materials could impact the levels of pollutants released. So before collecting rainwater you may want to look into the roofing material you have, and consider its age.

Rutgers University specifically looked at the question of whether it is safe to use rainwater from asphalt shingle roofs for vegetable gardens, considering both pollutants and bacteria (study link). This study concluded that “…rain barrel water can be safely utilized to irrigate a vegetable/herb garden. Pathogen treatment should be conducted and best practices utilized when applying the water.”

Be sure to review research from several reputable sources for yourself before deciding whether you’re comfortable with using water from a rain barrel on your edible plants. Also be aware that local regulations may limit the use of harvested rainwater for irrigation at school or community gardens, or gardens where the produce will be sold.

There are several precautions that you should consider taking if you do choose to use harvested rainwater on your veggies:

• The “first flush” of rainwater after a dry spell can be the most contaminated- you may want to empty it out and discard it or use it on ornamental plants
• Add ⅛teaspoon of bleach per gallon of water once a month, or more often if there are frequent rains, then wait 24 hours before using it to irrigate (recommendation per Rutgers University)
• Consider testing your rain barrel water for E. coli
• Water the soil and not the plant itself (this is a good practice anyways to help prevent plant disease)
• Do not harvest produce immediately after watering
• Most importantly, always wash garden produce thoroughly before eating it!

If you decide not to use rainwater on your edible plants, it’s still worth installing a rain barrel to water your ornamental plants.

How to collect and use rainwater

To set up a rain barrel you’ll first need to identify a good location for the barrel. You’ll want to place it on firm, level ground by a downspout close to where you’ll use the water. Some rain barrels can be connected together so when one fills up the water will divert into a second or third barrel- if you want to go this route be sure the site has enough space for multiple barrels. You’ll also want to consider where to divert overflow from the barrel so it doesn’t pool near your house foundation.

Then you’ll need to select a barrel. There are many different sizes and styles of barrels. Consult your local regulations to see if there are limits on how much rainwater you can collect and choose a barrel size accordingly. Your rain barrel should have a debris screen to filter out solid materials from the water. Some barrels can be opened from the top to allow for easy filling of a watering can, while others are fully enclosed.

There are many different ways to install a rain barrel but it will typically involve cutting (and potentially re-supporting) the downspout then attaching a flexible or rigid pipe that directs the water into the top of the barrel. Consult online video tutorials to find step-by-step instructions that are specific to the type of downspout and barrel you have. Be sure to have a clear plan and all the necessary materials before starting- you won’t want to leave the project half-finished then have a rainstorm hit!

Rain barrels work with gravity; the more full the barrel is the more quickly water will flow from the spigot at the bottom. The higher up the barrel the higher the flow rate will be- and the easier it will be to get a watering can under the spigot. Use concrete blocks or wood to build a strong, solid platform to raise the barrel up, or buy a ready-made rain barrel stand. Using a rain barrel pump can help to get more water pressure from the barrel especially when the water level is low.

To make use of water from a rain barrel you can use a watering can or a gravity-fed drip irrigation system that is specifically designed for the low water pressure from a rain barrel. If you have a pump you may be able to use a sprinkler system with the barrel.

A note for those of us living in cold climates- before winter hits you’ll want to be sure to drain your rain barrel completely and store it in a garage or shed where so it’s not exposed to temperature extremes that can cause cracking.

Using rainwater in your veggie garden is something that needs to be carefully researched and considered before diving in. There are many benefits to using rainwater but also some potential risks, and local regulations to keep in mind. Even if you decide to use rainwater strictly on ornamental plants, setting up a rainwater harvesting system can be a fun and rewarding project to use water more efficiently in the garden!

The greens we’ll cover in this article should be seeded quite densely to be grown for salad greens (roughly 1.5’-2’ between plants)- this helps the leaves stay salad-sized and makes it easier to harvest them with a knife as cut-and-come-again greens. So long as you don’t entirely cut off the top growing crowns of the plants, you can keep harvesting the greens as they regrow until they finally bolt. If you’re particular about bug-bitten leaves (or if you have some especially hungry pests), be sure to cover your greens with insect netting to help keep the leaves intact.

Arugula

Also known as rocket or rucola, arugula is a delicate leafy green that packs a peppery punch. If you don’t mind salad with a kick you can use arugula as the sole green, but it also makes a great addition to mesclun mix where its spiciness is balanced out with lettuce and milder greens. Or, skip the salad and sprinkle it on top of homemade pizza or sandwiches for a gourmet touch! Arugula can tend to bolt easily so be sure to keep it well-watered to avoid drought stress, and consider sowing in regular successions to be able to continue harvesting throughout the season.

Mustard

Mustard packs a good amount of spice- similar to arugula but arguably a notch more intense, and with a flavor all its own. Mustard greens are not necessarily green- there are red varieties available such as ‘Red Giant‘ that add a pop of color as well as flavor. Mustard leaves have unique crispy-juicy stems and serrated or savoyed leaves that add a really interesting texture to salad mixes. Mustard can be a bit intense as a sole salad green but if you’re needing a change from salad entirely it’s also excellent in stir-fries and soups.

Tip: Mustard is listed under Herbs in Planter as it can also be grown for mustard seed

Baby kale

Kale is often grown for full-sized leaves that can be turned into kale chips, chopped salads, and green smoothies. But if you sow kale seeds densely and cut off the leaves while they are young and tender you have ‘baby kale’ which is a wonderful salad green. Baby kale has the same strong flavor that fully mature kale does, but the texture is much softer so the leaves are pleasant to eat whole in salads without needing to chop them down first. Also, if you cease cutting the baby kale leaves and thin out the plants, the remaining plants can grow into fully mature-sized kale so you can harvest larger leaves (kale doesn’t tend to bolt as easily as some of the other greens in the list).

Baby chard (and beet) greens

Chard and beets are related plants that have very similar greens. Chard is often grown for full-sized leaves, while beets are often grown for their sugary roots- but they can both be seeded densely and grown for salad greens. Like beet roots, beet greens (they can often be purple-red in color) have an ‘earthy’ undertone to their flavor that may not appeal to everyone. Chard has a more neutral spinach-like flavor and the colorful stems and bright-green leaves are visually striking. Both can add a nice depth of flavor and pop of color to a salad mix.

Endive/escarole

While endive and escarole can look like little lettuces, they are actually members of a unique chicory sub-group of plants (genus Cichorium). These greens are most commonly described as bitter- if you’re not a fan of bitter flavors they might not agree with you. Endive and escarole is typically blanched when growing- that is the growing stem is blocked from receiving sunlight to maintain a white color and a milder flavor. They can be used as the sole green in a salad, but the strong bitter flavor often needs to be balanced out by adding plenty of sweet, salty, and/or acidic ingredients. They can also be grilled first which adds a depth of flavor that works really well with the bitterness.

Bonus: Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are often added to edible gardens for their beautiful color and as companion plants that can attract pollinators and discourage pests. But did you know that all parts of the nasturtium plant are also edible? They have a mild peppery taste and they make for a stunningly beautiful salad with the flowers and the leaves combined together. Nasturtiums may look super-delicate, but they are surprisingly easy to grow in the garden! Direct-sow nasturtiums into any available nooks and crannies to add beauty and color to your garden and your salad plate!

Salads are a great way to enjoy garden veggies at their peak freshness! But if you start to get tired of the same old salad ingredients, don’t give up on eating salads entirely. Up your salad game instead by adding some of these unique and interesting greens to the mix!

Do all veggie plants need full sun?

For the most part, vegetable plants grow and produce best in full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun per day). Veggie plants need ample sun to be able to photosynthesize and grow as quickly as possible- a lack of sun may not outright kill them but it can severely stunt their growth. But there are some plants that will still produce a respectable harvest in partial shade (4-6 hours of sun per day). Gardening successfully in part shade comes down to being selective about what you choose to grow and having realistic expectations about how much you’ll be able to harvest.

If your potential garden location is in near total shade and gets only a few hours of sun each day, you may want to skip down the Alternatives to gardening in part shade section of this article. While you can certainly have fun experimenting with growing edible plants in shade (you might even discover some non-traditional edible plants that grow well in shade), you’ll likely only be able to muster up a meager harvest.

Veggie plants to grow in part shade

Lettuce and leafy greens

Lettuce and other leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are star performers in the shade. Growing them in part shade can even have some benefits, as blazing summer sun can contribute to them bolting. To get the plants off to a good start you may want to consider starting them indoors then transplanting out to the shadier parts of your garden. It can be challenging to get lettuce to form full-sized heads in part-shade, but you can certainly harvest it as cut-and-come-again lettuce.

Green onions and chives

‘Bulbing onions’ require full sun to form their large, edible bulbs, however green onions and chives are excellent shady garden plants because they are primarily harvested for their slender, pungent greens. While they will produce best in full sun, you can tuck them into shady spots and still harvest enough to make the effort worthwhile. To learn more about growing these and other allium-family crops be sure to check out Grow Amazing Alliums.

Radishes

By now you might be noticing a theme with shady-garden plant picks: they tend to be green and leafy. Radishes can add a nice burst of color to an otherwise monotone shady salad garden. Radishes can still form nice-sized roots when grown in part shade- although it might take longer than usual for the bulbs to form. Be careful not to use too much high-nitrogen fertilizer where you plant radishes, as this will stimulate them to form lush leafy tops and tiny roots. If this does happen all is not lost- radish greens are edible too!

Beets

Like radishes, beets are another root crop that can be grown in partial shade. The roots of shade-grown beets will likely be smaller than their full-sun counterparts, but you can always roast them whole and just call them ultra-gourmet baby beets. Don’t leave beets in the ground for an excessively long time hoping that massive roots will form- they might just turn woody and tough instead. Beet greens are also totally delicious in salads or sauteed, so if you do find the bulbs are too diminutive the greens will not disappoint!

Brassicas (such as broccoli, cabbage, collards, kale)

Brassicas can be grown in part-shade locations- but they must receive at minimum 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day. If your location has dappled sun throughout the day, you may want to avoid growing brassicas there. Because brassicas, like leafy greens, are prone to bolting under stress caused by heat and drought, growing them in shade may help to delay this. Patience is key as brassicas are already slow-growing crops and they will grow even more slowly in the shade. You likely will not be able to get super-sized heads to form on your broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, but it’s at least possible to grow small, tender heads. Start brassicas indoors to give them the best possible chance to grow and reach maturity in the shade.

Peas

While peas perform best when in full sun, you can still get a harvest if they’re planted in part shade. You might even be able to trellis your climbing peas so that the plants are able to climb out of the shade to reach more sun. It is important to plant your peas with enough time for them to reach maturity before the summer heat comes. While partial shade will help keep them cooler for longer, eventually they will stop flowering and producing peas in the summer’s heat. For more info on growing peas, check out Grow Awesome Legumes.

Certain herbs (such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley)

While Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and oregano prefer full sun and soil on the drier side, other herbs such as mint, cilantro, dill, and parsley don’t mind a bit of shade. The shade will help keep the soil moist and will help delay bolting. Trim (and cook with!) herbs planted in part-shade regularly to help keep the plants bushy and compact. And a special warning about mint: be sure to plant it in a container to keep it from spreading prolifically.

Alternatives to gardening in the shade

Container gardening

While your yard might be submerged in shade, perhaps there’s a sunny spot on a deck or front porch that could be a great spot to grow veggies in containers. Virtually every type of veggie can be grown in a container provided the container is large enough for the crop, and you water and fertilize regularly to keep the growing medium moist and full of nutrients. Containers can also be moved around as needed to capture the most amount of sun available as the sun’s angle changes.

Rent a community garden plot

If your house is in the middle of the deep woods your best bet for getting a sizable garden harvest could be to rent a plot at your local community garden. Community garden plots are typically very inexpensive to rent for an entire season and will let you grow sun-loving veggies much more successfully. If you garden in a community plot be sure to set reminders to water your garden when the weather’s hot and dry, as you won’t be able to check the state of your plants as easily as in a backyard garden.

Garden with neighbors and friends

If your neighbors and/or friends have unused backyard space that gets full sun exposure, try striking up a deal with them! If they let you use the space for gardening you can bestow them with tasty garden-grown produce throughout the season. If your friends happen to be gardening enthusiasts all the better- you can share the work, share knowledge, and share the reward!

Don’t let the semi-shaded parts of your garden be nothing more than wasted space. Maximize your harvests by growing some of these shade-tolerant plants and saving the full-sun spaces for sun-loving crops. Every harvest you can get from a shady space is a gardening win!

Tomatillos

If you’ve ever enjoyed ‘salsa verde’ at a Mexican restaurant, you should definitely give tomatillos a try in your garden! Tomatillos are in the Solanaceae (nightshade) family like tomatoes and peppers, but in many ways they are easier to grow. They enjoy heat and a long growing season, but as long as you get them up and growing in time they will produce like crazy until frost comes. They are relatively disease and pest resistant, and pruning or fancy trellising is not required! You can let your tomatillos bush out and offer them some support in a sturdy tomato cage- then watch them take off!

Potatoes

Potatoes are another Solanaceae family member that can be overlooked in the garden. Why bother using precious garden space to grow something that is so cheap in the grocery store? If you can eke out a few square feet somewhere in your garden (it doesn’t need to be prime real estate) it is worth giving potatoes a go. It is recommended to use seed potatoes purchased from a garden center for the best yields, but some success can be had by popping a few sprouting potatoes from your pantry into the ground Potatoes do prefer loose, fluffy soil and will appreciate sufficient moisture and nutrients, but otherwise they are a set-it-and-forget-it crop. Once you’ve tasted a garden-grown potato you’ll find space to grow them every year!

Spinach

Lettuce is often the go-to when it comes to leafy garden greens, but spinach is a true powerhouse plant. It is hardier than lettuce and contains more vitamins and nutrients. It’s also more versatile in the kitchen- you can grow lots of small spinach plants for tender ‘baby spinach’ that can be regularly plucked for fresh salads. Or you can let the plants grow larger for more substantial leaves that can be cooked or frozen. Like lettuce, spinach can be prone to bolting so you’ll want to consider succession planting for ongoing harvests. If you’re looking to add more greens to your garden and your diet, swap spinach into the rotation!

Turnip

Thinking about turnip might conjure up memories of mushy puree served exclusively over the holidays. But you might not know that there are some types of turnips that are deliciously sweet, crispy, and can be eaten raw or cooked. ‘Hakurei turnips’ are a farmer’s market favorite that are super easy to grow. They look like a jumbo-size white radish, and grow similarly to radishes, but the taste is fresh and juicy without any of the signature radish kick (radish haters love them!) The greens are also excellent for stir-frying. Even if adding turnips to your garden has never crossed your mind, be sure to give hakurei a try!

Winter Squash

Summer squash such as zucchini often takes front row in the summer garden, but winter squash that can be stored such as butternut, acorn, and spaghetti squash let you enjoy your garden-fresh harvest well into the winter months when other crops have long since been eaten. ‘Winter squash’ suggests a plant that should be grown in cooler weather, but they are in fact heat-loving plants that grow through the summer months (depending on your location). While winter squash plants can get large and ramble-y, one healthy plant can produce several squashes. And if space is tight, you can also trellis them vertically to free up precious square footage in your garden beds. Check out Grow Super Squash to learn how to grow winter (and summer!) squash.

Raspberries

While many gardeners jump straight into growing strawberries, raspberries are arguably the easiest berries to grow. And considering how expensive a small pint of raspberries can cost, they are well worth it! Red raspberry bushes do tend to spread over time- which can be a blessing but also can become a problem- so you’ll want to think about how to contain them. Raspberries need pruning each year to maximize the harvest, and how you prune them depends on which type of raspberry you are growing. Be sure to research this before hacking away! Other than an annual boost of nutrients and the occasional haircut, raspberries are easy-peasy to grow! For more info on growing raspberries check out Grow Bountiful Berries.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb might feel like an old-timey (dare I say boring?) plant, but they are a cornerstone of home gardening for a reason. Once they’re up and growing rhubarb plants are hardy as anything and require almost no maintenance, with some plants living on for several decades. And while the stalks are typically processed for baking and preserving, there’s really nothing easier than chopping up some rhubarb and freezing it to be able to make delicious rhubarb crisp! If you have a spot anywhere in your yard that gets sun exposure- even at the side of your house, mixed in with landscaping plants- just stick a rhubarb plant in there! You’ll appreciate having it every time you whip up a sweet-tart rhubarb delicacy.

You don’t need to give up all your garden go-tos to make way for new plants. Just Keep an open mind and try at least one or two plants you may have never thought of growing. You might just find they end up in your regular garden rotation!

What Is Hardening Off?

‘Hardening off’ seedlings is the process of gradually getting them acclimated to growing outdoors. Hardening off is especially important for seeds started indoors, as they have been growing in unnatural conditions their whole lives. Seedlings grown indoors take some time to build up their defenses to cope with more extreme sunlight, wind, temperatures, and drought outdoors. Hardening off is most crucial for seedlings raised indoors, but if you have enough time it can be helpful to harden off seedlings purchased from a garden center. Without hardening off, seedlings can suffer from sun scald, wilting, and wind damage.

Hardening off might seem like an extra step, but it provides some insurance that the seedlings you spent weeks nurturing won’t wither and die as soon as they get outdoors. Is hardening off necessary? No. Some plants might survive being transplanted directly into the garden. But skipping hardening off is a gamble, and plants that do survive the transition might never recover fully.

When and How to Harden Off Seedlings

To determine when to harden off seedlings, start by checking the ‘Transplant’ window in the Growing Calendar in Planter for each of the plants you plan on transplanting:

The transplant window in Planter is tailored to your growing location. Within the transplant window for each of your plants, think about when specifically you want to transplant. Consider recent and forecast weather conditions and when you have time in your schedule for planting. If you are succession planting, you may have multiple transplant dates to keep track of for each plant. Make sure your seedlings will be mature enough to be transplanted- they should have at least a couple sets of ‘true leaves’- but don’t leave it so late that they are outgrowing their containers.

With transplant dates in mind for each of your plants, aim to start the hardening off process about two weeks prior. To start the process, find a partially shady location in your garden, or start the process over a stretch of a few cloudy days. Be sure the selected location is somewhat sheltered from wind. Gather your seedlings together in trays or shallow containers - this will make carrying them outside and inside easier.

On the first day of hardening off, take your seedlings outside to the chosen location, leave them out for a few hours, then bring them back in. Each day, gradually increase the number of hours that the seedlings spend outside and the amount of sunlight they receive.

If the forecast calls for extreme weather (cold, heat, wind, storms), keep the seedlings inside. Continue the hardening off process once the risk of extreme weather has passed. Once the seedlings are spending most of the day outdoors you can start leaving them outside overnight, but watch the forecast to ensure it won’t get too cold for your plants. After a week or two of this process, your seedlings are ready for transplanting!

How to Transplant Seedlings

When transplanting seedlings the goal is to prevent ‘transplant shock’, which can stunt or kill them. To make the process as smooth as possible, plan your planting ahead of time using Planter, be sure your beds (or containers) are prepped, and have your tools handy.

Prior to transplanting, moisten the planting area and seedlings’ roots. Dig a hole deep enough so the plant stem will stay at the same depth as it was in its container (tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants can be planted deeper). Be careful not to damage the plant stem and roots in the process of taking the seedling out of its container and planting it. Do not break up or untangle the seedlings’ roots, unless they are especially root-bound (i.e., the roots are coiling around several times in the container). If you are using peat pots, rip the edges open when planting otherwise they can wick moisture away from the plant.

Place the plant in the hole and fill it with soil, pressing gently yet firmly until it is level with the surrounding soil. Water again gently so the plant settles in and has enough moisture.

Your plants will need some extra attention for the first few weeks after transplanting. Ensure they have consistent moisture and protect them from extreme weather conditions if needed. After this point your plants should be established and can be cared for as part of your regular garden maintenance.

It can be tempting to rush to get your seedlings planted outside, but taking the time to harden off and transplant your plants properly will set your garden up for a successful season!

Kale

Kale is truly an incredible plant. Not only is it astoundingly cold-hardy, once established it can grow through almost anything you can throw at it. Kale is a top low-maintenance plant pick because you plant it once and enjoy continuous harvests all season long (assuming you are harvesting it for larger, individual leaves). To harvest kale just snap off the lowest, largest leaves as close as possible to the stem, making sure to leave the top of the plant and several upper leaves intact. When harvested this way, kale can keep on producing well into fall and even winter…You might even find it grows back again the following year!

Chard

Like kale, chard is another season-long powerhouse producer. Chard is also cold hardy, so you can sow seeds early in the season when the planting schedule is not as intense! Chard has a spinach-like flavor and a similar texture when cooked, but unlike spinach chard is amazingly resistant to bolting. Chard leaves remain tasty and sweet all season long, even through the blazing heat of summer. Chard is harvested similarly to kale- cut off the largest, lower leaves as close to the base of the plant as possible.

Green onions

Green onions* are one of the least-fussy plants you can grow. They germinate readily, require minimal fertilizer, and can even tolerate a slight drought (emphasis on slight). Green onions are significantly less tricky to grow than bulbing onions, and there’s no curing process involved - you simply pull them out, wash them up and store them in the fridge. Green onions also ‘hold’ well in the garden - that is, you don’t have to harvest them all at a super-precise time. They’re happy to keep on growing until you need them (although eventually you might end up with some humongous green onions!)

*Note: green onions are a variety of onions in Planter!

Zucchini

Zucchini* makes the list of low-maintenance plants because of how hyper-productive it is! Growing just one or two zucchini plants could easily provide enough zucchini for your family (and you might even be giving it away!) Zucchini plants tend to be on the larger side but there are compact container varieties available that can help save space in the garden. With zucchini the only time-sensitive task is harvesting - it’s important to harvest the zucchinis before they get too large so the plant will keep on producing! Zucchini plants can produce all season long, although at some point they might succumb to pest and disease pressure. Rather than spending time battling pests and disease it may be more efficient to start a couple of back-up seedlings, timing them to reach maturity in the mid-late season. 

* Note: zucchini is a variety of squash in Planter!

Bush beans

While beans are a popular garden plant, for a low-maintenance bean harvest bush beans are the way to go. Bush bean varieties, as the name suggests, have a bushing growth habit which means they don’t require a trellis or support structure to grow and produce a harvest. Pole bean varieties in contrast are vining plants that do need a structure to climb on. Bush beans are also relatively easy to harvest since you don’t need to reach around a trellis. And, since bean plants fix nitrogen from the air (with the help of soil bacteria), you can skip the fertilizing routine for beans!

Herbs (not technically a plant)

‘Herbs’ is a bit of a catch-all, but truly they can be some of the easiest plants to grow. Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and oregano thrive in poor soil (soil low in nutrients) and actually prefer to dry out between waterings! Some herbs are also perennials- depending on the variety and your hardiness zone they can come back year after year without the need to re-plant. Then there are herbs such as mint and dill which are infamously easy to grow because they self-seed prolifically (and mint also spreads by rhizomes). Grow mint and dill in containers otherwise they grow so readily that they can turn into garden weeds!

Dwarf cherry tomatoes

Tomatoes can arguably be one of the most maintenance-intensive crops, depending on the variety, but dwarf cherry tomato varieties are easy-peasy. They are small, well-behaved little plants that produce prolifically without a need for trellising. They do not require much pruning - only to remove damaged or yellowing leaves and leaves touching the soil. Plus they grow well in containers- so weeding is minimized and you can keep them within reach for easy mealtime harvesting (or a quick garden snack!)

Incorporate these low-maintenance plants into your veggie garden this season to enjoy maximum harvests with minimal effort!

While there’s no hard-and-fast rule for when it’s safe to plant outdoors, let’s dive into some considerations. In this article we’ll focus on deciding when to plant warm season plants that are more sensitive to the cold, but for more info about planting cool season plants in springtime check out How to Plant a Spring Garden.

The first key piece of information that you’ll need to decide when to plant outdoors is your average last frost date. If you’ve already set your frost dates in Planter you can quickly refer to them under Settings (if not- check out our how-to article on setting your frost dates):

While the term ‘last’ frost date sounds final, it’s only an estimate of when you’ll no longer receive frosts in spring based on previous weather history in your area. There is a 50% chance that there will be no frost after your average last frost date…but there is also a 50% chance that there could still be frost! So if there’s still some risk of frost after your last frost date, why not just wait and plant everything in say, July? While you’d certainly avoid the risk of frost, the problem is some plants may not have enough time left in the growing season if you put them in the ground too late. Also they may start to become root-bound in their containers and struggle to get sufficient nutrients the longer they go unplanted. Deciding when to plant is a trade-off between being relatively confident that there is little to no risk of frost, but still planting early enough that your plants can get growing in a timely manner.

For each plant in Planter you can refer to the Growing Calendar to see recommended date ranges for transplanting and sowing seeds outdoors based on your average frost dates:

While frost dates are key in determining when you can start planting outdoors, each year can be dramatically different weather-wise and you’ll want to adjust your planting timing accordingly. As an example, if you’re looking at the two-week forecast leading up to your last frost date and it’s expected to be hot and sunny with nighttime temperatures well above freezing you may want to take advantage of the warm spell to start planting.

On the flip side, if you’re near your last frost date and and seeing ominously cold weather in the forecast it may be best to hold off well past then just to be safe. Precipitation and wind are other considerations too- there is no sense putting your precious plants in the ground only to have them drown in a deluge of rain or get taken out in a windstorm. Take Notes in Planter about the weather patterns and your planting timing, so you can refer to them in upcoming years. Keeping track of this information will help you to make better decisions about when to plant.

While the weather is important, how it affects your plants can vary significantly depending on your garden’s microclimates. Microclimates are small localized areas that have temperatures and weather that differ from the broader region. For example, you may have a sheltered area in your garden where heat radiates off a wall- keeping your plants protected and several degrees warmer. Whereas wide-open areas that are exposed to biting winds may not be safe for planting for some time. Become familiar with the microclimates in your garden and use that knowledge to your advantage- in some spots you may be able to plant earlier, in others you may need to hold off a little longer to be safe.

Even if the weather is cooperating and you have a nice sheltered spot in your garden, it still might not be a good time to start planting. If the soil temperature is too cold for the crops you intend to plant, it may be better to delay planting until the soil has a chance to warm up. Although the plants might survive if the weather above ground is decent, planting into cold soil could potentially stunt their growth. To check this use a soil thermometer to test the soil temperature, and research the preferred soil temperatures for the crops you’ll be planting.

And finally, deciding when to plant can also come down to how much work you’re willing to put in in case of extreme weather. If all systems are a go, and you’re ready to get plants in the ground on the early side, are you able to take steps to protect them if the weather happens to take a turn for the worse? If the answer is yes, you might be able to get away with planting earlier. If not, it would be better to err on the side of caution when timing your planting.

Don’t rush to get your warm-season plants in the ground as soon as the thermometer starts to sneak up. While planting late can put a damper on potential harvests, planting too early can be disastrous. Watch the weather patterns and draw from your own experience (and risk tolerance!) to decide the best time to plant in your own garden. The decision of when to start planting will be slightly different for every gardener!

To plant outdoors in spring, the soil needs to be ‘workable’- but what does this mean exactly? Workable soil mainly refers to soil that is no longer frozen- if you dig down a few inches and hit soil that is still solid, it’s not ready for planting. Even if the ground is no longer frozen, it’s also important to gauge how wet the soil is before planting. In the spring, soil is often supersaturated from snowmelt and springtime precipitation. Do not work in or plant into muddy or mucky soil, as this can degrade the soil structure and increase the chance of your plants and seeds rotting. Soil in raised garden beds often warms up and dries out faster than in-ground beds, so you can start planting in them earlier. To be able to plant into in-ground beds as early as possible in spring, it can help to protect them with tarps when you close them off for the season in late fall.

Once you’ve determined that the soil is ready for planting, the next step is to find plants that can survive springtime cold snaps. To do this, use the new plant filter options in Planter to find Cool season plants that are Tolerant and Semi-tolerant of frost:

Plants that are semi-tolerant of frost can survive a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and plants that are tolerant of frost can withstand a heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). To learn more about growing cool-season plants, check out our article on cold-hardy crops.

Once you’ve identified plants that can handle the cold, you’ll need to sort out whether to seed them directly outside or to transplant them. Some plants do best being seeded directly outdoors, where others can be started indoors (or purchased from a garden center) and transplanted- you can find this information in the growing calendar in Planter. For direct-seeded crops, it’s a good idea to research the minimum soil temperatures for the seeds to germinate, then use a soil thermometer to check that the ground is warm enough.

Keep in mind that young seedlings still need to be hardened off before transplanting outside. Even though the intense summer sun and heat hasn’t set in, they still need to be gradually acclimated to the cold, wind, and daylight. And don’t abandon your seedlings to their fate once they are planted; even the hardiest plants will need some extra protection from the cold until they have a chance to get established. Watch the weather forecast like a hawk and be prepared to use season extension techniques to protect young plants from extreme weather.

Planting a spring garden can feel a bit like playing roulette with mother nature, but with the right plant selections and a bit of extra care, you can be harvesting all kinds of veggies before your summer garden is due to be planted! Be sure to plan space for your spring garden in Planter, put on your rubber boots and a toque (hat), and get growing!

Onions (and Shallots)

Onions- the allium family namesake- can be harvested as ‘bulbing onions’ (including what we think of as yellow onions, white onions, and red onions) or as ‘bunching onions’ which are onions grown for their green tops.

To grow bulbing onions, it’s critical to determine whether to grow ‘long-day’ onions, ‘short-day’ onions, or ‘intermediate-day’ (‘day neutral’) onions. This depends on where you live and how many hours of daylight your garden receives in the summer:

• Short-day onions form the best bulbs in southern regions with 11-12 hours of sunlight each day
• Intermediate-day onions work well in regions that receive 12-14 hours sunlight
• Long-day onions will form bulbs in northern regions with 14 or more hours of sunlight (note shallots are typically grown as long-day onions)

Be sure to research bulbing onion varieties that are best suited for your area.

Onions can be grown from ‘sets’ which are small bulbs sold in bags, ‘starts’ which are small pre-started onion plants, or from seed. Sets are easy to work with but they may not produce bulbs as large as onions grown from starts and seeds. Starts are also easy to grow, however if you’re comfortable starting seeds indoors give onion seeds a try!

Onions can be planted outdoors before your last frost date, once the soil is workable. They should be planted about 1-1.5” deep into loose soil that will allow the bulbs to expand. Some gardeners advocate “spooning” onions - scooping some soil out from around the bulb to encourage it to grow outwards. This is not necessary, but if you have the time go for it!

Onions are ready to harvest once the leaves start to flop over. Pull the onions out of the ground, snip off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

Chives

If you’re looking for the easiest allium to grow, be sure to plant some chives! Chives are hardy perennial herbs that will keep coming back year after year. Chives can be grown from seeds or purchased as transplants. Or, if you have a neighbor growing chives, ask if you could divide them and take a small clump to plant!

Chives are best planted in spring, as they flourish in cooler temperatures- you may find their growth stalls in the summer only to come back again in fall. They like loose, well draining soil and while they are drought-tolerant, they do best with consistent moisture. To harvest chives, simply use garden snips to trim off some leaves near the base of the plant. Chives have a mild onion flavor- similar to green onion but more delicate. Later in spring chives will produce beautiful flower blooms- these are edible too and have the same subtle onion-y flavor!

Leeks

Leeks tend to be an expensive gourmet ingredient, but you can grow them in your garden for next to nothing! They are surprisingly easy to grow and have a very unique, gentle onion flavor. Like onions, leeks can be grown from seeds or starts. Leeks with long white stems are prized in the kitchen-  the green parts are usually discarded or used for soup stock. To get the desirable white stems they need to be ‘blanched’ - that is covered and protected from the sun. There are a few ways to achieve this: one is by using a tool called a dibber to make holes 6” deep in the soil - into which you can insert young leek plants. Mulch or dry soil can also be hilled up around the leek stems, or cardboard tubes can be used.

One thing to keep in mind is leeks can take a very long time to grow- be sure to plant them with enough time to mature and plan your garden space accordingly.

Garlic

If you enjoy cooking with garlic it is absolutely worthwhile to add garlic to your garden- the flavor of home-grown garlic is incomparable! For best results garlic should be planted in the fall within two weeks of your first frost date. In a pinch garlic can also be planted once the soil is workable in spring, just be aware that the bulbs will not grow as large. When it comes to choosing garlic varieties it’s important to look for varieties that are adapted to your region. ‘Softneck’ garlic varieties tend to be grown in warmer climates where ‘hardneck’ varieties tend to be grown in colder climates, as they require a prolonged period of cold temperatures (although this can be replicated in the fridge if you are growing in a warm climate or planting in spring). There is also ‘elephant garlic’ which is technically a leek even though it forms bulbs like garlic.

When planting garlic be sure to separate the bulbs into individual cloves, but leave the papery skins on each clove. Plant with the pointed end up/flat end down. How deep to plant your garlic depends on where you live - in colder climates it can be beneficial to plant your garlic up to 4” deep to protect it from winter chill, but in less extreme climates 2-3” is sufficient. Garlic can also be mulched to help protect it over the winter- if using mulch you may not need to plant quite as deep.

Garlic will emerge and start to grow in springtime. Hardneck garlic will shoot up a curly stem with a flower bud on top called a ‘scape’. Garlic scapes should be removed when they start to curl, to allow the plant to focus energy on bulb development. Garlic scapes are delicious and can be used in any recipe that calls for garlic!

Garlic is ready to harvest once several of its leaves start to wither and die. In some cases garlic can be pulled directly from the soil and in other cases a pitchfork might be in order! Cut off the leaves and roots, gently wipe off any surface dirt, and allow them to dry for two weeks before storing.

While tomatoes, peppers, and other summer favorites often take center stage in the garden, be sure to save space for alliums- they’re the ultimate low effort, high reward crop!

Be sure a gardening job is right for you:

Before you embark on your gardening job hunt, it’s important to understand that gardening as a job can be very different from gardening in your own backyard. In your own garden you’re free to spend time on the chores you enjoy, whenever you feel like doing them. When its your job to garden, you’ll be responsible for many gardening-related tasks, some of which might not be your favorites (…You might have to weed gardens every day!)

Gardening as a job can also involve working in the elements- rain, heat, and cold- whereas with your own garden you can just hide inside until the weather improves. Depending on the job, there may be physical requirements - carrying heavy things, standing for extended periods, kneeling, and bending. You might be assigned repetitive tasks to be completed quickly…and planting 300 lettuce plants feels quite different than planting 3! Efficiency tends to be the name of the game with gardening jobs, compared to your own garden where you can spend as much time as you want fussing over your plants.

If you’re truly passionate about gardening, don’t let this deter you. Just be aware that gardening for work might not feel as carefree as hobby gardening. You could also find other avenues to channel your gardening passion into a career without necessarily working as a gardener. Consider options such as working at a retail garden center, garden design, or horticultural research. The possibilities to incorporate gardening into your career are limitless!

Decide what type of gardening gig you dig:

Once you have a general idea of how you’d like to incorporate gardening into your work, you’ll need to figure out which gardening-related industry you want to work in. There are many different specialized gardening fields, such as:

• Landscaping and garden maintenance
• Arboriculture
• Garden center/nursery work
• Agriculture
• Greenhouse production
• Floriculture

…Just to name a few! As a starting point, think about what type of gardening you enjoy most as a hobby, and look for a related speciality. If there’s more than one specialization that appeals, try to connect with people in the industry who can give you a better sense of the work involved (more on this in the next section!)

Research and reach out:

Get a sense of what gardening-related job opportunities are out there by first looking for companies and organizations in your gardening area(s) of interest. Try to get contact information for someone who works in a relevant department and reach out. Even if they don’t have jobs posted, you never know when they might be looking for help!

Consider joining garden clubs, horticultural societies, and professional organizations related to your area of interest. You will unearth opportunities through these networks that you might not have found otherwise.

Breaking into an industry can be hard, but keep putting yourself out there and eventually you will find people with similar interests who can point you to some great opportunities!

Level up your gardening skills and apply:

Once you’ve found a dream gardening job, you might be wondering how to ‘break in’ if you don’t have previous professional gardening experience. First, be sure you have the minimum qualifications for the job (including education and certifications, if applicable). If you don’t have these, your first step should be enrolling in a relevant education program to become qualified. In the meantime, consider looking for a related position to gain experience while you’re working on your credentials.

When pulling together your resume and cover letter, think of all the gardening skills you bring to the table. Include your own personal gardening experience, note any gardening volunteer work you might have done, and note your favorite books and other sources of information related to the field. Be sure to highlight any transferable skills you might have from other areas of your life. For example, if the job requires you to do physical work outside, note that you are a camping and hiking enthusiast who loves being outdoors. Or if speed is key, highlight a previous work experience where you had to complete manual tasks quickly and accurately. Convey how interested you are in the field and how much you have already learned about it; even if it’s from informal education and experience.

If you’re passionate about gardening, incorporating gardening into your work can be rewarding and fulfilling. Make sure you have realistic expectations of what the work entails and the qualifications required. Build a network of contacts in your field who can help guide you and connect you with potential opportunities. Above all, don’t be afraid to go for it! You might just land a job you love. 🌱❤️

Lighting and heat for seedlings

Seeds typically need warm, moist conditions for germination and most veggie plant seeds do not need any light for germination. Once the seeds germinate though, it’s a whole different ball game! Seedlings need ample light as soon as they germinate. If you’re using heat mats you can turn them off once the majority of your seeds on the mats have germinated. Refer to All About Grow Lights and Heat Mats for Starting Seeds for more information on how to use grow lights and heat mats.

How to water seedlings

How much to water your seedlings and when depends on many factors such as: how well your seed starting mix holds water, the type of containers you use, and how dry your house is. Check your seedlings often- multiple times a day- and as soon as the soil starts to appear a bit dry water them right away. While you never want the growing medium to go bone dry, you may not have to be as meticulous with misting and watering as when germinating seeds. Also, if you were using a humidity dome for germinating your seeds, be sure to remove it once they germinate. Many gardeners prefer to bottom water their seedlings, but no matter how you water them, be sure your containers have drainage and don’t let your seedlings sit in water. Over time you will develop a ‘feel’ for the right amount of water to give your seedlings.

How to fertilize seedlings

Seeds and newly emerged seedlings do not need any fertilizer- they have all the nutrients they need inside their ‘seed leaves’ (‘cotyledons’) or inside the seed. Because of this, seed starting mix often does not have any nutrients added (although some do). It’s usually recommended to start fertilizing seedlings once their first set of ‘true leaves’ emerge. When fertilizing young seedlings, use diluted quantities of fertilizer to avoid burning them. I like to use a liquid fish emulsion fertilizer diluted to a half or quarter of the usual strength. Fertilize about once a week as the seedlings grow (you can increase the frequency if the leaves start to turn yellow).

Thinning and potting up seedlings

Thinning seedlings is the practice of removing extra seedlings so you end up with only one seedling per growing container. Gardeners often sow more than one seed per container in case not all the seeds germinate However you’ll need to deal with any extra seedlings so they don’t crowd each other out. Identify the seedling that looks the most stocky and robust, and snip off any other seedlings in the container. Cutting is recommended instead of pulling so as not to damage the roots of the seedling you want to keep. If you don’t have the heart to kill the extra seedlings and you have space for the extras, you can very delicately use a chopstick to gently tease out the seedlings for potting up.

Potting up refers to moving seedlings into larger containers with more growing medium. Potting up gives seedlings room to continue growing so they don’t become stunted in a too-small container. To know when to pot up your seedlings, regularly check the roots. As soon as you see roots starting to poke out of the bottom of the container it’s time to pot up. Select a larger container, fill it partway with potting mix, then gently extract the seedling from its existing container (soil and all) and put it in the larger container. Fill in any gaps with more potting mix then water well.

Common seedling problems and remedies

Mold and damping off: Mold on seedlings is often just an eyesore, but it can be a sign of a deeper problem. ‘Damping off’ is a type of mold that can actually kill your seedlings. To prevent mold, make sure you are not overwatering your seedlings. Using a fan on a gentle setting to circulate air can also help keep mold at bay.

Fungus gnats: Fungus gnats are small, black flying insects. On mature plants they are a nuisance, but the larvae can inflict catastrophic damage on your seed starts. Sterilizing your seed starting mix with boiling water before sowing seeds will kill fungus gnat eggs. To treat fungus gnats in your seed starts, water them with a hydrogen peroxide solution of 4 parts water mixed with 1 part hydrogen peroxide. Multiple treatments may be needed to quell an infestation.

Leggy seedlings: Leggy seedlings are weak seedlings that are stretched too thin. To prevent leggy seedlings, make sure they are placed close enough to a light source to receive ample light, and use a fan on a gentle setting to help strengthen the stems.

Taking care of seedlings is not complicated, but it does require a bit of attentiveness. Keep a close eye on your seedlings to make sure they are not underwatered or overwatered, and that they have sufficient light and nutrients. Taking action as soon as you spot a problem can save your precious seedlings. You’ll be rewarded for your efforts when they turn into healthy plants you can transplant into your garden!

Why Start Seeds Indoors?

The main benefit of starting seeds indoors is extra time. Some plants take more time to reach maturity than you have in your growing season. These plants must be started indoors so they have enough time to produce a harvest before the frost comes in fall. For other plants, starting indoors is optional but it gives them a head start so you can harvest from them sooner! 

Buying seedlings from the garden center is an option if you don’t want to start seeds indoors, but the cost really adds up and you won’t find as many plant varieties to choose from.

Another benefit of starting seeds indoors is being able to control the environment and tend the plants more easily. Seeds that are direct sown outdoors are exposed to potential inclement weather and pests right away. It’s easier to micro-manage sensitive seedlings indoors versus having them exposed in the garden.

How to know which seeds to start indoors

Now that we know the reasons for starting seeds indoors, how do we know which seeds need to be started indoors?

• Plants where the number of ‘days to maturity’ are close to or greater than the total number of days in your growing season must be started indoors. 
• Plants where the days to maturity are less than the number of days in your growing season can be started indoors to get a head start on the season or to maximize the potential harvest, with a few exceptions (see below).
• There are some plants that don’t do well if started indoors and then transplanted. Common examples are root crops such as carrots, beets, and radishes (although some gardeners do start beets and radishes indoors). Corn, beans, peas and cucurbits (squash, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins) are also not usually started indoors- although it can be done!

The Growing Calendar in Planter helps you determine which plants should be started indoors and which should be sown outside.

Peppers should be started inside then transplanted (direct sowing outside is not recommended- no Sow Outside dates appear):

When to start seeds indoors

To find out when to start seeds indoors, first check the Growing Calendar in Planter. The Growing Calendar gives a good indication of when that plant should be started indoors, based on your local frost dates.

If the seed packet gives specific instructions on when to start seeds indoors you should follow them, as dates can vary for different varieties of the same plant. If the packet says “Start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost”, count backwards 6-8 weeks from your Spring frost date in Planter to determine when to start those seeds indoors.

Starting seeds indoors too early can be almost as problematic as starting too late. Space and light start to become scarce as the seedlings get bigger, and they can be more prone to issues such as legginess and becoming root-bound. Resist the urge to plant earlier than recommended!

How to start seeds indoors

Starting seeds indoors involves a few basic steps:

• Pre-moisten your seed starting mix (don’t use regular garden soil!)
• Fill your containers or seed trays with the moistened mix and pat down gently.
• Place the seeds into the containers or cells. Gardeners often plant multiple seeds per cell as insurance in case one doesn’t germinate.
• Poke the seeds down into the soil to the depth recommended on the seed packet or in the How to Grow info in Planter (you might need to use a pencil or another tool for smaller seeds). Ensure they are covered over with soil.
• Label the containers so you know which seeds are where (this is very important!)
• Place the containers in a flat tray that can collect water.
• Place trays on heat mats and under grow lights if you’re using them (check out All About Grow Lights and Heat Mats for Starting Seeds for more info!)
• Keep the seed starting mix consistently moist but not soggy until you see germination (many gardeners prefer to bottom water seed starts).
• After the seeds germinate, turn off the heat mat if you were using one. If you have a fan, use it to gently circulate air around the seedlings for at least a few hours each day to help strengthen the seedlings and prevent disease.

As the seedlings grow you’ll need to continue watering and start fertilizing them. You might also need to ‘thin them out’ and ‘pot them up’. We’ll cover seedling care and troubleshooting in an upcoming post!

Having the ability to start seeds indoors will take your garden to the next level! It might seem intimidating, but over time you’ll hone in on a seed-starting approach that works for you. The time and investment is more than worth it to kick-start your gardening season!

Measure your garden space

To create a garden plan the first step is to understand how much garden space you have to work with. Usually this involves measuring your garden space with a long tape measure. But garden planning often starts in winter, and if you live in a cold region the idea of trouncing around in the snow with a tape measure might not appeal! Instead of waiting for spring, use Google Maps to estimate the size of your garden space:

1. Look up the address on Google Maps
2. Hover over the “Layers” tile in the lower-left corner then click ‘Satellite’

3. Use the + button in the lower right corner to zoom in as much as possible
4. Right click on one corner of your garden space then select ‘Measure distance’
5. Click on another corner of the garden and make note of this measurement
6. Click X in the pop up window at the bottom and repeat these steps to measure the other side (length or width)

After doing this you’ll have two measurements to work with- your garden length and width. Since this is an estimate, you may want to shave a few feet off each side to ensure your garden plan will ultimately fit into the space.

Before investing in materials and building new beds it’s still a good idea to get out there with a tape measure to confirm your estimates (after the snow melts!)

Plan your garden bed locations

Once you know how much space you’re working with, you can start planning where your garden beds will go.

Plug your garden measurements into Planter to start visualizing your garden bed layout. For the best performance, we suggest creating one garden to plan your garden layout then creating separate gardens for each bed to add plants.

(Garden customizations and the ability to create multiple gardens are Premium features)

A few things to think about when deciding where to place your garden beds:

• Sunlight: most veggie plants need full sun to grow properly, so it’s important to note which parts of the garden get full sun. If you haven’t already mapped the sun in your garden in the summer, try Shademap.app. Enter your garden address and pick a summer day to simulate the sun and shade from dawn to dusk.
• Access and pathways: make sure the size of the garden beds will be comfortable to reach across for working and harvesting and leave enough space between beds to walk with tools and a wheelbarrow.
• Vertical structures: some crops, such as pole beans and peas, indeterminate tomatoes, and cucumbers, perform best when grown vertically. Think about where you’ll place trellises and other structures, and how they could cast shade on your plants (this shade may be desirable or undesirable depending on the plant).
• Drainage: if there are areas of your garden where you know the soil stays soggy most of the time, you might want to avoid placing garden beds there or plan on building raised beds.

Decide which plants to grow

Now that you’ve planned your garden bed layout it’s time for the fun part– picking the plants you want to grow! To decide which plants to grow ask yourself a few questions:

• What veggies do you and your family like to eat? If you grow veggies that you don’t end up eating that often, your gardening efforts might end up going to waste.
• What grows well in your area? Review the How to Grow information in Planter to see which plants you’ll need to start indoors (or buy from a garden center) and to get a sense of which plants will grow well in your climate.
• What plants are space and cost efficient? If you have a small garden, growing large pumpkin plants might not be a good use of space. Consider growing premium lettuces, dwarf tomatoes, and herbs that will produce a worthwhile harvest in a small space.
• Are the plants perennials? Perennial plants that come back every year need to be selected and placed thoughtfully to make sure they’ll have the right growing conditions and enough space to reach their full size.

If you haven’t created your garden plan for this year yet, now is the time! A successful garden starts with a solid garden plan, and Planter makes garden planning as fun as planting!

Is the season really over?

Before calling it quits on your garden, consider using some season-extension techniques to keep growing well into winter! You might not be able to keep your heat-loving plants like tomatoes and peppers alive, but lots of veggies such as spinach, kale, and chard are very cold-hardy, especially with some added protection. Keep in mind that plants take significantly longer to grow as the days get shorter and colder, so season extension tends to work best for protecting already-established plants.

Keep on growing with grow lights

While you might be able to grow some veggies and herbs indoors by placing them by a south-facing windowsill, edible plants can struggle to get enough light indoors without the help of grow lights. Compact plants such as lettuce, herbs, green onions, and microgreens are all great options for growing under lights. Plants that tend to grow larger can be grown under lights, but they are more challenging due to the space that’s needed. While grow lights can feel like a big investment, they are also useful for starting seeds indoors so in the long run you can save money by growing your own seedlings for the garden! And if you just don’t feel like messing around with having dirt indoors, you might want to consider a tabletop hydroponic growing system.

Care for your overwintered plants

If you decided to bring any of your plants indoors for the winter, they will need some attention to survive until they can be planted out in the garden again. Often with overwintered plants the goal is to keep them alive in a semi-dormant state, rather than actively growing and producing. Place the plants in an area of your home where they will get indirect light, with a tray under them to catch any water and soil. Water the plants lightly and infrequently- you don’t want the soil to stay bone dry, but you also don’t want it to be totally soaked. Don’t fertilize overwintering plants as it could stimulate an unwanted flush of new growth.

Experiment with ‘exotic’ plants

Winter is a good time to play around with starting plants that typically won’t grow in your climate. Try growing a pineapple from a pineapple top, a mini citrus tree in a pot, or have a go at sprouting an avocado pit! While it might be a struggle to grow these plants to a point where they will ultimately produce a harvest, it can be a fun project to start when the weather is feeling anything but tropical!

Try growing mushrooms with a kit

Since it can be tricky to give plants the light and space they need to grow indoors, you might want to use the winter months to give mushroom growing a go instead. Mushroom growing kits take the guesswork out of growing mushrooms- all you need to do is place them in indirect light and keep the growing medium consistently moist. Although the kits might not produce a fortune in mushrooms, it’s neat to be able to grow something at a time of year when growing edible plants can be a challenge!

Organize your seed collection

Before ordering seeds for next season, take stock of the seeds you already have and organize them for the upcoming season. Plastic boxes with dividers work well for organizing your seeds into categories. Be aware that seeds can start to lose viability over time so you might start to see a decline in germination if they’ve been sitting around for several years. If you’re unsure whether the seed is still viable, try sprouting a few to confirm. To maximize the life of your seeds in storage, keep them in a cool, dry place away from light.

Read a great garden book

Winter is the perfect time to catch-up on garden-related reading! There is so much to be learned from reading gardening books, and your local library likely has a vast selection of books on every gardening topic imaginable. This winter I’m reading: All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew (Planter uses Square Foot Gardening spacing recommendations!), Vertical Gardening by Derek Fell, and The Complete Guide to Saving Seeds by Robert E. Gough.

Start planning next year’s garden

It’s never too early to start brainstorming ideas for the next gardening season! Get started with planning next year’s garden in Planter, so you’re ready to order seeds and get a head start on the growing season!

Being trapped indoors doesn’t mean you have to give up on gardening entirely. Look for ways to keep the growing going in spite of the weather, and take advantage of the downtime to start planning for an awesome growing season next year!

Clear out spent plants

It’s tempting to leave dead plants in the ground to be dealt with next spring. After all, isn’t it good to provide shelter for all those overwintering critters? When it comes to the veggie garden, it’s best to clear away all the dead and dying plant debris before winter as leaving it laying in the garden bed can harbor diseases and unwanted insects. Spent plants can be added to the compost pile, although you might want to exercise caution with diseased plants. If your compost pile doesn’t ‘heat up’ properly, the diseases won’t be killed off in the composting process and could spread to next year’s plants.

Tackle those weeds

When your garden is no longer filled to the gills with growing plants, the empty space gives weeds an opportunity to creep in. You might be inclined to ignore the weeds if you aren’t actively growing many crops, but if you leave them for spring they might drop more seeds or continue to grow and spread. Clear your garden of weeds before winter hits, so you can start off with a clean slate in spring.

Protect your plants

As the nights get frosty, you can extend your harvests by using season extension techniques- covering your plants so they can survive into fall (and even winter!) as long as possible. For perennial plants and trees, you may want to consider surrounding them with chicken wire to protect them from rabbits and deer that could come for a nibble over winter. Some plants can tolerate being overwintered indoors, so if you have a super-special plant that you really want to save you can potentially dig it up- look into instructions for overwintering that specific plant.

Plant garlic (for a crop next year)

One of the crops you should plant in the fall is garlic, for harvesting next year. Garlic sets can be purchased from garden centers, local farms, or online; hardneck varieties do best in colder climates whereas softneck varieties are suited for warmer climates. Separate out the largest, healthiest cloves and plant them roughly 3-4 weeks before the ground starts to freeze completely (check the How to Grow information in Planter for spacing and planting details!) You don’t want to plant too early, as the garlic could sprout and start trying to grow before winter. But if you plant too late the garlic will not have time to develop a healthy root system to survive winter.

Amend your soil

Fall is an excellent time to add some soil amendments, as it gives time for them to work into the soil and become available for next year’s plants. You might want to do a soil test before adding any amendments to know if you need to adjust the soil PH or adjust specific nutrients. Amendments such as compost, manure, and elements to raise or lower PH can be added in the fall, but do not apply nitrogen-rich fertilizer- nitrogen is prone to being leached away over the winter and can inadvertently stimulate a flush of growth on perennial plants that will get killed off in cold weather.

Add a fresh layer of mulch

Applying mulch to your garden in the fall helps to prevent soil erosion over the winter and provides food for the soil life that your garden needs to flourish. Plus, in the fall you’re likely to find lots of mulch readily available in the form of fallen tree leaves!

Show your garden tools some love

Your garden tools have served you well through the whole growing season- fall is an opportune time to show them some love. Wash, disinfect, and dry tools thoroughly. Sharpen any tools that need to be sharpening and apply oil to tools with moving parts. Store your tools in a clean, dry place where they’ll be ready to go for the spring!

Plan and build for next year’s garden

Most of us start dreaming and planning for next year’s garden in winter. But fall is the ideal time to use Planter to start planning your garden for next year! The challenges and successes of the current season will be fresh in your mind to incorporate into your upcoming year’s plans. You can even start building garden structures such as raised beds and trellises. If you get these structures built in fall you’ll have them at the ready for early spring planting. Bear in mind that the structures could shift around a bit over winter; if possible, store them in a garage or shed for a quick set-up come spring.

It’s easy to just abandon your garden in fall and wait for the next garden season. But taking care of these fall garden chores will help get your garden off to a good start next year (and keep your existing plants going just that little bit longer). So don’t hide inside this fall…pick a sunny, warm(ish) day and get out in the garden!

Cook with the harvest

While salads are an obvious option to make use of greens and veggies, it can sometimes get boring to eat salad with every meal! To use up more produce in your everyday cooking, look for dishes where you can add just about any veggie that needs to get eaten pronto. Pasta, fried rice, chili, fajitas, stir fries, roasted veggies, soups and stews are all dishes where you can easily incorporate the veggies you have on hand. Creating your own sauces and salsas is also a great way to use up a bounty of tomatoes, herbs, and chilies. Also, look for ways to swap in veggies in place of other ingredients- think zucchini noodles, lettuce wraps, or eggplant burgers.

When it comes to cooking with your garden produce, don’t feel constrained by specific recipes or dishes you are familiar with. Be creative and invent your own new favorite dishes!

Storing produce long-term

While canning is an excellent way to preserve huge amounts of produce long past season’s end, it can be daunting for newbies and does involve a fair bit of work. If you are feeling inspired to start canning, be sure to check out our introductory canning guide! But don’t worry if you’re not ready to take up canning just yet, there are still plenty of ways to preserve your garden produce.

Freezing is one of the best ways to store many different types of veggies. Wash and chop up greens such as kale and spinach, before portioning them into plastic bags and freezing them to easily throw into recipes as needed. Peppers also freeze remarkably well- smaller peppers such as serranos, cayennes and jalapenos can be frozen whole, then pulled out and cut up while they are still semi-frozen. For larger peppers you may want to cut them into strips or chunks first before freezing as this is easier than trying to remove the seeds and cores as they thaw out. Some veggies such as broccoli, beans and peas are best blanched in boiling water before being frozen on baking sheets then stored in freezer bags. Others, such as zucchini and squash, are best grated or cubed up before portioning into freezer bags, so you can easily defrost and cook with them (zucchini bread, anyone?)

Drying and dehydrating are relatively hands-off ways to store produce for the long haul. Even if you don’t have a dehydrator kicking around in your kitchen, you can still preserve plenty of things just by air-drying- especially for herbs and spices. Wash your herbs if needed, then pat dry and leave them on drying racks or bunch them and hang them to dry in a place where they will get plenty of airflow. You can also use your oven at low temperature as a dehydrator- look for recipes specific to the veggies you want to dehydrate.

Pickling and fermenting are also both great options for preserving veggies. There are lots of ‘refrigerator pickle’ and ‘quick pickle’ recipes for all kinds of different veggies- cucumbers, radishes, carrots, jalapenos, and beets, just to name a few. So long as you follow a reliable recipe, refrigerator pickles will keep for quite some time in the fridge even though they haven’t gone through the canning process. And while fermentation can get a bit technical, try easing into it with a super-basic sauerkraut recipe.

Other use-it-up ideas

If you can’t make it through the bounty just by cooking and preserving it, there are lots of other ways to make use of your crops. Of course you can always share with friends, family, and neighbors, or perhaps look to swap produce with fellow gardeners. Some food pantries also accept fresh food donations- be sure to call ahead to confirm that your produce will be accepted before dropping by.

You may want to try your hand at creating natural dyes with your garden produce. Or, if you are totally done with harvesting, you can leave your veggies growing long enough to be able to save seeds for next year (note that seed saving works best with heirloom varieties).

If you still can’t make it through your veggies fast enough, use the spoiled produce to create compost for your garden. Turning would-be waste into compost for your garden will help nourish your soil and ensure your future plants are healthy and productive.

Having a glut of veggies to deal with is always a good problem to have! With a little effort, you can make sure none of your precious garden produce is thrown away. (And when you’re planning next year’s garden in Planter, you can always re-evaluate…do I really need three zucchini plants?)

What is season extension?

Gardeners use season extension techniques to help plants grow outside of their optimal growing season. In the home garden, it’s common to use season extension techniques to help cool-season crops get going earlier in the spring and grow later into fall than they would otherwise be able to.

You might wonder whether it’s worth the time and expense to extend the growing season. While you could simply let nature take its course, you don’t need a fancy heated greenhouse to fend off the cold. You can extend the growing season with nothing more than some found materials and a few minutes each day!

Garden cloches

A garden cloche is typically a container that fits over top of a plant to protect it. Plastic or glass cloches can help trap heat and protect plants from cold, drying winds. Cloches can be purchased in a range of styles and sizes - just be sure to choose one that is designed to protect plants from the cold. Due to their smaller size cloches do not protect well in extremely cold weather but they will help guard against milder frosts.

To DIY your own cloche, find the right sized plastic or glass containers to cover your plants- recycled containers or old Tupperware are great options.

Regardless of whether you are buying or DIYing your cloches, be sure the cloche sits snugly on the soil surface so as not to let cold air seep in. Cloches will need to be vented or removed if the sun comes out during the day- just don’t forget to close them before the temperatures drop at night or on cloudy days!

Row cover

Row cover is a woven fabric (or sometimes plastic) that goes over rows of plants to help protect them from chilly temperatures. Like cloches, row cover does not protect well against deep cold but it does offer a few degrees of frost protection. Row cover is often sold in large sizes, so you may need to cut it down to the size you need for your garden. Row cover can be suspended above your plants with garden hoops, or lightweight floating row cover can be draped directly on top of your plants without the need for a support structure. Fabric garden row cover doesn’t need to be removed during the day as it is designed to let sunlight and water through. Some gardeners leave row cover on all season long to protect crops from insects and extreme weather.

If you don’t want to purchase row cover, you can use fabric and plastic from around the house to help protect your plants. Old sheets can be used so long as they are not too heavy. For an extra layer of protection, you can also use cut-up plastic garbage bags on top of the sheets. You will need to take off the plastic and sheets during the day so the plants can get sunlight, and replace them again at night to protect from frost. Also, proceed with caution if rain is in the forecast as these materials will not let water through and the added weight could crush the plants underneath.

To secure row cover to the ground, use stones, bricks, soil, or other heavy objects. Be sure to secure the cover as tightly as possible as open gaps will let the cold air in.

Cold frames

While cold frames require a bit of engineering, they will protect your plants in very cold temperatures. In some climates it’s even possible to keep growing through winter with a cold frame! To build a cold frame you can buy a cold frame kit, or, if you are handy, use recycled materials such as plastic sheeting, old windows, and doors to make your own. A quick search will turn up plenty of results for DIY cold frame projects.

Set up your cold frame so it faces south to get the most possible sun (and warmth). Open your cold frame a crack on sunny days to avoid cooking the plants inside - and don’t forget to seal it at night and on colder, cloudy days.

Season extension doesn’t need to be complicated or expensive. With a bit of time and some creative upcycling, you can keep on enjoying harvests even once the cold weather rolls in!

How to harvest, and when to harvest, will vary for different crops:

How to harvest tomatoes

Tomatoes can usually be harvested by carefully snapping them off the plant- stabilizing the branch in one hand and gently pulling on the tomato with the other. In many cases the tomatoes will easily separate from the vine, although some varieties have sturdier stems than others. If you feel any resistance, or just want to be cautious, opt for fine-tipped pruning shears to cut the tomato free. If you use shears, it’s a good idea to sanitize them with rubbing alcohol when moving from plant to plant to prevent disease spread.

To decide when to harvest your tomatoes, there are some trade-offs between flavor and productivity to think about:

Tomatoes can be harvested when they are fully ripe. A tomato is fully ripe when it has reached the full-grown size and deepest possible color expected for the variety. To recall what size and color your tomatoes should be, use Planter to keep track of which tomato varieties grow where in your garden:

Many people believe that leaving tomatoes to fully ripen on the plant gives them the best flavor. But leaving tomatoes on the plant to ripen can have some drawbacks. First, the plant may produce less tomatoes overall as it continues to put some of its energy into the ripening fruit. Second, tomatoes left on the plant longer have a higher chance of being attacked by bugs or birds, or falling off and rotting. Or, sometimes you just need to get tomatoes off the plant as frost approaches.

As soon as tomatoes just barely start to change color from green to yellow, pink, or red*, they will be able to continue ripening off the plant. This is called the ‘breaker stage’ of ripeness. After harvesting, leave the tomatoes on the counter in a paper bag to ripen fully (do not put them in the fridge!) You can be the judge of whether tomatoes ripened this way have a noticeable flavor difference compared to those ripened on the plant!

*Green tomato varieties are an exception- you’ll need to gently squeeze the tomato to tell if it’s ripe. Ripe tomatoes should give slightly when squeezed; if it’s rock hard it’s not ripe yet.

How to harvest squash

How and when to harvest squash depends on whether you are dealing with summer squash, such as zucchini or pattypan, or winter squash, such as butternut or acorn squash. Summer squash can be gently twisted off the plant, but with this technique there is some risk of damaging the squash or the plant. To avoid this, it’s recommended to carefully cut the squash off with a knife, leaving about 1” of the stem on the squash.

Summer squash should be harvested as soon as the fruits reach the expected size for their variety. Once your summer squash plants start producing be sure to check the plant every few days for fruits that are ready to be harvested. Frequent harvesting will encourage the plant to keep on producing, and will help ensure the squash get picked before they become too large, tough, and seedy.

Winter squash should be harvested once the squash has reached full size and the skin has toughened up. Test this by gently pressing a fingernail into the skin - it should not puncture easily. When harvesting winter squash keep a 2” stem attached to the squash- keeping a bit of stem attached will help the squash last in storage.

How to harvest lettuce

There are two main approaches to harvesting lettuce. With lettuce varieties that produce a head, such as romaine or Boston, usually the entire plant is harvested once a sizable, firm head has formed. To harvest a lettuce head, gently tilt the plant to the side so the stem is visible and cut it underneath the leaves.

The other harvesting technique that can be used for lettuce is called ‘cut-and-come-again’, where only some leaves are removed from the plant at a time, leaving most of the plant intact to keep growing. Cut-and-come-again harvesting is typically used with “loose leaf” lettuce varieties. Cut-and-come-again harvesting can be done by cutting or plucking the lower (oldest) leaves off as close as possible to the stem, leaving the upper (newer) leaves intact. It’s also possible to slice leaves off by cutting across the top few inches of the plant. While slicing crosswise is faster than removing individual leaves, it can be easy to sever the growing stem- stunting or killing the plant.

With either technique, be on the lookout for bolting which can cause your lettuce plants to turn unappetizingly bitter.

How to harvest peas and beans

When harvesting peas and beans, be careful not to yank on the plants as the stems can easily snap. Secure the plant in one hand and pull off pods with the other, ideally keeping a small piece of stem on the pod.

The trick with beans and peas is knowing when they are ready to be picked. There can be a fine line between not-ready-yet and too-far-gone, depending on the type of peas and beans you grow:

• For garden peas, the peas should be fully mature but still sweet. Snap peas should be harvested when the pods are tender and the peas inside are round and sweet. Snow peas are harvested when the pods are full-size but still flat.
• Snap beans should be harvested when the pods are full-size and the beans inside are not too mature and round. Shelling beans can be harvested when the beans inside have reached maturity but are still soft.
• If you are growing a drying-type pea or bean, things are a little bit easier- harvest when the pods are fully dry.

Harvest time is an exciting time in the garden; it’s the culmination of all the time and care you put into your plants. Following good harvest practices ensures you’ll get the best results for your efforts- veggies picked at their prime, and plants that keep on producing!

Even though summer can get hectic, don’t forget to take a step back from the to-do list to plan your fall garden. While the tomatoes are ripening and the peppers are plumping, it’s time to be thinking about which seeds to sow and seedlings to transplant for fall harvests.

Why plant a fall garden?

As your first frost date approaches, you can still plant cool season crops as they can tolerate a frost or even a freeze. In some ways, fall crops can be easier to grow than spring crops as the ground is readily workable and temperatures drop into the ranges that cool-season crops prefer rather than getting hotter. Cool-season crops can sometimes struggle to germinate in high heat though, so if you are planting from seed you may want to consider starting indoors or setting up some shade cloth. Above all, make sure the soil is kept consistently moist until the plants start to take off.

Another advantage of planting cool season crops in fall is that some of them, such as carrots, parsnips, beets, cabbage, and kale, will actually sweeten up after enduring a frost!

What plants can I grow in fall?

Most cool season crops will grow well in fall, so long as they are started with enough time to reach maturity. These include:

Brassicas: brassicas such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and kale do very well growing into fall as they are generally quite frost-tolerant, and their flavor improves with the frost. These crops do take some time to reach maturity though, roughly 60-80 days or more from seeding to harvest depending on the plant and variety, so be sure to start seeds in time or buy transplants from a garden center.

Lettuces and leafy greens: lettuces and leafy greens such as spinach, chard, and arugula are rock stars in a fall garden. They grow quickly and can be harvested repeatedly until the cold weather finally knocks them out. In most cases the leafy greens are not as frost resistant as brassicas, so you may want to consider protecting them with a hoop house or some floating row cover, to help extend the harvests once chilly weather sets in.

Root vegetables: root vegetables are great candidates for a fall garden. Radishes are especially quick to mature and can be planted well into fall. Others such as parsnips, carrots, and beets take longer, so again be sure they have enough time left in the season to mature. Root crops often don’t transplant well, so buying seedlings from the garden center may not be a viable option.

Garlic and shallots: unlike the other fall crops that are planted in summer and grow into fall, garlic and shallots are planted in late fall for harvesting next season. While they don’t need to go in the ground now, you will still want to be thinking about where to plant them when the time comes and ordering sets soon to be sure they will arrive in time for planting.

When should I plant my fall garden?

To sort out when to get your seeds started and your transplants planted out for your fall garden, look for Cool season plants in Planter:

Then, look at the number of days needed for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant. Work backwards from your first frost date to determine when you need to plant to ensure there is still enough time for the plant to mature and produce a harvest. While frost-tolerant plants can keep growing past your first frost date, it is good to get your fall crops planted with a bit of extra time in case of slower growth or extreme weather conditions.

There is a lot to tend to in the garden in the midst of summer, but it’s also time to plan ahead and start planting for fall. Planter makes it easy to figure out which crops can be planted for a fall harvest, so you can spend more time getting out in the garden!

Plant wilting

Plant wilting can be a sign of a suffering plant, but not always. On hot days, many plants naturally wilt as a way of preserving themselves through the heat. So how can you tell if your plant is truly suffering or just beating the heat?

The first clue is the weather- if the plant is wilting when it’s not hot and sunny out, there’s likely something else afoot. Do the ‘finger test’- stick your finger a couple inches into the soil, and if the soil feels dry then your plant is likely suffering from a lack of moisture and needs additional watering. If the soil feels wet, it’s possible that the plant is wilting from over watering. In this case, ease up on watering and if you’re growing in containers make sure they have good drainage.

If the soil feels just nicely moist, leave the plant and see if it bounces back on its own overnight. If it does, it was likely just protecting itself from the heat of the day. If it still looks limp, further investigation is needed. Check for signs of damage to the plant that could be causing the plant to wilt, especially along the stem. For squash plants in particular, squash vine borers can cause the plant to wilt dramatically as they burrow into the stems. If you spot a hole in your squash stem, you can attempt to carefully pick out the borer with a knife.

There are also diseases that can cause wilt- such as verticillium wilt or fusarium wilt. These diseases are usually not treatable; if you’ve eliminated other potential causes and suspect your plant has a wilt disease it’s best to remove the plant.

Discolored leaves

While plant leaves naturally come in many variations of green, if they start to turn unusually yellow, brown, purple, or white, that is a clue that the plant might be in trouble.

Yellow leaves can be a sign of underwatering or over watering (the under/over watering dilemma strikes again!) or a lack of nitrogen. To sort out which it is, think about how much rainfall there’s been, how much you’ve been watering (do the ‘finger test’ again), and when you last fertilized. One cause should stand out as the most likely. Or, sometimes plant problems come in tandem- for example, excessive rain or watering can both waterlog plants and cause nitrogen to leach away. Try to resolve the most likely culprit first - either change up your watering habits, or give the plant some nitrogen-rich fertilizer (be careful not to overdo it if using synthetic fertilizer, though).

Brown leaves are commonly a sign of underwatering (or, over watering…again!), or over fertilizing. Bump up your watering if you think the plant is thirsty, or to help flush away excess fertilizer. Diseases can cause leaf browning, too. If it’s unlikely that the leaf browning is water or fertilizer related, look for unusual spots or patterns on the leaves and research the markings to help identify the disease and treatment options.

Purple leaves can often be a sign of a phosphorus deficiency - in this case, apply a fertilizer containing phosphorus.

And if the leaves have a new powdery white coating that was not there before, a common cause is powdery mildew. Powdery mildew cannot be cured once it sets in; it can only be managed. Look for a powdery mildew spray- or find a DIY powdery mildew spray recipe- to help contain the problem.

Leaves with holes, damaged or misshapen leaves

Seeing leaves with holes, damaged or misshapen leaves are often a sign of pests feasting on your plants. The trick is to identify which pest is doing the deed.

Inspect the plant thoroughly for insects- oftentimes they will be clinging onto the undersides of the leaves or hiding in the canopy. Getting eyes on the pest will make it much easier to identify them and research potential solutions.

Another technique if you can’t catch the offender in the act is to look at the damage pattern. Curled or puckered leaves are often a sign of aphids, whereas trails being chewed through leaves are a telltale sign of leaf miners. If you wake up every morning to find new holes in your plants that were not there the day before, the culprit is likely slugs who come out at night. And if your plants are regularly being mowed down, it could be rabbits having a munch.

It often takes some research and process of elimination to figure out what’s ailing your plants. You won’t always be certain about what’s wrong, but you can still try non-invasive treatments to see if they help. Use the Notes and Events premium features in Planter to keep track of your observations, which treatments you try, and the results:

Every garden has its problems, but don’t let them shake your gardening confidence. Keep your garden going strong by keeping an eye out for trouble, and above all else keep on planting!

Why trellis tomatoes?

Trellising tomato plants helps to:

• Keep the foliage up off the ground which, along with pruning, helps prevent soil-borne diseases
• Increase airflow around the plant, which also helps reduce the spread of disease
• Maximize garden space, as the plants can be grown closer together than if they were allowed to grow wild
• Provide extra support for plants that are heavily fruit-laden, so they don’t flop over or end up with broken branches

While you can let your tomato plants grow au naturel, for many tomato varieties trellising is important for healthy plants and abundant harvests.

Do my tomatoes need to be trellised?

Most tomato plants, other than specialized dwarf and micro varieties, benefit from some added support. Trellising techniques for tomato plants are slightly different depending on whether the variety is determinate or indeterminate:

• Determinate tomato varieties have a bushing growth habit. They grow to a fixed height then stop, and they produce their entire fruit yield in one go. Determinate tomatoes can grow well without trellising, but giving them some support can be beneficial.
• Indeterminate tomato varieties have a vining growth habit and will keep on growing until they are killed off by frost, or another cause. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruit continuously rather than all at once. Indeterminate tomatoes generally need more intensive trellising to fulfill their full fruiting potential.

Check whether the tomato varieties you grow are determinate or indeterminate, to help decide how to trellis them.

Tomato trellising options

There are many different ways to provide support for your tomato plants. Some of the most common are:

Tomato cages while technically not a trellis, tomato cages are probably the most well-known tomato support structures. Basic tomato cages found at big-box stores can sometimes be a bit flimsy and might not provide much support for plants that are heavily laden with fruit. Shorter cages also won’t work well for indeterminate tomatoes that want to climb- they’ll need an extra-tall cage. Cages can still be a good option, especially if you look for ones that are sturdily built (or, build your own!)

Florida weave (or basket weave) trellising involves setting up tall, sturdy posts at either end of the tomato bed (and at regular intervals between the tomato plants if your bed is long), then using twine to enclose the plants along both sides. The twine is looped around each of the posts and pulled tight to ensure the plants won’t flop to either side. This technique is mostly used for determinate tomatoes that will only grow so high, but it can be used for indeterminate tomatoes by constructing a tall trellis and cutting off the top of the growing stem once the plants reach the height of the trellis.

String (overhead) trellising is a technique where individual tomato plants are wrapped around a piece of twine as they grow, with the twine being suspended from a tall support structure above. This method is generally used for indeterminate tomatoes that will keep on growing vertically. If the plants do reach the top of the trellis they can then be ‘lowered and leaned’ by adding some slack to the strings and moving them over to the side gradually, so the plants can keep on growing by leaning more and more to the side.

There are many variations on these techniques as well as some truly creative DIY trellis builds! So long as your tomato plants are lifted up off the ground and supported, feel free to try different options and use materials that are most readily available for you. Just be sure the structure is strong enough to withstand windy weather…and the weight of all those delicious ripening tomatoes getting ready to be harvested!

Will my garden survive while I’m away?

If you’re only going away for a couple days, your plants might be fine without any special attention. But, it can still be helpful to take steps to be sure your plants survive. If you’re heading off for a weeklong trip or longer, it’s more critical to plan ahead to ensure that your plants will receive water if temperatures skyrocket and there’s no rainfall.

Vacation travel often happens during the summer months when there are more likely to be hot, dry spells that can quickly zap your plants. As your vacation approaches, start checking the weather forecast. If there’s a high probability of rain on some of the days you’ll be away, your garden may not need extra watering. If temperatures are soaring and the chance of rain is low, you’ll need to think about how to make sure your plants will have enough water while you’re gone.

Summer is also the start of peak harvesting season. If you leave your garden without being harvested regularly, some crops may go to waste (unless you can find creative ways to use monster-size zucchini…) and the plants’ production may start to slow due to not being harvested. If your plants are starting to produce, you’ll also want to think about how to get on top of harvesting while you’re gone.

Another consideration is how vulnerable your plants are. Newly planted transplants and young emerging seedlings need more consistent moisture compared to well-established plants. Also, container plants are especially prone to drying out completely on hot days. If you have vulnerable plants, they will likely need some extra care to make it through.

How to prepare your garden for vacation

The best way to make sure your garden is cared for while you’re gone is to have another avid gardener come to take care of watering and harvesting your garden. Often though, if you are lucky enough to have someone who can come care for your garden, it’s family, neighbors, or friends who might not be as garden-savvy. If you ask a non-gardener to take care of your garden while you’re away, it can help to leave clear written instructions on how often you think they’d need to water, how much to water and where, and how to identify and harvest any crops that are ready.

If you don’t have anyone nearby who you can entrust your garden care to, there are other ways to help your garden survive while you’re gone:

• Hold off on transplanting plants or planting seeds right before leaving- these have the highest likelihood of dying if they are neglected for a few days.
• Deep water your garden daily starting a few days before leaving to ensure the soil has plenty of moisture.
• If your budget allows, install drip irrigation or soaker hoses and put the system on a watering timer to take care of the watering for you. If you are planning on using an irrigation system with a timer, make sure to test it several times before leaving.
• Remove any weeds that can compete for water and nutrients and be sure your garden has a thick layer of mulch covering it to help keep moisture in the soil.
• Add some shade for plants that tend to suffer in dry, hot weather, such as leafy greens. You can install shade cloth over them, or rig up some old bedsheets for a quick-and-cheap solution - just make sure the plants will get enough airflow.
• Container plants should also be moved to a shady location. To ensure the containers have enough moisture, you can purchase (or make your own) watering spikes; or place the containers in buckets or trays and fill the trays partway with water so the plants can take up water as they need it. Take the plants out of the shade and the trays when you get home, though, or they may start to suffer.
• Proactively harvest any veggies that could go from not-quite-ready to beyond-ready while you’re away.

Plan for your garden while you’re gone so you can enjoy the hot sunny weather, rather than wondering if your plants are burning up!

The growing season can sneak up on even the most enthusiastic gardener. New gardeners just getting inspired to start a garden might be discouraged to find out the season is already well underway. If you’re in either of these situations, or just want to reinvigorate your garden, there are many ways to give your garden a kick-start in the middle of the growing season.

How can I start a new garden mid-season?

It’s absolutely doable to start a garden, or add a new garden bed (or two…or three..) in the midst of the growing season. The key is to find plants that have enough time to grow to maturity and produce a harvest before the season ends. You can check this by looking at the number of days for Germination and the number of days from Sprout to Harvest for that plant in Planter:

So long as you have enough days left before your first frost date for the seeds to germinate and go from sprout to harvest, you can grow that crop! If you just barely have enough days left in the season, you might be risking a loss if an early frost sets in. To guard against this, look for plants in Planter that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant of frost. Some of the frost-hardy plants may struggle to grow in the hottest part of the season, though, so you may want to wait to plant them when the heat is starting to let up a bit (so long as there is still enough time in the season.)

Another great option to get your garden going is to buy transplants from garden centers. Transplants from garden centers will have a significant head start- sometimes they are already producing flowers and veggies! As the season wears on you might even snag some discounts. Longer-term, it’s less expensive to grow your own plants from seeds if you can, but buying transplants from a garden center is still better than not having any plants!

If you’re just starting to think about getting a garden going but are feeling overwhelmed with trying to get everything ready for mid-season planting, take the time instead to plan for a late-season garden or for next year’s garden. The extra research and planning will help make your garden even more successful when you do get it up-and-running.

Adjusting your garden mid-season

If you’ve managed to stay on top of things and planted your garden early in the season, that doesn’t mean that the only thing left to do is water and wait. Mid-season is a great time to remove plants that are diseased, dying, or have bolted, and replace them with fresh new plants. As you start harvesting your first plantings, some gaps may open up in your garden. Ideally if you are able to plan your succession planting ahead, you can have replacement transplants and seeds ready-to-go to fill any gaps. Keep your garden plan in Planter up-to-date to keep track of crops you plan to remove, and which plants you will add as replacements.

If your garden isn’t where you want it to be by mid-season, don’t let that dampen your desire to garden. There are plenty of things you can do to ramp-up your garden mid-season, and get that early-season excitement back!

What is bolting?

When a plant bolts it focuses all its energy on producing flowers and seeds, instead of growing new, lush leaves or larger roots. When a plant starts to bolt it sends up a thick, tough stem with feathery leaves- the flowers and seeds will form on this stem. Plants affected by bolting include: leafy greens and herbs such as lettuces and cilantro, radishes, beets, spinach, cabbages, onions, and carrots. With crops that produce fruits, like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers, we don’t refer to the flowering and fruiting process as bolting.

Producing flowers and seeds is a natural part of a plant’s life cycle. But what actually triggers plants to bolt? There are many factors that can signal plants to start bolting including temperature changes, changes in daylight hours, and stress from a lack of water or nutrients. Bolting is often blamed on warming temperatures as the growing season progresses, but in many cases it is cooler temperatures early in the plant’s growth as well as changes in daylight hours that contribute to bolting (yes, your plants are counting the hours of daylight!) Different plants will have specific temperature and daylight conditions that trigger them to bolt.

Why is it ‘bad’ when plants bolt?

While bolting for plants is totally normal, for gardeners it can be undesirable. When plants bolt, the parts of the plant we typically eat become unappetizing. With leafy greens, bolting causes the leaves to become extremely bitter and the plant will stop putting on new leaves. With root vegetables, the roots will stop swelling and can become tough and woody.

Bolting isn’t all bad news for us gardeners, though! While we usually want our crops to have tender greens and large roots, bolted plants have their benefits too:

• The flowers will help attract much-needed pollinators to your garden.
• Some bolted plants have delicious, edible seed pods that are hard to come by in stores! Bolted radishes will produce edible green pods that have a mild radish flavor. Bolted cilantro plants produce coriander seeds - which can be dried and used as a spice, but they are also delicious to eat while still green.
• If you are growing heirloom varieties, you can save the seeds for future planting.

But what if I want to delay bolting?

Not convinced about those radish pods? Still want to grow fresh lettuce mid-season? While bolting can’t be avoided outright, there are ways to stave it off:

• Use shade to your advantage: while most garden plants need full sun, many of the crops that tend to bolt, such as lettuce, can grow in part-shade. Planting bolt-prone crops in shadier locations can help to delay bolting significantly.
• Ensure the plant has sufficient moisture and nutrients. A stressed plant will tend to hasten flowering and seed production.
• Regular harvesting of the outer (oldest) leaves of leafy vegetables and herbs can help encourage the plant to keep producing new leaves. Some leafy crops can be harvested by hand but for a delicate job you may want to use fine-tipped pruning shears.

• For some plants, such as basil, snipping off flower stalks as soon as they appear can encourage the plant to keep on growing leaves. For others, like lettuce, unfortunately this will have little effect as the leaves will already be turning bitter.
• Succession planting can help to ensure consistent harvests of plants that have not yet bolted.
• There are also bolt-resistant plant varieties available: look for terms like ‘bolt-resistant’, ‘slobolt’, and ‘boltardy’ on the seed packet.

Despite your best efforts, at some point your bolt-prone plants will go to seed. When this happens you can pull the plants up and compost them to add nutrients back to your soil. Or, leave them to do their thing and enjoy the crop in a new way!

Why are weeds in the garden ‘bad’?

Weeds aren’t all bad. In nature, weeds cover and reclaim bare soil. They are amazingly well-adapted to grow under the harshest conditions (have you ever seen a weed growing out the tiniest crack in the sidewalk and thought…how?), and they develop living ecosystems in otherwise barren areas.

Weeds can be a problem in the garden, though. They compete with garden plants for sunlight, water, and nutrients. This is especially true for tiny seedlings and some plants, such as carrots, that have a hard time out-growing aggressive weeds. If garden weeds run wild, they can cause heavy losses to potential harvests.

The more weeds there are in or around your garden, the more they can spread by producing seeds or by creeping underground. But if you stay on top of weed prevention and control, it is possible to make a long-lasting dent in your garden weed population.

How to prevent weeds

The saying to keep in mind with garden weeds is: ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure’ . The more proactive you can be in preventing weeds, the less time you’ll spend battling it out with them.

Some of the best ways to minimize weeds in the garden include:

Build your garden beds in a way that helps stop weeds from creeping in. Dig a trench around the garden and fill it with wood chips, cover garden edges with woven landscape fabric, or use raised garden beds.

Maintain the areas around your garden beds. If you have grassy or weedy areas around your garden, keep them mowed short so the weeds don’t have a chance to create seed heads that could land in your garden. Laying down wood chips or landscape fabric in garden walkways can help to keep weeds out of the area.

When preparing your garden for planting, be sure to remove all weeds either by hand-weeding or by cultivating (scratching) the soil surface with a garden hoe. It’s much easier to weed an empty garden bed than one filled with delicate seedlings and transplants. Avoid deep tilling if possible as it can cause more weeds to sprout as the seeds get churned up. Some gardeners leave weed remains in their beds, but if you are dealing with major weed pressure it may be best to remove and hot compost them so that any seeds and roots die.

Try to keep your soil as healthy and fertile as possible by adding organic matter such as compost (put all those composted weeds to work!) Healthy soil won’t stop weeds outright, but it will make them easier to pull and give your plants a fighting chance. And be sure to cover your soil with mulch to suppress (or kill) weeds.

Managing weeds in the garden

Despite your best weed-prevention tactics, some weeds will manage to make it into your garden. When they do, there are several options for removing them.

Hand-weeding is labor intensive, but it’s the best option for a delicate weeding job, such as around new seedlings, or for removing a few specific monster weeds. A hand weeder is helpful for pulling weeds with long deep roots, or in a pinch you can use a long-handled screwdriver.

Surface cultivation is most efficient for weeding larger garden areas, but it can be tricky to maneuver around plants to avoid damaging them. It also may not completely remove the deep-rooted weeds, although with regular cultivation they will eventually wither away. Surface cultivation works best when weeds are still small.

Boiling water can be poured directly onto weeds to kill them, but do not use boiling water anywhere near your plants. This method is best used for targeting specific, smaller weeds. Larger weeds may need to be treated more than once as boiling water may not completely kill the root.

Persistence is the key to keeping weeding manageable. Use the Notes and Events Premium features in Planter to keep track of which garden areas have been weeded and which are due for maintenance!

Weeds can wreak havoc in the garden, but it is possible to manage them. Take steps to prevent weeds from proliferating, and weeding your garden will be only an occasional, painless task!

Organic versus Synthetic Fertilizer

Garden fertilizer can be categorized as either organic fertilizer or synthetic fertilizer (commonly called ‘chemical’ fertilizer) . Organic fertilizer is fertilizer with naturally-derived ingredients that contain the nutrients that plants need in their natural state. Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured, readily available forms of plant nutrients.

Organic fertilizer is more than just one product you can buy - there are many organic sources of nutrients for plants. Some examples of organic fertilizers are:

• Bone meal and blood meal: both are animal byproducts, however blood meal mainly provides nitrogen while bone meal mainly provides phosphorus and calcium.
• Manure: there are many types of manures that make good compost including poultry, cow, sheep, and horse manure, to name a few. If you are not buying a bagged product from the garden center, make sure the manure is completely rotted down before using and is free of herbicides or pesticides.
• Alfalfa: alfalfa meal or pellets is a great source of nitrogen for the garden that can be found at garden centers and animal feed stores. Be sure the product you buy only contains alfalfa hay as an ingredient.
• Fish emulsion: fish emulsion is a relatively fast-acting liquid organic fertilizer concentrate made from fish byproducts. Brace yourself before using fish emulsion…it does have a fishy smell!
• Compost: Compost is mostly used to add organic matter to the soil, but it does contain nutrients that plants need. Compost doesn’t typically have high concentrations of nutrients, so you may still need to supplement with another fertilizer.

Because organic fertilizers have nutrients in their natural state, they need to be broken down by soil microbes before they are available for plants to use. This process can take some time compared to a synthetic fertilizer.

Synthetic fertilizers are not necessarily ‘bad’. They provide readily available forms of the key nutrients that plants need to grow. It can be easy to over-apply synthetic fertilizers though, which can harm your soil and your plants as well as contribute to environmental damage. There are ‘slow-release’ fertilizers that release nutrients over time that can help avoid this. Be sure to only use synthetic fertilizers that are labeled for use in vegetable gardens.

Regardless of whether you use organic fertilizer or synthetic, it’s a good idea to do a soil test to confirm which nutrients your soil is lacking, since both over-applying and under-applying fertilizer can cause problems. If you can’t do a soil test, stick to a mild, balanced organic fertilizer and apply it at no more than the recommended rate.

Granular versus Water-Soluble Fertilizer

There are two main fertilizer formats for use in the veggie garden: granular fertilizer and water-soluble fertilizer.

Granular fertilizers are dry, small granules (sometimes powder-like). They can be worked into the top several inches of soil or mixed with soil in the planting hole when planting. They can also be applied mid-season by ‘side dressing’ - applying on the soil surface alongside growing plants.

Water-soluble fertilizer is dissolved into water and applied with a watering can or using a hose attachment. Water-soluble fertilizer is a more direct method of delivering nutrients that can start to work faster than granular fertilizers. Using a water-soluble fertilizer can work to give your plants a quick boost when they are in need.

So, Which Fertilizer is Best?

There isn’t one ‘best’ type of fertilizer for the veggie garden! The type of fertilizer you use depends on many factors: which fertilizers are readily available, your budget, which nutrients are lacking in your soil, the types of plants you are growing, and whether you are fertilizing proactively or treating plants that are already suffering from a lack of nutrients.

This means you don’t need to buy the most expensive products at the garden center to get great results. There are many garden fertilizer options that will give your plants all the nutrients they need to flourish!

Types of Squash

Squash are members of a family of vining plants known as cucurbits (cucurbitaceae) that include zucchini, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins and gourds. Squash are traditionally divided into two groups: summer squash and winter squash. The terms ‘summer’ and ‘winter’ don’t refer to when the squash is grown - all squash are heat-loving plants - but instead refer to when they are harvested and consumed. Summer squash are generally harvested earlier, while the squash are not fully mature, and are eaten fresh. Winter squash are harvested later once the skins have become tough and thick, so the squash can be stored for up to several months.

Summer squashes include zucchini, pattypan, crookneck, and chayote.

Winter squashes include acorn, butternut, hubbard, and spaghetti.

Some types of squash, such as chayote, take a long time to mature and can be a challenge to grow in cooler climates. Other types, such as zucchini, will start producing quickly and are easier to grow in areas with shorter seasons.

Check out the squash varieties in Planter to find plants that suit your taste and your garden!

How to Grow Squash

It is generally recommended to direct seed squash, to avoid disrupting the roots with transplanting. However if you want to get a jump start on the season, it is possible to start them indoors and transplant them carefully to avoid damaging the roots.

If you plan to grow squash in containers, choose a container that will be large enough to allow the plant to reach full size.

Planter has all the detailed information you need to grow various types of squash successfully! Pay special attention to the many pests and diseases that can afflict squash. Click on each of the cards to learn about prevention, identification, and control techniques.

You can stave off disease issues by pruning your squash plants. Remove old, diseased, and dying leaves, and ensure there is good airflow through the plant. Despite your best efforts, there comes a point as the plants age where production slows and they start to die back. If you have enough time left in your growing season, you can replant (better yet, have transplants at the ready) to keep the harvests going.

Vining squashes need room to grow. You can grow them up trellises, or allow them to grow along the ground. There are pros and cons to each approach.

Trellising is more space-efficient as the plants grow up instead of out. It allows more airflow around the plants which can help prevent disease. It can also make the squash easier to harvest. Heavier types of squash may need additional support, such as slings, to stay attached to the vine.

Allowing the plants to sprawl along the ground means no engineering is required, but they take up more space. As the plants grow, they will root into the soil along the way, which can save the plant if the stem becomes injured, say from a hungry squash vine borer larva. You can help the vines root in by hilling some soil over top at different spots where they touch the ground.

When to Harvest Squash

Summer squash should be harvested when the fruits have reached the expected size for their variety. Do not leave summer squash on the plant too long, as they can become unappetizing when they are overly large and mature. Harvesting every few days, or even more often, helps ensure you pick the squash at the perfect time and encourages the plant to keep on producing. Always cut the squash off rather than twisting or pulling it, to avoid damaging the plant.

Winter squash should be harvested once the skin has had a chance to toughen up, which happens after the squash reaches full size. Test this by pressing a fingernail into the skin - it should not puncture easily. Keep at least a 2-inch piece of stem attached to the squash - this is important for the longevity of the squash in storage.

Winter squash should be cured before being stored. Use a dry towel to wipe any dirt off the squash then leave them in a sunny, dry area for 10-14 days before storing in a cool, dry spot. Depending on the type of squash, they can keep anywhere from several weeks to several months.

If you have ever been interested in growing squash in your garden, don’t let your enthusiasm be ‘squashed’… Find varieties that work in your space and enjoy the bumper crops!

Why Use Compost?

Compost benefits your garden soil in many ways:

• It adds organic matter (humus) that improves the soil structure. Sandy soils tend to drain water too quickly and leach nutrients and clay can become water-logged. Compost helps the soil hold onto the optimal amount of moisture for plants.
• It contains key nutrients that plants need to grow. Fully broken-down compost does not have high concentrations of nutrients, but the nutrients it does contain are released gradually so your plants can uptake them over time. Compost can also be a good source of trace nutrients that your plants need.
• It provides food for beneficial organisms, such as earthworms, that work to improve the health of your soil and it also contains beneficial bacteria and fungi that help your plants to uptake water and nutrients.
• Compost also makes a great mulch!

How To Compost

Composting can be as easy as throwing organic materials into a pile and waiting for them to break down. Passive composting, also known as ‘cold composting’ does work, but it can take a very long time to turn raw materials into usable compost.

With ‘hot composting’ on the other hand, a well-managed compost pile will reach temperatures between 130°F and 150°F (~55°C to 65°C) as the decomposition process generates heat. Materials break down more quickly, and any weed seeds and disease-causing organisms are killed off in the heat.

To get your compost to heat up, there are a few principles to follow. The first is the ratio of ‘brown’ carbon-rich materials to ‘green’ nitrogen-rich materials. Brown and green materials should be layered or mixed into the pile at a roughly 3:1 (brown:green) ratio. With too much brown material decomposition can slow down and with too much green material you can end up with a sludgy, stinky mess. If you see this starting to happen, add more of the type of material that is lacking. New material can be added to the pile in small quantities, but ideally the pile is built to full size - generally 4 feet x 4 feet x 4 feet (~1m x 1m x 1m) minimum - and then allowed to break down.

Shred or cut up the materials you put in the compost pile to help speed up decomposition. Whole woody plant stems will take forever to break down, but if cut up they can decompose in no-time.

Compost needs to be kept moist for decomposition to occur. Ideally rain will provide enough moisture for your compost pile, but you may need to water it during dry spells. Don’t soak your compost pile though, as this can turn the process from ‘aerobic’ (with oxygen) ‘anaerobic’ (without oxygen) which can also lead to a sludgy, stinky mess.

Lastly, compost needs to be turned regularly - that is the outer edges should be mixed into the center- to introduce oxygen and ensure all the materials get heated up.

Be aware that decomposition slows down dramatically in cold weather. Some decomposition will take place so long as the pile isn’t totally frozen, but it will not be as quick as when the weather is warmer.

When it comes to compost heap containment, there are a number of options available. An uncontained pile that is properly managed can still get ‘hot’ although it can be unsightly. A wooden or chicken wire enclosure can help contain the pile but be sure that there is easy access to turn the pile. Many gardeners use a three-bin system, where compost piles are moved from one bin to the next as they break down. There are also compost tumblers that take the work out of turning the pile, however they can be pricey and may not generate compost any faster than a properly maintained bin.

If you are interested in composting indoors, check out bokashi composting (using ‘bokashi bran’ - bacteria and yeasts) or vermicomposting (using worms). They are both great options to be able to compost year-round.

What Materials Can be Composted?

Nitrogen-rich (green) materials include: fruit and vegetable scraps, tea leaves and coffee grounds, plant trimmings, herbivore animal manures, and grass clippings.

Carbon-rich (brown) materials include: dry shredded leaves, small twigs and wood chips, and shredded, uncoated cardboard.

Some gardeners prefer to avoid adding diseased plant parts and weeds, but these can be used so long as the compost heats up.

Items such as eggshells, nutshells, fruit pits and cores are fine additions to the compost pile but can take a long time to break down. Do not include them in high ratios and crush them first if possible.

Some items that should not be added to a home compost pile are:

• Meats, fish, dairy, fats, and bones - these can take a very long time to break down, and can smell and attract animals.
• Human or carnivorous animal feces (including dogs and cats) - these can cause disease.
• Wood and plants that have been treated with herbicides, pesticides and other toxic chemicals.

Make sure your compost is fully-broken down before using it! The odd intact nutshell won’t hurt, but if you add unfinished compost into your soil in high enough quantities it may kill your plants. Finished compost should be dark brown, smell earthy, and should not have many visible uncomposted materials.

Add compost to your garden and as time goes on you will see your soil, and your plants, spring to life!

What are Legumes?

Scientifically speaking, legumes are members of the ‘Fabaceae” family. They include beans and peas, as well as some plants you might not have realized, like peanuts and clover (this article focuses on beans and peas). Legumes have the amazing ability to ‘fix’ their own nitrogen. Their roots form a relationship with bacteria in the soil that allows them to capture and use nitrogen from the air. In the garden we can take advantage of this effect by planting crops that are heavy nitrogen feeders in an area that has been previously planted with legumes.

Legumes are grown for various edible plant parts. In the case of peas, there are ‘shelling peas’ also known as ‘garden peas’ or ‘English peas’, which are grown for their peas but not the pods. Some types of shelling peas are grown to be dried and there are also ‘field peas’ which are specifically for drying. There are ‘snap peas’ which are grown for both their pods and the peas inside. With ‘snow peas’, the pod is the prize as the peas inside should be very small when harvested. The shoots of pea plants can also be harvested and eaten fresh or cooked.

With beans, there are ‘snap beans’ or ‘string beans’ which is what we would generally think of as green or yellow beans. There are ‘shelling beans’ which are typically shelled and then eaten fresh, and there are ‘drying beans’ which are grown primarily for storage.

One of the advantages of growing your own beans and peas is there are so many unique varieties available. Check Planter to find some neat varieties to add to your garden!

How to Grow Legumes

Beans and peas are not too fussy about their growing conditions, and as they can generate their own food they should not need fertilizing unless they show signs of deficiency. Peas prefer cooler weather however; their growth slows dramatically when summer heat hits.

Depending on the type, your beans and peas may need a trellis or support system. With beans, there are pole beans and runner beans which do require a trellis, and bush beans which can grow without support. There are also half-runners which don’t absolutely need a trellis but do prefer having something to climb. Peas come in pole and bush varieties, although bush peas still do best with a bit of support.

To trellis, you can use sturdy wood or bamboo sticks arranged in triangular shapes, you can buy or assemble your own wooden or metal trellis, or you can pound u-post into the ground and use string to ‘weave’ around the plants as they grow. Secure the plants gently to the structure - avoid using wire or other tough materials that could cut the vines as they sway in the wind. Whatever method you choose, make sure the supports are sturdy and the plants are well secured to avoid them toppling over in a storm.

Refer to Planter for detailed information on growing peas and beans:

You may find you need to protect your tender peas and beans from hungry critters such as rabbits - chicken wire shaped into a fence or cage can serve this purpose. If you are struggling to direct-sow peas and beans, it is possible to give them a head start indoors and carefully transplant them outside.

Harvesting Legumes

The trick with harvesting legumes is determining when they are ready to be picked. This depends on the type of pea or bean you grow. Testing a few is the best way to check! For garden peas, the peas should be mature but still sweet. Snap peas should be harvested when the pods are tender and the peas inside are round. Snow peas are harvested when the pods are full-size but still flat. Snap beans should be harvested when the pods are full-size and the beans inside are not too mature and round. Shelling beans can be harvested when the beans inside have reached maturity but are still soft. If you are going for a drying-type pea or bean, harvest when the pods are fully dry.

Harvest the peas and beans that are at their prime regularly to keep the plants productive. Be careful not to yank or tear the plants - two hands can be helpful to hold the plant and pinch off the pea or bean pods.

Peas are best enjoyed as soon as possible after harvest (nothing quite compares to a freshly picked pea!) Beans can cause an upset stomach if eaten raw in large quantities, so they are generally cooked before eating.

Try your hand at growing peas and beans, for a garden-fresh flavor that just can’t be found in stores!

Why Mulch Your Garden?

Leaving the soil surface in your garden bare can cause several problems. Applying mulch helps protect the soil in many ways:

• It prevents the soil from eroding away from wind and water
• It ensures water will trickle into the soil rather than hitting the soil surface and washing away
• It holds in moisture and ensures the soil surface doesn’t dry up and crust over
• It helps to buffer extreme temperatures, and
• It helps to prevent (or at least, slows) weed growth

Mulches can be used to accomplish specific tasks too. For example, a black tarp can be used to cover an entire area to kill off weeds before planting. Or, a thick layer of leaf mulch can be applied prior to winter to help perennials better withstand the cold.

Mulch Options

There are many options for vegetable garden mulch materials. These can be categorized as inorganic mulches such as landscape fabric, and organic mulches such as leaves and compost.

Organic mulches gradually break down and feed the soil life below, helping to build soil health over time. Organic mulches need to be re-applied, once a year or more depending on the material, but they are well worth it for their soil-building benefits.

Mulch materials commonly used in vegetable gardening include:

Tarps and landscape fabric: some gardeners prefer to avoid using tarps and landscape fabric, to minimize their use of plastic and due to concerns about chemical leaching. They can be effective when used properly for weed suppression, and to help warm up the soil in spring. Depending on the material and how long you use it, you might need to consider how to irrigate underneath. Landscape fabric and tarps may need to be replaced every several years.

Leaves: leaves are a great resource readily available to gardeners in areas with lots of deciduous trees. Ask around in the fall, and you will likely be able to secure a season’s worth of free mulch from your neighbors! Shred dry leaves using a lawn mower so they do not blow away and apply them in a thick layer. Some gardeners compost the leaves down into ‘leaf mold’ and use that as mulch, for added soil life benefits and to keep them from blowing around.

Wood chips: wood chips make a good garden mulch that helps feed soil life, especially fungi, as they break down. Wood chip mulches used in a edible garden must be entirely natural; do not use dyed wood chip mulches or wood that has been chemically treated. Some gardeners worry that wood chips will acidify their soil or release natural chemicals that inhibit plant growth, but generally this is a non-issue. Wood chip mulches can ‘rob’ nitrogen from the soil as they break down, but this effect is usually minimal and concentrated near the soil surface. Wood chip mulch will need to be temporarily moved out of the planting area when transplanting or seeding veggies, and you can add nitrogen-rich fertilizer to help counteract any nitrogen tie-up. Once the plants are well established the mulch can be moved back.

Grass clippings: grass clippings are a great mulch material, provided they are collected from a lawn that does not use herbicides or pesticides. Allow the grass to dry out a bit before applying; if it is too wet it may start to smell as it decomposes. Apply a thick layer to avoid it blowing away in the wind.

Straw: many gardeners prefer to use straw as a mulch material. It is best to use straw instead of hay. Hay tends to have seed heads which can germinate and grow grasses in your garden, but straw should be mostly free of seed heads. As with grass clippings, when you source your straw be sure no herbicides or pesticides have been used, and apply it in a thick layer.

Compost: not only is compost an excellent soil amendment, it can also be used as a mulch. Compost can be a good mulch option if you are struggling with pests, where other types of organic mulches may create a more pest-friendly habitat. Compost breaks down relatively quickly, and will need topping-up a few times during the growing season.

However you choose to mulch, keeping the soil surface well-protected is one of the best things you can do to help your garden thrive!

Why Add Herbs to Your Garden

Herbs pack a major flavor punch in a dainty package and greatly enhance any dish you add them to. The price of fresh herbs at the grocery store can make you flinch - ‘do I really need fresh thyme in that dish?’ But if you have a flourishing herb garden, you will be looking for new and creative ways to use them rather than shying away! Herbs also contain vitamins and minerals and offer many health benefits.

Most herbs are quite easy to grow. They can thrive in nutrient-poor soil and some even prefer to dry out slightly! And herbs benefit your garden overall- they are great companion plants that can help ward off pests and attract beneficial insects and pollinators.

How to Select Herbs for your Garden

The first thing to consider when deciding which herbs to plant is what herbs do you like to eat? If you don’t regularly enjoy eating it, don’t bother growing it (unless you are experimenting with something new!)

Some herbs, such as mint, are perennials that can come back every year. Some perennial herbs may not be able to withstand winter in your area though, so be sure to confirm that the specific varieties you select are hardy in your growing zone. There are also herbs, such as dill, that are prolific self-seeders that will likely regrow each year.

Perennial and self-seeding herbs can be an asset in your garden if they are planted in a convenient location. Be warned, though, that some of these herbs can take over your garden if they are not contained. Bear this in mind when choosing which herbs to plant and where to plant them.

How to Plant and Care for Herbs

Some herbs can be easily started from seed, and some can even be propagated from cuttings. Others can be more tricky to grow from scratch, but buying herb plants from your local garden center still provides a great return on your investment.

Generally, herbs prefer a full-sun location and very well-draining soil. If you are growing in heavy clay soil it will need amending with compost and sand. Different herbs can have unique preferred growing conditions, however. Even though it looks enticing to plant a variety of herbs together, check their unique growing needs in Planter and avoid grouping herbs with very different needs in the same space.

You may opt to grow herbs in containers to have better control of the growing conditions. Planting herbs in containers also has the advantage of helping to control spread (except for rogue seeds!) If you do plant your herbs in containers, be sure they have drainage holes or use fabric pots that allow excess water to drain. You will need to water herbs in containers more often than if they were planted in the ground or in larger raised beds. Containers will also need extra care over the winter. Bring them into a garage or shed to help protect them, and bear in mind that perennial herbs will be less winter-hardy if they are grown in containers.

Regardless of whether you plant in-ground or in containers, it helps to have your herbs in a location that is handy to the kitchen. Otherwise you might not be inclined to go harvest them when you are in the middle of cooking!

When it comes to caring for herbs often less is more. Many herbs do not like to be overwatered and prefer to dry out between waterings, and as a general rule herbs need minimal fertilizing. There are always exceptions though, so be sure to check Planter for watering and fertilizing recommendations for the herbs you grow.

When your herbs are ready to harvest, don’t be afraid to give them a haircut! Herbs thrive with a regular trim; it helps them be more productive. Just don’t cut away more than one third of the plant at once. Check out the harvesting and storage tips in Planter to get the most out of your herbs:

Include your favorite herbs in your garden, and enjoy harvesting the freshest possible herbs right outside your door!

Why Add Berry Plants to Your Garden?

There are many reasons to add berry plants to your garden (not only to eat berries!)

• Berry plants are perennials- they continue growing year after year. They don’t require much upkeep compared to annual crops that need to be nurtured along every growing season.
• Garden-grown berries are more flavorful than the standard grocery store berries. Not to mention how much berries can cost at the store!
• Many berry plants are beautiful to look at and can be grown as part of an eye-catching edible landscape.
• Pollinators love the flowers too, and attracting pollinators to your garden is beneficial for all your fruiting plants.

How to Select Berry Plants

When it comes to choosing which berries to plant, there is a dizzying array of options!

Since berries are perennials, make sure the variety you chose is hardy in your growing zone. Berries also need a minimum number of “chill hours” (essentially, hours below 45°F or 7°C) to produce fruit. If you’re in a zone that has shorter winters, you may need to look into “low-chill” varieties.

With raspberries and blackberries, there are erect, semi-erect, and trailing varieties, referring to how the canes grow. Trailing varieties need to be trellised where erect varieties need minimal support, if any. There are summer-bearing and fall-bearing (also known as everbearing) varieties. Summer-bearing produce one crop of fruit in the summer, where fall-bearing can produce one or two crops from summer to early fall. With raspberries there is color to consider, primarily red, purple, and black. Red raspberries have special knack for spreading, so you may want to look into compact, container-friendly varieties. There are even “thornless” varieties for pain-free harvesting!

Strawberries varieties can also be grouped into a few types: everbearing, June-bearing, and day-neutral- again this mainly refers to when they produce fruit during the season. Everbearing and day-neutral varieties do not produce as many runners as June-bearing, which may be a benefit if you want to control how much your strawberries spread.

Blueberries need acidic soil (PH of roughly 4-5) to grow well. Sort out how you are going to acidify your soil, if needed, before purchasing your blueberry plants. Blueberry varieties are grouped into several types: lowbush (wild), northern highbush, southern highbush, and rabbiteye, which have different preferred growing climates and berry characteristics. Some blueberry varieties need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. This means they need another, different variety of blueberry (of the same type) planted nearby.

Flavor is a consideration when choosing berry varieties, but it can be hard to gauge if you’ve never tasted the berry. You can also branch out and try growing berries that might not be as familiar, such as gooseberries, currants, or elderberries (just to name a few!)

How to Plant Berries

For the most part berries need a full-sun location in the garden, and it can help to have some shelter from wind. If you are planting June-bearing strawberries or spreading raspberries, think about how you will contain the sprawl.

Berries are generally planted in spring once the ground is workable and the danger of a hard freeze has passed. It can be challenging to grow berry plants from seeds; most gardeners plant either bare root stock or potted berry plants. If planting bare root berries, soak the roots before planting- 20 minutes for strawberries, 1-2 hours for woodier berries. Dig a hole deep enough so the crown (where the roots meet the stem) is level with the soil surface, but do not bury the crown.

Apply a generous layer of mulch around the base of the plant after planting.

Caring for Berries

Once your berries are planted, the hard part is done! Check Planter for all the details you need to care for your berry plants:

Add some compost and mulch to the base of your berry plants each year. For blueberries, continue with acidifying treatments, if needed. As your plants grow, you may need to protect them from hungry birds and other critters in your area.

The only real maintenance your berries need is pruning (or for strawberries, an occasional cleanup called ‘renovating’). Pruning berry plants properly is crucial for fruit production. When to start pruning and pruning technique varies depending on the type and variety of berry, so research this carefully for the berries you grow.

Add berry plants to your garden (or landscape!) and you will be enjoying the fruits of your labor for many years to come.

When to Water Your Garden?

Deciding when to water your garden is not quite as easy as penciling it into your weekly schedule. There are many factors that affect how often your garden needs watering.

Weather has the biggest influence on how often you’ll need to water. Rain can provide much or all of the water your garden needs. Overwatering can harm or kill plants, so don’t water if your garden is already wet. During a dry spell, your garden may need to be watered more often. Wind can also dry out plants surprisingly quickly.

Soil also plays a role in how often you’ll need to water. Clay soil holds onto water longer, but can be prone to drainage issues. Sandy soil dries out more quickly and needs more frequent watering. Add plenty of compost to your garden to reach the perfect balance between water holding and drainage. Also, plants growing in containers or smaller raised beds will dry out more quickly than plants in larger beds or in the ground. In dry conditions, container plants may need water every day or even multiple times a day!

Some types of plants need more frequent watering than others. As an example, lettuce needs consistent moisture but some herbs prefer to dry out completely between waterings.

How mature your plants are is another factor to think about. Seeds, seedlings, and new transplants need consistent moisture. As the plants grow, switch to deeper watering less often to encourage them to develop strong root systems.

If you are in doubt about whether your plants need to be watered, use the ‘finger test’: stick your index finger into the soil about 2 inches (5 cm). If the soil 2 inches down does not feel moist your plants likely need water.

When you do decide to water your garden, the best time of day to water is the early morning before the sun gets too strong. Early morning watering helps ensure your plants will have enough water to face the day. Plus, the sun will dry the leaves out quickly which helps prevent disease. Watering in the evening is the second-best option, but try to avoid getting the plant leaves wet. Watering during the day is not ideal, but if your plants are withering and the soil is completely dry water them right away

How to Water a Garden and How Much?

There are some techniques to keep in mind when watering your garden. Avoid harsh streams of water that splash the soil around. Watering with too much force can displace seeds, damage tender plants, and spread disease from the soil to the leaves. Water gently close to soil level rather than from above and avoid getting the leaves wet as much as possible.

If the soil surface is dry, water might run off rather than soaking in. To fix this, moisten the soil lightly then come back a minute or two later to do a thorough watering. Use the ‘finger test’ if you’re unsure how deeply the water soaked in.

As for how much water your garden needs, 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week is a general recommendation, but Planter can tell you how much water your plants prefer:

Use a rain gauge to track rainfall amounts, and if nature doesn’t supply enough water you can supplement with watering. Use the Notes and Events premium features in Planter to keep track of when your plants received water and how much:

Keep tabs on watering your garden, and your plants will reward you come harvest time!

Pay attention to soil preparation and planting to increase the chance of unearthing beautiful, tasty root crops!

Prepare Your Soil for Root Crops

Soil conditions are especially important for proper root development in root crops. Some gardeners choose to grow root vegetables in raised beds to have better control over the soil qualities. If using a raised bed, make sure the bed is deep enough for the crops you intend to grow.

Root crops need loose, well draining soil. The roots will struggle to push downward and expand in heavy clay soils. Compost and sand can help to lighten your soil if it’s heavy. Sift the soil to remove rocks and sticks, which can cause the roots to fork and grow in unusual shapes.

Soil PH is an important factor for root development. In general root crops prefer a PH of 6.0-6.8, but you can research the optimal PH ranges for the specific crops you plan to grow. Ideally, test your soil PH prior to planting and apply treatments to raise or lower the PH if needed.

Fertilizer is another key component for growing root crops, and their needs are unique. Applying excess nitrogen when planting can cause the roots to fork, and over time the plant will focus on leaf growth instead of root growth. Root crops need sufficient phosphorus to develop healthy roots, but only add phosphorus if a soil test confirms its lacking in your soil.

How to Plant Root Crops

Root crops are cool weather crops, generally planted in spring or in late summer and early fall. It’s often recommended to seed root crops directly in the garden, rather than starting them indoors and transplanting. It can be easy to damage the root when transplanting, which is the desired part of the plant! That said, some gardeners do have success transplanting certain root crops.

Root crops can tolerate part shade, but they do best in a full-sun location. Proper plant spacing is important for root crops. Check Planter to determine the proper square-foot spacing for the crops you are planting:

Root crops do not compete well with weeds especially when they are just sprouting. Ensure the planting area is clear of weeds and keep up with weeding. The seeds need consistent moisture to germinate, which can be challenging when sowing outdoors. Water the area to be planted prior to seeding and keep it damp. You can cover the planting area to hold in moisture, but be sure to remove the cover as soon as the seeds sprout!

As the crops grow they still need consistent, adequate watering. If the soil dries out between waterings, it can cause the roots to become tough. Use the Notes and Events premium features in Planter to stay on top of watering!

Harvesting Root Crops

Knowing when to harvest root crops can be a bit of a mystery since the roots are underground. The main way to know when the crop is ready to harvest is to keep track of the days to maturity (listed on the seed packet). When enough time has passed for the plants to reach maturity, pull out a few testers to check if they are a harvestable size. With some types of root crops you can spot the top part of the root poking out of the soil, which hints at how big the root is.

If your soil is loose you can sometimes pull the roots straight out of the ground by their stems. Often they will need gentle loosening with a trowel or garden fork to be pulled out. Gentle is the operative word here as it’s easy to accidentally snap or cut the roots when harvesting them.

Include root crops in your garden this season to enjoy unearthing a hidden harvest!

What is Companion Planting?

Companion planting is the idea that some crops are complementary and some crops are combative in the garden. Complementary crops do not compete intensively for resources and do not share the same pests and diseases. Combative crops on the other hand, have similar nutrient, space, and light requirements and suffer from the same pests and diseases. Some plants are even known to give off chemicals that inhibit other plants’ growth.

Companion planting gets murky when it comes to determining which plants are complementary and which are combative. Many plant pairings are based on gardeners’ experience and observations, and will differ depending on who you ask. Adding to the complexity, pairings can vary between different varieties of the same plant. Bush beans and pole beans, for example, have different growth habits and complement different plants.

There has been some scientific research to validate which plant pairings have provable benefits, but more needs to be done. Some gardeners only rely on pairings backed by research. Others value the recommendations that come from experience. Differences aside, most gardeners would agree that growing a variety of plants in the garden can help support biodiversity and improve harvests.

What are the Benefits of Companion Planting?

Companion planting offers many potential benefits in the garden, such as:

• Attracting beneficial insects such as ladybugs
• Deterring pests by masking the scent of their preferred plants
• Providing a food source for pollinators
• Minimizing disease spread
• Keeping weed pressure down by providing ground cover
• Serving as sacrificial “trap crops” to keep pests away from your primary crops, and
• Sheltering and supporting other plants (e.g., protecting less heat-tolerant crops from direct sunlight)

How to Get Started with Companion Planting

Companion planting may seem daunting, but it doesn’t have to be. Refer to the Companion Plants and Combative Plants listed in Planter to get started:

To take companion planting a step further, think about the unique conditions in your garden- space, sunlight, pests, and diseases- when choosing companion plants. If you don’t have trouble with aphids, no need to add plants to repel aphids!

When deciding where to plant companion plants, there different options you can try:

• Plant complementary plants side-by-side. Look for the compatibility indicators in Planter to spot pairings that are complementary or combative.
• Intercrop different compatible plants in the same space. Research which crops can be grown together and use the Notes feature in Planter to track intercropped plantings.
• Use protective plant borders to mask the scent of inner plants and lure pests away.
• Add pollinator-friendly plants in locations throughout your garden.

Plan your garden with companion planting in mind, to take full advantage of beneficial plant combinations!

Why are pollinators important in the garden?

To understand why pollinators are important in the garden, we first need to understand which plants rely on them.

Self-pollinating plants, such as tomatoes and peppers, have complete flowers with both male and female parts. Pollen will fall from the male parts to the female parts with gravity and a breeze; they are not dependent on help from pollinators. Even though self-pollinating plants do not require pollinators to produce fruit, pollinators do help to ensure more complete pollination and better yields.

Wind pollinated plants, such as corn and wheat, do not need help from pollinators. Wind pollinated plants tend to be agricultural crops not as commonly grown in the home garden

Plants with incomplete flowers, such as cucumbers, squash, and melons, have separate male and female flowers. These plants depend entirely on pollinators to move the pollen from the male flowers onto the female flowers; they will not produce well if there are not sufficient pollinators around. Hand pollination is an option, and some gardeners will do this especially when saving seed, but it’s easiest to have pollinators take care of this job for you!

Some types of fruit trees and shrubs are ‘self-unfruitful’ which means they require another compatible plant of a different variety to cross-pollinate with. They cannot use their own pollen or pollen of any plant of the same variety to produce fruit and seeds. Others are ‘self-fruitful’ and can use their own pollen to produce fruit. Or, there are some that simply produce better with pollen from another variety. In all cases, pollinators play a key role in helping fruit trees and shrubs transfer pollen to produce fruit.

How to attract pollinators

Pollinators may not be there when we need them if we don’t make a safe and inviting space in the garden for them.

The first thing to consider is their habitat. Some types of bees need exposed soil to burrow in. Piles of logs, sticks, and leaves provide winter shelter, or you can buy or build “insect hotels” for this purpose. Pollinators also need a water source; ensure it is shallow with an area where they can walk up for a drink, and keep it sheltered from strong winds. Ideally avoid using pesticides, but if you are set on using them only do so when the plants are not in bloom to minimize the impact on pollinators.

Pollinators need flowers in the garden as a food source, but the types of flowers make a difference. Having a variety of native flowers with many different colors and petal shapes is very attractive to pollinators. Be aware that some ornamental flowering shrubs produce flowers that are sterile which do not provide any food for pollinators.

When planting flowers to attract pollinators, consider incorporating them directly in the veggie garden! Planting flowers amongst the vegetable plants offers many benefits. Not only can they attract pollinators, they can also attract other beneficial insects and ward off pests. Nasturtiums and borage are classic companion plants that attract pollinators, and they are also edible! Be careful not to plant invasive flowering plants such as mint in a space where you don’t want them to take over, though.

Planter has several types of flowers and flowering herbs listed and will tell you which vegetable plants pair well with them! If there is a type or variety missing, you can submit a request in Settings in Planter to have it added.

Attracting pollinators to your garden is a win-win. Help support pollinator populations and they will take care of the hard work of pollinating for you!

What is No-Till Gardening?

No-till gardening aims to disturb the soil as little as possible when building and maintaining a garden.

The main reason for wanting to minimize soil disruption is to protect the soil food web - a vast, complex ecosystem of worms, insects, bacteria, and fungi that all work together to improve the quality of the soil for plant growth. Earthworms, for example, are prolific diggers. They aerate the soil and bring nutrients from the upper soil layers down to deeper layers, making it easier for plant roots to grow and to uptake nutrients. Fungi also form part of plant root systems. They reach water and nutrients that the plant roots simply can’t, and they give these nutrients to the plant in exchange for simple sugars produced by the plant.

With organisms doing all this crucial work in the soil, it only makes sense to do everything we can to feed and nurture them rather than destroying them!

What are the Benefits of No-Till Gardening?

Doing away with tilling and digging eliminates most of the backbreaking gardening work! If that isn’t enough to convince you, there are many added perks with no-till gardening:

With proper techniques and vigilance weed and pest problems are reduced, owing to having healthy soil and resilient plants. Less watering is required and drainage is improved, as soil with plenty of organic matter is able to hold onto the optimal amount of water for plants. No-till also eliminates the need to rely on chemical fertilizers to compensate for problems that arise from overworked, lifeless soil.

In addition, no-till gardening offers several environmental benefits such as retaining carbon in the soil, protecting vital soil ecosystems, and reducing soil erosion.

What are Some No-Till Gardening Methods?

Some well-known no-till gardening methods are:

No-dig gardening: popularized by Charles Dowding in the UK, this method relies on using layers of cardboard to suppress weed growth, covered with several inches of fully broken-down compost on top.

Lasagna gardening: this method was developed by Patricia Lanza. Mentioned in an earlier post, the technique is similar to no-dig except it uses alternating layers of uncomposted nitrogen-rich and carbon-rich organic materials which will break down directly in the bed.

The no-work garden: developed by Ruth Stout, this method primarily uses hay as a mulch material that will readily break down and feed the soil.

The back-to-Eden method: founded by Paul Gautschi, this method uses wood chips as a protective mulch that also feeds the soil below.

Each of these methods have pros and cons. One of the challenges with no-till gardening can be sourcing the required materials, so cost and availability of materials in your area may be a deciding factor. Climate can be another consideration; hotter, dryer climates may benefit from the added layer of straw or wood chips, where they may harbor pests in wetter areas. Thick straw or wood chip mulches can make direct seeding tricky; the mulch needs to be pulled back so the tiny seedlings can grow through. Read up on the various methods and don’t be afraid to test them to see which works best for your garden!

Regardless of the specific techniques you decide to use, the key with no-till gardening is being kind to your soil life. Your soil and your plants will thank you!

What is Succession Planting?

Succession planting refers to planting crops so they mature at different times rather than all at once. Succession planting offers a number of benefits, including: continuous harvests rather than one big glut, maximizing the use of garden space, taking advantage of the entire growing season, and providing some insurance in case one crop planting fails. In short, planting in succession ensures that your garden is consistently producing harvests.

There are four common succession planting techniques:

Staggered planting: staggered planting is planting multiple waves of the same crop every few weeks to ensure continuous harvests of that crop.

Pull-and-replace: it’s a good practice to remove crops when they are longer producing well and replace them with a different crop. When replacing crops, rotate them so the same type of plant is not growing in the same space. Growing the same types of crops in the same space continuously can increase pest and disease pressure in that spot.

Intercropping: intercropping as it relates to succession planting refers to growing different crops that mature at different rates in the same space. The crop that comes to maturity first is harvested before the other crop grows large enough to need the extra space.

Same plant, different variety: even with the same type of plant there can be varieties that have vastly different days to maturity. If planted at the same time they will be ready for harvest at different times, ensuring an ongoing harvest of that crop.

Which Crops Can I Plant in Succession?

Which crops you can succession plant depends on the length of your growing season and on the succession planting technique you are using. Staggered planting is common with lettuce, radishes, legumes, kale, chard, beets, and carrots, to name a few.

As the weather starts to warm up, gardeners often replace spent cool season crops like cilantro and spinach with heat-loving crops such as tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers; and vice-versa as the weather starts to cool down again.

One example of an intercropping pairing is radishes and carrots. Radishes typically mature much more quickly than carrots and can be harvested before the carrots grow large enough to need the space.

Potatoes are an example of a crop that has different varieties with different days to maturity. There are early, mid, and late-season varieties of potatoes that reach maturity at different points in the season.

Planning for Succession Planting

Planning for succession planting can be as simple or as detailed as you want!

In its simplest form, remove spent crops and plant season-appropriate crops in their place. With the full features of Planter, you can create unlimited versions of your gardens to plan ahead for which plants will be removed and which will take their place. Planning ahead is especially helpful if you want to start replacement seedlings indoors.

Staggered planting is also straightforward, but requires saving space in the garden to have open spots to plant into every few weeks. Planter can help you keep track of which spaces in your garden are still available for planting.

Use the Notes and Events premium features in Planter to keep records of intercropped plantings and to track the exact days to maturity of different plant varieties.

Regardless of which techniques you use, be sure that newly planted crops have enough time left in the season to reach maturity. Also, remember to replenish your beds between plantings by adding compost and fertilizer, so they do not become depleted.

Try succession planting to reach your garden’s full harvest potential this season!

What are Cold-Hardy Crops?

There are several cold-hardy crops that will grow in cooler temperatures and can withstand a mild frost or even a freeze. These plants are typically divided into two groups - semi-hardy which can tolerate a light frost with air temperatures between 28°F and 32°F (-2°C and 0°C), and hardy which can tolerate heavy frost with air temperatures below 28°F (-2°C). Not only do these plants withstand the colder temperatures, they actually grow best in the cooler weather.

Examples of semi-hardy crops include: carrots, beets, lettuce, cilantro, and peas.

Examples of hardy crops include: kale, spinach, garlic, chives, and parsley.

Use Planter to identify cool season plants that are Tolerant or Semi-Tolerant to frost! Select a plant and refer to the Season and Frost cards under Quick Info:

Note that cold-hardy crops are not to be confused with cole crops. Cole crops are members of the brassica family specifically- and while they do love the cold - they are just one family out of many that happen to enjoy cold weather.

When to Plant

Knowing when to plant cold-hardy crops can be tricky. Obviously, the ground should be workable. Aside from this how do you know when it is safe to plant? As a first step, check the Growing Calendar in Planter, to see when the crops you are interested in planting can be sown (or transplanted) outdoors in your area.

It’s a good idea to use a soil thermometer to measure the ground temperature to ensure it is warm enough for seeds to germinate. Seeds that are planted in soil that is too cold for them to germinate will absorb water without germinating, which leaves them susceptible to rot. Research the ideal soil temperatures to germinate the crops you are planning to grow.

Even if the ground is warm enough to plant, there is no guarantee that the weather will cooperate! There may still be a risk of extreme weather that could potentially kill off even the most hardy crops. To help avoid this, mulch the plants generously to protect them from the elements. Cover plants with plastic sheets or cloches if severe cold rolls in. Also, sow regular successions (‘waves’) of crops. If some plants do perish in the harsh spring conditions, planting in succession helps ensure there will be new plants growing up not far behind.

Caring for Cold Hardy Crops

Prior to planting cool season crops, prepare the bed by working in compost and a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer. Depending on the crop, you may need to re-apply fertilizer every several weeks.

Although it may not be warm out, still be on the lookout for dry conditions. If there isn’t enough rainfall, provide sufficient water to keep the ground consistently moist

Take full advantage of the early spring growing season - don’t miss out on delicious harvests of cold-hardy crops!

All heirloom varieties are “open pollinated”. Open pollinated means they are pollinated naturally, and the resulting seeds will grow true to type. All heirlooms are open pollinated, but not all open pollinated varieties have existed long enough to be considered heirlooms.

In contrast to open pollinated varieties there are “hybrid” varieties. Hybrids are the result of highly controlled cross breeding of different plant varieties. The characteristics of hybrids are not stable; subsequent generations of seeds will not grow true to type.

Why Grow Heirloom Varieties?

Heirloom varieties are prized for their unique characteristics and flavor. With hybrids, seed growers often breed for traits such as high yields and disease resistance- not necessarily for maximum flavor.

Many gardeners grow heirlooms so they can save seeds and re-grow the same variety year after year. With each generation, heirlooms become increasingly well-adapted to the specific conditions of the garden they are grown in. Hybrid seeds on the other hand must be purchased from seed suppliers each year for consistent, vigorous results.

Many heirlooms also have interesting stories and lore behind them.

While there are many good reasons to grow heirlooms, hybrids have their merits too. The decision to grow heirlooms, hybrids, or a combination ultimately depends on what is important to you as a gardener.

Where to Get Heirloom Seeds

There are several non-profit seed exchange organizations committed to preserving heirloom seeds. Members can buy and swap seeds, often at a discount. Review shipping requirements if purchasing seeds from outside your local area.

Most major seed-supply companies offer heirloom varieties – look for ‘heirloom’ specifically noted in the variety description. There are also specialty suppliers focused on heirloom seeds.

If you plan to save heirloom seeds, be sure to read up on techniques to prevent unintended cross-pollination. If two different varieties cross-pollinate, the resulting seeds will not grow true to type. Each type of plant has a minimum “isolation distance” that must be maintained between varieties to avoid cross-pollination.

Did you know that the Planter app can help you keep track of all the different plant varieties in your garden, including heirlooms? Select from the varieties listed, or create custom varieties.

Try growing heirloom varieties in your garden to experience growing a piece of history!